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PRESENTED 
TO 

C,  I  HO  VET,  ESQR' 

BY   THE    AUTHOR. 

1840, 


GIFT  OF 
C.    H.    Hovey 


THE 

YOUNG 
GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT; 


CONTAI.VIXG   A    CATALOGUE    OF 


&>$*%#> 


^ 

PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS  UNDER  EACH  HEAD, 

FOR   THE    CULTIVATION    OF 

CULINARY    VEGETABLES    AND   FLOWERS, 

ALSO   DIRECTIONS    FOR 

CULTIVATING    FRUIT    TREES,  THE   GRAPE    VINE,  &c.; 

TO    WHICH   IS    ADDED, 


Showing  the  Work  necessary  to  be  done  in  the  various  departments 
of  Gardening  in  every  month  of  the  year. 

EIGHTH  EDITION,  IMPROVED. 


BY  T.  BRIDGEMAN, 

GARDENER,  SEEDSMAN,  AND  FLORIST,  NEW-YORK. 


'•The  end  of  all  instruction  should  be  the  attainment  of  useful  knowledge. 

NEW- YORK: 

For  rale  by  T.  Bridgeman,  corner  18lh  st.  and  Broadway,  immediately  nerth  of  Union 
Place  Park  ;  G.  C.  Thorburn,  No  11  John  street ;  Alexander  Smith,  388  Broadway, 
N.  Y.  ;  G.  R.  Garretson,  Flushing.  L  I  ;  Win.  Thorburn,  Albany;  Reynolds  and 
Bateham.  Rochester  ;  Hovey  &  Co.,  Ellis  &  Bosson,  Joseph  Breck  k  Co.,  Boston  ; 
Hirst  St  breer,  D.  Landreth  &  Co.,  Philadelphia;  J.  Cairns,  Newark.  N.  J.  ;  R. 
Sinclair,  Jr.  &  Co.,  Baltimore  ;  J.  F.  Callau,  Washington  City;  Turner  &.  Hughes, 
Raleigh,  N.  C.  ;  J.  Houghton,  Cleveland  ;  J.  C.  Porkburst,  Cincinnati  ;  T.  Pringle 
and  Co.,  New-Orleans  and  Natchez  ;  John  Tnorburn,  St.  Louis,  Missouri ;  and 
other  Seedsmen  and  Florists  in  various  parrs  of  the  United  States  \  also,  by  Book- 
sellers in  geueral. 

1840. 


t/ 


c.n 


MXlfi 


%  3 


[Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  Eighteen  Hundred 
and  Forty,  by  THOMAS  BRIDGE  MAN,  in  the  Clerk's  Office,  of  the 
District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Southern  District  of  New- 
York. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  EIGHTH  EDITION. 


THE  primary  object  in  first  publishing  The  Young 
Gardeners  Assistant,  was  to  enable  our  respectable  seeds- 
men, while  furnishing  a  catalogue  of  seeds  for  the  use  of 
the  Kitchen  and  Flower  Garden,  to  afford  instructions,  a1 
a  trifling  expense,  to  such  of  their  customers  as  may  not 
have  a  regular  gardener,  and  thereby  save  themselves  the 
blame  of  those  who  may  not  have  given  their  seeds  a  fair 
trial,  for  want  of  knowing  how  to  dispose  of  them  in  the 
ground. 

In  appearing  before  the  public  with  this  eighth  edition  of 
the  work,  the  Author  cannot  forbear  to  express  his  sense  of 
obligation  to  his  patrons  in  general,  and  to  his  fellow-seeds- 
men of  New- York  in  particular,  each  of  whom  having  by 
the  interest  they  have  taken  in  circulating  the  book,  evinced 
their  approbation  of  this  humble  attempt  to  serve  both  the 
seedsman  and  the  gardener,  in  supplying  directions  for  the 
management  of  a  garden,  in  a  manner  calculated  to  insure 
success. 

Within  the  last  ten  years,  upwards  often  thousand  copie5 
of  previous  editions  have  been  issued  from  the  seed  store  of 
Mr.  G.  C.  THORBURN,  who  has  liberally  subscribed  for  fifteen 
hundred  copies  of  this  edition.  The  Boston  and  Philadel- 
phia seedsmen  have  also  contributed  largely  to  its  circulation  ; 
and  the  Author  has  been  gratified  by  learning  that  his 
labours  are  appreciated  by  eminent  horticulturists,  as  the 
following  extracts  will  demonstrate  : — 

4t  DEAR  SIR, — You  wifl  see  by  the  next  month's  New 
Yurk  Farmer,  if  you  have  not  already  seen  by  the  Albany 
papers,  that  several  copies  of  your  Young  Gardener's 
Assistant  were  given  as  PREMIUMS  by  the  State  Agricultural 
Society.  Mr.  D.  B.  Slingerland  and  myself  were  on  the 


665574 


IV  PREFACE. 

committee  for  awarding  premiums,  and  thought  your  work 
was  deserving  encouragement,  and,  that  even  in  this  small 
way,  we  might  be  of  service  in  bringing  it  before  the  public 

as  WORTHY  OF    BEING  GIVEN  AS  PREMIUMS. 

"  Yours,  very  respectfully, 

*'  ALEXANDER  WALSH. 
"Lansingburgh,  November,  1835. 

Extract  from  a  review  of  this  work  in  the  Magazine  of 
Horticulture,  Botany,  fyc.  published  by  HoveyfyCo.  Boston: 

"  The  work  is  written  in  plain  language,  easily  to  be 
understood  by  the  young  beginner  in  gardening,  who  will 
find  it  a  great  help  ;  and  its  value,  even  to  the  partly  expe- 
rienced person,  is  by  na  means  of  an  ordinary  character. 
IT  is  ADAPTED  TO  OUR  CLIMATE,  anduiilike  compilations  from 
English  works,  the  novice  is  not  led  into  disappointment 
by  following  the  rules  there  laid  down,  as  he  generally  is, 
when  following  the  advice  of  the  latter.  We  repeat,  that 
as  far  as  the  book  pretends,  IT  is  WORTH  ALL  OTHERS  OF  A 

SIMILAR    CHARACTER    THAT    HAVE    EVER  BEEN  PUBLISHED  IN 

THIS  COUNTRY  ;  and  its  cheapness  should  place  it  in  the 
hands  of  all  new  beginners.  " 

It  appears  from  an  article  in  the  New-  York  Farmer  and 
Horticultural  Repository,  that  the  first  edition  of  the  work 
was  noticed  in  France.  The  Editor  informs  us,  in  page 
295  of  the  fourth  volume,  "  That  one  of  the  leading  articles 
in  the  second  number  of  the  present  volume  of  the  Annales 
de  L?  Institute,  Royal  Horticole  de  Fromont,  is  a  long  notice 
of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,  by  Mr.  T.  Bridgeman 
of  this  city.  The  editor,  Le  Chevalier  Soulange  Bodin, 
speaks  of  the  little  work  in  very  commendable  terms." 

Numerous  other  proofs  could  be  adduced  of  the  kind 
reception  the  work  has  met.  Suffice  it  to  state,  that  it  has 
been  extensively  noticed,  and  recommended  to  public  pa- 
tronage, by  editors  of  literary  periodicals,  and  in  many  of 
those  publications  devoted  to  agricultural  and  horticultural 
pursuits,  in  various  parts  of  this  and  other  countries. 

As  the  simplicity  of  cultivating  the  soil  may  lead  many 
to  think,  that  a  wayfaring  man  though  a  fool,  could  not. 


PREFACE.  V 

easily  err  therein,"  it  may  be  necessary  to  remind  such, 
that  the  vegetable  productions  of  the  earth,  being  natives  of 
various  soils  and  climates,  require  peculiar  management 
when  cultivated  in  climates  different  to  those  in  which 
nature  first  produced  them  ;  and,  that  although  many  species 
of  plants  in  common  use  with  us,  will  endure  the  heat  of 
our  summers,  others  can  only  be  raised  in  perfection  during 
mild  and  temperate  weather,  and  some  require  artificial 
means  to  be  used  out  of  the  ordinary  seasons  for  gardening 
operations. 

In  the  following  pages,  no  efforts  have  been  spared  to 
impart  useful  information  on  the  several  branches  of  horti- 
culture. The  directions  for  the  cultivation  of  vegetables 
are  the  result  of  twenty  years'  assiduous  practice  and 
observation  as  a  market  gardener ;  and  it  is  presumed  that 
the  Author's  experience  in  other  departments  of  gardening 
has  been  sufficient  to  warrant  him  in  this  attempt  to 
instruct  those  who  have  not  hitherto  become  acquainted 
with  the  art.  The  Author  considers  it  not  derogatory  to 
acknowledge,  that  he  has  frequently  compared  his  ideas  with 
those  of  other  Authors,  and  that  he  has  in  some  instances 
availed  himself  of  the  benefit  of  their  instructions  ;  but  he 
is  not  aware  that  in  so  doing,  he  has  adopted  any  ideas 
merely  speculative ;  to  avoid  which,  he  has  invariably 
submitted  such  manuscript  to  the  scrutiny  of  experienced 
gardeners  of  his  acquaintance,  and  the  result  has  generally 
been  such  as  to  confirm  him  in  his  original  positions. 

It  must  appear  evident  to  the  reader,  on  a  review  of  this 
work,  that  the  Author  in  adopting  the  catalogue  form,  has 
been  enabled  to  give  as  much  information  as  is  necessary  to 
the  cultivation  of  each  particular  kind  of  vegetable,  in  a 
condensed  form  ;  whereas,  had  he  pursued  the  same  course 
as  most  of  his-  predecessors  have  done,  his  book  would  have 
been  considerably  larger,  and  the  reader  must  have  been  at 
the  trouble  of  perusing  the  greater  part  of  it,  at  least  twelve 
times  in  the  course  of  a  year.  The  Author,  however,  being 
aware  of  the  convenience  of  a  calendar,  has  in  this  edition 
annexed  one,  which  he  presumes  is  well  calculated  not  only 

1* 


VI  PREFACE. 

to  assist  the  memory  of  the  gardener,  but  to  show  him,  at 
one  glance,  the  work  necessary  to  be  done  in  the  various 
departments  of  gardening  in  every  month  of  the  year. 

The  Author  having  shown  his  primary  object  in  adopting 
the  catalogue  form,  presumes  that  his  readers  will  not  be 
disappointed,  if  they  do  not  find  there  the  names  of  all  the 
species  or  varieties  of  plants  they  may  wish  to  introduce 
into  their  gardens,  the  mode  of  culture  of  such  being  gene- 
rally  alike.  If  a  catalogue  of  this  kind  was  essential, 
it  would  occupy  more  space  than  is  allotted  for  this  book  ; 
besides  it  would  be  impossible  to  keep  pace  with  our 
enterprising  horticulturists  and  florists,  who  are  continually 
introducing  new  species  into  our  country.  When,  also,  it 
is  considered  that  there  are  a  number  of  indigenous  plants 
at  present  unknown  to  us,  it  will  appear  evident  that  the 
most  extensive  catalogue  would  not  be  perfect  in  this  respect 
for  any  length  of  time;  the  Author,  therefore,,  thought  it 
unnecessary  to  attempt  any  thing  more  than  that  which  Is 
e.ssential  to  the  attainment  of  a  tolerable  share  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  garden,  by  ordinary  exertion.  How  far  he  has 
succeeded  in  this  respect,  must  be  left  for,  the  reader  to 
decide. 

THOMAS  BRIDGEMAN. 

New  York,  January ',   1840. 


%*  Tjie  reader's  attention  is  solicited  to  the  elucidation 
immediately  preceding  the  article  Artichoke,  relative  to  the 
varied  climates  to.  which,  our  directions  are  calculated  to 
apply. 

This  exposition  particularly  concerns  such  gardeners  as 
cultivate  land  in  a  temperature  different  to,  that  in,  the 
vicinity  of  New- York  City, 


GENERAL    REMARKS 

ON    THE 

MANAGEMENT  OF  A 


BEFORE  I  commence  the  Catalogue,  it  may  be  necessary 
for  me  to  direct  the  reader's  attention  to  some  important 
matters,  essential  to  the  good  management  of  a  Kitchen 
garden. 

The  mode  of  laying  out  the  ground  is  a  matter  of  taste, 
and  may  be  left  to  the  gardener  himself;  the  form  being  a 
thing  of  trifling  importance  in  the  production  of  useful  vege- 
tables, or  whether  the  ground  be  laid  out  in  beds  of  four  or 
ten  feet  wide,  provided  it  be  well  worked %  and  the  garden 
kept  neat  and  free  from  weeds. 

Those  who  have  not  a  garden  already  formed,  should, 
however,  fix  on  a  level  spot  where  the  soil  is  deep ;  but  as  we 
have  not  always  a  choice,  I  would  recommend  the  reader  to 
that  which  is  within  the  reach,  and  ought  to  be  the  object  of 
every  man,  namely,  to  make  the  most  of  what  he  has. 

To  this  end,  he  may  form,  a  border  round  the  whole  garden, 
from  five  to  ten  feet  wide,  according  to  the  size  of  the  piece 
of  land ;  next  to  this  border,  a  walk  may  be  made  from  three 
to  six  feet  wide  ;  the  centre  part  of  the  garden  may  be  divi- 
ded into  squares,  on  the  sides  of  which  a  border  may  be  laid 
out  three  or  four  feet  wide,  in  which  the  various  kinds  of 
herbs  may  be  raised,  and  also  Gooseberries,  Currants,  Rasp- 
berries, Strawberries,  &,c.  The  centre  beds  may  be  planted 
with  all  the  various  kinds  of  vegetables.  The  outside  bor- 
ders facing  the  East,  South  and  West,  will  be  useful  for 
raising  the  earliest  fruits  and  vegetables ;  and  the  North 
border,  being  shady  and  cool,  will  serve  for  raising,  and 
pricking  out  such  young  plants,  herbs  and  cuttings,  as  require 
screened  from  the  intense  heat  of  the,  suiu 


GENERAL  REMARKS.  $ 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  further,  that  though  shady 
situations  are  useful  for  the  purpose  of  raising  Celery,  Cab- 
bage  and  other  small   plants,   slips,    &c.   in  the    summer 
»••»  £Qason,»J;haj;  ;all  standard  trees  should  be  excluded  from  a. 
*  'Ritchen^Xjartieivfor^  the   following   reasons : — First,  their 
.%  2  5  2J>et.§  .^fiffc&d  so  jtoidely,  and  imbibe  so  much  moisture  from 
l*tfie  grcrund,*thUt'littlelis  left  for  the  nourishment  of  any  plant 
within  the  range  of  their  influence  ; — Secondly,  when  in  full 
leaf,they  shade  a  large  space,  and  obstruct  the  free  circulation 
of  the  air,  so  essential    to  the  well-being  of  all  plants  ; — 
Thirdly,  the  droppings  from  trees  are  particularly  injurious 
to  whatever  vegetation  they  fall  upon. 

Previous  to  entering  on  the  work  of  a  garden,  the 
gardener  should  lay  down  rules  for  his  future  government. 
In  order  to  this,  he  should  provide  himself  with  a  blank  book. 
In  this  he  should  first  lay  out  a  plan  of  his  garden,  allotting 
a  place  for  all  the  different  kinds  of  vegetables  he  intends 
to  cultivate.  As  he  proceeds  in  the  business  of  planting  his 
grounds,  if  he  were  to  keep  an  account  of  every  thing  he 
does  relative  to  his  garden,  he  would  soon  obtain  some 
knowledge  of  the  art.  This  the  writer  has  done  for  the  last 
twenty  years,  and  he  flatters  himself  that  a  publication  of 
the  results  of  his  practice  will  be  interesting  and  useful  to 
his  readers. 

If  gardeners  were  to  make  it  a  rule  to  record  the  dates 
and  particulars  of  their  transactions  relative  to  tillage, 
planting,  &c.,  they  would  always  know  when  to  expect 
their  seeds  to  come  up,  and  how  to  regulate  their  crops  for 
succession  ;  and,  when  it  is  considered  that  plants  of  the 
Brassica,  or  cabbage  tribe,  are  apt  to  get  infected  at  the 
roots,  if  too  frequently  planted  in  the  same  ground,  and 
that  a  rotation  of  crops  in  general  is  beneficial,  it  will  appear 
evident  that  a  complete  register  of  every  thing  relative  to 
culture  is  essential  to  the  well-being  of  a  garden. 

One  important  point  to  be  attended  to,  is  to  have  a  supply 
of  good  old  manure,  and  other  composts,  ready  to  incorporate 
with  the  earth  ;  also  a  portion  of  ashes,  soot,  tobacco  dust, 
and  lime,  for  the  purpose  of  sowing  over  seed  beds  in  dry 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  9" 

weather ;  this  will  tend  in  a  great  measure  to  destroy  insects, 
Which  sometimes  cut  off  the  young  plants  as  fast  as  they 
come  up. 

If  the  ground  cannot  be  all  manured  every  year  as  it 
should  be,  it  is  of  primary  importance  that  those  vegetables 
be  provided  for  which  most  need  manure.  A  perusal  of  the 
catalogue  will  enable  the  young  gardener  to  judge  of  the 
kinds  of  garden  products  which  require  most.  Lest  I  should 
not  have  been  explicit  enough  in  this  particular,  I  would 
inform  him  that  good  rich  manure  is  indispensably  neces- 
sary for  the  production  of  Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cabbage, 
Lettuce,  Spinage,  Onions,  Radishes,  and  Salads  in  general". 

In  the  event  of  a  scanty  supply  of  manure,  those  kinds  of 
vegetables  which  are  raised  in  hills  or  drills,  may  be  provided 
for  by  disposing  of  the  manure  immediately  under  the  seeds 
or  plants. 

The  next  important  matter  is  to  have  the  ground  in  suit- 
able  condition  to  receive  the  seed ;  I  wish  it  to  be  under- 
stood that  I  am  an  advocate  for  early  sowing- and  planting, 
even  at  the  risk  of  losing  a  litlle  seed,  provided  the  ground" 
be  fit  to  receive  it.  A  light  sandy  soil  will  be  benefitted  if 
worked  when  moist,  as  such  treatment  will  have  a  tendency 
to  make  it  more  compact ;  on  the  contrary,  if  a  clay  soil  be 
worked  when  too  wet,  it  kneads  like  dough,  and  never  fails 
to  bind  when  drought  follows;  and  this  not  only  prevents 
the  seed  from  rising,  but  injures  the  plants  materially  in 
their  subsequent  growth,  by  its  becoming  impervious  to  the 
moderate  rains,  dews,  air,  and  influence  of  the  sun,  all  of 
which  are  necessary  to  the  promotion  of  vegetation. 

Some  gardeners,  as  well  as  some  writers,  recommend  cer- 
tain fixed  days  for  sowing  and  planting  particular  kinds  of 
seed  ;  I  think  it  necessary  to  guard  my  readers  from  being' 
misled.  The  failure  of  crops  may  be  often  attributed  to  the 
observance  of  certain  days  for  sowing.  If  some  kinds  of 
seed  be  sown  when  the  ground  is  wet  and  cold,  they  will 
become  chilled  in  the  ground,  and  seldom  vegetate.  If  they 
be  sown  in  very  dry  weather,  the  germinative  parts  of  the 
seed  may  become  injured  by  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  or 


10  GENERAL  REMARKS. 

the  young  plants  may  get  devoured  by  insects  as  fast  as 
they  corne  up.  To  obviate  these  difficulties,  I  have  generally 
allowed  a  week  or  ten  days  for  the  sowing  of  seed, 
intending  the  medium  as  the  proper  time  for  the  vicinity  of 
New-York.  With  this  clearly  borne  in  mind,  the  reader 
who  observes  the  difference  in  the  degrees  of  heat  and  cold 
in  the  different  parts  ©f  the  country,  will  know  how  to  apply 
these  instructions  accordingly. 

Much  depends  on  the  manures  used  on  particular  kinds  of 
soil.  The  great  art  of  improving  sandy  and  clayey  soils,  is 
to  give  the  former  such  dressings  of  clay,  cow  dung,  and 
other  kinds  of  manure,  as  will  have  a  tendency  to  bind  and 
make  them  more  compact,  and  consequently  more  retentive 
of  moisture  ;  and  to  the  latter,  coats  of  horse  dung,  ashes, 
sand,  and  such  other  composts  as  may  tend  to  separate  the 
particles  and  open  the  pores  of  the  clay,  so  as  to  cause  it  to 
approach  as  nearly  as  possible  to  a  loam. 

The  nearer  the  ground  approaches  to  a  sandy  soil,  the  less 
retentive  will  it  be  of  moisture ;  the  more  to  a  clayey,  the 
longer  will  it  retain  it ;  and  the  finer  the  particles  of  which 
the  clay  is  composed,  the  more  tenacious  will  it  be  of  water, 
and  consequently  be  longer  in  drying,  and  the  harder  when 
dry ;  but  earth  of  a  consistence  that  will  hold  water  the  long- 
est, without  becoming  hard  when  dry,  is  of  all  others,  the 
best  adapted  for  raising  the  generality  of  plants  in  the 
greatest  perfection.  This  last  described  soil  is  called  loam, 
and  is  a  medium  earth,  between  the  extremes  of  clay  and 
sand. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  drills  to  be  made  at 
certain  depths  for  the  different  kinds  of  seed ;  and  when  I 
have  stated  that  the  drills  should  be  two  inches  deep,  it  is 
intended  that  the  seed  should  be  covered  only  one  inch, 
which  it  will  be  when  planted  in  these  drills,  and  covered, 
and  so  in  proportion  for  any  other  depth  required.  This 
may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  young  gardener,  but  circum- 
stances alter  cases  ;  if,  for  instance,  some  particular  crops 
should  fail,  this  would  render  it  necessary,  if  the  season  be 
far  advanced,  to  risk  a  further  planting  of  seed,  even  if  the 


GENERAL  REMARKS.  11 

Weather  be  hot  and  the  ground  dry ;  if  this  be»planted  a 
little  deeper,  it  may  escape  the  violent  heat  of  the  sun,  and 
in  the  event  of  a  shower,  the  ground  would  become  suffici- 
ently moist  to  bring  it  up ;  whereas  it  sometimes  happens 
that^seed  sown  after  a  shower  does  not  vegetate  until  after  the 
season  is  too  far  advanced  to  bring  the  crop  to  perfection. 

The  work  of  drilling  by  those  who  have  no  machine,  may 
be  performed  in  various  ways ;  in  some  cases  a  plough  is 
used,  in  others  a  small  hoe,  or  a  dibble  drawn  along  the  edge 
of  a  board  or  line  ;  it  is  of  little  consequence  which  way  the 
work  is  done,  if  it  be  well  done.  While  I  leave  the  gardener 
to  make  his  own  choice  of  tools,  I  would  suggest  that  he  be 
provided  with  two  or  three  drilling  machines ;  these,  every 
handy  man  may  make  for  himself;  they  should  be  in  the 
form  of  a  garden  rake,  with  a  stout  heavy  back,  and  five 
teeth,  two  inches  broad,  and  tapered  so  as  to  enter  the  ground, 
and  leave  drills  two  inches  deep.  If  one  be  made  with  the 
teeth  eight  inches  apart,  another  twelve,  and  another  fourteen, 
they  will  be  useful  in  making  drills  for  various  seeds;  and 
drills  thus  made  serve  instead  of  straining  a  line  when  trans- 
planting Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Leek  plants,  &c.  the  line  being 
stretched  at  one  edge  of  the  bed,  and  the  drilling  machine 
drawn  straight  by  the  line,  makes  five  drills  at  once.  If  they 
are  straight,  they  may  be  kept  so,  by  keeping  one  drill  open 
for  the  outside  tooth  to  work  in,  until  the  ground  be  all  drilled. 

Gardeners  practice  different  methods  of  covering  up  seed, 
some  do  it  with  a  hoe,  others  with  a  rake  or  harrow  ;  some 
draw  a  portion  of  the  earth  to  the  side  of  the  bed;  and  after 
sowing  the  seed,  return  it  regularly  over  the  bed ;  in  some 
particular  cases  a  sieve  is  used,  in  others  a  roller.  Rolling 
or  treading  in  seed,  is  necessary  in  dry  seasons,  but  it  should 
never  be  done  when  the  ground  is  wet. 

There  is  nothing  that  protects  young  crops  of  Turnips, 
Cabbi^e,  and  other  small  plants,  from  the  depredations  o* 
the  fly,  so  well  as  rolling;  for  when  the  surface  is  rendered 
completely  smooth,  these  insects  are  deprived  of  the  harbour 
they  would  otherwise  have  under  the  clods  and  small  lumps 
of  earth.  This  method  will  be  found  more  effectual  than 


12  GENERAL    REMABKS. 

soaking  the  seed  in  any  preparation,  or  dusting  the  plants 
with  any  composition  whatever ;  but  as  the  roller  must  only 
be  used  previous  to,  or  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  and  not 
even  then  if  the  ground  be  wet,  it  is  necessary  that  the 
gardener  should  have  a  hogshead  always  at  hand  in  dry 
weather,  containing  infusions  made  of  waste  tobacco,  lime, 
soot,  cow  dung,  elder,  burdock  leaves,  &c.  A  portion  of 
these  ingredients,  or  any  other  preparation  that  is  pernicious 
or  poisonous  to  insects,  without  injuring  the  plants,  thrown 
into  a  hogshead  kept  filled  up  with  water,  if  used  moderately 
over  beds  of  young  plants  in  dry  weather,  would,  in  almost 
every  case,  insure  a  successful  crop. 

Saltpetre  is  pernicious  to  many  species  of  insects ;  it  is 
also  an  excellent  manure,  and  may  be  used  to  great  advan- 
tage when  dissolved  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  four 
.gallons  of  water.  This  liquid  applied  to  plants  through  the 
rose  of  a  watering  pot,  will  preserve  health  and  vigour.  Soap 
suds  are  equally  beneficial,  if  used  occasionally  in  the  same 
manner — say  once  a  week.  These  remedies  applied  alter- 
nately, have  been  known  to  restore  Melon  and  Cucumber 
vines  from  the  ravages  of  the  yellow  fly,  bugs,  blight,  &c., 
arid  to  keep  plants  in  a  thriving  condition. 

As  liquid,  however,  cannot  be  conveniently  used  on  a 
large  piece  of  land,  it  may  be  necessary,  if  insects  are  nume- 
rous, to  sow  tobacco  dust  mixed  with  road  dust,  soot,  ashes, 
lime,  or  the  dust  of  charcoal,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a 
bushel  per  acre,  every  morning,  until  the  plants  are  free  or 
secure  from  their  attacks.  Turnip  seed  will  sometimes 
sprout  in  forty-eight  hours.  Cabbage  seed  ought  to  come  up 
within  a  week  after  it  is  sown;  but  it  sometimes  happens 
that  the  whole  is  destroyed  before  a  plant  is  seen  above 
ground  ;  the  seedsman,  in  this  case,  is  often  blamed  without 
a  cause. 

A  correspondent  has  communicated  the  result  of  an  ex- 
periment he  has  tried  for  preventing  the  attacks  of  flies  or 
fleas,  on  turnips.  He  says,  "  steep  your  seed  in  a  pint  of 
warm  water  for  two  hours,  in  which  is  infused  one  ounce  of 
saltpetre ;  then  dry  the  seed,  and  add  currier's  oil  sufficient 


GENERAL    REMARKS*  13 

to  wet  the  whole  ;  after  which  mix  it  with  plaster  of  Paris, 
so  as  to  separate  and  render  it  fit  for  sowing."  Fish  oil  is 
known  to  be  destructive  to  ants  and  various  other  small 
insects,  but  it  is  difficult  to  apply  to  plants. 

In  the  summer  season,  Broccoli,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower, 
&c.  are  particularly  subject  to  the  ravages  of  grubs  and 
caterpillars ;  to  prevent  this  wholly,  is  perhaps  impossible, 
but  it  is  not  difficult  to  check  these  troublesome  visitors; 
this  may  be  done,  by  searching  for  them  on  their  first 
appearance,  and  destroying  them.  Early  in  the  morningj 
grubs  may  be  collected  from  the  earth,  within  two  or  three 
inches  of  such  plants  they  may  have  attacked  the  night 
previous. 

The  approach  of  caterpillars  is  discoverable  on  the  leaves 
of  Cabbages,  many  of  which  are  reduced  to  a  thin  white  skin, 
by  the  minute  insects  which  emerge  from  the  eggs  placed 
on  them;  these  leaves  being  gathered  and  thrown  into  the 
dre,  a  whole  host  of  enemies  may  be  destroyed  at  once ; 
whereas,  if  they  are  suffered  to  remain,  they  will  increase  so 
rapidly,  that  in  a  few  days  the  plantation,  however  extensive, 
waay  become  infested ;  now,  when  once  these  arrive  at  the 
butterfly  or  moth  stage  of  existence,  they  become  capable  of 
perpetuating  their  destructive  race  to  an  almost  unlimited 
extent.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  all  other  insects  in  a 
torpid  state. 

Worms,  maggots,  snails,  or  slugs,  may  be  driven  away, 
by  sowing  salt  or  lime  in  the  spring,  in  the  proportion  of  two 
to  three  bushels  per  acre,  or  by  watering  the  soil  occasionally 
with  salt  and  water,  to  the  quantity  of  about  two  pounds  of 
salt  to  fourgallons  of  water ;  or  the  slug  kind,  may  be  easily 
entrapped  on  small  beds  of  plants,  by  strewing  slices  of 
turnip  on  them  late  in  the  evening  ;  the  slugs  or  snails  will 
readily  croud  on  them,  and  may  be  gathered  up  early  in  the 
morning  (before  sunrise)  and  destroyed. 

Moles  may  be  annoyed  and  driven  away,  by  obstructing 
the  passage  in  their  burrows  with  sticks  smeared  with  tar. 
First  insert  a  clean  stick  from  the  surface  through  the  bur- 
rows as  a  borer;  then  dip  others  in  tar,  and  pass  them 
through  into  the  floor  of  the  burrows,  being  careful  not  to 

2 


14  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

wipe  off  the  tar  in  the  operation.  Tar  is  also  an  effectual 
remedy  against  smut  in  wheat — After  being  heated  in  a 
kettle  until  it  becomes  thin,  it  may  be  stirred  in  amongst  the 
grain  until  it  becomes  saturated.  The  wheat  should  after- 
wards be  mixed  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wood  ashes  to 
dry  and  render  it  fit  for  sowing. 

To  prevent  depredations  from  crows,  steep  corn  in  strong 
saltpetre  brine,  sow  it  over  the  land,  or  steep  your  seed  corn, 
and  if  the  crows  once  get  a  taste,  they  will  forsake  the  field. 

Perhaps  the  next  important  point  to  be  attended  to,  is  the 
most  proper  rotation  of  crops.  Virgil,  who  was  a  philoso- 
pher as  well  as  a  poet,  very  justly  observes,  that  "  THE  TRUE 

REPOSE  OF  THE  EARTH  IS  A   CHANGE  OF  ITS  PRODUCTIONS." 

It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  a  plant  may  be  killed  by  the 
poison  which  it  has  itself  secreted,  as  a  viper  may  be  stung 
to  death  by  its  own  venom.  Hence  it  has  been  very  gene- 
rally noticed,  that  the  soil  in  which  some  particular  vegeta- 
bles have  grown,  and  into  which  they  have  discharged  the 
excretions  of  their  roots,  is  rendered  noxious  to  the  pros- 
perity of  plants  of  the  same  or  allied  species,  though  it  be 
quite  adapted  to  the  growth  and  support  of  other  distinct 
species  of  vegetables. 

It  is  proved  by  experience,  that  fall  Spinach  is  an  excel- 
lent preparative  for  Beets,  Carrots,  Radishes,  Salsify,  and 
all  other  tap,  as  well  as  tuberous-rooted  vegetables. 

Celery,  or  Potatoes,  constitute  a  suitable  preparative  for 
Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  and  all  other  plants  of  the  Brassica 
tribe ;  also  Artichokes,  Asparagus,  Lettuce  and  Onions, 
provided  that  such  ground  be  well  situated,  which  is  a  cir- 
cumstance always  to  be  duly  considered  in  laying  out  a 
garden. 

Lands  that  have  long  lain  in  pasture  are  for  the  first 
three  or  four  years  after  being  tilled,  superior  for  Cabbage, 
Turnips,  Potatoes,  &c.  and  afterwards  for  culinary  vege- 
tables in  general. 

The  following  rules  are  subjoined  for  further  government : 

Fibrous-rooted  plants  may  be  alternated  with  tap^  of 
tuberous-rooted,  arid  vice  versa. 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  15 

Plants  which  produce  luxuriant  tops,  so  as  to. shade  the 
land,  to  be  succeeded  by  such  as  yield  small  teps,  or  narrow 
leaves. 

Plants  which  during  their  growth  require  the  operation 
of  stirring  the  earth,  to  precede  such  as  do  not  admit  of 
such  culture. 

Ground  which  has  been  occupied  by  Artichokes,  Aspara- 
gus, Rhubarb,  Sea  Kale,  or  such  other  crops  as  remain 
long  on  a  given  spot,  should  be  subjected  to  a  regular  rota- 
tion of  crops,  for  at  least  as  long  a  period  as  it  remained 
under  such  permanent  crops.  Hence  in  all  gardens  ju- 
diciously managed,  the  Strawberry  bed  is  changed  every 
three  or  four  years,  till  it  has  gone  the  circuit  of  all  the 
compartments ;  and  Asparagus  beds,  &c.  should  be  re- 
newed on  the  same  principle,  as  often  as  they  fail  to  produce 
luxuriantly.  Indeed,  no  two  crops  should  be  allowed  to 
ripen  their  seeds  in  succession  in  the  same  soil,  if  it  can  be 
avoided  ;  because,,  if  it  be  not  exhausted  by  such  crops, 
weeds  will  accumulate  more  than  on  beds  frequently 
cultivated. 

Manure  should  be  applied  to  the  most  profitable  and 
exhausting  crops  ;  and  the  succession  of  crops  should  be 
so  arranged,  that  the  ground  be  kept  occupied  by  plants 
either  valuable  in  themselves,  or  which  may  contribute  to 
the  increased  value  of  those  which  are  to  follow;  and  the 
value  of  the  labour  required  to  mature  vegetables,  and  pre- 
pare them  for  market,  should  be  always  taken  into  conr 
sideration. 

Many  kinds  of  seed,  such  as  Asparagus,  Capsicum, 
Celery,  Fetticus,  Leek,  Lettuce,  Onion,  Parsnip,  Parsley, 
Rhubarb,  Salsify,  Spinage,  &c.  will  not  vegetate  freely  in 
dry  weather,  unless  the  ground  be  watered  or  rolled; 
where  there  is  no  roller  on  the  premises,  the  following  may 
answer  for  small  beds  as  a  substitute  :  after  the  seed  is  sown 
and  the  ground  well  raked,  take  a  board  (or  boards)  the 
whole  length  of  the  bed,  lay  them  flat  on  the  ground,  begin- 
ning  at  one  edge  of  the  bed,  walk  the  whole  length  of  the, 
ted,  this  will  press  the  soil  on  the  seed,  then  shift  the  boaads 


16  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

till  you  have  thus  gone  over  the  whole  bed.  In  the  absence 
of  boards^  tread  in  the  seed  with  your  feet,  or  strike  an  the 
beds  with  the  back  of  your  spade  or  shovel. 

If  it  be  necessary  at  any  time  to  sow  seed  in  dry  weather,, 
it  is  recommended  to  soak  the  seed  in  \vater,  and  to  dry 
it  with  sulphur.  This  practice,  with  attentive  watering,  will 
cause  the  seed  to  vegetate  speedily. 

If  it  should  be  requisite  to  transplant  any  thing  when  the 
ground  is  dry,  the  transplanting  should  be  always  done  as 
soon  as  the  earth  is  fresh  turned  over,  and  the  roots  of  the 
plants  should  be  steeped  in  mud  made  of  rich  compost, 
before  they  are  set  out. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  seed  to  be  sown  in 
drills  drawn  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  apart,  in  preference 
to  sowing  broad  cast,  because  the  weeds  can  be  more  easily 
destroyed  by  means  of  a  small  hoe;  and  which,  properly 
used,  greatly  promotes  the  growth  of  young  plants. 


The  following  table  may  be  useful  to  the  gardener,  m 
showing  the  number  of  plants,  or  trees,  that  may  be  raise^ 
on  an  acre  of  ground,  when  planted  at  any  of  the  under- 
mentioned distances. 

Distance  apart               No.  of  Plants  Distance  apart  No.  ofPlanta- 

1  foot     ....  43,560  9  feet 537 

1£  feet     ....  19,360  12  feet 362 

2  feet      ,-   f ;   *    .  10,890  15  feet 193 

2J  feet      ....  6,969  18  feet 134 

3  feet      .     .    v:   .  4.840  21  feet 98 

4  feet 2,722  24  feet 75 

5  feet.    ....  1,742  27  feet 59 

6  feet 1,210  30  feet  .....  4S 

The  preceding  table  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  such  as  are 
not  expert  in  arithmetic,  in  laying  out  a  garden*  as  it  shows 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  17 

at  one  view  many  proportions  of  an  acre  of  land,  in  squares 
of  different  dimensions.  The  last  line,  for  instance,  shows 
that  if  forty-eight  trees  be  planted  on  an  acre,  each  thirty 
feet  apart,  that  there  may  be  forty-eight  beds  of  thirty  feet 
square,  or  thirty  beds  of  forty-eight  feet  square,  formed  from 
the  same  quantity  of  land.  An  allowance  of  about  ope- 
eighth  must,  however,  be  made  from  the  above  calculation 
for  walks  and  paths. 

The  table  may  also  serve  to  show  the  gardener  how  to 
dispose  of  any  given  quantity  of  manure,  that  may  be  allotr 
ted  for  an  acre  of  ground.  If,  for  instance,  it  requires  three 
hundred  and  two  trees  to  plant  an  acre  when  placed  twelve 
feet  from  each  other,  it  will  require  as  many  heaps  of  manure 
to  cover  the  same  quantity  of  ground,  if  dropped  the  same 
distance  apart.  It  therefore  follows,  that  if  one  hundred  loads 
be  allowed  to  the  acre,  each  load  must  be  divided  into  three 
heaps.  If  seventy-five  loads  only  be  allowed,  every  load 
must  be  divided  into  four  heaps,  and  so  on  in  proportion  to 
the  quantity  allowed.  But  if  the  gardener  should  choose  to 
drop  his  heaps  five  paces  or  fifteen  feet  apart,  he  may 
make  such  distribution  of  his  loads  as  to  have  one  hundred 
and  ninety-three  heaps  on  the  acre  of  land  ;  in  which  case, 
by  dividing  each  load  into  four  heaps,  he  will  require  only 
forty-eight  loads  to  cover  the  acre,  and  he  may  decrease  the 
quantity  still  more,  by  allowing  greater  distances  from  heap 
to  heap,  or  by  dividing  his  loads  into  smaller  proportions, 
so  as  to  accommodate  himself  to  whatever  quantity  of  ma- 
nure he  may  allot  to  any  given  quantity  of  ground. 

As  it  may  not  be  generally  known  that  some  species  of 
seeds  are  apt  to  lose  their  vegetative  qualities  much  sooner 
than  others,  the  following  hints  are  subjoined  as  some  rule 
for  the  gardener's  government,  provided  the  seeds  are  care- 
fully preserved,  and  not  exposed  to  excess  of  heat,  air,  or 
dampness : — 

Parsnip,  Rhubarb,  and  other  light  scalerlike  seeds,  cannot 
be  safely  trusted  after  they  are  a  year  old. 

Beans  and  Peas  of  different  species,  Capsicum,  Carrot, 

2* 


18  GENERAL  KEMABKS. 

Cress,  Leek,  Nasturtium,  Okra,  Onion,  Salsify,  Scorzonens, 
and  small  Herb  seeds  in  general,  may  be  kept  two  years. 

Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Egg-plant,  Endive,  Fetticus,  Let- 
tuce, Mustard,  Parsley,  Skirret  and  Spinach  seed,  may  with 
care  be  preserved  three  years. 

Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cabbage,  Celery,  Kale,  Radish, 
and  Turnip  seed,  will  keep  four  years,  if  properly  attended  to. 

Beet,  Cucumber,  Gourd,  Melon,  Pumpkin  and  Squash, 
also  Burnet,  Chervil,  and  Sorrel  Seed,  have  been  known  to 
grow  freely  when  five  and  even  seven  years  old  j  but  it  is 
not  prudent  to  venture  seed  in  the  garden,  of  the  soundness 
of  which  we  are  not  certain. 

In  order  to  put  such  on  their  guard  as  may  attempt  to 
raise  seed  either  for  their  own  use  or  for  the  market,  I 
would  observe  that  great  care  is  necessary,  as  it  is  an  indu- 
bitable fact,  that  if  seed  of  similar  species  be  raised  near 
each  other,  degeneracy  will  be  the  consequence,'  it  is, 
therefore,  difficult  for  any  one  man  to  raise  all  sorts  of  seed, 
good  and  true  to  their  kind,  in  any  one  garden. 

If  roots  of  any  kind  become  defective,  they  are  unfit  for 
seed,  as  the  annexed  fact  will  show.  I  once  planted  for  seed 
some  beautiful  orange-coloured  roots  of  Carrots,  but  as  they 
had  been  previously  grown  with  some  of  a  lemon-colour, 
they  produced  seed  of  a  mixed  and  spurious  breed,  and  as 
this  is  not  a  solitary  instance  of  degeneracy  from  the  like 
cause,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion,  that  as  in  the  animal 
frame,  so  it  is  in  the  vegetable  system — disorders  rery 
frequently  lay  dormant  from  one  generation  to  another,  and 
at  length  break  out  with  all  their  vigour ;  I  would  therefore 
advise  seed  growers  not  to  attempt  to  "  bring  a  clean  thing 
out  of  an  unclean,"  but  if  they  find  a  mixture  of  varieties 
amongst  their  seed  roots,  to  reject  the  whole,  or  they  wilJ 
infallibly  have  spurious  s^ed 

(t/5*  In  order  to  aid  th«-  novice  in  gardening,  the  following 
brief  classification  of  such  .>peci-  s  and  varieties  as  comprise 
our  catalogue  of  vegetable  ;«t(  ds  is  subn  itted,  and  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  the  connecting  links,  and  explication  of  this 
table  will  not  be  altogether  uninteresting  10  the  experienced 
gardener  and  xced^iun  u 


CATALOGUE. 

Half  Hnrfly. 

Tender. 

Quick 
in  germinating. 

Mr  din  111 

in  germinating. 

Tnray 
in  germinating. 

Cnpnble  of  being 
transplanted. 

Artichoke,                .         . 

0 

. 

. 

0 

0 

Asparagus,                .        0 

'  '  , 

. 

. 

0 

0 

Beans,  (Eng.  dwarfs)        0 

"  '. 

. 

. 

0 

0 

Beans,  (Kidney  do.) 

. 

0 

0 

. 

. 

Beans,  pole, 

• 

0 

0 

. 

A 

Beet,                .         .     •    . 

0 

''.  • 

•    ". 

0      ""[ 

*•?  •- 

Borecole  or  Kale,  &c., 

0 

.. 

0 

•  -*^'":' 

0 

Broccoli,                 *%  . 

0 

'•"  ', 

0 

. 

0 

Cauliflower, 

0 

. 

0 

. 

0 

Cabbage,                   , 

to 

. 

0 

.           . 

0 

Carrot, 

0 

, 

. 

0 

.     . 

Celery, 

0 

• 

V  • 

0 

0 

Corn  Salad,              f      0 

. 

\  '. 

•  , 

.        0 

.   ,. 

Cress,              .         . 

0 

• 

0 

•           •  -  , 

,, 

Cucumber,               •        .' 

. 

0 

0 

'  •»         .  • 

. 

Egg  Plant,      .       v. 

. 

0 

. 

0 

0 

Endive,                    * 

0 

0 

. 

0 

Indian  Corn,           .        *.   ' 

. 

0 

0 

m  "         . 

,± 

Leek,            '7        .  '      0 

. 

•  ' 

0 

0 

Lettuce,                   .       "•  ' 

0 

. 

0 

'••'•;» 

0 

Melon,           ••-;      •'.--      . 

. 

0 

0 

*-•'. 

. 

Okra,              .        v        ;- 

. 

0 

V 

0 

. 

Onion,            .-        ."        0 

.  !  -^.  , 

•  ''V  ' 

•  *"" 

0 

'  .« 

Parsley,         .  -    "    *  •        0 

•- 

-  -  V  '• 

'  :  •-  '' 

0 

*; 

Parsnip,          .        >         0 

. 

:  '•'" 

•i  -' 

0 

;'  * 

Peppers,        .        V 

. 

0 

'•'f  * 

0 

0 

Peas,              .         .v        0 

. 

. 

. 

o      .  ': 

. 

Pumpkin,      .         . 

. 

0 

0 

'  •*     *•'• 

. 

Radish, 

0 

. 

0 

;•  ' 

. 

Salsify,          .         .          0 

. 

. 

0 

. 

. 

Spinach,       .         .          0 

• 

. 

. 

0 

9 

0 

0 

0 

Tomatoe, 

. 

0 

0 

.         . 

0 

Turnip,         .         •          • 

0 

• 

0 

. 

•  v 

Herbs  iu  general, 

. 

0 

• 

^         0 

0 

20  GENERAL   REMARKS. 

In  explication  of  the  table,  it  may  be  necessary  first  to 
premise,  that  in  the  classification,  as  respects  different  seeda 
germinating,  it  is  conceded  that  if  some  of  those  denomi- 
nated medium  were  put  upon  an  equal  footing  with  some  of 
the  class  denominated  quick-growing,  they  would  vegetate  in 
about  the  same  time.  For  instance,  Peas  would  sprout  as 
quick  as  Kidney  Beans  in  equal  temperature ;  but  Peas, 
being  hardy,  are  generally  planted  a  month  earlier  in  the 
season.  If  Beans  were  planted  at  the  same  time,  they  would 
rot  for  want  of  genial  heat  necessary  to  their  germinating. 
Many  of  the  species  denominated  medium  and  tardy, 
require  considerable  moisture  to  produce  vegetation  ;  when 
not  attainable,  tardiness  of  growth,  and  sometimes  total 
failure,  are  the  consequence  ;  judicious  gardeners,  however, 
generally  obviate  difficulties  of  this  nature,  by  sowing  such 
seeds  at  the  most  favourable  seasons.  Those  who  delay 
sowing  Carrot,  Celery,  Leek,  Parsley,  Onion,  Parsnip, 
Spinach,  &c.  until  dry  summer  weather,  render  themselves 
liable  to  disappointment  and  loss  thereby. 

As  some  gardeners  are  apt  to  attribute  all  failures  of  seed 
to  its  defectiveness,  I  shall,  in  the  hope  of  convincing  such 
of  their  error,  offer  a  few  observations  under  each  head  of 
the  table. 

The  first  and  second  classes,  denominated  hardy  and  half 
hardy,  are  subjected  to  risk  in  unpropitious  seasons,  from 
unfitness  of  the  soil  to  promote  vegetation,  rendered  so  by 
cold  rains  and  variable  weather.  If  sprouted  seed  survive 
a  severe  chill,  it  is  the  more  susceptible  of  frost,  to  which  it 
is  frequently  subjected  early  in  the  season.  Some  species 
of  plants  that  in  an  advanced  stage  of  growth  will  stand  a 
hard  winter,  are  often  cut  off"  by  very  slight  frost  while 
germinating,  especially  if  exposed  to  heat  of  the  sun  after 
a  frosty  night,  or  while  in  a  frozen  state.  Cabbage,  Carrot, 
Celery,  Turnip,  and  many  other  growing  plants,  which 
survive  the  ordinary  winters  of  England,  are  here  classed 
as  half  hardy,  fur  the  reasons  above  stated. 

The  third  class,  or  most  tender  species,  frequently  perish 


GENERAL  REMAEK3.  21 

from  excess  of  rain.  Lima  Beans,  for  instance,  have  often 
to  be  replanted  three  or  four  times  in  the  month  of  May, 
before  any  will  stand.  Melons,  Cucumbers,  Egg  Plants, 
Tomato  Plants,  &c..  are  also  often  cut  off  by  variableness  of 
the  weather  ;  indeed  it  is  unreasonable  to  expect  natives  of 
tropical  climates  to  thrive  or  even  live  in  a  climate  adverse  to 
that  in  which  nature  first  produced  them,  unless  protected 
or  nursed  in  unpropitious  seasons,  as  recommended  under 
the  head  forcing  vegetables.  Those  who  plant  tender 
things  in  open  gardens  early  in  the  season,  must  reconcile 
themselves  to  loss  in  the  event  of  unfavourable  weather, 
instead  of  throwing  blame  on  the  seedsman. 

The  fourth  class,  embracing  such  species  and  varieties, 
as  from  their  nature  are  apt  to  vegetate  quickly,  are  very 
liable  to  be  devoured  by  insects  before  they  make  any  show 
on  the  surface.  Turnip  seed,  for  instance,  will  sprout 
within  forty-eight  hours  after  being  sown ;  and  under  fa- 
TOurable  circumstances,  most  of  the  species  of  this  class 
will  come  up  within  a  week;  but  if  insects  attack  the  seed 
beds  in  dry  weather,  a  total  loss  of  crops  will  be  the  conse- 
quence. Every  experienced  farmer  is  convinced  of  this 
fact,  by  having  frequently  to  sow  his  turnip  ground  three  or 
four  times  before  he  can  get  any  to  stand. 

Sometimes  a  sudden  shower  of  rain  will  cause  plants  to 
grow  out  of  the  reach  of  insects,  but  every  good  gardener 
should  have  his  remedies  at  hand  to  apply  to  seed  beds  in 
general, and  especially  to  those  in  which  plants  are  raised  for 
the  purpose  of  being  transplanted. 

Those  species  and  varieties,  embraced  in  the  fifth  and  sixth 
columns,  often  take  from  two  to  three  or  four  weeks  to 
vegetate  in  unfavourable  seasons.  Some  plants  are  retarded 
by  cold,  others  by  excess  of  dry  weather  ;  and  at  such  times, 
seed  may  fail  to  vegetate  for  want  of  pressure.  In  the  event 
of  drought  after  heavy  rains,  seed  and  young  plants  often 
perish  through  incrustation  of  the  soil,  and  from  other  unto- 
ward circumstances  which  can  neither  be  controlled  or  accoun- 
ted for,  even  by  the  most  assiduous  and  precise  gardener.  It 
must,  however,  be  conceded,  that  failures  often  occur,  through 


22  GENERAL  REMARKS. 

seed  being  deposited  too  deep  in  the  ground,  or  left  too 
near  the  surface ;  sometimes,  for  want  of  sufficiency  of  seed 
in  a  given  spot,  solitary  plants  will  perish,  they  not  having 
sufficient  strength  to  open  the  pores  of  the  earth,  and  very 
frequently  injudicious  management  in  manuring  and  prepa- 
ring the  soil  will  cause  defeat. 

I  have  been  induced  to  expatiate,  and  in  the  seventh 
range  of  the  preceding  table,  to  designate  such  plants  as  are 
generally  cultivated,  first  in  seed  beds,  and  afterwards 
transplanted  for  the  purpose  of  being  accommodated  with 
space  to  mature  in,  with  a  view  to  answer  at  once  the 
thousand  and  one  questions  asked  by '  inexperienced  culti- 
vators, at  my  counter. 

Some  persons,  from  ignorance  of  the  nature  and  object  of 
raising  plants  for  transplanting,  ask  for  pounds  of  seed, 
when  an  ounce  is  amply  sufficient  for  their  purpose.  For 
example,  one  ounce  of  Celery  seed  will  produce  ten  thousand 
plants.  An  ounce  of  Cabbage  seed  will  produce  from  three 
to  four  thousand,  sufficient  when  transplanted  to  cover 
nearly  half  an  acre  of  land,  which  land,  if  sown  with 
Spinach,  for  instance,  would  require  from  four  to  six  pounds 
of  seed. 

To  prevent  any  altercation  on  this  subject,  I  would 
observe  in  conclusion,  that  many  other  vegetables  would 
admit  of  being  transplanted  besides  those  designated  in  our 
table  ;  but  as  there  is  considerable  risk  and  trouble,  insepa- 
rable from  the  operation,  it  is  needless  to  apply  it,  unless 
there  are  paramount  advantages  to  be  gained,  the  reverse  of 
which  would  be  the  case,  under  ordinary  circumstances, 
with  the  generality  of  those  plants  not  thus  designated. 

Instead  of  answering  any  more  queries,  I  think  I  shall 
for  the  future  follow  the  example  of  the  truly  eccentric 
Abernethy,  refer  all  enquirers  for  information  to  my  books, 
which  contain  an  answer  to  every  important  question  that 
has  been  put  to  me  on  the  subject  of  gardening  since  I 
became  an  author. 

T.  BRIDGEMAP*. 

New-York^  January,  184Q. 


*      23 

CATALOGUE, 

&c.  &c. 


%*  Previous  to  the  commencement  of  our  Catalogue, 
it  may  be  necessary  to  remind  the  reader,  that  the 
directions  which  follow,  are  founded  on  the  results  of 
practical  experience  in  the  vicinity  of  NEW-YORK  Cm, 
where  the  soil  is  generally  susceptible  of  gardening  ope- 
rations towards  the  end  of  March.  These  directions  may, 
however,  be  applied  to  all  other  parts  of  the  UNITED  STATES, 
by  a  minute  observance  of  the  difference  in  temperature. 

In  the  extreme  northern  parts  of  the  State  of  New- York, 
as  well  as  in  all  other  places  similarly  situated,  the  direc- 
tions for  the  beginning  of  April  may  apply  to  the  latter  end 
of  the  same  month,  with  very  few  exceptions. 

In  our  SOUTHERN  STATES,  the  directions  for  APRIL, 
which  may  be  considered  as  the  first  gardening  month  in  the 
EASTERN,  WESTERN  and  MIDDLE  STATES,  will  apply  to 
January,  February,  or  to  whatever  season  gardening  ope- 
rations may  commence  in  the  respective  States. 

In  the  varied  climates  of  each  particular  State,  if  the 
same  rule  of  application  be  pursued  to  the  end  of  the 
Calendar,  success  is  certain. 


ARTICHOKE. 
ARTICHAUT.     Cynara. 

VARIETIES. 

Cynara  Scolymus,  or  French.-         |          Cynara  Hortensis,  or  Globe. 

THE  garden  Artichoke,  a  native  of  the  South  of  Europe, 
is  much  cultivated  for  the  London  and  Paris  markets.  It  is 
a  perennial  plant,  producing  from  the  root  annually  its  large 
squamose  heads,  in  full  growth,  in  June  or  July,  until  Octo- 


24  ARTICHOKE. 

her  or  November.  The  Globe  Artichoke,  which  producer 
large  globular  heads,  is  best  for  general  culture,  the  heads 
being  considerably  larger,  and  the  eatable  parts  more  thick 
and  plump. 

Both  sorts  may  be  raised  from  the  seed,  or  young  suckers 
taken  from  old  plants  in  the  spring.  A  plantation  of 
Artichokes  will  continue  to  produce  good  heads  six  or  seven 
years,  and  sometimes  longer;  but  it  must  be  observed,  that 
if  a  supply  of  this  delicious  vegetable  be  required  through- 
out the  season,  a  small  plantation  should  be  made  from 
suckers  every  spring,  for  a  successive  crop,  as  the  young 
plants  will  continue  to  produce  their  heads  in  perfection, 
after  the  crops  of  the  old  standing  ones  are  over. 

The  most  likely  way  to  obtain  a  supply  of  Artichokes 
from  seed,  is  to  sow  the  seed  the  latter  end  of  March,  or 
early  in  April,  in  a  bed  of  good  rich  earth,  or  it  may  be 
planted  in  drills  one  inch  deep,  and  about  twelve  inches 
apart.  The  ground  should  be  light  and  moist,  not  such  as 
is  apt  to  become  bound  up  by  heat,  or  that  in  consequence 
of  too  large  a  proportion  of  sand,  is  likely  to  become  vio- 
lently hot  in  summer,  for  this  is  extremely  injurious  to  these 
plants.  After  the  plants  are  up,  they  should  be  kept  free 
from  weeds,  and  the  earth  often  loosened  around  them. 

Thebjsiness  of  transplanting  may  be  performed  in  cloudy 
or  wet  weather,  at  any  time  after  the  plants  are  from  nine  to 
twelve  inches  high.  Having  fixed  upon  a  proper  soil  and 
situation,  lay  on  it  a  good  quantity  of  rotten  dung,  and 
trench  the  ground  one  good  spade  or  eighteen  inches  deep, 
incorporating  the  manure  therewith  ;  this  being  done,  take 
up  the  plants,  and  after  shortening  their  tap  roots  a  little,  and 
dressing  their  leaves,  plant  them  with  a  dibble,  in  rows  five 
feet  asunder,  and  two  feet  plant  from  plant  in  the  row,  leav- 
ing part  of  their  green  tops  above  ground,  and  the  hearts  of 
the  plants  free  from  any  earth  over  them,  and  give  each 
plant  a  little  water  to  settle  the  roots. 

The  winter  dressing  of  Artichokes  is  an  important  opera- 
tion ;  on  it  depends  much  of  their  future  success.  This 
should  not  be  wiven  them  as  long  as  the  season  continues 


ARTICHOKE.  25 

mild,  that  they  may  have  all  possible  advantage  of  growth, 
and  be  gradually  inured  to  the  increasing  cold  weather ; 
but  it  should  not  be  deferred  too  late,  lest  by  the  sudden  set- 
ting in  of  hard  frost,  to  which  we  are  subject  in  the  Nor- 
thern States ;  the  work  be  neglected,  and  the  plants 
consequently  exposed  to  devastation  and  loss. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  all  the  large  leaves  close  to  the 
ground,  leaving  the  small  ones  which  rise  from  the  hearts 
of  the  plants  ;  after  this,  line  and  mark  out  a  trench  in  the 
middle,  between  e;ich  row,  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches 
wide,  presuming  that  the  rows  are  five  feet  apart,  as  directed. 
Then  lightly  dig  the  surface  of  the  beds  from  trench  to 
trench,  burying  the  weed.*,  and  as  you  proceed,  gather  the 
warth  around  the  crowns  of  the  plants  to  the  height  of  about 
six  inches,  placing  it  in  gently  between  the  young  rising 
leaves,  without  burying  them  entirely  under  it;  this  done, 
dig  the  trenches  one  spade  deep,  and  distribute  the  «arth 
equally  between  and  on  e;ich  side  of  the  plants,  so  as  to 
level  the  ridges,  giving  them  at  the  same  time  a  neat  round- 
ing form  ;  finish,  by  casting  up  with  a  shovel  the  loose  earth 
out  of  the  bottom  of  the  trenches  evenly  over  the  ridges,  in 
order  that  the  water  occasioned  by  heavy  rains,  &c.  may 
immediately  run  oft';  on  which  account  the  trenches  ougiit 
to  have  a  gentle  declivity,  as  the  lodgement  of  water  about 
the  roots  in  winter,  is  the  greatest  evil  and  danger  they  have 
to  encounter,  even  greater  than  the  most  severe  frosts  to 
which  we  are  subject 

Tiie  beds  are  to  remain  so,  uniil  there  is  an  appearance  of 
hard  frost,  when  they  should  be  covered  with  light  dung, 
Utter,  leaves  of  trees,  or  the  like,  the  better  to  preserve  the 
crowns  and  roots  from  its  rigour.  In  this  manner,  the  roots 
will  remain  in  perfect  safety  all  the  winter.  As  soon  as  the 
very  severe  frosts  are  over,  the  beds  must  be  uncovered,  and 
when  you  perceive  the  young  shoots  begin  to  appear  above 
ground,  or  rather  one  or  two  inches  up,  then,  and  not  before, 
proceed  to  levelling  down  the  beds  into  the  alleys  or 
trenches,  rounding  them  in  a  neat  manner;  then  dig  in  the 
short  manure,  and  loosen  all  the  earth  around  the  plant* 

3 


26        '  ARTICHOKE. 

At  the  same  time,  examine  the  number  of  shoots  ari- 
sing on  each  stool,  selecting  three  of  the  strongest  and 
healthiest-looking  on  every  stool  to  remain  ;  all  above  that 
number  afre  to  be  slipped  off  close  to  the  roots  with  the  hand, 
unless  you  want  such  to  make  new  plantations  with,  in 
which  case  any  extra  number  for  that  purpose  are  to  remain 
on  the  parent  plants,  until  they  are  about  eight  or  ten 
inches  high  from  their  roots,  or  junction  with  the  old  plants* 
when  they  are  to  be  slipped  off,  and  planted  in  a  bed  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  the  young  plants, 
taking  care  at  the  same  time  to  close  the  earth  about  the 
crowns  of  the  roots,  and  drawing  it  a  little  up  to  the  remain- 
ing suckers. 

Observe,  the  spring  dressing  is  to  be  given  when  the  plants 
are  in  the  above  described  state,  whetber  that  happens  in 
February,  March  or  April,  occasioned  by  the  difference  of 
climate,  in  the  respective  States,  or  by  the  earliness  or  late- 
ness of  the  spring. 

The  gardeners,  near  London,  generally  take  off  the  side 
suckers,  or  small  Artichokes,  when  they  are  about  the  size 
of  a  hen's  egg.  These  meet  with  a  ready  sale  in  the  mar- 
kets, and  the  principal  heads  that  are  left  are  always  larger 
and  more  handsome.  The  maturity  of  a  full-grown  Anti- 
choke  is  apparent  by  the  opening  of  the  scales ;  and  it 
should  always  be  cut  off  before  the  flower  appears  in  the 
centre ;  the  stem  should  be  cut  close  to  the  ground  at  the 
same  time. 

Artichokes  are  esteemed  as  a  luxury  by  epicures.  To 
have  them  in  perfection,  they  should  be  thrown  into  cold 
water  as  soon  as  gathered,  and  after  having  been  soajaed 
and  well  washed,  put  into  the  boiler  when  the  water  is  hot, 
with  a  little  salt,  arid  kept  boiling  until  tender,  which  gene- 
rally takes,  for  full  grown  Artichokes,  from  an  hour  and  a 
half  to  two  hours.  When  taken  up,  drain  and  trim  them  ; 
then  serve  them  up  with  melted  butter,  pepper,  salt,  and 
such  other  condiment  as  may  best  suit  the  palate. 


27 
ASPARAGUS. 

ASPERGE.     Asparagus  ojficinalis. 

VARIETIES. 

Gravesend.  I  Large  Battersea. 

Large  White  Reading.  Large  German,  or  Giant. 

This  plant  is  a  native  of  cold  climates,  and  is  found 
growing  wild  in  Russia  and  Poland,  where  it  is  eaten  by  the 
cattle  as  grass.  It  will  endure  the  severity  of  our  winters, 
and  produce  its  buds,  when  the  weather  gets  mild  ;  but  as 
garden  products  are  generally  scarce  after  a  hard  winter,  the 
gardener  who  studies  his  interest  will  make  the  most  of  the 
spring  season,  and  raise  all  he  can  before  the  market* 
become  glutted ;  to  this  end,  he  is  recommended  to  prepare 
for  forcing  this  vegetable,  as  soon  as  the  coldest  of  the 
winter  is  past. — (See  article  on  Forcing  Vegetables.) 

Asparagus  plants  may  be  raised  by  sowing  the  seed  in 
the  fall  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  in  March,  and  the  early  part  of 
April.  It  requires  some  of  the  best  ground  in  the  garden. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills,  ten  or  twelve  inches  asun- 
der, and  covered  half  an  inch  with  light  earth.  When  the 
plants  are  up,  they  will  need  a  careful  hoeing,  and  if  culti- 
vated, and  kept  free  from  weeds,  they  will  be  large  enough 
to  transplant  when  they  are  a  year  old.  Some  keep  them  in 
the  nursery  bed  until  two  years  old. 

A  plantation  of  Asparagus,  if  the  beds  are  properly  dressed 
every  year,  will  continue  to  produce  good  buds  for  twenty 
years  or  more. 

New  plantations  of  Asparagus  may  be  made  in  Autumn, 
or  before  the  buds  get  far  advanced  in  Spring,  say  February, 
March,  or  April,  according  to  situation  and  circumstances. 
The  ground  for  the  bed  must  not  be  wet,  nor  too  strong  or 
stubborn,  but  such  as  is  moderately  light  and  pliable,  so 
as  it  will  readily  fall  to  pieces  in  digging  or  raking,  and 
in  a  situation  that  enjoys  the  full  sun.  It  should  have 
a  large  supply  of  good  rotten  dung,  three  or  four  inches 
thick,  and  then  be  regularly  trenched  two  spades  deep, 


28  ASPARAGUS. 

and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench  twelve  or 
fifteen  inches  below  the  surface.  When  this  trenching  is- 
done,  lay  on  two  or  three  inches  of  well  rotted  manure  all 
over  the  surface,  and  dig  the  ground  over  again  eight  or 
ten  inches  deep,  mixing  this  Jop  dressing,  and  incorporating 
it  well  with  the  earth. 

In  family  gardens,  it  is  customary  to  divide  the  ground 
thus  prepared  into  beds,  allowing  four  feet  for  every  four 
rows  of  plants,  with  alleys  two  feet  and  a  half  wide  between 
each  bed.  Strain  your  line  along  the  bed  six  inches  from 
the  edge  ;  then,  with  a  spade,  cut  out  a  small  trench  or  drill 
close  to  the  line,  about  six  inches  deep,  making  that  side 
next  the  line  nearly  upright,  and  when  one  trench  is  opened, 
plant  that  before  you  open  another,  placing  the  plants 
upright  ten  or  twelve  inches  distance  in  the  row,  and  let 
every  row  be  twelve  inches  apart. 

The  plants  must  not  be  placed  flat  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trench,  but  nearly  upright  against  the  back  of  it,  and  so  that 
the  crown  of  the  plants,  may  also  stand  upright,  and  two  or 
three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  spreading 
their  roots  somewhat  regularly  against  the  back  of  the 
trench,  and  at  the  same  time  drawing  a  little  earth  up 
against  them  with  the  hand  as  you  place  them,  just  to  fix 
the  plants  in  their  due  position  until  the  row  is  planted  ; 
when  one  row  is  thus  placed,  with  a  rake  or  hoe  draw  the 
earth  into  the  trench  over  the  plants,  and  then  proceed  to 
open  another  drill  or  trench,  as  before  directed  ;  and  fill  and 
cover  it  in  the  same  manner,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  is 
plan'edr;  then  let  the  surface  of  the  beds  be  raked  smooth 
and  clear  from  stones,  &c» 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  have  extra  large  heads, 
place  their  plants  sixteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  instead 
of  twelve,  and  by  planting  them  in  the  quincunx  manner, 
that  is,  by  commencing  the  second  row  eight  inches  from 
the  end  of  the  first;  and  the  fourth  even  with  the  second, 
the  plants  will  form  rhomboidal  squares,  instead  of  rectan- 
gular ones,  and  every  plant  will  thus  have  room  to  expand 
its  roots  and  leaves  luxuriantly. 


ASPARAGUS. 


29 


The  above  directions  are  intended  for  family  gardens. 
Those  who  may  wish  to  raise  Asparagus  in  large  quantities 
for  market,  should  prepare  the  ground  with  a  plough/and 
plant  two  rows  in  each  bed,  which  may  be  carried  to  any 
length  required.  If  several  beds  are  intended,  they  may  be 
planted  in  single  rows  four  or  five  feet  apart,  in  order  that 
the  plough  may  be  worked  freely  between  them.  Frequent 
ploughing  will  cause  the  roots  to  spread,  so  as  to  widen  the 
beds,  and  the  winter  dressing  may  be  performed  in  a  great 
measure  with  the  plough.  After  the  Asparagus  is  eut,  the 
ground  between  the  beds  may  be  ploughed,  and  planted 
with  Cabbage,  Potatoes,  or  any  other  vegetable,  usually  cul- 
tivated in  rows. 

Winter  Dressing  of  Asparagus  Beds. 
About  the  begining  of  November,  if  the  stalks  of  your 
Asparagus  turn  yellow,  which  is  a  sign  of  their  having 
finished  their  growth  for  the  season,  cut  them  down  close  to 
the  earth,  carry  them  off  the  ground,  and  clear  the  beds 
carefully  from  weeds. 

Asparagus  beds  must  have  an  annual  dressing  of  good 
manure  ;  let  it  be  laid  equally  over  the  beds,  two  or  tliree 
inches  thick,  after  which,  with  a  fork  made  for  the  purpose, 
(which  should  have  three  flat  tines,)  dig  in  the  dung  quite 
down  to  the  crowns  of  the  plants,  by  which  means  the  roots 
will  be  greatly  benefitted ;  as  the  winter  rams  will  wash  the 
manure  down  amongst  them.  It  is  the  practice  with  some 
gardeners  to  dig  the  alleys  at  every  autumn  dressing,  and 
to  cover  the  beds  with  the  soil  so  taken  out ;  this  may  be 
done  for  the  first  two  years  after  the  beds  are  made,  but  not 
afterwards ;  as,  when  the  plants  are  in  full  growth,  their 
roots  and  crowns  extend  into  the  alleys,  and  the  digging 
them  out  frequently  destroys  plants,  or  renders  them  too 
weak  to  produce  buds  in  perfection.  The  beds  will  be 
greatly  benefitted  if  covered  to  the  depth  of  several  inches 
with  leaves,  sea-weed,  or  long  litter  from  the  livery  stables. 

The  seedling  Asparagus  should  also  have  a  slightdress- 
iag,  t4iat  is>  to  clear  the  bed  from  weeds,  and  then  to  spread 

*3 


30  ASPARAGUS. 

an  inch  or  two  in  depth  of  light  dung  over  it,  to  defend  the 
crown  of  the  plants  from  frost. 

Spring  Dressing  of  the  Beds. 

This  work  should  be  done  from  about  the  latter  end  of 
March,  to  the  middle  of  April,  or  just  before*  the  buds  begin 
to  rise.  After  clearing  away  all  the  long  litter,  or  whatever 
may  incumber  the  ground,  spread  the  short  dung  over  the 
whole  surface,  and  dig  it  in  :  if  the  alleys  be  dug  at  the 
same  time,  it  will  be  very  beneficial  to  the  plants.  Care 
must  be  taken  at  this  season  not  to  wound  the  crowns  with 
the  tines  of  the  fork,  but  forking  the  beds  should  not  be 
neglected ;  as  the  admitting  of  sun  arid  rain  into  the  ground, 
induces  the  plants  to  throw  up  buds  of  superior  size ;  to 
promote  such  a  desirable  object,  the  ground  should  be  kept 
clear  of  weeds  at  all  seasons,  as  these  greatly  impoverish, 
and  frequently  smother  the  plants. 


The  gardeners  of  Knghind  raise  Asparagus  in  great  per- 
fection ;  and  sometimes  have  buds  weighing  from  three  to 
five  ounces  each.  Loudon  says,  in  his  Encyclopajdia  of 
Gardening,  that  one  grower  alone  has  eighty  acres  entirely 
under  this  crop  for  the  London  markets. 

Asparagus  plants  will  not  produce  buds  large  enough  to 
cut  for  general  use,  in  less  than  three  years  from  the  time  of 
planting,  but  in  the  fourth  year,  when  the  shoots  are  three  or 
four  inches  high,  they  will  bear  extensive  cutiing,  which 
should,  however,  be  discontinued  when  no  large  buds  are 
thrown  up.  The  best  way  of  cutting,  is  to  slip  the  knife 
down  perpendicularly  close  to  each  shoot,  and  cut  it  off 
slantingly,  about  three  or  four  inches  within  the  ground, 
taking  care  not  to  wound  any  younjj  buds  coming  from  the 
same  root,  for  there  are  always  several  shools  advancing  in 
different  stages  o£  growth. 

Asparagus  is  considered  a  wholesome  vegetable,  and 
should  not  be  kept  long  after  it  is  gathered  ;  after  being  well 
washed,  it  may  be  tied  in  bundles  of  about  a  dozen  buds 
each,  and  boiled  in  water,  seasoned  with  salt,  until  tender, 


BEANS.  31 

which  will  be  in  about  twenty  minutes  ;  take  it  up  before  it 
loses  its  true  colour  and  flavour,  and  serve  up  on  toasted 
bread,  with  melted  butter,  £c. 


BEANS,  (English  Dwarfs.) 
FETE  DE  MARAIS.      Vicia  faba. 


VAKIETIES. 


Early  Mazagan. 
Early  Lisbon. 
Early  Long  Pod. 
Large  Windsor. 
Large  Toker. 
Broad  Spanish- 


Sandwich  Bean. 
Greeen  Genoa. 
Dwarf  Cluster. 
White  Blossom. 
Green  Nonpareil. 
Sword  Long  Pod. 


THE  principal  cause  of  these  garden  Beans  not  succeed- 
ing  well  in  this  country,  is  the  summer  heat  overtaking  them 
before  they  are  podded,  causing  the  blossom  to  drop  off" 
prematurely ;  to  obviate  this  difficulty,  they  should  be 
planted  as  early  in  the  year  as  possible ;  as  recommended 
in  the  article,  "  Forwarding  Broad  Beans."  They  are  gene- 
rally planted  in  England,  from  October  to  April,  for  early 
crops,  and  from  that  time  to  July,  for  late  crops.  It  some- 
times happens  that  autumn  plantings  are  injured  by  the 
extremity  of  their  winters,  but  they  never  miss  having  an 
average  crop. 

In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  if  a  few  of 
the  best  varieties  of  these  Beans  be  planted  in  the  open 
ground,  as  soon  in  the  season  as  it  can  be  brought  into 
good  condition,  they  will  come  into  bearing  in  regular  suc- 
cession, according  to  their  different  degrees  of  earliness, 
and  plantings  may  be  repeated  every  ten  days  of  the  first 
spring  month ;  but  it  is  only  from  those  that  are  planted 
early,  that  any  tolerable  produce  can  be  expected,  as  they 
become  deficient  in  quality,  as  well  as  in  quantity,  on  the 
approach  of  extreme  warm  weather. 

In  the  Southern  States,  they  may  be  planted  in  succession 
throughout  the  autumn  and  winter  months,  which  will  cause 
them  to  bear  early  in  the  ensuing  season. 


32  BEANS. 

The  best  mode  of  planting  is  in  drills,  drawn  two  inches 
deep,  in  which  the  seed  beans  may  be  dropped  two  or  three 
inches  apart,  according  to  their  size,  and  the  drills  may  be 
from  two  to  three  feet  assunder.  A  strong  clayey  soil  is  the 
most  suitable ;  but  they  often  do  well  in  moderately  light 
ground,  provided  it  be  well  trodden,  or  rolled,  after  the 
beans  are  planted. 

As  soon  as  the  Beans  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
will  need  a  careful  hoeing,  and  if  some  earth  be  drawn  up  to 
their  stems,  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of  their  growth, 
it  will  greatly  refresh  and  strengthen  them. 

When  they  arrive  at  full  bloom,  and  the  lower  pods  begin 
to  set,  the  tops  may  be  broken  off.  If  this  be  done  at  the 
proper  time,  it  will  promote  the  swelling  of  the  pods,  as  well 
as  their  early  maturity ;  for  having  no  advancing  tops  to 
nourish,  the  whole  effort  of  the  root  will  go  to  the  support  of 
the  fruit. 

Broad  Beans  are  particularly  subject  to  green  bugs. 
Tobacco  water,  or  salt  water,  will  sometimes  destroy  them  ; 
but  the  most  certain  way  is  to  watch  their  first  appearance, 
and  to  pick  off  that  part  on  which  they  first  settle,  and  burn 
it;  or  if  such  plants  be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground,  they 
will  produce  fresh  shoots  which  may  bear  a  good  crop. 

One  quart  of  seed  Beans  will  be  required  for  every  sixty 
feet  of  row,  allowing  the  smallest  sorts  to  be  planted  about 
two  inches  apart,  and  the  largest  four  inches, 

The  Beans  should  be  gathered  young,  and  shelled  while 
fresh.  After  having  been  washed,  let  them  be  boiled  in 
plenty  of  water  with  a  little  salt  and  a  bunch  of  green 
parsley.  They  take  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  boiling, 
according  to  age,  and  may  be  served  up  with  melted  butter, 
gravy,  &c. ;  but  they  are  very  good  when  cooked  and  eaten 
with  fat  pork,  or  good  old-fashioned  Hampshire  bacon.. 


33 

BEANS.     (Kidney  Dwarf.) 
HARICOT.     Phascolus  vulgaris^  etc. 


TARIETIES. 


Early  Mohawk. 

Early  Valentine. 

Early  Yellow  Six  Week?. 

Early  Dun-Colored,  or  Quaker. 

Early  China  Dwarf. 

Quails'  Head. 

Early  Rob  Roy. 

Early  Black  Dwarf. 


Large  White  Kidney  Dwarf. 

White  Cranberry  Dwarf 

Red  Cranberry  Dwarf. 

Yellow  Cranberry  Do. 

vv  arrington,  or  Marrow. 

Refugee,  or  Thou  and  to  One. 

Marble  ^wi-s  Bean. 

Royal  Dwarf  Kidney,  or  Frenah. 


These  varieties  of  Beans  being  natives  of  India,  South 
America,  and  other  warm  climates,  will  not  endure  the  least 
cold,  it  is  therefore  always  hazardous  to  plant  them  in  the 
open  ground  until  settled  warm  weather.  The  earliest 
varieties  if  planted  towards  the  end  of  April,  or  the  first  week 
in  May,  will  come  to  perfection  in  from  six  to  eight  weeks 
after  planting.  Some  of  the  later  varieties  will  keep  longer 
in  bearing,  and  are  esteemed  by  some  on  that  account. 
These,  with  some  of  the  early  varieties,  may  be  planted' 
In  the  months  of  May  and  June,  and  if  a  regular  succession? 
of  young  Beans  be  required  throughout  the  summer,  some 
of  the  varieties  should  be  planted  every  two  weeks,  from 
the  last  week  in  April  until  the  beginning  of  August. 

These  Beans  require  a  light  rich  soil,  in  which  they  should 
be  planted  in  hills,  three  or  four  in  a  hill,  or  drills  about  two 
inches  deep,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three  inches  from  each 
other;  the  drills  may  be  fn>m  two  to  three  feet  apart.  The 
Refugees  are  best  planted  in  hills.  As  the  Beans  progress  in 
growth,  let  them  be  carefully  hoed,  drawing  some  earth  up  to 
their  stems  at  the  same  time,  which  will  cause  them  to  be 
soon  fit  for  the  table. 

Many  gardeners,  anxious  to  have  Beans  early,  are  apt  to 
begin  planting  too  soon  in  the  season,  and  very  frequently 
lose  their  first  crops.  It  should  be  recollected,  that  these 
Beans  are  next  to  Cucumbers  and  Melons  for  tenderness^ 
and  will  always  grow  quicker  and  yield  better,  if  the  planting 
be  delayed  until  settled  warm  weather.  The  Early  Mohawk 


84  BEANS. 

is  the  hardiest,  and  may  sometimes  succeed  well,  if  planted 
about  the  middle  of  April. 

One  quart  of  Kidney  Beans  will  plant  from  three  hundred 
and  fifty  to  four  hundred  hills,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
Beans,  allowing  four  Beans  to  each  hill,  or  from  two 
hundred  and  thirty  to  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  of  row, 
allowing  six  Beans  to  every  foot. 

These  Beans  should  not  be  suffered  to  get  old  and  tough 
before  they  are  gathered;  be  careful  in  trimming  them,  lo 
strip  off  the  strings ;  to  effect  this  desirable  object,  break 
them  across  ;  and,  in  order  to  preserve  their  greenness,  soak 
them  in  salted  water  for  a  short  time,  then  put  them  into 
the  water  while  boiling,  which  should  be  previously  seasoned 
with  salt.  When  they  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  take  them  up,  and  drain  them 
through  a  colander,  in  order  to  render  them  capable  of 
absorbing  a  due  share  of  gravy,  melted  butter,  &c. 


BEANS.     (Pole  or  Running.) 
HARICOTS  A  RAMES. 

Phaseolus  jLimensis. 

VARIETIES. 

Lar^e  White  Lima.  |  Carolina,  Lima,  or  Sky. 

Phaseolus  MuUiflorus. 

VARIETIES. 

Scarlet  Runners  London  Horticultural. 

White  Dutch  Runners.  French  Bicolour. 

Dutch  Case  Knife,  or  Princess.       1  Red   Cranberry. 

Asparagus,  or  Yard  Long.  White  Cranberry, 

These  species  and  varieties  of  Beans  may  be  planted  early 
in  the  month  of  May,  and  in  June,  either  in  hills  three  feet 
distant  from  each  other,  or  in  drills  about  two  inches  deep, 
and  the  beans  two  or  three  inches  apart  in  the  drills.  The 
poles  should  be  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  and  may  be  fixed  in 
the  ground  before  the  Beans  are  planted. 

The  varieties  of  Lima  Beans  should  not  be  planted  in 
the  open  ground  until  the  second  week  in  May,  unless  the 


BEANS.  35 

season  be  very  favourable,  and  the  ground  warm.  •  As  these 
Beans  are  apt  to  get  rotten  by  cold  and  damp  weather,  let 
six  or  eight  be  planted  half  an  inch  deep  round  each  pole, 
and  afterwards  thinned,  leaving  three  or  four  good  plants 
in  a  hill,  which  hills  should  be  full  four  feet  distance  from 
each  other,  every  way. 

The  soil  for  running  Beans  should  be  the  same  as  for 
Dwarfs,  except  the  Lima,  which  require  richer  ground  than 
any  of  the  other  sorts.  A  shovelful  of  rich  light  compost, 
mixed  with  the  earth  in  each  hill,  would  be  beneficial. 

If  any  varieties  are  wanted  before  the  ordinary  seasons, 
they  may  be  planted  in  flower  pots  in  April,  and  placed  in 
a  greenhouse  or  garden  frame,  and  being  transplanted  in 
May,  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  will  come  into  bearing 
ten  or  fourteen  days  earlier  than  those  which,  in  the  first 
instance,  are  planted  in  the  natural  ground. 

It  will  require  about  a  quart  of  Lima  Beans  to  plant  one 
hundred  hills.  A  quart  of  the  smallest  sized  Pole  Beans 
will  plant  three  hundred  hills  and  upwards,  or  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  row,  and  the  largest  runners  will  go 
about  as  far  as  the  Lima  Beans. 

Lima  Beans  should  be  shelled  while  fresh,  and  boiled  fa 
plenty  of  water  until  tender,  which  generally  takes  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes.  Some  cook  the  ripe  Beans  in 
winter,  in  which  case  they  should  be  soaked  in  soft  water 
for  a  few  hours,  and  then  put  into  the  water  cold,  and  boiled 
until  tender,  with  a  little  salt ;  but  salted  meat  being  boiled 
with  them  answers  the  same  purpose,  and  makes  them 
sweeter  and  more  wholesome.  The  mode  of  cooking  the 
other  sorts*  is  the  same  as  Kidney  Dwarfs. 


36 

BEET. 

BETTERAVE.     Beta  vulgaris. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Blood  Turnip-rooted. 
Early  Long  Blood. 
Extra  Dark  Blood 
Yellow  Turnip-rooted. 


Early  Scarcity. 
Mangel  Wurtzel. 
French  Sugar  or  Ambef . 
Sir  John  Sinclair's. 


BEETS,  in  their  several  varieties,  are  biennial,  and  the  best 
blood-coloured  are  much  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  their  roots, 
which  are  excellent  when  cooked,  and  very  suitable  for 
pickling  after  being  boiled  tender ;  they  also,  when  sliced, 
make  a  beautiful  garnish  for  the  dish,  and  the  young  plants 
are  an  excellent  substitute  for  Spinach. 

The  Mangel  Wur.lzel, Scarcity,  and  Yellow  Turnip  Beets, 
are  cultivated  for  cattle.  Domestic  animals  eat  the  leaves 
and  roots  with  great  avidity.  They  are  excellent  food  for 
swine,  and  also  for  milch  cows ;  and  possess  the  quality  of 
making  them  give  a  large  quantity  of  the  best  flavoured 
milk. 

A  small  bed  of  the  earliest  Turnip-rooted,  and  other 
esteemed  kinds  of  Beets,  may  be  planted  in  good  rich  early 
ground  the  first  week  of  April,  which  being  well  attended  to 
will  produce  good  roots  in  June. 

Draw  drills  a  foot  apart,  and  about  two  inches  deep  ;  drop 
the  seed  along  the  drills  one  or  two  inches  from  each 
other,  and  cover  them  with  the  earth.  When  the  plants  a»e 
up  strong,  thin  them  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches 
from  each  oilier  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  after- 
wards hoed  deep  round  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds. 

if  the  planting  of  Beet  seed,  for  general  crops,  be  delayed 
until  May  or  June,  the  roots  will  be  much  larger  and  better 
than  those  from  the  earliest  planting,  which,  from  being  fre- 
quently stunted  in  growth  by  the  various  changes  of  weather, 
become  tough,  stringy,  and  of  unhandsome  shape.  In  case 
of  failing  crops,  Beet  seed  planted  the  first  week  in  July,  will 
sometimes  produce  large  handsome  roots,  which  may  be  pre- 
served for  Winter  use. 


BORECOLE,  OR  KALE.  37 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  Beets,  is  that  which  may 
have  been  well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  would  re- 
quire no  fresh  manure,  provided  it  be  well  pulverized. 

It  is  always  best  to  thin  Beets  while  young.  If  the  tops  are 
used  as  a  vegetable,  they  should  not  be  left  too  long  for  this 
purpose,  or  they  will  greatly  injure  the  roots  of  those  that  are 
to  stand.  Beds  that  are  to  stand  through  the  Summer,  should 
be  kept  clean  by  repeated  hoeings  ;  and  the  roots  intended 
for  Winter  use  should  be  taken  up  in  October,  or  early  in 
November,  and  stowed  away  as  directed  in  the  calendar  for 
those  months. 

Allowing  Beet  seed  to  be  planted  on  the  gardening  plan, 
it  will  require  at  the  rate  often  pounds  for  an  acre  of  land, 
which  is  two  pounds  and  a  half  for  a  rood,  and  one  ounce 
for  every  perch,  pole,  or  rod.  If  cultivated  on  the  field 
system,  one  half  the  quantity  of  seed  will  be  sufficient,  or 
even  less,  if  sown  regular.  If  it  be  an  object  with  the 
gardener  to  save  his  seed,  he  may  plant  two  or  three  seeds 
in  each  spot  where  a  plant  is  required,  and  thin  them  as 
before  directed. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  add,  that  one  pound  of  Beet  seed 
will  measure  about  two  quarts,  and  as  each  capsule  contains 
four  or  five  small  seeds,  thinning  out  the  surplus  plants  is 
indispensible  to  the  production  of  good  roots; 


BORECOLE,  OR  RALE. 

CHOU  FRISE  VERT.     Brassica  oleracea,  etc. 


VARIETIES. 


Green  Curled,  or  ?cotch.  . 
Dwarf  Brown,  or  German. 
Purple  Fringed. 


Jerusalem,  or  Buda. 

Cesarean  Kale. 

'i  housand-headed  Cabbage. 


There  are  several  sub-varieties  of  this  genus  of  plants 
besides  those  above  specified,  most  of  which  have  large  open 
heads,  with  curled  wrinkled  leaves.  The  Dwarf  Curled,  or 
Finely  Fringed  sorts,  are  much  cultivated  in  Europe  for  the 
table ;  and  the  coarse  and  tali  growing  are  considered  pro- 

4 


38  BRUSSELS    SPROUTS. 

fitable  for  cattle.  The  Thousand-headed  Cabbage^  and 
Cesarean  Kale,  grow  from  three  to  five  feet  high,  and  branch 
out  from  the  stem,  yielding  an  abundant  supply  of  leaves 
and  sprouts  in  the  Winter  and  Spring. 

For  the  garden,  these  several  varieties  may  be  treated  in 
every  respect  as  Winter  Cabbages.  The  seeds  may  be  sown 
from  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the  first  week  in  June*  and 
the  plants  set  out  in  the  month  of  July,  in  good  rich 
ground.  They  are  never  so  delicious  as  when  rendered 
tender  by  smart  frosts ;  they  are  valuable  plants  to  cultivate? 
particularly  in  the  more  Southerly  States,  as  they  will  there 
be  in  the  greatest  perfection  during  the  winter  months  ; 
they  will  also,  if  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil,  and  in  a  sheltered 
warm  situation,  bear  the  winters  of  the  Western  States  ;  and 
may  be  kept  in  great  perfection  in  the  Eastern  States,  if 
taken  up  before  the  frost  sets  in  with  much  severity,  and 
placed  in  trenches  up  to  their  lower  leaves,  and  then  covered 
with  straw  or  other  light  covering:  the  heads  may  be  cutoff* 
as  they  are  required  for  use ;  and  in  the  spring,  the  stems 
being  raised  up,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  delicious 
greens. 

One  ounce  of  good  Borecole  seed  will  produce  about  four 
thousand  plants,  and  may  be  sown  in  a  border  four  feet  by 
ten,  or  thereabouts. 


BRUSSELS    SPROUTS. 

CHOU  DE  BRUXELLES  AGETS.     Brassica  oleracea. 

This  plant  frequently  grows  from  three  to  five  feet  high, 
and  produces  from  the  stem  small  heads  resembling  cab- 
bages in  miniature,  each  being  from  one  to  two  inches  in 
diameter.  The  top  of  the  plant  resembles  the  Savoy,  when 
planted  late.  The  sprouts  are  used  as  winter  greens,  and 
they  become  very  tender  when  touched  with  the  frost. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  May,  in  the 
same  manner  as  Borecole,  and  the  plants  set  out  with  a 


BROCCOLI.  39 

dibble  early  in  July.  The  subsequent  treatment  must  be  i» 
every  respect  as  for  Borecole. 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  furnish  the  New-York 
markets  with  greens  early  in  the  spring  season,  when  vege- 
tables in  general  are  scarce,  cultivate  the  common  Rape, 
Brassica  Rapus ;  it  being  a  good  substitute  for  Brussels 
Sprouts,  which  are  not  always  attainable  after  a  hard  winter. 
If  Rape  seed  be  sown  early  in  September,  the  plants  will 
survive  an  ordinary  winter,  and  produce  top  shoots  or 
sprouts  early  ;  but  it  is  best  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  is 
susceptible  of  cultivation  in  the  Spring,  say  the  last  week  in 
March.  The  sprouts  should  be  cut  while  young,  as  such 
greens  then  command  the  best  prices,  and  are  more  palatable 
than  when  far  advanced  in  growth. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  add,  that  in  cooking  these  sprouts, 
as  also  Kale,  Colewort,  and  greens  in  general,  they  should 
be  put  into  hot  water,  seasoned  with  salt,  and  kept  boiling 
briskly  until  tender.  If  it  be  an  object  to  preserve  their 
natural  colour,  put  a  small  Jump  of  pearlash  into  the  water, 
which  also  makes  the  coarser  kinds  of  cabbage  more  ten- 
der in  the  absence  of  salted  meat. 


BROCCOLI. 

CHOU  BROCOLI.     Brassica  oleracea  Italica. 


VARIETIES. 


•ly 
rlv 


Early  Dwarf  Purple. 
Early  Green. 
Dwarf  Brown. 
Large  Late  Purple 


Lanre  Purple  Cape 
White  Cape,  or  Cauliflower. 
Sulphur  Coloured  Cape. 
Branching  Purple. 
Large  Late  Green. 


The  several  varieties  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  may  be 
justly  ranked  among  the  greatest  luxuries  of  the  garden. 
They  need  only  be  known  in  order  to  be  esteemed.  The 
Broccoli  produces  heads,  consisting  of  a  lump  of  rich  seedy 
pulp  like  the  Cauliflower,  only  that  some  are  of  a  green 
colour,  some  purple,  some  brown ,,  &c.  and  the  white  kinds- 


40  BROCCOLI. 

so  exactly  resemble  the  true  Cauliflower,  as  to  be  scarcely 
distinguished  either  in  colour  or  taste. 

Broccoli  is  quite  plentiful  throughout  England  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  and  it  is  raised  with  as  little  trouble  as 
Cabbages  are  here.  The  mode  of  raising  the  Purple  Cape 
Broccoli  is  now  generally  understood  in  this  part  of  Ame- 
rica ;  but  the  cultivation  of  the  other  kinds  has  been  nearly 
abandoned,  on  account  of  the  ill  success  attending  former 
attempts  to  bring  them  to  perfection. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States,  where  the  winters  are 
not  more  severe  than  in  England,  they  will  stand  in  the 
open  ground,  and  continue  to  produce  their  fine  heads  from 
November  to  April.  In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle 
States,  if  the  seeds  of'the  late  kinds  be  sown  in  April,  and 
the  earlier  kinds  in  May,  in  the  open  ground,  and  treated 
in  the  same  manner  as  Cauliflower  plants,  it  would  be  the 
most  certain  method  of  obtaining  large  and  early  flowers; 
but  as  only  a  part  of  these  crops  can  be  expected  to  come 
to  perfection  before  the  approach  of  winter,  the  remainder 
will  have  to  be  taken  up,  laid  in  by  the  roots,  and  covered 
with  earth  up  to  the  lower  leaves,  in  some  sheltered  situa- 
tion, to  promote  the  finishing  of  their  growth. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining  Broccoli  and  Cauli- 
flower in  any  quantity,  so  as  to  have  all  the  different  varieties 
in  succession,  should  have  places  erected  similar  to  some 
of  our  greenhouses:  the  back  and  roof  may  be  made  of 
refuse  lumber,  which  being  afterwards  covered  with  fresh 
stable  dung,  will  keep  out  the  frost.  The  place  allotted  for 
Cape  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  should  have  a  glazed  roof  to 
face  the  south — the  sashes  must  be  made  to  take  off  in  mild 
weather,  but  they  should  be  always  kept  shut  in  severe  cold 
weather,  and  covered  with  mats,  or  boards,  litter,  &c.,  so 
(  fleet u ally  as  to  keep  out  the  frost. 

The  hardy  kinds  of  Broccoli  may  be  preserved  without 
glass,  by  having  shutters  provided  to  slide  over  the  front  in 
extreme  cold  weather,  which  may  be  covered  over  with  fresh 
stable  dung  or  other  litter.  If  these  plants  get  frozen,  it  will 
lie  necessary  to  keep  the  full  power  of  the  sun  from  comin  g 


BROCCOLI.  41 

on  them  until  they  be  thawed  ;  this  may  be  done  by  shaking 
a  little  straw  on  the  bed  as  they  lay. 

It  may,  perhaps,  be  not  generally  understood,  that  the 
sudden  transition  from  cold  to  heat,  is  more  destructive  to 
vegetables  than  the  cold  itself.  If  plants  of  any  kind  get 
frozen,  and  cannot  be  screened  from  the  sudden  rays  of  the 
sun,  they  should  be  well  watered  as  the  air  gets  warm,  and 
before  they  begin  to  thaw  ;  this  will  draw  out  the  frost,  and 
may  be  the  means  of  saving  the  plants. 

The  proper  time  for  sowing  seed  of  the  Purple  Cape 
Broccoli,  is  from  the  tenth  to  the  twenty-fourth  of  May  :* 
those  who  intend-to  provide  a  place  for  the  winter  keeping  of 
the  other  kinds,  may  sow  seeds  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties 
at  the  same  time,  or  in  two  or  three  separate  sowings,  a 
week  apart. 

In  order  to  insure  good  stout  plants,  let  the  seed  at  this 
season  be  sown  in  a  moderately  shaded  border.  It  is  best 
sown  in  shallow  drills,  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apart,  in 
which  case  one  ounce  of  seed  will  occupy  a  border  of  about 
four  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and  produce  about 
four  thousand  strong  plants. 

In  the  beginning  of  July,  or  when  the  plants  are  of 
sufficient  size,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  extraordi- 
nary rich  ground,  which  should  be  brought  previously  into 
good  condition.  This  being  done,  plant  them  in  rows  two 
feet  and  a  half  apart,  and  two  feet  distance  in  the  rows. 

*  It  has  been  proved  by  repeated  experiments,  that  the  Purple  Cape 
Broccoli  succeeds  better  in  our  climate  than  any  other  variety;  and, 
also,  that  if  Broccoli  or  Cauliflower  plants  be  retarded  in  growth  by 
extreme  heat,  they  seldom  arrive  st  good  perfection.  It  is,  therefore, 
important  that  the'tirae  of  sowinj  the  seed  of  Cape  Broccoli  be  so  regu- 
lated as  to  allow,  say  six  weeks  of  the  summer,  for  the  plants  to  grow  in, . 
previous  to  their  bein^  transplanted,  and  about  seven  or  eight  weeks 
between  then  and  the  commencement  of  cool  autumn  weather,  which 
i*  essential  to  mature  them. 

If  seed  be  sown  much  before  the  middle  of  May,  or  so  early  that  the 
plants  arrive  at  full  growth  in  the  heat  of  summer,  and  thereby  become 
stunted,  they  generally  button,  instead  of  formingj>erfect  heads  of  flower*, 
and  are  consequently  of  no  use  but  for  cattle. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States,  latej  planting  of  Broccoli  and 
Cauliflower,  succeeds  better  than  early,  because  the  winters  are  calcu- 
lated to  mature  these  vejretables,'from  their  not  being  subject  to  injury 
by  slight  frost,  in  a  late  eta^e  of  their  growth. 

4* 


42  CAULIFLOWER. 

As-  soon  as  they  have  taken  root,  give  the  ground  a  deep 
hoeing,  and  repeat  this  two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of 
their  growth,  drawing  some  earth  around  their  stems. 

Some  of  the  Cape  Broccoli,  if  attended  to  as  directed, 
will  come  to  perfection  early  in  September  and  [in  October; 
the  other  kinds  will  produce  their  heads  in  regular  succes- 
sion throughout  the  winter  and  spring  months,  according  to 
their  different  degrees  of  earliness,  provided  an  artificial 
climate  be  provided  for  them.  These,  of  course,  with 
whatever  may  remain  of  the  Cape  Broccoli,  will  have  to 
be  taken  up  early  in  October,  and  laid  in  carefully  with 
the  roots  and  stems  covered  with  earth  as  far  as  their  lower 
leaves.  Those  who  have  not  a  place  provided,  may  keep 
a  few  in  frames,  or  in  a  light  cellar;  but  every  gardener 
and  country  gentleman  should  have  suitable  places  erected 
for  a  vegetable  that  yields  such  a  delicious  repast,  at  a  time 
when  other  luxuries  of  the  garden  are  comparatively  out  of 
our  reach. 


CAULIFLOWER. 

CHOUFLEUR.     Brassica  oleracea  botryth, 

VARIETIES. 

Early  White  |  Late  White. 

Hardy  Red>  or  Purple  Cauliflower. 

THIS  is  a  first-rate  vegetable :  to  obtain  which,  great  pains 
must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  its  growth,  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold  being  very  much  against  it:  which  circum- 
stance  accounts  for  good  Cauliflowers  being  scarcely  attain- 
able in  unpropitious  seasons,  and  which  the  novice  falsely 
attributes  to  defectiveness  of  the  seed. 

To  produce  early  Cauliflower,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
between  the  sixteenth  and  twenty-fourth  of  September,  in 
a  bed  of  clean  rich  earth.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks  after- 
wards, the  plants  should  be  pricked  out  into  another  bed, 
at  the  distance  of  four  inches  from  each  other  every  way} 
this  bed  should  be  encompassed  with  garden  frames,  covered 


CAULIFLOWEH.  43 

with  glazed  sashes,  and  boards  or  shutters ;  the  plants  should 
be  watered  and  shaded  a  few  days  till  they  have  taken 
root ;  they  will  afterwards  require  light  and  air  every  mild 
day  throughout  the  winter;  but  the  outsides  of  the  frames 
must  he  so  lined  and  secured,  and  the  tops  of  the  beds  so 
covered  as  to  keep  out  all  frost. 

The  plants  should  be  well  attended  to  until  the  time  of 
transplanting  in  the  spring;  and  these  who  have  not  hand 
or  bell  gfasses,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  set  some  out  by  the 
latter  end  of  March,  should  have  a  frame  ready  about  the 
last  week  in  February,  in  order  that  they  may  be  trans- 
planted to  the  distance  of  eight  or  nine  inches  apart;  this 
would  prevent  them  from  buttoning,  or  growing  up  weak  ; 
if  this  be  not  done,  some  of  the  strongest  plants  should  be 
taken  out  of  the  beds  and  planted  in  flower  pots,  which 
nray  be  afterwards  placed  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse,  until 
the  weather  be  warm  and  settled,  which  may  be  expected 
soon  after  the  middle  of  April.  They  should  be  then 
turned  out  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  and  transplanted  into 
a  bed  of  the  richest  earth  in  the  garden,  at  the  distance  of 
two  feet  and  a  half  from  each  other  every  way ;  the 
residue  may  be  taken  up  from  the  frame  the  last  week  in 
April,  or  earlier,  if  the  season  proves  rnild,  by  means  of  a 
garden  trowel,  and  transplanted  as  above. 

The  plants  should  be  afterwards  well  cultivated,  by  hoeing 
the  ground  deep  around  them,  and  bringing  some  earth  gradu- 
ally up  to  their  stems,  so  as  to  push  them  forward  before  the 
approach  of  warm  weather.  When  the  soil  has  been  drawn 
up  to  the  plants  some  little  time,  fork  the  ground  between 
the  rows  lightly  over,  which  will  promote  their  growth.  They 
should  be  liberally  supplied  with  water  in  dry  weather; 
those  out  of  flower  twice  a  week,  and  those  in,  every  other 
day,  which  will  contribute  to  their  producing  very  large  heads. 
As  the  flower  heads  appear,  the  larger  leaves  should  be 
broken  down  over  them,  to  defend  them  from  the  sun  and 
rain,  in  order  that  the  heads  or  pulps  may  be  close,  und  of 
their  natural  colour. 


CAULIFLOWER. 

Plants  from  the  autumn  sowing  are  generally  allowed'  to* 
succeed  best;  but  good  Cauliflowers  are  sometimes  produced 
from  seed  sown  in  a  hot-bed  towards  the  end  of  January,  or 
early  in  February.  Great  pains  must  be  taken  to  have  the 
bed  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed  ;  when  the  plants 
are  up,  they  must  have  air  every  mild  day,  and  as  they 
progress  in  growth^  they  should  have  as  much  air  as  possi- 
ble, consistent  with  their  preservation  ;  but  the  beds  must 
be  kept  covered  up  every  night,  as  long  as  there  is  any  dan- 
ger of  frost.  When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high, 
they  must  be  pricked  out  three  or  four  inches  apart  into 
another  bed,  and  by  the  latter  end  of  April  they  may  be 
transplanted  into  the  ground,  and  treated  in  every  respect 
the  same  as  the  other.  These  plants,  if  well  managed,  will 
succeed  very  well,  and  those  that  do  not  flower  by  June, 
may  make  good  heads  in  autumn. 

In  the  early  part  of  May,  Cauliflower  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  open  border,  in  drills,  as  recommended  for  Broccoli, 
and  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  four  thousand 
good  plants.  These  plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  June, 
and  transplanted  into  good  ground  early  in  July,  to  flower 
in  Autumn  :  those  that  are  not  likely  to  flower  by  the  last  of 
October,  should  be  taken  up  and  provided  for  in  the  manner 
recommended  for  Broccoli. 

Cauliflower,  and  also  Broccoli,  should  be  gathered  while 
the  pulp  is  close  and  perfect.  After  having  trimmed  ofl* 
some  of  their  outside  leaves,  let  them  be  boiled  in  plenty  of 
water  seasoned  with  salt,  taking  care  to  skim  the  pot,  and 
also  to  ease  the  cover,  so  as  not  to  confine  the  steam.  Take 
them  up  as  soon  as  the  fork  will  enter  the  stems  easily, 
which  will  be  in  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  according  to 
their  size  and  age;  drain  them  so  as  to  make  them  suscep- 
tible of  absorbing  a  due  proportion  of  gravy,  melted  butter,., 
&c.  This  renders  them,  a  palatable  and.  dainty  dish. 


45 

CABBAGE. 

CHOU.    Brassica  olcracea^  etc. 

TARIET1ES. 


Early  May. 
Early  Hop 3 
Early  Dwarf  Dutch. 
Early  York. 
Early  Sugarloaf. 
Early  Emperor. 
Early  Wellington. 
Early  Heart-shaped. 
Early  London  M  arket 
Early  London  Battersea. 


Late  Battersea,  or  Drumhead. 
Large  Bergen,  or  American. 
Late  Flat  Germm. 
Large  Green  Glazed. 
Large  Late  Drumhead. 
Red  Dutch,  for  Pickling. 
Green  Globe  Savoy. 
Large  Cape  Savoy. 
Green  Curled  Savoy. 
Turnip-rooted,  in  varieties. 


The  .early  sorts  of  Spring  Cabbage  may  be  raised  in 
various  ways.  Some  sow  the  seeds  between  the  tenth  and 
twenty-fourth  of  September,  pricked  out  and  managed  the 
same  as  Cauliflower  plants,  only  that  they  are  more  hardy, 
and  may  sometimes  be  kept  through  the  winter,  without 
sashes. 

Some  prefer  sowing  the  seed  in  a  cold-bed,  covered  by  a 
garden  frame,  with  sashes.  If  this  frame  be  placed  on  a 
warm  border,  and  kept  free  from  frost,  and  the  seed  of  the 
early  kinds  sown  the  latter  end  of  January,  or  early  in 
February,  these  plants  will  be  better  than  those  raised  in  the 
fall;  as  they  will  not  be  so  liable  to  run  to  seed,  and  they 
will  be  more  hardy,  and  full  as  early  as  those  raised  in  hot- 
beds in  the  spring. 

Or,  if  a  heap  of  fresh  horse  manure  be  deposited  on  the 
ground  intended  for  the  raising  of  early  plants  before  the 
frost  sets  in — the  same  may  be  removed  some  mild  day  in 
January  or  February,  and  temporary  frames  made  by 
driving  stakes  in  the  ground,  and  nailing  planks  or  slabs 
thereto.  The  ground  being  then  dug,  the  seed  sown,  a»d 
covered  up  with  sashes,  will  soon  produce  plants  in  perfec- 
tion. The  frames  should  be  well  protected,  by  placing  the 
manure  around  them,  and  covering  the  tops  with  mats, boards, 
&.c.  as  directed  for  hot-beds  in  the  calendar  for  February  and 
March. 

It  is  customary  with  Gardeners  about  New-York,  to 
raise  their  plants  in  hot-beds.  In  order  to  do  this,  the  beds 


46  CABBAGE. 

should  be  prepared,  as  directed  in  a  future  page  of  this  hook, 
(see  Index,)  so  as  to  be  ready  to  receive  the  seed  by  the  latter 
end  of  February,  or  early  in  March.  Plants  thus  produced, 
as  well  as  those  raised  as  before  directed,  will  be  fit  to  trans- 
plant about  the  middle  of  April,  and  should  be  carefully 
planted,  with  a  suitable  dibble,  in  good  ground,  from  six- 
teen inches  to  two  feet  apart,  according  to  size  and  kind  : 
these,  by  being  hoed  often,  will  produce  good  Cabbages  in 
June.  If  seeds  of  the  large  early  kinds  be  sown  in  a  warm 
border,  early  in  April,  they  will  produce  plants  fit  to  trans- 
plant in  May,  which  will  make  good  Cabbages  for  summer 
use. 

The  seed  of  Red  Cabbage  may  be  sown  towards  the  end' 
of  April  or  early  in  May,  and  that  of  Savoys  and  late  Cab- 
bage in  general,  may  be  sown  at  two  or  three  different  times, 
between  the  tenth  and  twenty-fifth  of  May,  in  fresh  rich 
ground.  The  young  plants  will  require  to  be  watched  at 
this  season  of  the  year,  and  if  they  are  attacked  by  insects, 
recourse*  must  be  had  to  the  ingredients  recommended  in 
the  general  directions;  these,  if  used  every  evening  until  the 
plants  get  strong,  will  bring  them  forward  for  transplanting 
in  the  second  or  third  week  in, July. 

The  most  certain  way  of  raising  good  strong  plants  in  the 
summer  season,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  a  moderately  shaded 
border^  in  shallow  drills  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apart. 
One  ounce  of  seed  sown  in  this  manner,  will  occupy  a  bor- 
der of  about  four  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and 
produce  about  four  thousand  stout  plants;  whereas  if  seed 
be  sown  broadcast,  as  is  the  usual  custom,  two  ounces  of 
seed  may  not  produce  so  many  good  plants,  as  the  one  ounce 
on  the  plan  recommended. 

The  Bergen,  and  other  large  kinds,  should  be  transplanted 
in  rows  thirty  inches  asunder,  and  the  plants  about  two  feet 
apart  in  the  rows  ;  the  Savoys  and  smaller  sorts  may  be 
placed  from  four  to  six  inches  nearer  every  way.  Cabbage 
succeeds  best  in  a  fresh  rich  soil,  and  the  ground  should  be 
deeply  hoed,  at  least  three  times,  during  their  growth. 

Ihe  Brassica  Rapa,  or  Turnip  Cabbage,  produces  its; 


COLEWORT,  OR  COLLARDS.  47 

bulb  or  protuberance,  on  the  stems  above  ground,, immedi- 
ately under  the  leaves.  It  is  eatable  when  young,  or  about 
the  size  of  a  garden  turnip. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  April  or  May,  and  the  plants 
afterwards  treated  the  same  as  Cabbage,  only  that  in  earth- 
ing up  the  plants,  you  must  be  careful  not  to  cover  the 
globular  part. 

They  are  much  more  hardy  than  Turnips.  In  England 
the  bulbs  often  grow  to  upwards  of  twenty  inches  in  circum- 
ference, and  weigh  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds.  They  are 
cultivated  for  the  feeding  of  cows  and  sheep,  as  well  as  for 
table  use  ;  in  either  case,  they  treat  them  as  they  do  cabba- 
ges, or  sow  them  like  Turnips,  and  afterwards  hoe  them  out 
to  proper  distances. 

The  Brassica  Napus,  or  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage,  has  an 
oblong  thick  root  in  the  form  of  a  Winter  Radish  ;  it  is  ex- 
tremely hardy,  and  will  survive  very  hard  frosts  ;  the  seeds 
should  be  sown  in  rich  ground,  and  treated  in  every  respect 
as  Turnips,  observing  to  thin  the  plants  with  a  hoe  to  the 
distance  of  sixteen  inches  apart.  Their  roots  will  be  much 
larger  and  better  when  treated  in  this  way,  than  if  trans- 
planted. 

The  Brassica  Napus,  variety  esculenta,  is  sometimes  cul- 
tivated as  a  salad  herb.  It  is  held  in  great  esteem  by  the 
French  as  a  culinary  vegetable,  and  is  called  the  Navet,  or 
French  Turnip.  In  France,  as  well  as  in  Germany,  few 
great  dinners  are  served  up  without  it,  in  one  shape  or  other. 


COLEWORT,  OR  COLLARDS. 
CHOU  VERT.     Brassica  oleracea. 

This  is  a  species  of  Cabbage  which  is  eaten  when  young; 
it  so  nearly  resembles  the  early  kinds  of  Cabbage,  that  it  is 
seldom  cultivated.  The  English  frequently  sow  [the  seed 
of  early  heading  kinds  of  Cabbage,  as  a  substitute,  which 
being  done  at  different  seasons,  enables  them  to  procure  a 
supply  of  fresh  greens  from  their  gardens  every  day  in  the 


48  CARDOOXS. 

year.  This  is  not  attainable  here,  on  account  of  the  ex- 
tremes of  heat  and  cold  ;  but  Collards  would  prove  very 
valuable  and  acceptable,  in  the  event  of  an  unfavourable 
season  for  fall  Cabbage. 

If  the  seeds  of  Early  York,  Early  Dutch,  or  other  early 
kinds  of  Cabbage,  be  sown  in  June,  July  and  August,  and 
transplanted  as  they  become  fit,  into  good  ground,  from  fif- 
teen to  eighteen  inches  apart,  the  first  planting  would  make 
good  heads  for  fall  use  ;  and  the  plants  of  late  sowings,  if 
transplanted  in  September  and  October,  in  a  warm  border, 
would  produce  tender  sweet-eating  greens  for  use  in  the 
early  part  of  winter;  the  latter  plantings  may  be  placed 
ten  or  twelve  inches,  plant  from  plant.  These  could  be 
easily  sheltered  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  without 
being  taken  up.  The  cultivation  of  Collards  is  well  adapted 
to  our  Southern  States,  as  they  there  need  no  protection  in 
winter. 

CARDOONS. 

CARDON.     Cynara  cardunculus* 

THE  Cardoon  Artichoke,  a  native  of  Candia,  is  much 
cultivated  in  Europe  for  culinary  purposes,  such  as  for 
salads,  soups,  stews,  &c. 

The  stems  of  the  leaves  being  thick  and  crisp,  are  the 
eatable  parts,  after  being  blanched.  They  are  in  perfection 
in  Autumn  and  Winter. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth  in  the 
month  of  April;  and  one  ounce  will  produce  about  six 
hundred  plants:  when  the  plants  are  up  strong,  they  should 
be  thinned  to  four  or  five  inches  distance,  to  prevent  their 
becoming  weak.  They  may  be  transplanted  in  June,  at 
the  distance  of  four  feet  from  one  another  every  way  ;  ob- 
serve before  planting,  to  dress  their  tops  and  roots  the  sam« 
as  Celery.  As  they  advance  in  growth,  they  are  to  be 
earthed  up  for  blanching,  keeping  the  leaves  close  together  ; 
this  may  be  done  with  bass  or  matting,  as  practised  with 
Endive;  they  are  •after  wards  to  be  earthed  up  gradually 


CARROT.  49 

from  time  to  time,  until  whitened  to  a  sufficient  height.  As 
winter  approaches,  Cardoons  must  be  taken  up  and  laid 
away  like  Celery,  or  they  may  be  preserved  with  sand  in  a 
cellar. 


CARROT. 
CAEOTTE.     Daucus  carota. 

VARIETIES. 

Early  Orange.  ~  (  Lonz  Lemon- coloured. 

Long  Orange.  g  •?  Blood  Red, 

Altringham.  ,5  (  Long  White. 

THE  Carrot  is  a  native  of  Britain,  and  grows  by  the 
road  sides,  in  many  parts.  As  a  culinary  vegetable  it  is 
much  used  in  soups  and  stews,  and  forms  a  dish  with  boiled 
beef,  &c.  The  coarse  sorts  are  cultivated  as  fodder  for  cows, 
vsheep,  oxen,  and  horses,  and  are  considered  profitable,  as 
they  frequently  yield  upwards  of  four  hundred  bushels  to  an 
acre. 

For  the  garden,  the  Early  Orange  should  be  cultivated 
for  Spring  and  Summer  use;  but  the  Long  Orange  and 
Altringham  are  more  suitable  for  main  crops,  on  account 
of  their  bright  orange  colour,  as  well  as  for  their  great 
size  and  length.  They  grow  to  great  perfection  in  a 
rich  loamy  soil,  and  may  be  raised  in  drills  drawn  about  one 
inch  deep,  and  twelve  inches  asunder.  A  small  bed  may  be 
planted  the  latter  end  of  March  for  an  early  crop,  and  from 
that  time  to  the  end  of  May,  for  successive  crops :  but  the 
principal  crop  should  not  be  sown  too  soon,  as  the  early 
plantings  are  apt  to  produce  seed  stalks,  and  consequently 
stringy  and  useless  roots. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  late  carrots,  is  that 
which  hasbeen  well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  requires 
no  fresh  manure.  If  the  seed  be  sown  early  in  June,  and  the 
plants  thinned  out  to  the  distance  of  five  or  six  inches  from 
each  other  when  young,  and  kept  hoed,  they  would  yield  an 
abundance  of  fine  roots  for  winter  and  spring  use,  by  being 
taken  up  in  Autumn,  and  preserved  either  in  sand  in  a  cellar, 

5 


50  CELERY, 

or  graves  covered  up  in  a  garden,  as  directed  in  the  calen-' 
dar  for  November. 

Although  Carrot  seed  is  naturally  small  and  light,  it  sel- 
dom fails  to  vegetate  in  favourable  seasons ;  it,  therefore, 
need  not  be  sown  too  thick  in  ground  not  apt  to  produce 
weeds.  If  a  root  could  be  insured  to  grow  unmolested  in 
erery  instance  where  a  seed  may  be  deposited,  two  pounds 
would  be  more  than  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  land  ;  but  gar- 
deners generally  use  four  or  five  pounds  to  the  acre,  in 
order  that  the  rows  may  be  more  easily  traced  in  the 
event  of  a  luxuriant  growth  of  weeds.  To  avoid  risking  an 
unequal  crop  in  small  gardens,  half  an  ounce  of  seed  should 
be  allotted  for  every  pole,  perch,  or  rod,  or  twenty  ounces 
for  a  rood  of  land.  On  light  ground,  the  Use  of  a  roller 
would  be  beneficial  in  dry  weather,  excess  of  which  is  detri- 
mental to  the  germination  of  Carrot,  as  well  as  of  all  other1 
light  seeds. 

CELERY. 
CELERI.     Apium  graveolens. 

VARIETIES. 

White  Solid.  I  New  Silver  Giant. 

Red  Coloured  Solid.  North's  Giant  Red. 

Ccleriac,  or  Turnip-rooted. 

Tins  vegetable,  so  much  esteemed  as  a  salad,  is  known 
in  its  wild  state  by  the  name  of  Smallage  ;  and  is  found  in 
great  abundance  by  the  sides  of  ditches,  and  near  the  sea- 
coast  of  Britain,  The  effects  of  cultivation  are  here  stri- 
kingly exhibited,  in  producing  from  a  rank,  coarse  weed,  the 
mild  and  sweet  stalks  of  the  Celery.  This  circumstance 
should  stimulate  the  young  gardener  to  aim  at  improvements 
in  the  cultivation  of  plants  in  general. 

It  is  customary  with  some  gardeners  to  raise  their  early 
plants  in  hot-beds  ;  but  as  plants  thus  raised  are  apt  to  pro- 
duce seed  stalks,  it  is  much  safer  to  cultivate  them  in  cold 
beds,  prepared  as  directed  for  the  raising  of  early  Cabbage 
plants.  The  seed  for  a  general  crop  may  be  sown  the  last 


CELERY.  51 

week  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  in  rich  mellow  ground, 
and  in  a  situation  where  the  plants  could  be  protected  from 
the  parching  heat  of  a  summer  sun  (a  border  against  a  north 
aspect  is  the  most  suitable.)  Some  sow  the  seed  broadcast, 
but  the  plants  will  be  much  stouter  if  raised  in  drills.  The 
drills  may  be  half  an  inch  deep,  and  six  inches  apart,  so  that 
a  small  hoe  can  be  worked  between  the  rows  ;  and  if  pro- 
perly attended  to,  every  ounce  of  seed  so  sown,  will  produce 
ten  thousand  strong  plants  or  more. 

The  early  sown  plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  a  nur- 
sery bed  of  rich  earth,  as  soon  as  they  are  two  or  three 
inches  long,  there  to  remain  about  a  month,  after  which  they 
will  be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  trenches. 

Choose  for  this  purpose  a  piece  of  rich  ground,  in  an  open 
exposure,  mnrk  out  the  trenches  by  line,  ten  or  twelve  inches 
wide,  and  allow  the  space  of  three  feet  between  them,  which 
will  be  sufficient  for  the  early  plantations.  Dig  each  trench 
a  moderate  spade  deep,  laying  the  dug  out  earth  equally  on 
each  side,  between  the  trenches;  put  three  inches  deep  of 
very  rotten  dung  in  the  bottom  of  each  trench,  then  pare  the 
sides  and  dig  the  dung  and  parings  with  an  inch  or  two  of 
the  loose  mould  at  the  bottom,  incorporating  all  well  toge- 
ther, and  put  in  the  plants.* 

Previous  to  planting,  trim  the  plants,  by  cutting  off  the 
long  straggling  leaves,  and  also  the  ends  of  the  roots.  Let 
them  be  planted  with  a  dibble,  in  single  rows,  along  the 
middle  of  each  trench,  five  or  six  inches  between  plant  and 
plant ;  as  soon  as  they  are  planted,  give  them  a  plentiful 


*  Some  gardeners  are  accustomed  to  cultivate  Celery  on  the  level  ground; 
others,  after  making  their  trenches  in  the  usual  way,  have  gone  (o  the 
expense  of  carting  peculiarsoil  from  a  distance,  with  which  they  reple- 
nished their  trenches  until  nearly  full.  Those  who  have  pursued  th# 
latter  plan,  say  that  they  were  rewarded  for  their  trouble  by  gathering 
roots  of  superior  size  and  quality  ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  would  prove 
profitable  to  practice  this  plan  on  an  extensive  scale.  It  may,  however,  be 
judicious  in  those  gardeners  whose  subsoil,  or  under  stratum,  is  inferior,  or 
il]  adapted  for  the  cultivation  of  Celery,  to  cultivate  it  in  shallow  drill.*,  or 
furrows  worked  out  with  a  plough,  by  which  means  they  may  secure  good 
«.»il  to  plant  in,  and  also  to  earth  up  with.  In  such  cases  the  rows  must  bo 
from  four  to  five  fret  apart,  and  frequent  ploughing  between  them  would 
promote  the  growth  of  the  plants. 


52  CELERY. 

watering,  and  let  them  be  shaded  until  they  strike  root  and 
begin  to  grow. 

The  main  crops  may  be  planted  in  the  same  way,  but  in 
trenches  four  feet  distant  from  each  other,  and  an  inch  or 
two  further  from  plant  to  plant ;  or  in  beds  made  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner,  which  for  the  ease  of  preserving  the  plants 
in  winter,  will  be  found  extremely  convenient,  besides  a 
greater  quantity  can  be  raised  on  a  given  piece  of  ground. 

Lay  out  the  ground  into  beds  of  four  feet  wide,  whh  alleys 
between,  of  three  feet ;  dig  the  beds  a  spade  deep,  throwing 
the  earth  on  the  alleys:  when  done,  lay  four  or  five  inches 
of  good  well-rotted  dung  all  over  the  bottom  of  the  beds,  dig 
and  incorporate  it  with  the  loose  earth,  and  cover  the  whole 
with  an  inch  or  two  of  earth  from  the  alleys ;  plant  four 
rows  in  each  bed  at  equal  distances,  and  from  six  to  eight 
inches  apart  in  the  rows  ;  after  which,  give  them  a  plentiful 
watering,  and  shade  them. 

The  plants  must  be  hoed  occasionally,  until  grown  of 
sufficient  size  for  earthing,  which  is  done  with  the  assistance 
of  boards,  by  laying  them  along  the  rows,  to  support  the 
leaves  while  you  are  putting  in  the  earth  from  the  alleys, 
find  removing  them  as  you  progress  in  the  business. 

The  earthing  should  never  be  done  when  the  plants  are 
wet,  as  this  is  apt  to  make  the  Celery  rusty,  but  should  be 
Informed  gradually  in  fine  weather  as  the  plants  progress 
in  growth,  repeating  the  earthing  every  two  weeks;  at  which 
time  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  up  all  the  leaves  neatly, 
and  not  to  bury  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  When  they  are 
grown  two  feet  high,  and  well  blanched,  they  are  fit  for  the 
table. 

As  Celery  will  grow  three  or  four  feet  high  in  one  season, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  delay  the  planting  of  that  which  is 
intended  for  winter  use  until  the  latter  end  of  July,  but  the 
trenches  should  always  be  got  ready  soon  enough  to  avoid 
a  serious  drought,  which  often  delays  the  plantings  till  too 
late  in  the  season.  The  blanching  of  Celery  for  winter  use 
may  be  delayed  until  October. 


CORN  SALAD,  OR    FETTICtJS.  53 

By  market  gardeners  who  raise  Celerj  on  a  large  scale, 
the  trenches  may  be  worked  out  with  a  plough,  and  finished 
with  a  spade  or  hoe.  The  ground  may  be  also  ploughed 
between  each  row  of  Celery  previous  to  earthing  it  up ;  this 
irill  save  much  labour. 

The  Celeriac,  or  Turnip-rooted,  may  be  planted  either 
on  level  ground  or  in  shallow  drills ;  the  root  of  it  swells 
like  a  Turnip,  and  may  be  preserved  in  sand  through  the 
winter.  The  French  and  Germans  cut  in  slices,  and  soak 
it  a  few  hours  in  vinegar ;  by  such  simple  preparation,  it 
becomes  meliew  as  a  Pine  Apple,  and  affords  a  delicious 
and  very  nourishing  repast. 


CORN  SALAD,  OR  FETTICUS. 

MACHE  ou   DOUCETTE.      Valeriana  locusta. 

v  ARtET  y . — Olitoria. 

THIS  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  cornfields  of  Eng- 
land, hence  it  is  called  Corn  Salad,  and  from  its  being 
sufficiently  hardy  to  stand  the  winter,  it  has  acquired  the 
appellation  of  Lamb's  Lettuce,  from  its  affording  an  early 
pasturage.  It  is  cultivated  as  a  salad  for  winter  and  early 
spring  use.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  rich  clean  ground,  the 
latter  end  of  August  or  early  in  September. 

Some  gardeners  sow  the  seed  in  beds  formed  four  or  five 
feet  wide,  with  paths  between  each  bed,  jnst  sufficient  to 
admit  of  room  for  hand-weeding  ;  but  it  will  vegetate  more 
freely  if  sown  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  provided  it  be 
carefully  covered.  The  drills  may  be  about  six  inches  apart 
just  sufficient  to  admit  a  small  hoe  to  work  between  the 
rows ;  as  if  the  plants  be  not  cleared  of  all  weeds  while 
young,  they  will  be  more  plague  than  profit. 

Fetlicus  must  be  covered  up  with  straw  at  the  approach 
of  severe  weather,  to  preserve  it  in  good  condition  for  use 
in  the  early  part  of  the  ensuing  spring,  as  that  is  the  season 
which  most  amply  remunerates  the  cultivator. 

5* 


54  CRESS,  AND  WATER  CRESS. 

The  seed  ofFetticus  is  small  and  light,  but  it  will  admit 
of  being  sown  thick,  say  at  the  rate  of  from  four  to  six 
pounds  to  the  acre  of  land. 


CRESS. 

CRESSON.     Lapidium  sativum. 

VARIETIES. 

Curled,  or  Peppergrass.  |  Broad-leaved  Garden. 

,  CRESS  is  a  small  salad  herb,  and  is  generally  used  with 
Lettuce,  White  Mustard,  Rape,  Chervil,  &c.  It  may  be  sown 
•in  little  drills  very  thick,  as  should  Salad  seeds  in  general, 
and  cut  before  it  comes  into  rough  leaf.  A  small  quantity 
in  the  salad  season,  which  is  Spring  and  Autumn,  may  be 
sown  every  week  in- rich  ground  free  from  weeds. 

CRESS-WATER. 

CRESSON  DE  FONTAINE.     Sisymbrium   nasturtium. 

THE  Water  Cress  is  a  creeping  amphibious  perennial,  and 
is  grown  very  extensively  for  the  London  markets.  Loudon 
says,  in  his  Encyclopedia  of  Gardening,  that  "The  most 
suitable  description  of  water  is  a  clear  stream,  not  more 
than  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  running  over  sand  or  gravel; 
the  least  favourable,  deep  still  water,  oramuddy  bottom.  It 
is  highly  advantageous  to  make  the  plantations  in  newly 
risen  spring  water,  as  the  plants  do  not  only  thrive  better  in 
it,  but  in  consequence  of  its  being  rarely  frozen,  they  gene- 
rally continue  in  vegetation,  and  in  a  good  state  for  gather- 
ing, through  the  whole  winter  season.  The  plants  are 
disposed  in  rows  parallel  with  the  course  of  the  stream, 
about  eighteen  inches  apart.  When  these  plants  begin  to 
grow  in  water  one  inch  and  a  half  deep,  they  soon  check  the 
current  so  as  to  raise  the  water  to  the  height  of  three  inches 
above  the  plants,  which  is  considered  the  most  favourable 


ctrcuiUBER.  55 

circumstance  in  which  they  can  be  placed.  It  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  have  a  constant  current,  as  where  there  is  any 
obstruction  to  the  stream,  the  plants  cease  to  thrive.  After 
they  have  been  cut  about  three  times,  they  begin  to  stock* 
and  then  the  oftenerthey  are  cut  the  better." 


CUCUMBER. 

CONCOMBRE.     Cucumis  scttwus,  etc* 

VARIETIES. 

Early  Frame.  Long  Green  Southgate, 

Early  Green  Cluster.  Long  green  Turkey. 


Early  Green  Table. 
Long  Prickly. 
Short  Prickly. 


Long  White  Turkey. 

White  S pined. 

West  India,  or  Gherkin- 


THE  Cucumis  sativus,  or  common  Cucumber,  is  a  native 
of  the  East  Indies,  and  of  nearly  as  great  antiquity  as  the 
vine.  It  was  introduced  into  England  in  1573,  and  is  ex- 
tensively cultivated  in  forcing  frames,  and  in  the  open  air. 
In  March,  they  are  sold  in  the  London  markets  for  a  guinea 
a  dozen  ;  and  in  August  and  September,  for  one  penny  per 
dozen. 

As  Cucumbers  are  much  used  in  New- York,  it 
should  be  an  object  with  gardeners  to  have  them  in  the 
market  early  ;  directions  for  raising  them  out  of  the  ordi- 
nary season,  are  therefore  given  in  a  future  page,  under  the 
head  forcing  vegetables,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 
Cucumbers  may  be  raised  in  the  open  ground,  by  planting 
seed  the  first  week  of  May,  in  hills  four  feet  apart ;  or 
if  the  ground  be  light,  basins  formed  an  inch  below  the  level 
of  the  surface  would  be  beneficial.*  Previous  to  planting, 
the  ground  should  be  prepared  by  incorporating  a  shovelful 
of  rotten  dung,  with  the  earth  in  each  hill,  after  which  four 
or  five  seeds  may  be  planted  half  an  inch  deep.  One  ounce 


*  The  term  hill  is  frequently  made  use  of  by  gardeners  and  farmers, 
to  designate  a  situation  allotted  for  a  given  number  of  seeds,  whereas, 
such  seeds  are  more  frequently  deposited  below  the  level  of  the  surface 
than  above  it ;  yet,  as  the  plants  progress  in  growth,  hills  are  frequently 
formed  around  them,  which  makes  the  term  applicable,  or  rather 
reconciles  the  apparent  contradiction. 


56  CHITES,  OR  CIVtfS* 

of  good  sound  seed  is  sufficient  for  two  hundred  hills  artcf 
upwards. 

Cucumbers  are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  a  yellow  fly, 
which  sometimes  devours  young  plants  ;  these  and  other 
insects  may  be  killed  by  sowing  tobacco  dust,  soot,  pow- 
dered charcoal,  and  the  like,  round  about  the  vines  when 
they  first  come  up.  After  this  is  done,  the  plants  may  be 
thinned  to  two  or  three  in  a  hill,  and  the  ground  carefully 
hoed,  drawing  a  little  earth  round  them  at  the  same  time. 
The  vines  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  if  the 
weather  proves  dry,  a  gentle  watering  now  and  then, 
given  in  the  evening,  will  be  of  considerable  service. 

Picklers  may  be  raised  by  planting  the  seed  at  any  time 
in  July.  When  the  vines  begin  to  bear,  they  should  be 
looked  over,  and  the  fruit  gathered  as  fast  as  it  becomes  fit, 
as  the  plant  will  cease  to  bear  much,  if  the  fruit  be  permitted 
to  get  yellow* 

CHIVES,  OR  CIVES. 

CIVETTE.     Allium  schcenoprasum. 

THIS  is  a  small  species  of  Onion,  growing  in  large  tufts  ; 
they  are  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  roots,  and  may  be 
planted  either  in  Spring  or  Autumn,  in  rows  ten  or  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  the  bulbs  three  or  four  inches  apart  in  the 
rows  ;  they  will  soon  take  root,  and  increase  very  fast  into 
large  bunches  of  bulbs.  They  make  handsome  edging  to 
beds  or  borders. 


EGG-PLANT. 

MELONGENE  ou  AUBERGINE.     Solanum  melongena. 

VARIETIES. 

Purple,  for  cocking.          |          White,  for  ornament. 

Seed  of  the  Purple  Egg-plant  may  be  sown  in  a  hot- 
bed about  the  first  of  March,  and  the  sashes  kept  down 
close  until  the  plants  come  up,  after  which  a  little  air  may 


EGG   PLANT.  67 

be  given  in  the  heat  of  the  day.*  Towards  the  middle  of 
May,  if  settled  warm  weather,  the  plants  should  be  set  out 
from  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  apart,  in  a  rich  warm 
piece  of  ground,  and  if  kept  clean,  and  a  little  earth  be 
drawn  up  to  their  stems,  when  about  a  foot  high,  they  will 
produce  plenty  of  fruit. 

Plants  of  the  white  variety  may  be  raised  in  the  same 
manner,  and  transplanted  into  pots  in  May ;  or  if  some  of 
the  seed  be  sown  in  a  warm  situation  the  first  week  in  May, 
these  may  come  to  perfection  in  the  course  of  the  summer. 
This  variety,  though  generally  cultivated  for  ornament,  is 
good  when  cooked. 

As  Egg  Plants  will  not  grow  in  the  open  ground  until 
settled  warm  weather,  and  are  apt  to  perish  from  being 
transplanted  too  early,  the  gardener  should  be  provided 
with  small  pots,  in  order  that  the  plants  maybe  transplanted 
therein  early  in  May,  and  placed  in  a  frame,  there  to  remain 
until  the  first  week  in  June,  at  which  time  if  they  are  turned 
out  and  planted,  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  they  will 
soon  take  mot  and  grow  freely. 

Select  the  fruit  when  at  maturity  ;  cut  it  into  slices,  and 
parboil  it  in  a  stewpan  ;  when  softened,  drain  off  the  water  ; 
it  may  then  be  fried  in  batter  made  with  wheaten  flour  and 
an  egg,  or  in  fresh  butter  with  bread  grated  fine,  seasoned 
before  it  is  put  in  the  pan,  with  pepper,  salt,  thyme,  and 
such  other  herbs  as  may  best  suit  the  palate.  Some  use 
Marjoram,  Summer  Savory,  Parsley,  Onion,  &c. 


*  Egg-Plant  seed  will  not  vegetate  freely  without  substantial  heat ; 
but  with  proper  management,  upwards  of  four  thousand  plants  may  be 
raised  from  an  ounce  of  seed.  If  these  plants  get  the  least  chilled  in 
progress  of  growth,  they  seldom  recover;  it  is,  therefore,  importanl 
that  the  frame  allotted  for  them,  be  placed  over  a  well-regulated  hot-bed, 
and  partitioned  off,  so  that  the  sash  can  be  kept  down  over  the  plants 
in  cool  weather. 

Some  Gardeners  raise  Egg-plants  in  the  same  frame  with  Cabbage 
and  such  other  half  hardy  plants  as  require  air  every  mild  day ;  by  such 
management,  one  or  the  other  must  suffer  for  want  of  suitable  alimenfr— 
Heat  being  the  principal  food  of  tender  plants,  and  Aif  that  of  themora 
hardy  species. 


58 

ENDIVE,  OR  SUCCORY. 
CHICOREE  DBS  JARDINS.     Cichorium  endiva^  etc. 

VARIETIES. 

Gr-'fn  Curled  Gold*  n  Yellow. 

White  Curled.  |          Broad-leaved  Batuvian. 

THE  Cichorium  endiva  is  a  native  of  China  and  Japan, 
and  is  much  used  in  salads  and  stews,  and  as  a  garnish  for 
the  table. 

The  proper  kind  of  seed  for  early  sowing,  is  the  Green 
Curled.  A  small  quantity  of  this  may  be  sown  at  different 
times  in  April  and  May,  for  those  who  would  have  it  early. 
These  crops  will  be  very  apt  to  run  to  seed ;  for  this  reason, 
it  will  be  best  to  delay  the  sowings  of  seed  for  general  crops 
until  June  or  July.  If  a  small  quantity  of  each  esteemed 
variety  be  sown  two  or  three  times  in  these  months,  they  will 
produce  a  plentiful  supply  for  use  in  Autumn  and  the  early 
part  of  Winter.  One  ounce  of  good  Endive  seed  will  pro- 
duce about  5000  plants. 

When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they  should 
be  transplanted  into  good  ground,  to  the  distance  of  a  foot 
from  each  other,  and  immediately  watered  ;  or  if  they  are 
set  out  in  cloudy  or  wet  weather,  it  will  save  this  trouble. 
The  plants  will  require  to  be  hoed  and  attended  to  in  the 
same  manner  as  Lettuce,  until  grown  to  a  moderate  size, 
when  they  must  be  blanched.  Select  the  large  and  full- 
hearted  plants,  and  with  bass  or  other  strings,  tie  them  a 
little  above  the  middle,  not  too  tight,  previously  gathering 
up  the  leaves  regularly  in  the  hand.  This  must  be  done 
when  the  leaves  are  very  dry,  otherwise  the  plants  would  rot. 
The  Cichorium  intybus  grows  spontaneously  in  many 
parts  of  Europe  and  America.  In  France  it  is  much  culti- 
vated ;  the  tops  of  the  plants  are  considered  profitable  for 
cattle,  and  the  roots  are  taken  up  in  Autumn,  and  dried. 
The  aromatic  and  volatile  qualities  of  coffee  are,  by  the 
combination  of  this  root,  rendered  more  mellow  and  full 
upon  the  palate,  and  its  fragrance  greatly  increased,  pro- 
ducing an  agreeable  tonic,  and  most  exhilarating  beverage. 


59  HORSE-RADISH. 

Sow  the  seed  in  April  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  and 
about  eighteen  inches  apart ;  thin  out  to  six  or  eight  inches 
in  the  row.  The  plant  produces  beautiful  blue  flowers,  and 
is  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  flower  garden.  The  roots,  when 
dried,  roasted  as  coffee,  and  ground,  may  be  mixed  in  the 
proportion  of  two  ounces  of  the  powder  with  a  pound  of 
coffee. 


HORSE-RADISH. 

RAIFORT.     CocJilearia  armoracia. 

THIS  plant  is  propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  root,  eithef 
cut  from  the  top  about  two  inches  long,  or  by  offsets,  or 
otherwise  useless  parts,  from  the  sides  of  the  main  root, 
retaining  the  crowns  or  top  shoots  in  as  many  parts  as 
possible.  These  should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as 
practicable,  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  six  or  eight  inches 
from  each  other  in  the  rows. 

Select  for  the  bed  a  good  depth  of  soil,  arid  such  as  will 
retain  moisture,  manure  it  with  good  rotten  dung,  plough  or 
dig  it  deep,  and  with  a  drilling  machine  or  other  convenient 
implement,  draw  drills  a  foot  apart — then  plant  with  a 
dibble,  cuttings  as  ubove  described,  in  every  alternate  drill, 
from  two  to  three  inches  deep.  The  intermediate  drills  may 
be  planted  with  Beet  or  Carrot  seed,  or  that  of  any  other 
root,  but  Turnip  Beets  are  the  most  suitable  to  cultivate 
between  the  rows,  as  they  will  grow  quick,  and  can  be 
pulled  out,  without  disturbing  the  Horse  Radish. 

The  Beets  must  of  course  be  thinned  out  while  young, 
and  kept  cultivated  by  hoeing  between  the  rows,  which  will 
also  benefit  the  Horse-Radish.  After  the  Beets  are  pulled, 
hoe  the  ground  again,  and  keep  it  clear  of  weeds,  by  which 
method  the  bed  may  be  cleared  every  year. 

Some  cultivate  Horse-Radish  in  a  permanent  bed,  in 
which  case,  if  in  taking  up  the  roots  some  offsets  be  left 
in  the  ground,  they  will  produce  a  successive  supply  for 
future  years. 


60 

INDIAN  CORN. 
MAIS.     Zea  mayz. 
VARIETIES. 


larly  Button. 
Early  Tuscarora. 
Early  Canadian. 
Sweet,  or  Sugar. 


j          Cobbet's  Early  Norrnandy. 
Southern  Horsetooth. 
Earlv  Golden  Sioux 
Mottled,  and  Curious  Pearl. 


THF,  different  varieties  of  Early  Corn  intended  for  boiling 
when  young,  or  others  as  curiosities,  may  be  planted  in  the 
garden  the  last  week  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in  hills  four 
feet  apart,  or  in  drills.  If  some  of  each  esteemed  variety  be 
planted  in  separate  beds  at  the  same  time,  they  will  come  in 
for  the  table  one  after  the  other  in  regular  succession.  After 
this,  if  any  particular  variety  be  preferred,  it  may  be  planted 
at  different  plantings  in  the  months  of  May  and  June.  If 
the  ground  be  poor,  mix  a  shovelful  of  old  manure  with  the 
earth  in  each  hill  before  the  seeds  are  planted,  and  after  the 
plants  are  up  strong,  scatter  a  tea-cup  full  of  wood  ashes 
around  each  hill.  This,  with  attentive  hoeing  and  hilling, 
will  cause  it  to  produce  eats  early.  Deep  digging  between 
the  hills  is  very  beneficial  when  the  corn  is  about  eighteen 
inches  high. 

JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE. 

POM  ME  DE  TERRE.  Heliantlius  tuberosum. 
THIS  plant  is  a  native  of  America*  The  tubers  of  the 
root  which  are  generally  abundant,  were,  before  potatoes 
became  improved  by  cultivation,  in  great  esteem,  and  are 
yet  considered  a  fine  flavoured  and  nutritious  food,  when 
boiled  and  mashed  with  butter.  They  may  be  easily  propa- 
gated by  cutting  the  roots  into  sets,  with  two  eyes  in  each, 
and  planting  them  in  the  same  manner  as  potatoes,  in 
March  and  April.  To  have  them  in  perfection,  they  should 
be  hoed  frequently,  and  the  ground  kept  loose  around  them, 
In  digging  them  for  use,  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  them 
t)ut  clean,  as  the  least  particle  being  left  will  grow  the  year 
following,  and  encumber  the  ground,  without  producing  a 
crop  worth  standing. 


LEEK. 

POIRREAU.     Allium  porrum. 

VARIETIES. 

Scotch,  or  Flag  j  Large  London. 

THIS  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  herb,  and  is  so  hardy  as 
"to  endure  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  without  injury.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  on  a  bed  of 
rich  earth,  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep,  and  of  a  sufficient 
distance  apart  to  admit  of  a  small  hoe  working  between  the 
rows,  allowing  one  ounce  of  seed  for  every  three  thousand 
plants  that  may  be  required. 

If  the  ground  be  kept  loose  and  clean  around  the  plants, 
they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  in  June,  or  early  in  July,  and 
should  be  set  out  in  good  ground,  in  rows  twelve  inches 
asunder,  and  the  plants  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
They  will  grow  well  in  a  warm  border,  which  at  this  season 
is  useless  for  many  kinds  of  vegetables.  After  the  plants 
have  taken  root,  they  should  be  frequently  hoed,  and  kept 
free  from  weeds. 

Those  who  wish  to  have  leeks  blanched,  may  plant  theiii 
in  trenches  three  or  four  inches  deep,  ^and  as  the  plants 
progress  in  growth,  the  earth  should  be  drawn  by  a  hoe  into 
the  trenches. 


LETTUCE. 

LAITUE.     Lactuca  saliva  crispa. 


VARIETIES. 


Large  Green  head. 
Dutch,  or. Cabbage. 
Tennis  Ball,  or  Rose. 
Madeira,  or  Passion.          ,«  g-3 
Large  Green  Curled.  '  ff 

Egyptian  Green  Coss. 


Early  Silesia. 
Imperial,  or  Sugar  Loaf. 
Pale  Green,  or  Butter. 
Grand  Admiral. 
Large  Summer  Silesia. 
Brighton,  or  Loaf  Coss. 


IT  would  be  easy  to  furnish  a  more  extensive  catalogue 
of  Lettuce,  as  the  varieties  are  numerous  ;  but  as  this  is  one 
<of  those  kinds  of  vegetables  that  can  only  be  raised  in  per- 

6 


6#  LETTUCE. 

fection  during1  mild  afnd  temperate  weather,  it  is  needless  fb/ 
the  gardener  to  plant  any  in  the  open  ground,  but  such  as 
have  been  tested,  and  found  to  stand  a  tolerable  share  of 
warm  weather,  which  generally  prevail  in  May  and  June, 
and  consequently  cuts  short  the  Salad  season.  Those  who 
have  been  accustomed  to  raise  Head  Lettuce  in  any  quantity, 
know  the  trouble  of  preparing  and  planting  the  ground,  and 
the  loss  they  would  sustain,  if  several  thousand  of  plants  run 
up  to  seed  just  as  they  appeared  to  be  perfecting  for  market. 
As  this  is  often  the  case,  even  with  the  very  best  attention,  I 
would  caution  gardeners  to  test  such  plants  as  they  are  not 
acquainted  with,  before  they  set  out  any  quantity  with  a 
view  to  their  heading. 

The  six  varieties  inserted  in  the'  first  column  of  our 
catalogue,  have  been  known  to  stand  our  Winters,  and  may 
fee  sown  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  September,  in  rich 
ground  free  from  weeds  ;  they  answer  very  well  sown  with 
Spinach,  and  should  be  covered  over  with  straw  at  the 
approach  of  severe  weather.  These  plants,  if  transplanted 
into  warm  borders,  or  in  the  open  ground,  as  early  in  March 
as  the  weather  permits,  will  produce  fine  heads  early  in 
the  month  of  May. 

The  best  of  the  tender  kinds  of  Lettuce  should  be  sown  in 
moderate  hot- beds  early  in  March,  which  being  transplanted 
into  good  ground  by  the  middle  of  April,  will  produce  their 
heads  before  the  approach  of  warm  weather.  Such  kinds  as 
are  known  to  produce  heads'  in  hot  weather,  and  also  such 
as  may  be  required  to  cut  as  a  small  Salad  while  young, 
may  be  sown  in  Warm1  borders  in  March  and  April,  but 
those  intended  for  heading  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as 
they  are  an  inch  or  two  in  height,  and  kept  in  a  growing 
state  by  frequent  hoeing,*  or  th«y  may  run  up  to  seed  as  the 
season  advances. 

If  it  be  an  object  with  the  gartfener  to  have  good  strong 
Lettuce  plants  for  transplanting,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
very  thin.  One  ounce  of  good  seed  is  sufficient  for  a  border 
of  six  feet  in  width  by  eighteen  feet  in  length,  and  will  pro- 
duce from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  plants.- 


MELON-  63 

AH  kinds  of  Lettuce  intended  for  heading,  should  be 
planted  in  good  ground  twelve  inches  distant  from  each 
other  every  way  ;  the  plants  should  be  carefully  hoed  every 
other  week,  during  their  growth  ;  the  first  hoeing  should  be 
done  in  about  two  weeks  after  they  are  transplanted. 

The  Coss  Lettuce  requires  to  be  blanched  ;  this  is  done  by 
gathering  up  the  leaves  of  the  plants,  and  tying  bass  round 
them  when  grown  to  perfection. 

If  Head  Lettuce  be  required  at  other  seasons  than  the 
Spring,  it  may  be  obtained  in  Autumn  by  sowing  seed  in 
August,  or  in  the  Winter,  by  means  of  garden  frames  and 
glazed  sashes.  See  article  on  forcing  vegetables. 


MELON. 

MELON.     Cucumis  melo. 


VARIETIES. 


Green  Citron. 

Murray's  Pine  Apple.  I  | 

Persian.  \  => 

Nutmeg.  I  §. 

Star,  Fine  Late.  }  §. 


Large  Yellow  Canteleupe. 
Minorca,  or  Netted  do. 
Pomegranate,  or  Musk  Scented. 
Skillman's,  or  Netted  Romane. 
Snake,  (curious.) 


THE  Melon  is  an  exotic  plant,  growing  wild  in  Asia.  It 
is  cultivated  in  all  the  warm  countries  of  Europe,  and  also 
in  Africa  and  America,  where  its  salubrious  and  cooling 
fruit  is  greatly  esteemed. 

For  the  varieties  of  the  Musk  or  Canteleupe  Melons,  pre- 
pare a  piece  of  rich  ground  the  first  week  in  May  ;  manure 
it  and  give  it  a  good  digging ;  then  mark  it  out  into  squares 
.of  six  feet  every  way  ;  at  the  angle  of  every  square,  dig  a 
hole  twelve  inches  deep  and  eighteen  over,  into  which  put 
about  six  inches  deep  of  old  rotten  dung ;  throw  thereon 
about  four  inches  of  earth,  and  mix  the  dung  and  earth  well 
with  the  spade ;  after  which  draw  more  earth  over  the  mix- 
ture, so  as  to  form  a  circular  hill  about  a  foot  broad  at  top. 
For  a  definition  of  the  term  "  hill,"  see  article  Cucumber. 
When  your  hills  are  all  prepared,  plant  in  each  towards  the 
centre,  six  or  eight  grains  of  seed,  distant  two  inches  from 
one  another,  and  cover  them  about  half  an  inch  deep.  One 


WATER    MELON; 

ounce  of  good  Melon  seed  will  plant  about  one  hundred  and? 
twenty  hills. 

When  the  plants  are  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  producing 
their  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in 
each  hill;  draw  earth  from  time  to  time  round  the  hills,  and 
as  high  about  the  roots  of  the  plants  as  the  seed  leaves. 
As  soon  as  the  plants  spread  into  branches,  they  should  be 
slopped,  by  pinching  off  the  top  of  the  first  runner  bud  ;  this 
will  strengthen  the  plants  and  promote  their  perfecting  the 
fruit  early  ;  after  which  keep  the  ground  perfectly  free  from 
weeds  by  frequent  hoeings. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Melon,  highly  estimated 
in  Europe,  which  do  not  succeed  in  this  country  ;  the  gar. 
dener  should,  therefore,  plant  only  such  as  have  been  tested 
and  found  to  produce  good  fruit  here,  or  our  superior  old 
sorts  may  become  degenerate.  After  a  judicious  selection 
is  made,  if  caution  be  not  used  to  plant  the  different  sorts 
remote  from  each  other,  also  from  cucumbers,  squashes,  and 
gourds,  degeneracy  will  infallibly  be  the  consequence.  To. 
prevent  the  ravages  of  flies,  &c.  see  General  Remarks. 


WATER  MELON, 

MELON  D'EAU.     Cucurbita  citrullus. 

VARIETIES. 

Long  Island.  Apple  seeded. 

Carolina.  Citron,  for  preserves. 

Goodwin's  Scarlet  Imperial. 

THE  Water  Melon,  though  by  some  considered  a  species 
of  the  former,  is  a  distinct  genus  of  exotic  plants.  They 
afford  a  veiy  refreshing  article  of  Juxury  in  our  warm  sum- 
mers.  Dr.  Pallas,  in  the  account  of  his  journey  to  the  south- 
ern provinces  in  Russia,  in  1793  and  94,  speaking  of  a 
colony  of  Moravians  atSarepta,  or  Sapa,  on  the  river  Volga, 
says,  "The  ingenious  inhabitants  of  this  town  brew  a  kind 
of  beer  from  their  very  abundant  and  cheap  Water  Melons, 
with  the  addition  of  Hops  ;  they  also  prepare  a  conserve  QSV 


MUSTARD.  65 

marmalade  from  this  fruit,  which  is  a  good  substitute  for 
syrup  or  treacle." 

In  order  to  have  Water  Melons  in  good  perfection,  you 
must  fix  upon  a  piece  of  very  rich  light  soil ;  prepare,  plant 
and  manage  it  in  every  respect  as  is  directed  for  the  others, 
only  let  the  hills  be  seven  or  eight  feet  distant  every  way. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  from  forty  to  fifty  hills. 


MUSTARD, 

MOUTARDE.     Sinapis. 

VARIETIES. 
White.  |  Black. 

THE  Alba,  or  White  Mustard,  grows  spontaneously  in 
the  fields  of  England  ;  it  is  also  cultivated  as  a  small  Salad, 
as  well  as  for  seed.  The  seed  yields  from  every  hundred 
pounds,  from  thirty-three  to  thirty*  six  pounds  of  sweet 
mild  oil. 

White  Mustard  Seed  is  much  used  as  a  medicine,  and  per- 
sons subject  to  disordered  stomachs  often  derive  great  benefit 
by  taking  a  spoonful  of  the  dry  seed,  two  or  three  times  a 
day.  Some  use  it  in  pickles,  to  which  it  imparts  an  agree- 
able flavour,  and  renders  Cucumbers  in  particular  more 
salutary. 

The  Nigra,  or  Common  Mustard,  is  also  a  native  of 
England.  The  condiment,  called  Mustard,  and  in  daily 
use  at  our  table,  is  prepared  from  the  seed  of  this  species. 

The  seeds  of  each  variety  may  be  sown  in  clean  rich 
ground  in  April  and  May;  and  for  a  fall  Salad  in  September, 
in  shallow  drills. 


6* 


NASTURTIUM. 

GAPUCINE.      Tropceolum. 

Tins  is  an  annual  plant,  a  native  of  Peru,  and  is  highlv 
deserving  of  cultivation  for  the  sake  of  its  brilliant  orange 
and  crimson  coloured  flowers,  as  well  as  for  the  berries,, 
which,  if  gathered,  while  green  and  pickled  in  vinegar, 
make  a  good  substitute  for  capers,  and  are  used  in  melted 
butter,  with  boiled  mutton,  &c. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in 
drills  about  an  inch  deep,  near  fences  or  pales;  or  trellises 
should  be  fixed  on  which  they  can  climb  and  have  support, 
for  they  will  always  be  more  productive  in  this  way  than 
when  suffered  to  trail  on  the  ground. 


OKRA. 

GOMBO.     Hibiscus  esculentUs. 

THE  green  capsules  of  this  plant  are  used  in  soups, 
stews,  &c.,  to  which  they  impart  a  rich  flavour,  and  are 
considered  nutritious.  Its  ripe  seeds,  if  burnt  and  ground 
Tike  coffee,  can  scarcely  lie  distinguished  therefrom. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  in  good  rich  ground,  the  first 
or  second  week  in  May,  if  settled  warAi  weather,  but  not 
otherwise,  as  it  is  a  very  tender  vegetable.  Draw  drills 
about  an  inch  deep,  and  three  or  four  feet  asunder,  into 
which  drop  the  seeds  at  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches1 
from  one  another,  or  rather  drop  two  or  three  in  each  place, 
test  the  one  should  not  grow,  and  cover  them  nearly  an  inch 
deep  ;  as  the  plants  advance  in  growth,  thin  them  out,  eartrr 
thanvup  two  or  three  times^nd  they  will  produce  abundantly- 


6f 
ONION. 

OIGNON.     Allium  cepa}  etc.  etc: 


VARIETIES. 


White  Portugal. 
Silver  Skinned. 
Deptford  Red. 


Yellow  Dutch. 
Strasburgh,  or  Flanders. 
Madeira,  (imported.) 


OF  the  several  varieties  of  Onions,  the  Yellow  or  Silver 
Skinned,  and  Deptford  Red,  are  the  best  for  a  general  crop. 
The  bulbs  are  handsome,  of  firm  growth,,  and  keep  wel!< 
through  the  Winter.  The  white  Portugal  are  handsome  for 
the  table,  very  suitable  for  pickling  ;  also  to  pull  while 
young :  and  generally  prove  a  very  profitable  crop. 

Previous  to  sowing  Onion  seed  for  a  general  crop,  the 
ground  should  be  well  prepared  by  digging  in  some  of  the 
oldest  and  strongest  manure  that  can  be  got.  The  earlier 
this  be  done  in  the  Spring,  the  better  ;  and  the  planting 
should  not  be  delayed  longer  than  the  middle  of  April.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  moderately  thick  in  drills  one  inch 
deep,  and  twelve  inches  apart 

Those  who  cultivate  Onions  for  the  sake  of  their  bulbs,, 
may  use  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  pounds  of  seed  per  acre. 

As  market  gardeners,  in  the  vicinity  of  large  cities, 
find  it  most  profitable  to  pull  a  great  proportion  of  their 
Onions  while  young,  they  generally  require  at  the  rate  of 
from  eight  to  ten  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre  of  land. 

When  the  plants  are  up  strong,  they  should  be  hoed. 
Those  beds  that  are  to  stand  for  ripening,  should  be  thinned 
out  while  young,  to  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from 
each  other  ;  if  a  few  should  be  required  for  use  after  thisr 
those  can  be  taken  which  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots, 
and  if  the  beds  be  frequently  looked  over,  and  the  small  and; 
stalky  plants  taken  away  where  they  stand  thickest,  the 
remaining  bulbs  will  grow  to  a  larger  size/  The  plants 
should  be  hoed  at  least  three  times  in  the  early  part  of  their 
growth  ;  but  if  the  season  prove  damp,  and  weeds  vegetate 
luxuriantly,  they  must  be  removed  by  the  hand,  because,, 
after  the  Onions  have  begun  to  bulb,  it  would  be  improper, 
to  stir  them  with  a  hoe, 


68  ONION. 

When  the  greenness  is  gone  out  of  the  tops  of  Onions,  it 
is  time  {o  take  them  up,  for  from  this  time  the  fibrous  roots 
decay.  After  they  are  pulled,  they  should  be  laid  out  to 
dry,  and  when  dry,  removed  to  a  place  of  shelter. 

The  small  Onions  may  be  planted  in  the  Spring  following  : 
even  an  Onion  which  is  partly  rotten  will  produce  good 
bulbs,  if  the  seed  stems  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

The  Allium  fistulosum,  or  Welsh  Onions,  are  cultivated 
for  Spring  salad  ;  they  form  no  bulbs,  but  are  very  hardy. 
If  the  seed  be  sown  early  in  September  in  rich  ground, 
although  the  crops  may  die  down  in  the  Winter,  yet  the 
roots  will  continue  sound,  and  put  up  new  leaves  early  in 
the  Spring. 

The  Allium  cepa,  or  common  White  and  Red  Onions, 
are  most  generally  cultivated  by  market  gardeners  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  the  Allium  fistulosum  ;  they  sow  the  seed  in  the 
Spring  and  Autumn  months,  the  product  of  which  is  pulled 
and  sent  to  market  while  young,  and  generally  meets  a 
ready  sale. 

The  Allium  proliferum,  or  Tree  Onion,  is  propagated  by 
planting  the  bulbs  in  Spring  or  Autumn,  either  the  root  bulbs, 
or  those  produced  on  the  top  of  the  stalks  ;  the  latter,  if 
planted  in  the  Spring,  will  produce  fine  Onions.  These  may 
be  planted  in  rows  with  a  dibble,  the  same  as  Shallots. 

The  Potatoe  Onion  is  of  late  introduction  into  this  coun- 
try. It  does  not  produce  seed  as  other  Onions,  but  it  increa- 
ses by  the  root.  One  single  Onion,  slightly  covered,  will 
produce  six  or  seven  in  a  clump,  partly  under  ground. 

The  bulbs  are  generally  planted  in  the  Spring,  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  apart,  but  they  will  survive  the  Winter, 
and  yield  better  by  being  planted  in  Autumn,  if  slightly 
covered  with  dung,  litter,  or  leaves  of  trees. 


60 
PARSLEY. 

PERSIL.     Apium petroselinum. 

VARIETIES. 

Dwarf  Curled.  I          Hardy  Siberian. 

Extra  Curled.  Large  Rooted  Hamburg-. 

Single  or  Common.  Large  Rooted  Naples. 

PARSLEY  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  grows  wild  ir> 
moist  climates,  but  has  been  greatly  improved  by  cultiva- 
tion. The  leaves  of  Common  Parsley  are  used  as  a  pot 
herb,  and  those  of  the  Extra  Curled  kinds  make  a  fine 
garnish.  The  Large  Rooted  are  generally  cooked  for  the 
table  in  Autumn  and  Winter,  like  Parsnips. 

As  Parsley  seed,  sown  late  in  the  season,  is  apt  to  lay  in 
the  ground  some  time  before  it  vegetates,  and  often  fails  in 
dry  weather,  the  general  crop  should  be  sown  by  the  early 
part  of  April,  in  drills  an  inch  deep,  and  one  foot  asunder, 
allowing  at  the  rate  of  about  sir  or  seven  pounds  of  seed  to 
the  acre,  or  two  ouaces  for  every  three  perches  of  land. 
After  the  plants  are  up,  let  them  be  kept  clean  by  frequent 
hoeings.  The  Large  Rooted  Parsley  should  be  thinned  out 
while  young,  and  managed  the  same  as  Carrots  and 
Parsnips. 

In  order  to  have  Parsley  grean  through  the  Winter,  the 
old  leaves  should  be  picked  off  in  September.  If  some  of 
the  roots  be  taken  up  early§  in  November,  and  laid  in  a 
frame,  or  light  cellar,  the  leaves  will  keep  green  a  long 
time  ;  ihe  remainder  may  be  covered  up  with  straw  in  the 
place  where  it  grows. 

If  some  Parsley  seed  be  sown  in  frames  in  Spring  or 
Summer,  it  may  be  preserved  for  Winter  use  without  the 
trouble  of  removing  it. 


TO 

PARSNIP. 
PANAIS.     Pastinaca  sativa. 

VARIETIES. 
Long  Guernsey  Cup.  |          Large  Dutch,  or  Common. 

THIS  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  common  in  calcareous 
soils ;  it  has  long  been  an  inmate  of  the  garden,  and  forms 
a  vegetable  dish  in  the  Winter,  with  salt  meat,  salted 
fish,  &c. 

Parsnip  seed  may  be  planted  from  the  middle  of  March 
to  the  last  week  in  April,  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and  four- 
teen inches  apart ;  and  as  this  vegetable  requires  the  whole 
season  to  grow  in,  the  sooner  the  seed  is  planted  the  better. 
Parsnips  grow  best  in  a  deep  soil,  manured  well  the  preced- 
ing fall.  Sow  the  seeds  thick  along  the  drills,  at  the  rate  of 
five  or  six  pounds  per  acre,  and  rake  them  in  evenly.  * 

When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  thin  them 
to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  in  the  rows.  They 
should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  by  regular  hoeings  through 
the'Summer,  and  in  Autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use ;  but 
they  improve  in  flavour  after  having  been  frozen,  and  will 
endure  the  severity  of  a  hard  Winter,  See  calendar  for 
November. 

Parsnips  require  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  boiling, 
according  to  their  size  and  age,  Some  boil  them  in  water, 
seasoned  with  salt,  until  tender ;  but  they  are  better  when 
boiled  with  salt  pork,  and  afterwards  mashed  and  fried  in 
butter. 


*  This  plant,  although  when  in  full  growth  will  endure  the  extremes 
of  heat  and  cold,  it  requires  peculiar  management  to  promote  and  pre- 
serve germination  in  an  early  stage  of  culture.  In  order  to  give  the 
seed  a  fair  chance,  it  should  be  planted  in  such  ground  as  is  susceptible 
of  moisture,  and  that  is  not  apt  to  incrust  when  dry.  The  seed  should 
be  dropped  thick  along  the  drills,  and  well  covered — as  single  or  solitary 
plants  are  apt  to  perish,  from  not  having  sufficient  strength  to  opentho 
pores  of  the  earth,  and  in  the  event  of  drought  such  plants  die  off  pre- 
maturely. If  cultivated  in  light  or  dry  ground,  the  same  should  be 
polled  or  pressed  immediately  aftpr  depositing  the  seed  therein,  to  pre« 
fierve  moisture, 


n 

PEPPER. 

£oiVBE  ou  PIMENT.     CapsicuMi 

VARIETIES. 

Grossum,  or  Bell  Pepper.  Long  Red,  or  Bird's  Bilk 

'Tomato  shaped,  or  Squash.  Cherry,  or  West  Indian. 

Sweet  Spanish ;  used  as  a  Salad,  has  a  very  delicate  taste. 

THIS  family  of  plants  are  natives  of  the  East  and  West 
Indies ;  some  of  their  capsules,  or  pods^  are  yellow,  and 
others  red,  when  at  maturity  ;  they  are  much  used  for  pick- 
ling, and  should  be  gathered  for  that  purpose  before  they 
are  fully  ripe. 

The  seeds  of  the  different  kinds  of  Capsicums  may  be 
sown  in  a  hot-bed  in  March,  or  on  a  warm  border,  early  in 
May.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  three  thousand 
plants.  When  the  plants  arrive  at  the  height  of  from  one 
to  two  inches,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  good  rich 
ground,  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  distant  from  each 
other. 

Those  who  do  not  want  Peppers  early  in  the  season^ 
may  sow  some  seed  in  the  open  ground  in  May,  in  drills  two 
feet  asunder,  and  half  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are 
grown  an  inch  or  two  high,  thin  them  to  the  distance  of 
fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should 
be  afterwards  hoed  deep  round  the  plants,  and  kept  free 
from  weeds  by  repeated  hoeings. 

The  Capsicum  Grossum,  or  Bell  Pepper,  is  perennial,  and 
will  keep  in  perpetual  bearing  in  warm  climates.  In  Eng- 
land this  species  is  considered  superior  to  all  others,  on 
account  of  its  skin  being  thick,  and  also  pulpy  and  tender; 
the  plants  are  therefore  frequently  preserved  in  hot-houses 
during  the  Winter  and  Spring,  and  kept  in  the  open  air  in 
settled  warm  weather. 


72 
PEAS. 

Pois.     Pisum  sativum. 


VARIETIES. 


Bishop's  Early  Dwarf,  1  foot, 
fcarly  Washington,r3  feet. 
Early  Frame,  2  1-2. 
Early  Charlton,  3  feet. 
Double  Blossom  Frame,  3  feet. 


Dwarf  Prolific,  or  Strawberry,  2  feet  Knight's  Dwarf  Marrow,  3  feet. 
Dwarf  Spanish,  or  Fan,  1  fobt.          «r-.j^^,-  <-<.. —  i>_.i:«_   a  <-„. 


Early  Nimble  Dick,  3  1-2  feet. 
Early  Warwick,  3  feet. 
Dwarf  Blue,  Imperial,  2  feet. 
Waterloo  Blue,  4  feet. 


Dwarf  Blue,  Prussian,  2  1-2  ffeeV 
Dwarf  Marrowfat,  3  1-2  feet. 
Ladies'  Finger  Marrows,  4  feet 
Matchless  Marrowfat,  6  feet. 
Knight's  Tall  Marrow,  6  feet. 


Woodford's  Green  Prolific,  6  feet. 
Large  Grey  Rouncival,  4  feet. 
Dwarf  Sugar  (eatable  pods)  3  feet. 
Tall  Crooked  Pod  Sugar,  6  feet. 
French  Bouquet,  or  Sugar,  3  1-2  ft. 


Groom's  Dwarf  Blue  Prolific,  4  feet.!  Albany  Field,  in  varieties. 

THE  above  list  and  description  of  the  most  esteemed 
kinds  of  Peas,  are  taken  from  the  catalogue  of  Mr.  G.  C. 
Thorburn.  If  they  are  rightly  described,  they  will  grow  to 
different  heights,  according  to  soil  and  season.  This 
description,  however,  may  serve  as  a  guide  for  the  gardener 
in  planting.  The  dwarf  Peas  require  less  distance  between 
row  and  row,  and  shorter  sticks  than  the  tall  kinds. 

Planting  the  early  kinds  of  Peas  should  commence  as 
soon  in  the  Spring  as  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good 
condition  ;  nil  the  other  sorts,  as  well  as  the  early,  will 
answer  for  successive  crops ;  to  obtain  which,  a  few  of  the 
most  esteemed  varieties  should  be  planted  at  the  same  time 
every  two  weeks,  from  March  until  the  end  of  May.  Per- 
sons desirous  of  having  Peas  throughout  the  Summer  and 
Autunvn  may  plant  a  few  in  June,  July  and  August.  The 
Peas  should  be  then  soaked  in  soft  water,  five  or  six  hours 
before  planting,  and  if  the  ground  be  dry,  it  should  be 
watered  in  the  drills. 

Gardeners  practice  different  modes  of  planting  Peas, 
some  plant  them  in  ridges,  others  in  drills,  some  in  single 
rows,  others  in  double,  some  use  sticks  for  the  dwarf  kinds, 
and  others  not ;  those  who  study  neatness  should,  however, 
have  them  all  rodded,  though  the  most  dwarfish  may  do 
without. 

All  the  different  sorts  of  Peas  may  be  planted  in  double 
•or  single  rows,  from  four  to  six  feet  apart,  according  to  the 


PEAS.  7S 

Different  heights  they  may  be  expected  to  grow.  If  two 
drills  be  made  three  inches  deep,  and  about  nine  inches 
apart,  and  the  seed  dropped  along  each  drill  moderately 
thick,  they  will  yield  better  than  single  rows,  and  will  save 
sticks.  When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  let 
them  be  hoed,  drawing  at  the  same  time  a  little  earth  up  to 
their  stems  ;  when  they  get  to  double  that  height,  let  them 
be  hoed  again,  at  the  same  time  place  a  row  of  sticks  in  the 
middle  of  your  double  rows,  and  a  few  shorter  and  smaller 
ones  on  the  outside  of  each  row,  to  assist  the  Peas  in  climb- 
bing  to  their  main  support.  You  must  be  governed  as  to 
the  length  of  your  sticks  by  the  description  of  your  Peas. 
There  is  great  advantage  in  having  sticks  of  a  suitable 
height  to  the  various  kinds  of  Peas ;  the  sticks  should  not 
only  be  sufficiently  tall,  but  also  branchy,  that  the  plants 
may  readily  take  hold ;  and  they  should  be  prepared  fan 
fashion,  so  that  the  side  branches  may  extend  only  along 
the  rows.  As  the  plants  progress  in  growth,  let  them  be 
repeatedly  hoed  and  earthed  up ;  this  will  promote  a  plen- 
tiful bearing. 

One  quart  of  Peas  will  plant  from  one  hundred  and  fifty 
to  two  hundred  feet  of  row,  allowing  the  largest  kinds  to 
average  one  inch  apart,  and  the  smallest,  two  peas  to  the 
inch. 

To  have  green  peas  in  perfection,  they  should  be  gathered 
while  young,  and  cooked  immediately  after  they  are  shelled, 
or  they  will  soon  lose  their  colour  and  sweetness.  Let  the 
water  be  seasoned  with  salt,  and  boiled  ;  then  put  in  the 
Peas  with  a  small  bunch  of  Spear  Mint,  and  ease  the  cover 
so  as  to  let  oft*  the  steam  ;  they  require  about  fifteen  minutes 
boiling,  or  five  minutes  more  or  less,  according  to  the  age 
and  care  bestowed.  Taste  and  try  in  time,  so  as  to  have 
them  done  to  a  nicety. 

The  Sugar  Peas  have  no  inner  tough  film,  or  skin,  to  the 
pods,  like  the  common  sorts  ;  they  should  therefore  be 
boiled  without  shelling,  and  served  up  the  same  as  Kidney 
Beans, 


74 
POTATOES. 

POMME  BE  TERRE.     Solanum  tuberosum. 

THE  Potatoe  is  known  to  be  a  native  of  the  Southern  part® 
of  America,  but  has  been  greatly  improved  by  cultivation. 

The  varieties  being  very  numerous,  it  is  unnecessary  for 
me  to  point  out  any  particular  kinds  ;  some  of  the  earliest 
should,  ^however,  be  planted  first  in  the  spring,  to  produce 
young  Potatoes  in  due  season,  but  they  are  not  so  suitable 
for  a  full  crop  as  the  late  varieties. 

Potatoes  being  of  such  extensive  utility,  various  expedients 
have  been  contrived  with  a  view  to  find  out  the  best  method 
of  preparing  the  seed.  In  many  parts  of  England,  (where 
Potatoes  equal  to  any  in  the  world  are  raised,)  the  farmers 
seldom  plant  them  whole;  they  take  the  Potatoes  as  they 
come  to  hand,  and  in  cutting  them  take  care  to  have  two 
good  eyes  in  each  set ;  the  smalKPotatoes  are  deprived  of 
the  sprout  or  nose  end,  as  it  is  generally  considered  that  a 
redundancy  of  eyes  exhausts  the  set,  and  produces  weak 
plants,  which  are  not  calculated  to  yield  a  full  crop.  I  have 
frequently  known  from  five  to  six  hundred  bushels  raised 
from  an  acre  with  small  Potatoes  alone  cut  in  this  way. 
Some  prefer  planting  the  sets  immediately  after  they  are 
cut ;  the  better  way  is  to  get  them  cut  a  week  before  the 
time  of  planting,  and  to  lay  them  out  on  a  barn,  or  garret 
floor,  to  dry. 

It  will  require  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bushels  of  Potatoes 
to  plant  an  acre  of  ground,  according  to  the  size  and  nature 
of  the  seed  roots,  the  manner  of  preparing,  and  mode  of 
planting  the  same. 

Potatoes  may  be  planted  from  the  first  week  in  April  until 
July,  either  in  hills  or  drills  ;  the  best  way  for  a  garden  is  to 
plant  them  in  drills  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and  about 
thirty  inches  asunder  ;  the  sets  may  be  dropped  six  or  eight 
inches  apart;  and  if  a  small  quantity  of  combmaker's  horn 
shavings  or  sea  weed,  be  used  as  a  manure  for  the  early 
kinds,  it  will  expedite  their  growth  ;  the  ground  should  be 
hoed  as  soon  as  the  plants  come  up,  and  as  they  progress-  in 
growth,  it  will  be  proper  to  mould  or  earth  them  up  twice. 


x  75 

POTATOE,  SWEET. 

POMHE  DE  TERRE  DOUCE.       Convolvulus  batdta$. 

SPTEET  Potatoes  are  grown  to  great  perfection  in  the 
Southern  States,  and  may  be  raised  in  the  vicinity  of  New" 
York,  by  means  of  a  moderate  hot-bed,  in  which  they  should 
be  planted  whole,  early  in  April,  three  or  four  inches  deep, 
and  about  the  same  distance  apart.  In  about  a  month  they 
will  throw  up  sprouts.  When  these  are  three  inches  above 
ground,  part  them  off  from  the  Potatoe,  which,  if  suffered  to 
remain,  will  produce  more  sprouts  for  a  successive  planting; 
transplant  them  into  rich  light  soil,  in  rows  four  feet  apart, 
and  the  plants  about  a  foot  apart,  in  the  rows,  or  in  hills 
four  feet  apart.  Keep  them  clear  o£  weeds,  until  the  vines 
begin  to  cover  the  ground,  after  which  they  will  grow  freely. 
In  sandy  ground,  it  is  well  to  put  a  shovelful  of  rottem 
manure  to  each  plant. 

A  moderate  hot-bed,  five  feet  square,  put  down  early  in 
the  month  of  April,  with  half  a  peck  of  good  sound  Sweet 
Potatoes  placed  therein,  will  produce  a  succession  of  sprouts 
in  May  and  Jutie,  which  if  planted  and  managed  as  directed, 
will  yield  about  fifteen  bushels  of  good  roots. 


PUMPKIN. 

CITROUILLE  ou  POTIROX.     Cucurbita  pepo. 


VARIETIES. 


Finest  Yellow  Family, 
Large  Cheese. 
Mammoth,  or  Spanish. 


Connecticut  Field. 

White  Bell. 

Seven  Years,  or  Long-keeping. 


THIS  plant  is  highly  deserving  cultivation,  particularly  in 
new  settlements ;  the  large  sorts  are  profitable  for  cattle,  as 
some  of  the  mammoth  tribe  have  been  known  to  weigh 
upwards  of  two  hundred  pounds  each  ;  the  other  kinds  are 
also  very  productive,  and  may  be  raised  on  any  waste  laud, 
provided  it  will  admit  of  digging  small  spots,  of  a  foot  or 
two  dimensions,  every  ten  or  twelve  feet,  for  the  hills,  and 


76"  RADISH. 

that  the  residue  of  the  ground  be  unencumbered  for  the- 
plants  to  run  on.  They  are  generally  raised  on  cultivated 
farms,  between  hills  of  Indian  .Corn,  and  may  be  planted  in 
the*  garden  or  open  field,  in  May  or  June,  in  hills  eight  or 
ten  feet  apart,  with  three  or  four  seeds  in  each  hill. 

One  quart  of  Field  Pumpkin  Seed  will  plant  from  five  to 
six  hundred  hills.  An  ounce  of  the  finer  kinds  will  plant 
from  fifty  to  eighty  hills. 

Pumpkins  are  not  so  tenacious  of  a  particular  soil  as  either 
Melons  or  Cucumbers,  but,  in  other  respects,  are  cultivated 
in  the  same  manner,  only  that  in  raising  them  on  a  large 
scale,  the  ground  may  be  prepared  with  a  plough,  and  also 
afterwards,  as  the  weeds  advance,  the  plough  and  harrow 
may  be  used  between  the  plants  until  they  begin  to  run, 
which  will  save  much  labour. 

The  finest  quality  Pumpkins  are  known  to  make  good 
pies,  and  may  also,  after  being  boiled,  be  worked  up  with 
wheaten  flour  into  bread,  for  which  purpose  they  are  fully 
equal  to  Indian  meal.  The  knowledge  of  this  fact  may 
prove  advantageous  to  farmers  living  at  a  distance  from 
cities,  as  they  may  find  a  market  for  their  grain  or  mea] 
easier  than  for- their  Pumpkins. 


RADISH, 

RADIS  ou  RAVE.     Raphanus  sativus. 

VARIETIES. 


Long  Scarlet. 
Long  Purple. 
Scarlet  Pear  shape. 
Scarlet  Turnip. 
White  Turnip  Rooted., 


Long  White  Naples. 


Purple  Turnip.  f     ^ 

Yellow  Turnip. 
White  Spanish. 
Black  Spanish. 


I 


THE  different  varieties  of  Radishes  are  extensively  culti'- 
vated  near  large  cities,  chiefly  for  their  roots,  which  are 
considered  a  luxury  after  a  hard  Winter,  and  prove  accept- 
able as  the  warm  weather  approaches,  provided  they  can  be 
obtained  in  perfection.  The  plant  is  also  cultivated  for  the 
sake  o£  the  seed  leaves,  w.hiclx  are  used,  as  a  small 


ROCAMBOLE.  77 

and  even  the  seed  pods,  if  pickled  while  youhg  and  green, 
are  by  some  considered  a  good  substitute  for  Capers. 

Those  who  may  be  desirous  of  having  good  Radishes 
early  in  the  Spring,  should  have  a  warm  border  prepared  in 
the  very  best  manner,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  sow  some  of  the 
Short  Top  Scarlet  by  the  middle  of  March.  If  the  ground 
should  not  be  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed  at  this 
time,  let  it  be  delayed  a  few  days,  and  by  the  first  of  April, 
take  care  to  have  another  bed  prepared  in  the  open  ground, 
by  digging  in  some  good  strong  manure.  The  seed  may  be 
sown  broadcast,  and  raked  in  evenly,  or  in  drills  drawn 
about  one  inch  deep,  and  a  foot  apart. 

If  you  wish  to  have  Radishes  in  regular  succession,  sow 
seeds  of  the^most  esteemed  varieties  every  two  weeks,  until  the 
middle  of  May:  if  any  be  sown  after  this,  it  should  be  the 
sorts  described  in  the  second  column  of  our  catalogue. 
These  will  endure  the  heat  better  than  the  others,  and  may 
be  sown  in  drills,  in  small  quantities,  throughoutthe  Summer, 
until  the  latter  end  of  August,  when  all  the  varieties  may  be 
sown  in  regular  succession  until  the  first  of  October.  Market 
gardeners  may  prepare  the  ground  with  a  plough,  and 
cover  such  seed  as  may  be  sown  broadcast  with  a  harrow. 

For  early  Spring  crops  the  seed  may  be  sown  at  the  rate 
of  from  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  to  the  acre,  broadcast ; 
and  about  half  the  quantity  may  be  sufficient,  in  drills  drawn 
a  foot  apart.  Of  the  large  late  kinds,  five  pounds  to  the 
acre  will  be  enough,  if  sown  regularly  in  drills  as  directed. 

It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  gardener  of  the 
necessity  of  sowing  tobacco  dust,  soot  or  ashes,  &c.  over 
his  seed  beds,  in  hot  dry  weather,  or  he  will  find  it  difficult 
to  raise  Radishes  in  impropitious  seasons. — See  article 
Turnip,  also  the  General  Remarks. 


ROCAMBOLE. 

AIL  D'ESPAGNE.     Allium  scorodoprasum. 

THIS  and  the  Allium  sativum,  or  common  Garlic,  is  raised 
in  some  gardens.     Many  people  consider  the  Rocambole 

7* 


78  RHUBAKB. 

to  be  of   a  milder  and   better  flavor,  but  the   bulbs    are~ 
not  so  large  as  those  of  the  Garlic. 

The  plants  are  very  hardy,  and  will  grow  in  almost  every 
soil  or  situation.  They  may  be  propagated  either  by  the 
roots  or  seeds  ;  the  former  ought  to  be  separated  and  planted 
at  the  same  time,  and  in  the  same  manner  as  Shallots. 

If  raised  from  seeds,  they  may  be  sown  in  drills,  either 
shortly  after  the  seeds  are  ripe,  or  in  the  succeeding  Spring ; 
they  require  only  to  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  in  the 
following  Autumn  may  be  taken  up,  the  bulbs  parted,  and 
planted  as  before  ~ 


RHUBARB. 

RHUBARBE.     Rheum. 

RHUBARB  is  a  genus  of  exotic  plants,  comprising  seven 
species,  of  which  the  following  are  the  principal : — 

1.  Rhaponticum,   or   Common    Rhubarb,    a   native    of 
Thrace    and    Syria,  has  long  been   cultivated  in   British 
gardens  for  the  footstalks  of  the  leaves,  which  are  frequently 
used  in  pies  and  tarts. 

2.  Rheum  undulatum  is  also  cultivated  for  the  same  use. 

3.  The   Palmatum,   or   true   Officinale    Rhubarb,   is  a 
native  of  China  and  the  East  Indies,  whence  its  culture  has 
been  introduced  into  Europe  ;  it  produces  a  thick  fleshy 
root,  externally  yellowish  brown,  but  internally  of  a  bright 
yellow  colour,  streaked  with  red  veins.     It  grows  to  great 
perfection  in  Scotland,  as  far  north  as  Perthshire,  (lat  56,) 
also  in  England,  Turkey,  and  various  other  parts  of  Europe. 
When  the  importance  of  this  root  as  a  medicine  is   consi- 
dered, it  is  a  matter  of  astonishment   that  it  has  not  been 
more  generally  introduced  into  the  United  States. 

The  several  kinds  of  Rhubarb  may  be  propagated  by 
offsets  taken  from  the  roots  early  in  the  Spring,  or  from  seed 
sown  late  in  Autumn,  or  in  March  and  the  early  part  of  April. 
The  indispensable  points  to  the  production  of  good  roots  of 
the  Palmatum,  are  depth  and  richness  of  soil,  which  should 
be  well  pulverized  before  the  plants  are  set  out.  Prepare 


RHUBARB.  7jy 

Beds  of  fine  mould  eighteen  inches  deep ;  in  these  put  in  the 
plants  from  the  seed  bed,  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart ;  this 
must  be  done  when- they  have  attained  the  height  of  four  or 
five  inches,  and  have  thrown  out  as  many  leaves. 

The  first  season  is  the  most  critical,  and  much  care  is 
necessary.  If  the  weather  be  hot,  the  nursery  must  be 
shaded,  and  at  all  events  continually  watered ;  for  water, 
though  hurtful  to  old  plants,  is  now  of  the  first  consequence. 
Wet  weather  is  the  most  proper  time  to  plant  in.  The  beds 
must  be  kept  free  from  weeds  during  the  Summer,  and  on 
die  approach  of  severe  weather,  covered  up  with  light  litter. 
The  early  part  of  the  Spring  this  must  be  taken  off,  and  in 
the  beginning  of  April  the  plants  must  be  transplanted  into 
ground  dug  and  prepared  as  directed  for  Asparagus. 

Those  who  cultivate  the  Palmatum  for  the  sake  of  the 
roots,  should  dig  the  ground  two  or  three  spades  deep,  and 
place  the  plants  three  feet  apart  everyway.  As  to  the  other 
varieties,  it  is  not  so  particular,  if  the  plants  have  room  to 
grow.  In  the  early  part  of  November,  the  leaves  being  then 
decayed,  the  beds  should  be  covered  with  dry  litter;  before 
this  is  done,  a  little  earth  should  be  drawn  round  the  crowns 
of  the  plants.  If  there  be  any  danger  of  water  lodging, 
make  trenches  to  carry  it  off.  In  the  month  of  March,  the 
beds  ^should  be  stripped  of  their  covering,  and  the  ground 
well  hoed  and  cleared  of  weeds. 

The  roots  of  Palmatum  must  not  be  taken  up,  until  six  or 
seven  years  old.  The  stalks  of  the  other  kinds  may  be  cat 
every  Spring,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  expanded. 

If  Rhubarb  stalks  be  required  for  use  early  in  the  Spring, 
they  may  be  obtained  by  placing  flour  barrels  or  deep  tubs 
over  some  of  the  plants,  and-  covering  them  up  with  fresh 
stable  dung,  or  by  any  of  the  methods  pointed  out  in  the 
article  under  the  head  of  Forcing  Vegetables. 

The  stalks  of  this  plant  are  used  for  pies  and  tarts.  After 
being  stripped  of  the  skin,  or  outer  covering,  and  divested  of 
its  small  fibres,  or  stringiness,  which  it  is  liable  to,  in  an 
advanced  stage  of  growth,  it  should  be  cut  transversely  into 
very  small  pieces,  and  then  parboiled  with  sugar,  and  such 
apices  as  may  best  suit  the  palate.  It  will  keep  this  way  the 


SO  SALSIFY. 

same  as  other  preserves,  and  may  be  used  not  only  in  pies 
and  tarts,  but  it  makes  excellent  pudding,  by  flattening  a 
suety  crust  with  a  rolling  pin,  then  spreading  on  the  fruit, 
rolling  it  up  in  an  oval  shape,  and  boiling  it  in  a  cloth.  The 
fruit  this  way  will  retain  its  virtues,  and  the  pudding  may  be 
served  up  hot,  in  slices  of  from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  thick, 
and  spreading  butter  and  sugar  between  the  layers. 

Some  boil  the  stalks  to  a  juice,  which  being  strained 
through  a  colander  will  keep  for  years,  if  well  spiced  and 
seasoned  with  sugar. 

In  England,  large  drying  houses  have  been  erected  for  the 
purpose  of  curing  the  roots  of  the  Palmatum  ;  but  this  busi- 
ness may  be  done  in  this  country  as  it  is  done  in  China  :  by 
the  heat  of  the  sun.  After  the  roots  have  been  well  washed, 
and  the  small  fibres  cut  off,  they  are  then  cut  transversely 
into  pieces  of  about  two  inches  thick,  and  dried  on  boards, 
turning  them  several  times  a  day,  in  order  to  prevent  the 
escape  of  the  yellow  juice,  on  which  its  medicinal  qualities 
depend.  In  four  or  five  days,  they  may  be  strung  upon 
strings,  and  suspended  in  a  shady,  but  airy  and  dry  situa- 
tion, and  in  two  months  afterwards  they  will  be  fit  for  the 
market. 


SALSIFY. 

SALSIFIS  ou  CERCIFIS.      Tragopogon  porrifolius. 

THIS  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  open  fields  of 
England,  and  is  by  some  highly  valued  for  its  white  eatable 
root,  and  for  the  young  shoots  rising  in  the  Spring  from 
plants  a  year  old  ;  these  when  gathered  while  green  and 
tender,  are  good  to  boil  and  eat  in  the  manner  of  Asparagus. 
Some  have  carried  their  fondness  for  this  plant  so  far  as  to 
call  it  Vegetable  Oyster.  It  requires  the  same  kind  of  soil 
and  management  as  Carrots  and  Parsnips. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  the  latter  end  of  March,  or  early 
in  April,  an  inch  deep,  in  drills  twelve  inches  apart.  When 
the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  they  should  be 
thinned  to  the  distance  of  six  inches  from  each  other,  and 


SCOBZONERl.  81 

afterwards  hoed.     The  ground  should  be  kept  clean  and 
loose  round  the  plants,  by  repeated  hoeings ;  and  in  the 
Autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use.     The  roots  may  be  taken  up 
late  in  Autumn,  and  secured  in  moist  sand  from  the  air;  or 
be  suffered  to  remain  out,  and  dug  up  when  wanted. 

As  the  seeds  of  Salsify  do  not  all  ripen  equally  alike,  they 
should  be  sown  moderately  thick.  To  insure  a  regular 
crop,  five  or  six  pounds  should  be  allowed  for  an  acre  of 
ground,  or  two  ounces- for  every  three  perches. 

The  mode  of  cooking  recommended  by  an  American 
author  is,  "to  cut  the  roots  transversely  into  thin  pieces; 
boil  them  in  water,  or  milk  and  water ;  when  boiled  soft, 
mash  them,  and  thicken  the  whole  with  flour  to  some  degree 
of  stiffness ;  then  fry  them  in  the  fat  of  salt  pork,  or  butter ; 
they  are  a  luxury." 

.In  England  the  tops  are  considered  excellent  food  when 
boiled  tender,  and  served  up  with  poached  eggs  and  melted 
butter.  They  are  by  some  considered  salutary  for  persons 
inclined  to  consumption.  Those  afflicted  with  any  symp- 
toms indicating  an  approach  te  such  a  state  of  health,  can- 
not harm  themselves  by  eating  the  tops,  when  they  are  to 
be  got,  which  is  in  the  month  of  April,  and  if  the  roots  are 
eaten  when  attainable,  they  may,  perhaps,  answer  a  still 
better  purpose,  and  even  the  liquor  in  which  they  are  boiled 
may  possess  some  of  the  most  valuable  properties  of  the 
plant. 


SCORZONERA. 
SCORSONERE.     Scorzonera  Hispanica. 

THIS  plant  has  long  been  raised  in  British  gardens,  for 
culinary  purposes,  and  especially  as  an  ingredient  in  soups, 
OB  account  of  its  palatable  and  nourishing  roots.  Some  boil 
and  eat  them  like  Carrots,  &c.;  in  which  case  they  should  be 
deprived  of  their  rind,  and  immersed  in  cold  water  for  half 
an  hour,  or  they  will  be  bitter.  They  are  raised  precisely 
ia  the  same  manner  as  Salsify.  If  the  seed  be  sown,  in, 


o*  SEA-KALE. 

April,  in  a  good  deep  soil,  the  roots  will  attain  perfection  in 
Autumn,  and  continue  good  all  the  Winter.  They  last  from 
three  to  four  years,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  earth  and 
care  bestowed  on  them ;  but  it  is  better  to  raise  a  few  from 
seed  every  year. 

SEA-KALE. 

CHOU  MARIN.     Crambe  maritima. 

THIS  plant  is  found  on  the  sea-shore,  in  the  southern  parts 
of  England,  where  it  grows  spontaneously.  As  soon  as  it 
appears  above  ground,  the  inhabitants  remove  the  pebbles  or 
sand,  with  which  it  is  usually  covered,  to  the  depth  of  several 
inches,  and  cut  off  the  young  and  tender  leaves  and  stalks. 
as  yet  unexpanded  and  in  a  blanched  state,  close  to  the 
crown  of  the  root ;  it  is  then  in  its  greatest  perfection. 
When  the  leaves  are  full  grown,  they  become  hard  and 
bitter,  and  the  plant  is  not  eatable, 

It  is  cultivated  in  private  gardens,  and  for  sale  in  various 
parts  of  England.  Cultivators  have  differed  widely  res 
pecting  the  mode  of  treating  this  plant;  many  conceiving 
that  stones,  gravel  and  sea  sand,  are  essential  to  its  growth, 
have  gone  to  the  expense  of  providing  them ;  but  it  has 
been  discovered  that  it  will  grow  much  more  luxuriantly  in 
a  rich  sandy  loam,  where  the  roots  can  penetrate  to  a  great 
depth. 

The  seed  of  Sea-Kale  may  be  sown  in  October,  or  as 
early  in  the  Spring  as  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good 
condition,  in  drills  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  and  fourteen  or 
sixteen  inches  asunder ;  the  plants  should  be  afterwards 
thinned  out  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each 
other  in  the  rows,  and  kept  clear  of  weeds  by  frequent  hoe- 
ings  through  the  Summer.  When  the  plants  are  a  year  old, 
every  third  row  may  be  taken  up,  and  also  every  other  plant 
in  each  row,  leaving  them  fourteen  or  sixteen  inches  apart ; 
these  may  be  transplanted  into  good  ground  prepared  as 
directed  for  Asparagus.  Plant  two  rows  in  each  bed,  about 
inches  apart  j  tlje  best  way  is  to  make  two  drills 


SEA-KALE.  83 

three  inches  deep,  and  with  a  dibble  set  in  the  plants  fifteen 
or  sixteen  inches  from  each  other;  when  these  drills  are 
filled,  the  crowns  of  the  plants  will  be  covered  nearly  two 
inches,  but  they  will  soon  push  through  the  earth.  The 
plants  left  in  the  seed  bed  may  form  a  permanent  bed,  which 
should  be  forked  or  dug  between  the  rows ;  previous  to  this 
being  done,  lay  on  an  inch  or  two  of  good  rotten  manure, 
and  incorporate  it  with  the  earth  around  the  plants. 

Some  make  new  plantations  with  pieces  of  old  roots, 
which  should  be  cut  up  in  lengths  of  about  two  inches,  and 
planted  in  March  or  April,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  at  the 
distance  before  directed  for  the  plants. 

At  the  approach  of  Winter,  the  leaves  will  die  away,  and 
disappear.  The  beds  should  be  then  thickly  covered  with 
dung,  leaves,  or  sea  weed  ;  this  will  not  only  protect  the 
plants  from  frost,  but  will  cause  them  to  shoot  up  early  in 
the  Spring.  As  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  this 
may  be  taken  off,  or  if  well  rotted,  it  may  be  mixed  up  with 
the  earth;  the  crowns  of  the  plants  should  then  be  covered 
to  the  depth  often  or  twelve  inches  for  blanching. 

Some  blanch  it  by  heaping  on  it  sea  sand ;  some  common 
sand  and  gravel ;  and  others  with  large  garden  pots,  inverted 
and  placed  immediately  over  the  plants.  If  these  pots  be 
covered  up  with  fresh  horse  dung,  it  \vill  forward  the  shoots 
in  growth,  and  make  them  sweeter  and  more  tender. 

When  your  plants  have  been  covered  in  either  method 
three  or  four  weeks,  examine  them,  and  if  you  find  that  the 
stalks  have  shot  up  three  or  four  inches,  you  may  begin 
cutting  ;  should  you  wait  till  all  the  shoots  are  of  considera- 
ble length,  your  crop  will  come  in  too  much  at  once,  for  in 
this  plant  there  is  not  that  successive  growth  which  there  is 
in  Asparagus  ;  you  may  continue  cutting  until  you  see  the 
heads  of  flowers  begin  to  form ;  and  if  at  this  time  you 
uncover  it  entirely,  and  let  it  proceed  to  that  state  in  which 
Broccoli  is  usually  cut,  and  use  it  as  such,  you  will  find  it 
an  excellent  substitute  ;  and  this  greatly  enhances  the 
value  of  the  plant ;  as  Broccoli  does  not  stand  our  Winter 
frosts,  and  can  only  be  had  when  carefully  protected,  as 
recommended  under  that  head  ;  but  this  plant  is  sufficiently 


4  ISKIRRETv 

hardy  to  bear  our  Winter  frost,  without  much  injury.  You 
are  not  to  weaken  the  roots  too  much  by  over-cutting,  for  in 
that  case  it  would  injure  their  next  year's  bearing  :  some  of 
the  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  grow,  to  carry  on  a  proper 
vegetation,  to  strengthen  and  enlarge  the  roots.  Great  care 
should  be  taken  in  cutting,  not  to  injure  the  crowns  of  the 
roots  by  cutting  the  shoots  too  close  to  them.  Sea-Kale 
should  be  dressed  soon  after  it  is  cut,  as  the  goodness  of  the 
article  greatly  depends  on  its  not  being  long  exposed  to  the  air. 

If  you  choose  to  force  Sea-Kale,  dig  a  trench  all  round  a 
small  becL,  about  three  feet  wide>  and  thirty  inches  deep  ; 
fill  it  with  hot  dung,  and  as  it  sinks,  raise  it.  This  will 
make  the  plants  grow  ;  and  if  hand  lights  are  set  over  them, 
it  will  accelerate  their  growth. 

To  have  this  rare  vegetable  in  perfection,  it  should  be 
cooked  as  soon  as  gathered.  Let  it  be  first  soaked  in  water, 
seasoned  with  salt,  for  half  an  hour  ;  then  wash  it  in  fresh 
water,  and  put  it  into  the  cooking  utensil ;  keep  it  boiling 
briskly.,  skim  clean,  and  let  off  steam.  When  the  stalks  are 
tender,  which  may  be  expected  in  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
minutes,  according  to  size  and  age,  take  it  up,  dish  it,  and 
serve  it  up  with  melted  butter,  gravy,  and  such  condiments 
as  may  be  most  agreeable  to  the  palate. 


SKIRRET. 

CHERVIS,  ou  GYROLE.     Sium  sisarum. 

THIS  plant  is  first  cultivated  by  seed,  and  afterwards  by 
offsets  taken  from  the  old  roots,  and  planted  very  early  in 
tlie  Spring,  and  before  they  begin  to  shoot ;  but  it  is  best  to 
raise  a  small  bed  from  seed  every  year,  as  the  roots  grow 
longer  than  those  raised  from  slips,  and  are  less  liable  to  be 
sticky.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  the  latter  part  of 
March,  or  early  in  April,  and  managed  the  same  as  Salsify, 
Parsnips,  &c.  In  Autumn,  when  the  leaves  begin  to  decay, 
the  roots  are  fit  to  use,  and  continue  so  till  they  begin  to 
shoot  in  the  Spring. 


SHALLOT.  85 

Skirrets  should  be  planted  in  a  light,  moist  soil,  for  in  dry 
land  the  roots  are  generally  small,  unless  the  season  proves 
wet. 

The  root  of  the  Skirret  is  composed  of  several  fleshy 
tubers  as  large  as  a  man's  finger,  and  joined  together  at  the 
top.  They  are  eaten  boiled,  and  stewed  with  butter,  pepper 
and  salt,  or  rolled  in  flour  and  fried,  or  else  cold,  with  oil 
and  vinegar,  being  first  boiled.  They  have  much  of  the 
taste  and  flavor  of  a  Parsnip,  and  are  by  some  considered  a 
great  deal  more  palatable. 


SHALLOT. 

ECHALOTE.     Allium  ascalonicum. 

The  true  Shallot,  is  a  native  of  Palestine,  and  is  considered 
to  possess  the  most  agreeable  flavor  of  any  of  the  Allium 
genus  ;  it  is  consequently  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

It  is  propagated  by  planting  bulbs,  or  offset?,  in  the  fall 
of  the  year,  which  may  be  set  out  with  a  dibble,  in  rows 
twelve  inches  apart,  by  four  or  six  inches  distance  in  the 
rows  ;  or  they  may  be  placed  in  drills,  two  or  three  inches 
deep,  and  covered  up  with  a  trowel  or  hoe. 

The  gardeners  about  New- York  plant  large  quantities  of 
the  bulbs  towards  the  end  of  August,  and  early  in  Septem- 
ber ;  by  this  means  they  are  enabled  t6  supply  the  market 
in  April  and  May  with  a  mild  Allium,  which  while  green 
meets  a  ready  sale. 

Tho?e  intended  for  seed  may  remain  in  the  ground  until 
June  or  July,  after  the  tops  die  down,  the  bulbs  must  be 
taken  up,  and  the  offsets  divided  :  these  should  be  kept  in 
a  dry  place  to  plant  the  ensuing  Autumn. 

It  will  require  at  least  four  bushels  of  bulbs,  if  measured 
when  fitst  taken  from  the  ground,  to  plant  a  quarter  of  an 
acre  ;  because  after  they  are  trimmed  and  deprived  of  their 
seed  stalks,  the  bulk  will  be  reduced  one  half. 


8 


86 
SPINACH,  OR  SPINAGE. 

EPINARD.     Spinacia. 

VARIETIES. 

Large  Round-leaved.  Holland  or  Lamb's  Quarter* 

Broad-leaved  Savoy.  New  Zealand. 

THE  Spinacia  oleracea,  or  common  Spinach,  is  very 
hardy,  and  consequently  a  very  important  vegetable  for  cold 
climates.  It  merits  attention,  from  its  being  extremely 
wholesome  and  palatable,  and  from  its  keeping  green  even 
after  having  been  cooked.  It  makes  a  delicious  dish  when 
served  up  with  the  gravy  of  roast  meat,  melted  butter,  &c. 

As  Spinach  is  the  only  vegetable  that  can  be  raised  to 
advantage  the  latter  end  of  the  year,  the  gardener  should 
prepare  such  ground  as  may  have  been  occupied  by  Summer 
crops,  towards  the  end  of  August,  and  by  having  it  well 
manured  for  this  crop,  it  will  be  in  good  condition  for  Beets, 
Carrots,  Parsnips,  Turnips,  &c.,  the  Spring  follow:'ng. 

If  the  ground  be  got  ready,  so  as  to  have  several  beds 
sown  in  succession,  from  the  first  to  the  end  of  September, 
the  forwardest  of  these,  if  covered  up  with  straw  at  the 
approach  of  cold  weather,  will  furnish  greens  for  the  table 
when  other  vegetables  are  scarce,  and  the  latter  crops  will 
recover  the  effects  of  a  hard  Winter,  and  produce  a  whole- 
some vegetable  early  in  the  Spring. 

If  Spinach  seed  be  sown  in  rich  ground  in  March  and 
April,  it  will  grow  freely,  but  it  must  be  cut  before  the 
approach  of  hot  weather,  or  it  will  run  to  seed.  To  raise 
it  in  perfection  at  this  season,  it  should  be  sown  in  drills 
about  a  foot  apart,  and  kept  cultivated  by  frequent  hoeing ; 
this  will  keep  it  in  a  growing  state,  and  consequently  pre- 
vent its  running  up  to  seed  so  quick  as  it  otherwise  would 

It  is  altogether  useless  to  sow  Spinach  seed  in  poor  ground  ; 
let  the  ground  be  well  manured  with  good  strong  dung,  and 
it  will  well  reward  you  for  your  trouble  by  its  abundant 
produce. 

If  Spinach  be  cultivated  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  it  will 
fequre  from  seven  to  eight  pounds  of  seed  to  plant  an  acre 


SQUASH.  8T 

of  ground.  Some  gardeners  use  more  than  double  that 
quantity  in  sowing  broadcast. 

Be  careful  to  pick  Spinach  exceedingly  clean,  and  wash 
it  in  five  or  six  waters  previous  to  cooking  it.  Some  cook 
Spinach  in  a  steamer  over  boiling  water,  others  boil  it  in 
water;  but  the  best  way  is  to  put  it  into  a  saucepan  that 
will  just  hold  it,  without  water,  then  strew  a  little  salt  upon 
It,  and  cover  it  close.  Put  your  saucepan  on  a  clear  quick 
fire  ;  and  when  you  find  the  Spinach  shrunk  and  fallen  to 
the  bottom,  and  the  juice  which  comes  from  it  boil  up,  it  is 
done.  In  order  that  it  be  rendered  capable  of  absorbing  a 
moderate  quantity  of  gravy,  melted  butter,  &c.  which  are 
indispensable  with  green  vegetables,  let  it  be  well  drained 
in  a  sieve,  or  colander,  before  it  is  dished. 

The  New  Zealand  Spinach  or  Tetragona  expansa,  is  of 
late  introduction  into  this  country  ;  its  nature  seems  to  be 
opposite  to  the  common  Spinach,  as  it  will  endure  the  heat 
better  than  the  cold.  It  may  be  obtained  in  the  summer, 
by  planting  the  seeds  in  April  and  May.  Being  of  luxuriant 
growth,  it  should  be  planted  in  hills  three  feet  apart,  and 
about  two  seeds  in  a  hill.  The  leaves  will  be  fit  for  use 
during  the  Summer,  and  until  late  in  the  Autumn, 


SQUASH. 

GOURDE   GIRAUMON  ou  POTIRON,     Cycurbita  rnelopepa. 

VARIETIES, 

Early  Bush  Squash.  Vegetable  Marrow. 

Early  Crookneck,  Winter  Crookneck. 

Large  Cushaw.  Lima  Cocoanut. 

THE  several  varieties  of  Squashes  are  very  useful  in  this 
and  other  warm  climates,  as  they  can  be  grown  in  perfection 
in  the  Summer,  and  therefore  prove  a  good  substitute  for 
Turnips,  which  cannot  be  raised  in  perfection  in  hot  wea^ 
ther.  They  should  be  planted  in  hills,  prepared  in  the  same 
manner  as  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  and  their  subsequent 
management  is  the  same  in  every  respect.  The  bush  kinds 


88  TOMATO. 

should  be  planted  three  or  four  feet  apart,  and  the  running 
kinds  from  six  to  nine,  according  to  their  nature,  as  some 
will  run  more  than  others.  It  is  always  best  to  plant  five  or 
six  seeds  in  a  hill,  to  guard  against  accidents  ;  as  when  the 
plants  are  past  danger,  they  can  be  thinned  to  two  or  three 
in  a  hill.  One  ounce  of  Squash  Seed  will  plant  from  fifty 
to  one  hundred  hills,  according  to  the  sorts  and  size  of  the 
seed. 

The  fruit  of  the  Early  Summer  Squashes  is  generally 
gathered  for  use  before  the  skin  gets  hard,  and  while  it  is  so 
tender  as  to  give  way  to  a  moderate  pressure  of  the  thumb 
nail.  The  Winter  Squasbes  should  be  suffered  to  ripen,  and 
collected  together  in  October,  in  the  manner  recommended 
in  the  calendar  for  that  month. 

All  kinds  of  Squashes  should,  after  having  been  boiled 
tender  be  pressed  as  close  as  possible  between  two  wooden 
trenchers,  or  by  means  of  a  slice  or  skimmer,  made  of  the 
same  materials,  until  dry,  and  then  prepared  for  the  table 
in  the  same  manner  as  Turnips. 


TOMATO. 

TOMATE,  ou  POMME  D'AMOUR.     Solarium  lycopcrsicuni. 

VARIETIES. 
Large  Squash-shaped.  j  Cherry-shaped. 

THE  Tomato,  or  Love  Apple^  is  much  cultivated  for  its 
fruit,  in  soups  and  sauces,  to  which  it  imparts  an  agreeable 
acid  flavour  ;  it  is  also  stewed  and  dressed  in  various  ways, 
and  is  considered  very  wholesome. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  March,  in  a  slight  hot- 
bed, and  the  plants  set  out  in  the  open  ground,  if  settled 
warm  weather,  in  the  early  part  of  May.  Tn  private  gar- 
dens it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  them  near  a  fence,  or  to 
provide  trellises  for  tbem  to  be  trained  to,  in  the  manner 
recommended  for  Nasturtiums ;  they  will,  bowever,  do 
very  well,  if  planted  out  four  feet  distant  from  each  other 
every  way. 


TOMATOE.  89 

Tomatoes  may  he  brought  to  perfection  late  in  the  sum- 
mer, by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  open  ground  the  first  week 
in  May  ;  these  plants  will  be  fit  to  transplant  early  in  June, 
and  the  fruit  may  ripen  in  time  for  preserves  or  Catsup. 

One  ounce  of  good  Tomato  Seed  will  produce  upwards 
of  four  thousand  plants  ;  and  a  single  plant  has  been  known 
to  yield  upwards  of  a  bushel  of  fruit. 

Tomatoes  may  be  preserved  in  a  stone  or  glazed  earthen 
pot,  for  use  in  the  Winter,  by  covering  them  with  water  in 
which  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salt  has  been  dissolved  to 
make  it  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg.  Select  perfectly 
ripe  berries,  and  cover  the  pot  with  a  plate  in  such  a  man. 
ner  that  it  presses  upon  the  fruit  without  bruising  it. — Pre- 
vious to  cooking  these  Tomatoes,  they  should  be  soaked  in 
fresh  water  for  several  hours. 

Besides  the  various  modes  of  preparing  this  delicious 
vegetable  for  the  table,  it  may  be  preserved  in  sugar,  and 
used  either  as  a  dessert,  or  on  the  tea-table,  as  a  substitute 
fox  Peaches  or  other  sweetmeats.  It  also  makes  exquisite 
pies  and  tarts,  and  excellent  catsup. 

A  celebrated  writer  observes,  that  "  the  common  Tomatoe 
made  into  a  gravy,,  by  stewing  over  the  fire,  and  used  as  a 
sauce  for  meat,  has  been  known  to  quicken  the  action  of 
the  liver  and  of  the  bowels,  better  than  any  medicine  he 
ever  made  use  of.;>  He  states  further,  that — "  When 
afflicted  with  inaction  of  the  bowels,  head-ache,  a  bad  taste 
of  the  mouth,  straitness  of  the  chest,  and  a  dull  and  painful 
heaviness  of  the  region  of  the  liver,  the  whole  of  these 
symptoms  are  removed  by  Tomatoe  sauce,  and  the  mind, 
in  the  course  of  some  few  hours,,  is  put  in  perfect  tune." 

To  make  them  into  catsup,  use  one  pint  of  salt  to  one 
peck  of  Tomatoes ;  bruise  them,  and  let  them  stand  two* 
days ;  then  strain  them  dry,  and  boil  the  juice  until  the 
scum  stops  rising,  with  two  ounces  of  black  pepper,  the 
same  quantity  of  pimento  or  allspice,  one  ounce  of  ginger,. 
«tfie  of  cloves,  and  half  an  ounce  of  mace. 


8* 


90 
TURNIP. 

NAVET.     Brassica  rapa. 


Early  Garden  Stone. 
Early  White  Dutch. 
Swan's  Egg. 
Early  Reef  Top. 
Strap  Leaved  Red  Top. 
Early  GreeiiTop. 
Yellow  Stone. 
Long  Yellow  French. 


VARIETIES. 

^   -       Large  English  Norfolk. 

Long  Tankard,  or  Hanover. 

White  Flat,  or  Globe. 
c.  |     Large  Bullock. 
^  j     Yellow  Altringham. 

Dale's  Yellow  Hybrid. 

Yellow  Aberdeen. 

Russia,  Swedish,  or  Ruta  Baga. 


THIS  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  plant,  both  for  man  and 
beast,  and  highly  deserving  of  cultivation.  Its  being  the 
last  esculent  vegetable  on  our  catalogue,  that  is  raised  from 
seed  sold  at  our  several  seed  stores,  I  shall  endeavour  to 
stimulate  those  of  our  yeomanry  who  have  hitherto  neg- 
lected the  culture  of  this  field  as  well  as  garden  production, 
to  exertion  and  diligence,  by  inserting  a  few  extracts  from 
a  paper  that  now  lies  before  me. 

"  Culture  of  Turnips. — Until  the  beginning  of  the  eigh- 
teenth century,  this  valuable  root  was  cultivated  only  in 
gardens,  or  other  small  spots,  for  culinary  purposes  ;  but 
Lord  Town  send,  who  attended  King  George  the  First  in 
one  of  his  excursions  to  Germany,  in  the  quality  of  Secre- 
tary of  State,  observed  the  Turnip  cultivated  in  open  and 
extensive  fields,  as  fodder  for  cattle,  and  spreading  fertility 
over  lands  naturally  barren,  on  his  return  to  England, 
brought  over  some  of  the  seed,  and  strongly  recommended 
the  practice  which  he  had  witnessed,  to  the  adoption  of  his 
own  tenants,  who  occupied  a  soil  similar  to  that  of  Hanover. 
The  experiment  succeeded ;  the  cultivation  of  Field  Tur- 
nips gradually  spread  over  the  whole  county  of  Norfolk, 
and  has  made  its  way  into  every  other  district  of  England. 
The  reputation  of  the  county  as  an  agricultural  district, 
dates  from  the  vast  improvements  of  heaths,  wastes,  sheep 
walks,  and  warrens,  by  enclosing  and  manuring  ;  the  fruits 
of  the  zealous  exertions  of  Lord  Townsend,  and  a  few 
neighbouring  land  owners,  which  were,  ere  long,  imitated 
by  others.  Since  these  improvements  were  effected,  rents 


TURNIP.  91 

have  risen  in  that  county  from  one  or  two  shillings  to  twenty 
shillings  an  acre  ;  a  county  consisting  chiefly  of  sheep  walks 
and  rabbit  warrens,  has  been  rendered  highly  productive  ; 
and,  by  dint  of  management,  what  was  thus  gained  has  been 
preserved  and  improved  to  the  present  moment.  Some  of 
the  linest  grain  crops  in  the  world  are  now  growing  upon 
land,  which,  before  the  introduction  of  the  Turnip  husbandry, 
produced  a  very  scanty  supply  of  grass  for  a  few  lean  and 
half-starved  rabbits. 

"  Mr.  Colquhoun,  in  his  '  Statistical  Researches,'  estima- 
ted the  value  of  the  Turnip  crop  annually  growing  in  the 
United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  at  fourteen 
million  pounds  sterling,  (equal  to  upwards  of  SIXTY  MILLIONS 
OFDOLLAR3.)  But  when  we  further  recollect,  that  it  enables 
the  agriculturist  to  reclaim  and  cultivate  land,  which  with- 
out its  aid,  would  remain  in  a  hopeless  state  of  natural 
barrenness,  that  it  leaves  the  land  clean  and  in  fine  condition, 
and  also  to  insure  a  good  crop  of  Barley,  and  a  kind  plant 
of  Clover;  and  that  this  Clover  is  found  a  most  excellent 
preparative  for  Wheat,  it  will  appear  that  the  subsequent 
advantages  derived  from  a  crop  of  Turnips  must  infinitely 
exceed  its  estimated  value  as  fodder  for  cattle."  (Sir  Wil- 
liam Scott  in  the  Quaterly  Review.)  As  I  have  undertaken 
to  "  assist  the  Young  Gardener,"  I  shall  proceed  to  point 
out  the  most  proper  means  of  cultivating  this  truly  valuable 
vegetable  in  his  garden. 

The  preceding  remarks  show  the  kind  of  land  that  may 
be  made  capable  of  producing  not  only  Turnips,  but  other 
things  of  equal  value.  It  must  however  be  granted,  that 
some  soils  naturally  suit  particular  kinds  of  vegetables  better 
than  others,  and  that  in  general,  exotic  plants  will  succeed 
best  in  such  soils  as  are  nearest  like  their  own  native  soil. 
As  we  have  not  always  a  choice,!  would  inform  the  Young 
Gardener,  if  he  has  a  very  light  soil  which  is  not  suitable 
for  vegetables  in  general,  he  may  sometimes  get  two  crops 
of  Turnips  from  it  in  one  year,  by  sowing  seed  for  the  first 
crop  early  in  March,  and  that  for  his  second  in  the  middle 
of  August.  For  general  crops,  it  will  be  better  to  have 
ground  manured  with  short  rotten  dung,  or  compost  con- 


H5*  TURNIP. 

taining  a  considerable  proportion  of  coal,  wood,  peat,  or 
soaper's  ashes.  Ground  that  has  been  well  manured  for 
preceding  crops,  and  also  ground  fresh  broken  up,  will  suit 
well  for  Turnips. 

Previous  to  sowing  Turnip  seed,  the  gardener  should 
procure  a  suitable  quantity  of  lime,  soot,  or  tobacco  dust,  so 
as  to  be  prepared  for  the  attacks  of  insects.  It  should  be 
recollected  that  Turnip  seed  will  sometimes  sprout  within 
forty-eight  hours  after  it  is  sown,  and  that  very  frequently 
whole  crops  are  devoured  before  a  plant  is  seen  above 
ground.  A  peck  of  either  of  these  ingredients,  mixed  with 
about  an  equal  quantity  of  ashes,  or  even  dry  road  dust, 
sown  morning  and  evening  for  the  first  week  after  sowing 
the  seed,  would  secure  an  acre  of  ground,  provided  it  be  so 
contrived  that  the  wind  carry  it  over  the  whole  piece  of 
land,  and  as  it  often  changes,  this  may  be  effected  by  cross- 
ing the  land  in  a  different  direction  every  time  according  as 
the  wind  may  serve. 

As  some  very  erroneous  ideas  have  been  extensively  cir- 
culated in  respectable  periodicals,  respecting  the  cultivation 
of  this  valuable  root,  I  would  earnestly  recommend  that 
particular  attention  be  paid  to  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed, 
for  if  the  first  crop  be  not  sown  soon  enough*  to  be  gathered 
early  in  July,  they  are  seldom  fit  for  the  table,  being  hot, 
stringy,  and  wormy  ;  and  if  the  crop  intended  for  Autumn 
and  Winter  use  be  sown  long  before  August,  unless  it  be  a 
very  favourable  season^  if  even  they  escape  the  attacks  of 
insects  and  reptiles,  they  often  get  so  defective,  that  they 
seldom  keep  the  >Vinter. 

To  have  Turnips  in  perfection,  they  should  be  hoed  in 
about  a  month  after  they  are  sown,,  or  by  the  time  the  plants 
spread  a  circle  of  about  four  inches,  and  again,  in  about  a 
month  from  the  first  hoeing,  leaving  them  from  six  to  nine 
inches  apart,  they  will  yield  the  cultivator  more  profit  this 
way,  than  when  left  to  nature,  as.  is  too  frequently  done. 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  one  pound  of  Turnip  seed  is 
amply  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  ground,  yet  some  will  use 
considerably  more, because  of  the  difficulty  of  distributing  so 
small  a  quantity  of  seed  regularly  broadcast.  This,  difficulty 


TURNIP.  93 

is  however  obviated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  drills,  and 
although  it  may  seem  a  tedious  process  to  those  who  ha?e 
no  other  means  of  doing  it  than  by  hand,  the  facilities 
afforded  of  hoeing  between  the  rows,  more  than  compen- 
sates for  the  extra  labour. 

I  once  induced  a  friend  of  mine  to  sow  four  ounces  of 
Turnip  seed,  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  by  which  means  he  made 
it  extend  over  upwards  of  half  an  acre  of  land  ;  and  by  hoe- 
ing the  plants  twice,  he  had  the  gratification  of  pulling  four 
hundred  bushels  of  handsome  Turnips,  which  is  more  than 
is  generally  taken  from  an  acre  of  land  cultivated  in  tire 
ordinary  way. 

The  most  esteemed  kinds  of  Turnips  for  gardens,  are 
marked  in  the  catalogue,  I  shall  therefore  leave  my  readers 
to  their  own  choice. 

As  the  Yellow  Swedish,  or  Russian  Turnip,  or  Ruta 
Baga,  is  in  great  repute,  I  shall  quote  a  few  lines  from  the 
u  American  Gardener,"  by  William  Cobbett,  the  great  advo- 
cate for  Ruta  Daga. 

II  The  Swedish  Turnip,  so  generally  preferred  for  table 
use  here,  and  so  seldom  used  for  the  table  in  England,  ought 
to  be  sown  early  in  June,  in  rows  a  foot  apart,  and  thinned 
to  three  inches  in  the  rows.     About  the  middle  of  July  they 
should  be  transplanted  upon  ridges  three  feet  apart,  (in  a 
garden,)  and  during  their  growth,  ought  to  be  kept  clear  of 
weeds,  and  to  be  dug  between,  twice  at  least,  as  deep  as  a 
good  spade  can  be  made  to  go ;  but  the  Swedish  Turnip  is 
of  further  use  as  producing  the  most  excellent  greens  in  the 
Spring,  and  at  a  very  early  season.     To  draw  this  benefit 
from  them,  the  best  way  is  to  leave  a  row  or  two  in  the 
ground,  and  when  the  Winter  is  about  to  set  in,  cover  them 
all  over  with  straw,  or  cedar  boughs.     Take  these  off  when 
the  Winter  breaks  up,  and  you  will  have  very  early  and 
most  excellent  greens ;  and  when  you  have   done  with  the 
greens,  the  Turnips  are  very  good  to  eat." 

If  seeds  of  the  Russia  Turnip  be  sown  in  drills,  about 
the  middle  of  July,  or  even  early  in  August,  they  will  mak« 
fine  roots  by  Autumn,  without  transplanting,  provided  the 
ground  be  good,  and  well  worked.  When  the  plants  are 


94 


AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 


up  strong,  they  must  be  hoed  and  thinned  to  the  distance  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  from  each  other ;  another  hoeing 
will  be  necessary  in  five  or  six  weeks  afterwards.     This 
will  make  them  grow  freely. 

The  Turnip  is  a  favourite  vegetable  with  some,  and  in 
England,  a  leg  of  mutton  and  caper  sauce  is  considered  by 
epicures  as  but  half  a  dish  without  mashed  Turnips.  To 
have  them  in  perfection,  they  should,  after  having  been  de- 
prived of  their  rind,  be  equalized  by  cutting  the  largest  trans- 
versely in  the  centre,  and  then  after  being  boiled  tender,  let 
them  be  taken  up,  and  pressed  as  dry  as  possible  ;  at  the 
same  time,  let  a  lump  of  butter  and  a  due  portion  of  Cayenne 
pepper  and  salt  be  added,  and  be  beaten  up  with  the  Tur- 
nips until  properly  mixed.  Use  the  natural  gravy  from  the 
meat  unadulterated,  and  such  condiment  as  may  be  most 
esteemed. 


AROMATIC,  POT,  AND   SWEET  HERBS. 

GRAINES  D'HERBES  AROMATIQUES,  ODORIFERANTES  ET 
A  L'USAGE  DE  LA  CUISINE. 


Angelica  Garden, 

Anise, 

Basil  Sweet, 

Borage, 

Burnet  Garden, 

Caraway, 

Chervil,  or  Cicely  the  Sweet, 

Clary, 

Coriander, 

Dill, 

*  Fennel,  Common, 

*  do.      Sweet, 
Mangold,  Pot, 

*  Marjoram,  Sweet, 

*  Mint,  Fpear, 

*  do.     Pepper, 

*  do.    Pennyroyal, 

*  Sage,  Common, 

*  Sage,  Red, 
Savory,  Summer, 

*  dp.      Winter^ 


Angelica  atropurpurea. 
Pimpinella  anisum. 
Ocymum  basilicum. 
Borago  qfficinalis. 
Poturium  sanguisorba. 
Carum  carui. 

Scandix  odorata  cerefoliwfrk. 
Salvia  sclara. 
Coriandrum  sativum. 
Anethum  graveolens, 
do.    f&niculum. 
do.    dulce. 
Calendula  officinalis. 
Origanum  marjoranOr. 
Mentha  virides. 

do.    piperita. 

do.    pulegium. 
Salvia  officinalis. 

do.      clandestinoid.es* 
Satureja  hortensis. 
do. 


MEDICINAL    HERBS.  95 

^Tarragon,  Artemisia  dracunculus. 

*  Thyme,  Common,  Thymus  vulgaris. 

*  do.     Lemon,  do.    serpyllum. 

Aromatic  Herbs  are  such  as  impart  a  strong  spicy  odour 
and  savoury  taste ;  many  of  them  are  used  as  small  pot  herbs, 
and  for  sauces,  stuffings,  and  other  uses  in  cooking.  As 
only  a  small  quantity  of  these  are  necessary  in  private  gap- 
dens,  a  bye  corner  may  be  allotted  for  them,  and  such  mecfi- 
cal  herbs  as  may  be  wanted  in  a  family. 

It  may  be  necessary  for  me  to  explain,  as  we  go  along, 
that  there  are  three  principal  descriptive  names  given  to 
plants,  namely,  Annuals,  Biennials,  and  Perennials.  The 
Annuals  being  but  of  one  season's  duration,  are  raised  every 
year  from  seed.  The  Biennials  are  raised  from  seed  one  year, 
continue  till  the  second,  then  perfect  their  seed,  and  soon 
after  die ;  some  of  these  should  be  also  raised  every  year 
from  seed.  The  Perennials  may  be  also  raised  from  seed, 
but  when  once  raised,  they  will  continue  on  the  same  roots 
many  years.  Those  marked  *  are  of  the  latter  description? 
and  may  be  propagated  by  suckers,  offsets,  cuttings,  or 
partings,  of  the  roots.  Those  who  have  not  already  a 
plantation  of  these  herbs,  may  sow  seeds  of  any  of  the 
different  kinds  in  March  or  April,  in  drills  about  an  inch 
deep,  and  twelve  inches  apart,  each  kind  by  itself.  The 
plants  may  be  afterwards  transplanted  into  separate  beds  ; 
or,  if  a  drill  for  each  kind  be  drawn  two  feet  apart,  the  seed 
may  be  sown  in  them,  and  the  plants  afterwards  thinned  out 
to  proper  distances,  according  to  the  natural  growth  of  the 
different  kinds  of  plants. 


PLANTS  CULTIVATED  FOR  MEDICINAL  AND; 
OTHER  PURPOSES. 

GRAINES  DE  PLANTES  MEDICINAL. 

Bene,  Scsamum  orientate. 

Boneset,  or  Thoroughwort,  Eupatorium  perfoliatum. 

*  Balm,  Melissa  qfficinalis. 

Bean,  Castor  Oil)  Recinus  communis. 


MEDICINAL    HERBS. 


Burdock, 

Catnep, 

Celandine, 

*  Chamomile, 

*  Comfrey, 

*  Elecampane, 
Feverfew, 

*  Horehound, 

*  Horseraint, 

*  Hyssop, 

*  Lavender, 
Lovage, 

*  Mallow,  Marsh, 

*  Motherwort, 

*  Patience  Dock, 

*  Pinkroot,  Carolina, 
Poppy  Opium,  (annual,) 

*  Rosemary, 

*  Rue,  Garden, 
Saffron,  Bastard, 
Scullcap,  or  Mad  Dog  Plant, 
Snakeroot,  Virginian. 

*  Sorrel, 

*  Southernwood, 

*  Speedwell,  Virginian, 

*  Spikenard, 

*  Tansy, 

*  Wormwood, 


Arctium  lappa. 
Nepeta  cataria. 
Chelidonum  majus. 
Anthemis  nobUis. 
Spmphytum  officinale. 
Inula  hdenium. 
Chrysanthemum  partJtenium. 
Marubiam  vulgare. 
Monarda  punctata. 
Hys^opus  officinalis. 
L-dvendula  Spica. 
Ligusticum  Icvisticum, 
Althea  officinalis. 
Leonurus  cardiaca. 
Rumex  patcntia. 
Spigdia  Marylandica. 
Papaver  somnifcrum 

Rosmarinus  officinalis. 

Ruta  grateolcns. 

Carthamus  tinctorius. 

Scutcllaria  latcriflora. 

Aristolochia  scrpcntaria. 

Rumex  acctosa, 

Artemisia  abrotamtm.    " 

Veronica  Virginica. 

Aralia  raccmosa. 

Tanacetum  vulgarc. 

Artemisia  absinthium. 


THE  generality  of  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  herbs, 
may  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  March  and  April.  The 
greater  part  of  the  above  described  plants  are  Perennial,  and 
will  multiply  from  seeds  they  drop,  or  from  partings  from 
the  roots.  The  offsets,  roots,  or  young  plants  thus  raised, 
should  be  planted  at  suitable  distances  from  each  other 
early  in  the  Spring. 

The  beds  should  be  afterwards  kept  free  from  weeds,  and 
as  the  herbs  come  into  flower,  they  should  be  cut  on  a  dry 
day,  and  spread  in  a  shady  place  to  dry  for  Winter  use.  The 
best  way  to  preserve  them  after  they  are  dried,  is  to  rub 
them,  so  as  to  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  then  pack  them  in 
bottles  or  boxes,  each  kind  separate  ;  they  should  be  after- 
wards kept  in  a  dry  place. 


AROMATIC    HERBS,    &C>  .  97 

In  the  month  of  October,  the  herb  beds  should  be  ex- 
amined. Lavender,  Rosemary,  and  other  tender  plants, 
should  be  taken  up,  potted,  and  placed  in  a  frame  or  green- 
house for  the  Winter.  Thyme,  Hyssop,  Winter  Savory, 
Southern  wood,  Sage,  Rue,  and  the  like,  will  require  their 
tops  to  be  neatly  dressed  ;  and  Pot  Marjoram,  Burnet, 
Tarragon,  Tansey,  Pennyroyal,  Sorrel,  Chamomile,  Fennel, 
Horehound,  Mint,  Lovage,  and  other  kinds  of  hardy  peren- 
nial herbs,  should  be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground. 

After  this  is  done,  it  will  be  proper  to  dig  lightly,  and 
loosen  the  ground  between  the  roots  of  the  shrubby  plants ; 
but  the  beds  of  close-growing  running  plants,  such  as  Mint, 
Running  Thyme,  and  all  other  creeping  herbs,  will  not  well 
admit  of  digging;  therefore,  after  the  stalks  are  cut  down, 
and  the  beds  cleared  of  weeds,  dig  the  alleyo,  and  strew 
some  of  the  loose  earth  evenly  over  the  beds ;  and  if  the 
ground  be  rather  poor  or  light,  a  top  dressing  of  very  rotten 
dung  will  be  of  considerable  service. 

This  dressing  will  give  proper  nurture  and  protection  to 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  a  neat  appearance  to  the  garden,  and 
in  Spring  the  shoots  will  rise  with  renewed  vigour. 

Having  finished  the  catalogue,  I  proceed  to  give  direc- 
tions for  making  the  most  of  a  piece  of  ground  well  ma- 
nured for  early  crops.  In  the  general  directions  at  the  com- 
mencement, I  observed  that  good  rich  manure  was  indis- 
pensably necessary  t»  the  production  of  some  particular 
kinds  of  vegetables ;  it  may  be  further  observed,  that  rich 
ground  will  produce  two  or  three  valuable  crops,  but  it  re- 
quires  some  attention  to  make  use  of  it  to  the  best  ad  vantage. 
If  the  gardener  has  leisure  to  dig  such  ground  in  March  or 
April,  as  he  intends  for  Beans,  Cucumbers,  Tomatoes,  Egg- 
plants, or  other  tender  plants,  he  may  raise  Radishes, 
Spinach,  Lettuce,  or  other  small  Salads  on  it,  by  leaving  a 
space  for  his  hills  or  drills  ;  or  Radish  seed  may  be  sown 
lightly  over  the  beds  of  Beets,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  &e.,  but 
they  must  not  be  suffered  to  run  to  seed,  as  this  would  injure 
the  other  plants*  When  the  first  crops  are  gathered,  it 
requires  a  little  consideration  before  a  second  is  planted,  in 
order  that  a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  best  ground  be 

9 


98  FLAW   OP    BE0S,  &C. 

reserved  for  the  most  particular  and  valuable   varieties   of 
vegetables. 

That  I  may  be  understood,  I  have  adopted  the  following' 
plans,  representing  beds  of  earth  ;  this  will  answer  the  same 
purpose  as  bringing  my  readers  on  the  ground. 


No.  1.     The  following  lines  represent  drills  six  inches  apart: 
Marsh  25. — Sow  Parsley,  Onion,  or  other  small  seeds. 


Sow  Radish  seed. 


Sow  Parsley,  Onion,  or  other  small  seeds. 


The  Radishes  being  pulled  early  in  May,  leaves  the  inter- 
mediate ground  for  the  other  plants. 


No.  2.     Drills  ten  inches  apart  -T 


April  1. — Sow  Spinach,  or  Radish  seed. 


15. — Plant  early  Cabbage  Plants. 


April  1. — Sow  Spinach,  or  Radish  seed. 


By  the  time  the  Cabbage  requires  the  whole  of  the  ground, 
the  Spinach  or  Radishes  may  be  gathered. 

If  this  bed  be  cleared  of  the  second  crop  by  the  middle  of 
July,  it  may  be  planted  with  Celery,  Turnip,  or  Black 


PLAN    OF    BEDS,    &C.  .  99 

Radish  seed.  If  the  Cabbage  be  of  the  late  heading  kinds,  the 
ground  may  be  reserved  for  the  first  sowing  of  Spinach, 
Fetticus,  Lettuce,  &-c.  in  which  case  it  will  require  a  fresh 
coat  of  manure. 

No.  3.    Drills  10  or  12  inches  apart. 


March  20. — Plant  slips  or  cuttings  of  Horse  Radish. 


Plant  Turnip-rooted  Beet  seed,  (see  page  59.) 


Plant  slips  or  cuttings  of  Horse  Radish. ' 

If  required,  a  light  crop  of  Radishes  may  be  raised  on 
this  bed,  which  should  be  pulled  while  young. 

Hoe  and  thin  out  the  Beets  as  they  progress  in  growth, 
and  when  full  grown,  they  may  be  gathered,  without  dis- 
turbing the  Horse  Radish. 

No.  4. — Rows,  or  drills,  fourteen  inches  apart : 
March  20.— Plant  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 


Do.  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 


Hoe  them  the  first  week  in  April — previous  to  hoeing  the 
second  time,  draw  a  drill  between  each  row  of  plants,  and 
plant  Beet  or  Carrot  seed  ;  this  may  be  covered  up  in 


100  PLAN    OF    BEDS,    &C. 

hoeing  the  Lettuce,  and  by  the  time  the  plants  are  up  strong,, 
the  Lettuce  will  be  fit  to  cut.  If  these  roots  are  well  attended 
to,  they  may  be  cleared  off  soon  enough  to  produce  Fall 
Cabbage,  Leeks,  Celery,  Turnips,  Black  Radishes,  &c, 

No.  5. — Rows  or  drills,  sixteen  inches  apart. 


March  25.— Plant  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 


Do.  Hardy  Lettuce  Plants. 


April  20.— Plant  Early  York  Cabbage  Plants,  either  between  the  row 
or  between  the  Lettuce. 


As  soon  as  the  Lettuce  is  off,  hoe  the  Cabbage,  and  it 
will  soon  cover  the  ground. 

This  ground  will  be  suitable  for  a  crop  of  any  of  the 
varieties  above  mentioned,  except  Cabbnge,  the  roots  of 
which  are  apt  to  get  defective,  if  the  same  ground  be  planted 
with  Cabbage  twice  in  succession. 

The  above,  or  preceding  plans,  present  a  fair  specimen 
of  what  may  be  done  on  a  small  piece  of  good  ground.  If 
the  young  gardener  will  take  the  trouble  to  keep  an  account 
of  his  transactions,  he  would  soon  make  discoveries  of  still 
greater  importance.  If  he  be  not  sufficiently  acquainted 
with  the  different  varieties  of  Cabbage  plants,  for  instance, 
so  as  to  distinguish  the  one  from,  the  other,  he,  by  making  a 
memorandum  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  would  soon  get 
acquainted  with  the  different  varieties  of  plants  ;  he  would 
also  discover  the  difference  in  the  growing  of  his  seeds,  andi 
know  who  to  blame  if  any  particular  kind  should  not 
come  up.. 


HOT-BEDS.  101 

The  following  represents  a  Hot-Bed  with  four  sashes,  sown  March  1. 


Early  Dwarf 

Early  Battersea 

Early  Lettuce 

Egg-Plant 

t 

Early  York         Drumhead,  or 

Tomatoe  Seed, 

Seed,  &c. 

Peppers, 

partitioned  off 

or  other  Spring 

other  Summer 

&c.  in  shallow 

as  directed  in 

note  to  article 

Cabbage  Seed. 

Cabbage  Seed 

drills. 

Egg-plant 

It  may  be  necessary  to  remind  my  readers  of  the  necessity 
of  being  always  prepared  to  sow  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Toma- 
toe, and  Egg-plant  seeds  in  hot-beds  the  last  week  in 
February,  or  early  in  March  ;  for  this  purpose,  let  some 
fresh  stable  dung  and  rich  compost  be  engaged  socfc'rehand. 
Some  gardeners  make  their  beds  on  the  level  ground,  but  it 
is  always  safest  to  make  them  in  pits  from  eighteen  hflchcslo 
two  feet  deep  ;*  in  order  to  do  this,  the  pits  should  be  dug 
in  Autumn,or  a  heap  of  dung  may  be  deposited  on  the  ground 
intended  for  the  beds  before  the  frost  sets  in,  and  gocd 
earth  may  be  obtained  from  the  pits  without  any  difficulty. 

The  frames  should  be  made  of  good  sound  plunks  ;  the 
back  plank  may  be  two  feet  wide,  and  the  end  ones  may 
be  so  sloped  as  to  make  a  fifteen  inch  plank  do  for  the  front. 
A  frame  calculated  for  four  sashes  of  three  feet  in  width  by 
six  in  length,  as  above  described,  should  be  nearly  thirteen 
feet  long,  and  about  six  broad  at  the  top. 

The  frame  being  set  over  the  pit,  and  properly  fastened, 
the  fresh  dung  should  be  spread  regularly  in  the  pit  to  the 


*  When  durable  heat  is  required  for  forcing  vegetables,  the  beds  should 
be  made  on  level  ground,  in  order  that  linings  may  be  applied  to  the 
outside  of  the  frame,  which  by  frequent  renewal,  will  enliven  the  heat  of 
the  bed,  and  thus  bring  tender  vegetables  to  maturity,  which  would 
otherwise  suffer  from  a  decline  of  the  heat.  For  particular  directions, 
see  Observations  on  Forcing  Vegetables — also  article  on  Forcing 
Asparagus. 

9* 


102  ON    FORCING   VEGETABLES. 

depth  of  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches  ;  if  the  dung  be  in  a 
good  heating  condition,  cover  it  with  six  or  eight  inches- 
deep  of  mould,  then  lay  on  the  sashes,  and  protect  the  beda 
from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather.  In  two  or  three  days 
the  rank  steam  may  pass  off;  it  will  then  be  necessary  to 
stir  the  mould  before  the  seed  be  sown,  to  prevent  the  growth 
of  young  weeds  that  maybe  germinating;  then  sow  the 
seed  either  in  shallow  drills  or  broadcast,  as  equally  as  pos- 
sible, reserving  a  small  quantity  of  the  warm  mould  to  he 
sown  or  sifted  over  the  seeds.  The  beds  should  be  after- 
wards attended  to,  as  directed  for  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower. 
This  description  of  a  hot-bed  is  intended  expressly  for  the 
raising  of  Spring  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Tomatoes,  and  such 
other  plants  as  may  be  required  for  early  planting.  Beds 
made  earlier  in  the  season,  or  for  forcing,  will  require  a 
greater  substance  of  manure.  See  calendar  for  January, 
February,  and  March. 


:      • OBSERVATIONS 

ON 

FORCING   VEGETABLES. 


BEFORE  I  commenced  preparing  this  work  for  the  press, 
I  intended  to  have  written  largely  on  the  subject  of  forcing 
fruits  as  well  as  vegetables ;  but  when  I  considered  my 
motto,  and  that  I  was  writing  for  young  gardeners,  I  con- 
cluded to  occupy  my  pages  in  such  a  manner  as  to  effect 
the  greatest  possible  good  at  the  smallest  expense.  Of  the 
several  branches  of  Florticulture,  some  are  of  greater  im- 
portance than  others  ;  and  as  the  products  of  the  kitchen 
garden  form  important  articles  of  food  for  the  bulk  of  man- 
kind, it  should  be  our  first  care  to  treat  largely  on  the  sub* 
ject  of  this  most  useful  part  of  gardening.  Next  to  this  is 
the  cultivation  of  fruits,  and  the  production  of  ornamental 
plants  and  flowers,  each  of  which  will  be  noticed  in  the 
respective  departments. 


(K*   FORCING    VEGETABLES.  103 

As  I  stand  pledged  to  offer  some  remarks  on  forcing,  or 
ratlier  forwarding  vegetables  by  artificial  means,  I  shall 
endeavour  to  confine  my  observations  to  such  points  as  are 
of  primary  importance ;  and  in  order  to  convince  my 
readers  of  the  importance  of  this  subject,  I  shall  first 
endeavour  to  show  the  utility  of  an  artificial  climate  suited 
to  the  various  species  of  useful  plants.  In  England,  a 
regular  succession  of  vegetables  can  be  obtained  from  the 
natural  ground  in  every  month  of  the  }7ear,  and  their  fruits, 
from  the  Summer  heat  being  moderate,  are  of  longer  con- 
tinuance than  with  us,  and  yet  they  make  gardening  a 
science,  and  employ  the  elements,  as  well  as  the  ingenuity 
of  man,  to  the  production  of  fruits  and  vegetables  out  of  the 
ordinary  season. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  treat  of  the  cultivation  of  Pine 
Apples,  Grapes,  Cherries,  or  other  fruits  grown  in  forcing 
houses  ;  nor  would  it  be  advisable  with  us  to  undertake  to 
raise  Cucumbers,  Melons,  &c.  in  frames  throughout  the 
severe  Winters  of  our  Northern  States,  but  it  must  be 
acknowledged,  that  the  extreme  heat  of  our  Summers  is  as 
detrimental  to  the  cultivation  of  some  of  the  most  valuable 
kinds  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  as  the  coldness  of  our  Win- 
ters, and  for  those  reasons,  artificial  aid  is  more  necessary 
here  in  the  Winter  and  Spring  of  the  year  than  in  England. 
The  inhabitants  of  that  country  may  obtain  a  supply  of  the 
different  varieties  of  Artichokes,  Broad  Beans,  Borecole, 
Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Rale,  Lettuce,  Radishes,  Rhubarb, 
Spinach,  Turnips,  and  Salads  in  general,  a  great  part  of 
the  year,  from  their  kitchen  gardens,  whereas,  if  we  were  to 
attempt  to  supply  our  markets  with  culinary  vegetables  at 
all  times,  in  any  thing  like  the  abundance  that  they  have 
them  there,  we  must,  out  of  the  ordinary  season  for  garden- 
ing operations,  turn  our  attention  to  the  protecting  and  for- 
warding as  well  as  the  forcing  system. 

Before  I  proceed  to  show  the  method  of  forcing  vegeta- 
bles, it  may  be  necessary  for  me  to  remind  my  readers,  that 
in  providing  an  artificial  climate,  they  should  consider  the 
nature  of  the  plants  they  intend  to  cultivate,  and  endeavour 
to  supply  them  with  that  which  is  best  calculated  to  nourish. 


101  ON  FORCING  VEGETABLES. 

and  support  them.  I  have,  in  another  part  of  this  work,, 
endeavoured  to  show,  that  heat,  light,  air  and  moisture,  are 
each  essential  to  vegetation,  and  that  these  should  be  sup- 
plied in  a  judicious  manner,  according  to  circumstances. 

In  the  midst  of  our  Northern  Winters,  which  is  the  usual 
time  for  forcing  in  England,  we  are  subject  to  north-west 
winds,  which  produce  extreme  freezing.  Now,  as  we  have 
not  yet  discovered  how  to  make  an  artificial  air,  it  will  not 
be  safe  for  the  gardener  to  raise  a  bottom  heat  under  any 
kind  of  vegetable,  until  such  times  as  he  can  impart  a 
tolerable  share  of  salubrious  air,  as  the  heat  without  air 
will  soon  destroy  the  fruits  of  his  labour. 

Perhaps  the  safest  time  to  commence  forcing  in  frames, 
is  soon  after  the  middle  of  February,  and  the  early  part  of 
March.  I  before  hinted,  that  the  depth  of  heating  materials 
must  be  regulated  by  the  season  of  the  year  at  which  trie 
work  is  commenced,  and  also  to  the  purposes  for  which  the 
hot-beds  are  intended.  Beds  used  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
half  hardy  plants,  or  for  procuring  seedling  plants  late  in 
the  Spring,  may  be  made  in  the  manner  recommended  for 
the  common  hot-bed;  but  if  substantial  heat  is  required  to  be 
kept  up,  the  beds  must  be  so  contrived  as  to  admit  of  linings 
as  the  heat  decreases;  and  the  dung  should  undergo  a 
regular  process  of  preparation,  according  to  the  use  it  is 
intended  for.  Compost  heaps  should  also  be  provided,  in 
order  to  furnish  suitable  mould  to  the  different  species  of 
plants;  for  this  purpose,  all  the  old  hot-bed  dung  and 
mould,  leaves,  tan,  turf,  sand,  and  other  light  manures  and 
decayed  animal  dung,  should  be  collected  together. 

In  some  cases  when  a  slight  hot-bed  is  recommended  for 
forwarding  hardy  plants,  if  it  should  happen  that  a  seedling 
Cucumber  bed  be  at  liberty,  it  may  answer  every  purpose  for 
Radishes,  Lettuce,  or  other  hardy  plants  ;  or  such  a  bed 
may  be  spawned  for  Mushroons,  if  required. 

If  the  forcing  be  commenced  before  the  coldest  of  the 
Winter  is  past,  great  precaution  must  be  used  lest  the  plants 
should  be  injured  by  cold  cutting  winds,  or  destroyed  l.y 
heat  for  want  of  air.  To  prevent  the  former  accident^ 
warm  dung  sJkmld  be  placed  around  the  frames,  and  $b& 


FORCING    ASPARAGUS.  105 

sashes  should  be  covered  with  mats  and  boards  every  night. 
If  full  air  cannot  be  admitted  in  the  day  time,  the  sashes 
must  be  slidden  down  to  Jet  off  the  steam,  at  the  same  time 
mats  may  be  laid  over  the  aperture,  to  prevent  cold  air 
entering  to  the  plants. 

If  the  bottom  heat  in  a  bed  be  too  violent,  which  is  some- 
times the  case,  means  must  be  used  to  decrease  it.  This  is 
generally  effected  by  making  holes  in  the  bed  with  a  stake 
sharpened  at  the  end,  or  with  a  crow-bar;  which  hole* 
should  be  filled  up  when  the  heat  is  sufficiently  reduced. 
in  lining  hot-beds,  if  the  heat  is  reduced  in  the  body  of  the 
beds,  holes  may  be  carefully  made  to  admit  heat  from  the 
fresh  linings,  so  as  to  enliven  the  heat  of  the  bed. 

A  Fahrenheit  Thermometer  should  be  always  at  hand, 
at  the  time  of  forcing,  to  be  used  when  necessary,  to  regu- 
late the  heat  in  the  beds ;  and  the  water  that  is  used  in 
cultivating  plants  in  frames,  should  be  warmed  to  the  tem- 
perature of  the  air,  or  according  to  the  heat  required  for  the 
various  kinds  of  plants,  which  will  be  shown  in  the  annexed 
articles. 


FORCING  ASPARAGUS  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

As  Asparagus  is  apt  to  grow  weak  and  slender  by  extreme 
bottom  heat,  it  is  forced  with  greater  success,  and  with  less 
trouble,  in  flued  pits  in  a  hot-house,  than  in  dung  hot-beds, 
because  the  heat  from  tan  is  more  regular  ;  but  a  very  suit- 
able bed  may  be  formed  in  a  deep  hot-bed  frame,  made  in 
the  usual  way.  If  dung  alone,  or  a  mixture  of  dung  and 
leaves  be  used,  it  should  be  in  a  state  past  heating  violently 
before  it  is  made  into  a  bed  ;  but  if  the  gardener  has  no 
choice  of  materials,  he  may  make  his  hot-bed  in  the  usual 
way,  and  if  the  depth  of  heating  materials  be  two  feet,  he 
may  lay  on  a  foot  of  old  hot-bed  dung,  tan  or  any  light 
compost,  that  will  admit  of  the  heat  passing  through  it. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  further,  that  though  too  much 
bottom  heat  should  be  avoided,  heat  is  necessary  to  the 
production  of  the  vegetable  in  a  moderate  time,  which  is 
generally  effected  in  a  month  or  six  weeks  after  the  oow* 


I  FORCING    ASPARAGUS. 

mencement  of  the  operations.  For  the  purpose  of  keeping 
up  a  regular  heat,  a  lining  of  hot  dung  should  be  applied 
around  the  frame,  and  changed  as  occasion  requires. 

Provide  plants  from  two  to  four,  or  even  six  years  old, 
trim  their  roots,  and  place  them  in  rows  on  the  beds  ;  when 
one  row  is  laid,  strew  a  little  mould  among  the  roots,  then 
proceed  in  the  same  way  with  one  row  after  another,  keep- 
ing them  on  a  level,  as  the  surface  of  the  bed  at  first  lay, 
till  you  have  finished  planting  them  ;  then  lay  among  the 
buds  and  roots  some  fine  vegetable,  or  other  rich  mould, 
working  it  in  amongst  them  with  your  fingers,  and  cover  the 
beds  over  about  an  inch  thick>  and  above  that  lay  three 
inches  in  depth  of  vegetable  mould  not  very  rotten,  old  tan, 
oj"  any  other  light  compost,  that  will  admit  the  water  to  run 
quickly  through. 

If  there  be  a  strong  heat  in  the  bed,  slide  down  the 
sashes  till  it  begins  to  decline.  The  temperature  at  night 
should  never  be  under  50°  and  it  may  rise  to  65°  without 
injury  ;  when  the  buds  begin  to  appear,  as  much  air  must 
be  daily  admitted  as  the  weather  will  permit.  In  two  or 
three  days  after  the  beds  are  planted,  the  heat  will  begm 
to  rise  :  the  beds  should  then  have  a  moderate  supply  of 
water  applied  from  a  watering  pot  with  the  rose  on  ;  repeat 
such  watering  every  three  or  four  days. 

When  the  buds  are  up  three  inches  above  the  surface, 
they  are. fit  to  gather  for  use,  as  they  will  then  be  six  or  seven 
inches  in  length.  In  gathering  them,  draw  aside  a  little  of 
the  mould,  slip  down  the  finger  and  thumb,  twist  them  oft' 
from  the  crown  :  this  is  a  better  method  than  to  cut  them  ; 
at  least  it  is  less  dangerous  to  the  rising  budsr  which  come 
up  thick  in  succession. 

An  ordinary  sized  frame  calculated  for  three  sashes  will 
hold  from  three  hundred  to  five  hundred  plants,  according  to, 
the  age  and  size,  and  will,  if  properly  managed,  yield  a 
dish  every  day  for  about  three  weeks.  On  the  above  esti- 
mate, if  a  constant  succession  of  Asparagus  be  required,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  plant  a  bed  every  eighteen  or  twenty 
days. 


FORWARDING   BEANS.  107 

Rhubarb  and  Sea  Kale  may  be,  and  sometimes  are, 
forced  in  the  same  manner  as  Asparagus ;  but  the  most 
general  mode  is  to  excite  them  where  they  stand  in  the  open 
garden,  by  the  application  of  warm  dung. 


FORWARDING  BROAD  BEANS  OR  ENGLISH 
DWARFS. 

In  the  article,  Broad  Bean,  vicia  faba,  I  have  already 
urged  the  necessity  of  early  planting,  in  order  that  a  full 
crop  may  be  insured  before  the  approach  of  warm  weather ; 
but  as  the  ground  is  often  frozen  at  the  time  they  ought  to 
be  planted,  some  of  the  best  kinds  may  be  planted  in  boxes, 
and  placed  in  a  moderate  hot-bed  in  February,  or  early  in 
March.  If  the  plants  thus  raised  be  not  nursed  too  tender, 
they  may  be  transplanted  into  the  open  ground  the  latter 
end  of  March  ;  this  will  enable  them  to  produce  their  fruit 
early  in  June. 

Or  if  a  heap  of  manure  be  spread  thick  on  a  piece  of 
ground  late  in  Autumn,  it  will  keep  the  earth  from  freezing, 
and  if  this  manure  be  removed  in  February,  and  a  frame 
placed  over  and  protected  from  extreme  cold,  the  seedlings 
may  be  raised  therein,  and  transplanted  into  the  gardfen 
as  directed  in  page  31. 

Those  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  hot-beds  or 
frames,  may,  in  the  month  of  February,  plant  some  of  the 
seed  about  two  inches  deep  in  boxes  kept  in  a  cellar,  or  in 
earth  on  the  floor,  which  will  produce  plants  fit  to  transplant 
in  the  open  garden  towards  the  latter  end  of  March  or  early 
in  April. 

FORCING  KIDNEY  BEANS. 

The  most  dwarfish  kinds  of  Kidney  Beans  may  be 
raised  in  hot-beds  ;  but  they  require  a  substantial  heat  to 
mature  them.  The  temperature  within  the  frames  should 
be  kept  up  to  60,  and  may  rise  to  70  or  75°,  provided  the 
steam  is  let  off.  In  order  to  insure  sufficient  heat  to  bring 


108        FORWARDING  BROCCOLI  AND  CAULIFLOWER. 

them  into  a  bearing  state,  the  plants  may  be  first  raised  ill 
small  pots  plunged  into  a  hot-bed,  or  a  small  bed  may  be 
prepared,  earthed  over  with  light  rich  compost,  six  inches 
deep,  and  the  Beans  planted  therein,  and  covered  one  inch. 

The  second  hot-bed  should  be  earthed  over  to  the  depth 
of  eight  or  nine  inches  :  and  the  Beans  transplanted  as 
soon  as  they  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  in  cross  rows 
twelve  or  fifteen  inches  apart,  by  three  or  four  inches  in 
the  rows,  or  in  clumps  a  foot  apart.  When  the  season 
is  so  far  advanced  that  one  bed,  with  the  help  of  linings, 
will  bring  the  plants  well  into  fruit,  the  seed  may  be  planted 
at  once  to  remain  for  podding ;  or  if  the  gardener  should 
choose  to  mature  his  crop  in  the  open  ground,  he  may  raise 
his  plants  in  boxes  or  pots  in  the  month  of  April,  and 
plant  them  out  in  a  warm  border  early  in  May. 

Beans  raised  in  hot-beds,  will  require  considerable  atten- 
tion ; — cover  the  glasses  every  night  with  mats  and  boards  ; 
admit  fresh  air  every  mild  day,  give  occasional  gentle 
waterings,  and  earth  them  up  carefully  as  they  progress  in 
growth,  to  strengthen  them. 


FORWARDING   BROCCOLI  AND  CAULIFLOWER. 

In  treating  of  the  method  of  cultivating  this  family  of 
plants,  in  the  articles  under  each  head,  I  recommended  an 
artificial  climate  to  be  provided  for  them,  so  as  to  induce 
them  to  arrive  at  full  perfection  in  the  Winter  and  early  part 
of  the  Spring.  Such  gardeners  as  may  have  provided 
frames  for  the  purpose  of  making  hot-beds  in  the  Spring, 
may  make  use  of  them  through  the  Winter,  in  protecting 
Broccoli  and  Cauliflower;  and  as  the  frames  will  not  be 
wanted  until  the  severity  of  the  Winter  is  past,  such  plants 
as  may  be  left  at  that  season,  may  be  protected  by  a  cover- 
ing of  boards,  straw,  or  litter,  as  occasion  may  require. 

If  Cauliflower  be  required  early  in  the  Summer,  the 
plants  raised  in  the  preceding  Autumn  should  be  trans- 
planted from  the  beds  into  the  open  ground  in  the  month  of 
March,  and  be  protected  by  hand  glasses.  This  would 


FORCING    CUCUMBERS. 


insure  their  heading  before  the  approach  of  extreme  warm 
weather,  which  is  very  injurious  to  Cauliflower. 


FORCING  CUCUMBERS. 

To  produce  Cucumbers  at  an  early  season,  should  be  an 
object  of  emulation  with  every  gardener.  The  business  of 
forcing  them  should  commence  about  eight  or  ten  weeks 
before  the  fruit  is  desired,  and  a  succession  of  plants  should 
be  raised  to  provide  for  accidents.  Some  choose  the  Short 
prickly,  other,  the  Green  Cluster  and  Southgate ;  and 
seed  that  is  two  or  three  years  old  is  generally  preferred,  as 
it  is  not  so  apt  to  run  to  vines. 

The  seed  is  generally  sown  in  pots  or  boxes  of  light  rich 
mould,  and  placed  in  a  hot-bed  ;  and  some  sow  the  seeds  in 
the  earth  of  a  small  bed  prepared  for  the  purpose.  In 
either  case,  as  soon  as  the  plants  have  fully  expanded  their 
two  seed  leaves,  they  may  be  transplanted  into  pots ;  put 
three  plants  into  each  pot ;  when  this  is  done,  apply  water 
warmed  to  the  heat  of  the  bed,  and  shut  down  the  glasses, 
keeping  them  a  little  shaded  by  throwing  a  mat  over  the 
glass,  till  the  plants  have  taken  root.  When  they  are  about 
a  month  old,  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  fruiting 
bed. 

Well  preparing  the  dung,  is  of  the  greatest  importance  in 
forcing  the  Cucumber,  and  if  not  done  before  it  is  made 
into  a  bed,  it  cannot  be  done  after,  as  it  requires  turning 
and  managing  to  cause  it  to  ferment  freely  and  sweetly. 
Fresh  dung  from  the  stable  should  be  laid  into  a  heap, 
turned  three  times,  and  well  mixed  with  a  fork ;  if  any 
appears  dry,  it  should  be  made  wet,  always  keeping  it 
between  the  two  extremes  of  wet  and  dry,  that  the  whole 
may  have  a  regular  fermentation. 

A  dry  situation  should  be  clio?en  for  beds  to  be  formed 
on,  so  that  no  water  can  settle  under  the  dung.  The  sub- 
stance of  dung  from  the  bottom  6f  the  bed  should  be  from 
three  to  four  feet,  according  to  the  season  of  planting,  and 

10 


the  moulding  should  be  done  as  soon  as  the  bed  is  settled? 
and  has  a  lively  regular  tempered  heat.  Lay  the  earth 
evenly  over  the  dung,  about  six  inches  deep;  after  it  has 
lain  a  few  days  examine  it,  and  if  no  traces  of  a  burning 
effect  are  discovered,  by  the  mould  turning  of  a  whitish 
colour,  and  caking,  it  will  be  fit  to  receive  the  plants;  but  if 
the  earth  appears  burnt,  or  of  a  rank  smell,  some  fresh  sweet 
mould  should  be  provided  for  the  hills,  and  placed  in  the 
frame  to  get  warm,  at  the  same  time,  vacancies  should  be 
made  to  give  vent  to  the  steam,  by  running  down  stakes. 

After  the  situation  of  the  bed  has  been  ascertained,  and 
ihe  heat  regulated,  the  hole  should  be  closed,  and  the  earth 
formed  into  hills ;  raise  one  hill  in  the  centre  under  each 
sash,  so  that  the  earth  is  brought  to  within  nine  inches  of 
the  glass  ;  in  these  hills,  plant  three  seedlings,  or  turn  out 
such  as  may  be  in  pots,  with  the  balls  of  earth  about  their 
roots,  and  thus  insert  one  patch  of  three  plants  in  the  mid- 
die  of  each  hill.  The  plants  should  be  immediately  watered 
with  water  heated  to  the  air  of  the  bed,  and  kept  shaded  till 
they  have  taken  root. 

The  temperature  should  be  kept  up  to  60°,  and  may  rise 
to  80°  without  injury,  provided  the  rank  steam  be  allowed 
to  pass  off;  therefore,  as  the  heat  begins  to  decline,  timeJy 
linings  of  well  prepared  dung  must  be  applied  all  round 
the  frame  ;  begin  by  lining  the  back  part  first ;  cut  away  the 
old  dung  perpendicularly  by  the  frame,  and  form  a  bank 
two  feet  broad,  to  the  height  of  a  foot,  against  the  back  of 
the  frames  :  as  it  sinks,  add  more ;  renew  the  linings  around 
the  remainder  of  the  bed  as  it  becomes  necessary,  and  be 
careful  to  let  off  the  steam,  and  give  air  to  the  plants  at  all 
opportunities. 

Give  necessary  waterings,  mostly  in  the  morning  of  «t 
mild  day,  in  early  forcing;  and  in  the  afternoon  in  the 
advanced  season  of  hot  sunny  weather.  Some  use  water 
impregnated  with  sheep  or  pigeons'  dung.  As  the  root* 
begin  to  spread,  and  the  vines  to  run,  the  hills  should  be 
enlarged  by  gathering  up  the  earth  around  them,  a  supply 
of  good  mould  should  be  furnished  to  gather  up  as  req,*iredt 
for  earthing  around  the  plants/ 


FORCING    CUCUMBERS.  Ill 

When  the  plants  have  made  one  or  two  joints,  stop  them, 
sifter  which  they  generally  put  forth  two  shoots,  each  of 
which  let  run  till  they  have  made  one  or  two  clear  joints, 
and  then  stop  them  ;  and  afterwards  continue  throughout 
the  season  to  stop  them  at  every  joint ;  this  will  strengthen 
the  plants,  and  promote  their  perfecting  the  fruit  early. 

The  following  artificial  operation  is  recommended  by 
Abercroinbie,  Phial,  and  other  writers,  as  essential  to  the 
production  of  a  full  crop  of  Cucumbers  under  glass.  In 
plants  more  freely  exposed  to  the  open  air,  the  impregnation 
is  effected  by  nature.  Those  which  some  call  false  blossoms 
are  the  male  flowers,  and  are  indispensable  in  this  ope- 
ration. 

"  The  Cucumber,"  Abercrombie  observes,  "  bears  male 
and  female  blossoms  distinctly  on  the  same  plant.  The 
latter  only  produce  the  fruit,  which  appears  first  in  minia- 
ture, close  under  the  base,  even  before  the  flower  expands. 
There  is  never  any  in  the  males ;  but  these  are  placed  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  females,  and  are  absolutely  necessary, 
by  the  dispersion  of  their  farina,  to  impregnate  the  female 
blossom  ;  the  fruit  of  which  will  not  otherwise  swell  to  its 
full  size,  and  the  seeds  will  be  abortive.  The  early  plants 
under  glass,  not  having  the  full  current  of  nutural  air,  nor 
the  assistance  of  bees  and  other  winged  insects  to  convey 
the  farina,  the  artificial  aid  of  the  cultivator  is  necessary  to 
effect  the  impregnation.  At  the  time  of  fructification,  watch 
the  plants  daily  :  and  as  soon  as  the  female  flowers  and 
some  male  blossoms  are  fully  expanded,  proceed  to  set  the 
fruit  the  same  day,  or  next  morning  at  farthest.  Take  off 
a  male  Mossom,  detaching  it  with  part  of  the  footstalk. 
Hold  this  between  the  finger  and  thumb ;  pull  away  th* 
flower  leaves,  or  petals,  close  to  the  stamens  and  antherse, 
or  central  part,  which  apply  close  to  the  pistil  in  the  bosom 
of  the  female  flower,  twirling  it  a  little  about,  to  discharge 
thereon  some  particles  of  the  fertilizing  powder.  Proceed 
thus  to  set  every  fruit,  as  the  flowers  of  both  sorts  open, 
while  of  a  lively  full  expansion  ;  and  generally  perform  it 
in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  using  a  fresh  male,  if  possible, 
for  every  impregnation,  as  the  males  are  usually  soore 


11*2  FORWARDING    LETTUCE. 

abundant  than  the  female  blossoms.     By  this  manage  meat, 
the  young  fruit  will  be  soon  observed  to  swell  freely." 

Cucumbers  attain  the  proper  size  for  gathering  in  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  days  after  the  time  of  setting  ;  and  oftei/ 
in  succession  for  two  or  three  months  or  more,  in  the  same 
beds,  by  good  culture. 


FORWARDING    CUCUMBERS   UNDER  HANI> 
GLASSES. 

If  it  be  desired  to  have  Cucumbers  in  the  open  garden  at 
an  early  season,  the  plants  mny  be  raised  in  pots  as  before 
directed,  and  planted  in  a  warm  border  either  in  the  earth, 
or  in  hot-bed  ridges.  A  hand  glass  should  be  provided  for 
each  hill,  which  must  bo  kept  close  down  every  night,  and 
in  cool  days,  taking  care  to  admit  air  when  practicable.  The 
plants  may  be  hardened  by  degrees,  by  taking  oif  the  glass 
in  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  as  the  weather  gets  warm  they 
may  be  left  to  nature. 


FORWARDING  LETTUCE  FOR  USE  IN  WINTER. 

Head  Lettuce  may  be  cultivated  for  use  in  the  Winter 
season,  by  means  of  gentfe  hot-beds,  or  in  cold-beds  in  ado 
in  the  manner  recommended  for  the  raising  of  early  Cab- 
bage plants,  &3.  (See  article  Cabbnge.)  For  such  Head 
Lettuce  as  may  be  wanted  for  use  before  Christmas,  tlte 
Hardy  Green,  Dutch,  and  Egyptian  Coss,  are  the  most 
suitable  kinds  to  sow;  and  plants  maybe  raised  in  the 
open  border  by  sowing  seed  two  or  three  times  between  the 
middle  of  August  and  the  first  week  in  September.  The 
plants  from  these  sowings  may  be  set  out,  about  six  inches 
apart,  in  cold-beds,  when  they  are  about  one  or  two  inches 
high. 

In  September  and  early  in  October,  some  of  the  Silesia, 
Sugar  loaf,  Butter  Lettuce,  or  any  other  esteemed  sorts, 
may  be  sown  in  a  cold-bed  frame,  which,  with  the  aid  of 
sashes,  will  produce  plants  in  from  a  month  to  six  weeks  ; 


FORCING    MUSHROOMS.  113 

these  being  planted  in  gentle  hot-beds,  in  November  and 
December,  will  produce  Head  Lettuce  until  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply can  be  obtained  from  the  open  borders.  The  same 
attention  is  necessary,  as  respects  the  protection  of  these 
beds,  as  for  other  half  hardy  plants. 


FORCING  MUSHROOMS  AT  ALL  SEASONS.     ] 

The  Agaricus  is  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  genus  in 
the  vegetable  kingdom.  The  species  are  determined  upon 
various  principles.  As  some  of  the  kinds  are  poisonous,  it 
is  necessary  to  describe  the  eatable  Mushroom.  Loudon 
says,  it  is  most  readily  distinguished  when  of  a  middle  size, 
by  its  fine  pink  or  flesh-coloured  gills,  and  pleasant  smell. 
In  a  more  advanced  stage,  the  gills  become  of  a  chocolate 
colour,  and  it  is  then  more  apt  to  be  confounded  with  other 
kinds  of  dubious  quality  ;  but  that  species  which  most! 
nearly  resembles  it,  is  slimy  to  the  touch,  destitute  of  fine 
odour,  and  have  a  disagreeable  smell. 

Again  :  the  noxious  kinds  grow  in  woods,  while  the  true 
Mushroom  springs  up  chiefly  in  open  pastures,  and  should 
be  gathered  only  in  such  places. 

Unwholesome  fungi  will  sometimes  spring  up  on  artificial 
beds  in  gardens ;  thus,  when  the  spawn  begins  to  run,  a 
spurious  breed  is  often  found  to  precede  a  crop  of  genuine 
Mushrooms.  The  baneful  quality  of  the  toad-stool,  Agaricus 
cirocus,  is  in  general  indicated  by  a  sickly  nauseous  smell, 
though  some  hurtful  sorts  are  so  far  without  any  thing  dis- 
agreeable in  ihe  smell,  as  to  make  any  criterion,  drawn  from 
that  alone,  very  unsafe.  The  wholesome  kinds,  however, 
invariably  emit  a  grateful  rich  scent.  The  Agaricus  cam- 
pestris  is  most  generally  oultivated.  Dr.  Withering  men- 
tions other  eatable  varieties,  which  run  considerably  larger, 
but  which  are  inferior  in  flavor  ;  he  says,  "  that  a  plant  of 
the  variety  Georgia,  was  gathered  in  an  old  hot-bed  at 
Birmingham,  which  weighed  fourteen  pounds,  and  Mr. 
Stackhouse  found  one  fifty-four  inches  in  circumference, 
hav  ing  a  stem  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist." 

10* 


114  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

Mushrooms  may  be  obtained  at  any  season  of  the  year, 
by  a  proper  regulation  of  the  time  and  manner  of  forming 
the  beds.  A  good  crop  is  sometimes  collected  without 
making  a  bed  on  purpose,  by  introducing  lumps  of  spawn 
into  the  top  mould  of  old  hot-beds. 

The  methods  of  procuring  and  propagating  spawn,  and 
of  forming  Mushroom  beds,  are  numerous.  Indigenous 
spawn  may  be  collected  in  pasture  lands  in  September  and 
October,  or  it  may  be  found  in  its  strength  and  purity  in 
the  paths  of  mills  worked  by  horses,  or  in  any  other  horse- 
walks  under  shelter  ;  it  is  frequently  found  in  old  hot-beds 
and  dunghills,  in  the  summer  season,  and  Mushrooms  of 
good  quality  m;iy  often  be  seen  beginning  to  form  themselves 
on  the  surface,  like  large  peas  ;  when  these  are  observed,  it 
is  time  to  take  out  the  spawn,  which  is  generally  in  hard  dry 
lumps  of  dung,  the  spawn  having  the  appearance  of  whitish 
coarse  pieces  of  thread.  The  true  sort  has  exactly  the 
smell  of  a  Mushroom.  If  spawn  thus  collected,  be  required 
for  immediate  use,  it  may  be  planted  iri  the  beds  at  once,  or 
it  will  keep  three  or  four  years,  if  laid  to  dry  with  the  earth 
adhering  to  it,  and  afterwards  placed  in  a  warm  dry  shed, 
where  there  is  a  current  of  air  ;  but  if  it  be  not  completely 
dried,  the  spawn  will  exhacst  itself  or  perish,  as  it  will  not 
bear  the  extremes  of  heat,  cold,  or  moisture. 

Such  of  my  readers  as  may  have  hitherto  been  un- 
acquainted with  the  cultivation  of  Mushrooms,  must  per- 
ceive, from  the  preceding  remarks,  that  a  Mushroom  bed  is 
simply  a  heap  of  animal  dung  and  earth,  so  tempered  as  to 
be  capable  of  producing  and  preserving  spawn  ;  but  in  order 
to  have  fruitful  spawn  at  all  times,  it  should  be  so  formed  as 
to  be  always  at  command.  To  this  end,  a  quantity  of  fresh 
hor^e  droppings  mixed  with  short  litter,  shouldbe  collected  j 
add  to  this  one-third  of  cow  dun*g,  and  a  small  portion  of 
good  earth,  to  cement  it  together  ;  mash  the  whole  into  a 
thin  compost,  like  grafting  clay  ;  then  form  it  in  the  shape 
of  bricks,  which  being  done,  set  them  on  edge,  arid  frequent- 
ly turn  them  until  half  dry  ;  then  with  a  dibble  make  one  or 
two  holes  in  each  brick,  and  insert  in  each  hole  a  piece  of 
spawn  the  size  of  an  egg:  the  bricks  should  then  be  laid 


FORCING    MUSHROOMS.  115 

where  they  can  dry  gradually.  When  dry,  lay  dry  horse 
dung  on  a  level  floor,  six  or  eight  inches  thick  ;  on  this,  pile 
the  bricks  the  spa\vn  side  uppermost.  When  the  pile  is 
snuglv  formed,  cover  it  with  a  small  portion  of  warm  fresh 
horse-dung,  sufficient  in  quantity  to  diffuse  a  gentle  glow 
through  the  whole.  When  the  spawn  has  spread  itself 
through  every  part  of  the  bricks,  the  process  is  ended,  and 
they  may  be  laid  up  into  any  dry  place  for  use.  Mushroom 
spawn,  made  according  to  this  receipt,  will  preserve  its  vege- 
table powers  for  many  years,  if  well  dried  before  it  is  laid 
up  :  if  moist,  it  will  grow,  and  soon  exhaust  itself. 

Mushroom  beds  are  often  formed  in  ridges  in  the  open 
air,  covered  with  litter  and  mats,  so  as  to  prevent  heavy 
rains  exciting  a  fermentation  ;  and  sometimes  in  ridges  of 
the  same  sort  under  cover,  as  in  the  open  sheds  of  hot- 
houses. They  are  also  made  in  close  sheds  behind  hot- 
houses, or  in  houses  built  on  purpose,  called  Mushroom- 
houses.  A  moderately  warm  light  cellar  is  peculiarly 
suited  for  the  purpose  in  the  Winter  season,  as  no  fire  is 
necessary,  and  but  little  water,  the  application  of  which 
frequently  proves  injurious,  when  not  judiciously  managed. 
Mushrooms  may  be  also  raised  in  pots,  boxes,  hampers,  &c. 
placed  in  warm  situations,  in  old-beds,  in  pits  with  glazed1 
frames,  and  in  dark  frames  or  pit?. 

The  general  way  of  making  Mushroom  beds,  is  to  prepare 
a  body  of  stable  dunpf,  moderately  fermented,  to  the  thick- 
ness of  about  a  yard,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  size 
and  situation  in  which  the  bed  is  to  be  formed ;  when  the 
strong  heat  has  subsided,  an  inch  of  good  mould  may  be 
laid  over,  and  the  spawn  planted  therein  in  rows  five  or  six 
inches  apart ;  after  this  is  done,  another  layer  of  mould,  an 
inch  thick  may  be  applied,  and  then  a  coat  of  straw.  Beds 
well  constructed,  will  produce  Mushrooms  in  five  or  six 
week?,  and  will  continue  to  produce  for  several  months,  if 
oare  be  taken  in  gathering,  not  to  destroy  the  young  ones. 
As  Mushrooms  are  gathered,  from  time  to  time,  the  straw 
should  be  spread  carefully  over  the  bed. 

Beds  made  in  a  convenient  place  where  there  is  space  aH 
around,  may  be  formed  ?o  I\E  to  make  four  sloping  surfaces^ 


116  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

similar  to  the  roof  of  a  house  ;  this  by  being  spawned  ota 
the  four  sides  will  yield  abundantly.  The  celebrated  Mr. 
Nichol  makes  his  beds  without  spawn.  The  following  are 
his  directions,  taken  from  Loudon's  Encyclopedia  of  Gar- 
dening : 

41  After  having  laid  a  floor  of  ashes,  stones,  chips,  gravel, 
&r  brick-bats,  so  as  to  keep  the  bed  quite  dry,  and  free  from 
under  damp,  lay  a  course  of  horse-droppings  six  inches  thick. 
These  should  be  new  from  the  stables,  and  must  not  be 
broken,  and  the  drier  the  belter.  They  may  be  collected 
every  day  until  the  whole  floor  or  sole  be  covered  to  the 
above  thickness  ;  but  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  ferment 
or  heat.  In  the  whole  process  of  making  up,  the  bed  should 
be  as  much  exposed  to  the  air  as  possible  ;  and  it  should  be 
carefully  defended  from  wet,  if  out  of  doors.  \Vhenthis  course 
is  quite  dry,  and  judged  to  be  past  a  state  of  fermentation, 
cover  it  the  thickness  of  two  inches  with  light  dry  earth ;  if 
sandy,  so  much  the  better.  It  is  immaterial  whether  it  be 
rich  or  not,  the  only  use  of  earth  here  being  for  spawn  to 
run  and  mass  in.  Now  lay  another  course  of  droppings, 
and  earth  them  over  as  above,  when  past  a  state  of  fermen- 
tation :  then  a  third  course,  which,  in  like  manner,  earth  all 
over.  This  finishes  the  bed,  which  will  be  a  very  strong  and 
productive  one,  if  properly  managed  afterwards. 

Observe,  that  in  forming  the  bed,  it  should  be  a  little 
rounded,  in  order  that  the  centre  may  not  be  more  wet  or 
moist  than  the  sides.  This  may  be  done  in  forming 
the  sole  or  floor  at  first,  and  the  bed  would  then  be  of 
equal  strength  in  all  parts.  If  it  be  made  up  against  a 
wall  in  a  cellar,  stable,  or  shed,  it  may  have  a  slope  of  a 
few  inches  from  the  back  to  the  front,  less  or  more,  accord- 
ing to  its  breadth.  I  have  sometimes  been  contented  with 
two  courses  as  above,  instead  of  three  ;  and  often  when 
materials  were  scarce,  have  made  them  up  slighter,  thus  t 
three  four-inch  courses  of  droppings,  with  one  inch  of  earth 
between  each,  and  a  two-inch  covering  at  top.  Such  abed 
as  this,  I  have  had  produce  for  ten  or  twelve  months  toge- 
ther ;  but  very  much  depends  on  the  state  of  the  materials, 


FOBCING    MUSHROOMS.  117 

and  on  the  care  taken   in  making  it  up,  also  on  the  after 
management. 

The  droppings  of  hard-fed  horses  only  are  useful.  Those 
of  horses  kept  on  green  food  will,  of  themselves,  produce 
(few  or  no  mushrooms.  I  have  made  up  beds  from  farm 
horses,  fed  partly  on  hard,  and  partly  on  green  food,  and 
from  carriage  or  snddlc  horses,  fed  entirely  on  corn  and  hay; 
treated  them  in  the  same  way  in  every  respect ;  and  have 
found,  not  OIK'C  hut  always,  those  made  from  the  latter  most 
productive.  Droppings  from  hard-fed  horses  may  be  pro- 
cured at  the  public  stables  in  towns,  or  at  inns  in  the  coun- 
try, any  time  of  the  year;  and  if  the  supply  be  plentiful,  a 
bed  of  considerable  dimensions  may  be  made  and  finished 
within  five  or  six  weeks.  In  as  many  more  weebs,  if  in  a 
stable  or  dry  cellar,  or  a  flued  shed,  it  will  begin  to  produce 
and  often  sooner;  but  if  the  situation  of  the  bed  be  cold,  it 
will  sometimes  be  two  or  three  months  in  producing  Mush- 
rooms." 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  further,  that  extremes  of  heat, 
cold,  drought  and  moisture,  should  be  avoided  in  the  culti- 
vation of  Mushrooms.  Ffthe  temperature  keeps  up  to  50^  in 
the  Winter,  the  beds  will  be  safe,  and  the  heat  in  the  beds 
may  rise  to  60  or  even  70°  without  injury.  Air  also  must 
be  admitted  in  proportion  to  the  heat,  and  GO*5  should  be 
aimed  at  as  a  medium  temperature.  Water,  when  given  a 
little  at  a  time,  is  better  than  too  much  at  onco,  after  the 
spawn  has  begun  to  spread  ;  and  the  water  lor  this  purpose 
should  always  be  made  blood  warm.  A  light  covering  of 
straw  may  be  always  used  to  preserve  moisture  on  the  sur- 
face ;  and  if  the  beds  are  made  in  open  frames,  or  otherwise 
subject  to  exposure,  the  straw  may  be  laid  thicker  than  on 
beds  made  in  a  cellar. 

Should  beds  fail  in  producing  Mushrooms,  after  having 
been  kept  over  hot  or  wet,  it  raay  be  inferred  that  the  spawn 
is  injured  or  destroyed  ;  but  if  on  the  contrary  a  bed  that 
has  been  kept  moderately  warm  and  dry,  should  happen  to 
be  unproductive,  such  bed  may  be  well  replenished  with 
warm  water,  and  a  coat  of  warm  dung  may  be  laid  over  the 
whole  \  if  this  does  not  enliven  the  bed  after  haying  lain  a 


118  FOBCING   MUSHROOMS, 

month,  take  off  the  earth,  and  if  on  examination  there  is 
no  appearance  of  spawn,  the  whole  may  be  destroyed,  butif 
on  the  contrary  the  bed  should  contain  spawn,  it  may  be 
Tenovated  by  covering  it  again,  especially  if  any  small 
tubercles  be  discernible;  but  if  the  heat  should  have  declined, 
the  spawn  may  be  taken  out  and  used  in  a  fresh  bed.  If 
beds  be  formed  in  hot-bed  frames  under  glass,  some  mats  or 
straw  must  be  laid  over  the  glass  to  break  off  the  intense 
heat  of  the  sun. 

Although  only  one  species  of  edible  fungi  has  yet  been 
introduced  into  the  garden,  there'  are  several  eatable  kinds. 
In  Poland  and  Russia  there  are  above  thirty  sorts  in  com- 
mon use  among  the  peasantry.  They  are  gathered  at  dif- 
ferent stages  of  their  growth,  and  used  in  various  ways  ; 
raw,  bniled,  stewed,  roasted,  and  being  hung  up,  and  diied 
in  their  stoves  and  chimnies,  form  a  part  of  their  Winter 
stock  of  provisions.  Great  caution  is  necessary  in  collect- 
ing Mushrooms  for  food,  and  none  but  the  Botanist  should 
search  for  any  but  the  sorts  we  have  described.*  Physicians 
say,  "that  all  the  edible  species  should  be  thoroughly  mas- 
ticated before  they  are  taken  into  the  stomach,  as  this  greatly 
lessens  the  effects  of  poisons.  When  accidents  of  the  sort 
happen,  vomiting  should  be  immediately  excited,  and  then 
the  vegetable  acids  should  be  given,  either  vinegar,  lemon 
juice,  or  that  of  apples  ;  after  which,  give  ether  and  anti- 
spasmodic  remedies,  to  stop  the  excessive  vomiting.  Infu- 
sions of  gallnur,  oak  bark,  and  Peruvian  bark,  are  recom, 
mended  as  capable  of  neutralizing  the  poisonous  principle 
of  Mushrooms."  It  is,  however,  the  safest  way  not  to  eat 
any  but  the  well  known  kinds. 


*  In  order  to  ascertain  whether  what  appear  to  be  Mushrooms  are  of 
the  true  eatable  kinds,  sprinkle  a  litttle  salt  over  the  inner  or  spongy 
part ;  if,  in  a  short  time  after,  they  turn  yellow,  they  are  unwholesome ; 
but  if  black,  they  may  be  considered  a.s  genuine  AJushroows, 


FORWARDING  MELONS  UNDER  HAND  GLASSES, 

ALTHOUGH  our  citizens  have  an  opportunity  of  procuring 
Melons  without  artificial  aid,  as  their  continuance  is  short, 
it  may  not  be  amiss  to  remind  the  gardener  that  the  direc- 
tions already  given  for  maturing  Cucumbers  under  glass 
will  apply  to  Melons,  with  very  few  exceptions  ;  care,  how 
ever,  must  be  taken  that  they  be  kept  away  from  each  other 
at  the  time  of  fruiting,  as  instances  often  occur  of  whole 
crops  being  entirely  ruined,  by  plants  of  the  same  genus 
being  raised  too  near  each  other.  Those  who  wish  to  for- 
ward Melons,  may  prepare  a  hot-bed  in  March  or  April,  to 
raise  plants  in  ;  the  bed  may  be  formed  and  the  plants 
managed  in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  is  directed  for 
Cucumbers.  If  the  ridging  system  be  adopted,  and  a  hand- 
glass applied  to  each  hill,  Melons  may  be  obtained  one 
month  earlier  than  the  usual  time. 

Gardeners  raising  Melons  for  the  supply  of  city  markets^ 
may  gratify  the  public  by  pursuing  the  forwarding,  if  not  the 
forcing  system.  Ridges  may  be  prepared  in  the  following 
manner.  In  April  or  May,  a  trench  may  be  dug  in  a  warm 
border  about  two  feet  deep  and  three  wide,  and  of  sufficient 
length  for  as  many  hand-glasses  as  are  intended  to  be 
employed,  allowing  three  feet  for  every  hill.  Some  good 
heating  manure  should  be  laid  in  the  pits,  managed  the  same 
as  a  common  hot-bed  ;  to  this  must  be  added  good  rich 
mould  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten  inches  for  the  plants  to 
grow  iir;  as  soon  as  the  mould  is  warm,  the  seedlings  may 
be  planted,  three  plants  in  each  hill,  after  which  the  hand- 
glasses should  be  set  on,  and  shaded.  After  the  plants  have 
taken  root  and  begun  to  grow,  the  glasses  should  be  raised 
in  fine  days,  and  propped  up  so  as  to  admit  fresh  air,  and  as 
the  warm  weather  progresses,  they  may  be  taken  off  in  the 
middle  of  fine  days,  so  as  to  harden  the  plants  gradually  to 
the  weather;  and  by  the  latter  end  of  May  they  may  be  left 
to  nature. 


120 

FORCING  PEAS  IN  HOT  BEDS. 

THE  best  sorts  of  Peas  to  force,  are  the  most  dwarfish 
kinds,  and  the  seed  is  better  for  being  two  or  ihree  years  old$ 
as  they  will  bear  earlier,  and  make  less  straw.  Peas  run 
less  to  vine  by  being  transplanted,  than  when  they  are  sown 
where  they  are  to  remain  ;  the  plants  may  be  raised  in  a 
gentle  hot-bed,  either  in  the  earth  of  the  bed,  or  in  pots  or 
boxes.  They  do  not  require  excessive  heat ;  the  tempera- 
ture must  be  progressive  ;  beginning  at  about  50°  for  the 
nursery  bed,  and  from  that  to  60°  or  65°  for  fruiting. 

When  the  leaves  of  the  plants  are  fairly  expanded,  they 
may  be  transplanted  into  rows  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  apart ;  observe,  the  earth  in  the  fruiting  bed  should 
be  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  depth. 

As  the  Peas  progress  in  growth,  the  earth  should  be 
stirred;  and  when  six  inches  high,  small  sticks  maybe 
applied,  so  that  the  tendrils  of  the  Peas  iriay  easily  take 
hold  ;  and  they  should  be  moulded  at  the  bottom  to  enable 
them  to  support  themselves. 

When  they  appear  in  blossom,  nip  the  top  off;  this 
greatly  promotes  the  forming  and  filling  of  the  pods;  they 
will  require  to  be  regularly  watered,  arid  as  the  Spring 
advances  they  may  be  exposed  to  ihe  weather,  taking  care 
lo  shelter  them  in  the  event  of  a  sudden  change. 


FORCING   POTATOES  IN  HOT-BEDS, 

POTATOES  may  be  forced  in  a  great  variety  of  ways. 
Those  who  attempt  to  mature  Potatoes  in  frames,  will  of 
course  provide  such  of  the  earliest  kinds  as  are  not  inclined 
to  produce  large  tops,  the  Broughton  dwarf,  Early  mule, 
Nonpareil  and  the  Oak,  and  the  Ash-leaved,  are  of  this 
description. 

Potatoes  may  be  forwarded  in  growth  previous  to  their 
being  planted  in  the  beds,  by  placing  them  in  a  warm  damp 
cellar.  Some  forward  them  in  pots  and  boxes,  and  after- 
wards mature  them  in  a  hot-bed  ;  others  plant  them  in  tha 


FORWARDING    RADISHES,    &C.  121 

at  once,  in  which  case  the  bed  should  be  moulded  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  inches  deep,  and  the  heating  materials 
should  be  sufficient  to  keep  up  a  moderate  heat  for  two  or 
three  months.  * 

Perhaps  the  most  convenient  way  to  force  Potatoes  in  this 
climate,  is  to  provide  pots  for  the  purpose  ;  plant  one  set  in 
each  pot  in  January,  set  them  in  a  warm  cellar  till  a  bed 
can  be  prepared  in  February,  in  this  put  in  the  pots.  While 
the  tuberous  roots  are  forming,  and  before  they  fill  the  pots, 
prepare  the  beds  for  maturing  them,  and  then  bury  them  in 
the  mould  with  the  balls  of  earth  attached  to  them. 

The  b.ds  should  be  kept  free  from  frost,  and  air  should 
be  given  at  every  opportunity.  The  common  round  Potatoes 
may  be  forwarded,  by  laying  them  thick  together  in  a  slight 
hot-bed  in  March,  and  when  they  are  planted  in  the  borders, 
a  quantity  of  comb-maker's  shavings  may  be  deposited  in 
each  hill ;  this  will  greatly  promote  then-  growth. 


FORWARDING  RADISHES,  &c. 

RADISHES  may  be  obtained  early  in  the  Spring  by  means 
of  a  moderate  hf  V  •>,  ,t  The  earth  in  the  frame  should  be  a 
foot  in  depth,{  should  be  admitted  every  day  after 

they  are  up,  or.  .iciine  more  to  tops  than  roots.  If 

they  come  up  too  ;k,  they  should  be  thinned  to  one  of 
two  inches  apart.  Give  gentle  waterings  as  occasion 
requires,  and  keep  them  well  covered  in  cold  nights. 

For  raising  early  Radishes,  without  frames,  hot-beds  may 
be  made  in  ridges,  and  arched  over  with  hoop  bends,  or 
pliant  rods,  which  should  be  covered  with  mats  constantly 
at  night,  and  during  the  day  in  very  cold  weather.  In 
-moderate  days,  turn  up  the  mats  at  the  warmest  side  ;  and 
on  a  fine  mild  day,  take  them  wholly  off,  and  harden  them 
gradually  to  the  weather. 

Turnips,  Carrots,  Onions,  or  any  kind  of  salads,  01  pot 
herbs,  may  be  raised  in  the  same  way  by  sowing  the  seedia 
drills,  and  keeping  the  ground  clear  of  weeds. 

11 


122 
FORWARDING  RHUBARB. 

THOSE  who  may  desire  to  have  this  excellent  substitute 
for  fruit  at  an  early  season,  may  procure  it  without  much 
trouble.  •It  is  customary  with  some  persons  in  the  Southern 
parts  of  England  to  keep  this  plant  growing  in  their 
kitchens,  so  that  they  may  have  it  for  use  at  any  time.  They 
have  strong  neat  boxes,  made  for  the  purpose  ;  about  three 
feet  deep  and  two  wide,  and  in  length  according  to  the 
demand,  from  four  to  eight  feet;  these  being  kept  clean, 
have  the  appearance  of  flour-bins,  and  they  are  sometimes 
so  contrived  as  to  have  shelves  over  them  in  imitation  of  a 
kitchen  dresser.  The  plants  being  taken  up  out  of  the  gar- 
den towards  Winter,  are  placed  as  close  at  the  bottom  of 
the  box  as  they  can  be  put,  with  their  crowns  level :  and 
some  sand  being  thrown  over  sufficient  to  fill  up  the  inter- 
stices, and  to  cover  the  crowns  about  half  an  inch,  finishes 
the  operation.  No  further  trouble  is  necessary,  except  to 
give  a  little  water,  just  to  keep  the  roots  moist,  as  they  need 
no  light  at  all ;  and  if  the  roots  be  planted  in  the  garden 
when  Spring  opens,  they  will,  after  having  taken  root,  vege- 
tate as  strongly  as  before  they  were  removed. 

Roots  of  Rhubarb  taken  up  in  the  Autumn,  and  packed 
in  sand  deposited  in  a  warm  cellar,  \v  '^  '*  Uice  stalks  earlier 
than  if  kept  in  the  garden,  and  if  a  hot-beds  they 

will  yield  abundantly,  and  that  at  a  .  .'Ay  season. 

The  consumption  of  this  plant  in  ._o  British  metropolis 
may  be  judged  of  by  the  following  extract  from  a  London 
Gardener's  Magazine.  "  Rhubarb,  which  has  for  some 
years  past  been  cultivated,  is  still  a  subject  of  increasing 
interest,  and  more  extensively  in  demand  than  ever.  On 
the  fifth  of  May,  no  less  than  eight  waggon  loads,  each 
weighing  at  least  a  ton,  with  an  equal  quantity  in  smaller 
proportions,  were  sold  in  Covent-garden  market  alone.  One 
cultivator,  Mr.  Myatt,  of  New  Cross,  Deptford,  had  three 
waggon  loads  ;  he  has,  I  believe,  nearly  twenty  acres  of  it 
under  culture.  This  plant  contains  an  acid  as  fine  as  the 
Gooseberry,  for  pies  and  tarts  ;  a  square  rod  of  ground  will 
supply  a  family ;  and  it  maybe  used  till  midsummer  or  later. 
For  fuller  explanations,  see  article  Rhubarb. 


123 


FORWARDING  SALAD  HERBS,  SMALL 
PLANTS,  &c. 


FOR  the  purpose  of  raising  Mustard,  Cress,  and  other 
salad  herbs,  also  Egg-plants,  Tomatoe- plants,  &c.  in  small 
quantities,  a  hot-bed  may  be  made,  early  in  the  Spring,  of 
good  heating  materials,  on  the  top  of  which  may  be  laid 
leaf  mould,  old  tan,  or  light  compost,  to  the  depth  of  about 
nine  inches.  The  various  kinds  of  seeds  may  be  sown  in 
boxes  or  flower  pots,  and  plunged  in  the  top  mould  up  to 
their  rims,  and  by  being  well  attended  to,  a  supply  of  small 
salads,  as  well  as  small  seedling  plants,  may  be  raised  with- 
out much  labour  or  difficulty.  This  method  is  also  well 
calculated  for  the  raising  of  Annual  flower  plants  at  an 
early  season. 


FORWARDING  TOMATOES. 

As  this  vegetable  has  become  highly  appreciated  of  late 
years  for  its  excellent  qualities,  it  may  be  necessary  here  to 
observe,  that  plants  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  hot- beds  the 
latter  end  of  February,  or  early  in  March,  as  directed  in 
former  pages,  will  grow  to  the  length  of  four  inches  and 
upwards,  by  the  first  of  April,  which  is  one  month  earlier 
than  they  can  with  safety  be  trusted  in  the  open  garden.  If 
a  few  of  these  be  pulled  from  the  hot-bed,  and  transplanted 
into  flower  pots,  they  may  be  kept  growing  therein  until 
settled  warm  weather,  and  then  turned  out  and  deposited 
in  the  ground  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire  ;  or  a  fruiting 
bed  may  be  prepared  by  the  first  of  April,  in  the  manner 
recommended  for  Bush  Beans,  Cucumbers,  &c.,  and  the 
plants  inserted  in  the  earth  at  once  ;  these  will  produce  ripe 
fruit  a  month  or  six  weeks  earlier  than  those  cultivated  in 
the  ordinary  way. 


124  FORCING    VEGETABLES. 

The  following  simple  method  of  forcing  vegetables  on  a 
small  scale,  is  recommended  by  a  correspondent  of  a  Lon- 
don Magazine  :— 

"  Mushrooms  in  Winter  I  obtain  by  a  very  simple  though 
not  a  new  process.  Provide  boxes  three  feet  long,  and  one 
foot  eight  inches  deep ;  a  quantity  of  horse  droppings,  per- 
fectly dry ;  some  spawn  and  some  light  dry  soil.  Fill  the 
boxes  by  layers  of  droppings,  spawn,  and  soil,  which  must 
be  trodden  perfectly  tight ;  repeat  these  triple  layers  till  the 
boxes  are  full,  and  all  trodden  firmly  together. 

"  Four  such  boxes  at  work,  are  sufficient  for  a  moderate 
demand;  and  of  a  dozen,  four  brought  on  at  a  time,  and 
placed  upon  the  flue  of  a  greenhouse  stove,  will  produce  a 
fine  supply.  The  surface  of  these  portable  beds  may  be 
covered  with  a  little  hay,  and  occasionally,  though  sparingly, 
watered.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that  they  be  set  on 
the  flue  of  a  greenhouse;  a  warm  stable,  cellar,  or  any 
other  similar  place,  will  suit  equally  well.  This  plan  i& 
also  convenient  for  affording  a  plentiful  stock  of  superior 
spawn. 

"  The  same  sized  boxes  will  also  do  for  Asparagus  ;  but 
for  this  purpose  a  sufficient  stock  of  three-year  old  plants 
must  be  at  hand ;  also  eighteen  boxes,  fow  of  which  are 
the  necessary  set  to  be  forced  at  one  time  for  a  middling 
family.  Half  fill  the  boxes  with  decayed  tanner's  bark,  leaf 
mould,  or  any  similar  mould  ;  on  this,  pack  the  roots  as 
thickly  as  possible,  and  fill  up  the  boxes  with  the  bark,  &c. 
Any  place  in  a  forcing  house  will  suit  them  ;  on  the  flue, 
under  the  stage,  or  in  short,  any  place  where  they  can 
enjoy  the  necessary  degree  of  heat.  Besides  Asparagus 
and  Mushrooms,  Sea  Kale,  Buda  Kale,  Angelica,  small 
salad,  as  also  other  pot  herbs,  may  be  raised  in  the  same 
manner." 

Those  who  have  not  the  conveniences  recommended  in 
a  greenhouse,  &c.  may  place  the  boxes  in  a  hot-bed.  The 
glasses  being  laid  on,  and  the  beds  covered  at  night,  will 
soon  promote  the  growth  of  the  plants,  and  produce  vegeta- 
table  luxuries  at  a  season  when  garden  products  in  genera! 
are  comparatively  scarce. 


METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING   THE    HOP.  125 

"  It  is  unnecessary  to  show  of  how  much  value  such 
processes  may  be  in  minor  establishments,  or  in  a  young 
country.  I  wish  it  to  be  understood,  that  in  order  to  the 
successful  cultivation  of  some  of  the  rare  vegetables  I  have 
treated  of,  great  pains  must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  their 
growth.  If  the  advice  I  have  given  be  attended  to,  I  natter 
myself  we  shall  soon  obtain  a  supply  of  many  of  these 
luxuries  of  the  garden.  My  directions  are  founded  on  the 
success  attending  the  practice  of  some  of  the  best  gardeners 
in  this  country.  I  have  also  had  sufficient  experience  to 
warrant  me  in  this  attempt  to  contribute  my  mite  towards 
the  attainment  of  this  kind  of  useful  knowledge. 


METHOD  OF  CULTIVATING  THE  HOP. 
HOUBLON.     Humulus  lupulus. 

ALTHOUGH  the  Hop  is  not  a  culinary  vegetable,  as  it  is 
more  or  less  used  in  every  part  of  our  country,  it  may  not 
be  amiss  to  treat  of  its  culture.  It  is  presumed,  that  in 
proportion  as  habits  of  temperance  are  inculcated,  our 
citizens  will  have  recourse  to  beer  as  a  wholesome  beverage  ; 
and  as  a  great  deal  depends  on  the  manner  in  which  Hops 
are  cured,  I  propose  giving  directions  for  their  management 
throughout,  so  as  to  enable  those  who  choose,  to  prepare 
their  own.  My  information  is  collected  chiefly  from  Lou- 
don's  Encyclopaedia  of  Plants. 

**  The  Hop  has  been  cultivated  in  Europe  an  unknown 
length  of  time  for  its  flowers,  which  are  used  for  preserving 
beer.  Its  culture  was  introduced  from  Flanders  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth  ;  though  indigenous  both  in 
Scotland  and  Ireland,  it  is  little  cultivated  in  those  countries, 
owing  to  the  humidity  of  their  autumnal  season.  Like 
other  plants  of  this  sort,  the  Hop  bears  its  flowers  on  dif- 
ferent individuals  ;  the  female  plants,  therefore,  are  alone 
cultivated.  There  are  several  varieties  grown  in  Kent  and 
Surrey,  under  the  name  of  Flemish,  Canterbury,  Goldings, 
&c. ;  the  first  is  the  most  hardy,  differing  little  from  the 

11* 


126  METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING   THE    HOK 

Wild  or  Hedge  Hop ;  the  Goldings  is  an  improved  and 
highly  productive  variety,  but  more  subject  to  blight  than 
the  other.* 

The  Hop  prefers  a  deep  loamy  soil  on  a  dry  bottom  ;  a 
sheltered  situation,  but  at  the  same  time  not  so  confined  as 
to  prevent  a  free  circulation  of  air.  The  soil  requires  to  be 
well  pulverized  arid  manured  previous  to  planting.  In  Hop 
districts  the  ground  is  generally  trenched  either  with  a 
plough  or  spade.  The  mode  of  planting  is  generally  in 
rows  six  feet  apart,  and  the  same  distance  in  the  row.  By 
some,  five,  six,  or  seven  plants,  are  placed  in  a  circular 
form,  which  circles  are  distant  five  or  six  feet  from  each 
other.  The  plants  or  cuttings  are  procured  from  the  most 
healthy  of  the  old  stools  ;  each  should  have  two  joints  or 
buds:  from  the  one  which  is  placed  in  the  ground  springs 
the  root,  and  from  the  other  the  stalk.  Some  plant  the 
cuttings  at  once  where  they  are  to  remain,  and  by  others 
they  are  nursed  a  year  in  a  garden.  An  interval  crop  of 
Beans  or  Cabbage  is  generally  taken  the  first  year.  Some- 
times no  poles  are  placed  at  the  plants  till  the  second  year, 
and  then  only  short  ones  of  six  or  seven  feet.  The  third 
year  the  Hop  generally  comes  into  full  bearing,  and  then 
from  four  to  six  poles  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  feet  in  length 
are  placed  to  each  circle,  or  one  pole  to  each  plant,  if  culti- 
vated in  straight  rows.  The  most  durable  timber  for  poles 
is  that  of  the  Spanish  Chesnut. 

The  after  culture  of  the  Hop  consists  in  stirring  the  soil, 
and  keeping  it  free  from  weeds  :  in  guiding  the  shoots  to 
the  poles,  and  sometimes  tying  them  for  that  purpose  with 
bass  or  withered  rushes  ;  in  eradicating  any  superfluous 
shoots  which  may  rise  from  the  root,  and  in  raising  a  small 
heap  of  earth  over  the  root  to  nourish  the  plant. 

Hops  are  known  to  be  ready  for  gathering  when  the  chaffy 
capsules  acquire  a  brown  colour,  and  a  firm  consistence. 


*  Besides  these  are  the  Farnham,  or  golden  grape,  which  is  cultivated 
for  an  early  crop ;  and  for  late  picking,  the  iVi  ayfield  grape,  or  ruffler, 
is  esteemed,  which  is  a  dwarfish  variety.  Great  caution  is  necessary, 
lest  the  varieties  get  mixed,  as  they  will  not  ripen  or  dry  equally,  and 
Consequently  cannot  be  of  one  uniform  colour  and  quality. 


METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING   THE    HOP.  127 

Each  chaffy  capsule,  or  leaf  calyx,  contains  one  seed. 
Before  these  are  picked,  the  stalks  are  detached,  arid  the 
poles  pulled  up,  and  placed  horizontally  on  frames  of  wood, 
two  or  three  poles  at  a  time.  The  Hops  are  then  picked  off 
by  women  and  children.  After  being  carefully  separated 
from  the  leaves  and  stalks,  they  are  dropped  into  a  large 
clolh  hung  all  round  within  the  frame  on  tenter  hooks. 
When  the  cloth  is  full,  the  Hops  are  emptied  into  a  large 
sack,  which  is  carried  home,  and  the  Hops  laid  on  a  kiln  to 
be  dried.  This  is  always  to  be  done  as  soon  as  possible 
after  they  are  picked,  or  they  are  apt  to  sustain  considerable 
damage,  both  in  colour  and  flavour,  if  allowed  to  remain 
long  in  the  green  state  in  which  they  are  picked.  In  very 
warm  weather,  and  when  they  are  picked  in  a  moist  state, 
they  will  often  heat  in  five  or  six  hours  ;  for  this  reason,  the 
kilns  are  kept  constantly  at  work,  both  night  and  day,  from 
the  commencement  to  the  conclusion  of  the  Hop-picking 
season. 

The  operation  of  drying  Hops  is  not  materially  different 
from  that  of  drying  malt,  and  the  kilns  are  of  the  same  con- 
struction. The  Hops  are  spread  on  a  hair  cloth,  from  eight 
to  twelve  inches  deep,  according  as  the  season  is  dry  or  wet, 
and  the  Hops  ripe  or  immature,  \\hen  the  ends  of  the  Hop 
stalks  become  quite  shrivelled  and  dry,  they  are  taken  off 
the  kiln,  and  laid  011  a  boarded  floor  till  they  become  quite 
cool,  when  they  are  put  into  bags. 

The  bagging  of  Hops  is  thus  performed :  in  the  floor  of 
the  room  where  Hops  are  laid  to  cool,  there  is  a  round  hole 
or  trap,  equal  in  size  to  the  mouth  of  a  Hop-bag.  After 
tying  a  handful  of  Hops  in  each  of  the  lower  corners  of  a 
large  bag,  which  serve  after  for  handles,  the  mouth  of  the 
bag  is  fixed  securely  to  a  strong  hoop,  which  is  made  to  rest 
on  the  edges  of  the  hole  or  trap;  and  the  bag  itself  being 
then  dropped  through  the  hole,  the  packers  go  into  it,  when 
a  person  who  attends  for  the  purpose,  puts  in  the  Hops  in 
small  quantities,  in  order  to  give  the  packer  an  opportunity 
of  packing  and  trampling  them  as  hard  as  possible.  When 
the  bag  is  filled,  and  the  Hops  trampled  in  so  hard  that  it 
will  hold  no  more,  it  is  drawn  up,  unloosed  from  the  hoop, 


128  METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING   THE   HOP. 

and  the  end  sewed  up,  two  other  handles  having  been  pre- 
viously formed  in  the  corners  in  the  manner  mentioned 
above.  The  brightest  and  finest  coloured  Hops  are  put 
into  pockets  or  fine  bagging,  and  the  brown  into  coarse  or 
heavy  bagging.  The  former  are  chiefly  used  for  brewing 
fine  ale,  and  the  latter  by  the  porter  brewers.  But  when 
Hops  are  intended  to  be  kept  two  or  three  years,  they  are 
put  into  bags  of  strong  cloth,  and  firmly  pressed  so  as  to 
exclude  the  air. 

The  stripping  and  stacking  of  the  poles  succeed  to  the 
operation  of  picking.  The  shoot  or  bind  being  stripped  off, 
such  poles  as  are  not  decayed,  are  set  up  together  in  a 
conical  pile  of  three  or  four  hundred,  the  centre  of  which  is 
formed  by  three  stout  poles  bound  together  a  few  feet  from 
their  tops,  and  their  lower  ends  spread  out. 

The  produce  of  no  crop  is  so  liable  to  variation  as  that  of 
the  Hop  ;  in  a  good  season  an  acre  will  produce  20  cwt.  but 
from  10  to  12  cwt.  is  considered  a  tolerable  average  crop. 
The  quality  of  Hops  is  estimated   by  the  abundance   or 
scarcity  of  an  unctuous  clammy  powder  which  adheres  to 
them,  and  by  their  bright  yellow  colour.     The  expenses  of 
forming  a  EIop  plantation  are  considerable ;  but  once  in 
bearing,  it  will  continue  so  for  ten  or  fifteen  years  before  it 
requires  to  be  renewed.     The  Hop  is  peculiarly  liable  to 
diseases;  when  young  it  is  devoured  by  fleas  of  different 
kinds  ;  at  a  more  advanced  stage,  it  is  attacked  by  the  green 
fly,  red  spider,  and  ottermoth,  the  Iarva3  of  which  prey  even 
upon  the  roots.     The    honey-dew  often  materially  injures 
the  Hop  crop  ;  and  the   mould,  the  fire-blast,    and   other 
blights,  injure  it  at  different  times  towards  the  latter  period 
of  the  growth  of  the  plant." 

It  appears  from  an  article  in  the  "  Genesee  Farmer," 
that  the  culture  of  Hops  is  becoming  an  important  branch 
of  husbandry  in  the  State  of  New- York.  A  correspondent 
observes,  that  "  as  fine  samples  have  been  grown  in  Orange 
and  Madison  counties  as  in  any  part  of  the  world.  The 
Hop  is  considered  somewhat  precarious ;  but  when  the 
season  is  good,  the  profit  is  very  great.  The  average  product 
may  be  stated  at  700  Ibs.,  though  it  has  reached  1600  Ibs. 


METHOD  OP    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP.  129 

to  the  acre ;  and  in  the  latter  case  the  expense  amounted 
tb  sixty  dollars.  The  ordinary,  or  average  price,  may  be 
stated  at  eighteen  cents  per  pound.  The  profits  on  an 
ordinary  crop,  according  to  these  assumed  data,  would  be 
about  seventy  dollars  from  the  acre.  It  often  falls  materially 
short  of  this,  however,  from  the  want  of  knowledge  and  care 
in  gathering  and  drying  the  crop. 

"  The  quantity  of  Hops  taken  to  Albany  and  the  neigh- 
bouring towns  on  the  Hudson,  this  year,  (1834)  has  been 
estimated  at  2,300  bales,  or  500,000  Ibs., which,  had  not  many 
of  them  been  prematurely  gathered,  or  badly  cured,  would 
have  yielded  to  the  growers  ninety  or  a  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  But  of  the  2,300  bales,  there  was  not  more  than 
200  bales,  we  are  informed,  that  ought  to  have  received  the 
denomination  of  first  sorts.  Many  of  them  were  picked  too 
early,  before  the  matter  that  imparts  to  them  their  value  was 
sufficiently  developed  ;  and  others  were  scorched  or  smoked 
in  curing.  This  carelessness  has  seriously  affected  the 
character  of  our  Hops  abroad,  and  they  are  no  longer  pup- 
chased  by  the  Philadelphia  brewers.  They  would  soon 
form  an  important  article  of  export,  if  their  character  was 
raised  by  care  in  their  culture  and  drying,  and  a  rigid 
inspection." 

The  young  shoots  of  both  wild  and  cultivated  Hops  are 
considered  by  some  as  very  wholesome,  and  are  frequently 
gathered  in  the  Spring,  boiled,  and  eaten  as  Asparagus. 
The  stalk  and  leaves  will  dye  wool  yellow.  From  the  stalk 
a  strong  cloth  is  made  in  Sweden,  the  mode  of  preparing 
wiiich  is  described  by  Linna3us  in  his  Flora  Suecica.  A 
decoction  of  the  roots  is  said  to  be  as  good  a  sudorific  as 
Sarsaparilla  ;  and  the  smell  of  the  flowers  is  soporific.  A 
pillow  filled  with  Hop  flowers  will  induce  sleep,  unattended 
with  the  bad  effects  of  soporifics,  which  require  to  be  taken 
internally. 


131 


OBSERVATIONS 


ON  THE 


Q1  Hi®  WHIB  (ft  ^  IB  IE) 


PRETIOUS  to  forming  a  flower  garden,  the  ground  should 
be  made  mellow  and  rich,  by  being  well  pulverized,  ma- 
nured, and  prepared  in  every  respect  as  if  intended  for  a 
kitchen  garden.  A  flower  garden  should  be  protected  from 
cold  cutting  winds  by  close  fences,  or  plantations  of  shrubs, 
forming  a  close  and  compact  hedge,  which  should  be  neatly 
trimmed  every  year.  Generally  speaking,  a  flower  gar- 
den should  not  be  on  a  large  scale,  the  beds  or  borders 
should  in  no  part  of  them  be  broader  than  the  cultivator 
can  reach,  without  treading  on  them  :  the  shape  and  num- 
ber of  the  beds  must  be  determined  by  the  size  of  the 
ground,  and  the  taste  of  the  person  laying  out  the  garden. 

Much  of  the  beauty  of  a  pleasure  garden  depends  on  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  laid  out ;  a  great  variety  of  figures 
may  be  indulged  in  for  the  flower  beds.  Some  choose  oval 
or  circular  forms,  others  squares,  triangles,  hearts,  diamonds, 
<fec.,  intersected  with  winding  grass  paths  and  gravel  walks. 
In  the  design  of  an  ornamental  garden,  nature  should  be 
imitated  as  nearly  as  practicable,  not  only  in  the  formation 
and  regulation  of  the  flower  beds,  but  in  the  adaptation  of 
each  species  to  its  peculiar  element,  soil,  and  situation, 
taking  into  consideration,  that  the  inmates  of  a  garden  con- 
stituting as  they  do  a  mingled  groupe,  collected  from  all 
the  different  climates  and  soils  of  the  vegetable  creation, 
require  each  their  njost  essential  aliment,  to  promote  a 
luxuriant  growth. 


132  OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE    5%OWJgR 

Neatness  should  be  the  prevailing  characteristic  of  a 
flower  garden,  which  should  be  so  situated  as  to  form  an 
ornamental  appendage  to  the  house  ;  and,  where  circum- 
stances will  admit,  placed  before  windows  exposed  to  a 
southern  or  south-eastern  aspect.  The  principle  on  which 
it  is  laid  out,  ought  to  be  that  of  exhibiting  a  variety  of 
colour  and  form,  so  blended  as  to  produce  one  beautiful 
whole.  In  a  small  flower  garden,  viewed  from  the  windows 
of  a  house,  this  effect  is  best  produced  by  beds,  or  borderi, 
formed  on  the  side  of  each  other,  and  parallel  to  the  win- 
dows from  whence  they  are  seen,  as  by  that  position  the 
colours  show  themselves  to  the  best  advantage.  In  a  retired 
part  of  the  garden,  a  rustic  seat  may  be  formed,  over  and 
around  which  grape  vines,  or  honeysuckles,  and  other 
sweet  and  ornamental  creepers  and  climbers,  may  be  trained 
on  trellises,  so  as  to  afford  a  pleasant  rural  retreat. 

In  extensive  pleasure  grounds  a  rockery,  formed  of  rough 
stone,  and  rich  light  soil,  may  be  erected  in  imitation  of  a 
mountain,  on  which  maybe  cultivated  various  plants  natives 
of  mountainous  districts,  and  such  indigenous  plants  as  are 
calculated  for  the  situation,  also  herbaceous  plants,  pro- 
cumbent and  trailing,  such  as  Messembry  anthem  urns, 
Climbing  Cordydalis,  the  various  species  of  Silene,  or  Catch 
Fly,  Gypsophilu,  Lotus,  Ricota  or  Syrian  Honesty,  Go- 
detia,  &c.  These  being  interspersed  with  dwarf  plants  of 
different  species,  as  Mountain  Lychnis,  Violets,  Daisies, 
&c.,  and  so  arranged  as  to  cover  a  great  proportion  of  the 
rocky  surface,  must  necessarily  produce  a  very  pleasing 
effect. 

Although  the  greatest  display  is  produced  by  a  general 
flower  garden,  that  is,  by  cultivating  such  a  variety  of  sorts 
in  one  bed  or  border,  as  may  nearly  insure  a  constant 
blooming  ;  yet  bulbous  plants,  while  ossential  to  the  per- 
fection of  the  flower  garden,  lose  something  of  their  pculiar 
beauty  when  not  cultivated  by  themselves.  The  extensive 
variety  of  bulbous  roots  furnishes  means  for  the  formation 
of  a  garden,  the  beauty  of  which,  arising  from  an  intermix- 
ture of  every  variety  of  form  and  colour,  would  well  repay 
the  trouble  of  cultivation,  particularly  as  by  a  judicious 


OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE    FLOWER   GARDEN.  133 

selection  and  management,  a  succession  of  bfoom  may  be 
kept  up  for  some  length  of  time.  As,  however,  bulbous 
flowers  lose  their  richest  tints  about  the  same  time  that 
annuals  begin  to  display  their  beauty,  there  can  be  no 
well-founded  objection  to  the  latter  being  transplanted  into 
the  bulbous  beds,  so  that  the  opening  blossoms  of  the 
annuals  may  fill  the  place  of  those  just  withered,  and  con- 
tinue to  supply  the  flower-beds  with  all  the  gaiety  and 
splendour  of  the  floral  kingdom. 

The  cultivation  of  Annual  Flowers  is  a  delightful  employ- 
merit,  and  well  adapted  to  the  amusement  of  a  Lady,  who, 
with  the  assistance  of  a  labourer  to  prepare  the  ground,  may 
turn  a  barren  waste  into  a  beauteous  flower  garden  with  her 
own  hands.  Sowing  the  seeds,  transplanting,  watering  and 
training  the  plants,  tying  them  to  sticks  as  props,  leading 
them  over  trellis  work,  and  gathering  their  seed,  are  all 
suitable  for  feminine  occupation,  and  from  their  affording 
motives  for  exercise  in  the  open  air,  they  contribute  greatly 
to  health,  and  tranquillity  of  mind. 

But  the  taste  of  the  florist  will  be  exercised  to  little  pur- 
pose, in  the  selection  of  Flowers,  if  strict  attention  be  not 
paid  to  the  general  state  of  the  garden.  If  there  are  lawns 
or  grass  walks,  they  should  be  frequently  trimmed,  and 
more  frequently  mowed  and  rolled,  to  prevent  the  grass 
from  interfering  with  the  flower  beds,  and  to  give  the 
whole  a  neat,  regular,  carpet-like  appearance  If  there  are 
gravel  walks,  they  should  be  frequently  cleaned,  replenished 
with  fresh  gravel,  and  rolled.  Box,  and  other  edgings, 
should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  neatly  trimmed  every 
Spring.  Decayed  plants  should  be  removed,  and  replaced 
with  vigorous  ones  from  the  nursery  bed.  Tall  flowering 
plants  must  be  supported  by  neat  poles  or  rods  ;  and  all 
dead  stalks  and  leaves  from  decayed  flowers  must  be  fre- 
quently removed 

In  the  summer  season,  all  kinds  of  insects  must  be  timely 
destroyed,  and  in  the  evenings  of  warm  days,  the  flowers 
will  require  frequent  watering. 

12 


134 

INTRODUCTION  TO  THE  CATALOGUE  or 
ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS, 

To  raise  your  flowers,  various  arts  combine  ; 
Study  these  well,  and  fancy's  flight  decline. 
If  you  would  have  a  vivid,  vigorous  breed, 
Of  every  kind,  examine  well  the  seed: 
Learn  to  what  ELEMENTS  your  plants  belong,' 
What  is  their  constitution,  weak  or  strong  ; 
Be  their  physician,  careful  of  their  lives, 
And  see  that  every  species  daily  thrives ; 
These  love  much  AIR,  these  on  much  HEAT  rely, 
These  without  genial  MOISTURE,  droop  and  die. 
Supply  the  wants  of  each,  and  they  will  pay 
For  all  your  care  through  each  succeeding  day. 

WITH  a  view  to  render  this  work  more  generally  interest- 
ing, a  classification  and  definition  of  the  various  species  and 
varieties  embraced  in  the  annexed  Catalogue,  is  attempted. 
Precision,  however,  in  the  performance  of  this  task  is  im- 
practicable, as  it  must  be  conceded  that  the  vegetable  fa- 
mily, having  been  collected  from  all  the  varied  climates  and 
soils,  will  differ  as  to  height,  complexion,  time  of  blossoming, 
and  in  many  other  essential  points,  when  cultivated  out  of 
their  natural  element. 

Some  seeds  germinate  in  two  or  three  days  after  being 
deposited  in  the  earth  ;  other  species  will  not  exhibit  signs 
of  vegetation  under  as  many  weeks.  These  and  other  dis- 
tinguishing features  arise,  in  a  great  measure,  from  their 
having  originated  in  diverse  soils  and  climates.  Natives 
of  cool  or  temperate  climates  and  moist  soils,  are  generally 
tardy  in  germinating  when  cultivated  in  a  warm  climate  and 
dry  soil,  for  want  of  a  due  share  of  their  most  essential 
aliment,  MOISTURE  ;  and  natives  of  warm  climates  and 
light  soils,  require  artificial  culture  in  cool  seasons,  and 
unpropitious  climates,  in  order  to  their  being  accommo- 
dated with  their  natural  and  most  important  aliment,  HEAT. 
AIR  is  also  a  more  necessary  aliment  to  some  species  than 
to  others,  but  these  three  elements  collectively,  constitute 


ANNUAL    FLOWER   SEEDS.  135 

the  food  of  plants  in  general.  It  may  be  also  observed  that 
the  adaptation  of  plants  to  a  soil  congenial  for  them,  is  of 
the  utmost  importance  ;  as  plants  cannot  thrive  well,  when 
improper  food  is  absorbed  by  their  roots. 

Under  favorable  circumstances,  annual  flower  plants,  in 
general,  will  produce  their  flower  buds  within  two  months 
from  the  period  of  sowing  the  seed.  Some  species,  soon 
after  exhibiting  their  brilliant  blossoms,  disappear,  while 
others  embellish  the  borders  by  their  successional  bloom  for 
two  or  three  months.  An  assortment  of  seed  judiciously 
selected,  and  sown  in  due  season,  will  afford  amusement  to 
the  cultivator  the  greater  part  of  a  summer,  and  yield  seed 
for  the  propagation  of  the  species  in  succeeding  years,  if 
gathered  when  ripe,  and  carefully  preserved. 

Annual  plants  will  grow  from  one  to  four  feet  in  height, 
in  one  uniform  soil  and  situation,  but  as  these  are  diversified 
in  almost  every  garden,  no  correct  conclusion  can  be  drawn  ; 
an  attempt,  however,  has  been  made  in  the  annexed  cata- 
logue, to  describe  the  various  species  as  nearly  as  possible, 
which  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  gardener  in  planting  ; 
the  most  dwarfish  being  adapted  to  the  front  or  outer  edge 
of  the  borders,  and  others  in  regular  gradation. 

Those  species  market!  thus,  §  are  tender.  Those  marked 
thus,  *  should  be  sown  in  the  spot  where  they  are  intended 
to  blossom,  as  they  are  apt  to  droop  and  die  by  being  trans- 
planted. A  few  are  marked  thus,  f.  These  though  culti- 
vated as  annuals,  from  their  facilities  in  blossoming  and 
ripening  their  seed  the  first  season,  are  in  reality  peren- 
nial, as  are  also  some  other  varieties  from  warm  climates, 
usually  denominated  annuals ;  but  as  such  could  not  be 
cultivated  at  all  by  those  who  have  no  means  of  protecting 
their  plants  through  our  severe  winters,  they  may  with 
great  propriety  be  treated  as  tender  annuals,  by  sowing  the 
seed  every  Spring. 


136 

A  CATALOGUE  OF 

ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS. 
Graines  de  fleures  annuelles. 


§   Denotes  tender.  \  Perennial.  *  Difficult  to  transplant.  HEIGHT 

IN  FEET 

§Ageratum,  Mexican,  blue,  Agerat um  Mcxicana  Ito2 

Alkekengi,  or  Kite  Flower,  lilac.        Atropa  Physaloides  2  to  4 

tAlyssum  Sweet,  white.  Alyssum  Maritima  1 

§  Amaranthus,  three-coloured.  Amarantkus  Tricolor  2  to  3 

*Argemone,  or  Prickly  Poppy;  yel-  Argcmone  Mexicana,  grand  ijlora, 

low,  cream  colour  and  white.  ochrolcnca,etc.  2  £04 

Astor,  Chinese  and  German,  white,  Aster,  ChinensiSjVar.alba^ubra, 

red,  striped,  purple,  &c.  striata,  purpurea,  etc.          1/02 

§  Balsams;  three  species  and nume-   Balsamina  hortensis,  Mastersiana, 

erous  varieties,  scarlet,  striped,         cornuta,coccinea}  striata,  purpurea 

purple,  crimson,  white,  &c-  alba,  etc  1  to  2 

^Bartonia,  the  Golden.  Bartonia  aurea.  2to3 

Bladder  Ketmia,  buff,  dark  centre.     Hibiscus  trionum  1  to  2 

Blue  Bottle  great,  Centaur ea  cyanus,  major         3204 

Blue  Bottle,  small.  Centaurea  cyanus,  minor          1  to  2 

Blumenbachia,  white.  Blumenbachia.insignis,  under         1 

$Bro\vallia,  or  Amethyst,  blue,white.  Browallia  elata,  alba,  etc.          1  to  2 
$Caealia,  scarlet.  Cacalia  coccinea  1  to  2 

Calliopsis;  Drummond's  Coreopsis.  Calliopsis  Drummondii  2  to  3 

Calandrina  Annual,  crimson.  Calandrina  speciosa,  etc.  Ito2 

tCalandrina,  rose  and  purple  tinged. Calandrina  discolor,  etc.  2*03 

*Candytuft,  white  and  purple.  Jberisalba,    purpurea,  etc.  1 

*Catch  Fly,  purple  and  red.  SUenc purpurea ,  muscipula,etc.2to3 

*Catch  Fly,  dwarf  pink,  spotted, &c.  Silene  Armena,  picta,  etc.        I  to  2 
*  Caterpillars,  Hedge   Hogs  and       Mcdicago  circinnatat  intertexta, 

Snails,  curious.  scutcllata,  etc  1  to  2 

Centaurea,  or  pink  sultan.  Centaurea  Americana  2  to  3 

China  Pink,  of  every  shade.  Dianthus,Chinensis,annuus      l£02 

§Cleome,  rose  coloured,  white,  &c.  Cleomc  rosea,  spinoca,  etc.      2£03 
Chrysanthemum,  white,  yellow  Chrysanthemum,  coronarium, 

and  three-coloured.  alba,  lutca,  tricolor,  etc.  2  to  3 

Clarkia,  rose,  purple,  white,  &c.         Clarkia  elegans,  pulchella,etc.  Ito2 
§Clintonia,  elegant  blue.  Clintonia  elegans  1  <0 2 

§  Cockscomb,  crimson  and  yellow,     Celocia  cristata,  lutea  2  to  3 

$Collinsia,  lilac,  white,  two-coloured  Collinsia  hetropJdlla,,  bicolor2to  3; 
Commelina,  blue-flowering.  Cammelina    ccclestis,  I 


ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS.  137 

$  Denotes  tender,  t  Perennial.  *  Difficult  to  transplant.'  HEIGHT 

IN  FEET 

*  Convolvulus,  dwarf  variegated  &c.  Convolvulus  minor,  trirolor       1  to2 
Coreopsis,  Golden,  dark  centre.          Calliopsis  tinctoria.  3  to  4 

§  Cotton  Plant,  cream.  Gossypium  lierbaceum  3  to  4 

Crotalaria,  purple,  yellow  and  white  Crotalaria  verrncosa,  etc.  1  to  2 

Cuphea  Mexican,  scarlet, variegated  C  upfaa  lanceolata,  etc.  ito  2 

tDahlia,  Mexican,  various.  #«M<z  sup-rftua  3  to  Q 

Devil  in  the  Bush,  or  Love  in  a  Mist,  Nigella  damascene  Hispanica, 

blue,  yellow,  pirple,  white,  &c.          Orientalis,  saliva,  etc.         1  to  2 
Dwarf  Love  in  a  Mist,  various  Nigella  nana  I 

tDew  Plant,  crimson.  Mesembryanthemum    glabrum  I  to  2 

tDidiscus  azure  blue.  Didiscus  caruleus.  2  to  3 

$Egg  Plant,  white,  for  ornament.      Solatium  mdongena  1  to2 

tEschsch  Itzia  or  Chryseis,  yellow,  Eschscholtzia.crocca,  cristate, 

red  and  orange.  Calif ornica,  etc.  1 

Eternal  Flower,  yellow,  purple          Xeranthemum  lucidum,  var,  lutea, 

and  white,  bracteatum,  alba.  2  to  3 

Euphorbia,  variegated.  Euphorbia  va>iegata.  2  to  3 

^Evening  Primrose,  dwarf  annual,  Oenolhera  linearis,  Drummondii, 

white,  yellow,  red,  &c.  letraplera,  micrantha,  ttc.    1  to  2 

*Eveniug  Primrose,  large  yellow.      Otno/hera  grandijlora  2  /o  .3 

'Evening  Primrose,   willow  leaved,  Ocnothera  salcifMa  3  to  4 

Feather   Grass.  Stipa  pinnata,  atenacea         1  <o2 

*Flos  Adonis,  or  Pheasant  Eye,red.  Adonis  minata  1  to  2 

tFrancoa,  pink  and  purple.  Fran  oa    appcnduulata  Ito  2 

Garidella,  Nigella  like.  Gariddla  nigellastrum  Ifo2 

Gilia,  blue,  pink,  variegated,  &c.      Gilia  capitata,  tricolor,  etc.  2 

$  Globe  Amaranthus,  crimson.white.  Gomphrena  globosa  I  to  2 

Grove  Love,  blue.  Nemophila  insignis  1 

tGodetia,  the  Twiggy,  purple.  Godctia  viminea  3  to  4 

Godetia  the  Ruddy,  annual.  Godetia  rubricunda  2  to  3 

Godetia  ,  dwarf,  purple  and  spotted.  Godctia  lepida,Lyndleyana  etc.  1  to  2 

*Gypsophila.  pink  and  white.  Gypsophila  elfgans,  viscosa.      1  to2 

Hawkweed,  yellow  and  red  Crepisbarbata,  rubra.  1  to  2 

^Hibiscus,  yellow,  with  redishcentre  Hibiscus  Africanus  2  to  3 

*Horned  Poppy,  yellow  and  scarlet.    Glauccum  luteum,  ph&niceum   2 to3 

tHunnemania,  brilliant  yellow.  Hunnemania  famarix  folia      3  to  4 

Hypecoum,  three  species,  yellow.       Hypecoum,  procumbens,  etc.     Ito2 

^Ice  Plant,  white.  Mesembryanthemum,  chrystalinurn  1 

tJacobea,  purple,  spotted, &c.  Seneciopurpnrea,elegansetc.    Ito2 

Job's  Tears,  gray.  Coix  lachryma,  Jobi  2  to  3 

Larkspur,  dwarf  Rocket,  white,  blue,   Delphinium  ajacis.  alba 

purple,  pink  and  other  colours.  cosru'ea,  purpureo,   etc.     Ito  2 

Larkspur,  branching,  similar  variety  Delphinium  consoUda,  ttc.       2to3 
Lavatera,  red,  purple  and  white.         Lavatera,  trimestris.  alba}  etc.  4  to  6 

12* 


138  ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS. 

§  Denotes' tender,  t  Pertnnial.  *  Difficult  to  transplant.  HEIGHT 

IN  FEET 

Love  lies  bleeding,  crimson.  Amaranthus  melancholicus        2  to  3 

Lunaria,  purple.  Lunaria  purpurea  1  to  2 

*  Lupins,  dwarf  annual,yellow,  pur-  Lupinus  nanus,  densi- 

pie,  rose,  two  coloured,  &c.  florus,  li-co!or,  etc.  1  to  2 

Maleshcrbia,  blue.  Maleslierbia  coronata  2  to  3 

*Malope,  tall  scarlet  M alope  grandiflora  3to4 

*Malope,  dwarf  crimson,  rose.  Malope    trifida,  malacoides     I  to  2 

Marigold,  African,  yellow,  orange.    Tagetes  erecta  3  to  4 

Marigold,  French,  variegated.  Tagetes  patula  2/03 

Marigold,  sweet,     yellow  striped      Calendula  offidnalin  1  to  2 

§Marigold,  Fig.  yellow  Mesembryanthcmum,  annuus  1 

Martynia,  or.  Cuckold's  Horn.  Marty nia  probosddea  2  to  3 

tMarvd  of  Peru,  or  Four  O'Clocks,  Mirabilis  jalapa^  latea,  rubra, 

white  yellow, red,  striped,  scented        striata,  longiflora,etc.        2  to  3 
tMignonette,  sweet  scented.  Reseda  odorata      under  1 

tMonkey   Flower,   yellow,  scarlet,  Mimulus  moschaius,  cardinalis, 

rose,  &c.  variegated,  rivularius,roseus,etc.  I  to  2 

§Nierembergia.  several  varieties  of     Nierembergia  intermedia,  violacea, 

various  colours.  phctni<:ia,etc.  2to$ 

Nolana  in  varieties,  blue.  Nolana  paradoxia,prtstrata,etcl  to  2 

*Oats,  animated.  Avena  sensitiva  2fo3 

tPansey  or  Heart's   Ease,  purple,   Viola,  tri-color,  grandiflora, 
blue,  yellow,  and  numerous  shades,         atro  purpurea,  ccerulea, 

variegated.  lutea,  etc.  wider  1 

Pentaptes,  scarlet.  Pentaptes  phanicia  2 

Phlox,  annual,  rosy  red.  Phlox  Drummondii  1  to  2 

Pimpernel,  blue  and  scarlet.  Anagallis  indica,  arvensis  1 

*  Poppy,  large  white  and  scarlet.         Papaver  somniferum ,  coccinea  3  to  4 
*Poppy  dwarf,  scarlet  white,  yel-     Papaver  rhaas,  nudicale  Persi- 

low,  striped,  Persian  red,  &c.  cum,rubra,   striata,  etc.  1  to  2 

Prince's  Feather,  crimson.  Amaranthus  hypocondriacus  2  to  3 

Rocket  Candytuft  white.  Iberis  coronaria                        1  to  2 

Rose  Campion,  annual,  dwarf  red,  Agrostemma,  cceli  rosea,  githago, 

purple,  white,  striped,  &,c.  laeta,etc.                                     1 
Salpiglossis,    variegated,  purple,&c-  Satpiglostis,  atropvpurea     2  to  3 

Saphonariaor  Silene,  rose  Saphonaria  vaccaria                 2lo3 

tSchizanthus  in  variety,  orange,  Sshizanthu*  retusus,  pinnatus, 

wing-leaved,  &c.  oblusi  folia,  etc.     ,                  \  to  2 

Scabious,  or  Morning  Bride,  purple  Scabiosa  atro  purpurea  2  to  3 

§  Sensitive  Plant,  red  Mimosa  sensitirn                 under  I 

Shortia,  yellow.  Short ia  California                     1  to  2' 

Stock  Gilly,  Virginian,  lilac.  Malccmiamaritima                         1 

Strawberry  Spinach, red  fruit.  BUtum  capitatum 

Strephtanthus,  rose  coloured.  Slrephtanthus obtusifolius 


ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS.  1  39 

Denotes    tender,    f    Perennial,     *    Diffl«olt  t«  transplant  HEIGHT 


Sunflower,  yellow.                                Helianihus  annuus  6  to 

Sunflower  dwarf,  yellow.                     Hilianthus  minor,  nanus  2  to  3 

Sun  Rose,  spotted.                                 Helianthemumguttatum  1  to  2 

*5weet  Balm,  blue.                              Melissa  odoratum  1*»2 

*Sweet  Basil,  blush,  lilac,                  Ocymum  basiliacum  1  to<% 

Sweet  Sultau,  white,  yellow,  purple  Centaurea  moschata,  etc.  1  to  % 
*Ten  Week  Stock,  scarlet,  purple,     Mzthiola  annua  nar. 

white,  &c»                                              graca  tenella  etc*  1  /o« 

^Tobacco  in  varieties,  scarlet,  yellow  Nicotiana,  tabacum  rustica  3  to  4 

Touch  me  not,  yellow.                         Noli  mi  tangere  1 

Trefoil,  crimson  and  scented.              Trifolium  incarnatum,  etc.  3  to  4 

*  Venus'  Looking  Glass,  lilac.           C  ampanula  tpeculum  I<o2 

Vesicaria  in  varieties,  yellow.               VesicariagrandiJloTa,  etc  2  to  3 
t  Verbena  in  varieties,  scarlet,  rose,    Verbena  aubletia.bonariensif, 

blue,  lilac,  pink,  &c.                           Drummondii  pulchella,ctr.  1  to  2 
Zinnia,  scarlet,  yellow,  violet             Zinnia  coccinea,latta,grandifloTa 

coloured,  red,  &c.                               rubra,  etc.  '2  to  3 

The  following  are  climbing  and  trailing  plants,  which 
should  be  planted  in  situations,  where  they  can  be  sup- 
ported by  poles,  twine,  or  trellises. 

The  tallest  growing  vines  and  creepers  are  best  adapted 
to  the  covering  of  arbours,  to  create  shade,  or  conceal  any 
unsightly  object  ;  the  procumbent  trailing  and  low  climbing 
plants,  such  a«  the  Nasturtium,  Loasa,  Petunia,  Sweet 
Pea,  <fcc.  may  be  trained  on  trellis  work  of  an  ornamental 
form,  as  that  of  a  fan,  balloon,  or  pyramid,  which  should 
be  on  a  scale  corresponding  to  the  situation  and  extent  of 
the  garden. 

Balloon  Vine,  or  Love  in  a  Puff  CardiospermumhalicacabumoTerlO 

§  Balsam.  Apple  and  Pear  Momordica   balsamina         oxer  10 

Bean  Hyacinth,  white  and  purple  Dolichos  alba,  purpurea      over  10 

§  Bean,  scarlet  flowering  Phaseolus  multiflorus           over  10 

Bean,  Castor  Oil  or  Palma  christi.  Ricinus  Communis                  5  to  6 

§  Cypress  Vine,  scarlet  and  white  Jpomosa  coccinea,  alba,          orer  1Q 

Gourd,  Mock  Orange,  in  varieties  Cucurblta  bicolor,  aurantia  orer  10 

Gourd  the  Bottle,  in  varieties.  Cucurbita  lagenaria,  elarata        10 

$  Loasa  orChillian  Nettle,  orange  Loasa  lateritia,  aurantiacaetc3  to  6 
{Morning  Glory,  scarlet  striped,&c.  Ipomcca  toccinea,  striata,etc  *ter  10 


140  ANNUAL     FLOWER    SEEDS. 

Morning  Glory,  of  the  Convolvulus  Convolvulus    major,    purpurea, 
tribe,     purple,  striped,   yellow,     ccerulea,  striata,  lutea,  incarnata, 
pink,  white,  &c,  alba  etc  over  10 

Nasturtium,  orange  and  crimson       Trop&clum  atrosanguincum 

variegated.  nana  etc  4  to  6 

^Thuubergia, wing-leaved,  purple       Thunbergia  alata  4  to  6 

tPetunia,  purple,  white  rose  8fc.        Petunia   nyclaginifiora ,  etc.  2  to  3 
Sweet  Peas,  various  complexions,       Lathyrus  odoratus,  var.  alba,  pur- 
white,  purple,  red,  rose,  striped  &c.    purea,  ro'sea,  striata,  etc,         3  to  4 

As  many  city  gardens  are  so  limited  as  not  to  admit  of 
an  extensive  assortment  of  flowers,  a  select  list  may  be 
made  from  the  above  catalogue  to  suit  the  taste  of  such  as 
may  be  so  situated  ;  and  amateurs,  who  cultivate  on  a  larger 
scale,  can  obtain  such  additional  sorts  as  may  be  desired  at 
the  different  seed  stores,  under  their  various  names. 

Previous  to  providing  annual  flower  seeds,  th£  cultivator 
should  lay  out  a  plan  of  his  garden,  and  in  making 
allotments  of  ground  for  any  particular  purpose,  provision 
should  be  made  for  a  select  assortment  of  such  bulbous, 
tuberous,  and  perennial  plant?,  as  may  be  deemed  most 
worthy  of  attention,  not  forgetting  to  leave  room  for  some 
of  the  choicest  varieties  of  the  Dahlia,  the  qualities  of  which 
will  be  described  hereafter. 

Another  consideration  is,  to  have  suitable  implements 
ready,  so  that  the  work  may  be  performed  in  a  skilful 
manner,  and  at  the  proper  season.  A  spade,  rake,  hoe, 
trowel,  drilling  machine,  and  pruning  knife,  maybe  deemed 
essentials  ;  and  in  order  to  have  the  beds  laid  out,  with  the 
eilges  straight  and  even,  a  garden  line  should  be  in  rea- 
diness. If  labels  should  be  required,  they  may  be  made  of 
shingles,  which  being  split  into  strips  of  about  an  inch  wide, 
and  sharpened  at  one  end,  will  serve  for  marking  distinct 
kinds,  either  in  pots,  or  on  the  borders.  In  order  to  have 
the  names  or  numbers  written  in  legible  characters,  the 
labels  should  be  painted  on  the  smooth  side  with  white  lead, 
and  then  marked  with  black  lead  pencil  before  the  paint 
gets  dry  ;  inscriptions  made  in  this  way,  will  be  as  durable 
as  the  label  itself. 


ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS.  141 

The  next,  and  perhaps  the  most  important  consideration, 
is,  to  have  the  ground  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed. 
In  order  to  obtain  this  desirable  object,  let  some  good  rich 
compost,  or  very  old  manure,  be  provided  and  well  mixed 
with  the  soil ;  dig  it  a  full  spit  deep,  pulverizing  every 
particle.  It  would  be  an  advantage  if  the  ground  could  be 
dug  to  a  great  depth  at  the  clearing  up  of  Winter,  and  then 
again  at  the  period  of  sowing  seed  in  the  SPRING  : 

"I  corne,  I  come — ye  have  called  me  long  — 
I  come  o'er  the  mountains  with  light  and  song  ! 
Ye  may  trace  my  steps  o'er  the  wakening  earth, 
By  the  winds  which  tell  of  the  Violet's  birth, 
By  the  Primrose-stars  in  the  shadowy  grass, 
By  the  green  leaves  opening  as  I  pass." 

A  mellow  loam,  which  is  a  medium  earth  between  the 
extremes  of  clay  and  sand,  enriched  with  pulverized  manure 
or  compost,  is  adapted  to  the  generality  of  flowering 
plants ;  ground  however  of  a  boggy  nature,  composed  of 
black  earth,  decayed  leaves,  &c.,  and  in  a  low  situation, 
is  essential  to  the  luxuriant  growth  of  amphibious  plants, 
as  Water  Lilies,  Iris,  Lobelia,  and  the  like,  but  as  the 
cultivator  has  not  always  a  choice,  he  may  select  such 
plants  only,  as  are  most  congenial  to  his  peculiar  soil  and 
situation. 

Previous  to  digging  flower  beds  or  borders,  care  must  be 
taken  that  they  be  so  arranged  as  to  lay  rather  highest  in 
the  middle;  this  is  essential  to  the  draining  off  a  redun- 
dancy of  water,  as  well  as  to  the  exhibition  of  plants  to  the 
greatest  possible  advantage. 

All  kinds  of  annual  flower  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the 
month  of  April  and  May,  op  borders  or  beds  of  pulverized 
earth  ;  the  beds  should  be  levelled,  and  the  seeds  sown 
either  in  small  patches,  each  kind  by  itself,  or  in  drills  from 
an  eighth  to  half  an  inch  deep,  according  to  the  size  or 
nature  of  the  seed.  Lupins,  Peas,  <fcc.,  should  be  planted 
about  half  an  inch  deep.  Those  who  would  have  their  plants 
to  flower  early,  should  sow  the  hardy  kinds  the  last  week  in 
March,  or  early  in  April.  Those  varieties  marked  thus  |, 
and  thus  §  may  be  sown  in  boxes,  or  pots  of  light  earth,  at 
the  same  time.  These,  if  exposed  to  the  sun  every  day,  and 


142  ANNUAL  FLOWER  SEEDS. 

sheltered  in  cold  nights,  will  be  forwarded  in  growth  and  be 
fit  to  transplant  early  in  June,  Those  marked  *,  may  be 
also  sown  in  small  pots,  and  as  these  plants  do  not  bear 
transplanting,  they  should  be  turned  out  ofthe  pots  with  the 
balls  of  earth  entire,  and  placed  in  the  ground  where  they 
are  intended  to  flower ;  or,  if  the  seed  be  sown  in  a  bed  with 
other  kinds,  they  should  be  carefully  transplanted  with  a 
trowel,  without  disturbing  their  roots. 

The  most  eligible  way  to  obtain  early  flowers  is  to  prepare 
a  slight  hot  bed  for  the  tender  kinds,  (see  calendar  for  Janu- 
ary) and  either  to  plunge  the  pots  therein  up  to  their  brims, 
or  to  sow  the  seed  in  the  earth  in  shallow  drills,  riot  more 
than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  It  may  be  necessary  to  state 
that  although  in  favourable  seasons,  flower  seed  in  general 
will  come  up  in  from  one  to  three  weeks  after  it  is  sown, 
the  seed  of  Cypress  vine  will  not  grow  until  settled  warm 
weather,  unless  in  a  hot  bed  ;  it  should  then  be  partially 
scalded  in  water,  previous  to  sowing  it. 

If  some  ofthe  hardy  annuals  be  sown  in  September,  they 
will  grow  large  enough  to  survive  the  Winter,  by  a  slight 
covering  of  straw  or  litter  ;  and  if  plants  thus  raised  be 
transplanted  early  in  the  Spring,  they  will  produce  very 
early  flowers.  The  following  are  some  of  the  hardiest : 
Alyssum,  sweet  Evening  Primrose 

Coreopsis,  in  varieties  Larkspur,  in  varieties 

China  aster,  in  varieties  Pansey,  or  Heart's  ease 

Catch  fly  Poppy,  in  varieties 

C  hrysanthemum,  in  varieties  Rocket  Larkspur. 

To  prevent  disappointment,  I  would  recommend  that  great 
care  be  taken  to  keep  the  seed  beds  as  clear  from  weeds 
as  possible.  It  cannot  be  denied  but  young  plants  are  apt 
to  get  smothered,  and  sometimes  pulled  up  with  weeds. 
To  obviate  this,  I  would  suggest  that  the  seeds  be  sown  in 
shallow  drills,  each  kind  by  itself,  and  that  an  account  be 
kept  ofthe  contents  of  each  drill  in  a  book  ;  also  of  all  seeds 
that  are  sown  at  different  times,  and  by  being  particular  in 
the  dates,  you  may  always  know  when  to  expect  your  plants 
to  come  up.  Those  persons  who  may  be  totally  unac- 
quainted with  plants,  will,  by  this  means,  be  enabled  to 


ANNUAL  FLOWER  SEEDS,  US 

identify  each  particular  kind,  and  thus  become  familiarly 
acquainted  with  them.*  In  order  that  this  may  be  rendered 
plain  to  my  readers,  I  adopt  the  following  plan  of  entry  of 
six  kinds  sown  in  pots,  and  six  in  the  open  ground : 

April  20,  sowed  flower  seeds  in  pots. 

Pot  marked  A,  or  1,  Ainaranthus  tricolor. 

B,  or  2  Balsamines1 

C,  or  3,  Cockscomb. 

D,  or  4,  Egg  pi  int. 

E,  or  5,  Ice  plant. 

F,  or  6,  Mignonette. 

These  pots  may  be  either  marked   with  letters,  or  figures 
on  the   outside,  to  answer  with  the  book,  or  notches  may  be 
cut  in  wood,  or  other  labels  affixed  to  the  pots,  and  entered 
accordingly. 
April  30,  sowed  flower  seeds  in  drills,  as  under 

No;  1,  Bladder  Ketmia 

2,  Coreopsis  Tinctoria. 

3,  Yellow  eternal  flower. 

4,  Globe  amarauthus. 

5,  Princes'  feather. 

6,  Larkspur,  branching. 

If  these  numbers  be  continued  to  100,  or  even  1000,  there 
can  be  no  mistake,  provided  the  rows  are  all  marked  accord- 


*  Lest  the  reader  should  contend  that  the  author  is  hereby  shifting 
his  own  duty  and  responsibility  on  the  cultivator,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
observe  that  a  definition  of  all  the  peculiar  qualities,  forms,  attitudes 
and  habits  of  growth,  of  the  numerous  species  and  varieties  of  plants, 
embraced  in  an  extensive  catalogue,  with  minute  directions  for  the 
most  appropriate  culture  of  each,  would  alone  occupy  more  space 
than  is  allotted  for  this  treatise,  and  that  to  expatiate  on  all  the  various 
features  of  the  floral  kingdom,  i*.a  task  which  no  author  has  ever 
attempted;  nor  can  an »'  librar v  be  found  containing  such  a  desideratum.' 
The  cultivator  of  a  small  garden  may,  however,  by  means  of  a  memo- 
randum book,  describe  the  peculiarities  of  such  plants  os  come  under 
his  special  care,  as  upright,  procumbent,  trailing,  climbing,  bushy, 
slender  stalked,  herbaceous,  shrubby,  &c.,  and  thus  learn  how  to 
rultivate  and  arrange  the  same,  or  similar  plants,  advantageously  in 
succeeding  years:  and  it  must  be  admitted  that  a  few  flowers  selected, 
so  as  to  harmonize  in  their  colours  and  habits  of  growth,  cultivated 
with  precision,  as  respects  soil  and  situation  congenial  to  them,  and 
trained  and  pruned  into  regular  and  compact  shapes,  will  yield  more 
pleasure  and  amusement,than  three  times  the  number  taken  promiscuous- 
ly and  cultivated  under  one  uniform  treatment,  as  is  the  general,  though 
not  most  judicious  practice. 


144  ANNUAL    FLOWER    SEEDS. 

ing  to  the  entry  in  the  book ;  or  if  No.  1  be  noted,  plain 
sticks  will  answer  afterwards,  if  one  be  stuck  at  each  end 
of  every  row.  In  this  case  it  would  be  well  to  leave  a  space 
every  ten  or  twenty  rows,  and  to  note  the  number  of  the 
rows  ;  by  this  means,  they  can  be  more  easily  traced. 

Some  species  of  dwarf  Annuals,  such  as  the  sweet 
Alyssum,  Candytuft,  Clarkia  Pulchella,  Mignonette,  Pim- 
pernell,  and  such  others  as  grow  not  over  a  foot  in  height, 
may  be  cultivated  in  small  beds,  either  separate  or  two  or 
three  kinds  mixed  together.  Clarkia  pulchella  suits  very 
well  with  Mignonette,  as  it  will  thrive  in  moderately  poor 
soil,  which  is  the  best  adapted  for  that  plant  when  fragrance 
is  an  object.  The  reason  that  some  Mignonette  has 
scarcely  any  scent,  is,  because  the  soil  in  which  it  is  culti- 
vated is  too  rich  ;  and  this  leads  me  to  remark  farther,  that 
what  som.9  call  Tree  Mignonette,  and  admire  on  account  of 
its  fragrance,  is  the  same  variety  as  the  ordinary  kind, 
cultivated  as  a  perennial  plant.  It  may  be  propagated  by 
cuttings,  and  trained  so  as  to  form  a  tree  ;  which  being 
transplanted  into  poor  ground,  will  yield  more  fragranee 
than  when  grown  as  an  annual  in  a  rich  compost  or  soil. 

The  best  way  to  manage  the  mixed  species,  is  to  level 
down  a  narrow  border  of  rather  poor  soil,  and  sow  it  all 
over  with  Mignonette,  then  with  Clarkia  pulchella ;  when 
the  plants  are  up,  both  kinds  should  be  thinned  out  equally, 
so  as  to  leave  the  plants  from  one  to  two  inches  apart  all 
over  the  bed  ;  these  when  they  come  into  blossom  will  form 
a  rich  mass,  and  have  a  very  pretty  effect,  the  bushiness  of 
the  Mignonette  hiding  the  naked  stalks  of  the  Clarkia. 
The  White  Alyssum  and  Purple  Candytuft,  form  a  pleasing 
contrast  when  mixed  in  equal  proportions,  and  also  the 
Dwarf  Scarlet  and  blue  Pimpernell. 

The  new  species  of  Dwarf  annual  Phlox,  Phlox  Drum- 
mondii,  are  described  in  a  London  Magazine  as  a  splendid 
sight  when  cultivated  in  patches.  "Every  flower,  though  of 
the  deepest  carmine,  has  its  petals  of  a  pale  blush  colour  on 
the  under  side,  and  every  petal  though  of  the  palest  pink, 
has  a  dark  carmine  spot  at  its  base.  Thus  the  variety  of 


ANNUAL  FLOWER  SEEDS.  145 

•Colours  displayed  in  a  bed  of  these  flowers,  almost  exceeds 
description,  and  when  they  are  seen  under  a  bright  sun, 
and  agitated  by  a  gentle  breeze,  the  effect  is  extraordinarily 
brilliant." 

When  seeds  are  intended  to  be  sown  in  patches,  which 
is  often  done  for  want  of  an  unoccupied  border,  the  best 
way  to  perform  this  business  is,  after  having  pulverized 
the  soil,  to  impress  circular  drills  in  the  surface  with  the 
rim  of  a  flower  pot,  which  may  be  large  or  small,  according 
to  fancy.  By  sowing  seeds  in  such  circular  drills,  the  plants 
can  be  more  easily  traced  than  when  scattered  promiscuously 
over  the  ground,  and  the  weeds  can  be  destroyed  with  less 
risk  and  trouble.  Such  kinds  as  are  marked  in  the  cata- 
logue* may  remain  as  sown,  or  if  parted,  they  should  be 
removed  with  a  scoop  trowel  in  a  careful  manner,  in  small 
tufts,  and  this  business,  as  well  as  transplanting  in  general, 
should  be  always  done  immediately  preceding,  or  after  rain, 
and  in  cloudy  weather. 

Herbaceous  plants  in  general  will  not  flower  well,  if  grown 
in  clusters ;  they  should,  therefore,  be  thinned  or  trans- 
planted into  the  regular  beds,  at  all  favourable  opportuni- 
ties, after  they  get  about  an  inch  in  length  ;  and  as  there  is 
always  a  risk  of  some  plants  not  taking  root,  it  is  safest  to 
plant  a  few  of  each  sort  every  time,  taking  care  to  diversify 
the  colours,  and  also  to  leave  a  few  plants  in  the  seed  beds, 
for  the  purpose  of  substituting  in  the  room  of  such  plants 
whose  period  of  flowering  may  be  over ;  as  is  the  case  gene- 
rally with  early  Perennial  plants  and  bulbs,  at  about  th« 
season  the  last  of  the  Annuals  are  fit  to  remove. 

The  transplanting  may  be  done  with  a  small  trowel,  or  a 
neat  dibble  made  for  the  purpose. 


13 


146 
PRELIMINARY  OBSERVATIONS 

TO    THE    CATALOGUE    OP 

BIENNIAL  S?  PERENNIAL  FLOWER  SEEDS, 

The  remarks  preceding  our  Catalogue  of  Annuals,  will 
With  few  exceptions,  apply  to  that  of  Biennials  and  Peren- 
nials ;  and  it  may  be  observed  further,  that  the  circulation  of 
the  sap  in  roots  and  stalks  of  plants,  is  influenced  by  like 
causes,  and  subject  to  the  same  vicissitudes  as  the  germin- 
ation of  seed,  which  principle  is  exemplified  by  some  plants 
of  various  species  putting  forth  their  leaves  and  flowers  at  a 
later  period  than  others  in  the  same  location,  as  if  waiting 
for  nature  to  replenish  the  earth  with  food  adapted  to  their 
respective  requirements  ;  which  by  the  gradual  changes 
from  cool  to  temperate,  and  from  that  to  warm  weather, 
is  effected  to  that  degree  as  to  enable  all  the  various  species 
of  plants,  collected  from  every  climate  and  soil  under  the 
Sun,  to  reward  the  industrious  cultivator,  by  a  gradual  exhi- 
bition of  their  fascinating  blossoms,  and  a  distribution  of  their 
odoriferous  sweets,  throughout  the  three  propitious  seasons 
of  the  year,  i.e.  Spring,  Summer  and  Autumn. 

In  designating  Biennials  from  the  Perennials,  I  have  only 
marked  such  as  are  apt  to  die  after  once  blossoming,  and 
which  can  only  be  renewed  from  seed.  Some  of  those  spe- 
cies, frequently  classed  with  Biennials,  as  Aquilcgia  or 
Columbines,  Diantkus,  &c.  are  in  reality  Perennial,  and 
may  be  easily  perpetuated  from  year  to  year,  by  suckers, 
layers,  or  any  of  the  ordinary  methods  of  propagation  ;  and 
here  I  would  observe,  that  frequent  renewal  of  the  roots  of 
Perennials,  is  absolutely  necessary  to  their  prosperity  or  very 
existence  ;  and  also  that  many  species,  are  by  nature  best 
adapted  for  propagation  at  the  footstalks,  from  their  yielding 
little  or  no  seed  at  the  top  of  the  plant.  This  is  particularly 
the  case  with  choice  double-flowering  plants,  the  roots  of 
which,  in  many  cases,  constitute  the  seed ;  these  conse' 
quently  must  be  perpetuated  by  root  offsets,  cuttings,  &c. 


BIENNIAL    AND  JPERENNIAL    FLOWEPS.  147 

The  annexed  Catalogue  embraces  a  great  proportion  'of 
the  most  desirable  of  what  are  termed  fibrous-rooted  herba- 
ceous plants  ;  the  seed  or  roots  of  which  mny  be  obtained  at 
Seed  Stores  and  Nurseries,  The  estimated  height  applies 
to  plants  of  a  year's  growth  ;  some  will  arrive  to  more  than 
three  times  that  height  when  cultivated  in  a  greenhouse,  and 
even  in  open  ground  culture  the  same  plants  will  vary  con- 
siderably, according  to  the  soil  or  situation  in  which  they 
are  grown  ;  the  specified  height  however,  although  una- 
voidably imperfect,  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  gardener  in 
arranging  his  flower  beds.  Those  marked  thus,f  being  ten- 
der, and  half  hardy  will  need  protection  in  the  Winter:  those 
marked  thus,  ||  are  Biennial  :  those  marked  thus,  *  yield 
little  or  no  seed.  There  are  also  many  other  species  of  which 
the  seed  is  unattainable,  from  its  being  suffered  to  scatter  by 
the  wind,  and  in  some  cases,  from  the  climate  being  unfavour- 
able to  its  ripening ;  these,  as  will  be  shown  hereafter,  may 
be  perpetuated  by  other  methods. 


A  CATALOGUE    OF 

BIENNIAL   AND   PERENNIAL   FLOWER   SEEDS. 

Graines  de  fleurs  bisannuettes  et  vivaces. 

t  Denotes  tender.       ||   Biennial.      *  Seed  unattainable.  HEIGHT 

IN  FEET 

Adonis,  Spring-flowering,  yellow      Adonis  vernalis  2  to  3 

Alpine  Columbine,  purple                Aquilegia  alpina  1  to  2 

Alyssum,  yellow                                 Alyssum  saxatile  1 

Asclepias,  orange,  purple,  &c.         Asclepias  incamata,  etc.  2  to  3 

Asiatic  Globe  flower,  yellow             Trollius  Asiaticus  3  to  4 

tAuricula,  variegated                          Primula  auricula  under  1 

tBalm  of  Gilead,  fragrant                  Dracocephalum  canariense  1 

Bee  Larkspur,  blue  and  brown        Delphinium  datum  4  to  6 
Bergamot,  crimson,  blue                   Monarda  Kalmiana,  didyma    2  to  3 

*tCanary  Aster,  purple                      Cineraria  amelloides  1 

iCalceolaria,  various  colours             Calceolaria  variabilis  2  to  3 

Campanula  Peren.,  blue,  white,  &c.  Campanula persicafoHa,  etc.  2  to  3 

{(Canterbury  Bells,  blue,  white          Campanula  medium  2  to  3 

tCaper  tree,  green                             Euphorbia  lathyrus  2  to  3 

Cardinal  flower,  scarlet                     Lobelia  cardinalis  3  to  4 


148  BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL    FLOWERS. 

t  Denotes  tender.       ||  Biennial.      *  SeeJ  unattainable,  HKIGHT 

IN  FEET 

Cassia  Maryland,  yellow  Cassia  Marylandica                  3  to  4 

t  Carnation  Pink,  various  colours  Dianthus  caryophyllus               1  to  2 

*tCelcia,  red  &  yellow,  variegated  Cclcia  orie.ntalis                         1  to  2 

Chinese  Imperial  Pink,  various  Dianthus  Chwensis                   1  to  2 

t  Chinese  Primrose,  lilac,  white  Primula  Chine  nsis        under          1 

Clove  Imperial  Pink,  crimson  Dianthus  hortensis                      I  to  2 

tColuteayscarlet  Sutherlandiafrutescens              2  to  3 

*Coreopsis,  Perennial,  in  varieties,  Calliopsisgrandiflora,  lanceola- 

yellow  turn,  auriculata,  etc.               2  to  3 

*tCoronilla,  yellow  Coronilla  glauca                        2  to  3 

*Coronet,  or  doubleLychnis,scarlet  Lychnis  coronata  2  to  3 

||  Clary,  purple  topped  Salvia  sclara                                I  to  2 

Columbine,  various  colours  Aquilegia  vulgaris                     1  to  2 

-*t Daisy  Garden,  various  colours  Bcllis,percnnis,hortensis,under        1 

Dragon's  head,  bluish  pink  JJracocephalum  Firginianum    3  to  A 

Dragon's  head,  purple  and  striped  Dracoccphalum  argumense,  etc.  1  to,  2 

European  Globe  Flower,  yellow  Trollius  Europceus                     2  to  3 

H Evening  Primrose,  yellow  (Enotheralicnnis                        3  to  4 

Eupatorium,  blue,  white  Eupatorium  cerulea,  etc.            2  to  3 

IJ'Foxglove,  purple,  white  Digitalis  purpurea,  alba           3  to,  4 

Fraxinella,  red,  white  Dictamnus  rulra,  alia               1  to  2 

Gentian,  purple,  yellow,  white  Gentiana  purpurea,  lutea,  etc.          1 

Gentian,  porcelain  flowered  Gen  iana  adscendens                  2  to  3 

tGeranium,  various  colours  Pelargonium  zonalc                    2  to,  3 

Globe  Thistle,  purple  Echinops  spharoccphalus           2  to  3 

tHepatica,  blue,  pink  Anemone  hepatica             under         1 

Hibiscus,  pink,  while,  purple  Hibiscus  palustris,spcciosus,etc  3  to  4 

Hollyhock  Antwerp,    China  and  Althea  flora  Chinensis, 

English,  of  various  colours  Anglica,  etc.                            4  to  5 

g Honesty,  or  Satin  flower,  blush  Lunaria  biennis                          2  to  3 

tlndian  Shot,  yellow,  scarlet  Canna  Jndica,  lutea,  coccmea           2 

Ivy -leaved  Toad  Flax,  pink  Lunaria.  cymbalaria                    1  to  2 

Jacob's  Ladder,  blue  Polcmonium  ceruleum                1  to  2 

tJcrusalem  Cherry,  red  fruit  Solanum  pseudo,  capsicum        2  to  3 

Larkspur,  Perennial,  purple,  pink,  Delphinium  grandifloruHa. 

white,  &c.  perenn  s                                  2  to,  3 

*Liatris,  long  spiked,  purple  Liatris  spicata .  elegans,  etc.       3  to  4 

*Lily  of  the  Valley,  white  Convalleriamajalis                            1 

iLupin,    Perennial,    blue,    white,  Lupinus  perennis,  mutabilis, 

changeable,  &c.  variabilis,  etc.                         2  to  3 

Lychnidea,  or  American  Phlox,  Phlox  paniculata    accuminata 

lilac,  purple,  red,  white,  &c.  pyramidalis  odorata,  etc.       3  to  4 

*Lychnidea,  early,  pink,  &c.  Phlox  subulate,  stolonfcra  etc.   1  fa  2. 


BIENNIAL  AND   PERENNIAL    FLOWERS. 

f  Denotet  tender.       ||  Biennial.      *  Seed  unattainable.  HEIGHT 

IN  FEET 

"Lychnis  Mountain,  variegated       Lychnis  Alpina  1  to  2 

Lychnis  Scarlet  Lychnis  Chalcedonica  3  to  4 

London  Pride,  variegated  Dianthus  dclloides 

tMesembryanthemum,   variegated,  Mesembryanthemum   acinaci- 

yellow ,  white,  purple,  &c.  formt,  spectabUe,  tricolor,  etc,  1  to  2 

tMexican  Sage,  scarlet  Salria-  Splendens  2  to  3 

Monkshood,  white,  blue,  &c.  Aconitum  album,  versi'olorftc.  4  to  6 

Monkey  flower,  yellow,  purple  spotsMimulus  ringens,  luteus,  etc.     1  to  2 
tOleander,  pink,  white  Nerium,  Oleander  2  to  3 

*Pardanthus,  Chinese,  orange          Pardanthus,  Chinen&is 
Pentstemon,  purple  Pentstemon,  campanulata  2  to  3 

Perennial  Flax,  purple  Linum,  pcrennis  2  to  3 

tPeriwinkle, Madagascar,  rose,white  Vinca  rosea,  alba  1(02 

Pink,  Pheasant-eyed,  variegated       Dianth'S  plumarius       under 
tPolyanthus,  variable  and  splendid  Primula  polyanthus        under 
Poppy,  Perennial,  red,  yellow          Papaver  orientate,  bracteata    2  to  3 
Potentilla,  rose,  puce,  yellow  Polenlilla  formosa,  splendens  1  to  2 

t||  Pyramidal  Bell  flower,  blue  Campanula  pyromidalis  3  to  4 

*Q,ueen  of  the  Meadows,white,  roseSpircea  ulmaria,  lobata,  etc.      3  to  4 
*Ragged  Robin,  or  Red  Lichnis      ^^rosttmmafos  cucula  1  to  2 

Rocket  Garden,  purple  H^peris  matrvnalis  2  to  3 

f|Rose  Campion,  or  Mullen  Pink,   Agroslemma  coronarea, 

rose,  white,  &c.  rosea.  alba,  etc.  2  to  3 

Rudbeckia,  yellow,  purple  Rudbeckia,  lulea  purpurea      3  to  4 

Saphonaria,  rose  blush  Saphonaria  qfficinalis,  etc. »      1  to  2 

*Saxifrage,  rose,  white,  purple         Saxifraga  umbrosa,crassifoliaj. 
||Snapdragon,white,  red,  variega.ied,^ntirrhinum  bicolor,  versicolor 

in  several  splendid  varieties  coccinea,  spartium,  etc.          1  to  2 

Sophora,  white,  blue,  &c.  •  Sophora  alba,  autralis  2  to  3 

t||Stock  Gilliflower,  numerous  vane-Mathiolairtcanuscoccinea^alba, 

ties,  scarlet,white,  purple,  striped     purpurea,  striata,  etc.  1  to  2 

*Sunflower,  yellow  Heliunthus  ptrennis.altisshnusS  to  4 

II Sweet  Scabious,  purple,  brown      Scabiosa  alro  purpurea,  etc.     Q  to  3 
Sweet  William,  various  colours        Dianthus  barbatus  1  to  2 

'Thrift,  pink  and  red  Stalice  vnfgaris,  speciosat     under  1 

Valerian,  Garden,  red,  white  Valeriana  rubra,  alba  2  to  3 

Valerian,  Sweet-scented,  blue  Polemonium  ceruka  3  to  4 

Veronica,  variegated,  blue  Veronica  variegata,  cerulea      2  to  3 

•Violet,  Fragrant,  white,  blue,  &c.  Viola  otiorata.  alba,  cerulea,  under  1 
t|| Wallflower,  bloody,  yellow  Cheiranthus  cheiri  \  (0  2 

*t  Wallflower,  double  perennial       Cheiranthus  per ennis  1  to  2 

tHWall-leavexl ;  Stock  Gilliflower     Cheiranthus  glaber  1  to  2 

*Windflower,  various  colours          Anemone  coronaria  1  to  2 

13* 


150  BIENNIAL  AND  PERENNIAL  FLOWERS*. 

t  Denotes  tender.       ||  Biennial.      *  Seed  unattainable.  HEIGHT 

IN  FEET 

Yucca,  or  Adam's  Needle,  white      Yucca  strict  a,  gloriosa,  etc.       3  to  4 
CLIMBING  PLANTS. 

For  other  lists  of  Climbing  Plants,  see  Catalogue  of  Flowering  and 
Ornamental  Shrubs,  also  the  Catalogue  of  Annuals. 

Calampelis,  orange  Eccremocarpus  scabra  over  6 

tClimbing  Cobea,  dark  purple  Cobea  scandens  over  20 

Everlasting  Peas,  pink,  Lathyrus  lalifolius,    roseat  over  10 

I) French  Honeysuckle,  white,  red  Hedysarum  coronarium,  etc.     over  6 

tPassion  Flower,  various  colours  Passiflora  incarnata,  etc.        over  20 


The  reader  is  here  reminded  that  our  catalogue  of 
Annual  flower  seeds,  contains  a  few  varieties  of  Perennials, 
which  were  there  introduced  because  of  their  aptness  to 
blossom  in  the  first  season  from  the  sowing  of  seeds  ;  these 
with  those  marked  |  in  the  last  catalogue,  may  be  sown 
and  treated  in  the  manner  recommended  for  the  tender 
Annuals.  Those  intended  to  be  cultivated  as  greenhouse 
plants,  should  be  taken  up  before  the  approach  of  cold 
weather,  transplanted  into  flower  pots,  and  sheltered  either 
in  a  garden  frame,  greenhouse,  or  light  room.  Those 
plants  with  tuberous  roots,  such  as  Dahlias,  Marvel  of  Peru, 
and  also  some  others  of  the  Bean  and  Pea  tribe,  may  be 
cut  down  late  in  the  Autumn  ;  the  roots  may  be  then  taken 
up  and  preserved  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  other 
tuberous  and  bulbous-rooted  plants,  of  which  I  shnll  treat 
hereafter. 

Hardy  Biennial  and  Perennial  flower  seeds  may  be  sown 
in  the  month  of  April,  in  shallow  drills.  If  this  business  be 
performed  in  the  manner  recommended  for  Annuals,  they 
can  be  easily  distinguished  from  each  other  ;  and  as  these 
plants  do  not  flower  the  first  year,  they  may  be  thinned  out, 
or  removed  from  the  seed  beds  as  soon  as  they  are  well 
rooted,  and  planted  either  into  different  parts  of  the  flower 
beds,  or  in  a  nursery  bed.  Ifthe  latter  plan  be  adopted, 


BIENNIAL    A3JD    PERENNIAL    FLOWERS.  l§f 

they  should  be  planted  in  rows  a  foot  or  more  apart,  and 
kept  free  from  weeds  by  means  of  a  small  hoe,  which  will 
greatly  promote  their  growth,  and  prepare  them  for  trans- 
planting into  the  regular  and  permanent  blossoming  beds, 
either  in  the  Autumn  or  early  in  the  ensuing  Spring. 

It  may  be  here  observed  that  Biennials  seldom  servive  the 
second  Winter  to  flower  in  perfection,  unless  they  are  renewed 
by  cuttings  of  top  shoots,  young  flower  stalks,  or  casual  offsets, 
layers,  &c.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to  take  this  trouble, 
unless  it  be  with  any  extraordinary  double-flowering  plants. 
Some  of  the  Perennials  may  be  increased  by  root  offsets 
detached  from  the  old  plants,  and  planted  in  Spring  or 
Autumn  ;  others  by  bottom  suckers  and  slips  of  top  shoots, 
layers,  pipings  of  young  shoots,  <fcc.  Pinks,  Sweet  Williams 
Pansies  and  double  Violets,  also  Periwinkle,  or  running 
Myrtle,  and  many  other  similar  plants,  may  be  increased 
by  simply  laying  their  branches  an  inch  or  two  under  the 
surface  in  July  and  August..  After  roots  have  formed, 
which  may  be  expected  in  six  or  eight  weeks,  each  tuft  or 
plant  may  be  transplanted  into  the  borders. 

Many  sorts  of  Biennial  and  Perennial  flower  seeds  may 
be  sown  in  September,  or  as  soon  as  ripe ;  and  if  the 
plants  get  strong  Lefore  the  setting  in  of  Winter,  some  of 
them  will  flower  the  Summer  next  ensuing.  The  following 
are  amongst  the  hardiest : 

Adonis,  Spring  -flowering.  Lychnis,  in  varieties 

Alpine  Columbine.  Larkspur,  perennial. 

Alyssmn.  yellow.  Rose  Campion,  in  varieties. 

Bee,  larkspur.  Rocket  in  varieties. 

Columbine,  in  varieties.  Scabious,  in  varieties 

Evening  Primrose.  Valerian,  Garden. 

Fox-glove,  in  varieties.  Veronica. 

Fraxinella.  Everlasting  Peas.  ?    ,.    ,  . 

Hollyhock,  in  varieties.  Virgin's  Bower.    $cl1 

It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  reader  of  those 
species  of  beautiful  double-flowering  Perennial  herba- 
ceous plants,  which  do  not  produce  seed  ;  some  of  these 
are  included  in  our  Catalogue,  they  may  be  obtained  at  the 
nurseries,  and  should  be  introduced  into  the  regular  flower 


152  BIENNIAL    AND    PERENNIAL   PLANTS. 

beds,  either  in  Autumn  or  early  in  the  Spring ;  the  mod*  of 
increasing  such,  is  by  layers,  cuttings,  offsets,  &c.  detach- 
ed from  the  old  plants. 

As  the  earth  within  the  flower  beds  will  need  to  be 
fresh  dug  and  replenished  with  good  compost  or  manure, 
(once  in  two  or  three  years,  it  may  he  necessary  to  take  up 
all  tha  Perennial  plants  at  such  times.  Such  roots  as  may 
be  overgrown,  should  be  deprived  of  their  surplus  offsets, 
and  may  be  either  planted  in  a  nursery  bed,  or  returned 
with  ihe  parent  plants  into  the  regular  flower  beds  ;  they 
should  be  inserted  a  little  deeper  than  before,  and  the  fine 
fresh  earth  distributed  well  about  the  fibres. 

In  removing  plants  into  the  beds  where  they  are  intended 
to  blossom,  great  pains  should  be  taken  to  preserve  some  of 
the  earth  to  their  roots.  The  ground  should  be  previously 
brought  into  good  condition,  so  that  they  may  strike  freely, 
and  produce  their  flowers  in  perfection.  The  plants  should 
be  so  arranged  that  they  may  all  be  seen,  the  most  dwarfy 
may  be  placed  in  front,  and  others  in  a  regular  gradation  to 
the  tallest  behind  ;  or  the  tallest  may  be  planted  along  the 
middle  of  the  beds,  and  the  others  on  each  side  according 
to  their  varied  heights  and  colours. 

There  is  no  part  of  gardening  which  requires  so  much 
elegance  of  taste  and  fancy,  as  in  setting  off  a  border  or  bed 
of  intermixed  flowers  to  advantage.  In  assemblage  with 
other  flowers,  the  different  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs  may  be 
planted  in  small  clumps  of  six,  seven,  or  eight  inches  in 
diameter,  three,  four,  five  or  more  roots  in  each,  according 
to  their  size  and  growth,  and  these  at  suitable  distances 
from  one  another.  Likewise  observe  to  diversify  the  kinds 
and  colours,  so  as  to  display  when  in  bloom,  the  greatest 
possible  variety  of  shades  and  contrasts. 

If  Greenhouse  plants  be  plunged  ii}to  the  flower  borders 
in  the  month  of  May,  they  will  not  only  tend  to  ornament 
the  garden,  by  their  diversity  of  foliage  and  blossom,  but  the 
roots  will  receive  a  more  uniform  supply  of  moisture,  than 
if  the  pots  were  openly  exposed  to  the  sun  and  wind :  care 


BIENNIAL  AND  PERENNIAL  PLANTS.  153 

should  however  be  taken  to  give  the  different  species  a  situa- 
tion suitable  for  them.*  Hydrangeas,  Primulas,  Daisies, 
Oleanders,  Cammelias,  China  Roses,  and  half  hardy  plants 
in  general,  thrive  best  in  a  moderately  shaded  situation. 
Geraniums,  Jasmines,  Helotropes  &c.,  may  be  plunged  in  a 
sunny  situation,  provided  they  be  regularly  supplied  with 
water.  Many  species  planted  for  ornament  in  the  flower 

*  In  some  countries,  the  wealthy  have  changeable  flower  gardens; 
the  principal  of  which  consists  in  the  power  of  changing  its  production 
at  pleasure,  so  that  whenever  any  plant  or  group  of  plants,  begin  to 
decay,  they  can  be  removed,  and  their  places  supplied  by  others  coming 
into  bloom.  To  admit  this,  a  large" reserve-nursery  is  requisite,  in  which 
the  plants  must  be  kept  in  pots  and  removed  and  plunged  in  the  borders 
as  wanted.  Sir  W.  Chambers  informs  us  that  the  Chinese  excel  in  this 
mode  of  gardening  ;  and  that  he  has  known  a  mand  »rin  (or  noble )  have 
the  who'u  furniture  and  style  of  his  parterre  changed  in  a  single  night, 
so  as  next  morning  to  present  not  only  a  different  description  of  flowers, 
shrubs,  and  dwarf  trees,  but  a  different  arrangement  of  the  beds  and 
compartments.  Something  of  the  ^ame  kind  is  practised  in  the  gardens 
of  the  Tuilleries,  in  Paris ;  m  some  of  the  imperial  gardens  at  Petersburg, 
and  in  the  vice-royal  gardens  at  Monza  Gardens  of  this  description 
admit  of  a  very  perfect  arrangement  of  the  flowers,  whether  in  the 
mingled  manner,  in  select  groups,  or  according  to  the  natural  method. 
It  is  only  with  such  resources  that  a  flower-gardener  can  "  paint  his 
way,"  as  Sir  W.  Chambers  says  the  Chinese  artists  do,  "not  scattering 
their  flowers  indiscriminately  about  their  borders,  but  disposing  of  them 
with  great  circumspection  along  the  skirts  of  the  plantations,  or  other 
places  where  flowers  are  to  be  introduced.  They  reject  all  that  are  of  a 
straggling  growth  of  harsh  colors  and  poor  foliage,  choosing  only  such 
as  are  of  some  duration,  grow  either  large  or  in  clusters,  are  of  beautiful 
forms,  well  leaved,  and  of  tints  that  harmonize  with  the  greens  that  sur- 
round them  They  avoid  all  sudden  transitions,  both  with  regard  to 
dimension  and  colour,  rising  gradually  from  the  smallest  flowers  to  those 
of  the  boldest  growth;  and  varying  their  tints,  by  easy  gradations,  from 
white,  straw-colour,  purple,  and  incarnate,  to  the  deepest  blue?,  and  most 
brilliant  crimsons  and  scarlets.  They  frequently  blend  several  roots 
together,  whose  leaves  and  flowers  unite,  and  compos*3  one  rich  harmo- 
nious mass  ;  such  as  the  white  and  purple  candytuft,  larkspurs,  and 
mallows  of  various  colours,  double  poppies  lupins,  primroses,  pinks,  and 
carnations  :  with  many  more  of  which  the  forms  and'colours  accord  with 
each  other  ;  and  the  same  method  they  use  with  flowering  shrubs,  blend- 
ing white,  red,  and  variegated  roses  together,  purple  and  white  lilacs, 
yellow  and  white  jasmines,  altheas  of  various  sorts,  and  as  many  others 
as  they  can  with  any  propriety  unite.  By  these  mixtures  they  increase 
considerably  the  variety  and  beauty  of  their  compartments.  In  their 
large  plantations,  the  flowers  generally  grow  in  the  natural  ground;  but 
in  flower-gardens,  and  all  other  parts  that  are  highly  kept,  they  are  in. 
pots  buried  in  the  ground,  which,  as  fast  as  the  bloom  goes  off.  are 
removed  and  others  are  brought  to  supply  their  places ;  so  that  there  is 
a  constant  succession  for  almost  every  mouth  in  the  year ;  and  the 
flowers  are  never  seen  but  in  the  height  of  their  beauty." — London's 
Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening, 


154  BIENIS'IAL    AND  PERENNIAL  PLANTS. 

borders,  may  at  the  same  time  be  propagated  by  layers. 
The  Fuchsia,  or  Ear-drop,  Passion  Flower,  Helotrope, 
Carnation,  Petunia,  running  Verbena,  &c.,  will  iflayed  in 
June  and  July,  exhibit  their  blossoms  in  perfection,  and 
yield  young  plants  fit  to  transplant  into  flower  pots  in  Sep- 
tember and  October. 

It  may  be  observed  further  that  established  plants  will 
always  produce  their  blossoms  earlier  and  stronger  in  the 
Spring,  than  those  recently  transplanted  ;  it  should,  there- 
fore, be  an  object  with  gardeners  to  do  the  business  of 
forming  permanent  flower  beds,  and  of  transplanting  hardy 
Perennial  and  Biennial  plants  in  September  or  October, 

The  hardy  bulbous  roots  must  be  also  planted  in  October 
or  November,  which  on  being  properly  preserved  through 
the  Winter  will  embellish  the  parterre  in  Spring  by  their 
early  and  FIRS  r  FLOWERS. 

"First  flowers  of  the  Springtime, 

Bright  gems  of  the  year, 
AH  love  y  and  blooming, 

How  fresh  ye  appear ; 
Springing  up  in  the  garden, 

The  hedge  row  and  vale, 
Enriched  by  the  showers, 

And  fann  d  by  the  gale." 

In  my  preliminary  observations,  I  directed  the  attention 
of  my  readers  to  some  important  points  respecting  walks, 
edgings,  &c. — Although  box  is  superior  to  any  thing  else 
for  edgings ;  yet  in  extensive  gardens,  dwarf  plants  of 
various  kinds  may  be  used  for  such  purpose.  Thrift  is  the 
neatest  small  evergreen  next  to  box ;  but  Violets,  Pinks, 
Periwinkle, Pansey,  Iris,  Stone  crop,  or  even  Parsley ,Thyme, 
Strawberry  plants,  &c.  may  be  used  for  the  sake  of  diversity. 
These  will  require  frequent  watering  and  trimming,  and  the 
Thrift,  &c.  should  be  sometimes  taken  up,  divided  at  the 
roots  and  replanted. 

Box  edgings  will  also  require  frequent  pruning  and  trim- 
ming ;  and  once  in  from  seven  to  ten  years  the  whole  may 


^LOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS.  155 

be  taken  up,  divided  and  replanted,  and  the  surplus  slips 
may  be  planted  in  a  nursery  bed  in  rows  about  a  foot  apart; 
these  will  be  suitable  for  making  edgings  the  year  following. 
Flower  beds  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  watered 
occasionally  in  the  Summer.  In  the  Autumn  they  should 
be  covered  with  leaves,  straw  or  light  litter ;  this  should  be 
taken  off  in  the  Spring,  and  the  ground  should  be  hoed  and 
dressed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  enliven  the  earth  around 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  as  also  to  give  the  whole  a  neat 
appearance. 


FLOWERING    AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 

Arbrisseaux  d/Ornement. 

SHRUBS  are  so  closely  connected  with  flowering  plants, 
and  indeed  so  many  of  them  are  embellished  with  flowers, 
that  they  may  be  considered  as  essential  to  the  completion 
of  an  ornamental  garden.  They  are  all  Perennial,  and  are 
divided  into  two  classes,  deciduous  and  evergreen  ;  the  for- 
mer lose  their  leaves  in  the  Winter,  the  latter  only  shed 
them  when  others  are  ready  to  supply  their  places. 

Shrubs  are  not  only  necessary  to  the  embellishment  of  a 
flower  garden,  but  many  kinds  are  eligible  for  hedges  to  it. 
and  may  be  planted  at  a  trifling  expense.  These  hedges 
should  be  frequently  trimmed  and  trained,  the  sides  cut.even 
and  the  tops  sparingly  clipped,  so  as  to  make  them  ornamen- 
tal, as  well  as  useful,  and  also  to  increase  the  vigour  of  their 
growth.  When  hedges  become  open  or  naked  at  the 
bottom,  they  should  be  plashed  down  ;  this  is  done  by 
cutting  the  branches  half  through  near  the  ground;  they 
will  then  bend  easily,  and  may  be  interwoven  with  the 
adjoining  branches. 

When  shrubs,  creepers,  or  climbers,  are  planted  against 
walls  or  trellises,  either  on  account  of  their  rarity,  delicacy, 
or  to  conceal  a  rough  fence,  or  other  unsightly  object,  they 
require  different  modes  of  training  ;  some  attach  themselves 


]o6  FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 

naturally,  as  the  ivy,  and  merely  require  to  be  occasionally 
guided,  so  as  to  cause  a  regular  distribution  of  their  shoots  ; 
others  must  be  treated  like  fruit  trees,  trained  thinly,  if 
blossoms  are  the  object,  and  rather  thicker,  if  the  intention 
be  to  show  the  foliage  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage. 

Ornamental  shrubs  grow  from  one  foot  to  twelve  or  more 
in  height;  and  where  such  are  planted  for  ornament,  the 
height  of  each  plant,  when  full  grown,  should  be  considered, 
and  also  the  mode  of  growth,  that  every  one  may  be  so 
planted  as  to  show  to  advantage,  observing  that  the  tall- 
growing  should  be  planted  in  the  back  part  of  the  borders, 
and  those  of  low-growth  forward  ;  but  if  they  are/equired  to 
be  planted  in  clumps,  they  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  rise 
gradually  from  the  sides  to  the  middle,  and  be  afterwards 
neatly  trimmed. 

Shrubs  require  an  annual  pruning,  at  which  time  cut  out 
all  irregular  and  superfluous  branches,  and  head  down  such 
as  require  it,  forming  them  into  handsome  bushes.  Apply 
stakes  to  such  as  may  need  support,  and  see  that  the  low- 
growing  ones  do  not  injure  each  other,  nor  interfere  with 
other  dwarfish  plants  near  them. 

Many  kinds  of  shrubs  may  be  raised  from  seed  sown 
early  in  the  Spring,  but  are  more  commonly  propagated  by 
suckers,  layers,  or  cuttings.  Like  other  plants,  they  require 
a  good  soil,  which  should  be  manured  every  two  or  three 
years,  and  some  of  the  tender  kinds  should  have  some  pro- 
tection in  Winter. 

The  following  list  taken  from  the  New-York  Farmer, 
furnished  by  Mr.  Floy,  contains  the  most  of  those  usually 
planted  in  gardens  and  on  lawns.  These  will  furnish  a 
succession  of  flowers  from  Spring  until  Autumn,  and  may  be 
obtained  at  the  nurseries  at  moderate  prices. 


CATALOGUE,  &c. 

AmorpJia  fruticosa, — Indigo  shrub,  produces  handsome 
bunches  of  purple  flowers  in  June  and  July. 

Amygdalus  nanat   Dwarf  double-flowering  Almond;  a 


FLOWERING  AND  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS.       157 

very  beautiful  shrub,  about  three  feet  high ;  blossoms  early 
in  April. 

Aralia  spinosa,  or  Angelica  tree,  about  ten  feet  high ; 
flowers  in  very  large  bunches,  and  continues  a  long  season. 

Cytisus  Laburnum,  or  Golden  Chain;  a  most  elegant 
shrub,  producing  long  racemes  or  bunches  of  yellow  flow- 
ers in  June  and  July ;  there  are  two  kinds,  the 
English  and  the  Scotch  Laburnum.  The  Scotch  isv  the 
largest,  forming  a  pretty  large  shrub  ;  the  English  kind  is 
greener,  more  compact,  and  by  some  thought  to  be  the 
handsomest ;  they  ought  to  be  in  every  garden. 

Calycanthus  Floridus,  Allspice,  or  sweet-scented  shrub,  a 
native  of  the  Southern  States;  the  flowers  are  of  a  very 
dark  chocolate  colour,  and  the  fragrance  very  much  resem- 
bles ripe  strawberries,  easily  kept  when  once  introduced; 
this  shrub  generally  grows  about  five  feet  high  in  gardens  ; 
blossoms  from  May  to  August. 

Ceanotkus  Americanus,  Red  root,  or  Jersey  Tea  tree,  a 
plant  or  two  in  the  collection,  as  it  flowers  in  profusion,  is 
worth  having. 

Cercis  siliquastrum,  or  Judas  tree.  The  flowers  appear 
very  early  in  the  Spring,  before  the  leaves  coine  out,  and 
make  a  fine  appearance  :  as  it  grows  rather  tall,  it  is  calcu- 
lated for  the  back  row  of  the  shrubbery. 

Colutca  arborescms,  or  Bladder  Senna,  having  bunches  of 
yellow  flowers  in  June  and  July,  which  are  succeeded  by 
seeds  in  a  kind  of  bladder,  calculated  for  the  back  or  centre 
row  of  shubberies. 

Cratcegus  oxyacantJta,  the  Hawthorn.  It  makes  a  pretty 
appearance  planted  out  singly  in  the  back  or  centre  row ; 
the  flowers  are  very  fragrant;  it  is  sometimes  called  the 
Pride  of  May  ;  the  double  white,  double  scarlet,  and  single 
scarlet  Hawthorn,  are  extremely  beautiful,  and  ought  to  be 
in  every  plantation.  Hawthorn  hedges  are  much  used  in  * 
England,  where  they  look  very  handsome  when  clipped ; 
but  they  do  not  answer  so  well  in  this  country,  the  heat 
of  our  Summers  causing  the  leaves  to  fall  ofTearly,  often  in 
July;  on  that  account  they  are  not  much  used.  We  have 
several  things  which  are  better  calculated  for  that  purpose. 
14 


153  FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS 

Cydonia  Japonica,  or  Pyrus  Japonica,  a  very  beautiful 
scarlet-flowering  shrub,  from  Japan,  has  not  been  in  culti- 
vation here  for  many  years.  It  is  found  to  be  very  hardy t 
resisting  our  most  severe  frosts ;  it  is  evergreen,  flowers 
very  early,  and  continues  a  long  time.  A  second  flowering 
takes  place  in  the  latter  part  of  the  Summer.  It  is  every 
way  a  desirable  shrub. 

Daphne  mezerion,  one  of  our  most  early  flowering  shrubs, 
which  blooms  freely  in  April  and  May,  and  is  very  sweet- 
scented.  It  is  rather  tender  in  some  situations,  but  will 
stand  our  ordinary  Winters  very  well  in  a  sheltered  situation. 
Dirca  palustris,  or  Leather  wood ;  a  pretty  little  shrub, 
growing  very  regular  in  shape,  and  has  the  appearance  of  a 
large  tree  in  miniature  ;  it  is  a  native  of  our  Northern 
States;  the  flowers,  which  appear  very  early  in  the  Spring, 
are  yellow,  and  come  out  before  the  leaves. 

Gymnodadus  Canadensis,  or  Kentucky  Coffee  tree.  The 
berries  have  a  resemblance  to  coffee,  and  are  said  to  be 
a  good  substitute  for  it ;  however,  it  is  a  beautiful  tree,  with 
handsome  feathered  leaves,  and  makes  a  fine  contrast  with 
others.  It  should  be  planted  in  the  back  or  the  centre  of 
the  plantation,  and  is  very  hardy. 

Halesia  diptera,  and  Halesia  tetrapttra,  two-winged  and 
four-winged  Silver  Bell,  or  Snow-drop  tree.  They  are  both 
natives  of  the  Southern  States,  but  are  perfectly  hardy  here ; 
our  most  severe  Winters  do  not  hurt  them.  The  former 
kind  flowers  in  April,  and  the  latter  withholds  its  blossoms 
until  May.  They  are  elegant  shrubs. 

Hibiscus  Syriacus,  jl.  plena.  The  double-flowering 
Althea  frutex,  of  which  there  are  several  varieties  ;  the 
double  white,  double  red,  double  red  and  white,  and  striped, 
are  the  most  showy  ;  they  commence  their  flowering  late  in 
July,  and  continue  until  Autumn.  The  single  kind,  of 
*  which  there  are  many  varieties,  are  scarcely  worth  culti- 
vating, the  double  ones  being  raised  quite  as  well,  and 
are  equally  hardy.  These  are  indispensable  in  every 
plantation. 

Hypericum  frutescens.  Shrubby  Hypericum.     There  are 
several  species  of  this  small  beautiful  shrub,  all  natives  of 


FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  159 

the  Southern  States,  but  perfectly  hardy  here.  They  all 
flower  profusely  in  the  Summer,  and  continue  for  a  long 
time.  They  should  be  planted  in  the  front  row. 

Kerria  Japonic^,  or  Corchorus  Japonica,  yellow  Japan 
Globe  flower ;  although  a  native  of  Japan,  like  many  other 
Japanese  flowers,  it  is  perfectly  hardy  here.  It  flowers  in 
the  greatest  profusion  at  all  times,  except  in  the  very  dead 
of  Winter,  and  will  grow  almost  in  any  soil  or  situation. 

Kcelreuieria  paniculata,  Japan  bladder  tree,  or  Koelre- 
terius.  This  is  another  hardy  shrub  from  Japan.  It  has 
long  racemes  of  flowers,  succeeded  by  bladder-like  fruit, 
and  is  worthy  of  cultivation  in  every  good  collection. 

Ligustrum  vulgare,  virens.  Large  European  Privet,  a 
very  handsome  evergreen  shrub,  flowering  profusely  in  June, 
and  produces  bunches  of  black  round  berries.  It  bears 
slipping  well,  and  is  therefore  well  calculated  for  hedges,  or 
to  enclose  ornamental  plantations.  It  grows  quick,  and  is 
well  adapted  to  our  climate,  aud  when  planted  in  a  hedge- 
row, and  kept  clipped,  it  makes  a  beautiful  hedge,  and  ought 
to  be  in  more  general  use. 

Philadelplius  coronarius,  or  common  Syringa,  is  very 
ornamental,  producing  its  sweet-scented  flowers  early  in 
the  Spring,  and  in  abundance. 

Philadelphus  inodorous,  and  P.  grandiflorus.  Garland 
Syringa,  are  both  natives  of  the  Southern  States,  but  quite 
hardy  here.  Their  flowers  are  large,  and  continue  for 
several  months,  in  wreaths  or  garlands  They  are  well 
calculated  for  the  centre  row,  and  also  to  hide  unsightly 
objects,  and  have  a  beautiful  effect  when  mixed  with 
monthly  honeysuckles,  &c. 

Persica,  or  Amygdalus  Persica,  fl.  rosea  phno,  or  double- 
flowering  Peach,  is  very  beautiful  in  shrubberies.  It  blos- 
soms early,  and  sometimes  bears  fruit,  but  it  is  cultivated 
entirely  for  its  beautiful  blossoms.  A  few  trees  of  the 
Chinese  double-flowering  Apple,  (Pyrus  spectabilis,)  have 
also  a  beautiful  effect. 

Rhus  cotinus,  Venetian  sumach,  Aaron's  beard,  some- 
times called  fringe  tree,  is  a  fine  shrub,  calculated  for  the 
centre  of  the  clump  or  shrubbery.  Its  large  branches  of 


160  FLOWERING   AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

fringe  remaining  all  the  Summer,  give  it  a  curious  and 
king  effect. 

Ribes  Missouriensis,  or  Missouri  currant ;  there  are  two 
species  of  this  very  ornamental  shrub  from  Missouri,  intro- 
duced by  Lewis  &  Clarke;  they  are  quite  hardy,  and  flower 
profusely  from  April  to  June. 

Robinia  glutinosa,  and  Robinia  hispid  a ;  the  former  a 
pretty  large  shrub,  producing  fine  bunches  of  flowers  in 
great  abundance  throughout  the  Summer;  the  latter  is  a 
smaller  shrub ;  both  of  them  are,  however,  worthy  of  a  place 
in  large  collections. 

Robinia  pseudo-acacia,  or  Yellow  Locust  tree.*  This  is 
superior  to  any  other  kind  of  wood  for  ship-tunnels,  rnill- 
cogs,  and  fence-posts,  as  well  as  for  various  other  purposes^ 
Its  culture  is  very  easy,  and  may  be  propagated  in  great 
abundance,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  March,  April,  or  May,  in 
a  bed  of  good  sandy  loam,  which  is  its  favorite  soil,  and 
covering  half  an  inch  deep.  Previous  to  sowing,  put  the 
seed  in  a  basin,  pour  on  scalding  water,  and  let  it  stand  all 
Jiight ;  pick  out  such  seeds  as  are  swollen,  and  plant  them 
immediately ;  next  evening  repeat  the  same  process  with 
such  as  did  not  swell  the  first  night,  mix  the  whole  and 
sow  them  ;  they  will  come  up  in  the  course  of  the  following 
mouth  numerously;  for  no  seeds  grow  more  freely,  not- 
withstanding what  some  say  to  the  contrary.  When  the 
plants  are  ayearold,  transplant  them  out  of  the  seed  bed  into 
nursery  rows,  four  feet  distant,  and  plant  from  plant,  one 
foot.  Having  two  or  three  years'  growth  in  these  rows, 
they  may  be  planted  successfully  in  any  warm  and  tolerably 
rich  sandy  ground.  They  may  also  be  propagated  by  suck- 
ers, which  they  throw  up  abundantly,  especially  if  some  of 
the  wide-extending  roots  be  cut  through  with  an  axe.  An, 
acre  of  these  trees,  planted  at  two  feet  distant  each  way,  will 
contain  10,890 ;  at  four  feet  distant,  2,722 ;  and  it  is  said 
that  no  appropriation  of  land  is  more  lucrative  than  that 
devoted  to  this  purpose.  The  Three-Thorned  Acacia  Seed 
(Gleditschia)  should  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

*  This  tree  is  introduced  here,  rather  on  acccount  of  its  usefulness 
than  beauty,  though  the  latter  is  very  considerable. 


FLOWERING    AND    OBNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  161 

Rosa,  or  Roses,  a  very  numerous  Variety  of  these;  some 
reckon  five  or  six  hundred  kinds.  They  are  accounted  the 
most  beautiful  of  Flora's  productions.  Perhaps  a  handsome 
collection  might  be  made  of  about  fifty  of  the  best  sorts, 
which,  by  taking  such  quantity,  I  suppose  might  be  obtained 
at  about  fifty  cents  each,  under  name  ;  and,  generally,  a 
fine  collection  unnamed  at  half  that  amount.  No  good 
garden  or  shrubbery  should  be  without  them. 

Sorbus  aucuparia,)  Mountain  Ash,  or  Roan  tree.  This 
is  a  very  beautiful  shrub  of  the  larger  size  ;  the  leaves  are 
ornamental  ;  the  flowers  and  fruit,  which  are  produced  in 
large  bunches,  are  beautiful  ;  the  fruit  remains  till  late  in 
the  Autumn ;  it  is  a  native  of  Europe. 

Sorbus  Canadensis.  This  is  a  native  of  our  Northern 
frontiers  and  mountains  ;  it  does  not  grow  so  large  as  the 
former  ;  the  berries  are  smaller  and  red,  the  former  larger 
and  of  an  orange  colour,  but  otherwise  much  resemble  it. 

Spartium  junceum,  Genista,  etc.  Two  or  three  species  of 
Broom,  producing  numerous  bunches  of  yellow  flowers  in 
May  and  June  ;  the  Genista,  or  Spanish  Broom,  which  has 
white  flowers,  is  also  very  pretty,  but  not  quite  so  hardy  as 
the  former. 

Symphoria  racemosa,  or  Snow-berry,  sometimes  called 
St.  Peter's  wort,  a  pretty  little  shrub  ;  the  bunches  of  wax- 
like  white  berries,  which  it  produces  during  the  whole  Sum- 
mer, give  it  a  beautiful  appearance. 

Syringa  vu7garis^  or  common  Lilac,  blossoming  in  May, 
i  well  known  to  all,  and  needs  no  comment.  The  white 
variety  is  not  quite  so  common — they  are  only  used  for  out- 
side plantings,  as  they  sucker  very  freely,  and  soon  make 
themselves  common. 

Syringa  Persica,  or  Persian  Lilac,  is  a  delicate  low  shrub 
the  flowers  very  abundant,  and  the  leaves  small  and  delicate. 
There  are  two  varieties  of  the  Persian  Lilac ;  the  white 
flowering,  and  the  blue  or  purple  flowering. 

The  Chinese  cut-leaved  Lilac  is  very  curious  ;  the  leaves 
are  cut  like  Parsley,  the  flowers  growing  in  longer  racemes 
than  the  former. 

Siberian,  or  large  Persian  Lilac.     The  bunches  of  flowers 

14* 


162  FLOWERING    AND    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

are  very  large,  and  continue  in  season  a  long  time  after  tlie 
common  Lilac. 

Tamarix  Gallica,  or  French  Tamarix,  and  the  Tamarix 
Germanica,  German  Tamarix,  are  two  pretty  shrubs  ;  the 
leaves  and  branches  are  small  and  slender,  producing  quan- 
tities of  beautiful  flowers,  which  form  a  very  striking  contrast 
to  the  other  part  of  the  shrubbery. 

Viburnum  opulus,  or  Guilder  rose,  otherwise  called  Snow- 
ball, is  a  very  showy  shrub,  producing  large  balls  of  snow- 
white  flowers  in  May  ;  and  is  indispensably  necessary  to 
every  shrubbery. 

Vitex  agnus  castus,  or  Chaste  tree,  a  pretty  and  singular 
shrub,  flowering  the  most  part  of  the  Summer. 

CLIMBING  PLANTS. 

Ampelopsis  hederacea.  This  plant,  on  account  of  the 
largeness  of  its  leaves,  and  rapidity  of  its  growth,  is  weM 
adapted  for  covering  walls.  There  are  several  species,  all 
resembling  the  vine  in  habit  arid  flower. 

Aristolochia  sipho.  Birthwort,  or  Dutchman's  pipe.  A 
very  curious  blooming  plant,  with  extraordinary  large  foliage, 
well  calculated  for  an  arbour  ;  affording  a  dense  and  cool- 
ing shade. 

Atragene  alpina.  A  free-growing  deciduous  shrub,  with 
small  pinnated  foliage,  and  large  blush-coloured  flowers, 
which  continue  from  May  to  July. 

Bignonia  crucigera,  is  a  desirable  evergreen  ;  being  of  a 
luxuriant  growth.     It  will  cover  in  a  few  years  an  area  of 
fifty  feet  ;  and  bloom  from  May  to  August;  colour  orange. 
Bignonia  radicans,  or  Trumpet  creeper,  produces  large 
bunches  of  red  trumpet-shaped  flowers,  in  July  and  August. 
Bignonia  grandiflora,  is  much  like  the  former  in  habit 
and  appearance,  but  the  flowers   are   much   larger.     It  is 
said  to  be  a  native  of  China,  and  the  former  a  native  of  this 
country.     They  are  both  perfectly  hardy,  and  will  climb  up 
brick  work  or  wooden  fences,  without  any  assistance. 

Clematis,  or  Virgin's  Bower.     There  are  several  speciesi 
some  of  them  tender,  or  not  sufficiently  hardy  for  our  severe 


CLIMBING    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

Winters,  without  protection.  The  Clematis  azurea,  bi color 
andjlama,  are  splendid  varieties.  The  Clematis  Virginica, 
Viorna}  Viticelli,  and  Vitalba,  are  perfectly  hardy,  and 
blossom  throughout  the  Summer. 

Glycine  Smensis,  or  Wistaria  Sinensis,  is  a  handsome 
Chinese  creeper  of  recent  introduction,  from  China,  and  i* 
not  yet  common  in  our  nurseries.  It  is  a  beautiful  vine, 
running  to  a  great  height,  and  loaded  with  long  racemes  Of 
purple  flowers  throughout  the  Summer. 

Glycine frutescens,  or  Wistaria  frutescens.  This  beautiful 
brother  ofthe  Chinese  kind,  is  a  native  of  our  SouthernStates, 
grows  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  others,  and  perhaps  not 
inferior.  Although  this  fine  creeper  has  been  long  known 
in  England,  we  have  not  heard  much  about  it  by  English 
writers ;  the  conclusion  seems  to  be,  that  it  does  not  flower 
well  in  England.  In  fact,  none  of  our  Southern  plants  do 
well  in  that  country,  while  those  from  China  do  very  well — 
here,  however,  it  is  quite  the  reverse.  I  have  the  Chinese 
Wistaria  Sinensis,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high,  and  the 
American  Wistaria  about  the  same  height.  The  Chinese 
does  not  look  so  vigorous  and  green  as  his  American  bro- 
ther.— The  American  Wistaria  should  be  planted  in  every 
garden  with  other  creepers,  or  to  run  up  the  trees  in  shrub- 
beries, according  to  its  natural  position. 

Hedra  Helix.  Irish  Ivy,  is  a  desirable  evergreen  for 
covering  naked  walls,  or  any  other  unsightly  object.  The 
leaves  are  of  a  lively  green,  and  from  three  to  five  angled. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  it;  all  calculated  for  growing 
in  confined  shady  situations,  where  plants  in  general  will 
not  thrive. 

Jasminum  ojflcinale.  Garden  Jasmine.  This  delicious 
climbing  shrub,  has  from  time  immemorial,  been  common  in 
Europe  for  covering  arbours.  Its  delicate  white  fragrant 
flowers  render  it  very  desirable  ;  but  it  is  rather  tender  for 
our  Northern  Winters,  unless  well  protected.  In  the  South- 
ern States,  this  plant,  and  also  the  yellow  Jasmine,  revolu- 
tum,  grow  luxuriantly  and  bloom  profusely,  and  even  Jas- 
minum grandiflora  will  endure  the  Winters  of  South  Caro- 
lina and  Grorgia. 


164  CLIMBING   ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS. 

Lonicera,  comprehending  all  the  fine  sweet-scented  honey, 
suckles.  Of  the  Italian  kinds,  the  monthly  honeysuckle  is 
decidedly  superior,  continuing  to  flower  all  through  the 
Summer,  until  late  in  Autumn,  and  is  very  fragrant.  Some 
of  the  other  European  kinds  maybe  occasionally  introduced 
into  large  shrubberies.  There  is  a  white  honeysuckle 
lately  introduced  from  France,  denominated  Hedysarum 
coronarium,  which  is  in  great  repute.  Two  or  three  Ameri- 
can kinds  deserve  particular  notice. 

Lonicera  semper  virens^or  Coral  Trumpet,  monthly  honey- 
suckle, is  extremely  beautiful,  flowering  the  whole  of  the 
Summer,  with  its  thousands  of  scarlet  bunches  ;  it  is, 
however,  destitute  of  scent. 

Lonicera  Fraseri,  also  an  American  :  the  flowers  are  like 
the  other  kind  in  almost  every  particular,  except  colour, 
this  being  a  bright  yellow. 

Lonicera^  pubescent,  or  Caprifolium  pubescens,  a  large 
and  beautiful  honeysuckle  from  the  North-west  coast  ;  the 
flowers  are  large,  and  of  a  bright  copper  colour,  inclining  to 
orange — they  are  all  perfectly  hardy. 

Lonicera  Jlexuosa — Chinese  honeysuckle,  of  late  intro- 
duction ;  it  is  perfectly  hardy,  withstanding  our  most  severe 
frosts  without  the  least  injury  ;  it  is  a  very  sweet-scented 
honeysuckle,  grows  rapidly,  and  to  an  immense  height.  It 
flowers  in  pairs  and  threes  all  up  the  branches,  covering  the 
whole  plant  completely  with  flowers.  It  blossoms  in  Spring 
and  Autumn,  and  is  a  very  valuable  acquisition  to  our  gar- 
dens and  shrubberies. 

Lonicera  Japonica,  or  Japan  honeysuckle.  This  bears 
flowers  in  great  profusion,  which  are  white,  afterwards  be- 
coming of  a  light  yellow.  It  is  not  so  hardy  as  the 
Chinese,  and  requires  a  little  protection  in  the  Winter. 

Passijlora,  or  Passion  Vine.  There  are  several  hardy 
species,  but  the  best  is  the  Passiflora  incarnata  ;  this,  al- 
though it  dies  to  the  ground  every  Winter,  will,  during  the 
Summer,  grow  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  and  yield  abun- 
dance of  beautiful  purple  flowers. 

Periplaca  grasca,  or  Silk  Vine.  A  prolific  climber,  wood 
slender,  twining  and  elastic,  leaves,  smooth,  ovate,  lanceolate. 


CLIMBING    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  165 

Established  plants  will  grow  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  one  season, 
and  yield  flowers  in  clusters,  of  a  brownish  yellow  colour 
from  May  to  July. 

I  shall  only  add  to  the  above,  the  running  kinds  of  roses; 
although  there  are  many  other  things  which  might  be  men- 
tioned. 

Rosa  multiflora,  from  China,  is  pretty  well  known,  pro- 
ducing thousands  of  small  double  red  roses  in  bunches.  It 
requires  a  sheltered  situation  from  some  of  our  keen  north- 
westers. Rosa  mult'i.flora  alba,  from  the  same  country,  is  of 
late  importation,  but  as  it  increases  readily,  may  be  ob- 
tained at  about  the  same  price  as  the  former;  the  bunches 
of  flowers  are  white.  Rosa  Grivellis,  a  running  rose,  also 
from  China,  the  flowers  ofvarious  colours.  Rosa  rubifolia, 
Raspberry-leaved  rose,  from  our  Northern  frontiers,  and 
extending  over  the  Western  country ;  although  a  single 
flowering  rose,  it  produces  large  bunches  of  flowers,  which 
are  differently  coloured  on  the  same  bunch,  exactly  like  the 
former  China  kind,  and  is  another  instance  of  the  similarity 
of  plants,  natives  of  China,  and  our  country. 

Rosa  canina,fl.  ple.no.  English  double  dog  rose,  is  a  very 
pretty  little  double  rose,  and  will  run  to  a  great  height. 
Rosa  Banksii,  Lady  Banks'  double  white  China  running 
rose  ;  it  runs  up  and  spreads  much — it  may  be  easily  known 
from  others  of  the  running  roses,  by  its  being  entirely  des- 
titute of  prickles.  Rosa  Noisette,  and  Champney's,  are 
said  to  have  been  raised  from  China  seeds  in  Carolina — 
they  are  not  strictly  running  roses,  but  as  they  grow  up  tall, 
are  fine  ornaments  for  the  shrubbery,  flowering  during  the 
whole  of  the  Summer  and  Autumn,  in  large  clusters.  The 
Maderia  rose,  or  double  white  cluster,  musk,  flowers  through- 
out the  Summer  and  Autumn  months,  and  is  therefore  well 
adapted  for  the  shrubbery.  Rosa  Cherokensis,  called  the 
nondescript,  or  Georgia  rose — the  flowers  are  very  large, 
being  white,  with  yellow  centre.  This  is  a  running  rose, 
growing  very  high  around  trees,  &c. 

Rosa  rubiginosa,  or  Sweetbriar,  is  too  well  known  to 
need  description. 


166 
BRIEF    DIRECTIONS 

FOR   THE 

PROPAGATION 

OF 


Flowering  shrubs  are  variously  propagated  by  slips,  cut- 
tings, layers,  suckers,  buds  or  scions;  and  these  may  be  thus 
defined. 

1.  Slips  are  simply  small  branches,  slipped  down  from 
the  side  of  a  large  branch,  or  from  the  main  stem.      These 
should  be  taken  from  the  parent  plants,  carefully,  so  as  to 
leave  an  eye  or  heel,  at  the  lower  or  but-end. 

2.  Cuttings  should  be  made  from  shoots  or  stalks  of  a 
prior  year's  growth  ;  and  such  should  be  selected  as  are  well 
ripened,  having  their  joints  not  far  apart  :  they  may  be  cut 
so  as  to  have  three  or  four  joints  in  each  cutting.     In  some 
species  of  succulent  plants,  the  joints  being  near   together, 
cuttings  need  not  be  more  than  from  four  to  six  inches  long; 
but  shrubby  plants  in  general  will  admit  of  their  being  from 
ten  to  twelve  inches. 

3.  Layers  differ  from  cuttings  in  nothing,  except  that  they 
strike  root  into  the  soil,  while  yet  adhering  to  the  parent 
plant. 

4.  Suckers  are  in  reality  young  plants,  connected  to  the 
parent  at  the  root,  which  should  be  carefully  separated  in 
Spring  or  Autumn,  and  transplanted  in  the  same  manner  as 
plants  raised  by  any  other  method  ;  either  in  a  Nursery  bed, 
Shrubbery,  or  Flower  border. 

5.  Scions  are  of  two  sorts;   scions  properly  so  called,  and 
buds.     A  scion  is  a  cutting,  or  portion  of  a  plant,  which  is 
caused  to  grow  upon  another  plant,  from   which  it  attracts 
fluid  for  the  nourishment  of  its  leaf  buds  ;  these  thus  fed, 
gradually  grow   upwards  into  branches,  and  send  woody 
matter  downwards,  so  as  to  become  connected  with  the  stock 
grafted  on, 


PROPAGATION    OP    ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS.  167 

The  business  of  planting  slips,  cuttings,  <fcc.  of  the  tender 
kinds  into  nursery  pots,  and  the  hardy  kinds  into  borders,  is 
generally  performed  in  Spring  and  Autumn ;  there  arer 
however,  some  exceptions  to  this  rule,  which  will  be  ex- 
plained hereafter.  See  Calendar  and  Index. 

For  the  purpose  of  raising  hardy  flowering  shrubs  by 
slips  or  cuttings,  let  a  border  be  prepared  in  a  shaded  and 
sheltered  situation,  by  manuring  and  deep  digging.  Provide 
plants  about  a  foot  long,  and  insert  them  into  the  ground, 
full  one-third  of  their  length  ;  the  rows  may  be  about  two 
feet  apart,  and  the  plants  nine  inches  from  each  other  in  the 
rowd.  Press  the  ground  around  the  stems,  and  rake  it 
smooth.  The  after  management  of  nursery  beds  made  in 
Spring,  is  to  keep  them  watered  in  dry  weather,  also  to  hoe 
them  occasionally,  and  by  Autumn  the  plants  will  be  rooted. 

In  cold  climates,  plantations  made  in  Autumn,  should 
be  protected  by  a  covering  of  leaves,  straw  or  litter,  merely 
sufficient  to  screen  the  plants  from  wind  and  the  sun's  rays 
in  time  of  freezing,  the  heat  of  the  Sun  being  more  destruc- 
tive to  vegetation  in  Winter  than  the  cold  weather. 

To  increase  flowering  shrubs,  rose  bushes,  or  any  other 
plants  by  layers,  dig  the  ground  about  the  plants  to  be 
operated  on  to  a  good  depth  ;  then  with  a  sharp  knife  cut 
between  two  joints  half  through  the  stalk  or  branch, and  turn- 
ing  the  edge  of  the  knife  upwards,  make  a  slit  past  the  first 
joint  to  the  middle  between  it  and  the  next  above  ;  make  a 
hollow  in  the  ground  and  insert  the  cut  part  from  one  to  three 
inches  deep,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  plant  operated 
on,  keeping  the  branch  perpendicular,  and  the  slit  open. 
Each  layer  should  be  pegged  down  with  a  hooked  stick, 
made  from  small  branches  of  trees,  to  keep  it  in  its  proper 
position,  as  well  as  to  prevent  the  cut  part  from  uniting, 
whence  the  roots  form  for  the  young  plants. 

Budding,  grafting,  and  inarching,  is  often  practised  on 
shrubs,  with  a  view  to  perpetuate  improved  varieties.  Bud- 
ding may  be  performed  on  roses  of  different  descriptions,  as 
the  White  Moss,  Unique,  Tuscany,  and  other  fine  varieties  : 
upon  such  wild  kinds  as  are  of  a  strong  habit.  The  best 
time  for  performing  the  operation,  is  towards  the  end  of  July 


168  PROPAGATION    OF   ORNAMENTAL    SHRUBS. 

or  early  in  August,  as  the  buds  are  then  generally  matured 
so  that  the  bark  parts  freely  from  the  wood,  which  is  essen- 
tial to  the  successful  accomplishment  of  the  business. 

Grafting  is  generally  performed  in  the  Spring.  There 
are  many  methods  practised  on  trees,  as  cleft  grafting,  whip 
grafting,  saddle  grafting,  side  grafting,  root  grafting,  inarch- 
ing or  grafting  by  approach,  &c.  which  methods  are  •»!!  fully 
explained  under  the  head  of  "Budding  and  Grafting,"  in  the 
fruit  department.  I  shall,  however,  here  present  a  short 
view  of  the  mode  best  adapted  for  shrubs. 

Scallop  budding  is  performed  by  cutting  from  a  small 
stock  a  thin  narrow  scallop  of  wood,  about  an  inch  in 
length,  and  taking  from  the  chosen  twig,  a  thin  scallop  of 
wood  of  the  same  dimensions  :  this  is  instantly  applied,  and 
fitted  perfectly  at  top  and  bottom,  and  as  nearly  as  possible 
on  its  sides,  and  firmly  bound  with  bass  matting.  This  may 
be  performed  in  Spring,  and  if  it  fails,  it  may  be  done  again 
in  the  month  of  July.  The  French  practise  this  mode  on 
Roses. 

The  most  simple  method  of  grafting  is,  to  cut  off  the 
stock  in  a  wedge- like  manner  ;  then  prepare  one  of  the  grafts 
with  three  or  four  eyes  ;  proceed  to  cut  a  slit  in  it  upwards, 
and  thrust  it  on  the  stock,  taking  care  to  join  the  bark  of  each 
together;  tie  them  firmly  together  with  bass,  and  immediately 
cover  the  grafted  part  with  clay  and  horse  dung  mixed ; 
which  being  well  prepared,  should  be  closed  securely  round 
the  graft  in  an  oval  form, 

Inarching,  or  grafting  by  approach  may  be  thus  performed. 
The  shrubs  to  be  grafted  must  be  growing  very  near  to  those 
which  are  to  furnish  the  grafts  ;  a  branch  of  each  must 
then  be  prepared  by  making  a  long  sloping  cut  nearly  to  its 
centre  ;  the  twain  must  be  brought  together,  and  secured 
by  a  bandage  of  matting,  so  that  the  bark  may  meet  as 
nearly  as  possible-  The  graft  may  then  be  covered  with  clay 
composition  ;  and  when  a  complete  union  has  taken  place, 
the  plants  may  be  separated  with  a  sharp  knife,  by  cutting 
off  below  the  junction. 

As  the  above  directions  are  applicable  to  the  propagation, 
and  management  of  Greenhouse  tender,  and  half  hardy 


PROPAGATION  OF  ORNAMENTAL  SHRUBS.  169 

plants,  as  well  as  to  hardy  shrubs  and  vines  ;  it  may  be  ne- 
cessary here  to  remind  the  reader,  that  delicate  roses  and 
half-hardy  woody  plants  left  out  during  the  Winter,  should  be 
protected  either  by  bending  down  the  branches  and  covering 
them  with  soil,  or  by  tying  them  up  to  stakes,  and  binding 
straw  snugly  around  them.  At  the  same  time  throw  some 
dung  on  the  ground  about  the  roots  ;  the  longest  of  which 
may  be  raked  offon  the  approach  of  Spring,  and  the  shortest 
forked  in,  so  as  to  manure  the  plants,  and  thus  give  vigour 
to  their  rising  shoots. 

Deciduous  shrubs  may  be  transplanted  at  any  time  after 
they  lose  their  leaves,  and  before  the  buds  begin  to  expand  in 
Spring,  provided  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good  con- 
dition to  receive  them  ;  the  holes  should  be  dug  capacious 
enough  to  hold  the  roots  without  cramping  them,  and  some 
earth,  well  pulverized,  must  be  thrown  equally  among  the 
fibres  of  the  roots,  which  should  be  well  shaken,  and  the 
earth  trodden  down  around  the  plants,  until  brought  to  the 
level  required.  Evergreens  should  be  removed  carefully 
with  a  ball  of  earth  connected  with  their  roots,  and  some 
good  mould  should  be  provided  to  fill  in  with. 

The  Spring  pruning  of  shrubs  and  vines  should  be  attended 
to  before  the  buds  begin  to  rise ;  say  March  in  the  Northern 
States,  and  January  in  the  South.  In  performing  this  busi- 
ness, use  a  sharp  knife,  in  order  that  all  amputations  and 
wounds  be  cut  and  pared  smooth,  and  in  a  slanting  manner. 
Divest  the  plants  of  all  dead  wood,  superfluous  branches,  and 
those  which  cross  each  other.  Regulate  the  plantation  in 
such  manner,  that  the  natural  form  and  habit  of  each  plant 
be  retained  as  much  as  possible,  and  train  the  branches  so 
that  the  Sun  can  have  free  access  to  every  part ;  bearing  in 
mind  the  hints  thrown  out  in  the  introduction  to  our  Cata- 
logue. Some  shrubs  and  vines  will  need  a  Summer  pruning, 
merely  to  thin  out  young  shoots,  superfluous  wood,  &c.  and 
to  train  straggling  branches. 


15 


170 

THE 


BEAUTIES   OF  APRIL  AND  MAY. 


THE  following  article  is  submitted,  as  being  well  calcu- 
lated to  afford  amateurs  mental  recreation,  while  engaged 
in  rural  pursuits  ;  and  it  is  presumed  that  the  practical 
gardener  will  not  view  the  insertion  of  this  article  as  a 
digression,  as  it  exhibits  the  beauty  and  order  of  the  flowery 
tribe  in  propitious  climates,  or  when  cultivated  at  the  proper 
season,  in  a  truly  appropriate  and  amusing  light. 

APRIL. 

"Descend,  sweet  April,  from  yon  watery  bow, 
And  liberal  strew  the  ground  with  budding  flowers, 
With  leafless  Crocus,  leaf-veiled  Violet, 
Auricula,  with  powdered  cup.  Primrose  * 

That  loves  to  lurk  below  the  Hawthorn  shade." 

It  is  generally  admitted,  that  the  month  of  April  gives  the 
most  perfect  image  of  Spring ;  for  its  vicissitudes  of  warm 
gleams  of  sunshine  and  gentle  showers,  have  the  most  pow- 
erful effect  in  hastening  the  universal  springing  of  the  vege- 
table tribes,  from  whence  the  season  derives  its  appellation. 
Next  comes  the  favourite  month  of  the  year,  in  poetical 
description, 

MAY. 

"For  thee,  sweet  month,  the  groves  green  liv'ries  wear; 
If  not  the  first,  the  fairest  in  the  year  ; 
Thou  dost  afford  us  many  pleasant  hours, 
While  Nature's  ready  pencil  paints  the  flowers." 

The  pious  Hervey,  in  his  Meditations  on  the  Flower  Gar- 
den, has  furnished  us  many  sublime  ideas  respecting  the 
order,  variety,  and  beauty  of  the  flowery  tribe.*  It  is  in 


*Those  who  have  read  Hervey "s  Meditations  on  the  Flower  Garden , 
will  discover  that  the  pious  author's  phraseology,  and  several  of  his 
sublime  ideas,  are  interspersed  through  this  article,  which,  from  being 
blended  with  other  matter,  could  not  be  designated  in  the  customary  way. 


THE    BEAUTIES  OP  APRIL  AND  MAY.  171 

vain  to  attempt  a  catalogue  of  those  amiable  gifts.  There 
is  an  endless  multiplicity  in  their  characters,  yet  an  inva- 
riable order  in  their  approaches.  Every  month,  almost  every 
week,  has  its  peculiar  ornaments  ;  not  servilely  copying  the 
works  of  its  predecessors,  but  forming,  still  forming,  and 
still  executing,  some  new  design  ;  so  lavish  is  the  fancy,  yet 
so  exact  is  the  process  of  Nature.  Were  all  the  flowery 
tribe  to  exhibit  themselves  at  one  particular  season,  there 
would  be  at  once  a  promiscuous  throng,  and  at  once  a  total 
privation. 

We  should  scarcely  have  an  opportunity  of  adverting  to 
the  dainty  qualities  of  half,  and  must  soon  lose  the  agreeable 
company  of  them  all.  But  now,  since  every  species  has  a 
separate  post  to  occupy,  and  a  distinct  interval  for  appearing, 
we  can  take  a  leisurely  and  minute  survey  of  each  succeed- 
ing set.  We  can  view  and  review  their  forms,  enter  into  a 
more  intimate  acquaintance  with  their  charming  accom- 
plishments, and  receive  all  those  pleasing  sensations  which 
they  are  calculated  to  yield. 

Before  the  trees  have  ventured  to  unfold  their  leaves,  and 
while-the  icicles  are  pendant  on  our  houses,  the  Snow-drop 
breaks  her  way  through  the  frozen  soil,  fearless  of  danger. 
Next  peeps  out  the  Crocus,  but  cautiously  and  with  an  air 
of  timidity.  She  shuns  the  howling  blasts,  and  cleaves 
closely  to  her  humble  situation.  Nor  is  the  Violet  last  in 
the  shining  embassy,  which,  with  all  the  embellishments 
that  would  grace  a  royal  garden,  condescends  to  line  our 
borders,  and  bloom  at  the  feet  of  briars.  Freely  she  distri- 
butes the  bounty  of  her  emissive  sweets,  while  herself  retires 
from  sight,  seeking  rather  to  administer  pleasure  than  to 
win  admiration.  Emblem,  expressive  emblem,  of  those 
modest  virtues  which  delight  to  bloom  in  obscurity.  There 
are  several  kinds  of  Violets,  but  the  fragrant,  both  blue  and 
white,  are  the  earliest.  Shakspeare  compares  an  exquisitely 
sweet  strain  of  music  to  the  delicious  scent  of  this  flower : 


"Oh  !  it  came  o'er  my  ear  like  the  sweet  South, 
That  breathes  upon  a  bank  of  Violets, 
.Stealing  and  giving  odour." 


172  THE  BEAUTIES  OP  APRIL  AND  MAY. 

The  pious  Hervey,  in  his  admonitions  to  those  who 
indulge  in  sloth,  has  thrown  out  the  following  sublime  ideas: 
What  sweets  are  those  which  so  agreeably  salute  my  nos- 
trils ?  They  are  the  breath  of  the  flowers,  the  incense  of 
the  gardens.  How  liberally  does  the  Jasmine  dispense  her 
odoriferous  riches !  How  deliciously  has  the  Woodbine 
embalmed  this  morning  walk  !  The  air  is  all  perfume. 
And  is  not  this  another  most  engaging  argument  to  forsake 
the  bed  of  sloth  1  Who  would  be  involved  in  senseless 
slumbers,  while  so  many  breathing  sweets  invite  him  to  a 
feast  of  fragrancy — especially  considering  that  the  advan- 
cing day  will  exhale  the  volatile  dainties?  A  fugitive  treat 
they  are,  prepared  only  for  the  wakeful  and  industrious* 
Whereas,  when  the  sluggard  lifts  his  heavy  eyes,  the  flowers 
will  droop,  their  fine  sweets  be  dissipated,  and  instead  of 
this  refreshing  humidity,  the  air  will  become  a  kind  of  liquid 
fire." 

With  this  very  motive,  heightened  by  a  representation  of 
the  most  charming  pieces  of  morning  scenery,  the  parent  of 
mankind  awakes  his  lovely  consort.  There  is  such  a  deli- 
cacy in  the  choice,  and  so  much  life  in  the  description  of 
these  rural  images,  that  I  cannot  excuse  myself  without 
repeating  the  whole  passage.  Whisper  it,  some  friendly 
genius,  in  the  ear  of  every  one,  who  is  now  sunk  in  sleep, 
and  lost  to  all  these  refined  gratifications  ! 

"  Awake  !  the  morning  shines,  and  the  fresh  field 
Calls  you:  ye  lose  the  prime,  to  mark  how  spring 
The  tended  plants,  how  blows  the  Citron  grove ; 
What  drops  the  Myrrh,  and  what  the  balmy  Reed ; 
*         How  Nature  paints  her  colours;  how  the  bee 
Sits  on  the  bloom,  extracting  liquid  sweets." 

How  delightful  is  this  fragrance  !  It  is  distributed  in 
the  nicest  proportion ;  neither  so  strong  as  to  oppress  the 
organs,  nor  so  faint  as  to  elude  them.  We  are  soon  cloyed 
at  a  sumptuous  banquet ;  but  this  pleasure  never  loses  its 
poignancy,  never  palls  the  appetite.  Here  luxury  itself  is 
innpcence  ;  or  rather  in  this  case,  indulgence  is  incapable  of 
excess.  This  balmy  entertainment  not  only  regales  the 


THE  BEAUTIES  OP  APRIL  AND  MAY.  173 

sense,  but  cheers  the  very  soul ;  and,  instead  of  clogging, 
elates  its  powers. 

41  The  soft  green  grass  is  growing 

O'er  meadow  and  o'er  dale ; 
The  silvery  founts  are  flowing 

Upon  the  verdant  vale ; 
The  pale  Snow-drop  is  springing 

To  greet  the  glowingSun ; 
The  Primrose  sweet  is  flinging 

Perfume  the  fields  along ; 
The  trees  are  in  their  blossom, 

The  birds  are  in  their  song  ; 
As  Spring  upon  the  bosom 

Of  Nature's  borne  along." 

"So  the  dawn  of  human  life 
Doth  green  and  verdant  spring: 
It  doth  little  ween  the  strife- 
Like  the  Snow-drop  it  is  fair, 

And  liko  the  Primrose  sweet, 
But  its  innocence  can't  scare 
The  blight  from  its  retreat." 

Our  subject  is  so  enchanting,  that  we  had  inadvertently 
wandered  from  the  path  we  first  entered.  We  now  retrace 
our  steps,  and  take  a  glance  at  surrounding  objects.  The 
fields  look  green  with  the  springing  grass.  See  the  Daffodil 
how  it  spreads  itself  to  the  wind  1  The  leaves  of  Honey- 
suckles begin  to  expand,  and  Lilacs,  or  Syringas,  of  various 
hues,  unfold  their  buds.  The  Almond  exhibits  its  rosy 
clusters,  and  the  Corchorus  its  golden  balls.  Many  of  the 
lowlier  plants  exhibit  their  yellow  and  purple  colours,  and 
the  buds  of  Lilies,  and  other  Perennial  plants,  prepare 
to  show  themselves.  If  we  turn  our  attention  to  the  orchard, 
we  behold  the  Apricots,  Nectarines,  and  Peaches,  lead  the 
way  in  blossoming,  which  are  followed  by  the  Cherry  and 
the  Plum.  These  form  a  most  agreeable  spectacle,  as  well 
on  account  of  their  beauty  as  of  the  promise  they  give  of 
future  benefits.  It  is,  however,  an  anxious  time  for  the 
possessor,  as  the  fairest  prospect  of  a  plentiful  increase 
is  often  blighted.  Shakspeare  draws  a  pathetic  comparison 

15" 


174  THE  BEAUTIES  OF  A?RIL  AND  MAY. 

from  this  circumstance,  of  the  delusive  nature  of  human 
expectations : 

"  This  is  the  state  of  man  ;  to-day  he  puts  forth 
The  tender  leaves  of  hope;  to-morrow  blossoms, 
And  bears  his  blushing  honors  thick  upon  him ; 
The  third  day  comes  a  frost,  a  killing  frost, 
And  nips  his  root." 

But  we  now  return  to  the  garden.  Before  we  have  time 
to  explore  Nature's  treasures,  many  disappear ;  among  these 
are  the  humble  Daisy,  which  shrinks  from  the  intense  heat, 
and  the  several  varieties  of  Primulas  or  early  spring  flowers. 
The  various  grades  of  Polyanthus  deserve  a  close  inspec- 
tion ;  these,  for  a  while,  exhibit  their  sparkling  beauties,  but 
alas  !  soon  disappear.  Scarcely  have  we  sustained  this  loss, 
but  in  comes  the  Auricula,  and  more  than  retrieves  it.  Ar- 
rayed she  comes  in  a  splendid  variety  of  amiable  forms, 
with  an  eye  of  crystal,  and  garments  of  the  most  glossy 
satin.  A  very  distinguished  procession  this  !  The  favorite 
care  of  the  florist,  but  these  also  soon  disappear.  Who 
could  forbear  grieving  at  their  departure,  did  not  the  various 
sorts  of  bulbous  flowers  burst  their  bands  asunder,  or  rather 
expand  so  as  to  exhibit  their  fragrance  and  beauty. 

"Fair-handed  Spring 

Throws  out  the  Snow-drop  and  the  Crocus  first, 
The  Daisy,  Primrose,  Violet  darkly  blue, 
And  Polyanthus  with  unumbered  dyes. 
Then  comes  the  Auricula,  enriched  with  shining  meal, 
O'er  all  their  velvet  leaves." 

While  we  reluctantly  dispense  with  the  sweet  perfumes  of 
the  Hyacinth  and  Narcissus,  we  behold  the  Tulips  begin  to 
raise  themselves  on  their  fine  wands  or  stately  stalks.  They 
flush  the  parterre  with  one  of  the  gayest  dresses  that  bloom- 
ing Nature  wears.  Here  one  may  behold  the  innocent 
wantonness  of  beauty.  Here  she  indulges  a  thousand  freaks, 
and  sports  herself  in  the  most  charming  diversity  of  colours. 
In  a  grove  of  Tulips,  or  a  bed  of  Pinks,  one  perceives  a 
difference  in  almost  every  individual.  Scarcely  any  two 


THE  BEAUTIES  OP  APRIL  AND  MAT.  1T5 

are  turned  and  tinted  exactly  alike.  What  colours,  what 
colours  are  here  !  these  so  nobly  bold,  and  those  so  deli- 
cately languid! 

What  a  glow  is  enkindled  in  some  !  what  a  gloss  shines 
upon  others!  With  what  a  masterly  skill  is  every  one  of 
the  varying  tints  disposed !  Here  they  seem  to  be  thrown 
on  with  an  easy  dash  of  security  and  freedom ;  there  they 
are  adjusted  by  the  nicest  touches  of  art  and  accuracy. 
Those  colours  which  form  the  ground  are  always  so  judi- 
ciously chosen,  as  to  heighten  the  lustre  of  the  superadded 
figures ;  while  the  verdure  of  the  impalement,  or  shadings 
of  the  foliage,  impart  new  liveliness  to  the  whole.  Fine, 
inimitably  fine,  is  the  texture  of  the  web  on  which  these 
shining  treasures  are  displayed.  What  are  the  labours  of 
the  Persian  looms  ;  what  all  the  gay  attire  which  the  shuttle 
or  the  needle  can  furnish,  compared  with  Nature's  works  1 
One  cannot  forbear  reflection  in  this  place,  on  the  too  pre- 
vailing humour  of  being  fond  and  ostentatious  of  dress. 
What  an  abject  and  mistaken  ambition  is  this  !  How  un- 
worthy the  dignity  of  man,  and  the  wisdom  of  rational 
beings  !  Especially  since  these  little  productions  of  the 
earth  have  indisputably  the  pre-eminence  in  such  outward 
embellishments. 

"Bright  TULIPS,  we  do  know, 

Ye  had  your  coming  hither, 
And  fading  time  doth  show, 

That  ye  must  quickly  wither; 

Your  sisterhood  may  stay, 

And  smile  here  for  an  hour, 

.     But  ye  must  quickly  die  away, 

E'en  as  the  meanest  flower. 

Come  virgins,  then,  and  see 

Your  frailties,  and  bemoan  ye ; 
For  lost  like  these, — 'twill  be 

As  time  had  never  known  ye." 

But  let  us  not  forget  the  fragrant,  the  very  fragrant  Wall 
and  Gilli-flowers  ;  some  of  these  regale  us  with  their  per- 


I  «O  THE  BEAUTIES  OF  APRIL  AND  MAY. 

fumes  through  various  vicissitudes  and  alternations  of  the 
season,  while  others  make  a  transient  visit  only. 

"  I  love  thee,  lone  and  pensive  flower, 

Because  thou  dost  not  flaunt  thy  bloom 
In  pleasure's  gay  and  garnish'd  bower, 

Or  luxury's  proud  banquet  room ; 
But  on  the  silent  mouldering  wall 

Thy  clinging  leaves  a  fragrance  shed, 
Or  give  to  the  deserted  hall 

A  relic  of  its  glories  fled. 

These  wreaths,  in  vivid  freshness  bright, 

Methinks  the  fluttering  herd  portray, 
Who  bask  on  fortune's  golden  light, 
,  And  wanton  in  her  joyous  way ; 

But  thou  art  like  that  gentle  love, 

Which  blooms  when  friends  and  fame  have  pass'd, 
Towers  the  dark  wreck  of  hope  above, 

And  smiles  through  ruin  to  the  last." 

In  favoured  climates  arises  the  Anemone,  encircled  at 
the  bottom  with  a  spreading  robe,  and  rounded  at  the  top 
into  a  beautiful  dome.  In  its  loosely-flowing  mantle,  you 
may  observe  a  noble  negligence  ;  in  its  gently-bendingttifts 
the  nicest  symmetry.  This  may  be  termed  the  fine  gentle- 
man of  the  garden,  because  it  seems  to  possess  the  means 
of  uniting  simplicity  and  refinement,  of  reconciling  art  and 
ease.  The  same  month  has  the  merit  of  producing  the 
Ranunculus.  All  bold  and  graceful,  it  expands  the  riches 
of  its  foliage,  and  acquires  by  degrees  the  loveliest  enamel 
in  the  world.  As  persons  of  intrinsic  worth  disdain  the 
superficial  arts  of  recommendation  practised  by  fops,  so  this 
lordly  flower  scorns  to  borrow  any  of  its  excellencies  from 
powders  and  essences.  It  needs  no  such  attractions  to 
render  it  the  darling  of  the  curious,  being  sufficiently  enga- 
ging from  the  elegance  of  its  figure,  the  radiant  variety  of  its 
tinges,  and  a  certain  superior  dignity  of  aspect. 

JUNE. 

"  Now  have  young  April,  and  the  blue-eyed  May, 
Vanished  awhile,  and  lo !  the  glorious  June 
(While  Nature  ripens  in  his  burning  noon.) 
Gomes  like  a  young  inheritor." 


THE  BEAUTIES  OF  APRIL  AND  MAY*  177 

I  had  intended  to  confine  our  meditations  to  the  beauties 
of  April  and  May,  but  Nature  seems  to  improve  in  her 
operations.  Her  latest  strokes  are  the  most  masterly.  To 
crown  the  collection,  she  introduces  the  Carnation,  which 
captivates  our  eyes  with  a  noble  spread  of  graces,  and 
charms  another  sense  with  a  profusion  of  exquisite  odours. 
This  single  flower  has  centered  in  itself  the  perfection  of  all 
the  preceding.  The  moment  it  appears,  it  so  commands 
our  attention,  that  we  scarcely  regret  the  absence  of  the  rest. 

i 

"Maternal  Flora,  with  benignant  hand, 

Her  flowers  profusely  scatters  o'er  the  land  : 
These  deck  the  vallies  with  unnumber'd  hues, 
And  far  around  their  pregnant  sweets  diffuse ; 
The  broad  CARNATIONS,  gay  and  spotted  Pinks,     ,.  -» 
Are  shower 'd  profuse  along  the  rivers'  brinks." 

The  field  we  have  entered  is  so  extensive  and  so  enchant- 
ing, that  we  cannot  extricate  ourselves,  without  taking  a 
cursory  glance  at  the  airs  and  habits,  the  attitude  and  linea- 
ments, of  each  distinct  class.  See  the  PaBonia  of  China, 
splendid  and  beautifully  grand!  View  the  charming  Rose, 
delicate  and  languishingly  fair!  and  while  you  inhale  its 
balmy  sweetness,  you  will  be  constrained  to  admire  it,  not- 
withstanding its  thorny  appendages. 

"Rose!  thou  art  the  sweetest  flower 
That  ever  drank  the  amber  shower ; 
Rose  !  thou  art  the  fondest  child 
Of  dimpled  Spring !  the  wood-nymph  wild  ! 
Resplendant  Rose  !  the  flower  of  flowers, 
Whose  breath  perfumes  Olympus'  bowers  ; 
Whose  virgin  blush,  of  chasten'd  dye, 
Enchants  so  much  our  mental  eye." 

Behold  all  the  pomp  and  glory  of  the  parterre,  where 
Nature's  paint  and  perfume  do  wonders.  Some  rear  their 
heads  as  with  a  majestic  mien,  and  overlook,  Jike  sovereigns 
or  nobles,  the  whole  parterre.  Others  seem  more  modest 
in  their  aims,  and  advance  only  to  the  middle  stations ;  a 
genius  turned  for  heraldry  might  term  them  the  gentry  of 


178  THE  BEAUTIES  OP  APRIL  AND  MAY. 

the  border  ;  while  others,  free  from  all  aspiring  airs,  creep 
unambitiously  on  the  ground,  and  look  like  the  commonalty 
of  the  kind.  Some  are  intersected  with  elegant  stripes,  or 
studded  with  radiant  spots.  Some  affect  to  be  genteelly 
powdered,  or  neatly  fringed  ;  while  others  are  plain  in  their 
aspect,  unaffected  in  their  dress,  and  content  to  please  with 
a  naked  simplicity.  Some  assume  the  monarch's  purple ; 
some 'look  most  becoming  in  the  virgin's  white  ;  but  black, 
doleful  black,  has  no  admittance  into  the  wardrobe  of  Spring. 
The  weeds  of  mourning  would  be  a  manifest  indecorum, 
when  Nature  holds  an  universal  festival.  She  would  now 
inspire  none  but  delightful  ideas,  and  therefore  always  makes 
her  appearance  in  some  amiable  suit.  Here  stands  a  war- 
rior clad  with  crimson  ;  there  sits  a  magistrate  robed  in 
scarlet ;  and  yonder  strusts  a  pretty  fellow,  that  seems  to 
have  dipped  his  plumes  in  the  rainbow,  and  glitters  in  all 
the  gay  colours  of  that  resplendent  arch.  Some  rise  into  a 
curious  cup,  or  fall  into  a  set  of  beautiful  bells.  Others  spread 
themselves  in  a  swelling  tuft,  or  crowd  into  a  delicious 
cluster.  In  some  the  predominant  stain  softens  by  the 
gentlest  diminutions,  till  it  has  even  stolen  away  from  itself. 
The  eye  is  amused  at  the  agreeable  delusion,  and  we  wonder 
to  find  ourselves  insensibly  decoyed  into  quite  a  different 
lustre.  In  others  one  would  think  the  fine  tinges  were 
emulous  of  pre-eminence  ;  disdaining  to  mingle,  they  con- 
front one  another  with  the  resolution  of  rivals,  determined 
to  dispute  the  prize  of  beauty;  while  each  is  improved,  by  the 
opposition,  into  the  highest  vivacity  of  complexion. 

"Mrs.  Peeony  came  in  quite  late  in  a  heat, 

With  the  Ice-plant,  dew-spangled  from  forehead  to  feet ; 

Lobelia,  attired  like  a  queen  in  her  pride, 

And  Dahlias,  with  trimmings  new  furbish'd  and  dyed, 

And  the  Blue-bells,  and  Hare-bells  in  simple  array, 

With  all  their  Scotch  cousins  from  highland  and  brae, 

Ragged  Ladies  and  Marigolds  clustered  together, 

And  gossip'd  of  i.r  andal,  the  news,  and  the  weather ; 

What  dresses  were  worn  at  the  wedding  so  fine 

Of  sharp  Mrs.  Thistle,  and  sweet  Columbine." 


179 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON   THE 

CULTIVATION  OF  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED 

PLANTS. 


THESE  plants  exhibit  a  striking  variety  of  the  beauties  of 
Nature.  It  would  seem  as  if  every  change  she  was  capable 
of  forming,  was  included  in  the  radiant  colours  of  the  Tulip. 
Never  was  a  cup  either  painted  or  enamelled  with  such  a 
profusion  of  tints.  Its  stripes  are  so  glowing,  its  contrasts 
so  strong,  and  the  arrangement  of  them  both  so  elegant  and 
artful,  that  it  may,  with  propriety,  be  denominated  the 
reigning  beauty  of  the  garden  in  its  season.  The  Hyacinth 
is  also  an  estimable  flower  for  its  blooming  complexion,  as 
well  as  for  its  most  agreeable  perfume  and  variety. 

"The  Hyacinth,  purple,  white,  aud  blue, 
Which  flung  from  its  bells  a  sweet  peal  anew, 
Of  music  so  delicate,  soft,  intense,, 
It  was  felt  like  an  odour  within  the  sense." 

The  Double  Dahlia,  in  its  numerous  varieties,  is  incon- 
ceivably splendid.  It  is  only  about  forty  years  since  the 
first  of  these,  which  was  single,  was  introduced  into  Europe 
from  Mexico. 

Double  Dahlias  of  three  colours,  were  first  known  in  the 
year  1802,  since  that  time  the  varieties  have  so  increased, 
that  such  as  a  few  years  ago  were  considered  beautiful,  are 
now  thrown  away  to  give  place  to  the  more  splendid  sorts. 
I  have  good  authority  for  stating,  that  upwards  of  twenty 
thousand  seedlings  are  raised  yearly  in  England,  only  a 
few  of  which  are  introduced  into  the  collections  of  amateurs, 
to  take  the  place  of  such  old  sorts  as  may  from  time  to  time 
be  rejected.  This  is  done,  in  order  that  none  but  the  very 
choicest  be  retained  in  such  collections. 

In  some  gardens  in  Holland  they  cultivate;  by  distinct 
names,  about  eleFen  hundred  varieties  of  Tulips,  thirteen 


ISO       BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

hundred  of  Hyacinths,  and  six  hundred  of  Ranunculusea 
and  Anemones,  some  of  which  are  sold  as  high  as  sixty 
dollars  the  single  root.  It  is  stated  in  the  travels  of  Mr. 
Dutens,  of  his  having  known  ten  thousand  florins,  equal  to 
$4000,  refused  for  a  single  Hyacinth  ;  and  Dodsley  says, 
in  his  Annual  Register  for  1765,  that  the  Dutch  of  all 
ranks,  from  the  greatest  to  the  meanest,  during  tke  years 
from  1634  to  1637  inclusive,  neglected  their  business  to  en- 
gage in  the  Tulip  trade.  Accordingly  in  those  days,  the 
Viceroy  was  sold  for  £250,  the  Admiral  Lief  keens  £440, 
and  Semper  Augustus  at  from  £500  to  £1000  each ;  and 
also  that  a  collection  of  Tulips  was  sold  by  the  executors  of 
one  Wouter  Broekholsmentser  for  £9000.  It  is  stated  that 
in  one  city  in  Holland,  in  the  space  of  three  years,  they  had 
traded  for  a  million  sterling  in  Tulips. 

As  a  full  catalogue  of  all  the  varieties  of  bulbous  and 
tuberous-rooted  plants  would  occupy  a  number  of  pages, 
without  affording  much  general  interest,  I  shall  content 
myself  by  devoting  a  short  paragraph  in  describing  some  of 
each  particular  species,  which  will  be  accompanied  with 
directions  for  their  culture,  in  a  brief,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
explicit  manner. 

It  may  be  here  necessary  to  define  the  difference  between 
bulbous  and  tuberous  roots.  Those  designated  bulbous, 
have  skins  similar  to  Onions,  or  the  Allium  tribe;  and  tuber- 
ous roots  imply  all  such  as  produce  tubers  something  similar 
to  Potatoes. 

The  soil  for  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots  in  general  should 
be  light  and  yet  capable  of  retaining  moisture,  not  such  as 
is  liable  to  become  bound  up  by  heat,  or  that  in  consequence 
of  too  large  a  portion  of  sand,  is  likely  to  become  violently 
hot  in  Summer;  but  a  medium  earth  between  the  two  ex- 
tremes. As  many  city  gardens  do  not  contain  a  natural 
soil  of  any  depth,  a  suitable  compost  should  be  provided  in 
»uch  cases,  which  may  consist  of  equal  parts  of  sand,  loam, 
rotten  manure,  mould,  &c. 

When  ready,  the  beds  may  be  laid  out,  from  three  to  four 
feet  wide,  and  they  should  be  raised  two  or  three  inches 
above  the  level  of  the  walks,  which  will  give  an  opportunity 


BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLA3T3.  l8l 

for  all  superfluous  moisture  to  run  off.  Let  the  beds  thus 
formed  be  pulverized  to  the  depth  of  fifteen  or  eighteen 
inches;  and  at  the  time  of  planting,  let  a  small  quantity  of 
beach  sand  be  strewed  in  the  apertures  or  trenches,  prepared 
for  the  roots  to  grow  in,  both  before  and  after  placing  them, 
which  will  prove  beneficial. 

A  Southern  exposure,  dry  and  airy,  and  sheltered  from 
the  nordi-west  winds,  is  preferable  for  most  bulbs.  But 
Anemones  and  Ranunculuses  should  be  in  some  measure 
sheltered  from  the  intense  heat  of  noon. 

Beds  of  hardy  bulbous  and  tuberous  roots  should  be 
covered  on  the  approach  of  Winter  with  litter,  leaves,  straw, 
or  such  earth  as  is  formed  by  the  decay  of  leaves,  to  the 
depth  of  two  or  three  inches,  as  it  prevents  any  ill  effects 
which  a  severe  season  may  have  on  the  roots  ;  but  it  should 
be  carefully  raked  off  again  in  the  Spring. 

Bulbous  roots  in  general  should  be  taken  up  in  about  a 
month  or  six  weeks  after  the  bloom  is  exhausted;  the  foliage 
or  leaves  then  turn  yellow.  li'fine  warm  weather,  the  bulbs 
may  be  dried  on  the  b^ds  they  grew  on,  by  placing  them  in 
separate  rows,  being  careful  not  to  mix  tlu  several  varieties 
together.  To  prevent  such  an  accident,  labels  may  be 
afftxed  to,  or  placed  in  the  ground  opposite  each  bulb — 
they  will  ke<;p  much  better  for  being  dried  gradually  ;  to 
this  end,  a  little  dry  earth  may  be  shaken  over  them,  to 
screen  them  from  the  heat  of  the  sun.  If  it  should  rain 
before  they  get  dry,  take  them  in,  or  cover  them  with 
boards  ;  when  dry,  clear  them  of  the  fibres  and  stems,  and 
then  put  them  away  in  dry  sand  ;  or  wrapped  in  paper,  they 
may  be  kept  in  boxes  or  drawers  until  the  season  of  planting 
again  returns. 

The  tender  Tuberous  roots,  such  as  Dahlias,  and  the 
like,  will  luve  to  be  taken  up  before  the  cold  becomes  se- 
vere. As  the  Dahlia  exhibits  its  flowers  in  all  their  splen- 
dour until  nipped  by  the  frost,  the  roots  ought,  in  the  event 
Of  a  very  sudden  attack,  to  be  secured  from  its  blighting 
effects.  They  are  not  apt  to  keep  well,  if  taken  up 
before  they  are  ripened  ;  the  tops  should  therefore,  be  cut 
down  as  soon  as  they  have  done  flowering,  and  the  ground 

10 


182       BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED  PLANTS. 

covered  around  the  roots,  with  dung  or  litter  ;  this  will 
enable  them  to  ripen  without  being  injured  by  frost;  and  in 
about  a  week  after  being  cut  down,  or  on  appearance  of 
severe  weather,  they  should  be  dug  up  and  packed  in  dry 
sand,  and  then  stowed  away  in  a  dry  place  out  of  the  reach 
of  frost.  The  temperature  suited  to  keep  greenhouse  plants 
will  preserve  them  in  good  order.  Some  people  complain 
of  the  difficulty  of  keeping  Dahlia  roots  through  theWinter. 
I  am  of  opinion  that  they  are  often  killed  from  being  taken 
up  before  they  are  ripe,  and  then  put  in  a  confined  damp 
place ;  or  are  by  some,  perhaps,  subjected  to  the  other  ex- 
treme, and  dried  to  a  husk.  I  keep  mine  on  shelves  in  the 
greenhouse,  and  seldom  lose  one  in  a  hundred.  If  it  be  an 
object  with  the  cultivator  to  have  the  names  perpetuated  from 
year  to  year,  each  plant  should  have  a  small  label  affixed  to 
the  old  stalk,  by  means  of  small  brass  or  copper  wire,  as 
twine  is  very  apt  to  get  rotten. 

Cape  Bulbs,  and  such  tuberous  roots  as  are  cultivated  in 
pots,  on  account  of  their  tenderness,  should  be  kept  dry 
after  the  foliage  is  decayed,  until  within  about  a  month  of 
their  period  of  regerminating,  at  which  time  they  should,  after 
having  been  deprived  of  their  surplus  offsets,  be  repotted  in 
good  fre«h  earth. 

There  are  some  descriptions  of  bulbous  and  tuberous 
roots  that  need  not  be  taken  up  oftener  than  once  in  two  or 
three  years,  and  then  only  to  deprive  them  of  the  young 
offsets,  and  to  manure  the  ground.  These  will  be  described 
hereafter  under  their  different  heads. 

In  the  articles  which  follow,  I  have  named  the  preferable 
season  for  planting  the  various  kinds  of  bulbous  and  tuberous 
roots  ;  but  as  some  bulbs  will  keep  in  good  condition  several 
months,  there  can  be  no  objection  to  retaining  such  out  of 
the  ground,  to  suit  any  particular  purpose  or  convenience. 


183 
DIRECTIONS 

FOR    THE 

CULTIVATION  OF  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS-ROOTED 

PLANTS- 

AMARYLLISES. 

OP  this  genus  of  flowering  bulbs,  there  are  about  eighty 
species,  and  upwards  of  one  hundred  varieties ;  they  are 
natives  of  South  America,  and  in  Europe  are  generally 
kept  in  the  hot-house ;  some  of  the  varieties  are  hybrids, 
produced  by  cultivation  ;  these  succeed  very  well  in  the 
greenhouse,  and  in  this  country  we  frequently  have  very 
perfect  flowers  in  the  borders.  A  few  of  the  choicest 
varieties  are  as  follows : 

Amaryllis  Aulica,  or  Crowned  Amaryllis,  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful ;  it  produces  four  flowers,  about  seven  inches 
in  diameter,  on  an  erect  stem,  about  two  feet  and  a  half 
high,  with  six  petals  of  green,  crimson,  and  fine  transparent 
red  colours. 

A.  Ballota,  produces  three  or  four  rich  scarlet  flowers 
on  the  stem,  each  about  five  inches  in  diameter ;  there  are 
two  or  three  varieties  of  this  species,  .all  beautiful. 

A.  Johnsoniensis.  The  stem  of  this  variety  rises  about 
two  feet,  and  exhibits  four  beautiful  scarlet  flowers,  with  a 
white  streak  in  the  centre  of  each  petal,  each  flower  about 
six  inches  diameter.  It  sometimes  produce  two  stems. 

A.  Longifolia,  or  Crinum  Capense,  is  perfectly  hardy  ;  it 
flowers  in  large  umbels  of  a  pink  colour,  inclining  to  white, 
and  is  a  good  garden  variety. 

Amaryllis  formosissima,  or  Jacobean  Lily,  produces  a 
flower  of  great  beauty ;  although  a  low-priced  plant,  it 
throws  out  gracefully  its  glittering  crimson-coloured  petals, 
which  have  a  brilliancy  almost  too  intense  for  the  eye  to  rest 
upon. 

The  A.  Lutea,  produces   its   brighj   yellow  flowers   in 


184 


ANEMONES  AND  RANUNCULUSES. 


October,  in  the  open  air ;  but  the  bulb  requires  a  little  pro- 
tection in  the  Winter,  or  it  may  perish. 

The  most  suitable  soil  for  Amaryllises  is  a  clean  new 
earth,  taken  from  under  fresh  grass  sods,  mixed  with  sand 
and  leaf  mould  ;  the  latter  ingredient  should  form  about  a 
third  of  the  whole,  and  the  sand  about  a  sixth.  Some  of  the 
varieties  may  be  planted  in  pots  during  the  month  of  April, 
and  others  will  do  very  well  in  the  open  ground,  if  planted 
early  in  May,  in  a  sunny  situation.  The  bulb  should  not 
be  set  more  than  half  its  depth  in  the  ground  ;  as,  if  planted 
too  deep,  it  will  not  bloom  ;  the  plant  deriving  its  nourish- 
ment only  from  the  fibres.  When  the  bulbs  have  done 
flowering,  such  as  are  in  pots  should  be  watered  very 
sparingly,  so  that  they  may  be  perfectly  ripened,  which  will 
cause  them  to  shoot  stronger  in  the  ensuing  season,  and 
those  in  the  ground  should  be  taken  up,  and  preserved 
in  sand  or  paper. 


ANEMONES  AND  RANUNCULUSES. 

These  are  medium,  or  half-hardy  roots,  producing  beau- 
tiful little  flowers  of  various  hues,  and  are  highly  deserving 
of  cultivation.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a  fresh,  well 
pulverized,  loamy  soil,  enriched  with  cow  dung.  If  planted 
in  the  garden,  the  beds  ought  not  to  be  raised  above  one  inch 
higher  than  the  alleys,  and  the  surface  should  be  level,  as  it 
is  necessary  for  the  prosperity  of  these  plants,  rather  to 
retain  than  to  throw  off  moisture.  The  plants  will  generally 
survive  our  Winters  ;but  it  is  always  safest  to  plant  them  in 
such  a  manner  that  a  temporary  frame  of  boards  can  be 
placed  over  them  when  the  weather  sets  in  severe  ;  and  if 
they  are  to  be  shaded  while  in  flower,  the  posts  intended  for 
the  awning  may  be  fixed  in  the  ground  at  the  same  time  ; 
these  will  serve  to  nail  the  boards  to,  and  thus  answer  two 
purposes. 

Anemones  and  Ranunculuses  may  be  planted  during 
October  or  November,  in  drills  two  inches  deep,  and  six 
inches  apart ;  the  roots  should  be  placed  claws  downwards, 


CROCUSES   AND  CROWN  IMPERIAL.  185 

about  four  inches  distant  from  each  other,  and  covered  up, 
leaving  the  bed  quite  level.  The  awning  need  not  be 
erected  over  the  beds  until  they  come  into  bud,  which  will 
be  early  in  May  ;  the  extreme  heat  of  the  American  climate 
is,  however,  unfavourable  to  the  perfect  developement  of 
their  beautiful  blossoms  in  ordinary  seasons,  even  when 
shaded. 


CROCUSES. 

These  are  hardy  little  bulbs,  said  to  be  natives  of 
Switzerland.  There  are  in  all  about  fifty  varieties  of  this 
humble,  yet  beautiful  plant,  embracing  a  great  variety 
of  hues  and  complexions,  and  their  hardiness,  and  earliness 
in  flower,  offer  a  strong  motive  for  their  cultivation.  The 
bulbs  may  be  planted  in  October  or  November,  in  rows 
about  six  inches  from  the  edgings  ;  if  in  beds,  they  may  be 
placed  in  ranks  of  distinct  colours,  about  four  inches  apart, 
and  from  one  to  two  deep,  which  will  afford  to  their  admirers 
considerable  amusement  and  gratification,  and  that  at  a 
very  early  season.  They  are  generally  in  full  perfection 
early  in  April 


CROWJS  IMPERIAL. 

This  is  a  species  of  the  genus  Fritillaria^  of  which  there 
are  about  twenty  species  and  varieties,  chiefly  natives  of 
Persia.  These  squamose  bulbs  produce  tall  luxuriant  stems, 
embellished  with  green  glossy  foliage,  and  flowers  of  various 
hues  ;  but  there  are  only  a  few  of  the  most  curious  cultivated, 
perhaps  on  account  of  their  odour,  which  to  some  persons 
is  disagreeable.  They  are,  however,  very  hardy,  and 
produce  singular  and  showy  flowers  in  April  and  May, 
suited  to  make  variety  in  the  flower  borders,  in  which  thev 
may  be  planted  in  August  and  September,  from  three  to 
four  inches  deep  ;  they  need  not  be  taken  up  every  year  as 
other  bulbs,  and  when  they  are,  which  may  be  about  every 

16* 


186  COLCHICUM,    CYCLAMEN  AND  DOUBLE  DAHLIA. 

third  year,  they  ought  not  to  be  retained  too  long  out  of  the 
ground  before  they  are  again  replanted. 


COLCHICUM. 

This  curious  little  bulb,  being  planted  in  the  month 
of  June,  about  two  inches  deep,  produces  its  flowers  in 
October,  it  then  dies,  without  leaving  any  external  ap- 
pearance of  seeds  ;  they,  however,  lie  buried  in  the  bulb  all 
the  Winter,  and  in  Spring  produce  a  stalk  with  seeds,  which 
get  ripe  by  the  first  of  June,  just  in  time  to  plarit  for  flowering 
in  the  ensuing  Autumn.  How  wonderful  are  the  provision* 
of  nature  ! 


CYCLAMEX. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  Persian  Cyclamen  which 
are  worthy  of  cultivation  in  pots  ;  the  vareties,  Coum  and 
Persicum,  will  bloom  in  a  greenhouse,  or  warm  room,  from 
January  to  April,  if  planted  in  a  good  light  compost  early 
in  September.  The  foliage  of  these  plants  is  of  a  dark 
green  velvet  colour;  and  the  flowers  of  the  variety  Coum 
are  of  a  dark  crimson  colour  ;  those  of  the  variety  Persicum 
nre  of  a  delicate  French  white,  tipped  with  pink,  and  their 
fragrance  is  similar  to  that  of  the  wild  rose. 


DOUBLE  DAHLIA. 

This  may  with  propriety  be  denominated  one  of  the  most 
important  perennial  tuberous-rooted  plants  that  can  be 
introduced  into  a  garden,  and  from  the  circumstance  of  its 
having  become  s  >  fashionable  of  late  years,  I  have  felt 
anxious  to  furnish  in  this  work,  a  catalogue  of  all  the 
choicest  varieties  attainable  ;  I  therefore  applied  to  Mr.  G. 
C.  Thorburn,  who,  from  a  regular  correspondence  with  con- 
noisseurs, both  in  England  and  America,becomes  acquainted 


DOUBLE  DAHLIA  167 

with  all  the  most  beautiful  ami  rare  varieties.  He  ha* 
kindly  furnished  a  list  and  description  of  about  one  hun- 
dred; including  the  choicest  seedlings  of  1833  anvj  1839, 
which  will  be  cultivated  for  the  first  time  in  America,  in  his 
garden  at  Astoria,  1849  ;  plants  from  which  will  be  for  sale  at 
No.  11  John  street.  To  these  I  have  added  about  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  varieties,  most  of  wh  ch  I  have  had  under 
cultivation  in  my  own  garden,  and  which  iiny  be  justly 
denominated  pre-eminent. 

In  making  this  selection,  several  superb  varieties  are 
oinittedr  not  because  they  are  undervalued,  but  for  the  sake 
of  brevity,  winch  in  a  work  of  this  kind  must  be  consulted. 
Those  marked  thus  f  are  native  American  varieties.  Those 
marked  thus  *  obtained  the  greatest  number  of  premiums 
at  the  various  Floricultural  and  Horticultural  exhibitions  in 
Great  Britain,  as  well  as  in  our  own  country.  There  arc, 
perhaps,  a  hundred  more  in  this  catalogue  not  far  beneath 
thsm,  but  none  are  marked  except  those  which  from  having 
been  tested  in  this  climate,  can  with  confidence  be  recom- 
mended as  being  free  and  perfect  bloomers.  The  choicest 
seedlings  of  1833  and  9,  and  which  have  been  purchased  in 
England  at  from  fifteen  shillings  to  five  pounds  sterling  each, 
are  marked  thus  §.  It  may  be  necessary  to  observe,  that 
many  of  our  choice  old  varieties,  as  well  as  several  of  the 
new  ones  hereinafter  described, hare  not  been  offered  in  com- 
petition at  public  exhibitions  ;  these  are,  therefore,  not  to  be 
undervalued  for  want  of  the  star  or  asterisk,  and  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  the  brief  description  given  of  the  different  shades, 
will  be  sufficient  to  govern  amateurs  in  their  choice. 

As  much  depends  on  the  climate,  soil  and  situation  in  which 
Dahlias  are  cultivated  ;  and  as  the  descriptions  which  follow 
have  been  given  by  various  persons,  in  different  parts  of 
England  as  well  as  America,  whose  soils  and  situations  are 
different,  the  height  of  these  plants  may  vary  a  foot  or  more 
from  our  estimate,  when  planted  in  one  uniform  soil  and 
situation. 


188 

CATALOGUE 

OF 

31 A  S  o 


t  Denotes  American  Seedlings.   *  Free  Blocmers.    §  New  Tarietiet.        HEIGHT 

IN    FEET. 

*  Acme  of  Perfection,  (Harris's*)  white,  with  crimson  edge  -      4  to  5 
Ada  Byron,  shaded  rose,  -      4  to  5 

*  Addison,  puce,  beautifully  shaded  with  crimson       -  4  to  5 
Adonis,  (Widnalfs,)  a  free-blooming  fringed  scarlet    -  4  to  5 

*  Adventure,  (Towards,}  extra  fine  purple    -  4  to  5 

*  Agamemnon,  (WidnalVs,)  rich  ruby,  crimson,  a  fine  bloomer    5  to  6 
^  Alba  Elegans,  pure  white,  elegant  shaped  flower      -  4  to  5 
§  Alciope,  (Girling''s,)  fine  rosy  purple  -      4  to  5 
Alpha,  (Simraomfs,)  fine  scarlet  crimson  -      6  to  8 
Angelina,  white,  beautifully  edged  with  lilac     -  4  to  5 
§  Autiope,  (Case's,)  beautiful  lilac,  fine.shape  -      5  to  6 

*  Apollo,  (Widnall's,)  fine  dark  scarlet,  cupped  petals  -      4  to  5 

*  Ariel,  (Inwoed's,)  white,  edged  with  lilac       -  4  to  5 

*  Aurora,  (Maule's,)  white,  striped  with  crimson        -  4  to  5 
Australia,  (Foster's)  superb  shaded  crimson      -  4  to  5 
§  Banks  of  the  Tyne,  vivid  scarlet         -  4  to  5 
Battle  Rival,  bright  yellow,  large  flower  -      5  to  6 

*  Beauty,  (Brown's,)  exquisite  lilac      -  4  to  5 
Beauty  of  Bath,  (Bartlctt's,')  purple  and  cream  striped  -      4  to  5 

* of  Bedford,  shaded  purple,  and  crimson        -  4  to  5 

of  Camberwell,  rosy  lilac,  a  free-bloomer      -  5  to  6 

of  Cornwall,  purple,  tipped  with  white          -  6  to  8 

of  Dulwich,  yellow,  mottled  with  brown      -  5  to  6 

§  of  Hyde  Vale,  maroon,  striped  with  lilac      -  4  to  5 

*  '        of  Kingscote,  white,  tipped  with  crimson     -  3  to  4 

of  Lullingstone,  dark  puce,  large  flower        -  4  to  5 

*  of  the  North,  (Hedley's,)  superb  purple        -  4  to  5 

*  of  Perry  Hill,  mottled  rose  and  blush  -      5  to  6 

t   of  Salem,  white,  tinted  with  rosy  pink  -      4  to  5 

*  of  Waterford,  carnation  striped  •  4  to  5 

§  of  the  WestRiding,  (Evans's.)  carmine,  orange  mottled     4  to  5 

*  Berkshire  Champion,  crimson  maroon,  globular  shape  -      4  to  5 

*  Bianca,  (Lownds's,)  white,  good  form  -      4  to  5 
Birmingham  Victor,  (Hodge's,)  fine  crimson,  cupped  petals  -      4  to  5 
t  Blandina,  good  white  -      3  to  4 

*  Bontishall,  dark  maroon         -  5  to  6 

*  Bowling  Green  Rival,  dark  ruby,  cupped  petals       -.  -      5  to  6 

*  Bride  of  Abydos,  white,  sometimes  tinted  with  purple    .  -      5  to  6 


DAHLIA    CATALOGUE.                 .  189 

f   Dtnot«»  American  Seedling.  *  Free  Bloomert.    $  New  Varietie*.        HEIGHT 

IS    FEET. 

Bride,  (Harding's,)  white,  with  purple  spots  -  -      5  to  6 

$  British  Queen,  (King's,)  light  blush,  mottled  with  blood  red      4  to  5 

Burgundy,  dark  velvet  maroon,  finely  cupped              -  -      5  to  6 

*  Calliope,  extra  fine  ruby  scarlet         -                        -  -      5  to  6 
Cambridge  Hero,  (Widnolls,)  fine  dark  maroon          -  6  to  7 
Camarine,  yellow,  tipped  with  red        -                         •  4  to  5 
%  Candidate,  (Smiths,)  rich  claret,  striped  with  purple  -      4  to  5 
Cedo  Nulli,  (Poihtcary's,)  yellow,  striped  with  red      -  -      3  to  4 

*  Champion  of  England,  rich  maroon  -                         -  5  to  6 

*  Champion,  (Jfrells*s.)  while,  tipped  with  lilac             -  5  to  6 
Cheltenham  Rival,  dark  shaded  crimson  -      5  to  6 
Clara,  (Seaman's.)  superb  white             -            -            -  4  to  5 

*  Cleopatra,  extra  fine  blush  white      -            -            -  4  to  5 
§  Climax,  (Jeffrie's,)  dark  crimson,  finely  formed        -  4  to  5 

*  Clio.  (Jridnall's,)  rich  purple,  always  perfect  -      4  to  5 
Clio  Perfecta,  buff,  tipped  with  purple  -      5  to  6 
"  Colossus,  (Brown's,)  beautiful  crimson,  extra  large  flower        5  to  6 
t  Competitor,  (Smith's,)  blueish  purple,  beautiful       •  4  to  5 
f  Comte  de  Paris,  fine  canary  yellow  superb  flower  -      4  to  5 
Conductor,  (WidnaWs,}  splendid  purple          -            -  3  to  4 

*  Conqueror  of  Europe,(E//>/mistoHeV)blush,shadedwithpink      4  to  5 
Conqueror,  (Gamier1  s.)  rich  velvet  crimson     -            -  4  to  5 
Conqueror   (Chandlers,)  fine,  shaded  purple  -  5  to  6 

*  Conservative,  (Seaman's  )  bright  ruby  scarlet           -  5  to  6 
4  Constantino  the  Great,  light  chastely  variegated      -  4  to  5 
$  Contender,  (Girlings.)  fine  shaded  purple,  cupped  -      4  to  5 
Contender,  (Stanford's)  rich  maroon,  crimson  margin  -      5  to  0 
Coronation,  (Elliots,)  white,  laced  with  purple  -      5  to  6 

*  Coronation,  (Elphinstone'f,)  beHiitiful  rosy  pink      -  4  to  5 

*  Corinne,  (Broirn's,)  white,  curiously  veined  with  crimson  -      3  to  4 

*  Coronet  superb  dark  puce,  large  flower       -  4  to  5 
Coriolanus,  (Dray's,)  extra  dark  crimson        -  6  to  7 
Countess  of  Burlington,  (Skirting's,)  superb  white  -  3  to  4 

of  Dunmore,  white,  with  purple  tips             -  4  to  5 

of  Liverpool,  beautiful  shaped  scarlet           -  6  to  8 

*  of  Mansfield,  (Hudson's.)  extra  fine  white    -  4  to  5 

*  of  Radnor,  mottled  lilac,  and  carmine           -  4  to  5 

of  Sheffield,  fine  rosy  purple              -            -  6  to  7 

of  Torrington,  blush,  edged  with  lilac          -  4  to  5 

of  VVemyss,  peach  blossom,  edged  with  purple  -      5  to  6 

Criterion,  (Douglas's,)  white,  laced  with  bright  lilac    -  -      5  to  6 
Crcesus,  yellow,  tipped  with  purple,  beautiful  whenat  perfection     4  to  5 

*  Daphne,  (H'idnalls,)  delicate  blush  -  4  to  5 
Defiance",  (Haricood's,)  fine  purple,  round  cupped  petals  -      5  to  6 
Denniss'i,  fine  ruby  purple       -            -           -            -  5  to  R 


190  DAHLIA  CATALOGUE. 

t  Denotes  American  Seedlings.  *   Fr«e  Bloomers.  §  New  Varieties.       HEIGHT 

IN    FEIT. 

*  Desdemona,(5r0Hm's,)  white,  laced  with  rose,  showy  flower  4  to  5 
t  Diadem,  (Dunlap's,)  fine  bright  scarlet         -            -  4  to  5 

*  Diadem  of  Flora,  (Girling's,)  extra  fine  ruby  scarlet            -  5  to  6 
Diadem  of  Perfection,  (Taylor's.}  rosy  crimson,  cupped  petals  4  to  5 
Diana,  (Elphin  stone's,)  beautiful  crimson  and  yellow    -  4  to  5 
Dictator,  ( Wells' s,)  extra  large  scarlet  -            -            -  5  to  6 

*  Dido,  (Young's,)  fine  rosy  lilac                       -            -  4  to  5 
$  Diomede,  rich  maroon  and  purple,  shaded    -  4  to  5 
$  Donna  Anna,  (Cook's,)  splendid  dark  rose    -            -  4  to  5 

*  Don  Carlos,  beautiful  crimson,  fine  shaped  flower     -  4  to  5 
Duchess  of  Bedford,  (Widnall's,)  bright  scarlet            -  4  to  5 

of  Buccleugh,  (Cormack's,)  sulphur,  pink  margin    -  4  to  5 

of  Kent,  (Mitchell's,)  white,  edged  with  lake            -  4  to  5 

of  Montrose,  (Drat/'s,)  mottled  rose,  yellow,  crimson  4  to  5 

*  of  Portland,  (Tillary's,)  blush,  purple  edge             -  3  to  4 

*  •  of  Richmond,  (Elphinstone's,)  orange  and  pink        -  4  to  5 

*  of  Sutherland,  (SLirving's,)  blush,  tipped  with  pink  6  to  7 

*  Duke  of  Bedford,  (Dennis's,)  large  crimson  maroon            -  5  to  6 

of  Bedford,  (Newby's,)  dark  purple  -  6  to  7 

t  of  Richmond,  carmine  shaded  with  lilac,  (splendid)  4  to  5 

t  Dwarf  Scarlet,  (Nealc's,)  a  prolific  and  free  bloomer           -  3  to  4 

Earlof  Tankerville,  extra  fine  scarlet    -                         -  4  to  5 

§  Egyptian  King,  rose,  delicately  tipped  with  bronze              -  4  to  5 

*  Egyptian  Prince,  fine  glossy  plum  colour      -  4  to  5 
$  Eliza,  (Stanford's,)  fine  yellow,  with  red  centre        *  3  to  4 
4  Elizabeth,  (Trentfield's,)  blush,  mottled,  edged  with  crimson  4  to  5 
Empress,  (Dennis's,)  yellow,  edged  with  purple                       -  5  to  6 
England's  Defiance,  (Miller's,)  red  and  white,  striped             -  3  to  4 

*  Essex  Rival,  (Sorrel's,)  fine  dark  purple        -  4  to  5 

*  Etonia,  (Keeler's,)  extra  fine  salmon  colour,  cupped  petals  4  to  5 
Euphernea,  (Mollmeux's,)  extra  fine  purple    -  5  to  6 

*  Eva,  (Foster  s,)  fine  blush  white,  cupped  petals        -  3  to  4 

*  Exemplar,  (Widnall's,)  extra  large  white,  always  perfect     -  5  to  6 

*  Exquisite;  (Girling's,)  superb  salmon  colour,  cupped  petals  5  to  6 
§  Fire  Ball  (SquibVs)  vivid  scarlet.  4  to  5 

*  Fisherton  Champion  (Squibb's)  dark  crimson  4  to  5 

*  Formosa  (Girling's)  fine  buff,  tipped  with  rose                        -  5  to  6 
$  Gazelle,  white,  edged  similar  to  Peach  blossom.         -  4  to  5 
t  General  Harrison  (Bueland  Wilson's)  fine  scarlet.     -            -  4  to  5 

*  Glory,  (Douglas's)  extra  large  bright  scarlet.                          -  5  to  6 
$  Glory  of  Chieveley,  superb  scarlet.                                       .  4  to  5 
Gloria  Mundi,  light  sulphur  yellow.       -  4  to  5 

*  Glory  of  Plymouth,  (Rendle's)  white,  tipped  with  purple.  -  4  to  5 

*  Glory  of  the  West,  (Dray's)  scarlet  ball-flower  richly  cupped.  6  to  7 

*  Gold  Finder,  (Dray's)  bright  primrose  yellow,  cupped.        -  4  to  5 


DAHLIA    CATALOGUE.             .  191 

t   Dwotet  American  Seedling.    *  Fre«  Bloomer*.    §  New  Varieties.        HEIGHT 

IN    FECT. 

*  Golden  Sovereign,  (Hedley's)  superb  golden  yellow  -      5  to  6 
§  Grace  Darling,  or  Heroine  of  the  North,  light,  lavender  margin  4  to  5 
Grand  Falconer,  beautiful  light  crimson.  -      5  to  6 

*  Grandis,  extra  large,  ruby  purple       -            -            -  -      5  to  6 

*  Heathergreen  Rival,  sulphur  yellow                           -  -      3  to  4 
Helena,  (MecketCs)  fine  blush  white     "-                        -  -      4  to  5  • 

*  Helen  of  Troy,  beautiful  light  rosy  blush,  perfect  form  -      4  to  5 
f  Henry  Clay,  superb  scarlet     -                         -            -  4  to  5 
Herinione,  (Wells'}  white,  tipped  with  purple     -  6  to  7 
Hero,  (Foster's)  dark  red,  cupped  petals                        -  4  to  5 
§  Hero  of  Nottingham,  maroon,  edged  with  rose         -  4  to  5 

of  Seven  Oaks,  beautiful  rosy  crimson  -  4  to  5 

t of  Tippecanoe,  (Hancock's}  ruby  purple  -  4  to  5 

* of  Wakefield,  superb  rosy  crimson  -  5  to  6 

of  Wymbourn,  plum  colour,  fine  show  flower  -  4  to  5 

Honourable  Mrs.  Ashley,  -(Brown's)  white  with  blood  tip  -  3  to  4 

Stewart  Wortley,  fine  rosy  purple  -  3  to  4 

*•  Hope,  (Nevill's)  noval  rose  colour,  splendid  form  -  4  to  5 

Horatio,  (Smith's)  yellow,  margined  with  rosy  crimson  -  3  to  4 

*  Horatio.  (Widnalls)  bright  purple,  cupped    -  5  to  6 

*  Horticulturist,  (Elphinstone's)  superb  rosy  lilac  •      4  to  5 
Incomparable  White,  (Wlieder's)  pure  white   -  5  to  6 
Independent,  (Girling' s)  superb  yellow  -      5  to  fi 
§  Ingestric  Rival,  fine  lilac,  exquisite  form        -  4  to  5 
Innovator,  (Wells 's)  yellow  edged  with  red,  beautiful  when  perfect  4  to  5 
Jealous  Wife,  yellow,  with  cupped  petals.        -  4  to  5 
t  Jessie  Thorburn,  (Thorium's)  white,  edged  with  pink  -      5  to  6 
Joan  of  Arc,  (Catleugh's)  beautiful  pink  -      4  to  5 
Julia,  (Brown's)  nankeen  colour  -      4  to  5 

*  Julia,  (Clarke's") sulphur  tipped  with  crimson  -      4  to  5 
Juliet,  (WidnaWs)  fine  cupped  rose       -  4  to  5 
Juno,  (Girling' s)  rich  rosy  purple        -  4  to  5 

*  Kingscote  Rival,  beautiful  light  rose  -  5  to  fi 
King  of  Beauties,  (Elphinstone's)  light  with  crimson  edge  -      4  to  5 
King  Otho,  ruby  rose  or  lake  colour,  large  flower  -      5  to  (i 

of  the  Whites,  pure  white,  flowers  generally  perfect  -      4  to  5 

of  the  Yellows,  (Elphinstone's')  fine  cupped  petals  -      4  to  5 

La  Carnation,  (PawTs)  white  flaked  with  rosy  crimson  -      3  to  4 

*Lady  Anne,  (Hoptcood's~)  white,  laced  with  lilac  3  to  4 

-Dartmouth,  (Widnatt's)  white,  edged  with  lilac  -  -      5  to  6 

§ Deacon,  clear  creamy  lemon,  veined  with  rose    -  4  to  5 

Fordwich,  lilac,  mottled  and  striped  with  blush  -  5  to  C 

King,  fine  delicate  rose    -  3  to  4 

Kinnaird,  (Kidd's)  rosy  lilac        -  -      4  to  5 

$—  Maclean,  light  ground,  crimson  margin,  superb  flower  -      4  to  £ 


J92  DAHLIA  CATALOGUE 

t  Denotes  American  feedlinga.  *  Free  Bloomtrs.    §  Kew  Vaiitti«s.  HEIGHT 

IN    FEET. 

Lady  Mallet,  (Fawcetfs)  white,  laced  with  rose  -      3  to  4 

Molyneux,  red,  sometimes  striped  and  tipped  with  white      4  to  5 

Northampton,  white,  tinted  with  purple  -      4  to  5 

* Powlet,  bright  lilac,  perfect  formed  flower        -  4  to  5 

* Sonde  s  (Cox's)  pale  yellow  edged  with  rose      -  4  to  5 

Webster,  extra  fine  crimson          -  4  to  5 

§ Wenmaii,  light  claret,  finely  cupped        -  4  to  5 

Lady  of  the  Lake,  (Wells' s~)  white,  tinted  with  rosy  purple  •      4  to  5 

$  Lancashire  Witch,  white,  edged  with  purple  -      4  to  5 

*  Lavinia,  pure  white,  edged  with  lilac  -      5  to  6 

*  Letitia,  (Wells'}  yellow  and  brown,  fine  shape  -      3  to  4 
§  Lewisham  Rival,  white,  elegantly  cupped      -  -      4  to  5 
Liberty,  purple  plum  colour,  a  free  bloomer     -  4  to  5 
Lilac  Perfection,  (Harding  s)  beautiful  when  at  maturity  -      5  to  (5 
$  Lilac  Perfection,  (Ingrain's)  extra  fine  form  and  colour  -      4  to  5 
§  Lilac  Unique,  a  fine  flower  and  perfect  bloomer        -  4  to  5 
Lord  Bath,  (Wheeler's)  large  crimson  purple     -  4  to  5 

Byron,  (Smith's)  fine  bright  crimson       -  5  to  6 

Morpeth  (Evans's)  dark  puce,  finely  cupped    -  4  to  5 

Russell,  bright  scarlet  ball,  a  free  bloomer  -      4  to  5 

*  Lovely  Ann,  (Dickerson's)  blush  white,  tinted  with  lilac  -      4  to  5 
§  Lucina,  (Spencer's)  fine  lilac,  edged  with  crimson     -  4  to  5 
*M  adonna,  (Stanford's)  fine  rosy  lilac  -  -      4  to  5 
Man  of  Honour,  (Harding' s}  brilliant  rose         -  -      5  to  6 
•Marchioness  of  Lansdowne,  blush,  with  purple  edge  -  -      4  to  5 
Maria  Edgeworth,  primrose,  tipped  with  rose  -  4  to  5 

*  Marquis  of  Lothian,  (Goodall*)  superb  rosy  crimson  -      3  to  4 

* of  Northampton,  (Elphin  stone's)  mottled  ruby  -      5  to  6 

«  Marshal  Soult,  (Elphinstone's)  lilac  and  red   -  3  to  4 

§  Marshal  Soult,  (Steicart's)  mottled  rose,  extra  fine    -  4  to  5 
Mary,  (Dodd's)  white,  laced  with  rosy  lilac,  beautiful  at  maturity  5  to  6 

Mary  (Wdler's)  light  purple,  cupped  -      4  to  5 

Mary  of  Burgundy, (Calleugh's)  carmine  and  white      -  4  to  5 

*  Mary  Queen  of  Scots,  white  margined  with  purple  -  «      5  to  6 
§  Masterpiece,  (fVilmer's,)  white,  tipped  with  lilac    -  3  to  4 
§  Matchless, (Wetter' s}  superb  carmine,  well-formed  flower  -      4  to  5 

*  Mazeppa,  (Widnairs.)  rich  ruby  purple     -  4  to  5 
Medusa,  (Wells's  )  white  and  pink,  beautifully  mottled  -      4  to  5 
Metropolitan  Calypso,  splendid  rosy  blush       -  5  to  6 
Metropolitan  Perfection,  dark  velvet,  crimson  ball-flower  -      6  to  7 

*  Metropolitan  Yellow,  extra  fine         -  4  to  5 

*  Middlesex  Rival,  extra  fine,  dark  purple        -  •      5  to  6 
Miss  Broadwood,  delicate  white  •      4  to  5 
§  IV!  iss  Johnston,  fine  rose,  beautiful  shape       -            •  4  to  5 

*  Miss  Scroope,  (Hzdley's)  fine  rose,  cupped  •      5  to  6 


DAHLIA    CATALOGUE  193 

t   Denotes  American  Seedlings.  *  Free  Bloomers.    $  New  Varieties.  HEIGHT 

IX   FEET. 

*  Miss  Wilson,  white,  tipped  with  scarlet        -  5  to  6 
Miss  Wortley,  lilac  and  buff    -                          .  4  to  5 
§  Model  of  Perfection,  (Neville's)  extra  dark  maroon  -      3  to  4 
t  Mrs.  Bucknall,  white,  delicately  edged  with  lilac        -  4  to  5 
Mrs.  Cullis,  (Hodge 's)  fine  rosy  crimson          -  4  to  5 
Mrs.  Davies,  (Norman  s)  white,  edged  with  purple      -  4  to  5 
t*  Mrs.  Rushton,  (Buist's)  blush  white,  finely  cupped  -      4  to  5 

*  Mrs.  Wilkinson,  extra  fine  blush" white          -            -  5  to  6 
Muugo  Park,  (Young's)  light  crimson              -            -  4  to  5 

*  Napoleon  (Smith's)  dark  crimson,  excellent  formed  flower        5  to  6 
t*  Neale's  Golden  Fleece,  splendid  yellow      -            -  4  to  5 
Neil,  Dr.  (Smiths)  dark  maroon,  free  bloomer           -  4  to  5 

*  Ne  Plus  Ultra,  (Widnall's,)  fine  shaped,  purple  and  crimson  3  to  4 
Newick  Park  Rival,  (Slater's.)  glossy  purple  -      4  to  5 

*  Newick  Rival,  (ManieWs,)  beautiful  ruby  rose        -  5  to  6 

*  Nimrod,  (WidnalVs?)  fine  dark  crimson        -             -  5  to  6 
North  Star,  bright  purple,  a  superb  flower      -  5  to  6 

*  Oliva,  (We/Zs'5,)  fine  yellow,  tipped  with  red  -      4  to  5 
Osceolus,  crimson  tipped   with  white  •      4  to  5 
Ovid,  (Keyne's)  bluish  purple,  beautifully  cupped      -  4  to  5 

*  Paragon,  (W 'ells' 's)  yellow,  edged  with  white            -  4  to  5 
Peerless  White,  purest  of  whites         -  5  to  6 
Perfection,  (Hedley's)  first  rate  dark  maroon                -  3  to  4 
Perfection,  (Holman's)  white,  tipped  and  striped  with  lilac  5  to  6 
Perfection  (IVidnalCs)  cupped  rosy  crimson               -  4  to  5 
Picta.  orange  and  red,  mottled  and  striped        -            -  4  to  5 

*  Picta  Magniflora,  (Wells's)  yellow,  edged  with  red  -      3  to  4 
"*  Picta  Perfecta,  (Harris's)  crimson,  shaded  with  black  -      5  to  6 
Pink  Perfection,  compact  flower,  cupped  petals           -  4  to  5 
Pindarus.  (Wells's)  yellow,  tipped  with  red                 -  4  to  5 
Pre-eminent,  (Barkis)  rich  rosy  crimson        -            -  4  to  5 

*  Premier,  (Bowman's)  beautiful  cupped  yellow       -  3  to  4 
t  President  Van  Buren,  (Makensie's)  bronzy  rose  -      4  to  5 

*  President,  (Wihner's)  dark  purple ;  well  formed        -  5  to  6 

*  Prima  Donna,  (Squibb's)  blush,  tinted  with  rosy  lilac  .      5  to  6 
$  Princess  of  Beauties,  white,  shaded  with  rose         -  -  -      4  to  5 

*  Princess  Victoria,  (WidnaWs)  white,  edged  with  purple,  3  to  4 
Purple  Perfection,  (E 'I p Inns tone's)  fine  cupped  flower  -      6  to  7 
$  Purple  Unique  (4ZZman'*)  fine  glossy  purple            -  3  to  4 

*  Queen  of  Beauties,  (Wells's,*)  white,  tipped  with  blood  red       5  to  6 

*  Q,ueen  Elizabeth,  (Brown's,)  mottled  purple  and  white  -      6  to  7 
§  Queen  of  lesmond,  white,  with  purple  stripes        -  4  to  5 

of  Spain,  (Doicning's,)  white,  laced  with  purple  -      4  to  5 

of  Trumps,  (Elphinstonti '$,)  extra  fine  shaded  rose  -      4  to  5 

17 


* 

194  DAHLIA    CATALOGUE. 

t   Denotes  American  Seedlings.  *  Free  Bloomers.   §  New  Varieties.        HEIGHT 

IN    FEET. 

Queen  Victoria,  (Fowler's,}  white,  laced  with  purple  -      4  to  5 

*  •  Victoria,  (Gaines's,)  pure  white,  cupped  petals  -      4  to  5 

Victoria,  (Hodge's,)  blush,  laced  with  carmine  -      4  to  5 

*  Quilled  Perfection,  (Brown's,)  beautiful  shaded  crimson  -      4  to  5 

*  Rainbow,  (WidnalVs,)  purple  and  crimson  shaded   -  5  to  G 
Red  Rover,  (  Girling"1  s,}  dark  red,  showy  flower         -                   5  to  6 

*  Reliance,  (WidnaWs,}  orange,  margined  with  buff  -  5  to  6 

*  Rienzi,  (WidnalVs,)  crimson  and  puce, mottled       -  4  to  5 
Ringleader,  (Wilmer's,)  beautiful  mottled  rose  -      5  to  6 
Rising  Sun,  (WidnalVs,}  large  bright  scarlet    -  6  to  7 
§  Rival  President,  (Elliot's,')  dark  puce,  splendidly  formed  -      5  to  6 

*  Rival  Purple,  (  Taylor's,}  extra  large  flower  -            -  5  to  6 
Rival  Queen,  white,  margined  with  pink  -      4  to  5 

*  Rival  Rose,  (Goodwin's,)  superb  ruby  rose,  cupped  -      3  to  4 
Rival  Sussex,  (Hainan's,)  beautiful  maroon    -            -  4  to  5 
Rival  Sussex,  (Stanford's,)  fine  dark  puce        -            -  4  to  5 
Rival  Yellow.  (Jackson's,)  brilliant  yellow        -            -  6  to  7 

*  Robert  Buist,  (Young's,)  white,  laced  with  purple   -  4  to  5 
Robert  Burt,  (Jackson's,)  rich  dark  red  -      4  to  5 
Robert  L'  Diable,  (Cor mack's,}  very  dark  puceft  -      5  to  6 
Rose  de  Amour,  (Brewers,}  rosy  pink,  tipped  with  white  -      5  to  6 

*  Rosa  Superba,  (Elphinslone"s,}  extra  fine  ruby  rose  -      5  to  6 
Rose  of  Shannon,  (Catleugh's,)  splendid  rose  -      4  to  5 
§  Rose  Superior,  (Girling's,)  very  splendid  perfect  flower  -      5  to  6 

*  Rosetta,  (Mayhew's,)  fine  ruby  rose  -      4  to  5 

*  Royal  Adelaide,  or  Qem,  (Brown's,}  white,  edged  with  rose       4  to  5 

*  Royal  Standard,  (Whale's,)" rich  rosy  purple  -      6  to  7 
Ruby,  (Girling's,}  mby  rose    -  5  to  6 
Salamander,  (Widnalf*,}  extra  large  scarlet    -                                4  to  5 

*  Scarlet  Perfection,  (Etphinslonv's,)  unrivalled  cupped  flower    5  to  6 
Scarlet  Perfection,  (Knight's,)  extra  rich  flower  -      4  to  5 

*  Sir  Henry  Fletcher,  fine  rosy  crimson  -      4  to  5 

*  Sir  John  Seabright,  (Sailer's,}  superb  rich  crimson  -      5  to  6 
Splendissima,  (Allmarfs.)  splendid  purple      -  5  to  6 
§  Springall  Conqueror,  darkest  flower  known             -  4  to  5 
Springfield  Rival,  (Inwoed's,)  fine  rosy  cupped,  crimson  -      6  to  7 
Springfield  Major,  (Gain^s,)  large  dark  crimson  purple  -      6  to  8 
Star  of  Buckland  crimson,  tipped  with  white  -  4  to  5 
Star,  (Brown's.)  extra  fine  scarlet        t-                                          5  to  6 

*  St.  Leonard's  Rival,  bright  rosy  lilac  -      5  to  6 

*  Striatta  Formosisima,  (Bates's,)  Carnation  striped,  beautiful       3  to  4 
§  Striped  Perfection,  (Case's,)  maroon,  striped  with  purple         4  to  5 
Striped  Unique,  (Girling' s,}  orange,  striped  with  scarlet  -      5  to  6 

*  Suffolk  Hero,  (Girling's,}  splendid  crimson  maroon  -      4  to  5 


DAHLIA    CATALOGUE.  195 

t  Denotes  American  Seedling*.    *  Free  Bloomers.  §  New  Varieties.  HEIGHT 

IN  FEET' 

*  Sulphurea  Elegans,  (Jones's,*)  sulphur,  often  tinged  with  red  5  to  6 
Summum  Bonum,  (Girling's?)  purple  bronze                          -  5  to  6 

*  Sunbury  Hero,  ( FFiZ/ner's,)  yellow,  tipped  with  red            -  5  to  C 

*  Surpasse  Triumph  Royal,  durably  fine,  scarlet  ruby           -  4  to  5 
Sussex  Defiance,  (Elphinstone's,)  chocolate,  very  rare            -  5  to  6 

*  Sylph,  {Widnall'st}  white,  deeply  edged  with  rose  -  4  to  5 
Sylvesta,  white,  sometimes  tinted  with  lilac       -            -  5  to  6 

*  Sylvia,  (WidnalFs,}  pale  rose,  finely  cupped                         -  4  to  5 
Symmetry,  (Douglas's.')  handsome  dark  crimson         -  4  to  5 

*  Topaz,  (Girling's,)  fine  golden  yellow                                   -  3  to  4 

*  Tower  of  Sarum,  (Wi/mer's,)  rich  rosy  crimson      -  4  to  5 
Triumphant,  (Jeffrie' '«,)  purple,  finely  cupped                          -  4  to  5 

*  Unique,  (Ansell's^)  light  yellow,  tipped  with  red      -  4  to  5 
Venosa,  (Wheeler's,)  blush,  margined  with  rosy  crimson         -  5  to  6 

*  Victoria Regina,  (Harris's)  beauti.ul  blush  -                         -  4  to  f> 

*  Victory,  (Knight's,)  rich  dark  crimson          -  5  to  6 
Village  Maid,  white,  edged  with  lilac    -  4  to  5 
§  Virgin  Queen,  pure  white,  finely  formed  flower       -  5  to  6 
Viscountess  of  Beresford,  dark  crimson,  tipped  with  white     -  4  to  5 
Warminster  Rival,  extra  bright  purple                                       -  C  to  7 
t  Washington,  white,  inclining  to  blush             -            -  4  to  5 
Waterloo  Scarlet  (Catleugfi's,)  orange  scarlet,  cupped            -  4  to  5 

*  Wonder,  (Green's,'}  white,  laced  with  rosy  lilac,  splendid   -  4  to  5 

*  Wormley  Star,  (Spier's,")  vivid  scarlet          -  6  to  7 
§  Yellow    Defiance,   (  COOT'S,)    splendid  flower,  the  roots  of 

which  were  selling  "in  London,  Nov.  1839,  at  £15  ster- 
ling, equal  to  Sixty-six  doltars       -                        -  4  to  5 

*  Yellow  Perfection,  (Stone's,)  extra  fine  dark  yellow  4  to  5 
t  Yemassee,  (Arnold's,*)  crimson  maroon,  always  perfect  4  to  5 
§  Yorkshire  Hero,  splendid  ruby  rose  -  4  to  5 

*  Zeno,  (Elphinst  one's,)  beautiful  purple,  blended  with  white  4  to  5 
Zitella,  fine  rosy  pink    -  3  to  4 

*  Zolermio,  (Priestley  s;)  clear  deep  yellow    -  5  to  6 


As  some  amateurs  are  apt  to  fancy,  that  the  most  econo- 
mical method  of  obtaining  a  supply  of  Dahlias  in  their 
gardens,  is  to  raise  them  from  seed,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
remind  such,  that  the  trouble  and  expense  of  raising  any 
quantity  of  seedlings,  is  equal  to  that  attending  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  same  number  of  the  choicest  varieties';  and 
when  it  is  considered  that  the  greatest  proportion  of  a  plan- 


196  DOUBLE   DAHLIA. 

tation  may  be  single,  and  semi-double,  and  that  but  fe?r 
double-flowering  plants  can  be  expected,  equal  to  those 
above  described,  it  must  appear  evident  that  it  is  the  inte- 
rest of  such  persons  as  desire  to  have  their  gardens  unin- 
eumbered  with  plants  that  are  not  calculated  to  ornament 
the  same,  to  procure  plants  or  roots  of  such  varieties  as 
have  been  tested,  and  highly  recommended,  as  is  the  case 
with  all  those  described  in  the  preceding  catalogue,  and 
also  those  which  are  generally  sold  by  the  regular  florists. 
But  as  I  am  writing  for  young  gardeners,  it  may  be  neces- 
sary to  state,  that  although  new  varieties  are  usually  raised 
from  seed  of  the  finest  double  flowers,  some  successful  pro- 
pagators prefer  that  procured  from  semi-double  varieties. 
Sow  seed  towards  the  end  of  February,  or  early  in  March, 
F  in  pots,  and  plunge  them  in  a  moderate  hot-bed,  or  seed 
may  be  deposited  in  the  earth  of  the  beds  in  shallow  drills, 
and  the  beds  attended  to  as  directed  in  the  calender  for 
February  and  March. 

Nothing  is  more  simple  than  the  cultivation  of  Dahlia 
roots.  In  March  or  April,  they  will,  if  properly  kept  through 
the  Winter,  begin  to  sprout  around  the  old  stems  and 
tubers.  To  forward  these  sprouts  in  growth,  the  roots  should 
be  either  buried  in  light  earth,  on  the  top  of  a  moderate  hot- 
bed, or  else  potted,  and  then  set  in  a  warm  room,  or  green- 
house, and  watered.  As  soon  as  the  shoots  have  grown  to 
the  length  of  two  or  three  inches,  the  roots  may  be  divided 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  have  a  good  strong  shoot  attached 
to  a  piece  of  the  tuber,  or  old  stem  ;  each  of  these  will,  if 
properly  managed,  make  a  plant.*  Those  who  may  com- 
mence cultivating  at  an  early  season,  should  put  the  plants 
thus  separated  into  small  pots,  and  keep  them  in  a  growing 
state  until  about  the  middle  of  May,  at  which  time  they  may 
be  turned  out  of  the  pots  with  the  balls  of  earth  entire,  and 


*  In  order  to  obtain  an  extra  number  of  plants  from  any  choice  varieties, 
cuttings  are  frequently  taken  from  the  shoots;  when  about  three  inches  in 
length/which  are  planted  in  nursery  pots,  and  cultivated  in  hot-beds:  these 
require  to  be  shaded  from  the  sun,  by  mats,  for  -the  first  fortnight,  after 
which  they  may  be  gradually  inured  to  the  air,  and  treated  as  plants  raised 
in  the  ordinary  way. 


DOUBLE  DAHLIA.  107 

planted  in  the  open  borders,  from  three  to  four  feet  from  each 
other.  Let  the  ground  be  well  pulverized,  and  enriched 
with  good  old  manure,  before  the  plants  are  set  out.  If  the 
top  soil  be  shallow,  and  the  subsoil  inferior,  it  would  be 
beneficial  to  the  plants,  if  holes  be  dug  to  the  depth  of  from 
a  foot  to  eighteen  inches,  and  then  replenished  with  good 
rich  compost,  consisting  of  two-thirds  fresh  loam,  and  one 
third  of  well  rotted  manure. 

Many  cultivators  have  found  late  planting  to  suit  better 
than  «arly,  and  I  myself  have  had  more  perfect  flowers, 
from  plants  set  out  about  the  middle  of  June,  than  from 
those  planted  in  May  :  this  is  easily  accounted  for.  In  July 
and  August  the  weather  is  generally  hot,  which  brings 
the  forvvardest  plants  into  bud  at  an  early  season,  and 
in  the  event  of  a  continuation  of  hot  dry  weather,  such 
buds  fail  to  produce  perfect  flowers  ;  whereas  those  plants 
which  are  set  out  late,  keep  growing  through  the  hot 
weather,  and  produce  their  buds  just  in  time  to  receive  all 
the  benefit  of  the  Autumnal  rains.  From  a  consideration  of 
these  circumstances,  I  think  early  in  June  the  safest  time  to 
set  out  Dahlia  plants  ;  and  if  those  persons  who  have  no  con- 
venience of  forcing  their  roots,  set  them  out  in  May,  in 
ground  prepared  as  before  directed,  they  will  generally  suc- 
ceed very  well,  provided  they  take  care  to  cover  them  incase 
of  a  cold  change  of  weather.  The  roots  may  be  thus  cul- 
tivated entire,  as  is  frequently  done  ;  but  if  it  be  desired  to 
have  them  parted,  this  business  can  be  easily  accomplished 
without  disturbing  the  roots,  and  the  offsets  ma'y  be  planted 
in  the  ground  seperately  or  potted. 

Previous  to  sotting  out  the  plants,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
provide  for  their  preservation  through  the  varied  changes  of 
the  season,  or  a  sudden  gust  of  wind  may  destroy  the  expec- 
tations of  a  year.  The  branches  of  the  Dahlia  are  extremely 
brittle,  and,  therefore,  a  good  stout  pole,  or  neat  stake,  should 
be  driven  down  near  each  root,  of  a  suitable  height,  so  that 
the  branches  as  they  progress  in  growth,  may  be  tied  thereto 
at  every  joint,  which  may  be  done  with  shreds  of  matting  or 
twine.  Ifthe  poles  bain  readiness,  they  are  much  more  easily- 
fixed  at  the  time  of  planting  the  Dahlias  than  afterwards  ;  but 

17* 


198  GLADIOLUS,  CORN  FLAG,  OR  SWORD  LILY. 

it  may  be  done  at  any  time  after  the  ground  has  been  soft- 
ened by  rain,  provided  it  be  not  delayed  too  long,  so  as  to 
subject  the  plants  to  risk.  Sometimes  a  few  forward  buds 
of  the  Dahlias  will  exhibit  their  premature  beauties  to  the 
beams  of  a  July  and  August  sun ;  but  their  lustre  is  quickly 
dimmed*  The  latter  end  of  September,  sometimes  all  Oc- 
tober, and  part  of  November,  witness  the  Dahlia  in  all  its 
glory  ;  and  dwarf  plants,  cultivated  in  pots,  will  sometimes 
blossom  at  Christmas  ;  but  they  require  more  than  ordinary 
care,  at  a  late  period  of  their  growth. 


GLADIOLUS,  CORN:FLAG,  OR  SWORD  LILY. 

Of  this  genus  of  bulbs  there  are  about  fifty  species,  natives 
of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  produce  flowers  of 
various  colours,  in  August  and  September,  and  are  well 
worthy  the  attention  of  those  who  cultivate  tender  exotic 
plants.  They  may  be  planted  in  September  or  October, 
about  an  inch  deep  in  pots,  which  must  be  kept  in  a  green- 
house or  light  room,  and  watered  sparingly  until  they  begin 
to  grow.  The  following  are  known  to  be  superb  species 
and  varieties : 

G.  alatus,  or  Wing-Flowered,  producing  bright  orange 
coloured  flowers. 

G.  blandus  produces  flowers  of  a  beautiful  blush  rose 
colour. 

G.  Byzantinus,  or  Turkish  Flag,  has  large  delicate 
purple  ilowers. 

G.  cardinalis.  This  variety  produces  very  large  flowers 
of  superb  scarlet,  spotted  with  white. 

G.  floribundus,  or  cluster  flower,  produces  large  flowers, 
of  white  and  pink  colour. 

The  Gladiolus  Natalensis,  or  Psitacinna,  is  perhaps  the 
most  desirable  to  cultivate  of  all  others.     It  blossoms  freely* 
and  the  colours  are  exquisitely  beautiful.     In  its  progress  of 
blooming,  it  exhibits    variable  colours,  as  vermilion,  red 
yellow,    green,   white,   crknson,    &c.,  which  brighten,  as 


HYACINTH.  199 

the  flower  arrives  at  perfection,  to  the  brilliancy  of  a  rain- 
bow. Another  good  quality  displays  itself  in  the  bulb, 
which,  if  properly  managed,  will  yield  an  abundance  of 
offsets  ;  these  being  cultivated,  will  flower  the  third  year  in 
perfection,  and  thus  continue  to  multiply  perpetually. 

I  have  named  September  and  October  as  the  season  for 
planting,  because  it  is  considered  the  preferable  season  for 
most  bulbs ;  but  if  these  be  preserved  in  good  condition 
through  the  Winter  until  early  in  April,  and  then  planted  in 
a  soil  consisting  of  about  one  half  fresh  loam,  equal  parts 
of  leaf  mould,  and  sand  well  mixed,  they  may  be  forwarded 
in  a  warm  room,  green-house,  or  moderate  hot-bed,  until 
settled  warm  weather,  and  then  turned  out  of  the  pots  into 
a  border,  where  they  can  be  shaded  from  the  sun  at 
noonday  ;  this  will  induce  each  of  them  to  throw  up  three 
or  four  stems  from  three  to  four  feet  high,  each  stem  pro- 
ducing five  or  six  gorgeous  blossoms,  in  great  perfection. 
Those  planted  in  the  Autumn  or  Winter,  may  also  be  turned 
out  of  the  pots  in  June;  and,  from.;  the  fibres  having  taken 
substantial  root  in  the  soil  before  transplanting,  such  plants 
may  be  taken  up  again  in  August,  or  early  in  September  ; 
.and  on  being  planted  in  large  pots,  they  maybe  removed, 
so  as  to  perfect  their  bloom,  within  view  of  the  parlour  or 
sitting-room,  which  will  afford  considerable  amusement  and 
gratification. 


HYACINTH. 

u  Hail  to  thee !  hail,  thou  lovely  flower! 
Still  shed  around  thy  sweet  perfume, 
Still  smile  amid  the  Wintry  hour, 
And  boast  e'en  then  a  Spring-tide  bloom. 
Thus  hope,  'mid  life's  severest  days, 
Still  smiles,  still  triumphs  o'er  despair; 
Alike  she  lives  in  pleasure's  rays, 
And  cold  affliction's  Winter  air." 

There  are,  as  has  been  already  stated,  about  thirteen 
hundred  varieties  of  this  family  of  plants,  comprising  all  the 
various  hues,  as-  white,  pink,  red,  yellow,  blue,  purple, 


300  IRK,  OR   FLOWER  DE  LUCE, 

crimson,  &c.  and  some  of  those  with  various  coloured  eyes. 
They  begin  to  produce  their  flowers  in  the  open  borders 
early  in  April,  on  short  erect  stems  covered  with  florets  or 
small  bells  ;  each  floret  is  well  filled  with  petals  rising 
towards  the  centre,  and  is  suspended  from  the  stem  by  short 
strong  footstalks,  the  longest  at  the  bottom,  and  the  upper- 
most florets  stand  so  erect  as  to  form  a  pyramid.  A  planta- 
tion, or  a  bed  of  these,  have  a  very  beautiful  appearance,  pro- 
vided they  are  well  attended  to.  In  planting  them,  which 
should  be  in  the  months  of  October  or  November,  care  should 
b«  taken  to  have  the  colours  so  diversified  as  to  suit  the  fancy ; 
they  may  be  placed  in  short  rows  across  the  bed,  about  eight 
inches  apart,  and  from  three  to  four  inches  deep,  measuring 
from  ill -3  top  of  the  bulb,  and  covered  up  at  the  setting  in  of 
Winter,  as  before  recommended  for  bulbs  in  general. 

Those  who  may  have  a  fine  collection,  should  have  an 
awning  erected  in  the  Spring,  to  screen  them  from  the 
chilling  blast,  and  also  from  drenching  rains  and  the  noon- 
day sun  ;  and  they  should  be  looked  over  as  soon  as  they 
make  their  appearance  above  ground,  to  see  if  they  are  all 
perfect  and  regular;  if  faulty  or  inferior  bulbs  should  appear 
to  have  been  planted  in  a  conspicuous  part  of  the  bed,  by 
accident  or  mistake,  they  can  be  taken  out,  and  by  short- 
ening the  rows,  others  may  be  substituted  with  a  trowel. 
When  all  are  regulated,  look  over  them  frequently,  and  as 
the  stems  shoot  up,  tie  them  to  wires,  or  small  rods,  with 
shreds  of  bass  matting  or  thread,  being  careful  not  to  injure 
the  florets.  In  about  six  weeks  after  they  have  done  flower- 
ing, the  bulbs  may  be  taken  up,  and  managed  as  recommen- 
ded for  bulbs  in  general,  in  a  former  page. 


IRIS,  OR  FLOWER  DE  LUCE. 

There  are  two  distinct  species  of  plants  cultivated  under 
the  name  of  Flower  de  Luce,  each  consisting  of  several 
varieties.  The  bulbous  species  and  varieties  are  designated 
as  English,  Spanish,  Chalcedonian,  and  American.  These, 


IXIAS — JONQUILS.  201 

if  introduced  into  the  flower  borders,  and  intermixed  with 
perennial  plants  of  variable  colours,  have  a  very  pretty 
appearance  when  planted  in  clumps  or  patches.  This  may 
be  done  in  the  month  of  October,  by  taking  out  a  spadeful 
of  earth  from  each  place  alloted  for  a  plant,  and  then 
inserting  three  or  four  bulbs,  about  two  inches  deep.  If  the 
ground  be  poor,  some  rich  compost  may  be  dug  in  around 
the  spot  before  the  bulbs  are  planted,  and  if  several  sorts  be 
planted  in  the  same  border,  let  them  be  of  various  colours. 
The  tuberous-ropted  are  of  various  colours,  as  blue, 
yellow,  brown,  and  spotted ;  they  are  easily  cultivated,  and 
flower  freely  in  a  loose  soil  inclining  to  moisture,  if  planted 
in  March  or  April. 


IXIAS. 

These  are  tender,  but  very  free-flowering  bulbs,  producing 
on  their  stems,  which  vary  in  height  from  six^inches  to  two 
feet,  very  delicate  flowers  of  various  colours,  as  orange," 
blush,  white,  purple,  green,  crimson,  scarlet,  and  some  have 
two  and  three  colours  connected  in  the  same  plant. 

There  are,  in  all,  upwards  of  twenty  species,  which  may 
be  cultivated  in  the  green-house,  by  planting  the  bulbs 
in  pots  in  September  or  October,  and  placing  them  near 
the  light,  and  then  watering  them  sparingly  until  they 
begin  to  shoot. 


,  JONQUILS. 

This  is  a  hardy  race  of  bulbs,  and  produces  very  delicate 
yellow  flowers  early  in  May.  There  are  different  varieties, 
some  of  which  are  single-flowering,  and  others  double. 
Their  fragrance  is  very  grateful,  being  similar  to  that  of 
Jasmines.  The  bulbs  may  be  planted  about  two  inches 
deep  in  the  flower  borders,  or  in  pots,  in  October,  or  before 
the  setting  in  of  Winter  ;  they  flower  better  the  second  year 
than  in  the  first,  and,  therefore,  should  not  be  moved  and 
replanted  oftener  than  once  in  three  years. 


202  LACHENALIAS — LILIES. 

LACHENALIAS. 

These  are  tender  little  bulbs,  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  There  are  supposed  to  be  in  all  about  forty  species 
and  varieties.  Those  most  cultivated  with  us,  are  the 
Lachenalia  quadri-color,  and  L.  tri- color  ^  which  are 
very  beautiful  when  in  full  bloom,  exhibiting  flowers  of 
various  colours  on  a  stem  of  from  six  inches  to  a  foot  in 
height,  and  much  in  the  character  of  Hyacinths.  The 
colours  which  are  yellow,  scarlet,  orange,  green,  &c.,  are 
very  pure  arid  distinct.  L.  nervosa,  L.  orchoides,  L.  punc- 
tata,  and  L.  rubida,  are  all  excellent  species,  and  worthy  of 
cultivation.  They  may  be  planted  from  one  to  two  inches 
deep,  in  small  pots,  in  the  month  of  August  and  September, 
arid  watered  but  sparingly  until  they  begin  to  grow. 


LILIES. 

There  are  several  plants  under  this  name,  of  ^different 
genera,  some  of  which  are  indigenous.  The  Canada  Lily, 
with  yellow  spotted  drooping  flowers,  may  be  seen  in  wet 
meadows  towards  the  last  of  June,  and  early  in  July.  The 
Philadelphia  Lily  blooms  also  in  July  ;  its  flowers  are  red. 
There  are  some  pure  white,  and  others  yellow,  growing  in 
various  parts  of  the  country.  Among  the  foreign  genera 
are  several  species.  Of  the  Martagon,  or  Turk's-cap  Lilies, 
there  are  some  beautiful  varieties  ;  as  the  Caligula,  which 
produces  scarlet  flowers ;  and  there  is  one  called  the  Crown 
of  Tunis,  of  purple  colour  ;  besides  these,  are  the  Double 
Violet  Flamed,  the  White,  the  Orange,  and  the  Spotted ; 
these  are  all  hardy,  and  may  be  planted  in  various  parts  of 
the  garden,  by  taking  out  a  square  foot  of  earth,  and  then, 
after  manuring  and  pulverizing  it,  the  bulbs  may  be  planted 
therein  before  the  setting  in  of  Winter,  at  different  depths, 
from  two  to  four  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bulbs*. 
Some  of  the  Chinese  varieties  are  very  beautiful,  as  the 
Tiger,  or  Leopard  Lily,  and  the  dwarf  red  Lilium  con 


NARCISSUS.  —         203 

tolour.  There  are  others  with  elegant  silver  stripes,  which 
are  very  showy,  and  there  is  one  called  Lilium  superbum, 
that  has  been  known  to  have  had  twenty-five  flowers  on  a 
stalk. 

Besides  those  above  enumerated}  there  are  some  others 
which  are  generally  cultivated  in  greenhouses,  as  the  Calla, 
or  Ethiopian  Lily  ;  and  the  following  which  have  been 
known  to  endure  our  Winters,  by  protecting  them  with 
dung,  &c.  Lilium  longiflorum,  in  two  varieties  ;  these  pro- 
duce on  their  stalks,  which  grow  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  high,  beautiful  rose-coloured  flowers,  streaked  with 
white,  which  are  very  sweet-scented.  These  roots  are 
sometimes  kept  out  of  the  ground  until  Spring,  and  then 
planted  in  the  flower  borders,  but  they  should  be  preserved 
carefully  in  sand,  or  dry  mould.  Lilium  Japonicum.  Of 
these  there  are  two  varieties,  which  produce  several  stalks  at 
once,  yielding  very  showy  flowers.  One  of  the  varieties  is 
blue  flowered,  and  the  other  produces  flowers  of  the  purest 
white. 



NARCISSUS. 

The  species  and  varieties  of  this  plant  are  numerous. 
The  Incomparable  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  produces  its 
flowers  in  April,  which  are  called  by  some  pasche,  or  pans 
flowers,  by  others,  butter  and  eggs ;  perhaps  because  their 
bright  yellow  petals  are  surrounded  whith  large  white  ones. 
Some  persons  dislike  the  smell  of  these,  and  it  is  said  that 
the  odour  has  a  pernicious  effect  upon  the  nerves;  but  the 
white  fragrant  double,  as  well  as  the  Roman  and  Poly- 
anthus Narcissus,  are  free  from  this  objection,  being  of  a 
very  grateful  and  agreeable  smell.  Some  of  these  are  justly 
•  held  in  great  esteem  for  their  earliness,  as  well  as  for  their 
varied  colours.  The  Grand  Monarque  de  France,  the  Belle 
Legoise,  and  some  others,  have  white  flowers  with  yellow 
cups.  The  Glorieux  has  a  yellow  ground,  with  orange- 
coloured  cups  ;  besides  these  are  some  white  and  citron- 
coloured,  as  the  Luna,  and  others  entirely  white,  as  the 


204  ORNITHOGALUM,  OR  STAR  OP  BETHLEHEM. 

Rein  Blanche,  and  Morgenster.  All  these  varieties  are  very 
suitable  either  for  the  parlour  or  greenhouse,  and  may  be 
planted  in  pots,  from  October  to  December,  from  two  to  three 
inches  deep.  The  double  Roman  Narcissus  are  very  sweet- 
scented  ;  if  these  be  planted  in  pots,  or  put  into  bulb  glasses 
in  the  month  of  October,  they  will  flower  in  January  and 
February. 

Polyanthus  Narcissus  are  more  delicate  than  Hyacinths 
or  Tulips  ;  when  they  are  planted  in  the  open  border,  they 
should  be  covered  about  four  inches  with  earth,  and  before 
the  setting  in  of  Winter,  it  is  advisable  to  cover  the  beds 
with  straw,  leaves,  or  litter,' to  the  depth  of  six  or  seven 
inches,  and  to  uncover  them  about  the  middle  of  March. 


ORNITHOGALUM,  OR  STAR  OF  BETHLEHEM. 

There  are  about  fifty  varieties  of  these  bulbs,  natives  of 

the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  some  of  which  are  from  three  to 

five  inches  in   diameter,    and   shaped  similar  to  a   pear ; 

others  are  much  like  Hyacinth  bulbs. — Among  those  culti* 

fated  in  America  are  the  O.  lacteum  and  the   O.  aureum  ; 

the  former  produces  fine  white  flowers,  and  the  spike  is 

about  a  foot  in  length ;  the  latter   produces  flowers  of  a 

golden    colour,    in   contracted   racemose  corymbs.      The 

O.  maritimum,  or  Sea  Squill,  is  curious  ;  from  the  centre  of 

the  root  arise  several  shining  glaucous  leaves,  a  foot  long, 

two  inches  broad  at  the  base,  and  narrowing  to  a  point.     If 

kept  in  a  greenhouse,  these  are  green  during  Winter,  and 

decay  in  the  Spring :  then  the  flower-stalk  comes  up  rising 

two  feet,  naked  half  way,  and  terminated  by  a  pyramidal 

thyrse  of  white  flowers. 

These  bulbs  are  generally  cultivated  in  the  greenhouse, 
and  require  a  compost  consisting  of  about  one-half  fresh 
loam,  one-third  leaf  mould,  and  the  remainder  sand,  in 
which  they  may  be  planted  in  September.  When  cultiva- 
ted in  the  garden,  they  should  be  planted  four  or  five  inches 
deep,  and  protected  with  dung,  &c.  They  produce  their 
flowers  early  in  June* 


OXALIS—  P.EONY.  205 

OXALIS. 

The  Oxalis  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  ;  the 
species  are  numerous,  and  their  roots  are  very  small  bulbs, 
articulated,  jointed,  or  granulated,  in  a  manner  peculiar 
to  this  genus.  They  produce  curious  flowers  of  various 
hues,  yellow,  purple,  rose,  red,  white,  striped,  vermilion 
colour,  <fcc.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  very  small 
pots  in  August  and  September,  in  a  compost,  consisting  of 
about  two-thirds  loam,  and  one-third  leaf  or  light  mould, 
and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  other  Cape  Bulbs. 
They  increase  in  a  peculiar  manner,  by  the  parent  bulb 
striking  a  fibre  down  from  its  base,  at  the  extremity  of  which 
is  produced  a  new  bulb  for  the  next  year's  plant,  the  old 
one  perishing.  These  plants  wtll  flower  freely  in  a  green- 
house. 


*'  Pceonia  round  each  fiery  ring  unfurls, 

Bares  to  the  noon's  bright  blaze  her  sanguine  curls." 

Of  this  genus  of  splendid  plants  there  are  known  to  be 
about  twenty  species,  and  as  many  varieties.  It  is  said 
that  tbe  Paonia  officinalis  rnbra,  or  common  double  red 
Pceony,  was  introduced  into  Antwerp  upwards  of  two  centu- 
ries ago,  at  which  time  it  was  sold  at  an  enoimous  price.  It 
has  since  been  highly  esteemed  in  Europe  and  America, 
and  is  to  be  fou'id  in  all  well-established  gardens,  exhibiting 
its  vivid  crimson  petals  early  in  June.  Many  superb  species 
have  -of  lute  years  been  brought  from  China,  a  few  of  which 
may  be  noticed,  with  some  others  which  are  in  very  great 
repute. 

PcBonia  alba  Chinensis  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the  herba- 
ceous sorts.  The  flowers  are  white,  tinged  with  pink  at 
the  bottom  of  the  petals. 

P.  edulis  whitliji  has  also  white  flowers,  which  are  very 
large  and  splendid. 

P.  edu7i$  fragrans,  is  a  fine  large  double  scarlet  variety, 
and  produces  flowers  perfumed  like  the  rdse. 

18 


206  TULIP. 

P.  humei  has  b3aiitiful  large  double  dark  blush -coloured 
flowers. 

P.  paradoxa  fimbriata,  produces  fringed  double  red 
flowers,  which  are  very  beautiful. 

These  are  all  hardy,  and  may  be  planted  about  four 
inches  deep  in  the  garden,  in  October  or  November.  The 
flowers  exhibit  themselves  to  the  best  advantage,  when 
planted  on  a  bed  that  is  elevated,  and  of  a  circular  form. 

The  following  are  half  hardy  and  half  shrubby  ;  these 
have  been  known  to  survive  the  Winter  by  being  well  pro- 
tected, but  are  kept  much  better  in  a  greenhouse  ;  and  thej 
also  exhibit  their  flowers  to  greater  advantage  than  when 
exposed  to  the  full  sun. 

P.  moutan  Banksii,  or  Tree  Paeony,  produces  very  large 
double  blush  flowers  in  abundance,  with  feathered  edges  to 
every  petal.  This  variety  is  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

P.  moutan  rosea  is  a  fine  rose-coloured  double  variety, 
and  produces  very  splendid  flowers. 

P.  moutan  papaveraeea  produces  very  large  white  flowers, 
with  pink  centres.  This  splendid  variety  frequently  bears 
flowers  from  nine  to  eleven  inches  in  diameter. 

Besides  the  above,  are  several  others  of  various  colours, 
some  of  which  are  semi  double. 


TULIP. 

'*  For  brilliant  tints  to  charm  the  eyo. 
What  plant  can  with  the  TULIP  vie? 
Yet  no  delicious  scent  it  yields 
To  cheer  the  garden,  or  the  fields ; 
Vainly  in  gaudy  colours  drest, 
"Tis  rather  gazed  on  than  caressed." 

The  Tulip  is  a  native  of  the  Levant,  and  has  been  in 
cultivation  nearly  three  centuries.  It  may  be  justly  entitled 
the  King  of  Flowers,  for  the  brilliancy  and  endless  com- 
bination of  all  colours  and  shades.  The  varieties  of  the 
Tulip  are  very  numerous,  and  are  divided  into  different 
classes.  Those  cultivated  in  regular  beds  by  amateurs  are 
rose-coloured,  bybloemen  and  bizarres.  There  are  a  great 


TULIP.  207 

many  beautiful  varieties,  denominated  Parrot  Tulips,  which 
have  notched  petals,  and  striped  or  diversified  with  green  ; 
and  also  some  very  dwarfish  kinds,  both  single  and  double, 
which  are  generally  cultivated  in  parlours  and  greenhouses. 

Mr.  T.  Hogg,  of  Paddington,  near  London,  has  pub- 
lished  a  work,  entitled,  "  A  Treatise  on  the  Cultivation  of 
Florists'  Flowers,"  which  comprises  the  Tulip,  Carnation, 
Auricula.  Ranunculus,  Polyanthus,  Dahlia,  German  and 
China  Asters,  Seedling  Heartsease,  and  New  Annuals.  In 
that  work,  which  is  dedicated  to  Queen  Adelaide,  the  author 
remarks  that  the  cultivation  of  the  Tulip  is  one  of  the  most 
fascinating  and  pleasing  pursuits  imaginable,  and  that  when 
the  "  Tulip  mania  has  fairly  got  hold  of  any  one,  it  sticks 
to  him  like  the  skin  on  his  back,  and  remains  with  him  the 
rest  of  his  life."  He  instances  a  Mr.  Davey,  of  Chelsea, 
as  being  in  his  seventy-fifth  year,  and  in  whose  breast  the 
fancy  for  Tulips  was  so  predominant,  that  in  the  Autumn  of 
1832,  he  was  induced  to  part  with  a  hundred  sovereigns  for 
one  single  'Tulip,  named  "Miss  Fanny  Remble."  Perhaps 
a  better  definition  of  what  constitutes  the  properties  of  a 
good  Tulip,  conld  not^be  given  than  a  description  of  this 
precious  gem,  or  "  loveliest  of  all  Tulips  ;"  but,  lest  my 
readers  should  conclude  that  the  old  gentleman  was  in  his 
dotage,  I  would  inform  them  that  this  favorite  bulb  was 
purchased  of  the  executors  of  the  late  Mr.  Clarke,  with 
whom  it  originated,  and  that  it  had  not  only  been  the  pet  of 
its  late  owner,  but  had  excited  the  envy  and  admiration  of 
all  the  amateurs  who  went  to  view  it. 

"  This  precious  gem,  a  bybloemen  Tulip,  was  raised  from 
one  of  Mr.  Clarke's  seedling  breeders,  and  broke  into  colour 
three  years  ago;  it  has  produced  two  offsets  since,  and  is 
adapted  to  the  second  or  third  row  in  the  bed ;  tlie  stem  is 
firm  and  elastic ;  the  foliage  full  and  broad,  of  a  lively 
green  ;  the  cup  large,  and  of  the  finest  form  ;  the  white 
pure  and  wholly  free  from  stain  ;  the  pencilling  on  the 
petals  is  beautifully  marked  with  black  or  dark  purple,  and 
the  feathering  uniform  and  elegant;  it  preserves  its  shape 
to  the  last,  the  outer  leaves  not  sinking  from  the  inner  ;  in 
a  word,  it  is  considered  the  first  flower  of  its  cast,  and  the 
best  that  has  ever  been  produced  in  England." 


208 


TULIP. 


The  article  in  the  work  already  alluded  to,  on  the  culti- 
vation of  Tulips  alone,  occupies  ninety. six  pages  ;  I, 
therefore,  cannot  attempt  any  thing  more  than  an  abridge- 
ment of  the  author's  ideas  on  some  important  points. 
Those  of  my  readers  who  may  desire  full  information,  are 
referred  to  the  work  itself,  which  may  be  obtained  of  Mr. 
G.  C.  Thorburn. 

The  following  description  may  serve  to  govern  the  choice 
of  amateurs  :  Tulips  exhibited  at  the  shows,  are,  in  general, 
classed  and  distinguished  as  follows :  Flamed  Bizarrts, 
Feathered  Bizarres,  Flamed  Bybloemms,  Feathered  Ky- 
bloemenSi  Flamed  Roses,  Feathered  Roses,  and  Sclfs,  or 
plain-coloured. 

A  Bizane  Tulip  has  a  yellow  ground,  marked  with 
purple  or  scarlet  of  different  shades ;  it  is  called  flamed 
when  a  Broad  or  irregular  stripe  runs  up  the  middle  of  the 
petals,  with  short  abrupt  projecting  points,  branching  out 
on  each  side  ,  fine  narrow  lines,  called  arched  and  ribbed 
often  extend,  also,  from  this  broad  side  to  the  extremity 
of  the  leaves  ;  the  colour  generally  appearing  strongest  in 
the  inside  petals;  a  Tulip,  with  this  broad  coloured  stripe, 
which  is  sometimes  called  beamed  or  splashed,  is,  at  the 
same  time,  frequently  feathered  also. 

It  is  called  feathered  when  it  is  without  this  broad  stripe  ; 
but  yet  it  may  have  some  narrow  lines,  joined  or  detached, 
running  up  the  centre  of  the  leaf,  sometimes  branching  out 
and  carved  towards  the  top,  and  sometimes  without  any 
spot  or  line  at  all  ;  the  petals  are  feathered  more  or  less 
round  the  edges  or  margin  inside  and  out,  the  pencilling  or 
feathering  is  heavy  or  broad  in  some,  and  light  or  narrow 
in  others,  sometimes  with  breaks  or  gaps,  and  sometimes 
close-  and  continued  all  round. 

A  Byblocmen  Tulip  has  a  white  ground,  lined,  marked, 
striped  or  variegated  with  violet  or  purple,  only  of  various 
shades  ;  and  whether  feathered  or  flamed,  is  distinguished 
by  the  same  characters  and  marks  which  are  pointed  out 
and  applied  to  the  Bizarred  Tulips. 

A  Rose,  Tulip  is  marked  or  variegated  with  rose,  scarlet, 
crimson  or  cherry  colour,  on  a  white  ground  ;  and  the 


TULIPS.  209 

Feathered  Rose  is  to  be  distinguished  from  the  Flamed  bj 
the  same  rules  as  described  before;  the  Rose  is  very  often 
both  feathered  and  flamed. 

A  Self,  or  plain-coloured  Tulip,  properly  so  called,  is 
either  white  or  yellow,  and  admits  of  no  further  change  ; 
other  plain-coloured  Tulips,  whether  red  or  purple,  are 
called  breeders,  and  are  hardly  worthy  of  being  exhibited. 
Mr.  Hogg  informs  us,  that  £100,  say  $500,  judiciously 
expended  at  the  present  time,  will  give  a  moderate  sized 
bed,  that  shall  contain  the  greater  part  of  the  finest  varieties 
grown  ;  such  a  bed  as  £250  would  not  have  purchased 
twelve  orfourleen  years  ago. 

To  describe  minutely  the  mode  of  planting  a  regular  bed 
of  Tulips  would  exceed  our  limits  ;  suffice  it  to  state  that 
the  name  of  every  bulb  should  be  written  in  a  book,  and 
that  they  should  be  so  classed  as  to  have  the  varied  colours 
to  show  advantageously;  to  this  end,  the  tallest  should  be 
allotted  for -the  middle  of  the  bed,  and  others  in  regular 
gradations,  so  as  to  have  the  most  dwarfish  on  the  sides. 
The  bulbs  must  be  covered  with  good  mould,  to  the  depth 
of  three  inches  from  the  top  of  the  bulb  on  the  sides  of  the 
bed,  and  about  four  inches  in  the  middle.  Let  a  small 
spoonful  of  clean  drift  sand  be  used  around  each  bulb,  and 
see  that  the  bed  be  left  sufficiently  round  from  the  middle 
to  the  edges.  The  beginner  must  understand  that  no  un- 
sightly tallies,  or  -number  sticks,  are  to  distinguish  the 
Tulips  ;  but  that  he  must  adopt  a  sort  of  ground  plan,  divi- 
ding the  whole  bed  into  rows  of  seven  bulbs  across  ;  for 
example,  take  and  write  down  the  names  and  places  of  the 
Tulips  in  the  first  row,  and  continue  the  same  form  all 
through  to  the  other  end  of  the  bed. 

Row  1st. 

No.  1.     Fenelon,    ------  this  is  a  Bybloemen.. 

2.  Duchess  of  Clarence,    -     -  Rose-coloured. 

3.  Charlemagne,      ....  Bybloemen. 

4.  Louis  the  Sixteenth,      -     -  Bybloemen. 

5.  Memnon,  ------  Bizarre. 

6..    Volney, Bybloemen. 

7.     Lady  Crewe,       ....     Rose-coloured. 

18* 


210  TUBEROSE. 

Good  fresh  loam,  taken  from  under  healihy  grass  sods,  13 
the  most  suitable  soil  for  Tulips  to  grow  in  ;  under  \vhich 
should  be  buried,  to  the  depth  of  a  foot,  about  two  inches 
thickness  of  well  rotted  cow  or  horse  droppings.  The  reason 
for  placing  the  dung  so  low  is,  that  the  fibres  may  get  down 
to  it,  (which  they  will  do,)  and  that  the  bulbs  may  not 
be  injured  by  it,  as  is  apt  to  be  the  case  if  too  much  dung  is 
used  around  them.  The  best  time  for  planting  the  bulbs,  is 
early  in  November,  and  the  beds  should  be  made  a  forf night 
previous,  in  order  that  the  earth  may  become  sufficiently 
settled. 

If  severe  frosts  set  in,  after  the  Tulips  show  themselves 
above  ground  in  the  Spring,  some  protection  should  be 
given ;  single  mats  placed  over  hoop  bends  answer  very 
well ;  and  at  the  time  of  blooming,  an  awning  should  be 
erected  over  them,  sufficient  to  screen  the  Tulips  from  the 
intense  heat  of  the  sun,  which  awning  should  be  sufficiently 
spacious  to  admit  of  persons  walking  under  it,  to  view  the 
beautiful  flowers  to  the  greatest  possible  advantage. 


TUBEROSE. 

This  fragrant  and  delightful  flower  has  been  cultivated  in 
English  flower  gardens  for  upwards  of  two  centuries  ;  there 
the  bulbs  are  generally  cultivated  in  pots  early  in  the  Spring, 
and  transferred  to  the  flower  borders  as  soon  as  it  becomes 
settled  warm  weather ;  for  they  are  very  tender.  They 
generally  succeed  very  well  here,  if  planted  at  once  in  the 
open  borders  towards  the  end  of  April,  and  produce  flowers 
which  are  pure  white,  and  highly  odoriferous,  on  a  stem 
from  three  to  four  feet  high. 

The  bulbs  produce  a  number  of  offsets,  which  should  be 
preserved  with  the  parent  plants  through  the  Winter,  and 
then  parted  oft"  and  planted  by  themselves  in  April  or  early 
in  May,  to  produce  flowering  roots  for  the  ensuing  year. 
These  roots  thrive  best  in  a  light  rich  soil,  well  pulverised, 
in  which  they  should  be  planted  about  two  inches  deep,  not 
forgetting  to  take  them  up  again  before  the  approach  of 
Winter. 


211 
TIGER  FLOWER 

Perhaps  there  is  no  flower  treated  of  in  this  work,  that  i* 
more  beautiful  than  some  of  the  species  of  the  geniia 
Tigridia.  Like  all  Mexican  bulbs,  these  are  tender,  and 
should  either  be  cultivated  in  the  greenhouse,  or  carefully 
preserved  until  settled  warm  weather,  and  then  planted  in 
good  light  soil,  in  a  sheltered  situation.  A  bed  of  these 
beautiful  flowers  would  afford  as  much  gratification  to  some, 
amateurs  as  a  bed  of  Tulips. 

The  Tigridia  conchiflorais  of  a  rich  yellow  colour,  tinged 
and  spotted  with  white  and  crimson  ;  the  colours  are  very 
vivid  and  finely  contrasted.  The  Tigridia  pavonia  is  of 
the  brightest  scarlet,  tinged  and  spotted  with  brilliant  yellow. 
The  corolla  which  is  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  is  com- 
posed of  six  petals  ;  the  outer  petals  are  thrown  backward, 
and  exhibit  the  blossom  in  all  its  splendour,  which  exists 
only  a  single  day  ;  but  as  if  to  co.mpensate  for  its  transient 
visit,  each  plant  will  produce  numerous  flowers;  and  where 
a  bed  of  them  can  be  collected,  they  will  amuse  their  admi- 
rers for  several  weeks  from  July  to  September.  In  such  a 
case,  the  bulbs  may  be  planted  about  two  inches  deep ;  say 
nine  by  fifteen  inches  apart,  towards  the  end  of  April 
or  early  in  May,  and  taken  up  again  in  October,  to  preserve 
for  planting  the  ensuing  year. 


212 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON  THH 

CULTURE  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS, 

IN  POTS  OR  GLASSES,  IN  THE  WINTER  SEASON. 


THR  culture  of  bulbous  roots  in  a  greenhouse,  or  light 
room,  during  the  Winter,  is  comparatively  easy,  provided  two 
points  be  attended  to;  the  first  is  to  keep  them  near  the  light, 
and  to  turn  the  pots  or  glasses  round  frequently,  to  prevent 
their  growing  crouded  ;  and  the  second  is,  when  the  plants 
have  done  growing,  to  give  them  little  or  no  water; 
for  want  of  attention  to  these  points,  bulbs  have  been  known 
to  produce  foliage,  year  after  year,  without  showing  any 
•ign  of  blossoms. 

All  bulbs  have  a  certain  period  of  the  year  in  which  they 
are  in  a  dormant  state;  this,  in  a  state  of  nature,  is  invariably 
after  the  seeds  are  ripened  ;  but  as  in  a  greenhouse,  many  of 
this  family  do  not  ripen  seeds,  the  cultivator  should  watch 
the  period  when  the  leaves  show  indications  of  decay  ;  at 
which  time,  the  supplies  of  water  should  be  lessened,  and 
shortly  afterwards  the  earth  should  be  suffered  to  get  dry  and 
to  remain  so  until  the  season  returns,  when  the  bulbs  reger- 
rainate. 

Many  sorts  of  bulbs  are  best  kept  in  pots,  under  the  soil, 
in  a  dry  shady  place,  and  in  the  same  temperature  as  that 
in  which  they  are  in  the  habit  of  growing;  but  others,  such 
as  the  Hyacinth,  Tulip,  Narcissus,  &c.  may  be  taken  out  of 
the  soil,  and  preserved  as  before  directed,  until  the  proper 
Reason  for  replanting. 

Dutch  bulbous  roots  intended  for  blooming  in  pots  during 
the  Winter  season,  should  be  planted  during  the  months  of 
October  and  November,  and  be  left  exposed  to  the  open  air 
until  it  begins  to  freeze  ;  and  then  be  placed  in  the  green- 
house, or  in  a  room  where  a  fire  is  usually  made.  They 


CULTURE  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS  IN  ROOMS.       213 

will  need  moderate  occasional  waterings,  until  they  begin  to 
grow  ;  then  they  should  have  abundance  of  air  in  mild 
weather,  and  plenty  of  water  from  the  saucers  nnderrfeath 
the  pots,  whilst  in  a  growing  state ;  and  should  be  exposed 
as  much  as  posible  to  the  sun,  air,  and  light,  to  prevent  the 
foliage  from  growing  too  long,  or  becoming  yellow. 

For  this  purpose,  single  Hyacinths,  and  such  as  are 
designated  earliest  among  the  double,  are  to  be  preferred. 
Single  Hyacinths  are  by  some  held  in  less  estimation  than 
doubJe  ones,  their  colours,  however,  are  more  vivid,  and 
their  bells,  though  smaller,  are  more  numerous  ;  some  of 
the  finer  sorts  are  exquisitely  beautiful ;  they  are  preferable 
for  flowering  in  Winter  to  most  of  the  double  ones,  as  they 
bloom  two  or  three  weeks  earlier,  and  are  very  sweet  scented. 
Roman  Narcissus,  double  Jonquils,  Polyanthus  Narcissus, 
double  Narcissus,  and  Crocuses,  also  make  a  fine  appear- 
ance in  the  parlour  during  Winter.  It  is  a  remarkable 
circumstance  of  the  Crocus,  that  it  keeps  its  petals  expan- 
ded during  tolerably  bright  candle  or  lamp  light,  in  the  same 
manner  as  it  does  during  the  light  of  the  sun.  If  the  candle 
be  removed,  the  Crocuses  close  their  petals,  as  they  do  in  a 
garden  when  a  cloud  obscures  the  sun  ;  and  when  the 
artificial  light  is  restored,  they  open  again,  as  they  do  with 
the  return  of  the  direct  solar  rays. 

Hyacinths  and  other  bulbs  intended  for  glasses,  should  be 
placed  in  them  about  the  middle  of  November,  the  glasses 
being  previously  filled  with  pure  water,  so  that  the  bottom 
of  the  bulb  may  ju^t  touch  the  water  ;  then  place  them  for 
the  first  ten  days  in  a  dark  room  to  promote  the  shooting  of 
the  roots  ;  after  which  expose  them  to  the  light  and  sun  as 
much  as  possible ;  they  will  blossom  without  the  aid  of  the 
sun  ;  but  the  colours  of  the  flowers  will  be  inferior.  The 
water  should  be  changed  as  often  as  it  becomes  impure  ; 
draw  the  roots  entirely  out  of  the  glasses,  rinse  the  fibres  in 
clean  water,  and  also  the  glasses  inside ;  care  should  be 
taken  not  to  suffer  the  water  to  freeze,  as  it  not  only  bursts 
the  glasses,  but  often  causes  the  fibres  to  decay.  Whether 
the  water  be  hard  or  soft,  is  of  no  great  consequence ;  but 
soft,  or  rain  water,  is  generally  preferred,  and  it  must  b« 
perfectly  clear. 


214        CULTURE  OP  BULBOUS  ROOTS  IN  KOOMS. 

Forced  bulbs  are  seldom  good  for  any  thing  afterwards  ; 
however,  those  who  wish  to  preserve  them,  may  immerse 
them  wholly  in  water  for  a  few  days ;  and  then  having 
taken  them  out,  and  dried  them  in  the  shade  for  a  short  time, 
they  m.iy  ba  planted  in  a  good  soil,  which  will  sometimes 
<rause  them  to  flower  the  second  year.  It  does  not  clearly 
appear  in  what  way  the  water  operates  when  the  bulb  ig 
wholly  immersed  ;  but  it  is  certain  that  bulbs  so  treated 
increase  in  size  and  solidity,  and  have  an  incomparably 
better  chance  of  flowering  the  second  year,  than  those  which 
have  not  been  so  treated  ;  most  probably  their  total  immer- 
sion enables  them  to  obtain  a  greater  proportion  of  oxygen 
from  the  water. 

Nosegays  should  have  the  water  in  which  their  ends  arc 
inserted  changed,  on  the  same  principle  as  bulbous  roots  ; 
and  a  much  faded  nosegay,  or  one  dried  up,  may  often  b& 
recovered  for  a  time,  by  covering  it  with  a  glass  bell,  or  cup, 
or  by  substituting  warm  water  for  cold. 

Very  fine  Hyacinths  have  been  grown  in  a  drawing-room, 
in  the  following  novel  manner.  A  quantity  of  moss,  classi- 
cally called  liypnum,  and  vulgarly  fog,  was  placed  in  a 
water-tight  box,  about  eight  or  nine  inches  deep,  into  which 
the  bulbs  were  placed  at  the  end  of  September,  without 
mould  and  duly  watered ;  the  result  of  this  experiment 
was  highly  favourable. 


2)5 
OBSERVATIONS 

ON 

THE     GENERAL     MANAGEMENT 

OF 

GREENHOUSE    PLANTS. 


Having  already  exceeded  my  limits,  I  am  compelled  to 
l>e  brief  in  my  observations  on  such  ornamental  plants  as 
are  generally  cultivated  in  hot  and  greenhouses.  This 
description  of  plants  embraces  those  which  are  collected  from 
yarious  climates,  and  thrive  best  in  a  temperature  and  soil 
similar  to  that  in  which  nature  first  produced  them  :  henoe 
they  who  propagate  exotic  plants,  must  provide  s-  [table 
composts,  and  also  separate  departments,  where  the  differ- 
ent degrees  of  heat  may  be  kept  up  according  to  their 
nature  and  description.  Some  of  these  are  raised  from  seed 
•own  in  the  Spring,  others  by  layers,  suckers,  and  offsets 
detached  from  the  old  plants,  and  many  by  slips  or  cuttings, 
planted  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  according  to  their 
various  natures  and  state  of  the  plants.  Many  kinds  require 
the  aid  of  glass  coverings  and  bottom  heat,  created  by  fresh 
horse-dung,  tan,  &c.  See  calendar  and  index. 

Were  I  to  attempt  to  give  directions  for  the  propagation 
of  all  the  varieties  of  useful  and  ornamental  exotic  plants 
cultivated  in  various  parts  of  our  country,  it  would  require 
several  volumes.  The  catalogue  of  greenhouse  plants 
alone,  kept  by  the  enterprising  proprietor  of  the  Linnean 
Botanic  Garden  at  Flushing,  occupies  fifty  pages  of  close 
matter;  it  would,  therefore,  be  impossible  to  do  justice  to 
the  subject  without  dividing  upwards  of  two  thousand 
species  of  plants  into  classes,  and  treating  of  them  under 
distinct  heads ;  I  shall,  therefore,  not  attempt  in  this  edition 
to  write  largely  on  the  subject. 

In  order  to  render  this  little  work  useful  to  those  who 


MANAGEMENT  OP  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

may  wish  to  avail  themselves  of  the  pleasure  of  nursing 
some  of  those  beauties  of  nature  in  dwelling  or  green* 
houses,  during  the  most  chilling  days  of  our  severe  Winters, 
and  to  afford  amusement  to  the  Ladies  at  a  season  when  our 
gardens  are  deprived  of  their  loveliest  charms,  I  shall  notice 
some  essential  points  connected  with  the  management  of 
greenhouse  plants,  in  as  explicit  a  manner  as  possible,  and 
subjoin  a  brief  catalogue  of  such  species  as  are  most  gene- 
rally cultivated,  of  which  there  are  innumerable  varieties; 
descriptions  of  which,  with  all  the  varied  features  of  the 
floral  kingdom,  may  be  found  in  the  voluminous  works  of 
Loudon,  Sweet,  Chandler,  and  other  English  writers.* 

The  following  hints  which  were  selected  for  the  first 
edition  of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,  appear  to  the 
author  to  embrace  the  most  important  points  connected  with 
the  care  of  plants  in  the  Winter  season. 

The  generality  of  those  denominated  greenhouse  plants, 
and  which  are  kept  in  rooms,  should  be  placed  where  they 
can  have  the  light  of  the  sun,  without  being  exposed  to 
frost.  Air,  heat,  and  moisture  are  essential  to  the  growth 
of  plants  ;  but  these  should  be  given  in  due  proportions, 


*  All  the  most  popular  English  books  on  this  subject,  are  imported 
by  G.  C.  Thorburn,  No.  11  John  Street;  amongst  which  are  the 
following : 

"London's  Encyclopaedia  of  Plants,"  illustrated  by  engravings  and 
with  figures  of  nearly  ten  thousand  species,  exemplifying  several  indi- 
viduals belonging  to  every  genus  included  in  the  work.  Completed  in 
one  large  volume,  8vo.  "  -  $20,00 

•'Loudon's  Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening,"  comprising  the  Theory  and 
Practice  of  Horticulture,  Floriculture,  Arboriculture  and  Landscape 
Gardening;  including  all  the  latest  improvements.  A  new  edition  in 
one  large  volume,  8vo.  closely  printed,  with  upwards  of  700  engra- 
vings, -  -  ^32,00 

"  Chandler  (of  London)  on  the  Camellia;  containing  ample  directions 
for  the  cultivation  of  this  fine  plant,  with  a  superb  plate  of  all  the  present 
known  varieties  in  England.;  one  volume,  4to.  -  -  $45,00 

"Horlus  Brittanicus;"  a  Catalogue  of  Plants  cultivated  in  the 
gardens  of  Great  Britain,  arranged  in  natural  orders,  $3,00 

"The  British  Flower  Garden;"  containing  coloured  figures,  and 
descriptions  of  all  the  most  ornamental  and  curious  plants;  with  their 
scientific  and  English  names ;  best  method  of  cultivation  -end  propaga- 
tion :  the  heights  they  generally  attain ;  or  any  other  information  res- 
pecting them,  that  may  be  considered  useful  or  interesting,  by  R. 
Sweet,  F  L.  3.  &c..  the  drawings  by  E.  D.  Smith,  F.  L.  S.  in  5  volumes, 
8vo.  calf,  and  continued  in  monthly  numbers. — A  splendid  work,  $100 


MANAGEMENT    OP    GREENHOUSE    PLANTS.  217 

according  to  circumstances.  In  frosty  weather  they  should 
be  kept  from  the  external  air,  and  watered  very  sparingly. 
When  water  is  necessary,  it  should  be  applied  in  the  morn- 
ing of  a  mild  sunny  day.  The  plants  should  be  kept  free 
from  decayed  leaves,  and  the  earth  at  the  top  of  the  pots 
should  be  sometimes  loosened  to  a  moderate  depth,  and 
replenished  with  a  portion  of  fresh  compost. 

Plants  kept  in  private  houses  are  often  killed  with  kind- 
ness. The  temperature  of  a  room  in  the  Winter,  need  not 
be  more  than  ten  degrees  above  freezing.  If  plants  are 
healthy  they  may  be  kept  so  by  attention  to  the  preceding 
hints ;  unhealthiness  generally  arises  from  their  being 
subjected  to  the  extremes  of  heat,  cold,  or  moisture,  or  from 
total  neglect. 

In  order  that  the  ideas  above  advanced  may  be  duly 
considered,  it  may  be  useful  to  indulge  in  a  more  minute 
description  of  the  nature  of  plants,  and  to  show  in  what 
manner  the  elements  operate  upon  them.  It  is  an  acknow- 
ledged fact,  that  the  roots  of  plants  require  moisture,  and 
therefore  penetrate  the  earth  in  search  of  it,  and  that  the 
plants  themselves  are  greatly  nourished  by  air,  and  spread 
their  branches  and  leaves  to  catch  as  much  as  possible  its 
enlivening  influence.  Light  also  is  so  far  essential,  that 
there  can  be  no  colour  without  it ;  witness  the  blanching  of 
celery  and  endive,  where  the  parts  deprived  of  light  become 
white  ;  place  a  plant  in  almost  any  situation,  it  will  invari- 
ably show  a  tendency  to  turn  to  the  light ;  the  sunflower  is 
a  striking  example  of  this  singular  fact.  As  the  leaves 
supply  the  plant  with  air,  and  the  fibres  of  the  roots  with 
nourishment,  to  strip  oft*  the  leaves  or  destroy  the  fibres,  is 
to  deprive  it  of  part  of  its  means  of  support. 

Having  shown  that  air  and  water  are  essential  to  vegeta- 
tion, and  light  to  its  colour,  experience  shows  us  that  hear, 
in  a  greater  or  less  degree,  is  not  less  necessary  to  the  growth 
of  plants  ;  it  is  therefore  requisite,  that  in  taking  plants  into 
our  rooms,  we  should  attend  to  these  particulars. 

The  internal  structure  of  plants  is  composed  of  minute 
and  imperceptible  pores,  which  serve  the  same  important 
purpose  in  the  vegetable  as  veins  in  the  animal  system ; 

19 


SIS  MANAGEMENT    OF    GREENHOUSE    PLANTS. 

they  convey  the  circulation  of  the  sap  in  the  former,  as  the 
veins  do  the  blood  in  the  latter;  but  it  is  by  no  means 
settled  as  yet  by  physiologists  how  the  food  of  plants  is  taken 
up  into  the  system,  and  converted  into  their  constituent  parts. 

From  the  foregoing  considerations  and  facts,  it  is  evident, 
that,  as  air,  heat,  and  moisture,  are  each  essential  to  vegeta- 
tion, that  water  should  only  be  given  in  proportion  as  heat 
and  air  are  attainable.  In  the  Summer  season,  greenhouse 
plants  may  be  exposed  to  the  open  air,  from  the  early  part 
of  May,  until  the  end  of  September,  by  being  placed  on  the 
ledges  of  windows,  or  on  a  stand  erected  for  the  purpose, 
or  in  the  absence  of  a  nursery  bed  of  flowering  plants,  they 
may  be  introduced  into  the  regular  flower-beds,  to  supply 
the  place  of  such  plants  as  may  wither  and  die  in  the  course 
of  a  Summer,  by  being  turned  out  of  the  pots  and  planted, 
or  plunged  in  the  earth  with  the  pots. 

In  the  heat  of  the  Summer  season,  plants  generally 
require  water  every  evening,  and  in  the  absence  of  dews, 
the  earth  about  their  roots  may  sometimes  need  a  little  in  the 
morning;  but  experience  shows,  that  the  roots  of  plants 
more  frequently  get  injured  from  being  soddened  with  water, 
than  from  being  kept  moderately  dry. 

Having  before  intimated  that  exotic  plants  will  generally 
thrive  best  in  a  temperature  and  soil  similar  to  that  in 
which  nature  first  produced  them,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
remind  the  reader,  that  we  have  the  means  of  obtaining 
suitable  composts  from  our  own  soils,  and  from  sand, 
decayed  leaves,  rotten  dung,  and  various  kinds  of  peat,  bog, 
and  rock  mould;  these  ingredients  being  judiciously  mixed 
and  prepared,  may  be  suited  to  all  the  various  kinds  of 
plants,  and  should  be  used  as  occasion  requires. 

As  the  roots  of  plants  make  considerable  growth  in  the 
course  of  a  Summer,  it  will  be  necessary  to  examine  them 
by  turning  them  out  of  the  pots  ;"  this  may  be  done  early  in 
September,  at  which  time  all  matted  and  decayed  roots 
should  be  pared  off,  and  the  plants  shifted  into  larger  pots, 
which  being  filled  with  suitable  compost,  and  watered,  will 
be  ready  for  removal  into  the  house  on  the  approach  of 
cold  nights,  which  is  generally  early  in  October. 


MANAGEMENT  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 


219 


Greenhouse  plants  require  an  annual  pruning,  and  should 
be  occasionally  headed  down,  in  order  that  their  size  and 
appearance  may  be  improved  ;  the  best  time  for  doing  this 
is  soon  after  they  have  done  flowering,  and  while  they  are 
in  a  growing  state. 

Having  endeavoured  to  furnish  my  readers  with  the 
artificial  means  of  preserving  tender  plants  in  a  climate 
foreign  to  that  from  which  nature  first  produced  them,  I  shall 
call  their  attention  to  another  class  of  plants  well  calculated 
for  the  windows  of  a  house. 

I  allude  to  the  many  beautiful  varieties  of  the  Chinese^ 
Chrysanthemum;  these  are  frequently  cultivated  in  pots, 
and  may  be  taken  from  the  ground  and  put  into  pots,  even 
when  in  full  flower,  without  injury,  and  when  the  bloom  is 
over,  returned  to  the  garden.  In  the  Spring  following,  they 
will  throw  up  an  abundance  of  suckers. 

The  following  list  contains  some  of  the  best  varieties  of 
the  Chrysanthemum,  and  are  entitled  to  a  place  in  every 
flower  garden.  In  October  and  November,  when  the  waning 
year  has  left  our  gardens  comparatively  cheerless,  these, 
with  their  various  colours,  deck  them  out  in  gaiety,  and 
prolong  the  semblance  of  Summer.  They  are  perfectly 
hardy,  and  will  brave  our  severest  Winters. 


From  the  Catalogue  of  W*  Prince  <$•  Sons,  Flushing,  L.  I. 

The  gold  bordered  red;  ] 

ilie  petals  are   red,  , 

striped  with  golden 
yellow 

White  quilled 
Pale  buff,  or  orange     I 
Changeable,  red  and 

orange  on  same  plant 
Lilac  quilled. 
Rose-coloured,or  pink 
Lilac  and  white,  chan- 
geable ;    the  floicers 

vary  to  lilac,  to  white 

with  a  purple  centre, 

and  to  pure  white 
Darkerimson,orSpan- 

ish  brown 

Straw  coloured  quilled 
Golden  yellow 
Tasselled  White 


Semi-double  quilled  do 
Paper  white 
Quilled  light  purple 
Expanded  do    do 
Quilled  yellow 
Double  Indian  yellow 
Double  Indian    white. 
Dark  purple 
Early  blush 
Golden  lotus 
Quilled  purple 
Starry  purple 
Park's  smallyellowjZne 
Quilled  salmon 
Semidouble  quilled 
Pale  orange 
Two-coloured  red 
Curled  buff,  or  salmon 
Large  lilac 
Late  pale  purple 


Quilled  fine  yellow 

Sulphur  do 

Superb  clustered  do 

Small  do 

Single  flame  yello  w 

Quilled  pink 

Quilled  Orange 

Early  crimson 

Curled  lilac 

Two  coloured incurv'd 

Blush  ranunculus 

Late  quilled  purple 

Tasselled  lilac 

Tasselled  yellow 

Yellow  waratah 

Pale  lilac 

Large  buff,  superb 

Barclay's 

Alton's 

Sabine's. 


220         CATALOGUE  OP  GREENHOUSE  1*LANT£. 

Chrysanthemums  may  be  propagated  from  seed  and  cut- 
tings, and  each  plant  will  produce  several  suckers  which 
may  be  separated  every  Spring.  As  the  flowers  are  liable  to 
be  injured  by  the  rain  in  Autumn,  it  is  advisable  to  take  up 
a  few  plants,  and  place  them  in  a  light  room  or  greenhouse, 
which  will  preserve  them  for  some  time. 

Many  people  keep  their  late  blooming  plants  in  the  house 
through  the  Winter  ;  this  is  a  bad  practice,  as  the  heat  and 
want  of  air  will  exhaust  or  destroy  the  plants  altogether. 
If  the  flowers  fade  before  hard  frost  prevails,  it  is  best  either 
to  plunge  the  pots,  into  the  ground  with  the  plants,  or  to  turn 
them  out  of  the  pots,  and  plant  them,  with  the  balls  of  earth 
entire,  into  the  borders  of  the  flower  garden. 

Early  in  May,  such  as  may  be  intended  for  potting  the 
ensuing  season,  should  be  divided  at  the  roots,  if  not  potted 
and  planted,  each  kind  separate.  One  single  stem  is  suffi- 
cient for  a  moderate  sized  pot,  if  the  object  be  to  bave  bushy 
plants  ;  but  if  showy  plants  are  desired,  one  of  each  of  the 
varied  colours  may  be  selected  for  each  pot,  which  should  be 
sufficiently  capacious  to  hold  them  without  crowding  them, 
as  this  will  cause  the  plants  to  grow  weak  arid  slender.  If 
such  happens  early  in  the  Summer,  a  stocky  growth  may  be 
produced  by  clipping  the  tops,  and  they  will  bloom  in  great 
perfection  in  their  usual  season. 


INTRODUCTION    TO    THE 

CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

To  promote  brevity,  and  avoid  tautology,  I  here  submit 
the  following  statement : 

That  the  directions  accompanying  our  catalogue  of 
Annual,  Biennial  and  Perennial  Flower  Seeds,  will  apply 
to  such  plants  in  the  green-house  department  as  are  ordi- 
narily  raised  from  seed. 

That  the  directions  annexed  to  the  catalogue  of  Flower- 
ing and  Ornamental  Shrubs,  for  propagation  by  cuttings, 
layers,  &c.,  are  applicable  to.  a  great  proportion  of  the 


CATALOGUE    OF  GREENHOUSE    PLANTS.  3gl 

plants  hereinafter  described,  and  that  the  exceptions  are 
shown  in  the  monthly  calendar. 

That  such  Bulbous  roots  as  are  generally  embraced  in 
Greenhouse  Catalogues,  from  their  being  adapted  to  artifi- 
cial culture,  have  been  already  treated  of,  under  each  head, 
in  numerous  articles ;  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

That  with  the  exception  of  Hot-house  plants,  which  re- 
quire a  uniformly  warm  climate  to  perpetuate  their  exist- 
ence, all  such  other  tender  and  half  hardy  plants  as  need 
protection  in  Winter,  may  come  under  the  denomination  of 
Greenhouse  Plants  ;  some  species  however,  notwithstanding 
this  concession,  may  be  preserved  in  frames,  pits,  cellars,  or 
warm  rooms. 

That  many  of  those  species  designated  thus,  §  and 
thus  j  in  our  two  first  catalogues,  are  of  such  description  ; 
and  as  they  have  been  treated  of  in  the  chapters  thereto  an- 
nexed, the  following  catalogue  and  explication  will  be 
necessarily  brief,  when  compared  with  one  general  catalogue 
of  exotic  plants. 


Acacia.  Of  this  and  the  Mimosa,  which  are  by  some  con- 
sidered as  one  genus,  there  are  upwards  of  a  hundred  spe- 
cies and  varieties,  suited  for  artificial  culture.  The  blossoms 
which  are  generally  straw  colour  and  yellow,  except  the 
most  tender,  some  of  which  are  crimson,  succeed  each 
other  from  February  to  June. 

Agapanthus.  A  beautiful  species  of  Lily,  producing  large 
blue  flowers  from  April  to  June  ;  some  varieties  have  striped 
leaves  and  delicate  white  blossoms. 

Aloe.  Of  this  genus,  there  are  numerous  species  and 
varieties,  some  of  which  are  very  curious,  being  possessed  of 
all  the  varied  forms  and  figures  peculiar  to  succulent  plants. 
Some  species  flower  annually  from  March  to  September, 
and  all,  except  the  Century  Aloe,  blossom  frequently;  the 
colours  are  generally  yellow,  pink,  and  red.  The  singular 
figure  and  habit  of  these  plants  render  them  desirable  for 
greenhouse  culture. 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

Arbutus.  European  Strawberry  tree.  A  half-hardy  ever- 
green shrub,  of  which  there  are  several  species  and  varieties, 
producing  crimson  and  pink  blossoms,  and  fruit,  which 
remain  on  the  plant  a  considerable  time. 

Ardesia.  Chinese  Ardesia.  This  is  generally  cultivated 
as  a  hot-house  plant;  and,  if  kept  in  the  greenhouse,  should 
be  placed  in  a  warm  situation.  There  are  several  species, 
producing  oblong  shining  leaves,  pink  flowers  and  red  ber- 
ries, which  are  very  ornamental. 

Aster  argophyllus.  Musk  Plant.  A  plant  of  no  great 
beauty,  but  esteemed  by  some  for  its  musky  fragrance ; 
leaves  ovate,  lanceolate,  and  silky  beneath. 

Aucuba  Japonica.  A  naif-hardy  shrub,  with  pale  green 
Isaves  spotted  with  yellow.  It  produces  small  purple  blos- 
soms, but  is  desirable  for  its  foliage  only  :  to  preserve 
which  in  good  condition,  shade  in  the  Summer  is  absolutely 
accessary. 

Azalea.  The  Chinese  species  of  Azalea  are  numerous 
and  beautiful,  producing  blossoms  of  various  hues,  as  white, 
purple,  scarlet,  yellow,  &c.,  and  some  are  striped  and  spot- 
ted,  which  succeed  each  other  from  February  to  May,under 
good  cultivation. 

Banksia.  A  genus  of  plants  named  in  honour  of  Sir 
Joseph  Banks,  of  which  there  are  over  twenty  species,  all 
curious  in  flower,  and  variable  in  foliage  ;  colours,  yellow 
and  green.  They  generally  blossom  from  May  to  August. 

Beaufortia.  There  are  two  species  of  this  beautiful 
shrub,  yielding  scarlet  and  pink  flowers  from  the  sides  of 
their  stalks,  from  May  to  July. 

Bellis  perennis*  Daisy.  This  half-hardy  dwarf  species 
of  which  there  are  several  varieties, as  recorded  in  our  Peren- 
nial Catalogue,  are  worthy  of  further  notice,  from  their  yield- 
ing thousands  of  button-formed  flowers  from  January  to  July, 
or  until  checked  by  the  Summer  heat,  from  which  they 
should  be  screened,  by  being  planted  in  a  shaded  border 
in  the  Spring.  The  colours  are  white,  red  and  variegated, 
and  some,  called  hen  and  chicken  Daisies,  grow  in  clusters. 

Bletia  tankervilli.  A  delicate  plant,  producing  spikes  of 
purple  flowers,  similar  to  the  Hyacinth,  from  April  to  July. 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  2*23 

Bouvardia.  Mexican  Bouvardia.  A  beautiful  plant,  pro- 
ducing brilliant  scarlet  flowers  from  May  to  September, 
when  carefully  cultivated. 

Boronia.  There  are  several  species  of  this  plant,  natives  of 
New  Holland;  the  flowers  of  some  are  star-like,  rose-coloured 
and  sweet-scented  ;  a*  perfection  in  April  and  May. 

Burchellia.  A  dwarf  evergreen  shrub,  producing  orange 
coloured  flowers  in  large  terminale  clusters,  from  March  to 
June. 

Cactus.  Of  this  family  of  plants  there  are  numerous  spe- 
cies supposed  to  be  of  different  genera,  from  the  variation  of 
their  character  and  habits.  They  belong  to  the  hot-house, 
but  succeed  well  in  a  warm  room  or  good  greenhouse. 
Some  are  formed  into  erect  pyramids,  others  are  of  a  trailing 
habit,  and  all  produce  from  the  sides  of  their  succulent 
stalks  and  leaver,  beautiful  crimson,  white,  or  pink  flower?, 
from  March  to  August. 

Calceolaria.  Of  this  species  of  delicate  dwarf  plants,  there 
are  several  splendid  varieties  annually  raised  from  seed  ; 
producing  red,  yellow  and  orange  coloured  flowers  from 
April  to  August,  when  shaded  from  the  noonday  Sun  ;  they 
will  otherwise  suffer  from  heat. 

Calothamnus.  A  beautiful  evergreen  shrub,  similar  to  a 
dwarf  pine,  producing  scarlet  blossoms  from  the  old  wood, 
from  April  to  November. 

Callicoma  serratifolia.  A  beautiful  plant,  producing  tufted 
yellow  heads  of  flowers  from  May  to  July. 

Camellia.  Of  this  admired  Winter-blooming  genus  or 
plants,  there  are  several  distinct  species,  the  varieties  from 
many  of  which  multiply  annually.  Its  durable  glossy  fo- 
liage, and  splendid  flowers,  which  excel  those  of  any 
other  plant, will  insure  it  a  pre-eminence  in  every  greenhouse; 
as  in  good  collections,  flowers  of  various  hues  may  be 
gathered,  from  October  to  May. 

Ckeiranthus.  Under  this  title  have  been  generally  embra- 
ced all  those  fragrant  and  beautiful  half-hardy  species  of 
Biennial  Plants,  known  as  Wall  and  Gilliflowers  ;  the  lat- 
ter species  is  now  however  denominated  Mathiola  in  our 
catalogues.  The  beautiful  blossoms  and  delicious  fragranc  & 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

of  these  families,  from  February  to  June,  entitle  them  to 
more  than  a  passing  notice.     Their  perfumes  are  exquisite. 

Cineraria  cruenta.  Canary  Aster.  A  dwarf  half-shrub- 
by plant,  producing  purple  blossoms  in  April  and  JMay. 

Cineraria  maritima.  Silvery-leaved  Ragwort,  or  Powder- 
ed Beau.  A  white  plant,  producing  bright  yellow  globular 
flowers  from  April  to  June  or  July. 

Cistus.  Rock  Rose.  A  half-hardy  dwarf  shrub,  of 
which  there  are  upwards  of  twenty  species  natives  of  Eu- 
rope ;  the  flowers,  which  are  white  and  purple,  multiply 
abundantly  in  May  and  June. 

Citrus,  Orange,  Lemon,  &c.  This  genus  embraces  the 
Orange,  Lemon,  Lime,  Shaddock,  &c.  of  each  of  which 
there  are  several  vareties.  They  are  indispensable  in  a 
good  greenhouse,  for  their  handsome  evergreen  foliage, 
most  ordoriferous  blossoms,  and  beautiful  golden  fruit, 
which  by  careful  cultivation  may  be  kept  constantly  on  the 
plants.  Those  varieties  with  variegated,  yellow  and  green 
foliage,  are  very  generally  admired. 

Clethra  arborea  variegata.  A  fine  sweet-scented  shrub, 
producing  spikes  of  white  downy  blossoms;  the  leaves  are 
oblong  and  serrated,  having  a  gold -coloured  edge. 

Correa.  A  genus  of  dwarf  shrubby  plants,  consisting  of 
several  species,  producing  their  orange,  white,  red  and 
green  blossoms  frequently  in  the  Winter,  and  sometimes  in 
May  or  June. 

Coronilla  glauca.  A  desirable  greenhouse  dwarf  shrub, 
yielding  numerous  sweet-scented  yellow  flowers  in  clusters  ; 
from  January  to  April.  There  are  other  varieties  which 
blossom  in  Summer. 

Cotyledon  orbiculata.  Cape  Navelwort.  A  succulent 
plant,  producing  finger-like  suckers  and  successional  joints, 
which  blossom  annually  ;  the  curiosity  of  the  foliage,  how- 
ever, is  its  chief  recommendation. 

Crassula.  A  species  of  dwarf  succulent  plants,  produ- 
cing scarlet  and  variegated  wax-like  flowers  ;  from  April  to 
June  or  July. 

Crinum  amabile.  A  large  beautiful  flowering  bulb,  of 
which  there  are  several  species,  chiefly  calculated  for  hot- 


CATALOGUE    O'F   GREENHOUSE    PLANTS.  225 

house  culture,  where  some  varieties  frequently  yield  three 
stems  of  beautiful  crimson,  purple  or  white  flowers,  in  a 
year. 

Daphne  odora.  A  beautiful  dwarf  evergreen  shrub, 
yielding  white  fragrant  blossoms  in  many-flowered  terminal 
heads,  from  December  to  March.  There  are  other  species 
and  varieties,  one  of  which  has  its  leaves  edged  with 
yellow. 

Diantkvs.  Under  this  name  is  embraced  all  the  admira- 
ble species  of  Carnations,  Picotees,  Pinks,  Sweet  Wil- 
liams, &c.,  recorded  in  our  catalogue  of  Perennials  ;  and 
which  are  in  universal  esteem  for  their  fragrance  and  beauty, 
from  May  to  August.  They  are  all  hardy,  except  the  Car- 
nation and  Picotee  tribes,  which  are  well  deserving  green- 
house or  frame  culture. 

Diosma.  A  dwarf  genus  of  heath-leaved  shrubs,  producing 
numerous  small  flowers  of  a  white  lilac  or  pink  colour ;  some 
varieties  of  which  are  sweet-scented,  from  March  to  May. 

Dryandrus.  To  this  genus  belong  several  species;  similar 
to  the  Banksias',  they  are  delicate  plants,  producing  orange 
and  straw-coloured  thistle-like  flowers-in  abundance. 

Epacris.  This  is  a  native  of  New  South  Wales,  of  which 
there  are  several  species,  mostly  erect  growing  plants, 
varying  from  two  to  four  feet ;  the  leaves  are  small,  and  the 
blossoms  which  in  the  varieties  are  crimson,  pink,  purple 
and  white,  are,  under  good  cultivation,  abundant  from 
January  to  June. 

Erica.  Heath.  Upwards  of  five  hundred  species  and 
varieties  of  this  plant  are  cultivated  in  Great  Britain,  where 
a  continued  succession  of  bloom  is  kept  up  from  January  to 
December;  the  most  prominent  colours  are  white,  scarlet, 
purple,  yellow  and  red.  They  are  desirable  plants  to  culti- 
vate in  any  country,  as  they  furnish  material  for  the  bouquet 
in  Winter,  but  they  must  be  screened  from  the  noon-day 
Sun  in  Summer,  and  only  moderately  watered  ;  as  extremes 
of  drought  or  moisture  are  destructive  to  this  family  of  plants. 

Erythrina.  Coral  Plant.  There  are  several  species  of 
this  plant,  chiefly  adapted  to  the  hot-house,  producing  long 
spikes  of  crimson  or  scarlet  flowers.  Some  keep  them  in 


226  CATALOGUE    OP    GREENHOUSE    PLANTS. 

good  condition  in  a  greenhouse ;  they  must,  however,  be 
well  attended  to,  and  frequently  repotted,  which  will  some- 
times induce  them  to  bloom  two  or  three  times  in  a  year. 

Euphorbia.  There  %re  several  species  of  this  plant 
adapted  to  the  greenhouse;  some  of  which  are  beautiful, 
especially  the  E.  splendens  and  Poinsett's,  scarlet  bachyt'd, 
or  Euphorbia poinsetti.  They  flower  freely  from  December 
to  May,  if  kept  in  a  warm  part  of  the  house. 

Eupatorium  elegans.  A  dwarf  plant,  producing  white 
sweet-scented  flowers  early  in  the  Spring  ;  to  promote  bushi- 
ness,  the  plant,  after  blossoming-,  should  be  closely  pruned. 

Eutaxia  myrtifolia.  A  beautiful  little  evergreen  shrub ; 
foliage  small,  but  very  neat,  furnishing  numerous  red  and 
yellow-coloured  blossoms  from  March  to  May,  under  good 
culture. 

Ficus  elastica.  India-rubber  tree,  and  Ficus  australis, 
are  both  evergreen  plants,  and  grow  luxuriantly  in  a  green- 
house ;  the  foliage,  which  is  large  and  glossy,  is  pink  on  the 
under  side. 

Ficus.  Fig  Tree.  A  plant  easily  cultivated,  of  which 
there  are  many  species  and  varieties,  which  kept  in  pots  or 
tubs,  in  a  temperature  adapted  to  the  Orange  tree,  will  fruit 
freely,  and  ripen  two  crops  a  year. 

Fuchsia.  Ladies  Ear-drop,  Of  this  beautiful  dwarf 
shrub,  there  are  several  varieties,  producing  clusters  of 
small  scarlet  flowers,  the  stamens  of  which  are  encircled 
with  a  petal  of  purple ;  in  bloom  from  April  to  September. 

Gardenia.  Cape  Jasmine.  A  very  popular  evergreen 
plant,  producing  white  fragrant  rose-like  flowers,  from  May 
to  August.  There  are  several  species  and  varieties,  some 
of  which  are  more  dwarfish  than  others,  but  all  are  desirable. 

Gelsemium  nitidum.  Carolina  Jasmine.  A  beautiful 
climbing  evergreen,  producing  in  the  month  of  May,  large 
yellow  trumpet-like  blossoms,  of  delicious  fragrance. 

Gloxinia.  A  desirable  herbaceous  plant,  of  which  there 
are  several  varieties,  yielding  beautiful  showy  flowers;  colours 
blue,  lilac  and  white. 

Gnapalium.     Everlasting  Flower.      Of  this  plant  there 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  227 

are  several  species  or  varieties,  some  of  which  yield  clusters 
of  yellow  flowers,  and  others  red  ;  from  March  to  June. 

Gnidia.  Flax-leaved  Gnidia.  A  dwarf  shrub,  of  which 
there  are  several  varieties,  furnishing  pretty  tubular  and 
corymbose  straw-coloured  flowers  in  the  Winter  and  Spring. 

Heliotropium.  Peruvian  Heliotrope.  A  species  of  soft 
shrubby  dwarf  plants,  which,  when  cultivated  in  a  warm 
situation,  will  yield  abundance  of  delicate  blue  or  purple 
flowers  ;  from  January  to  September. 

Helychrysum.  Eternal  Flower.  There  are  several  spe- 
cies and  varieties  of  this  plant,  producing  soft  downy 
foliage  and  durable  flowers,  which,  if  cut  before  they  are  too 
far  advanced,  will  retain  their  splendour  several  years. 

Hibiscus  Chinensis.  This  half-hardy  herbaceous  plant 
is  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  greenhouse,  as  some  species 
will  yield  flowers  six  inches  in  diameter,  if  well  attended  to 
and  frequently  watered;  the  colours  are  crimson  and  blush. 

Hoya.  Wax  Plant.  A  fine  climbing  species,  adapted  to 
the  hot-house,  the  leaves  being  succulent,  green  and  fleshy, 
require  considerable  heat  and  but  little  water.  Some  pro- 
duce pink  flowers,  and  others  white,  in  April  and  May. 

Hydrangea  hortensis.  The  Hydrangea  is  a  well  known 
deciduous  half-hardy  soft-wooded  shrub,  producing  large 
pink  balls  of  blossom,  when  cultivated  in  a  shaded  border, 
from  May  to  October ;  and  by  mixing  iron  dust  from  a 
blacksmith's  shop  with  the  soil,  or  by  growing  the  plants  in 
swamp  earth,  or  mould  from  decayed  leaves,  the  flowers 
will  become  blue. 

Hypericum.  St.John's-wort.  A  half  hardy  little  plant, 
producing  yellow  flowers  from  April  to  June.  There  are 
several  species,  some  producing  scarlet  blossoms. 

lllicium.  Aniseed  Tree.  A  dwarf  species  of  shrub,  the 
leaves  of  which  when  rubbed,  smell  like  anise;  some  pro- 
duce red,  and  others  yellow  flowers,  in  March  and  April. 

Indigofera.  Indigo  Tree.  A  free-flowering  shrub,  of 
which  there  are  several  species  ;  the  flowers,  which  grow 
in  long  panacles,  are  red,  yellow  and  pink. 

Jasminum.  Jasmine.  Of  this  favourite  genus,  there  are 
several  species  of  various  complexions.  The  Catalonian  Jas- 


228         CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

mine,  or  J.  grandiflorum,  produces  white  fragrant  blossoms  in 
Winter ;  the  Indian  Jasmine,  or  J,  odoratissimum,  and  also 
the  J.  revolutum,  yield  very  sweet-scented  yellow  flowers 
from  April  to  June,  and  the  J.  officinale,  a  climbing  plant) 
blossoms  through  the  Summer. 

Justicia.  The  plants  of  this  genus  are  generally  cultiva- 
ted in  the  hot-house  ;  some  produce  scarlet  flowers  in  large 
terrain  ale  spikes,  from  December  to  March, and  others  purple. 

Kennedia.  A  beautiful  evergreen  climber,  of  which  there 
are  several  species,  producing  blossoms  of  various  hues,  as 
scarlet,  blue,  crimson,  and  purple,  from  February  to  June. 

Lagerstramia.  A  half-hardy  deciduous  plant,  the  roots 
of  which  planted  in  the  garden  in  March,  will  produce  large 
spikes  of  red  flowers,  from  May  to  August. 

Lantana.  A  genus  of  dwarf  shrubs,  which  being  culti- 
vated in  the  hot-house,  or  a  warm  greenhouse,will  yield  their 
blossoms  in  April  and  May  ;  the  species  are  of  various 
colours  ;  yellow,  orange,  pink,  white,  purple,  and  variable. 

Laums  nobilis.  Laurel.  This  evergreen  shrub  is  by 
some  esteemed  for  its  fragrant  leaves  ;  there  are  several  spe- 
cies designated  as  sweet  bay,  royal  bay,  &c.  and  some  spe- 
cies are  without  scent. 

Lavendula.  Lavender.  A  species  of  soft- wooded  half 
hardy  plants  with  narrow  scented  leaves,  yielding  spikes  of 
fragrant  blue  flowers  in  May  and  June. 

Lechenaultia  formosa.  A  dwarf  plant  with  heath-like 
foliage  and  bright  scarlet  blossoms;  in  bloom  a  long  season, 
under  good  culture. 

Leptospermum.  This  genus  is  somewhat  celebrated  from 
the  leaves  of  the  species.  Z».  scoparium  being  used  by  thecrew 
of  Captain  Cook's  ship  as  a  substitute  for  Tea,  the  leaves 
having  an  agreeable  bitter  flavour  ;  the  blossoms  which  are 
small,  are  white. 

Leucadtndron.  Silver  Tree.  A  neat  evergreen  shrub 
with  silvery-like  foliage,  of  which  there  are  several  species, 
all  admirable  for  their  beauty. 

Linum.  Flax,  Two  species  of  this  plant  are  worthy  of 
cultivation  in  a  greenhouse,  where  they  will  bloom  in  Feb- 
ruary and  March.  The  Linum  trigynum  produces  large 


CATALOGUE  OP  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.  229 

yellow  flowers  in  clusters,  and  Linum  ascyrifolium  yields 
spikes  of  blue  and  white  flowers,  which  are  similar  to  those 
of  the  Convolvulus. 

Lychnis  coronata.  Coronet-flowered  Lychnis.  This 
half-hardy  plant,  embraced  in  our  catalogue  of  Perennials,  is 
worthy  of  protection;  from  its  furnishing  numerous  beautiful 
orange  scarlet  flowers,  from  June  to  August.  As  it  yields 
no  seed,  the  roots  should  be  taken  from  the  garden  in 
Autumn,  and  returned  the  ensuing  Spring. 

Magnolia.  Most  of  the  species  of  this  justly-admired 
genus  are  hardy,and  blossom  in  the  Summer;  there  are, how- 
ever, some  of  the  Chinese  varieties,  which  cultivated  in  a 
greenhouse,  will  produce  their  beautiful  purple,  yellow  and 
white  blossoms,  from  January  to  April. 

Melaleucas.  A  beautiful  genus  of  plants,  natives  of  New 
Holland  ;  the  diversity  of  iheir  foliage  and  singularity  of 
flowers,  some  of  which  are  scarlet,  and  shoot  from  the  wood 
like  fringes,  render  them  worthy  of  good  cultivation. 

Mesembryanthemum.  A  genus.of  succulent  plants,  con- 
sisting of  hundreds  of  species  and  varieties,  chiefly  natives  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  vary  greatly  in  their  forms, 
attitudeSjand  habits  of  growth  ;  some  are  upright,others  pro- 
cumbent, some  are  thick,  others  cimeter  or  slender-leaved. 
They  are  all  singular,  and  many  of  them  beautiful.  The  co- 
lours of  theflowers,whichare  of  every  shade,  are  great  orna- 
ments from  May  to  August ;  gome  species  and  varieties  are 
cultivated  as  Annuals  in  the  Flower  Garden,  where  they 
prove  a  great  acquisition. 

Metrosideros.  A  genus  of  Australasian  shrubs,  some 
species  of  which  are  willow  and  others  spear-leaved,  produ- 
cing their  cones  of  scarlet  or  white  flowers,  from  March  to 
May. 

Myrtus.  Myrtle.  A  genus  of  dwarf  evergreen  shrubs, 
of  which  there  are  several  species  and  varieties  ;  the  foliage 
is  chiefly  glossy  and  fragrant,  yielding  numerous  small 
flowers.  There  are  some  species  known  as  Cape  Myrtles, 
,or  Myrsines,  which  aljo  yield  abundance  of  white  and 
purple  fl  »wers  from  March  to  May. 

Nandina  domestica.    Japan  Nandina.    A  half-hardy  ever- 

20 


230  CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS. 

green  shrub  ;  leaves  supra-decompound,  with  entire  lanceo- 
late leaflets  ;  a  kind  of  foliage  that  is  very  rare. 

Nerium.  Oleander.  A  well-known  and  admired  shrub, 
yielding1  clusters  of  rose-like  flowers  from  May  to  September. 
The  Nerium  splendens  is  the  most  esteemed  of  the  red  varie- 
ties ;  the  true  double  white  and  striped  are  very  rare ;  but 
some  of  those  cultivated  for  sale,  producing  semi-double 
flowers,  are  by  no  means  desirable. 

Olea  fragrance.  Dwarf  Olive.  This  variety  of  the  Olive 
recommends  itself  to  notice,  for  its  dwarf  habit  of  growth, 
and  from  the  foliage  and  white  blossoms  being  highly  odo- 
riferous, from  March  to  May. 

Passiflora.  Passion  flower.  Of  this  celebrated  genus  of 
climbing  plants  there  are  several  species  and  varieties,  which 
produce  splendid  flowers  of  various  colours,  red,  blue,  white, 
purple,  scarlet,  &c.  beautifully  contrasted,  and  some  species 
yield  fruit.  They  generally  blossom  from  May  to  Septem- 
ber, and  some  will  flower  in  the  hot-house  in  Winter. 

Pelargoniums  Geranium.  The  species  and  varieties  of 
this  beautiful  genus  is  supposed  to  exceed  a  thousand,  which 
are  of  every  character,  colour,  and  lineament,  and  some  so 
beautifully  blended  as  to  astonish  the  beholder ;  the  agree- 
able fragrance  also,  of  which  many  of  them  are  possessed, 
will  always  render  them  favourites  to  amateur  florists.  The 
best  blooming  season,  is  from  April,  to  June  or  July. 

Pittosporum.  A  Chinese  evergreen  shrub,  with  hand- 
some glossy  foliage,  yielding  numerous  white  clusters  of 
flowers  in  April  and  May,  which  are  of  delicious  fragrance. 
There  are  several  species,  one  of  which  is  variegated. 

Plumbago  capensis.  Cape  Plumbago.  A  beautiful  dwarf 
plant,  with  oblong  leaves,  yielding  numerous  spikes  of  showy 
blue  flowers  nearly  all  the  Summer. 

Polygata  cordati.  Heart-shaped  Polygata.  A  beautiful 
little  plant,  producing  abundance  of  rich  purple  flowers 
nearly  all  the  Winter. 

Protea.  A  beautiful  race  of  plants,  the  foliage  of  which 
is  very  diversified,  and  the  flowers  also  ;  being  red,  white, 
straw,  brown,  green  and  purple,  and  most  of  these  colours 
are  frequently  to  be  seen  on  the  same  plant ;  from  March 
to  June. 


CATALOGUE  OF  GREENHOUSE  PLANTS.         231 

Primula.  In  this  genus  are  embraced  all  the  varieties  of 
the  Primrose,  Polyanthus,  Auricula,  Cowslip,  Oxlip,  &c. 
already  inserted  in  our  Biennial  and  Perennial  catalogues. 
The  flowers,  which  appear  early  in  Spring,  are  mostly 
sweet-scented,  and  of  various  colours,  red,  white,  yellow, 
lilac,  purple,  crimson,  &c.,  which  in  some  are  beautifully 
variegated.  The  above  are  natives  of  England;  besides 
which  are  two  varieties,  white  and  pink,  natives  of  China, 
producing  umbels  of  flowers  ;  from  January  to  May. 

Pyrus  Japonica  alba,  or  Cydonia  Japonica.  One  of  the 
earliest  flowering  dwarf  shrubs  of  the  garden,  producing 
beautiful  blush  flowers ;  there  is  another  variety,  which  pro- 
duces scarlet  blossoms,  already  described  in  our  catalogue 
of  shrubs  us  an  evergreen,  which  is  a  mistake,  they  being 
both  deciduous  shrubs. 

Reseda.  Mignonette.  This  fragrant  little  plant  has 
been  already  treated  of  as  an  annual;  it  may,  however,  be 
kept  under  cultivation  from  January  to  December,  by 
sowing  seed  at  different  seasons  in  a  greenhouse  or  warm 
room. 

Rhododendron.  Rose  Bay.  A  beautiful  genus  of  plants, 
chiefly  natives  of  India,  furnishing  clusters  of  flowers  of 
various  shades,  as  purple,  scarlet  or  crimson,  and  these 
variegated  in  spots  and  flakes ;  from  March  to  May. 

Rosea.  Rose.  This  Queen  of  Flowers,  so  universally 
admired,  nature  seems  to  have  distributed  over  the  whole 
civilized  world ;  and  varieties  have  been  so  multiplied  o^ 
late  years,  as  to  render  it  difficult  to  make  a  judicious  choice; 
many  of  the  new  varieties,  however,  being  shy  bloomers',  are 
not  so  desirable  for  greenhouse  culture  as  the  common 
China  Rose,  a  select  assortment  of  which,  carefully  cultiva- 
ted, will  produce  blossoms  from  January  to  December. 

Rosmarinus.  Rosemary.  A  fragrant  half. hardy  slender 
leaved  plant,  which  has  been  held  in  great  esteem  for  ages. 
In  some  parts  of  Europe  it  is  customary  to  distribute 
sprigs  amongst  the  guests,  at  weddings  and  funerals. 

Ruella.  A  desirable  plant,  of  which  there  are  several 
species  ;  they  produce  purple  or  scarlet  tunnel-shaped  flow- 
ers ;  from  December  to  March. 


232  CATALOGUE  OP  GREENHOUSE    PLANTS* 

Salvia.  Mexican  Sage.  A  free-blooming  plant,  produ- 
cing in  the  different  species,  scarlet  and  blue  flowers  in 
spiked  whorls;  cuttings  of  which,  if  taken  from  stock  plants 
in  the  greenhouse,  early  in  Spring,and  planted  in  good  gar- 
den soil,  will  embellish  the  borders  three  or  four  months  of 
tiie  Summer. 

Scmpervirum  arboreum.  Treehouse  leek.  A  succulent 
plant,  similar  to  the  common  house-leek,  on  a  dwarfish 
stem  ;  by  some  admired  as  an  evergreen. 

Stapelia.  A  genus  of  dwarf  succulent  plants,  producing 
beautiful  purple,  striped,  freckled  and  star-like  flowers, 
within  six  inches  of  the  surface ;  in  its  varieties  from  May  to 
November. 

Stevia1  serrata.  Vanilla-scented  Stevia.  This  plant, 
although  usually  cultivated  as  an  annual,  is  worthy  of 
greenhouse  culture,  from  its  affording  fragrant  and  orna- 
mental materials  for  bouquets  the  whole  Winter. 

Sinlitzia  rcgina.  Queen's  strelitz.  A  beautiful  dwarf 
plant,  producing  from  a  stalk  from  one  to  two  feet  long, 
several  flowers  of  a  bright  yellow,  contrasted  with  blue ;  from 
May  to  September. 

Tecoma  capensis.  A  perennial  plant,  producing 
orange- coloured  trumpet  flowers  in  clusters;  very  similar  to 
the  Bigonia  tribe,  towards  the  end  of  Summer. 

Tkea.  Tea.  Of  this  celebrated  Chinese  plant,  which 
supplies  a  great  proportion  of  the  human  family  with  their 
domestic  beverage,  there  are  two  varieties.  Thea  virdis 
and  Thea  bokea.  The  plants  when  cultivated  in  a  greenhouse, 
are  by  no  means  of  rapid  growth,  nor  are  the  flowers  which 
are  white,  of  any  great  beauty. 

Tussilago  fragrance.  A  half-hardy  herbaceous  Peren- 
nial plant,  by  some  much  esteemed  for  its  heliotrope 
scented  blossoms,  which  spring  up  in  clusters  from  De- 
cember to  March. 

Verbe?ii  tripliylla,  named  in  some  catalogues,  Aloysa 
ritriodora*  A  deciduous  shrub,  generally  admired  for  the 
fragrance  of  its  leaves,  which  is  its  chief  recommendation, 
the  blossoms  which  are  white,  being  small. 

Verbena.     Splendid  Verbena.     A  tribe  of  plants  increas- 


CATALOGUE  OP  «REEMHOUSE  PLANTS.       233 

ing  in  variety  annually,  and  which  already  embrace  every 
shade  of  colour,  scarlet,  blue,  rose,  lilac,  white,  pink,  &c. 
Planted  in  the  flower  borders,  they  impart  beauty  and 
variety  through  the  Summer,  and  cultivated  in  the  green- 
house, they  embellish  it  a  great  part  of  the  Winter. 

Viburnum  tinus.  Laurustinus,  A  much-admired  half 
hardy  evergreea  shrub,  producing  clusters  of  white  blossoms 
from  January  to  May.  There  are  other  species  very 
similar  in  habit,  and  one  with  striped  leaves. 

Viola.  Violet.  Of  those  beauties  of  the  garden,  some 
of  which  are  denominated  "  Florist's  Flowers,"  there  are 
upwards  of  a  hundred  species  and  varieties.  The  early 
Violets  are  highly  fragrant,  and  the  variety  and  beauty  of 
the  Pansey  tribe,  almost  exceed  description  or  conception. 
As  these  splendid  dwarf  plants  decorate  the  greenhouse  and 
flower  borders  from  January  to  December,  they  are  worthy 
of  careful  cultivation. 

Yucca,  aloe-folia,  and  its  beautiful  variety,  variegata,  are 
desirable  plants  to  cultivate,  from  their  singular  appearance, 
contrasted  with  other  plants.  Their  blossoms,  which 
are  white,  grow  in  spikes,  but  the  plants  do  not  flower  much 
until  several  years  old. 


ITJ31  The  annexed  article,  entitled  the  Matrimonial  Gar- 
den,  is  respectfully  submitted  as  an  appendage  to  the 
Flower  Garden,  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 

20* 


234 


THE 


MAN  is  formed  for  social  enjoyment,  and  if  it  be  allowed 
that  "  it  is  not  good  for  man  to  be  alone,"  it  may  be  justly 
inferred  that  it  is  not  good  that  woman  should  be  alone^ 
hence  a  union  of  interests  indicates  a  union  of  persons  for 
their  mutual  benefit.  By  this  union,  a  sort  of  seclusion 
from  the  rest  of  our  species  takes  place  ;  and  as  a  garden 
is  a  retired  apartment,  appropriated  to  culture  and  im- 
provement, the  married  state  may  not  be  inaptly  compared 
with  it  in  many  respects. 

It  is  good  and  honourable  for  the  human  species,  pru- 
dently and  cautiously  to  approach  this  delightful  enclosure. 
Its  entrance  in  general  is  extremely  gay  and  glittering, 
being  strewed  with  flowers  of  every  hue  and  every  fragrance, 
calculated  to  charm  the  eye  and  please  the  taste  ;  but  they 
are  not  all  so  ;  and  as  there  are  many  persons  who  may 
wish  to  enter  this  garden  at  some  time  or  other,  who  are  yet 
strangers  to  its  various  productions,  their  attention  should 
l>e  directed  to  the  cultivation  of  those  plants  which  are 
beneficial,  and  to  the  avoiding  or  rooting  up  of  those  which 
are  injurious. 

And  first,  let  me  caution  adventurers  in  this  garden  not 
to  dream  of  permanent  happiness;  if  you  should  so  dream, 
experience  will  soon  make  you  wiser,  as  such  happiness 
never  existed  but  in  visionary  heads.  If  you  are  desirous 
that  this  garden  should  yield  you  all  the  bliss  of  which  it  is 
capable,  you  must  take  with  you  that  excellent  flower  called 
GOOD  HUMOUR,  which,  of  all  the  flowers  of  nature,  is  the 
most  delicious  and  delicate ;  do  not  drop  it  or  lose  it,  as 
many  do  soon  after  they  enter  the  garden — it  is  a  treasure 
that  nothing  can  supply  the  loss  of.  When  you  get  to  the 
end  of  the  first  walk,  which  contains  about  thirty  steps, 
commonly  called  "the  Honey  Moon  Path,"  you  will  find 
the  garden  open  into  a  vast  variety  of  views,  and  it  is 


MATRIMONIAL  GARDEN.  235 

necessary  to  caution  you  to  avoid  many  productions  in  them 
which  are  noxious,  nauseous,  and  even  fatal  in  their  nature 
and  tendency,  especially  to  the  ignorant  and  unwary. 
There  is  a  low,  small  plant,  which  may  be  seen  in  almost 
every  path,  called  INDIFFERENCE. — This,  though  not  per- 
ceived in  the  entrance,  you  will  always  know  where  it 
grows,  by  a  certain  coldness  in  the  air  which  surrounds  it. 
Contrary  to  the  nature  of  plants  in  general,  this  grows  by 
cold  and  dies  by  warmth  ;  whenever  you  perceive  this 
change  in  the  air,  avoid  the  place  as  soon  as  you  can.  In 
the  same  path  is  often  found  that  baneful  flower  called 
JEALOUSY,  which  I  advise  you  never  to  look  at,  for  it  has  the 
strange  quality  of  smiting  the  eye  that  beholds  it  with  a 
pain  that  is  seldom  or  never  got  rid  of.  Jealousy  is  a 
deadly  flower  ;  it  is  the  aconite  of  the  garden,  and  hag 
marred  the  happiness  of  thousands. 

As  you  proceed,  you  will  meet  with  many  little  crooked 
paths.  I  advise  you  as  a  friend,  never  to  go  into  them  ; 
for  although  at  the  entrance  of  each,  it  is  written  in  large 
letters,  i  AM  RIGHT,  if  you  do  enter,  and  get  to  the  end  of 
them,  you  will  find  the  true  name  to  be  PERVERSENESS. 
These  crooked  paths  occasion  endless  disputes,  and  as  it  is 
difficult  to  make  the  crooked  straight,  it  is  better  to  avoid 
them  altogether,  lest,  as  it  sometimes  happens,  a  total  sepa- 
ration be  the  consequence,  and  you  take  different  paths  the 
rest  of  your  lives.  Near  this  spot,  you  will  meet  with  a 
rough,  sturdy  plant,  called  OBSTINACY,  which  bears  a  hard 
knotty  fruit  that  never  digests,  and  of  course  must  injure 
the  constitution;  it  even  becomes  fatal,  when  taken  in  large 
quantities.  Turn  from  it,  avoid  it  as  you  would  the 
cholera. 

Just  apposite  to  this,  grows  that  lovely  and  lively  shrub, 
called  COMPLIANCE,  which,  though  not  always  pleasant  to 
the  palate,  is  very  salutary,  and  leaves  a  sweetness  in  the 
mouth  ;  it  is  a  most  excellent  shrub,  and  produces  the 
most  delicious  fruit. — Never  be  without  a  very  large  sprig 
in  your  hand ;  it  will  often  be  wanted  as  you  go  along,  /or 
you  cannot  be  happy  without  it  in  any  part  of  the  garden. 
In  one  of  the  principal  compartments,  stands  a~  very  im- 


236 


THE    MATRIMONIAL    GARDEN. 


portant  plant,  called  ECONOMY  ;  it  is  of  a  thriving  quality  ; 
cultivate  this  fine  plant  with  all  your  care;  for  it  adorns 
and  enriches  at  the  same  time.  Many  overlook  it,  some 
despise  it,  and  others  think  that  they  will  never -want  it ; 
it  is  generally  overlooked  in  the  gaiety  and  levity  with  which 
people  enter  this  place,  but  the  want  of  it  is  generally 
deplored  with  bitter  repentance.  There  are  two  other 
plants  of  the  same  species,  which  are  very  closely  connected, 
called  INDUSTRY  and  FRUGALITY,  and  I  mnst  take  leave  to 
tell  you,  that  unless  both  the  male  and  the  female  partake 
largely  of  their  branches,  very  little  success  can  be  expected  ; 
in  this  they  must  both  unite.  Take  care  that  you  provide 
yourself  and  partner  with  a  supply  of  each  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible after  you  enter  the  garden. 

There  are  two  or  three  paths  which  run  much  into  one 
another,  and  deserve  the  closest  attention  of  the  softer  sex ; 
I  mean  REGULARITY,  EXACTNESS,  and  SIMPLICITY.*  Do  not 
think,  as  some  do,  that  when  you  have  once  got  into  the 
garden,  you  may  be  neglectful  of  these  paths.  Remember 
that  your  companion  will  see  your  neglect,  which  will  affect 
his  eye,  and  may  alienate  his  heart.  Enter  on  these  depart- 
ments, then,  as  soon  as  you  enter  the  garden,  and  when 
you  are  once  fairly  in,  you  are  in  for  life ;  the  danger  is 
that  if  you  do  not  get  into  them  at  an  early  period,  you  will 
not  find  them  afterwards.  Near  these  walks  is  to  be  found 
that  modest  plant,  called  HUMILITY  i 

It  is  the  Violet,  "  born  to  blush  unseen, 
And  waste  its  sweetness  on  the  desert  air." 

It  appears  of  little  worth  in  itself,  but  when  joined  with 
other  virtues,  it  adds  a  charm  to  life,  and  spreads  a  fragrance 
around  its  wearer.  Cultivate,  then,  with  all  your  care,  this 
sweet  little  plant,  and  you  will  find  it  prevent  the  growth  of 
all  poisonous  and  noxious  weeds. 

Allow  me  also  to  drop  a  hint  on  the  subject  of  CULTIVA- 
TION, as  connected  with  PROPAGATION,  as  that  most  probably 
will  be  your  employment  in  this  garden,  sooner  or  later. 
Should  you  have  the  rearing  of  a  young  plant,  remember 

*  In  deportment  as  well  as  in  dress. 


THE    MATRIMONIAL    GARDEN.    *  237 

that  it  is  frail  in  its  nature,  and  liable  to  be  destroyed  by 
every  blast,  and  will  demand  all  your  care  and  attention. 
Should  you  witness  a  blast  on  its  dawning  beauties, 
Oh  !  how  your  fond  heart  will  bleed  with  tenderness,  affec- 
tion, and  sympathy  !  The  young  shoot  will  naturally  twine 
around  all  the  fibres  of  your  frame.  Should  it  live  and 
^hrive,  spare  no  pains  to  "train  it  up  in  the  way  it  should 
go."  Weed  it,  water  it,  prune  it ;  it  will  need  all  the  cul- 
tivator's skill.  Without  this,  many  weeds  and  baneful 
plants  will  grow  up  with  it,  and  blast  your  fondest  hopes. 
Be  ever  mindful  that  this  is  a  TRUST  for  which  both  parties 
are  accountable. 

Without  careful  cultivation,  what  can  you  expect  but  the 
most  luxuriant  growth  of  unruly  appetites,  which,  in  time, 
will  break  forth  in  all  manner  of  disgraceful  irregularities  1 
What,  but  that  ANGER,  like  a  prickly  thorn,  will  arm  the 
temper  with  an  untractable  moroseness  ?  That  PEEVISH- 
NESS, like  a  stinging  nettle,  will  render  the"  conversation 
irksome  and  forbidding  1  That  AVARICE,  like  some  choking 
weed,  will  teach  the  fingers  to  gripe,  and  the  hands  to  op- 
press I  That  REVENGE,  like  some  poisonous  plant,  replete 
with  baneful  juices,  will  rankle  in  the  breast,  and  meditate 
mischief  to  its  neighbour.  While  unbridled  LUSTS,  like 
swarms  of  noisome  insects,  taint  each  rising  thought,  and 
render  "every  imagination  of  the  heart  only  evil  continu- 
ally?" Such  are  the  usual  products  of  unrestrained  nature  ! 
Such  the  furniture  of  the  uncultivated  mind  ! 

By  all  means,  then,  pay  due  attention  to  culture.  By 
suitable  discipline,  clear  the  soil;  by  careful  instruction, 
implant  the  seeds  of  virtue.  By  skill  and  vigilance,  prune 
the  unprofitable  and  over-luxuriant  branches  : — "  direct  the 
young  idea  how  to  shoot," — the  wayward  passions  how  to 
move.  The  mature  man  will  then  become  the  chief  orna- 
ment of  the  garden.  Around  him  CHARITY  will  breathe  her 
sweets,  and  in  his  branches  HOPE  expand  her  blossoms 
In  him  the  personal  virtues  will  display  their  graces,  and  the 
social  ones  their  fruit — the  sentiments  become  generous, 
the  carriage  endearing,  the  life  useful,  and  the  end  happy 
and  peaceful. 


238 


"Marriage  is  to  a  woman  at  once  the  happiest  and  the 
saddest  event  of  her  life  ;  it  is  the  promise  of  future  bliss, 
raised  on  the  death  of  all  present  enjoyment.  She  quits  her 
home,  her  parents,  her  companions,  her  occupations,  her 
amusements,  every  thing  on  which  she  has  hitherto  depen- 
ded for  comfort,  for  affection,  for  kindness,  for  pleasure. 
The  parents  by  whose  advice  she  has  been  guided,  the  sister 
to  whom  she  has  dared  impart  every  embryo  thought  or 
feeling,  the  brother  who  has  played  with  her,  by  turns  the 
counsellor  and  the  counselled,  and  the  younger  children  to 
whom  she  has  hitherto  been  the  mother  and  the  playmate, 
all  are  to  be  forsaken  at  one  fell  stroke  ;  every  former  tie  is 
loosened,  the  spring  of  every  hope  and  action  is  to  be  chan- 
ged ;  and  yet  she  flies  with  joy  into  the  untrodden  path  be- 
fore her ;  buoyed  up  with  the  confidence  of  requited  love, 
she  bids  a  fond  and  grateful  adieu  to  the  life  that  is  past, 
and  turns  with  excited  hopes  and  joyous  anticipation  of  the 
happiness  to  come.  Then  wo  to  him  who  can  blight  such 
fair  hopes — who  can  treacherously  lure  such  a  heart  from 
its  peaceful  enjoyment,  and  the  watchful  protection  of  home 
— who  can  coward-like,  break  the  illusions  that  have  won 
her,  and  destroy  the  confidence  which  love  had  inspired. 
Wo  to  him  who  has  too  early  withdrawn  the  tender  plant 
from  the  props  and  stays  of  moral  discipline  in  which  she 
has  been  nurtured,  and  yet  make  no  effort  to  supply  their 
place;  for  on  him  be  the  responsibility  of  her  errors — on 
him  who  has  first  taught  her,  by  his  example,  to  grow  care- 
less of  her  duty,  and  then  exposed  her  with  a  weakened  spirit, 
and  unsatisfied  heart,  to  the  wide  storms  and  the  wily 
temptations  of  a  vicious  world." — Ladies'  Companion. 


239 


OBSERVATIONS 


FRUIT  GARDEN  AND  ORCHARD 


IN  my  preliminary  observations  on  the  subjects  I  have 
hitherto  treated  on,  I  am  aware  that  it  may  appear  to  some, 
that  I  have  not  sufficiently  urged  the  importance  of  a 
judicious  selection  of  situation,  exposure,  aspect,  soil,  &c. 
My  object  in  not  insisting  on  a  strict  attention  to  these 
important  points  was,  because  I  know,  that  though  good 
land  is  abundant  in  this  extensive  country,  it  is  impossible 
for  every  one  to  choose  for  himself;  and  rather  than  any 
disadvantages  in  these  respects,  should  discourage  pro- 
prietors of  land  from  attempting  to  raise  garden  products, 
so  necessary  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  every 
family,  I  have  endeavoured  to  show  them  how  to  use  to 
advantage  whatever  land  may  surround  their  places  ef 
abode.  As,  however,  some  have  a  choice,  it  may  be  ne- 
cessary to  offer  some  further  remarks  on  the  subject. 

The  situation  of  an  Orchard  or  Fruit  Garden  should  be 
one  that  has  the  advantage  of  a  free  circulation  of  air,  and 
is  well  exposed  to  the  South,  also  to  incline  a  little  to  the 
East,  and  South- west.  "When  the  situation  is  low  and  close 
the  trees  are  very  liable  to  become  mossy,  which  always 
injures  them,  by  closing  up  the  pores  of  the  wood  ;  they  are 
also  more  liable  to  be  affected  by  blight.  Although  having 
an  Orchard  closely  pent  up  by  trees,  &c.,  is  injurous, 
nevertheless  a  screen  of  forest  trees,  at  such  a  distance  from 
the  fruit  trees,  as  that  the  latter  will  not  be  shaded  by  them, 
is  of  very  great  service  in  protecting  the  trees  in  Spring  from 
severe  cold  winds. 


$40  OBSERVAflONfc  ON 

A  good  strong  loamy  soil,  not  too  retentive  of  moisture,  to 
the  depth  of  thirty  inches,  or  three  feet,  is  most  suitable  for  an 
Orchard.  Great  attention  must  be  paid  to  the  substratum, 
so  that  the  ground  is  well  drained,  for  if  the  top  soil  be  ever 
so  good  and  the  bottom  be  we!,  it  is  a  very  rare  case  to  find 
that  the  trees  will  prosper  for  many  years,  before  they  begin 
to  be  diseased  and  go  to  decay.  As  it  is  so  indispensably 
necessary  to  the  success  of  fruij  trees  that  the  bottom  be  dry, 
if  it  be  not  naturally  so,  it  must  be  made  so,  by  judicious 
draining. 

When  it  is  necessary  to  make  the  bottom  dry  by  draining-, 
it  must  be  done  for  some  time  before  the  trees  are  planted. 
In  performing  this  work,  the  ground  must  be  trenched,  and 
when  the  trench  is  open,  stone,  or  brick-bats,  <fcc.  must  be 
laid  over  the  bottom  to  the  thickness  of  six  inches,  a  little 
coal  ashes,  or  small  gravel,  must  be  sprinkled  over  the  top 
of  the  stones,  &e.,  and  then  the  surface  be  gently  rolled. 
Also  drains  may  be  made  in  different  directions,  so  that 
any  excess  of  moisture  can  be  taken  entirely  away  from  the 
ground. 

It  is  well  known  to  most  cultivator?,  that  exposure  of 
soils  to  the  atmosphere  greatly  improves  them,  as  is  expe- 
rienced by  ridging  and  trenching.  Where  the  soil  is  stiff 
and  stubborn,  small  gravel,  sand,  coal  ashes,  lime,  light 
animal  and  vegetable  manure,  and  other  light  composts,  are 
very  appropriate  substances  to.be  applied,  and  will,  if  care- 
fully managed  and  well  worked  into  the  ground,  soon  bring 
it  into  a  proper  condition  for  most  purposes. 

Previous  to  laying  out  an  Orchard  or  Fruit  Gctrdcn,  the 
soil  should  be  manured  and  pulverized  to  a  great  depth, 
It  should  be  made  sweet,  that  the  nutriment  which  the  roots 
receive  may  be  wholesome ;  free,  that  they  may  be  at  full 
liberty  to  range  in  quest  of  it ;  and  rich,  that  there  may  be 
no  defect  in  food. 

If  Orchards  be  made  from  meadows  or  pasture  lands,  the 
ground  should  be  improved  as  much  as  possible  by  manur- 
ing, trenching, -ploughing,  &c.  If  this  is  not  done  to  its 
full  extent,  it  should  be  done  in  strips  of  at  least  six  feet  in 
width  along  where  the  fruit  trees  are  to  be  planted,  and  at 


ORCHARD  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN.  241 

tfee  time  of  planting  let  the  holes  be  dug  somewhat  larger 
than  is  sufficient  to  admit  the  roots  in  their  natural  position, 
and  of  sufficient  depth  to  allow  of  a  foot  of  rich  and  well 
pulverized  mould  to  be  thrown  in  before  the  trees  are 
planted. 

In  transplanting  fruit  trees,  they  should  be  placed  two 
or  three  inches  deeper  than  they  were  in  the  nursery  bed, 
and  the  earth  intending  for  filling  in,  should  be  enriched  and 
vrell  pulverized  by  mixing  in  some  good  old  manure,  and  if 
any  leaves,  decayed  brush,  rotten  wood,  potatoe  tops,  or 
other  refuse  of  a  farm  be  attainable,  let  such  be  used  around 
the  trees  in  filling,  taking  care  that  the  best  pulverized 
mould  be  admitted  among  the  fine  roots.  The  trees  in 
planting  should  be  kept  at  ease,  and  several  times  shaken, 
so  as  to  cause  an  equal  distribution  of  the  finer  particles  of 
earth  to  be  connected  with  the  small  fibres  of  the  roots; 
and  when  completely  levelled,  let  the  ground  be  well  trodden 
down  and  moderately  watered,  which  should  be  repeated 
occasionally  after  spring  planting,  if  the  weather  should 
prove  fry. 

As  some  difference  of  opinion  exists  among  practical  men 
as  to  the  best  time  for  planting  fruit  trees,  the  folio  wing  extract 
from  Mr.  Prince's  Treatise  on  Horticulture  is  submitted  : 

"SEASONS  FOR  TRANSPLANTING. — Spring  is  the  season 
when  we  find  the  most  pleasure  in  making  our  rural  irar 
provements,  aivj  from  this  circumstance  probably  it  has 
become  the  general  season  for  planting  trees,  but  experi- 
ence has  proved  the  Fall  planting  to  be  the  most  successful, 
especially  in  those  parts  of  the  United  States  which  are 
subject  to  droughts,  as  the  trees  planted  in  Autumn  suffer 
little  or  none  from  drought,  when  those  set  out  in  Spring 
often  perish  in  consequence  of  it.  Notwithstanding,  with 
regard  to  those  fruits  that  hare  been  originally  brought  from 
warmer  climates,  such  as  the  Peach,  Apricot,  Nectarine, 
and  Almond,  which  are  natives  of  Persia,  Armenia,  &c.,  it 
is  necessary  for  us  to  consult  the  operations  of  climate  also; 
and,  from  a  consideration  of  those  attendant  circumstances, 
I  have  come  to  the  following  conclusions.  In  localities 

21 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE"  % 

South  of  New- York,  the  Fall  season  is  preferable  only  for 
the  Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  Cherry,  Quince,  and  all  other  trees 
of  Northern  latitude  j  whereas,  the  Spring  is  to  be  preferred 
for  the  Peach,  Apricot,  Nectarine,  and  Almond,  which  for 
the  reasons  before  stated,  might,  during  severe  Winters, 
suffer  from  the  intensity  of  the  frosts.  Still  I  do  not  mean 
to  assert,  that  trees  of  those  kinds  are  certain  to  be  injured 
by  the  Winter,  as  in  very  many  seasons  they  are  not  in  the 
least  affected ;  still  they  are  exposed  to  vicissitudes  which 
may  or  may  not  occur.  Many  gentlemen,  however,  of  ex- 
cellent judgment,  make  their  plantations  in  the  Autumn, 
which  only  serves  to  prove,  that  even  in  the  most  intelligent 
minds,  a  diversity  of  opinion  exists. 

"TREES,  &c.  ON  THEIR  ARRIVAL  AT  THE  PLACE  OP  DES- 
TINATION.— As  soon  as  the  trees  arrive  at  the  place  where 
they  are  to  be  planted,  let  a  trench  be  dug  in  cultivated 
ground,  the  bundle  unpacked,  and  the  roots  well  wet,  and 
immediately  covered  with  earth  in  the  trench,  observing  to 
make  the  earth  fine  that  is  spread  over  them,  so  as  not  to 
leave  vacancies  for  the  admission  of  air  to  the  dry  roots,  it 
having  been  found  by  experience  that  the  thriftiness  of  trees 
the  first  year  after  transplanting,  depends  much  on  the  fine 
fibres  of  the  roots  being  kept  moist,  and  not  suffered  to  dry 
from  the  time  they  are  taken  up  until  they  are  replanted  ; 
their  increase,  therefore,  must  depend  principally  on  the 
subsequent  management  on  their  arrival  at  the  place  of  des- 
tination :  for  if,  when  the  bundles  are  unpacked,  the  trees 
are  carelessly  exposed  to  drying  winds,  the  young  fibres  of 
the  roots  must  perish,  and  the  trees,  if  they  live  at  all, 
cannot  thrive  the  first  season,  as  they  can  receive  little  or 
no  nourishment  until  these  fibres  are  leplaced. 

"To  CAUSE  THE  TREES  TO  THRIVE. — The  ground  u  he  re 
they  are  planted  must  be  kept  cultivated  ;  young  trees  will 
not  thrive  if  the  grass  be  permitted  to  form  a  sod  around 
them,  and  if  it  should  be  necessary  to  plant  them  in  grass 
grounds,  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  the  earth  mellow  and 
free  from  grass  for  three  or  four  feet  distant  around  them, 


ORCHARD  AND  FRUIT  GARDEN,    ,  243 

and  ever/  Autumn  some  well  rotted  manure  should  be  dug 
in  and  around  each  tree,  and  every  Spring  the  bodies  of  the 
Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  and  Cherry  Trees,  and  others  that  it  is 
particularly  desirable  to  promote  the  growth  of,  should  be 
brushed  over  with  common  soft  soap,  undiluted  with  water ; 
this  treatment  will  give  a  thriftiness  to  the  trees  surpassing 
the  expectation  of  any  one  who  has  not  witnessed  its  effect. 
Should  the  first  season,  after  transplanting  prove  dry,  regu- 
lar watering  will  be  necessary,  as  from  neglect  of  proper 
attention  in  this  respect,  many  lose  a  large  portion  of  their 
trees  during  a  drought." 

Such  kinds  of  fruit  trees  treated  upon  in  this  work,  as 
may  require  any  other  than  good  ordinary  soil,  may  be  sup- 
plied, by  judicious  management ;  and  if  a  proper  attention 
be  paid  to  the  situation  and  aspect  in  arranging  a  Fruit 
Garden,  each  kind  may  be  so  accommodated  as  to  promote 
its  fruits'  ripening  earlier  or  later  than  the  ordinary  season, 
by  varying  the  aspect ;  but  Grape  Vines,  or  other  tender 
fruits,  should  not  be  planted  where  the  Sun's  influence  does 
not  fully  operate. 

Where  there  is  a  great  extent  of  close  fencing  or  wall,  it 
is  advisable  to  plant  trees  of  the  same  kind  against  different 
aspects.  Such  as  one  or  two  May  Duke  Cherries  against  a 
South  aspect,  which  will  ripen  earliest;  next,  against  either 
an  East  or  West,  and  lastly,  against  a  North  aspect;  by 
observing  this  method  with  Dwarf  Cherries,  Plums,  Goose- 
berries, Currants,  &c  the  fruit  will  ripen  in  succession,  and 
thus  a  supply  of  them  is  considerably  lengthened.  The  earlv 
blooming  fruit  trees  will  sometimes  need  protection  in  warm 
aspects  ;  for  which  arrangements  may  be  made  by  keeping 
awning,  matting,  netting,  &c.  nt  hand,  to  shelter  them  with, 
in  threatening  weather,  or  to  screen  them  from  the  intense 
heat  of  the  Sun  after  a  frosty  night ;  this,  with  a  sprinkling 
of  water,  as  the  air  gets  warm,  will  often  prevent  any  serious 
conseqnences  from  slight  frost. 

Those  who  have  various  soils,  should  suit  them  to  the 
different  kinds  of  fruit.  Apples  and  Pears  require  a  strong 
loam,  but  rather  the  lightest  for  the  Pear.  Apricots,  Cher- 
ries, Peaches,  Plums,  and  Nectarines,  a  good  deal  lighter 


244  OBSERVATIONS  ON  INSECTS. 

than  for  the  Apple  and  Pear.  Such  fruits  as  may  require 
peat,  bog,  or  any  other  extraordinary  kinds  of  earth,  will  be 
noticed  as  we  proceed 


OBSERVATIONS 

ON  INSECTS,  AND  DISEASES    TO  WHICH    FRUIT  TKEES  ARE 
LIABLE. 

MUCH  may  be  written  relative  to  the  various  diseases  to 
which  fruit  trees  are  liable,  and  also  to  the  prevention  and 
destruction  of  the  various  kinds  of  reptiles  and  insects, 
which  very  frequently  deprive  us  of  the  first  fruits  of  our 
garden.  The  preventive  operations  are  those  of  the  best 
culture.  Autumn  ploughing,  by  exposing  worms, grubs,  the 
larva?  of  bugs,  beetles,  &c.,  to  the  intense  frost  of  our  Win- 
ters, and  the  moderate  use  of  salt,  lime,  ashes,  &c.  are 
beneficial.  Insects  may  be  annoyed,  and  sometimes  their 
complete  destruction  effected,  by  the  use  of  soap-suds,  He, 
tar,  turpentine,  sulphur,  pepper,  soot,  decoction  of  elder, 
walnut  leaves,  tobacco, and  other  bitter  and  acrid  substances  ; 
but  perhaps  the  most  effectual  way  of  keeping  some  of  the 
most  pernicious  kinds  of  insects  under,  is  to  gather  up  such 
fruit  as  may  fall  from  the  trees,  before  the  insects  have  an 
opportunity  of  escaping  into  the  earth,  or  to  other  places  of 
shelter. 

Where  trees  are  planted  in  a  bad  soil,  or  unfavourable 
situations,  they  often  become  diseased;  when  this  happens, 
the  best  remedy  is  good  pruning,  and  keeping  the  trees 
clean,  by  a  free  use  of  soap  and  water.  If  that  will  not  do, 
they  may  be  headed  down,  or  removed  to  a  better  situation. 
Barrenness  and  diseases  are  generally  produced  by  the  bad 
qualities  of  earth  and  air,  by  a  want  of  water,  or  by  the 
inroaJs  of  insects.  These  incidents  generally  show  them- 
selves in  the  early  part  of  the  year.  Leaves  and  shoots  of 
any  colour  but  the  natural  green  ;  curled  and  ragged  leaves  ; 
branches  in  a  decaying  state ;  shoots  growing  from  the 
roots,  instead  of  from  the  stem  or  trunk;  the  stern  diseased 


AND    DISEASES    OF    FRUIT    TREES.  245 

in  its  bark,  and  gum  oozing  from  various  parts  thereof,  are 
all  proofs  of  the  existence  of  disease.  The  Peach  tree  is 
subject  to  a  disease  called  the  yellows  ;  and  the  discoloured 
leaves  and  feeble  branches  are  often  ascribed  to  the  worms 
which  so  frequently  attack  the  root;  where  these  are  found, 
they  may  be  removed  by  a  knife  or  chisel ;  but  if  it  should 
appear  that  the  tree  is  diseased,  it  should  be  removed,  to 
prevent  other  trees  from  being  infected.  The  Pear,  and 
also  the  Quince,  and  sometimes  other  trees,  are  subject  to 
the  fire  blight;  this  malady  may  be  completely  checked  on 
its  first  appearance,  by  cutting  off  and  immediately  burning 
the  injured  branches.  Generally  speaking,  careful  pruning, 
cleaning  the  bark  all  over  with  a  brush,  applying  soap  or 
tobacco  water  to  the  leaves,  and  occasionally  putting  good 
earth  and  good  manure  to  the  roots,  will  remedy  most 
diseases  in  fruit  trees  ;  removing  them  from  a  bad  to  a  better 
soil,  will,  of  course,  effect  this,  where  it  proceeds  from  a 
poorness  of  land  ;  for  the  old  adage,  **  remove  the  cause» 
and  the  effect  will  cease,"  will  be  here  exemplified.  To 
cure  the  oozing  of  the  g  im,  nothing  is  more  necessary  than 
to  cut  away  the  diseased  parts  of  the  bark  ;  and  by  thus 
assisting  nature  in  casting  out  the  excrementitious,  or 
noxious  juices,  a  complete  cure  may  be  effected. 

When  a  tree  is  affected  by  mildew,  let  it  be  immediately 
sprinkled  with  soap-suds,  and  then  be  dusted  over  with  sul- 
phur and  tobacco  dust,  or  snuff;  at  the  same  time,  dig 
around  the  tree,  and  examine  the  soil,  and  sub-soil;  if  it  be 
wet  and  cankery,  it  should  be  taken  away,  and  replaced  with 
good  healthy  soil,  and  the  ground  drained  ;  if,  on  the  con- 
trary, the  ground  be  dry,  give  .it  a  plentiful  watering;  the 
same  remedy  may  serve  as  a  preventive  of  the  extension  of 
blight,  if  taken  in  time.  When  any  canker  is  observed, 
the  part  affected  must,  at  the  time  of  pruning,  be  cut  clean 
out,  and  the  part  thus  dressed  be  pared,  so  that  no  water  be 
able  to  lodge  in  the  wound  ;  when  this  is  done,  let  a  quantity 
of  soot  be  mixed  up  with  water,  after  which,  let  a  little  train 
oil  be  well  worked  amongst  it,  but  so  that  the  mixture 
finally  remain  stiff;  this  may  be  plastered  over  all  the 
wounds  that  have  been  pruned.  The  application  of  this 

21* 


246  OBSERVATIONS  ON  INSECTS, 

mixture  keeps  out  the  wet  from  the  wounds,  where  it  would 
be  likely  to  lodge,  and  both  the  soot  and  oil  promote  vegeta- 
tion. When  trees  are  cankery  from  having  a  bad  sub-soil, 
it  is  in  vain  to  apply  any  remedy  till  the  ground  is  properly 
drained,  and  some  fresh  soil  mixed  with  the  natural  soil, 
also  the  tree  replanted.  When  trees  are  known  to  be  so 
situated  as  to  be  particularly  liable  to  the  attacks  of  insects 
or  disease,  they  should  be  attended  to  at  the  time  of  Winter 
or  early  Spring  pruning,  in  order  to  destroy  the  insects  in 
their  larva?  state. 

The  following  compositions  have  been  known  to  protect 
fruit  trees  from  the  attacks  of  numerous  insects,  by  berng 
used  as  a  wash  to  the  tr<5es  immediately  after  pruning. 
The  constitution  of  some  trees  will  bear  a  much  stronger 
mixture  of  ingredients  than  others;  but  the  proportions,  as 
hereafter  described,  will  not  be  injurious  to  any,  but  will 
be  effectual  in  the  destruction  of  the  larvae  of  insects. 

For  Apricot,  Nectarine,  and  Peach  Trees, — To  eight 
gallons  of  water  add  one  pound  of  soft  soap,  two  pounds  of 
common  sulphur,  and  half  an-ounce  of  black  pepper. 

For  Apple,  Cherry,  Pear,  and  Plum  Trees. — To  four 
gallons  of  water  add  one  pound  of  soft  soap;  two  pounds  of 
common  sulphur,  two  ounces  of  tobacco,  and  one  ounce  of 
black  pepper. 

For  Figs  and  Vines. — To  four  gallons  of  water  add  half 
a  pound  of  soft  soap,  one  pound  of  sulphur,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  black  pepper. 

All  these  ingredients  must  be  boiled  together  for  twenty 
minutes  at  least,  and  when  in  a  lukewarm  state,  applied  to 
the  bark  of  the  trees  with  a  suitable  brush. 

The  most  destructive  enemy  to  our  fruits,  is  the  Curculio  ^ 
this  insect  passes  the  Winter  in  the  earth  in  a  chrysalis  state, 
and  if  suffered  to  remain  unmolested  by  the  gardener,  will 
be  ready  to  commence  his  attacks  at  about  the  time  the 
blossoms  appear  on  our  fruit  trees.  The  eggs  are  depo- 
sited in  the  Apple,  Pear,  and  all  stone  fruit,  at  a  very  early 
stage  of  their  growth  ;  these  eggs  soon  hatch,  and  small 
maggots  are  produced,  which  exist  in  the  fruit,  causing  it  to 


DISEASES    OF  FRUIT  TREES.  247 

drop  off  prematurely,  with  the  little  enemy  within.  If  this 
fruit  be  gathered  up,  or  immediately  devoured  by  hogs, 
geese,  or  other  animals,  a  check  may  be  put  to  their 
ravages  in  succeeding  years :  but  if  suffered  to  remain  on 
the  ground,  they  will  supply  food  to  myriads  of  their 
destructive  race,  which  may  not  be  so  easily  extirpated. 

The  canker-worm  is  another  enemy  to  our  fruits,  for  the 
destruction  of  which  many  experiments  have  been  tried. 
Some  apply  bandages  round  the  body  of  the  tree,  smeared 
over  with  tar  or  ointment,  to  annoy  or  entrap  the  females  in 
their  ascent  to  the  tree ;  but  as  these  tormentors  are  fre- 
quently on  the  move  from  November  to  the  end  of  June, 
this  must  be  a  very  tedious  as  well  as  uncertain  process.  As 
this  insect  is  supposed  to  exist  within  four  feet  of  the  trunk 
of  the  tree,  and  not  more  than  three  or  four  inches  from 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  good  culture,  and  a  moderate  use 
of  lime,  ashes,  or  any  other  pernicious  ingredient,  is  the 
most  likely  way  to  destroy  them. 

The  bark-louse  is  another  pernicious  insect ;  they  resem- 
ble blisters,  and  are  so  near  the  colour  of  the  bark  as  to  be 
imperceptible  ;  they  often  prove  fatal  to  the  Apple  tree,  by 
preventing  the  circulation  of  the  sap.  These  insects  may  be 
conquered  by  washing  the  trees  with  soap-suds,  tobacco 
water,  lime  water,  or  brine,  or  a  wash  may  be  made  of  soapy 
water  and  lime,  thickened  to  the  consistence  of  cream  or 
paint,  with  sifted  sand  or  clay,  which  may  be  applied  with 
a  brush  to  the  trunk  and  limbs  of  the  trees ;  this  should  be 
done  at  the  latter  end  of  May,  or  early  in  June,  and  the 
cracks  in  the  bark  should  be  completely  covered. 

The  Apple-tree  borer  is  said  to  deposit  its  eggs  beneath 
the  surface  of  the  soil,  and  the  worms  are  often  to  be  found 
in  the  Spring  of  the  year,  by  digging  round  the  tree,  and 
clearing  away  the  earth  to  the  roots,  and  may  be  taken  oat 
with  a  knife  or  gouge,  and  destroyed.  After  the  worms  are 
removed,  the  wounds  should  be  covered  over  with  grafting 
clay  and  wood  ashes  mixed,  and  the  earth  then  returned  to 
the  roots  of  the  tree.  Some  use  bricklayers'  mortar  early 
in  the  Spring,  around  the  base  of  the  tree,  so  as  to  cover  the 
part  where  the  deposit  is  made,  and  prevent  their  attacks, 


248  OBSERVATIONS  ON  INSECTS, 

Although  our  limits  will  not  allow  of  a  further  description 
of  the  various  sorts  of  insects  which  injure  our  gardens,  and 
frequently  destroy  the  fruit  of  our  labour,  I  cannot  forbear 
directing  the  attention  of  our  citizens  to  the  importance  of 
saving  all  kinds  of  ashes.  If  all  agriculturists  and  horticul- 
turists were  to  ofter  an  inducement  to  the  inhabitants  of 
large  cities,  to  save  their  ashes  in  a  dry  state,  they  would  be 
supplied  not  only  with  a  valuable  manure,  but  an  antidote 
for  many  kinds  of  insects  ;  and  our  citizens  would  be  at  a 
less  risk  from  fire,  by  having  a  brick  vault  on  their  premises 
for  safe  keeping  them.  In  England,  a  private  dwelling  is 
not  considered  complete  without  an  ash-vault ;  and  a  good 
farmer  would  dispense  with  his  barn,  rather  than  be  desti- 
tute of  an  ash-house.  I  have  known  formers  to  supply  the 
cottagers  with  as  much  peat  as  they  coujd  burn,  on  condi- 
tion of  their  saving  them  the  ashes;  and  there  are  some  that 
will  keep  men  under  pay  throughout  the  year,  burning  peat 
for  the  same  purpose  ;  and  any  thing  that  has  passed  the 
fire  is  so  valuable,  that  a  chimney-sweep  will  frequently 
clean  chimneys  for  the  sake  of  the  soot,  which  is  conveyed 
miles  into  the  country,  and  sold  ata  price  sufficient  to  reward 
the  collectors,  besides  paying  all  expenses ;  even  the  house- 
keepers' ashes  in  cities  is  a  marketable  article  at  all  timesr 
at  from  ten  to  twenty-five  cents  per  bushel,  when  kept  dry 
and  clean,  and  a  guinea  a  load  was  formerly  the  common 
price  in  the  villages  of  Berkshire  and  Hampshire. 

While  an  this  subject,  I  would  urge  the  importance  of  a 
Spring  dressing  of  ashes.  If  cultivators  were  to  prepare 
turfs  from  tanners'  bark,  peat-earth,  coal  dust  mixed  with 
clay,  cow  dung,  &c.  and  get  them  dried  in  the  Summer 
season,  these,by  being  preserved  through  the  \Vinler,  may  be 
burned  around  fruit  orchards,  while  the  trees  are  in  blossom, 
and  if  the  fires  are  properly  managed,  a  smoke  may  be  kept 
up,  by  lit  aping  on  damp  litter  every  night ;  this  will  prove 
pernicious  to  such  insects  as  may  reside  in  the  trees,  and  the 
ashes  being  spread  on  the  ground,  will  serve  as  a  means  for 
the  destruction  of  others.  An  orchard  thus  managed  every 
year,  will  need  no  other  manure.  The  smoking  should  be 
effected  first  on  one  side  of  the  plantation,  and  afterwards 


AND  DISEASES  OP  FRUIT  TREES.  *  249 

OH  the  other,  or  heaps  may  be  prepared  in  differents  parts  of 
the  orchard,  and  fire  applied  according  as  the  wind  may 
serve,  to  carry  the  smoke  where  it  is  most  necessary.  I , 
know  a  gardener  in  the  neighbourhood  of  New-York,  who 
saved  his  Plums  and  Nectarines  by  burning  salt  hay,  after 
its  having  been  used  as  a  covering  for  his  Spinach  ;  and  I 
have  no  hes  tation  in  recommending  it  as  an  excellent  re- 
medy for  securing  fruit  trees  from  insects,  especially  if  some 
coarse  tobacco  could  be  procured  to  add  to  it.  The  damper 
the  materials  are,  in  moderation,  the  more  smoke  they  will 
create  ;  and  if  a  little  tar,  pitch,  sulphur,  or  other  pernicious 
combustible  besprinkled  amongst  them,  it  will  be  benefici.nl. 
This  subject  appears  to  me  of  the  utmost  consequence  to  the 
farmer,  as  well  as  to  the  community  at  large;  1,  therefore, 
cannot  forbear  offering  some  further  observations. 

It  must  be  acknowledged,  that  although  this  country  con- 
tains an  abundance  of  wood,  coal  and  peat,  as  well  as 
almost  every  other  description  of  fuel,  that  the  poor  of  our 
large  cities,  in  general,  suffer  greatly  from  cold;  and  if  all 
the  tales  of  woe  could  be  sounded  in  the  ears  of  a  sympa- 
thizing  community  during  our  severe  Winter,  I  am  per- 
suaded it  would  arouse  them  to  the  'consideration  of  a 
remedy.  It  is  an  acknowledged  fact,  that  the  poor  of  Europe 
are  cheaper  and  better  supplied  with  fuel  than  those  of  this 
country.  This  arises,  in  a  great  measure,  from  the  circam- 
stance  of  ashes  being  held  in  high  estimation  by  agricul- 
turists ;  they  are  consequently  a  saleable  article  in  their 
large  towns  and  cities,  at  a  price  equal  in  some  instances 
to  half  the  cost  of  a  Winter's  fuel. 

Now  I  would  ask,  how  is  it  that  ashes  are  not  as  valuable 
to  the  farmer  here,  as  they  are  in  Europe?  The  extreme 
heat  of  the  Summers  must  certainly  engender  insects  in 
equal  if  not  greater  proportions  ;  and  as  respects  manure,  it 
must  be  scarcer  in  some  parts  of  this  extensive  country,  than 
it  is  in  the  densely  populated  countries  of  Europe.  Perhaps 
some  may  answer,  that  ashes  are  already  used  by  our  culti- 
vators to  a  considerable  extent;  but  I  would  remind  such, 
that  from  the  circumstance  of  their  being  mixed  up  with 
other  manures,  and  exposed  to  all  sorts  of  weather,  (as  in; 


250  %  OBSERVATIONS  ON  INSECTS,  &C. 

our  city,)  they  lose  their  virtue,  so  that  a  load  may  not  be 
worth  more  than  a  bushel  would  be,  if  kept  dry  and  clean. 

The  farmers  of  Europe  consider  peat  ashes  of  more  value 
than  any  others,  and  I  am  persuaded  that  could  they  be 
fairly  tested  by  some  of  our  best  cultivators  great  good  may 
result  to  the  community.  If  the  fanners  in  England  can 
afford  to  keep  men  under  pay,  perpetually  burning  peat  for 
the  sake  of  the  ashes,  it  is  natural  to  suppose  that  the  poor 
of  our  community  may  be  placed  in  easier  circumstances 
as  respects  the  article  of  fuel.  Thousands  of  acres  of  land 
are  to  be  found  in  the  States  of  New-York  and  New  Jersey, 
and  within  a  few  miles  of  this  city,  which  abound  with  peat 
earth;  and  the  owners  of  such  have  already  began  to  ex- 
plorj  their  treasures  of  this  description.  Good  peat  is  now 
to  be  had  in  the  city  at  the  low  price  of  eight  cents  per 
bushel,  or  three  dollars  per  chaldron.  It  burns  well  in  all 
•orts  of  stoves  and  grates,  whether  made  for  wood  or  coal* 
and  also  on  the  hearth;  and  if  the  ashes  are  not  used  to  any 
better  purposes  than  other  ashes  have  hitherto  been,  it  is  the 
cheapest  fuel  known.  I  am  persuaded  that  this  subject  is 
worthy  of  serious  consideration,  and  if  the  editors  of  the 
different  papers  would  arouse  the  public  attention,  so  as  to 
enlist  some  of  our  most  active  citizens  to  a  consideration  of 
the  subject,  incalculable  good  may  result  to  the  community 
at  large. 

If  the  public  authorities  of  our  cities,  and  all  those  who 
distribute  fuel  amongst  the  poor,  gratis,  would  give  them 
peat  instead  of  wood,  it  would  be  much  cheaper,  and  would 
answer  every  purpose  to  the  consumers.  In  such  cases 
twelve  bushels  may  be  given  in  the  first  Winter  month  to 
each  of  the  applicants,  instead  of  wood,  with  a  strict  injunc- 
tion that  they  save  their  ashes  in  a  dry  state,  in  order  to 
their  being  taken  in  exchange  for  a  future  supply  of  peat. 
It  could  be  easily  ascertained  how  much  ashes  twelve  bushels 
of  peat  would  make,  and  if  a  strict  attention  be  paid  to  the 
conditions  of  exchange,  it  would  soon  be  discovered  which 
of  the  applicants  was  the  most  entitled  to  the  distributor's 
bounty.  The  same  sheds  which  it  would  be  necessary  to 
provide  for  housing  the  peat,  could  be  used  as  a  deposit  for 


ON  TRAINING  AND  PRUNING.  1 

the  ashes.  If  such  sheds  be  conveniently  constructed  to 
hold  each  a  moderate  quantity,  the  first  which  is  emptied  of 
peat  may  be  filled  with  the  first  ashes  that  are  returned  in 
exchange  for  a  future  supply  of  fuel,  and  they  could  be  all 
used  for  the  same  purpose  as  they  become  empty.  These 
ashes,  when  fairly  tested,  may  become  a  merchantable 
article  in  Europe  ;  and  it  is  very  probable  that  farmers  may 
be  induced  to  take  them  in  exchange  for  future  supplies  of 
peat ;  they  could,  however,  be  conveyed  into  the  country  at 
a  trifling  expense,  and  would  no  doubt  meet  a  ready  sale. 


OBSERVATIONS 

ON  TRAINING  AND  PRUNING  FRUIT  TREES  AND  VINES. 

In  training  and  pruning  fruit  trees  and  vines,  particular 
attention  is  required.  To  supply  a  tree  with  a  sufficiency 
of  vegetable  juices,  there  must  necessarily  be  living  bark 
and  wood,  in  an  uninterrupted  succession  from  the  root  to 
the  exrremities  of  the  branches ;  pruning  therefore,  is  useful 
to  remedy  any  defect,  as  well  as  to  take  off  superfluous  wood, 
and  prevent  unnecessary  waste  of  the  sap.  Pruning  may 
be  performed  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  according  to 
the  kinds  of  fruit  which  will  be  shown  under  each  head,  as 
we  proceed. 

In  the  Spring  or  Summer  pruning,  be  careful  not  to  dei- 
troy  the  germs  of  future  fruits  ;  but  merely  remove  all  un- 
serviceable sprigs.  In  the  Winter  season,  makeyour  selec- 
tion from  the  wood  shoots  of  the  preceding  year  ;  keep  those 
which  appear  the  most  healthy,  and  cut  away  those  which 
seem  redundant.  Beginners  had  better  prefer  the  Spring, 
as  the  buds  will  then  be  a  guide  for  them  to  go  by  ;  but  this 
business  must  not  be  delayed  too  late  in  the  season,  as  some 
kinds  of  trees  and  vines  are  apt  to  bleed  from  being  pruned 
untimely.  When  the  sap  rises  in  Grape  Vines,  <fcc.,  before 
the  wound  is  healed,  bleeding  ensues,  and  it  is  not  easily 
stopped.  When  this  happens,  sear  the  place,  and  cover  it 


ON    TRAINING    AND    PRUNING. 

with  melted  wax,  or  with  warm  pitch  spread  upon  a  piece  of 
bladder ;  or  peel  off  the  outside  bark  to  some  distance 
from  the  place  ;  and  then  press  into  the  pores  of  the 
wood,  a  composition  of  pounded  chalk  and  tar,  mixed  to 
the  consistence  of  putty.  Vines  will  bleed  in  Autumn  as  well 
as  in  Spring,  though  not  so  copiously.  The  best  preventive 
is  timely  or  early  pruning  in  the  Spring;  and  not  pruning 
until  the  wood  is  thoroughly  ripe  in  Autumn. 

With  respect  to  the  manner  in  which  vines,  and  some 
particular  kinds  of  trees  should  be  trained,  opinions  are 
at  variance.  Some  advise  training  the  shoots  in  a  straight 
and  direct  manner,  others  in  a  horizontal  manner,  and 
others  in  a  serpentine  form,  &c.  If  vines  be  trained  on  low 
walls  or  trellises,  the  horizontal  or  zigzag  manner  of  training 
may  be  adopted.  Horizontal  training  is  that  in  which  from 
a  main  stem,  lateral  branches  are  led  out  horizontally  on 
each  side. 

It  has  been  remarked,  th.it  in  order  to  be  a  good  trainer 
of  vines,  a  man* must  have  some  forethought,  and  be  capable 
of  making  his  selection,  as  the  plants  shoot.  He  must  pre- 
determine how  he  shall  prune,  ani  where  he  shall  cut  at  the 
end  of  the  season  ;  and  so,  as  it  were,  fashion  the  plants  to 
his  mind.  He  has  this  more  effectually  in  his  power,  with 
respect  to  the  vine,  than  any  other  fruit  tree,  on  account  of 
its  rapid  growth  and  docility. 

In  pruning  vines,  cut  generally  two  inches  above  the  bud. 
Some  cut  nearer,  even  as  near  as  half  an  inch,  which  is  apt 
to  weaken  the  shoot  of  next  season,  and  sometimes  to  pre- 
vent its  vegetating  at  all,  the  buds  being  very  susceptible  of 
injury,  on  account  of  the  soft  and  spongy  nature  of  the  wood. 
In  the  cutting  out  of  old  wood,  be  careful  to  cut  in  a  sloping 
direction,  and  to  smooth  the  edges  of  the  wood,  in  order  to 
prevent  its  being  injured  by  moisture.  The  pruning  being 
finished,  let  the  loose,  shreddy,  outward  rind  on  the  old  wood 
be  carefully  peeled  off,  observing  not  to  injure  the  sound 
bark,  and  clear  the  trellis  of  branches,  leaves,  tendrils,  <fec. 
Let  the  shoots  and  branches  be  afterwards  regularly  laid  in, 
at  the  distance  above  specified,  particularly  the  young  shoots 
that  are  expected  to  bear  next  season.  As  to  others,  it  is 


ON  TRAINING  AND  PRUNING.        • 

not  so  material  how  near  the  young  shoots  be  placed  to  the 
old,  even  though  they  sometimes  cross  them.  Choose 
strands  of  fresh  matting,  or  pack  thread,  to  tie  with  ;  and 
observe  to  leave  sufficient  room  for  the  swelling  of  the  shoots 
and  branches  next  season. 

By  attending  to  the  proper  pruning  of  fruit  trees,  every 
advantage  is  promoted,  and  by  a  judicious  management  in 
other  respects,  wood  may  not  only  be  obtained  but  preserved 
in  every  part  of  the  tree,  and  so  that  it  will  bear  down  to  the 
very  bole,  which  will  evidently  be  greatly  to  the  credit  of  the 
gardener,  the  benefit  of  the  proprietor,  and  will  be  equally 
conducive  to  the  beauty  and  welfare  of  the  tree.  While  trees 
are  young,  it  is  necessary  to  lay  a  good  foundation  for  a  supply 
of  bearing  wood  in  future  years,  for  when  this  is  neglected, 
and  they  become  naked, it  is, some  time  before  a  supply  can 
be  recovered.  In  shortening  a  branch,  always  take  care  to 
cut  in  a  direction  a  little  sloping,  and  the  middles  of  all 
standard  trees  should  be  kept  as  open  as  possible.  It  is  re- 
quisite to  have  a  very  sharp  knife,  that  the  cut  may  not  be  rag- 
ged, but  clean,  and  in  the  operation  be  careful  that  the  knife 
does  not  slip,  so  that  another  branch  be  cut  or  damaged. 

The  general  pruning  of  fruit  trees  is  indifferently  per- 
formed by  many  persons  at  any  time  from  Autumn  to  Spring, 
and  it  may  be  so  done  without  any  great  injury  to  them, 
provided  that  mild  weather  be  chosen  for  the  purpose,  and 
the  wood  be  well  ripened.  Although  it  may  be  advantageous 
to  prune  trees  early  in  the  Winter,  when  the  wood  is  well 
ripened,  yet  when  the  wood  is  green  and  the  buds  have  not 
arrived  at  a  mature  state,  it  is  requisite  in  such  instances  to 
defer  pruning  until  Spring,  taking  care,  however,  that  it  is 
performed  before  the  moving  of  the  sap.  The  necessity  of 
this  arises  from  the  circumstance,  that  as  the  wood  is  not 
ripened  in  Autumn,  the  sap  is  then  in  an  active  state, 
and  will  continue  so  until  the  frost,  &c.  cause  it  to  become 
stagnant,  and  if  the  shoots  were  shortened  whilst  the  sap 
was  in  motion,  the  buds  would  be  considerably  injured, 
and  the  tree  weakened  ;  such  unripe  shoots  are  also  more 
liable  to  suffer  by  the  severity  of  Winter,  and  when  the  pru- 
ning is  deferred  nntil  Spring,  all  such  parts  as  may  have 


254  ON   TRAINING  ANl) 

been  affected  by  the  weather,  can  be  removed  to  the  extent 
to  which  the  damage  has  been  sustained.  As  the  pruning 
of  such  unripe  wood  in  the  Autumn  would  be  injurious,  so 
it  frequently  is  when  it  is  done  during  Winter,  and  the  more 
so,  according  to  the  severity  of  it ;  because,  whenever  a  cut 
is  made  on  such  green-wood,  the  frost  generally  affects  it, 
as  the  sap  is  not  dense  nor  the  wood  so  firm,  as  to  be  able  to 
resist  its  intenseness. 

Whatever  method  is  adopted  in  training  trees,  care  should 
be  taken  to  keep  the  two  sides  as  nearly  equal  as  possible  ; 
this  may  easily  be  done,  whether  they  are  trained  in  the 
fan  or  horizontal  method.  For  espalier  trees  the  horizontal 
method  has  many  advantages  over  any  other  ;  the  small 
compass  in  which  the  trees  are  obliged  to  be  kept,  requires 
such  a  direction  for  the  branches,  in  order  to  make  them 
fruitful.  And  were  very  high  trellises  formed,  so  as  to  ad- 
mit of  the  trees  being  trained  in  the  fan  method,  such  would 
be  very  objectionable,  by  reason  of  the  shade- they  would 
_  cause,  and  the  trees  would  also  be  deprived  of  the  benefit  of 
a  warmer  temperature,  which  those  less  elevated  receive. 

As  some  young  gardeners  may  not  know  what  is  meant 
by  espaliers,  it  may  be  necessary  to  explain,  that  espaliers 
are  hedges  of  fruit  trees,  which  are  trained  up  regularly  to  a 
frame  or  trellis  of  wood  work ;  they  produce  large  fruit 
plentifully, without  taking  up  much  room,and  may  be  planted 
in  the  Kitchen  Garden  without  much  inconvenience  to  its 
other  products.  For  espalier  fruit  trees  in  the  open  ground, 
a  trellis  is  absolutely  necessary,  and  may  either  be  formed 
of  common  stakes  or  poles,  or  of  regular  joinery  work, 
according  to  taste  or  fancy. 

The  implements  employed  in  pruning,  and  the  manner  of 
using  them,  are  matters  of  moment.  If  the  operation  is 
commenced  when  the  tree  is  young,  and  judiciously  followed 
up,  a  good  knife,  a  small  saw,  a  mallet,  and  a  chisel  fixed 
on  a  six-foot  handle,  to  trim  the  tops  and  extremities  of  the 
branches,  are  all  the  tools  that  are  required.  A  large  saw 
will  be  occasionally  wanted  ;  but  an  axe  or  hatchet  should 
never  be  employed,  as  they  fracture  the  wood,  bruise  and 
tear  the  bark,  and  disfigure  the  tree. 


255 
BUDDING  AND   GRAFTING  FRUIT  TREES. 

Budding  and  Grafting,  Lindley  observes,  are  operations 
that  equally  depend  for  their  success  upon  the  property  that 
buds  possess  of  shooting  roots  downwards  and  stems  up- 
wards ;  but  in  these  practices,  the  roots  strike  between  the 
bark  and  wood  of  the  stock,  instead  of  into  the  earth,  and 
form  new  layers  of  wood,  instead  of  subterranean  fibres. 
The  success  of  such  practices,  however,  depends  upon  other 
causes  than  those  which  influence  the  growth  of  cuttings- 
It  is  necessary  that  an  adhesion  should  take  place  between 
the  scion  and  the  stoek,  so  that  when  the  descending  fibres 
of  the  buds  shall  have  fixed  themselves  upon  the  wood  of 
the  stock,  they  may  not  be  liable  to  subsequent  separation 
No  one  can  have  studied  the  economy  of  the  vegetable 
kingdom,  without  having  remarked  that  there  is  a  strong 
tendency  to  cohesion  in  bodies  or  parts  that  are  placed  in 
contact  with  each  other. 


BUDDING,  OR  INOCULATING. 

To  bud  trees,  let  the  following  method  be  adopted  :  pro- 
cure a  knife  which  has  a  thin  blade,  and  a  sharp  ivory 
handle  ;  the  use  of  the  blade  is  to  prepare  the  buds,  and  the 
handle  is  used  to  raise  the  bark  of  the  stocks,  so  that  the 
buds  can  be  easily  inserted.  Have  some  good  strong  bass 
in  readiness,  and  then  take  some  good  thrifty  sprigs  from 
healthy  trees  of  the  sorts  you  intend  to  propagate.  When 
all  is  ready,  make  a  cut  in  the  bark  of  the  stock  transversely, 
and  from  the  middle  of  this  cut  make  another  downwards, 
at  least  two  inches  in  length,  so  that  the  two  cuts  may  be  in 
the  form  of  a  T;  then  take  one  of  your  sprigs,  and  with  ex- 
pedition proceed  to  take  off  a  bud  :  this  is  effected  by  enter- 
ing the  knife  a  little  more  than  half  an  inch  below  the  bud 
or  eye  ;  force  your  knife  into  the  wood,  drawing  it  under  the 
bud,  and  cut  the  piece"  off  across  the  shoot ;  then  imme- 
diately let  that  part  of  the  wood  which  was  cut  off  with  the 
bud,  be  separated  from  it,  which  may  be  readily  done  with 


256  .          OBSERVATIONS    ON  GRAFTING. 

the  knife,  by  placing  the  point  of  it  between  the  bark  and 
wood  at  one  end,  and  holding  the  bark  in  one  hand,  pull  off* 
the  woody  part  with  the  other,  which  will  readily  conie  from 
the  bark,  if  the  tree  from  which  it  was  taken  be  in  vigorous 
'condition.  Examine  the  bark,  so  as  to  be  satisfied  that  the 
bud  remains  perfect ;  if  there  is  no  hole  in  it,  let  it  be  imme- 
diately inserted  into  the  stock,  observing*  for  the  reception 
of  it,  to  raise  with  the  handle  of  your  knife  the  bark  of  the 
stock  downwards  on  each  side  from  the  cross  cut,  and  thrust 
the  buc!  in  between  the  bark  and  the  wood,  applying  it  as 
close  as  possible.  As  soon  as  the  bud  is  put  in  its  place,  tie 
it  round  securely  with  bass,  beginning  a  little  below  the  cut, 
and  proceeding  upwards,  till  you  are  above  the  cross  cut, 
taking  care  to  miss  the  eye  of  the  bud,  just  that  it  may  be 
seen  through  the  bandage  of  the  bass.  About  a  week  or 
ten  days  after  the  stocks  have  been  budded,  they  should  be 
examined,  when  such  as  have  united  will  appear  fresh  and 
full,  and  those  that  have  not  taken  will  appear  decayed  ;  in 
the  former  case  the  bandage  may  be  left  off,  and  in  the 
latter  case,  the  stock  may  be  budded  in  another  place,  pro- 
vided the  first  operation  was  done  in  the  month  of  July  or 
early  in  Aiignst,  as  these  are  two  of  the  most  preferable 
months  for  budding  fruit  trees  in  general.  Budding  is? 
however,  often  attended  with  success,  if  done  early  in 
September. 

SCALLOP  BUDDING  is  performed  by  cutting  from  a  small 
stock,  a  thin  narrow  scallop  of  woodj  about  an  inch  in 
length,  and  taking  from  a  twig  a  thin  scallop  of  wood  of  the 
same  length  ;  this  is  instantly  applied,  and  fitted  perfectly  at 
top  and  bottom,  and  as  nearly  as  possible  on  its  sides,  and 
firmly  bound  with  wet  bass  matting.  This  maybe  performed 
in  the  Spring,  and  if  it  fails,  it  may  be  done  again  in  the 
month  of  July.  The  French  practise  this  mode  on  roses. 


GRAFTING. 

Grafting  is  the  taking  a  shoot  from  one  tree  and  inserting 
it  into  another,  in  such  a  manner  that  both  may  unite  closely, 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  GRAFTING.  257 

and  become  one  tree.  These  shoots  are  called  scions  or 
grafts,  and  in  the  choice  of  them,  and  the  mode  of  preparing 
some  descriptions  of  stocks,  the  following  hints  are  sub- 
mitted. 

That  those  scions  are  best  which  can  be  taken  from  the 
lateral  or  horizontal,  rather  than  from  the  strong  perpendicu- 
lar shoots.  The  shoots  of  Apples,  &c.,  should  be  taken 
from  healthy  trees  late  in  Autumn,  or  before  the  buds  begin 
to  swell  in  the  Spring;  and  buried  half  of  their  length  in 
the  ground,  or  in  a  cool  and  dry  cellar  ;  there  to  remain 
until  the  season  of  grafting. 

For  some  descriptions  of  trees,  the  stocks  are  headed 
down  near  to  the  ground.  In  Nurseries,  Apples  intended 
for  standards,  are  generally  grafted  about  nine  inches  high 
only,  allowing  them  to  grow  up  standard  high,  and  forming 
their  heads  upon  the  second  year's  shoots.  In  cider  coun- 
tries, the  stock  is  generally  trained  up  standard  high  ;  and 
when  grown  sufficiently  large  for  the  purpose,  it  is  grafted 
the  height  at  which  it  is  intended  the  head  of  the  tree  shall 
be  formed.  As  respects  trees  in  general,  directions  will  be 
found  under  appropriate  heads. 

The  business  of  grafting  is  generally  performed  in  March 
and  April :  there  are  various  methods  of  grafting,  but  the 
following  are  those  most  generally  practised. 

CLEFT  GRAFTING. — This  mode  of  grafting  is  generally 
practised  on  stocks  of  from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter, 
and  may  be  performed  in  the  following  manner  : — Let  the 
head  of  the  stock  be  carefully  sawed  oft'  at  a  part  free  from 
knots,  and  the  top  pared  smooth ;  then  with  a  thin  knife 
split  down  the  stock  through  the  centre,  to  the  depth  of 
about  two  inches,  and  insert  a  wedge  to  keep  it  open  for  the 
reception  of  the  scion.  The  scion  must  be  prepared  in  the 
form  of  a  wedge,  with  an  eye,  if  possible,  in  the  upper  part, 
and  inserted  carefully,  so  that  the  inner  bark  of  the  scion 
and  of  the  stock  may  both  exactly  meet.  Large  stocks 
require  two  scions,  one  on  each  side,  and  sometimes  four 
are  inserted.  When  done,  tie  them  firmly  together  with  bass, 
and  then  cover  the  grafted  part  with  well  prepared  clay, 
in  an  oval  form,  and  close  it  securely. 

28* 


255  OBSERVATIONS  ON    GRAFTING. 

SIDE  GRAFTING. — This  mode  is  sometimes  practised  on 
those  parts  of  a  tree  where  a  limb  is  wanting.  There  are 
two  ways  in  which  it  maybe  performed.  1st.  The  scion 
may  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  for  splice  grafting., 
and  the  bark  and  wood  on  the  side  of  the  stock  cut  sloping  ; 
the  scion  being  then  adjusted  as  carefully  as  possible,  must 
be  bound  on  and  covered  with  clay.  3d.  The  scion  being 
cut  sloping,  a  cfbss-cut  is  to  be  made  in  the  side  of  the  tree 
on  the  top  of  a  perpendicular  slit ;  the  bark  of  the  tree 
above  the  cross-cut  must  be  pared  down  slanting  to  the 
wood,  and  the  bark  raised,  as  in  budding  ;  the  scion  being, 
then  inserted,  it  must  be  bound  fast,  and  covered  with  clay. 

SPLICE,  OR  WHIP  GRAFTING.- — This  mode  is  often  prac- 
tised on  small  stocks,  and  it  succeeds  best  when  the  scion, 
and  stock  are  of  an  equal  size.  The  scion,  which  should 
consist  of  young  wood  of  the  former  year's  growth,  may  be 
cut  to  the  length  of  about  four  inches.  This  and  the  stock 
are  each  to  be  cut  sloping,  for  an  inch  or  more,  and  tongued. 
Tongueing  consists  in  cutting  a  slit  in  the  middle  of  the  slope 
of  the  stock  downwards,  and  a  corresponding  slit  in  the  scion 
upwards  ;  both  are  now  to  be  joined,  so  that  one  of  the  sides, 
if  not  both,  shall  perfectly  coincide,  and  then  to  be  securely 
bound  with  bass  matting,  and  covered  with  grafting  clay,  or 
compostion.  As  soon  as  the  scion  and  stock  are  completely 
united,  the  bass  string  may  be  removed. 

SADDLE  GRAFTING. — The  celebrated  Mr.  Knight  prac- 
tised this  mode  of  grafting  on  very  small  stocks.  The  upper 
part  of  the  stock  is  prepared  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  by  two 
sloping  cuts,  one  on  each  side.  The  scion  is  prepared  by 
splitting  it  upwards,  and  paring  out  the  middle  part  on  each 
side  to  a  point.  When  the  stock  and  scion  are  of  equal 
size,  the  adjustment  may  be  made  perfect ;  but  if  unequal, 
one  side  must  exactly  meet.  The  whole  is  secured  by  a 
string  of  bass  matting,  and  covered  with  composition  or 
clay  ;  but  the  string  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  a  perfect 
union  has  taken  place. 

ROOT  GRAFTING. — This  operation  is  often  performed  on 
grape  vines,  just  below  the  level  of  the  surface,  by  the  usual 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  GRAFTING'*  251> 

mode  of  cleft  grafting.  It  is  also  performed  on  portions  or 
pieces  of  root,  where  suitable  stocks  are  scared. 

GRAFTING  BY  APPROACH. — The  trees,  or  shrubs,  to  be 
grafted,  must  be  growing  very  near  to  those  which  are  to 
furnish  the  grafts.  The  limbs  or  branches  of  each  tree, 
which  are  thus  to  be  united,  must  be  pared  with  a  long  slo- 
ping cut  of  several  inches,  nearly  to  the  centre ;  and  the 
parts  of  each  tree  thus  prepared,  are  to  be  brought  together, 
and  finally  secured  by  a  bandage  of  matting,  so  that  the 
bark  shall  meet  as  nearly  as  possible.  The  graft  may  then 
be  covered  with  clay  or  composition  ;  and  when  a  complete 
union  has  taken  place,  the  trees  or  shrubs  may  be  separated 
with  a  sharp  knife,  by  cutting  off  below  the  junction. 

GRAFTING  CLAY  may  be  made  in  the  following  manner : 
Take  equal  parts  of  fresh  horse  manure,  free  from  litter,  cow 
manure,  and  good  stiff  clay  ;  add  to  this  a  portion  of  hair, 
and  work  it  together  in  the  same  manner  as  masons  mix 
their  mortar.  It  should  be  well  beaten,  and  incorporated 
several  days  before  it  is  required  to  be  used. 

To  MAKE  GRAFTING  COMPOSITION. — Take  equal  parts  of 
rosin  and  beeswax,  and  a  little  tallow  ;  melt  these  together 
tjnd  mix  thsm,  then  pour  the  composition  into  cold  water, 
and  as  it  hardens,  take  it  out  and  work  it  up  with  the  hands 
until  it  attains  a  due  consistence.  It  may  be  spread  on 
brown  paper,  which  cut  into  strips  of  suitable  size,  is  quickly 
applied,  and  in  cool  weather  may  be  warmed  by  the  breath, 
so  as  to  become  adhesive. 


OX    THE 

CHOICE  OF  FRUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY. 

IN  the  choice  of  fruit  trees,  all  possible  care  and  attention 
are  necessary  ;  for,  to  have  trees  that  do  not  answer  the 
expectations  of  the  proprietor,  is  a  great  disappointment. 
As  the  young  gardener  may  need  such  directions  as  are 
calculated  to  govern  him  in  his  choice,  I  shall  endeavour  to 
furnish  them.  Of  whatever  species  or  variety  of  fruit  trees 
aie  wanted,  choose  those  that  are  vigorous  and  straight 


260  ON  THE  CHOICE  OF 

and  of  a  healthy  appearance.  Whether  they  have  been 
grafted  or  budded,  be  careful  to  select  such  as  have  been 
worked  on  young  stocks.  Grafts  and  buds  inserted  into 
old  crooked  stunted  stocks,  seldom  succeed  well.  Trees 
that  are  healthy,  have  always  a  smooth,  clean,  shining  bark  ; 
such  as  are  mossy,  or  have  a  rough  wrinkled  bark,  or  are 
the  least  affected  by  canker,  should  be  rejected.  Canker  is 
discoverable  in  the  young  wood,  and  generally  two  or  three 
inches  above  the  graft  or  bud.  If  the  tree  be  an  Apricot, 
Nectarine,  Peach,  or  Plum,  and  any  gum  appears  on  the 
lower  part  of  it,  do  not  fix  upon  that.  Let  the  tree  you 
select  (if  a  dwarf)  be  worked  about  six  inches  from  the 
ground,  and  only  one  graft  or  bud  should  be  upon  each 
stock,  for  when  there  are  more,  the  tree  cannot  be  brought 
to  so  handsome  a  form. 

In  some  of  the  following  articles,  I  have  shown  that 
several  descriptions  of  trees  may  be  transplanted  with  safety, 
even  when  far  advanced  in  growth.  When  trees  of  four  or 
five  years'  growth,  after  heading  down,  that  are  healthy,  and 
well  furnished  with  fruit-bearing  wood,  close  up  to  the  cen- 
tre of  the  tree,  can  be  obtained,  they  will  do  very  well;  but 
great  care  is  requisite  in  taking  up,  removing,  and  planting 
such.  Let  the  tree  be  taken  up  with  as  great  a  portion 
of  the  roots  as  possible,  taking  care  not  to  bruise,  split,  or 
damage  them ;  for  want  of  attention  to  these  points,  trees 
often  become  diseased.  Whenever  (notwithstanding  all  due 
eaution)  any  roots  have  been  accidentally  broken,  split,  or 
otherwise  damaged  in  taking  up  the  tree,  let  them  be  cut  offj 
or  if  they  cannot  be  well  ^spared,  let  the  damaged  or  bruised 
part  be  pared  clean  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  a  portion 
of  the  following  composition  be  spread  over  the  wound,  in 
order  to  keep  the  wet  from  it,  which  would  otherwise  injure 
the  tree.  To  equal  parts  of  soft  soap  and  tarr  add  a  little  bees- 
wax ;  let  them  be  boiled  together,  and  when  cold  they  may 
be  used.  ^  The  necessity  of  pruning-in  and  dressing  man- 
gled roots,  is  more  particularly  required  in  trees  of  the  stone 
fruit,  such  as  Apricots,  Nectarines,  Peaches,  Plums,  &c.  -t 
for  without  the  application  of  some  remedy,  they  gum  at  the 
roots,  which  defect,  if  not  counteracted,  very  materially 


FRT7IT  TREES  IN  THE  NURSERY.  261 

injures  the  upper  part  of  the  trees,  which  may  become  so 
affected  as  never  to  recover  afterwards ;  therefore,  great 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  occasion  such  injury  ;  and 
when  accidents  happen,  all  due  caution  and  application  are 
necessary  to  promote  a  healthy  and  vigorous  growth. 

A  young  tree,  likely  to  do  well,  should  have  roots  nearly 
corresponding  to  the  branches  ;  at  least,  it  should  have  one 
strong  root  in  a  similar  proportion  to  the  bole  of  the  tree, 
with  a  proper  distribution  of  branching  fibres.  Healthy 
roots  are  always  smooth  and  clear,  the  colour  of  them  varies 
a  little  according  to  the  sort  of  the  tree,  but  the  older  the 
roots  are,  the  darker  the  colour  is. 

After  the  tree  is  taken  up,  be  careful  in  conveying  it  to 
the  place  where  it  is  to  be  planted,  so  that  the  roots  are  not 
chafed  or  rubbed.  If  trees  are  to  be  conveyed  a  consider- 
able distance,  they  should  be  well  guarded  by  straw,  or 
otherwise,  in  order  to  prevent  injury.  All  damaged  or  bruised 
roots  should  be  pruned  as  soon  as  the  tree  is  taken  up,  but 
if  it  be  necessary  to  prune  away  any  sound  good  roots,  such 
pruning  should  be  delayed  until  the  time  of  planting.  In 
pruning  away  roots,  always  let  them  be  finished  by  a  clear 
cut,  and  in  a  sloping  direction,  letting  the  slope  be  towards 
the  under  stratum,  so  that  the  wet  may  not  be  allowed  to 
lodge  upon  the  part  so  cut.  AVhcn  trees  are  planted  at  an 
advanced  season,  in  the  Spring  of  the  year,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  prune  the  tops ;  and  if  trees  are  removed  that  have 
been  trained  three  or  four  years,  and  are  not  properly 
supplied  with  young  wood,  they  must  be  cut  down  either 
wholly  or  partially,  in  order  to  obtain  a  sufficiency.  In 
practising  this  upon  Apricot  and  Nectarine  trees,  &c., 
always  prune  so  as  to  have  a  leading  shoot  close  below  the 
cut,  as  it  is  very  rare  they  will  push  a  shoot  below,  unless 
there  be  a  lead.  This  attention  is  not  so  particularly  required 
in  the  Pear,  &c.,  as  such  will  generally  push  forth  shoots, 
although  no  leading  ones  were  left :  but  in  all  kinds,  the 
younger  the  wood  is,  the  more  certain  arc  shoots  to  be 
produced.  If  a  tree  that  has  been  under  training  for  one  or 
two  years,  should  only  have  one  good  strong  leading  shoot, 
and  two  or  three  weaker  ones  which  do  not  proceed  from 


262        ON  THE  CHOICE   OF  FRUIT  TREES  IN  THE  NUBSERY. 

it,  let  the  weak  shoots  be  pruned  clean  away,  and  shorten 
the  strong  one,  from  which  a  handsome  head  may  after- 
wards be  formed.  For  further  directions,  as  respects 
pruning  or  planting  fruit  trees,  &c.,  the  reader  is  referred 
to  the  preceding  articles  on  these  subjects  ;  and  as  respects 
any  species  of  fruit  in  particular,  directions  will  be  found 
under  its  distinct  head. 

In  order  to  assist  the  reader  to  make  a  judicious  choice 
of  fruit  trees,  I  have  furnished  a  short  description  of  such 
species  and  varieties  as  are  in  great  repute  for  every  good 
quality.  Previous  to  making  this  selection,  I  carefully 
perused  "  Prince's  Pomological  Manual,"  "  Kenrick's 
American  Orchardist,"  "  Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard 
and  Fruit  Garden,"  and  Manning's  descriptive  catalogue  of 
fruits;  besides  these  important  guides,  I  had  the  select 
catalogues  of  different  nurserymen  before  me,  and  have 
chosen  such  only  as  have  been  most  generally  recommended- 
In  doing  this,  I  have  had  difficulties  to  contend  with,  the 
nature  of  which  none  but  those  who  have  duly  considered 
the  subject  can  form  any  idea.  The  facility  with  which 
seedling  plants  are  raised,  and  the  paternal  fondness  with 
which  people  are  apt  to  regard  their  own  seedlings,  have 
occasioned  hundreds  of  names  to  appear  in  the  various 
catalogues,  which  tend  not  a  little  to  swell  the  large  and 
increasing  list  of  fruits. 

In  many  instances,  the  English,  French,  Spanish,  and 
other  names,  provisional,  local,  and  barbarous,  are  given  to 
the  same  variety,  consequently  some  fruits  appear  in  the 
different  catalogues  under  all  the  varied  names ;  and  the 
patience  and  labour  necessarily  requisite  for  ascertaining 
which  are  really  distinct  varieties,  and  which  are  most 
worthy  of  cultivation,  are  correspondingly  great. 

In  making  out  the  descriptive  lists,  I  have  generally 
adopted  the  names  given  in  the  catalogue  of  Mr.  Michael 
Floy,  of  the  Harlem  Nursery,  as  a  heading;  and  have 
caused  the  synonymes,  or  names  by  which  the  same  variety 
is  known,  or  has  been  called,  to  be  printed  in  italics  ;  thus, 
my  lists  of  about  300  varieties  of  the  various  species  of  fruit, 
will  embrace  what  has  been  deemed  by  some  as  different 
varieties,  perhaps  to  the  number  of  a  thousand* 


APPLE.  263 

IN  preparing  the  following  articles,  the  object  has 
been  to  furnish  such  information  as  was  thought  best  calcu- 
lated to  entertain,  as  well  as  to  instruct  the  reader.  Besides 
the  authorities  quoted,  I  have  gleaned  from  those  inexhaust- 
ible treasures  to  horticulturists,  London's  Encyclopaedia  of 
Plants,  and  that  of  Gardening;  but  on  account  of  the 
brevity  necessarily  observed  throughout  this  work,  it  has 
been  found  impracticable  to  give  many  entire  extracts  ; 
suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  historical  facts  are  generally 
collected  from  these  sources. 


APPLE. 

POMMIER.     Pyrus  malus. 

THE  Apple  being  so  closely  connected  with  our  wants 
and  enjoyments,  is  entitled  to  the  first  notice  in  the  cata- 
logue of  our  fruits,  The  Apple  Orchard  is  in  truth  the 
vineyard  of  our  country ;  and  the  delicious  beverage  that 
can  be  obtained  from  some  of  the  varieties  of  this  excel- 
lent fruit  being  calculated  to  cheer  the  invalid,  as  well  aa 
to  strengthen  the  healthy,  entitles  it  to  high  consideration. 
It  is  one  of  our  oldest  and  best  fruits,  and  has  become 
completely  naturalized  to  our  soil ;  none  can  be  brought  to 
so  high  a  degree  of  perfection  with  so  little  trouble;  and  of 
no  other  are  there  so  many  excellent  varieties  in  general 
cultivation,  calculated  for  almost  every  soil,  situation  and 
climate,  which  our  country  affords. 

The  Apple  tree  is  supposed  by  some  to  attain  a  great 
age  :  Haller  mentions  some  trees  in  Herefordshire, England, 
that  attained  a  thousand  years,  and  were  highly  prolific ; 
but  Knight  considers  two  hundred  years  as  the  ordinary 
duration  of  a  healthy  tree,  grafted  on  a  crab  stock,  and 
planted  in  a  strong  tenacious  soil.  Speechly  mentions  a 
tree  in  an  Orchard  at  Burtonjoice,  near  Nottingham,  of 
about  sixty  years  old,  with  branches  extending  from  seven 
to  nine  yards  round  the  bole,  which  in  some  seasons  pro- 
duced upwards  of  one  hundred  bushels  of  apples* 


264  APPLE. 

The  Romans  had  only  twenty-two  varieties  in  Pliny's 
time.  There  are  upwards  of  fifteen  hundred  now  cultivated 
in  the  garden  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  London,  under 
name ;  the  catalogue  of  the  Linnasan  Botanic  Garden  at 
Flushing,  contains  over  four  hundred  ;  and  one  of  our 
enterprising  horticulturists,  Mr.  Wm.  Coxe,  of  Burlington, 
New  Jersey,  enumerated  one  hundred  and  thirtjMhree  kinds 
cultivated  in  the  United  States,  some  years  ago.  They  are 
usually  divided  into  dessert,  baking,  and  cider  fruits  ;  the 
first  high-flavoured,  the  second  such  as  fall  or  become  mel- 
low in  baking  or  boiling,  and  the  third  austere,  and 
generally  fruit  of  small  size.  Besides  this  division,  Apples 
are  classed  as  pippins  or  seedlings,  pearmains  or  somewhat 
pear-shaped  fruits,  rennets  or  queen-specked  fruits,  calviles 
or  white  skinned  fruits,  russets  or  brown  fruits,  codlings  or 
falling  fruits,  and  some  are  denominated  burknots. 

The  Apple  may  be  propagated  by  layers,  and  many  sorts 
by  cuttings  and  budding,  but  the  usual  mode  is  by  grafting 
on  seedling  stocks  of  two  or  three  years  growth,  and  for 
dwarfing,  on  stocks  of  the  Quince  or  Paradise  Apple.  All 
the  principal  varieties  are  cultivated  as  standards  in  the 
orchard,  and  should  be  planted  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  from 
each  other,  or  from  any  other  spreading  trees,  in  order  that 
the  sun  and  air  may  have  their  due  influence  in  maturing  the 
fruit. 

Many  of  the  dwarf  kinds  may  bo  introduced  into  the 
Kitchen  Garden,  and  trained  as  espaliers,  or  dwarf  stan- 
dards. An  Apple  Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time 
after  the  trees  are  two  years  old  from  the  graft ;  and  as  trees 
from  young  stocks  will  not  come  into  full  bearing  until  ten 
or  twelve  years  old,  they  will  bear  removing  with  care  at 
any  time  within  that  period. 

Old  Apple  trees  may  be  grafted  with  superior  varieties,  by 
being  headed  down  to  standard  height :  in  very  old  subjects, 
most  commonly,  the  branches  only  are  cut  within  afoot  or 
two  of  the  trunk,  and  then  grafted  in  the  crown  or  cleft  man- 
ner. In  all  the  varieties  of  the  common  Apple,  the  mode  of 
bearing  is  upon  small  terminal  and  lateral  spurs,  or  short 
robust  shoots,  from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches  long,  which 


LIST  OF  APPLES*  265 

spring  from  the  younger  branches  of  two  or  more  years' 
growth,  appearing  at  first  at  the  extremity,  and  extending 
gradually  to  the  side :  the  same  bearing  branches  and  fruit 
spurs  continue  many  years  fruitful. 

PRUNING. — As  from  the  mode  of  bearing,  Apple  trees  do 
not  admit  of  shortening  in  the  general  bearers,  it  should  only 
be  practised  in  extraordinary  cases.  If  trees  have  not  the 
most  desirable  form  when  three  or  four  years  old,  they  should 
be  judiciously  pruned  to  promote  regular  spreading  branches* 
In  annual  pruning,  the  main  branches  should  not  be  cut, 
unless  in  cases  of  decay ;  but  all  superfluous  cross  branches 
and  dead  wood  should  be  taken  out,  and  the  suckers  eradi- 
cated. Espaliers  require  a  Summer  and  Winter  pruning. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APPLES, 

VMMER    FRUIT. 

AMERICAS  SUMMER  PEARMAIN,  Early  Summer  Pearmain.  This  ap* 
pie  is  of  medium  size  and  oblong  form;  its  colour  bright  red  on  the 
sunny  side,  and  on  the  opposite  side  yellow,  streaked  or  blotched  with 
red  ;  the  flesh  is  very  juicy,  tender,  fine  flavoured  and  excellent.  It 
ripens  early  in  August,  and  is  good  either  for  the  dessert  or  for  cooking. 
Tree  a  good  bearer. 

EARLY  BOUGH,  Sweet  Bough.  The  size  of  this  fruit  varies  from  me- 
dium to  large ;  its  colour  pale  yellow ;  its  form  oblong ;  its  skin  smooth ; 
flesh  tender,  juicy,  swe^t  and  excellent;  ripens  earl}'  in  August. 

EARLY  CROFTO.V,  or  Irish  Peach  Apple.  An  Irish  apple,  of  the  middle 
size  and  flattish  shape ;  of  an  olive  green  colour,  much  variegated  with 
red ;  has  a  rich  saccharine  flavour ;  ripens  in  August ;  it  is  much  esteemed 
for  the  dessert,  and  excellent  also  as  a  sauce  apple.  The  tree  grows 
well,  and  is  not  apt  to  canker. 

EARLY  HARVEST,  July  Pippin.  A  very  early  apple  of  bright  straw 
colour;  flesh  white  and  tender  ;  juice  rich,  lively,  and  very  fine.  The 
tree  bears  young,  and  makes  a  fine  garden  espalier ;  ripening  its  fruit 
in  July  and  August. 

EARLY  RED  MARGARET,  Red  Juneating,  Early  Striped  Juneating, 
Eve  Apple  of  the  Irish.  Fruit  below  the  middle  size;  skin  greenish 
yellow,  richly  and  closely  streaked  with  deep  red ;  flesh  white,  juicy, 
breaking,  sub-acid,  very  rich  and  agreeable  ;  early  in  August. 

RED  As  PRACAX.  This  beautiful  apple  is  of  medium  size  and  roundish ; 
the  skin  is  dark  red,  covered  with  thick  bloom  like  a  plum ;  the  flesh  is 
white,  tender,  and  somewhat  acid ;  at  perfection  early  in  August. 

23 


266  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APPLES. 

RED  QUAREWDBN,  Devonshire  Quarenden.  Sack  Apple.  A  much 
esteemed  Devonshire  apple;  of  medium  size;  skin  of  an  uniform  deep 
rich  crimson,  with  numerous  green  dots  intermixed ;  flesh  of  a  brisk, 
pleasant,  and  peculiar  flavour.  A  very  desirable  dessert  apple ;  from 
August  to  November;  tree  very  productive. 

SPRING  GROVE  CODLING.  Fruit  of  the  usual  codling  shape;  skin  pale, 
greenish  yellow,  tinged  with  orange  on  the  sunny  side ;  flesh  tender ; 
juice  saccharine,  a  little  acid,  mixed  with  a  very  slight  perfume  ;  good 
from  August  to  November. 

SUMMER  ROSE,  Harvest  Apple.  A  very  beautiful  and  excellent  fruit, 
of  moderate  size  and  round  form ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  striped  and  mottled 
with  red;  the  flesh  is  sweet,  juicy  and  fine  ;  in  July  and  August ;  tree  a 
great  bearer. 

SUMMER  PIPPIN,  Pie  Apple.  This  fruit  in  size  and  shape  resembles 
the  Fall  Pippin ;  it  differs  in  having  a  little  more  red  on  the  sunny  side, 
aud  in  arriving  at  maturity  about  a  fortnight  earlier.  It  is  a  very  popular 
npple  in  New  Jersey. 

WILLIAMS'S  FAVOURITE  RED.  This  apple  originated  in  Roxbury, 
Mass.;  it  is  of  medium  size,  oblong  form:  the  skin  a  bright  and  deep 
red ;  the  flavour  pleasant  end  agreeable.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer,  and 
it*  fruit  commands  a  good  price  in  the  Boston  markets ;  in  August  and 
September. 

AUTUMN    FRUIT. 

ALEXANDER,  Emperor  Alexander,  APORTA.  Fruit  very  large,  some- 
what cordate,  smallest  at  the  crown;  of  a  greenish  yellow  colour,  striped 
or  marbled  with  red ;  pulp  tender,  sweet,  rich  and  aromatic  ;  ripens  in 
October,  and  lasts  till  Christmas.  Though  a  large,  hardy  tree,  it  is  a 
medium  bearer,  but  a  magnificent  fruit. 

AMERICAN  NONPAREIL.  A  beautiful  apple  of  medium  size  and  ob- 
long form ;  its  colour  yellow,  streaked  and  stained  with  red  on  the  sunny 
side ;  flesh  firm,  juicy  and  agreeable.  A  very  fine  market  apple  in  Oc- 
tober and  November. 

DOWELL'S  PIPPIN.  In  size  and  form  this  apple  resembles  the  Rib- 
stone  Pippin,  but  is  more  pointed  at  the  head,  and  the  eye  is  sunk  in  a 
more  confined  and  deeper  cavity  ;  the  skin  is  green,  nearly  covered  with 
a  clear  thin  russet,  and  a  slight  tinge  of  brownish  red  on  the  sunny  side> 
an  excellent  dessert  apple  ;  from  October  to  Christmas. 

DOWNTON -PIPPIN,  E'ton  Golden  Pippin,  Knight's  Golden  Pippin, 
The  Downton  Golden  Pippin  is  a  most  abundant  bearer,  and  the  fruit 
extremely  well  adapted  for  market;  it  is  rather  larger  than  the  common 
Golden  Pippin;  skin  nearly  smooth;  yellow,  sprinkled  with  numerous 
•pecks  ;  flesh  yellowish,  crisp,  with  a  brisk,  rich,  sub-acid  juice.  Ripe  in 
October  and  November,  and  will  keep  good  till  Christmas. 

DRAP  D'Oa  OF  FRANCE,  Cloth  of  Gold.  This  apple  is  very  large 
and  handsome;  its  form  globular;  its  colour  a  fine  yellow,  with  dark 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APPLES.     "  267 

specks;  its  fltsh  white,  firm,  and  rich  flavoured.     A  most  productive 
variety ;  in  perfection  from  September  to  November. 

ENGLISH  CODLING,  Codling  of  Coxe.  Fruit  very  large  and  handsome ; 
of  oblong  form  ;  its  skin  a  fine  yellow,  with  red  blush  on  the  sunny  side ; 
its  flesh  white,  tender,  and  of  an  agreeable  acidity.  A  good  marketable 
apple  for  the  table,  and  for  cooking ;  from  September  to  November;  tree 
handsome  and  productive.  . 

FALL  PIPPIN.  Cobbett's  Fall  Pippin.  Reinnete  Blanche  D'Espagnt, 
D'Espagne,  De  Rateau,  Concomlre  Ancien,  White  Spanish  Reinette,  Ca- 
muesar.  This  extremely  valuable  variety  stands  in  the  first  class  of  Au- 
tumn fruits  ;  being  very  large  ;  its  form  is  roundish  oblong ;  skin  smooth? 
yellowish  green,  tinged  with  orange  ;  flesh  yellowish,  crisp  and  tender  - 
vvith  a  vjery  rich  sugary  juice.  It  ripens  in  October,  and  keeps  well  as  a 
Fall  Apple. 

FAMEOSE.  Pomme  de  Neige.  A  Canadian  Apple  of  great  beauty ;  in 
size  medium ;  skin  light  green,  stained  with  bright  red ;  flesh  white,  very 
tender ;  juice  saccharine,  with  a  musky  perfume ;  ripe  in  October,  and 
will  keep  good  till  Christmas. 

FRANKLIN  GOLDEN  PIPPIN.  Fruit  a  medium  size,  conical,  of  a  golden 
yellow  colour,  with  gray  and  dark-coloured  specks  ;  it  ripens  in  Novem* 
ber,  and  continues  till  March;  flesh  firm,  and  highly  aromatic;  tree 
rather  slender,  and  middling  bearer,  but  an  excellent  fruit. 

GOLDBN  RPSSET,  Aromatic  Russet.  A  dessert  apple,  of  medium  aize, 
and  of  a  pale  copper-coloured  russet;  in  great  repute  for  its  rich  saccha* 
rine,  aromatic,  and  slightly  musky  flavour.  The  tree  is  hardy  and  very 
productive  ;  in  October  and  November. 

GRA.VEXSTEII*.  Fruit  rather  large  and  compressed;  of  a  yellowish 
green  colour,  striped  with  red ;  flesh  crisp,  and  high  flavoured ;  ripens 
in  October,  and  lasts  till  April.  This  variety  originated  in  Germany,  and 
is  considered  the  best  dessert  apple  in  that  country. 

KENRICK:S  RED  AUTUMN.  A  native  apple  of  larsreish  dimension!', 
raised  by  John  Kenr'ck,  Esq.  of  Newton,  Mass. ;  colour  pale  green  in 
the  shade,  but  bright  red  next  the  sun,  and  streaked  with  deeper  red ;  the 
flesh  white,  stained  more  or  less  with  red  ;  tender,  juicy  and  rich,  with 
an  agreeable  sub-acid  flavour ;  ripe  in  October. 

KILHAM  HILL.  This  apple,  one  of  the  most  saleable  varieties  in 
Salem  markets,  originated  on  the  farm  of  Dr.  Kilham,  in  Wenham,  Essex 
County,  Mass.;  the  size  is  above  medium;  form  a  little  oblong;  the 
skin  yellow,  striped  with  red ;  the  flesh  is  yellow  and  high  flavoured; 
from  September  to  November, 

ORANGE  SWEETING,  Yellow  Sweeting.  This  variety  is  much  cultivated 
near  Hartford,  in  Connecticut,  for  the  Boston,  Providence  and  Philadel- 
phia markets ;  the  fruit  is  rather  large,  flattened  at  its  base  and  summit ; 
the  colour  yellow,  or  orange ;  flesh  very  sweet  and  excellent ;  from  Sep- 
tember to  December. 

RED  INGESTRIC.  A  first-rate  dessert  apple,  of  medium  size,  and  bright 
yellow  colour,  deeply  tinged  with  red ;  raised  by  Mr,  Knight, 


268 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APPLES. 


of  the  London  Horticultural  Society.  The  tree  bears  well  in  America, 
and  ripens  its  fruit  in  October,  which  is  very  rich,  juicy,  high  flavoured, 
and  grateful  to  the  palate.. 

RAMBO,  OR  ROMAN ITE,  Seek  no  Farther.  This  apple  is  much  cultiva- 
ted in  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey.  Its  form  is  flat,  resembling  the 
Vandervere  in  appearance,  but  is  a  more  juicy  fruit;  the  skin  pale  yel- 
low, streaked  with  red ;  flesh  tender  and  sprightly  during  the  Autumn 
months. 

RED  AND  GREKN  SWEETING,  Prince's  Large  Red  and  Green  Sweeting. 
The  fruit  is  of  oblong  shape ;  colour  green,  striped  with  red  ;  the  pulp 
is  very  sweet,  tender,  and  of  delicious  flavour  ;  from  September  to  No- 
vember. 

STROAT,  Straat.  A  fine  Autumn  Appl< ,  introduced  by  the  late  Jesse 
Buel,  Esq.  of  Albany ;  in  size  medium ;  form  rather  oblong ;  skin  yel- 
lowish green;  flesh  yellow  and  tender;  juice  rich  and  lively;  in  use 
from  September  to  December. 

YORK  RUSSETING.  A  very  large  russetty  apple,  well  known  abou* 
Boston.  Its  form  is  rather  oblong;  its  flesh  pleasant  and  agreeably 
acid ;  an  excellent  apple  ;  from.  October  to  December. 

WINTER   FRUIT* 

^Esopus  SPITZENBURG.  A  beautiful  apple;  large  and  oval;  of  red 
colour,  covered  with  numerous  white  specks ;  the  flesh  is  yellowish ; 
slightly  acid,  and  of  the  finest  flavour ;  ripens  in  October,  and  continues 
good  till  February. 

BALDWIN.  No  apple  in  the  B.ostoii  markets  is  more  popular  than 
vhis;  it  is  rather  above  medium  size  ;  its  ferm  round;  its  colour  bright 
red,  streaked  with  yellow ;  its  flesh  is  yellow,  juicy,  rich,  saccharine* 
with  a  most  agreeable  acid  flavour.  The  tree  bears  fruit  abundantly, 
which  ripens  in  November,  and  keeps  till  February  or  March. 

BALTIMORE.  A  remarkably  large  apple,  raised  by  Mr.  Smith,  near 
Baltimore  City ;  a  specimen  of  the  fruit  was  sent  to  London,  as  recorded 
in  the  London  Hert.  Trans,  vol,  3,  p.  120,  weighing  twenty-three 
ounces  and  a  half;  its  form  was  flat ;  skin  a  pale  citron,  with  a  faint 
blush  on  the  sunny  side;  flesh  good  flavoured,  and  close  at  the  core  ;  its 
circumference  was  fourteen  inches  arid  three  quarters,  and  height  four 
inches.  % 

BARCELONA  PEARMAIN,  Speckhd  Golden  Reinette,  Reinetle  Rouge, 
Reinette  Rousse,  Keinette  des  carmes,  Glace  Rouge,  Kleiner  Casseler  Re- 
inette. This  variety  is  said  to  be  a  very  productive  and  excellent  dessert 
apple ;  fruit  of  medium  size ;  oval,  not  angular ;  colour  brownish  yel- 
low in  the  shade,  deep  red  next  the  sun;  flesh  firm,  yellowish,  with  a 
rich  aromatic  agreeable  acid ;  from  November  till  February. 

BELL  FLOWER.  A  very  large  and  beautiful  apple,  its  colour  bright 
yellow,  with  an  occasional  blush  on  the  sunny  side;  its  form  oblong; 
the  flesh  tender,  juicy,  rich,  and  finely  flavoured,  and  is  alike  excellent 


DESCRIPTIVE   LIST  OP  APPLES.     ' 

Tor  the  dessert  or  for  cooking.     It  ripens  early  in  November,  and  will 
keep  all  the  winter. 

BLENHEIM  PIPPIN,  Woodstock  Pippin,  Blenheim  Orange.  Fruit 
large,  roundish,  of  a  yellowish  colour,  tinged  with  red  next  the  sun ; 
pulp  sweet  and  high  flavoured  ;  ripe  in  November,  and  keeps  till  March  ; 
a  very  superior  dessert  apple. 

BLUE  PEARMAIX.  This  variety  is  well  known  about  Boston  as  a 
large  apple,  of  red  colour,  covered  with  a  dense  blue  bloom,  and  of  a 
delicious  flavour ;  good  as  a  dessert  or  for  cooking ;  from  October  to 
January.  The  tree  grows  strong,  and  is  very  productive. 

Court T  PENDU,  Capendu,  Court  Pendu  Plat,  Garnon's  Apple  An 
estimable  dessert  apple,  of  medium  size  ;  in  shape  round,  depressed  ; 
the  colour  yellow,  a  good  deal  covered  with  full  red;  it  is  of  a  high  sac- 
charine flavour  and  of  close  consistence  ;  the  fruit  keeps  till  February 
or  March.  The  tree  grows  upright,  and  bears  well. 

DANVER'S  WINTER  SWEET.  This  variety  originated  on  the  farm  of 
W.  P.  Enuict,  Esq,  of  Danvers,  near  Saltm,  Mass.;  fruit  of  medium 
size ;  a  little  oblong ;  skin  yellow,  slightly  tinged  with  red ;  its  flesh 
sweet  and  excellent  cooked,  or  as  dessert;  from  November  to  April. 

GOLDE.V  HARVEY,  Brandy  Apple.  A  dessert  apple,  not  larger  than 
the  Golden  Pippin ;  colour  light  yellow,  with  a  flush  of  red,  and  em 
broidered  with  a  roughish  russet.  It  is  called  Brandy  Apple  from  the 
superior  specific  strength  of  its  juice,  being  1085;  it  is  of  remarkably 
close  texture,  very  rich  in  flavour,  and  will  keep  till  April  or  May. 

GREE>*  SWEET,  Green  Sweeting.  This  apple  is  much  cultivated  in 
Massachusetts.  It  is  of  medium  size  ;  the  skin  dull  green,  approaching 
to  yellow ;  the  flesh  very  sweet  and  delicious.  It  possesses  the  valuable 
property  of  retaining  its  soundness  till  May  or  June. 

HAWTHORDEN.  The  fruit  is  large,  rather  flat,  and  of  a  pale  greenish 
yellow,  tinged  with  blush  on  one  side ;  it  ripens  in  August,  and  continues 
till  January  ;  the  pulp  soft,  juicy  and  acid;  a  very  hardy  tree ;  a  great 
bearer,  and  the  fruit  good  for  all  kitchen  purposes. 

HUBBARDSTOX  No.vsucH.  A  large  apple  of  globular  form ;  red  and 
yellow  colour,  streaked  and  blotched;  the  flesh  is  juicy  and  of  excellent 
flavour  ;  from  December  to  Ma  ch.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth,  a 
great  bearer,  and  worthy  of  extensive  cultivation. 

LADY  APPLE,  Pommc  d'Api.  Fruit  small,  flat ;  of  pale  yellow  co- 
lour, tinged  with  a  deep  red  on  the  side  ;  flesh  crisp,  sprightly  and  plea- 
sant ;  ripens  in  November,  and  continues  till  April.  It  is  a  very  sale- 
able fruit  on  account  of  its  great  beauty. 

LEMON-  PIPPIN.  An  old  and  much  esteemed  dessert  apple;  of  me- 
dium size  and  oval  shape,  much  like  a  lemon  both  in  form  and  colour, 
having  a  firm  texture,  brisk  flavour,  and  plenty  of  acid;  from  October 
to  March.  Tree  handsome,  and  a  great  bearer. 

MALCARLE,  Charles  Apple,  Mela  Carle,  Pomme  Finale.  A  far-famed 
fruit.  In  the  climate  of  Ita;y,  this  is  supposed  to  be  the  best  apple  in 
the  world.  It  is  cultivated  extensively  in  the  territories  of  Genoa,  as  an 

23* 


2T70  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  APPLES. 

article  of  export  and  commerce  to  Nice,  Barcelona,  Cadiz,  and  Mar- 
seilles. The  fruit  is  rather  large,  its  form  inclining  to  globular.  Its 
beautiful  waxen  skin  is  a  little  marbled  with  a  very  faint  green  near  the 
eye ;  its  colour  in  the  shade  is  a  pale  yellow,  tinged  with  flaming  crimson 
next  the  sun ;  the  flesh  is  white,  tender,  delicate,  sweet,  with  the  fra- 
grant perfume  of  roses.  It  ripens  in  September,  and  will  keep  till 
Spring. 

MONSTROUS  PIPPIN,  New-York  Gloria  Mundi.  Fruit  of  enormous 
size,  often  weighing  twenty -five  ounces  or  more  ^  of  a  pale  lemon  co-- 
lour; flesh  tender,  and  of  a  sprightly  flavour,  excellent  ft  »r  cooking  ;. 
ripens  in  October,  and  continues  fit  for  use  till  January. 

NEWTOWN  PIPPIN,  American  Newtown  Pippin,  Yellow  Newtown 
Pippin.  This  variety,  when  perfectly  matured,  is  considered  by  some 
as  the  finest  apple  in  our  country  \  its  skin  is  green,  changing  to  an 
olive  yellow  at  maturity,  having  a  thin  russet  covering  the  greatest 
part  of  the  base  ;  flesh  pale  yellow  and  firm;  juice  saccharine,  and  pos- 
sessing a  rich  and  highly  aromatic  flavour ;  from  December  to  April. 

NEWTOWN  SPITZENBURG,  Matchless.  A  beautiful  apple  of  medium 
size  ;  skin  streaked,  and  tinged  with  red  and  yellow  ;  tlesh  yellow,  rich 
and  highly  flavoured  ;  from  October  till  February. 

NORFOLK  BEAUFIN.  Fruit  middling  size,  flattish,  of  a  deep  red  and 
pale  green  colour ;  it  ripens  in  November,  and  is  frequently  to  be  ob- 
tained in  England  in  July  following ;  the  flesh  is  firm  and  savoury ;  the 
tree  hardy,  upright,  a  good  bearer;  fruit  excellent  for  use  in  the  kitchen, 
and  highly  esteemed  for  the  dessert. 

ORTLKY  PIPPIN,  Ortley  Apple.  A  fruit  very  much  resembling  the 
Yellow  Newtown  Pippin,  but  a  little  more  oval ;  skin  bright  yellow  in 
the  shade,  and  bright  scarlet  with  russetty  spots  next  the  sun;  flesh  yel- 
lowish, crisp  and  breaking ;  very  juicy,  with  the  same  pine  apple  flavour 
which  distinguishes  the  Newtown  Pippin;  geod  from  November  to 
April. 

PENNOCK'S  RED  WINTER  Fruit  very  large  and  compressed;  of 
deep  red  colour,  streaked  with  yellow  ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  and  of  sweet 
and  pleasant  flavour ;  ripens  in  November,  and  will  keep  good  till 
March.  It  is  a  very  popular  apple  in  the  Philadelphia  markets. 

P. NE  APPLE  RUSSET,  Hardingham's  Russet.  This  delicious  apple  u 
above  the  middle  size,  roundi-h,  ovate  ;  skin  pale  greenish  yellow,  with 
white  specks,  and  partially  russetty;  juice  abundant;  flesh  of  a  spicy  t 
aromatic,  pine-apple  flavour,  hence  its  name ;  ripe  in  September. 

RHODE  ISLAND  GREENING*  Fruit  large  and  depressed  at  maturity  ; 
greenish  yellow ;  slightly  acid,  and  ef  the  finest  flavour;  ripens  in  No- 
vember, and  continues  till  April.  A  most  estimable  apple  for  cooking 
as  well  as  for  the  dessert. 

RIBSTONE  Pippric,  ^Formosa  Pippin,  Traver's  Apple,  Glory  of  York. 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  roundish,  and  partially  depressed;  of  a  pale  yel- 
low colour,  tinged  with  red;  pulp  slightly  acid,  and  of  fine  flavour; 
ripens  in  November,  and  continues  till  April  It  i»  one  of  the  most 
popular  dessert  apples  in  England. 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  APPLES.  271 

ROXBURY  RUSSET.  This  variety  is  cultivated  extensively  in  Massa- 
chusetts for  the  Boston  markets,  and  for  exportation.  The  fruit  is  of 
medium  size  ;  of  a  fine  yellow  ru-set  colour,  mixed  with  dull  red  ;  flesh 
white,  juicy,  rich,  sub-acid  and  excellent ;  for  use  in  Winter,  and  will 
keep  till  June 

SWAAR  APPLE.  A  much  celebrated  Winter  table  fruit  in  some  parts 
of  New  York  and  New  Jersey ;  it  is  a  large  green  apple  of  uncommon 
flavour  and  richness  ;  highly  deserving  cultivation  in  every  collection  of 
fine  fruit  ;  good  till  March. 

VANDEVERE.  An  apple  of  medium  size,  the  form  flat;  skin  pale  red, 
with  rough  yellowish  blotches ;  flesh  yellow  and  tender ;  juice  plentiful, 
rich  and  sprightly  ;  from  October  to  January. 

WHITS:  WINTER  CALVILLE,  Calville  Blanche  (THiver,  Bonnet  carre. 
This  fruit  is  large  ;  its  colour  at  maturity  bright  yellow,  tinged  with  red ;. 
its  form  rather  flat ;  flesh  white,  tender,  and  pleasant;  from  November 
to  March.  Tree  an  abundant  bearer. 

WINE  APPLE,  Hay's  Winter,  Large  Winter  Red.  A  variety  highly 
esteemed  in  the  Philadelphia  markets;  the  fruit  is  large;  of  bright  red 
colour,  striped  with  yellow,  the  stalk  end  russetty ;  its  flesh  is  rich,  aro- 
matic, and  pleasant ;  from  October  to  February.  The  tree  bears  young 
and  abundantly. 

WINTER  SWEETING,  Graften  Sweeting,  Seaver  Sweeting.  This  apple 
is  large  ;  its  skin  smooth,  of  a  bright  yellow  colour,  tinged  with  blush  ; 
its  flesh  yellow,  juicy,  sweet,  and  fine  flavoured ;  from  November  until 
March. 

CIDER    FRUIT. 

CAMPFIELD,  OR  NEWARK  SWEETING.  This  apple  is  next  in  reputa- 
tion, as  a  cider  fruit,  to  the  Harrison,  and  is  often  mixed  with  that  apple 
jn  equal  proportions  when  ground  ;  it  is  of  the  middle  size,  skin  smooth,- 
of  red  and  yellow  colour ;  the  flesh  is  white,  firm,  sweet,  and  rich. 

GRANNIWINKLE.  Fruit  of  moderate  size,  rather  oblong;  the  skin  a 
dark  red,  somewhat  rough  ;  flesh  yellow,  sweet  and  rich.  It  is  com- 
monly mixed  with  the  Harrison  for  making  cider  of  a  superior  quality  ; 
ripe  in  November. 

HEWE'S  VIRGINIA  CRAB.  From  this  fruit  is  obtained  the  celebrated 
Crab  Cider ;  it  is  of  small  size,  nearly  round  ;  skin  of  a  dull  red,  streaked 
with  greenish  yellow ;  the  flesh  is  fibrous  and  astringent ;  juice  acid  and 
austere. 

HARRISON*.  This  fruit  is  much  celebrated  in  New  Jersey  as  a  cider 
apple  ;  it  is  somewhat  ovate,  below  the  middle  size  ;  the  skin  is  yellow, 
with  black  spots ;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  rich  and  sprightly.  Ten  buahels 
will  make  a  barrel  of  exquisite  cider,  from  which  may  be  taken  fourteeu 
quart*  of  distilled  spirits. 


272 
APRICOT. 

ABRICOTIER.     Prunus  Armeniaca* 

THE  fruit  of  the  Apricot  is  next  in  esteem  to  the  Peach, 
and  as  it  ripens  three  or  four  weeks  earlier,  should  be  more 
generally  cultivated.  The  flowers  appear  in  April,  on  the 
shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  and  on  spurs  of  two  or  more 
years'  growth,  and  the  fruit  ripens  in  July  and  August.  The 
London  Horticultural  Society's  catalogue  describes  fifty- 
four  sorts,  and  Messrs.  Prince  have  forty-four  in  their  cata- 
logue ;  besides  these,  is  the  Peach  Apricot,  a  large  fruit, 
supposed  to  be  a  hybrid  between  a  Peach  and  an  Apricot. 

Our  enterprising  fellow-citizen,  Mr.  Wm.  Shaw,  has  suc- 
ceeded for  many  years  in  maturing  large  quantities  of  this 
excellent  fruit  on  standards;  but  they  ripen  best  when  trained 
against  close  fences.  In  England  some  of  the  varieties  are 
cultivated  as  standards  and  espaliers  ;  they  seldom  bear  much 
fruit  under  ten  or  twelve  years ;  and  then  the  fruit  is  abun- 
dant and  of  the  finest  flavour.  They  are  commonly  culti- 
vated as  wall  trees,  in  an  East  or  West  aspect ;  for  if  thCy 
are  planted  to  face  the  South,  the  great  heat  causes  them  to 
be  mealy  before  they  are  eatable.  New  varieties  are  procured 
from'seed,  as  in  the  Peach,  and  approved  sorts  are  perpetu- 
ated by  budding  on  plum  stocks,  &c. 

The  varieties  of  the  Apricot,  in  genera],  bear  chiefly  upon 
the  young  shoots  of  last  year,  and  casually  upon  small  spurs 
rising  on  the  two  or  three  years  old  fruit  branches.  The 
Moor  Park  bears  chiefly  on  the  last  year's  shoots,  and  on 
close  spurs  formed  on  the  two  year  old  wood.  The  bearing 
shoots  emit  the  blossom  buds  immediately  from  the  eyes 
along  the  sides,  and  the  buds  have  a  round  and  swelling 
appearance. 

Apricot  trees  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the  head 
is  formed  :  some  head  them  down  in  the  nursery  bed,  and 
remove  them  to  their  destined  places  when  five  or  six 
years  old. 

Standards  will  require  only  occasional  pruning  to  regulate 
such  branches  as  may  be  too  numerous,  too  extended  OE 


APRICOT.  273 

cross  formed,  and  to  remove  any  casually  unfruitful  parts 
and  dead  wood  ;  but  the  regular  branches,  forming  the  head 
of  the  tree,  should  not  be  shortened  unless  necessary. 

The  general  culture  of  the  wall  Apricots  comprehends  a 
Summer  and  Winter  course  of  regulation,  by  pruning  and 
training.  The  fan  method  is  generally  adopted,  but  some 
prefer  training  horizontally.  With  young  trees  some  contrive 
to  fill  the  wall  by  heading  down  twice  a  year. 

The  Winter,  or  early  Spring  management,  comprehends 
a  general  regulation  both  of  the  last  year's  shoots  and  the 
older  branches.  A  general  supply  of  the  most  regularly 
situated  young  shoots  must  be  every  where  retained,  for 
successionul  bearers  the  ensuing  year.  Cut  out  such 
branches  as  are  not  furnished  with  competent  supplies  of 
young  wood,  or  with  fruit  spurs,  to  make  room  for  training 
a  general  supply  of  the  most  promising  branches  retained. 
Generally  observe  in  this  pruning  to  retain  one  leading 
shoot  at  the  end  of  each  branch;  either  a  naturally  placed 
terminal,  or  one  formed  by  cutting  (where  a  vacancy  is  to 
be  furnished)  into  a  proper  leader.  Let  the  shoots  retained 
for  bearers  be  moderately  shortened  :  reduce  strong  shoots 
in  the  least  proportioned — cutting  off  one-fourth  or  less  of 
their  length ;  from  weak  shoots  take  away  a  third,  and 
sometimes  a  half.  This  shortening  will  conduce  to  the 
production  of  a  competency  of  lateral  shoots  the  ensuing 
Summer,  from  the  lower  and  middle  placed  eyes ;  whereas 
without  it,  the  new  «hoots  would  proceed  mostly  from  the 
top,  and  leave  the  underpartof  the  principal  branches  naked, 
and  the  lower  and  middle  parts  of  the  tree  unfurnished  with 
proper  supplies  of  bearing  wood.  Never  prune  below  all 
the  blossom  buds,  except  to  provide  wood,  in  which  case 
cut  nearer  to  the  origin  of  the  branch.  As,  in  these  trees, 
small  fruit  spurs,  an  inch  or  two  long,  often  appear  on  some 
of  the  two  or  three  years'  branches  furnished  with  blossom 
buds,  these  spurs  should  generally  be  retained  for  bearing. 
As  each  tree  is  pruned,  nail  it,  laying  in  the  branches  and 
shoots  from  three  to  six  inches  distance,  straight  or  close  to 
the  fence  or  wall. 

The  Summer  pruning  is  principally  to  regulate  the  young 


274  APRICOT. 

shoots  of  the  same  year.  In  the  first  place,  take  off  close 
all  the  irregular  fdremost  shoots,  taking  care  to  retain  a 
competent  supply  of  choice  side  shoots,  with  a  good  leader 
to  each  parent  branch.  Continue  these  mostly  at  full  length 
all  the  Summer,  regularly  trained  in,  to  procure  a  sufficiency 
to  choose  from  in  the  general  Winter  pruning,  for  new 
bearers  the  next  year. 

If  the  Summer  regulation  commences  early,  while  the 
shoots  are  quite  young,  and,  as  it  were,  herbaceous,  those 
improper  to  retain  may  be  detached  with  the  finger  and 
thumb,  i  but  when  of  firmer  growth,  they  must  be  removed 
with  the  knife.  If  any  very  strong  shoots  rise  in  any  part 
where  the  wood  is  deficient,  they  may  be  topped  in  June? 
which  will  cause  them  to  produce  several  laterals  the  same 
year,  eligible  for  training  in,  to  supply  the  vacancy. 

Sometimes  the  fruit  is  much  too  numerous,  if  not  attacked 
by  insects,  often  growing  in  clusters  ;  in  which  case  thin 
them  while  in  a  young  green  state,  leaving  the  most  pro- 
minent fruit  singly,  at  three  or  four  inches  distance,  or  from 
about  two  to  six  on  the  respective  shoots,  according  to  their 
strength.  The  Apricots  so  thined  off,  and  the  first  prin- 
cipal green  fruit,  are  very  fine  for  tarts. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  APRICOTS, 

BREDA,  Abricot  de  Hollande,  Amande  Aveline,  Royal  Persian  Fruit 
medium  size,  of  a  round  form,  and  deep  yellow  colour ;  the  pulp  is  soft 
and  juicy  ;  the  tree  a  great  bearer,  and  the  fruit  which  ripens  early  in 
August,  is  in  great  esteem. 

BRUSSELS..  Highly  esteemed  for  its  productiveness;  fruit  medium 
size,  inclining  to  an  oval  form  ;  of  a  yellow  colour,  and  next  the  sun  co- 
vered with  numerous  dark  spots  ;  the  flesh  is  of  a  greenish  yeljow  colour, 
of  a  brisk  flavour;  and  not  liable  to  become  mealy ;  ripens  in  August. 

EARLY  ORANGE,  Royal  George,  Royal  Orange.  The  fruit  of  a  medium 
»ize  ;  of  a  deep  yellow  colour,  spotted  with  red  or  dark  purple  next  the 
•un  ;  flesh  deep  orange,  succulent  and  well  flavoured ;  not  perfectly  a 
free  stone ;  ripens  early  in  August. 

HEMSKIRKE.  Fruit  middle  sized,  roundish,  slightly  compressed;  of  a 
bright  yellow  colour ;  flesh  tender,  juicy,  with  a  particularly  rich,  deli- 
fate  flavour,  resembling  that  of  the  Gr^en  Gage  Plum  ;  ripe  in  July. 


ALMOND.  275 

MOORPARK,  Hanson's,  Temple's,  Dunmore's  Breda.  The  tree  is  of 
vigorous  growth,  and  extraordinarily  productive  ;  the  fruit  is  very  large ; 
of  a  bright  gold  colour,  or  orange,  with  dark  spots  next  the  sun;  flesh 
orange  colour,  melting  and  excellent ;  ripens  early  in  September. 

MUSCH.  A  fine  new  variety  from  Persia  ;  in  shape  round;  of  a  deep 
yellow  colour,  and  remarkable  for  the  transparency  of  its  pulp,  through 
which  the  stone  is  visible;  the  flesh  is  very  fine  and  agreeable;  ripens 
in  July. 

PEACH  APRICO  r,  Abricot  PecJie,  Abricot  de  Nancy,  Imperial  Ansonsf 
This  is  a  first-rate  fruit ;  form  variable,  generally  flattened  ;  skin  slightly 
downy ;  fawn  colour  next  the  sun,  tinged  with  reddish  spots  or  points  ; 
pulp  yellow,  melting,  juice  abundant,  high  flavoured  and  excellent; 
ripen§  early  in  August. 

PURPLE,  Alexandrian  Abricot,  Abricot  Angoumois,  Abricot  Violet 
Black  Apricot.  A  small,  globular,  downy  fruit,  a  little  oblong  ;  of  a  pate 
red  colour,  becoming  deep  red  or  purple  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  pale  red, 
but  orange  next  the  stone  ;  a  little  acid,  but  good ;  ripens  in  August. 

RED  MASCULIXE,  Abricot  Precoce,  Abricot  HatifMusque,  Early  Mascu- 
line. This  is  an  old  and  very  early  variety  ;  the  fruit  of  which  is  small, 
of  a  roundish  form,  and  greenish  red  colour ;  the  pulp  is  tender ;  the  tre« 
a  good  bearer,  and  the.  fruit  esteemed  for  its  earliness  and  tart  tast«  ; 
ripens  in  July. 

ROYAL,  Abri-ot  Royale.  This  fruit  is  next  in  size  to  the  Moorpark* 
rather  oval,  compressed ;  of  dull  yellow  colour,  slightly  red  ;  flesh  pale 
orange,  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  and  high  flavoured,  with  a  slight  acid  ;  ripene 
early  in  August. 

TURKEY,  Large  Turkey.  A  superior  Apricot;  fruit  of  a  medium  size ; 
deep  yellow  colour,  with  red  blotches  next  the  sun ;  form  globular ;  flesh 
firm,  juicy,  rich  and  excellent ;  ripe  in  July  and  August. 


ALMOND. 

AMANDIER.     Jlmygdalus. 

ALTHOUGH  Almonds  are  not  much  cultivated  in  this  part 
of  our  country,  they  are  entitled  to  notice.  The  species  are 
fruit  trees,  or  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  both  much 
esteemed  for  the  gay  colour  and  early  appearance  of  their 
flowers  ;  these  vary  in  their  colour  from  the  fine  blush  of 
the  Apple  blossom  to  a  snowy  whiteness.  The  chief 
obvious  distinction  is  in  the  fruit,  which  is  flatter,  with  a 
coriaceous  covering,  instead  of  the  rich  pulp  of  the  Peach 


CHERRV. 

and  Nectarine,  opening  spontaneously  when  the  kernel  is 
ripe.  It  is  a  native  of  Barbary,  China,  and  most  Eastern 
countries.  There  are  twenty-one  sorts  described  in  the 
catalogue  of  the  Linna3an  Botanic  Garden  at  Flushing  ; 
some  of  which  are  represented  as  new  kinds  from  France 
and  Italy,  where  they  are  cultivated  extensively  for  their 
fruit. 

In  France,  they  have  above  a  dozen  species  or  varieties, 
besides  a  hybrid,  called  the  Almond  Peach.  The  common 
and  bitter  Almond  are  only  to  be  distinguished  by  the  taste 
of  the  kernels  of  their  fruit,  which  is  the  only  part  used. 
The  tender-shelled  is  in  the  greatest  esteem,  and  next,  the 
sweet  and  Jordan.  The  bitter  cuticle,  or  skin  of  Almonds, 
is  taken  off  by  immersion  in  boiling  water. 

The  sweet  Almond  and  other  varieties  are  used  as  a 
desert  in  a  green  or  imperfectly  ripe,  and  also  in  a  ripe  or 
dried  state.  They  are  much  used  in  cookery,  confectionary, 
perfumery,  and  medicine. 

The  Almond  is  propagated  by  seed,  for  varieties1  or 
for  stocks;  and  by  budding  on  its  own,  or  on  Plum 
stocks,  for  continuing  varieties.  The  Almond  tree  bears 
chiefly  on  the  young  wood  of  the  previous  year,  and  in 
part  upon  small  spurs  or  minor  branches  ;  it  is  therefore 
pruned  like  the  Apricot  and  Peach,  and  its  culture  in  other 
respects  is  the  same. 


CHERRY. 

CERISIER.     Prunus  cerasus. 

THE  Cherry,  of  the  cultivated  varieties,  is  said  to  have 
been  first  introduced  into  Italy  in  the  year  73,  from  a  town 
in  Pontus,  in  Asia,  called  Cerasus,  whence  its  specific  name; 
and  it  was  introduced  into  Britain  one  hundred  and  twenty 
years  afterwards. 

The  Romans  had  eight  varieties  of  Cherries,  red,  black, 
tender-fleshed,  hard-fleshed,  small  bitter  flavoured,  and 
heart-shaped.  There  are  now  upwards  of  two  hundred  in 


CHERRY.  277 

cultivation.  Tlie  French  divide  their  Cherries  into  griottes, 
or  tender-fleshed;  bigareau,  or  heart-shaped,  and  guignes, 
or  small  fruit.  The  fruit  of  many  varieties  is  somewhat 
heart- shaped,  whence  they  are  called  ox-heart,  white-heart, 
black-heart,  &c. ;  why  some  sorts  are  called  dukes,  is  not 
so  obvious.  The  morello  cherry  is  very  different  from  the 
other  varieties,  bearing  almost  exclusively  from  the  preceding 
year's  wood,  and  the  pulp  of  the  fruit  having  the  consistence 
and  flavour  of  the  fungi  called  morel ;  whence  the  name. 
The  Chinese  Cherry  is  valuable  on  account  of  its  bearing 
an  excellent  fruit,  and  ripening  it  in  forcing- ho  uses. 

Cherries  are  grafted,  or  budded  on  seedlings  from  Cherry 
stones,  and  from  seedlings  of  the  red  and  black  mazzard. 
For  dwarfing  they  are  worked  on  the  morello,  or  perfumed 
Cherry  ;  the  latter  is  preferred  in  Holland.  In  jhis  country, 
the  budding  system  is  more  frequently  practised  on  stone 
fruit  in  general,  than  grafting. 

Cherry  trees,  in  general,  produce  the  fruit  upon  small 
spurs  or  studs,  from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  length, 
which  proceed  from  the  sides  and  ends  of  the  two  year, 
three  year  and  older  branches,  and  as  new  spurs  continue 
shooting  from  the  extreme  parts,  it  is  a  maxim  in  pruning 
both  standards  and  espaliers,  not  to  shorten  the  bearing 
branches  when  there  is  room  for  their  regular  extension. 

The  morello  is  in  some  degree  an  exception,  as  it  bears 
principally  on  the  shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  the  fruit 
proceeding  immediately  from  the  eyes  of  shoots  ;  and 
bears  bat  casually,  and  in  a  small  degree,  on  close  spurs 
formed  on  the  two  year  old  wood,  and  scarcely  ever  on 
wood  of  the  third  year;  therefore,  in  pruning,  leave  a  supply 
of  young  shoots  on  all  the  branches  from  the  origin  to  the 
extremity  of  the  tree,  for  next  year's  bearers* 

All  kinds  of  Cherry  trees,  except  the  morello,  are  apt  to 
grow  very  tall ;  to  remedy  this,  and  to  enable  them  to  form 
handsome  heads,  the  leading  shoot  should  be  cut  off,  when 
about  three  years1  growth  from  the  bud ;  after  which  give 
only  occasional  pruning,  to  reform  or  remove  any  casual 
irregularity  from  cross-placed  or  very  crowded  branches, 
and  take  away  all  cankery  and  decayed  wood. 

24 


278  CHERRY. 

Dwarf  Cherry  trees  may  be  introduced  into  the  Kitchen 
Garden,  and  trained  as  espaliers,  &c.  When  morellos  are 
planted  in  an  orchard,  they  may  be  placed  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  feet  apart  ;  trees  of  the  duke  kind  may  be  planted 
from  twenty -five  to  thirty  feet  apart  ;  and  the  heart-shaped 
in  general,  will  require  to  be  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  from 
each  other,  or  from  any  other  spreading  trees. 

Cherry  trees  may  be  removed  the  first  year  after  the 
bud  is  established ;  but  they  will  bear  removing  at  any 
time  before  they  come  into  bearing,  which  is  about  the 
fifth  year. 

The  gum  which  exudes  from  Cherry  trees  is  equal  to 
gum  arabic ;  and  Hasselquist  relates,  "that  more  than  one 
hundred  men,  during  a  siege,  were  kept  alive  for  nearly 
two  months,  without  any  other  sustenance  than  a  little  of 
this  gum  taken  sometimes  into  the  mouth,  and  suffered 
gradually  to  dissolve."  The  wood  is  hard  and  tough,  and 
used  by  the  turner  and  cabinet  maker. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  CHERRIES. 


DUKE  AND  ROUND  FRUIT. 

A  MB  REE,  Ceiise  Amlree.  A  large  cherry  with  a  round  head,  flattened 
at  the  opposite  end ;  marbled  with  red  and  yellow  in  the  shade,  bright 
red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  somewhat  transparent,  very  juicy, 
sweet,  and' excellent;  ripe  in  June  and  July/ 

ARCH  DUKE,  Griotte  de  Portugal,  Portugal  Duke.  A  large  globular 
red  cherry;  like  the  May  Duke,  it  grows  in  clusters, but  the  tree  grows 
more  vigorous  than  that  variety;  an  excellent  Cherry,  and  a  great 
bearer  ;  ripe  in  July. 

BELLE  DE  CHOISY,  Cerise  de  la  Palembree,  Cerise  Doucette.  A  middle- 
sized,  roundish  fruit,  growing  in  pairs  on  a  forked  stalk ;  skin  transrpa- 
rerit,  red,  mottled  with  amber ;  flesh  amber-coloured,  tender  and  sweet ; 
ripe  in  June  and  July. 

BELLE  ET  MAGXIFIQ,UE.  A  fine  cherry,  much  esteemed  in  Massachu- 
setts. The  tree  is  said  to  be  vigorous  and  productive ;  the  fruit  truly 
magnificent;  its  colour  red,  mottled  with  white  spots;  valuable  from  its 
late  maturity  in  July. 

DOWNER'S  FAVOURITE.  A  large  round  cherry  ,raised  by  S.  Downer, 
Esq.  of  Dorchester,  Mass.;  colour  light  red;  flesh  firm  and  of  a  fine 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  CHERRIES.  *279 

sprightly  flavour ;  ripening  aftermost  other  superior  varieties  are  gone, 
on  which  account  this  variety  is  highly  prized  in  the  markets. 

HOLMA.V'S  DUKE.  The  branches  of  this  tree  are  more  spreading  than 
the  May  Duke  ;  the  fruit  is  larger,  of  equally  fine  flavour,  and  ripens 
about  two  or  three  weeks  later,  on  which  account  it  is  highly  esteemed. 

KESTISH,  Flemish.  A  middle-sized  fruit,  roundish,  flattened  at  both 
ends ;  skin  dingy  red,  marbled;  flesh  succulent,  with  a  somewhat  astrin- 
gent but  saccharine  juice ;  makes  a  delicious  sweetmeat ;  amd  will  keep 
a  year  by  laying  the  fruit  on  hair  sieves  exposed  to  the  sun  in  July. 

LA.TE  DUKE,  June  Duke,  Cerise,  Anglaise,  Tardive.  A  cherry  of  large 
size  ;  flesh  very  rich;  it  ripens  in  July,  and  lasts  long  on  the  tree,  im- 
proving in  its  flavour.  The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth,  and  an  abundant 
bearer. 

MAT  DUKE.  An  early  globular  r^d  cherry,  of  medium  size ;  it  ripens 
in  June  the  flesh  is  of  a  soft  and  an  agreeable  acid;  the  tree  a  good 
bearer,  and  the  fruit  excellent. 

MORELLO,  Milan,  Cerise  da,  Nord,  English  Morello,  The  fruit  ia  so 
named  from  its  juice  being  similar  to  that  of  the  Mortis,  or  Mulberry. 
It  is  a  delicious,  medium-sized,  round  cherry ;  nearly  black  when  at 
maturity ;  tree  a  great  bearer ;  the  fruit  will  keep  late,  and  is  excellent 
for  preserving  and  for  brandy. 

PLCMSTONE  MORELLO.  A  tree  of  moderate  size,  of  the  Duke  or 
Kentish  species ;  a  very  large,  dark,  round  cherry,  nearly  black ;  of  a 
rich  acid  flavour*  The  stone  is  very  large,  and  resembles  that  of  a 
plum;  a  native  of  Virginia,  introduced  by  Win:  Prince,  Esq  of  the 
Linnaen  Botanic  Garden,  Flushing. 

WATERLOO.  A  large,  round,  dark  cherry,  inclining  to  black  at  matu- 
rity ;  the  flesh  is  firm  and  of  an  excellent  flavour ;  raised  by  a  daughter 
of  Mr.  Knight,  and  so  named  from  its  perfecting  its  fruit  soon  after  the 
battle  of  Waterloo.  The  tree  is  of  strong  but  irregular  growth,  and 
ripens'its  fruit  in  July. 

HEART-SHAPED  OR  BIGARREAUS. 

BIGARREAU,  Graffion,  Turkey  Bigarreau,  Yellow  Spanish.  Verylarge; 
obtuse,  heart-shaped;  yellowish  amber  colour,  but  fine  red  next  the  sun ; 
flesh  firm,  white,  sweet,  and  well  flavoured  ;  a  beautiful  and  excellent 
fruit ;  ripe  in  June  and  July. 

BLACK  EAGLE.  A  beautiful  variety  raised  by  Miss  Knight  of  Down- 
ton  Castle,  1806  :  fruit  of  globular  form,  and  middle  size  ;  skin  dark 
purple  or  nearly  black;  flesh  very  tender,  rich,  and  of  excellent  flavour. 
The  tree  grows  strong,  very  upright,  and  ripens  its  fruit  early. 

BLACK  HEART,  Guignier  a  Fruit  noir.  Fruit  rather  large,  heart- 
shaped;  dark  purple,  approaching  to  black  at  maturity  ;  flesh  dark  red, 
tender,  of  excellent  flavour;  ripe  early  in  July;  tree  a  good  bearer. 

BLACK  TARTARIAN,  Black  Circassian,  Fraser's  Black  Tartarian, 
Slack  Russian,  Ranald's  Large  Black  Heart,  Fraser's  Black  Heart. 


280  DESCBIPTIVE  LIST  ON  CHERRIES. 

A  very  large  heart-shaped  fruit,  of  a  most  superior  quality ;  colour  dark 
shining  purple,  or  black  ;  flesh  firm,  dark  red  or  purple  ;  sweet,  and  of 
most  excellent  flavour;  in  June  and  July.  The  tree  grows  rapid,  and 
is  very  productive. 

DOWN-TOUT.  A  new  variety  raised  by  Mr.  Knight.  Fruit  rather 
round,  inclining  to  heart-shape;  of  a  pale  yellow  colour,  sprinkled  with 
minute  red  spots,  and  large  patches  of  dull  red  or  maroon  ;  flesh  pale 
amber  coloi.fr,  tender  and  juicy,  very  sweet  and  high  flavoured;  ripens 
in  June  and  July. 

ELTON.  This  excellent  variety  was  raised  by  Mr.  Knight  in  1806; 
the  tree  is  very  vigorous  and  productive  ;  the  fruit  is  pretty  large,  heart- 
shaped  ;  pale  glossy  yellow  in  the  shade,  but  marbled  with  bright  red 
next  the  sun;  flesh  firm,  sweet  and  rich;  ripens  soon  after  the  May 
Duke. 

FLORENCE.  A  very  fine  heart-shaped  cherry;  of  a  yellow  amber 
colour,  marbled  with  bright  red  in  the  shade,  bright  red  next  the  sui>; 
tolerably  firm,  juicy,  rich  and  sweet;  ripe  end  of  June  and  in  July. 

GIRDLEY,  Apple  Cherry.  A  native  fruit  of  medium  size,  which  ori- 
ginated on  the  farm  of  Mr.  Girdley,  of  Roxbury,  near  Boston  ;  the 
colour  is  black,  the  flesh  firm,  of  a  fine  flavour;  in  July;  the  tree  grows 
vigorous,  and  is  very  productive. 

GASCOIGN'S  BLEEDING  HEART.  A  large  sized  heart-shaped  cherry, 
having  the  appearance  of  a  small  drop  or  tear  at  the  end  ;  skin  of  a 
dark  red  colour;  flesh  firm,  but  mellow;  juice  plentiful  and  of  excellent 
flavour ;  early  in  July. 

HARRISON'S  HEART,  Red  Ox  Heart.  A  large  heart-shaped  cherry ; 
yellowish  or  imber  colour,  but  light  red  next  the  sun;  flesh  tender  and 
high  flavoured  ;  in  June  and  July. 

KNIGHT'S  EARLY  BLACK.  The  blossoms  of  this  variety  appear  very 
early  ;  its  fruit  resembles  the  Waterloo;  of  a  rich  dark  hue;  its  flesh  is 
firm  juicy,  and  abundantly  sweet;  by  the  middle  of  June. 

MAXZARD.  This  cherry  grows  wild,  and  is  cultivated  also  in  abun. 
dance  in  various  parts  of  England.  It  is  the  principal  fruit  employed 
lor  the  making  of  Cherry  Brandy,  and  the  stocks  of  the  species  are  best 
adapted  for  nursery-men  to  bud  and  graft  the  better  kinds  on. 

NAPOLEON  BIGARREAU,  Blgarrean  \apolcon,  Laucrmaim ,  G/os  Bigar- 
r.eau  de  Lauermann  The  tree  of  thi^  variety  is  remarkable  for  the 
vigour  and  beauty  of  its  growth  ;  it  produces  a  fine  large  white  fruit 
with  red  spots;  the  flesh  is  remarkably  white,  solid,  and  of  a  sweet 
agreeable  flavour  ;  early  in  July. 

REMIXGTOV  WHITE  HBVRT.  A  moderate  sized  cherry,  of  pleasant 
flavour;  chiefly  valuable  for  its  very  late  maturity,  being  towards  the 
end  of  August.  It  is  said  to  have  originated  in  Rhode  Island. 

WHITE  TARTARIAN,  White  Transparent  Crimea,  Eraser's  White  A 
beautiful  cherry,  pale  yellow,  approaching  to  an  amber  next  the  sun,; 
u  much  admired  fruit,  of  excellent  flavour;  a  good  bearer,  ripening 
early  in  July. 


281 
CHESTNUT. 

CHATAIONER.      Castanea. 

THE  Chestnut  is  well  known  as  a  large  tree,  spreading 
its  branches  finely  where  it  has  room,  but  planted  closely, 
will  shoot  up  straight  to  a  great  height.  It  is  supposed  to 
have  been  originally  from  Sardis.  It  is  so  common  as  to 
be  considered  a  native  of  France  and  Italy,  and  some 
consider  it  as  naturalized  in  England;  it  is  also  indigenous 
in  America.  The  London  catalogue  contains  the  names 
of  thirty-two  sorts  under  cultivation.  The  Chestnut  is  like 
the  Walnut,  both  a  timber  and  fruit  tree  ;  some  of  the  oldest 
trees  in  the  world  are  of  this  species.*  The  American 
Chestnut  differs  so  little  from  the  European,  that  no  specific 
distinction  can  be  drawn.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  trees  of 
the  forest,  the  wood  being  extremely  durable,  and  in  high 
esteem  for  posts  and  rails  to  construct  fences  ;  and  the  nuts 
are  very  delicious.  The  Castanea  pumita,  or  Chinquapin 
nut,  is  a  small  tree,  or  rather  shrub,  growing  to  the  height 
of  thirty  feet  in  the  Southern  States,  but  seldom  exceeding 
ten  in  cold  latitudes ;  the  fruit  is  very  sweet  and  agreeable 

to  eat. 

There  is  a  variety  with  striped  leaves,  which  is  very 
ornamental.  The  most  esteemed  of  the  French  kinds  are 
called  Marron.  Some  excellent  fruit-bearing  varieties  are 
cultivated  in  England,  France,  Italy  and  Spain,  as  also  in 
other  parts  of  Europe  ;  th'ese  are  increased  by  grafting  or 
budding  in  the  usual  methods,  but  the  plants  for  coppice 
wood,  or  timber,  are  best  raised  from  nuts.  Some  varieties 
ripen  their  fruit  a  few  days  earlier  than  others,  but  none  of 
these  have  been  fixed  on,  or  perpetuated  by  nurserymen,  so 
as  to  render  them  available  by  purchasers.  The  fruit  is  a 
desirable  nut  for  Autumn  and  Winter,  and  is  eaten  roasted, 


*  At  Fortworth,  in  Gloucestershire,  England,  is  a  large  tree,  fifty-two 
feet  round;  which  in  1150  was  called  the"great  Chestnut  of  Fortworth." 
Marsham  slates  that  this  tree  is  1100  years  old,  and  that  the  timber  is 
almost  incorruptible,  and  more  durable  than  oak.  Its  durability  is 
commensurate  with  the  long  life  of  the  tree. 

24* 


282  CRANBERRY. 

with  salt,  and  sometimes  raw  ;  and  in  some  countries  it  is- 
not  only  boiled  and  roasted,  but  ground  into  meal ;  and 
puddings,  cakes,  and  bread,  are  made  from  it. 


CRANBERRY. 

CANNED  ERGE.     Oxycocus. 

THIS  genus  of  plants  is  well  distinguished  from  the 
Vaccitiium,oi'  Whortleberry,  by  the  narrow  revolute  segments 
of  corolla  ;  and  are  pretty  little  trailing  evergreen  plants, 
to  which  a  peat  soil,  and  rather  moist  situations,  are 
absolutely  necessary.  They  are  very  little  changed  by 
culture. 

The  Oxycocus  macrocarpus  is  a  red  acid  fruit,  highly 
valued  as  a  sweetmeat,  or  for  tarts.  It  is  well  known  that 
this  excellent  fruit  grows  in  many  parts  of  our  country 
spontaneously  ;  and  that  the  mere  gathering  it,  is  all  that 
bountiful  Nature  requires  at  our  hands  ;  but  it  is  well  worth 
cultivating  where  there  are  none.  This  fruit  will  keep  a 
whole  year,  if  properly  preserved  in  close  covered  stone 
jars,  and  is  considered,  by  many,  as  superior,  to  the  best 
currant  jelly,  and  may  be  kept  for  many  months  in  a  raw 
state  without  injury. 

The  Oxycocus  paluitris  bears  edible  berries,  which  are 
gathered  wijd  both  in  England  and  Scotland,  and  made 
into  tarts.  Lightfoot  says,  that  twenty  or  thirty  pounds 
worth  are  sold  each  market  day,  for  five  or  six  weeks 
together  in  the  town  of  Langtown,  on  the  borders  of 
Cumberland. 

Nicol  says,  the  American  species  is  more  easily  cul- 
tivated than  the  English,  but  is  inferior  to  it  in  flavour 
There  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  quality  of  the  fruit  of 
each  of  these  species  is  subject  to  variations,  which 
have  not  yet  been  practically  distinguished.  Their  cul- 
tivation is  now  so  well  understood,  that  they  may  be 
both  considered  with  propriety  as  inmates  of  the  fruit  garden. 


CURRANT.  ,  263 

It  is  customary  in  England  to  prepare  beds  on  the  edges 
of  ponds,  which  are  banked  up  so  as  to  admit  of  the  wet 
getting  underneath  them ;  bog  or  peat  earth  is  considered 
essential  for  the  roots  to  run  in,  but  it  has  been  discovered 
that  they  can  be  cultivated  in  damp  situations  of  a  garden, 
f  with  a  top  dressing  of  peat  or  bog  earth,  and  if  they  are 
once  suited  as  to  the  soil,  the  plants  will  multiply  so  as  to 
cover  the  bed  in  the  course  of  a  year  or  two,  by  means  of 
their  long  runners,  which  take  root  at  different  points. 
From  a  very  small  space  a  very  large  quantity  of  Cranberries 
may  be  gathered ;  and  they  prove  a  remarkably  regular 
crop,  scarcely  affected  by  the  state  of  the  weather,  and  not 
subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects.  Sir  Joseph  Banks  gives 
an  account  in  (Hort.  Trans.  1,  71,)  of  his  success  in  culti- 
vating this  fruit.  *•  In  one  year,  viz.,  1813,  from  326  square 
feet,  or  a  bed  about  eighteen  feet  square,  three  'and  a  half 
Winchester  bushels  of  berries  were  produced,  which,  at  five 
bottles  to  the  gallon,  gives  one  hundred  and  forty  bottles, 
each  sufficient  fur  one  cranjberry  pie,  from  two  and  a  half- 
square  feet." 


CURRANT. 

GROSEILLER  A  GRAPPES.       Ribes. 

THIS  is  a  genus  of  well  known  shrubs,  much  cultivated 
for  their  fruit.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Northern  parts  of 
Europe,  and  found  in  hedges  and  woods  in  England  ;  and 
there  are  some  species  indigenous  in  America.  The  fruit, 
being  of  an  agreeable  sub-acid  taste,  is  generally  relished, 
both  as  a  dessert,  and  in  pies  and  tarts  ;  it  is  also  much 
used  in  making  wine,  and  is  grown  to  a  considerable  extent 
for  that  purpose  in  Essex,  Kent,  and  about  Pershore,  in 
Worcestershire,  England.  There  are  ten  species  cultivated 
in  the  garden  of  the  Horticultural  Society  of  London, 
comprising  twelve  varieties  of  red,  ten  of  white,  five  kinds 
of  black,  together  with  champagne,  mountain,  rock,  upright; 
Peaasylvanian,  &e.  Any  number  of  varieties  of  the  red  and 


SS4  CURRANT. 

white  may  be  procured  from  sowing  the  seeds,  but  they  are 
generally  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  last  year's  wood, 
which  should  be  of  sufficient  length  to  form  handsome 
plants,  with  a  clear  stem,  ten  inches  high  ;  these  may  be 
planted  immediately  upon  losing  their  leaves  in  Autumn, 
or  very  early  the  ensuing  Spring. 

The  Currant  will  grow  in  almost  every  soil,  but  prospers 
best  in  one  loamy  and  rich.  The  best  flavoured  fruit  is 
produced  from  plants  in  an  open  situation,  but  they  will 
grow  under  the  shades  of  walls  or  trees,  and  either  as  low 
bushes,  or  trained  as  espaliers.  They  bear  chiefly  on  spurs, 
and  'on  young  wood,  of  from  one  to  three  years'  growth,  and 
therefore,  in  pruning,  most  of  the  young  wood  should  be  cut 
to  within  two  or  three  buds  of  that  where  it  originated. 
After  the  plants  are  furnished  with  full  heads,  they  produce 
many  superfluous  and  irregular  shoots  every  Summer, 
crowding  the  general  bearers,  so  as  to  require  regulating, 
and  curtailing,  both  in  the  young  growth  of  the  year,  and  in 
older  wood. 

The  principal  part  of  the  work  may  be  done  in  Winter, 
or  early  in  the  Spring;  but  a  preparatory  part  should  be 
performed  in  Summer,  to  eradicate  suckers,  and  thin  the 
superfluous  shoots  of  the  year,  where  they  are  so  crowded  as 

to    exclude  the  sun  and  air  from  the  fruit.      In  training 

o 

espaliers  and  for  standards,  two  branches  are  laid  in  n 
horizontal  direction  along  the  bottom  of  the  trellis,  perhaps 
half  a  foot  from  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  the  growth 
from  these  of  all  upright  shoots,  which  will  admit  of  being 
arranged  at  the  distance  of  five  or  six  inches  of  each  olher, 
is  encouraged.  Fan  standards  are  sometimes  trained  with 
the  branches  radiating  from  the  crown  of  the  stem. 

The  black  Currant,  or  Ribes  nigrum,  is  common  in  moist 
woods  in  Russia  and  Siberia  ;  its  culture  is  similar  to  that 
of  the  redj  but  as  it  is  less  apt  to  bear  on  spurs  than  on 
young  wood,  the  shoots  should  not  be  so  much  shortened 
in  this  as  in  the  other, 

Currant  bushes  will  require  to  be  planted  at  different 
distances,  according  to  the  situation  and  mode  of  training, 
&e.  When  planted  in  beds,  borders,  or  squares,  they 


FIG, 


should  be  six  feet  apart,  but  if  trained  as  espaliers,  they 
will  require  to  be  eight  feet  apart. 

Many  people  dislike  the  flavour  of  black  Currants,  they 
are,  therefore,  not  much  used  in  the  kitchen  or  dessert,  and 
seldom  in  wine  making.  They  make  a  jelly  or  jam,  in 
estimation  as  a  gargle  for  inflammatory  sore  throats.  "In 
Russia  and  Siberia,  wine  is  made  of  the  berries  alone,  or 
fermented  with  honey,  and  with  or  without  spirits.  In 
Siberia  they  make  a  drink  of  the  leaves  ;  these  tincture 
common  spirits  so  as  to  resemble  brandy,  and  a  few  of  them 
dried  and  mixed  with  black  tea,  answer  all  the  purposes  of 
the  green  material."  —  (London.} 

All  kinds  of  Currants  may  be  forced  by  placing  them  in 
any  forcing  department  in  January  or  February  ;  they  will 
produce  ripe  fruit  in  April  and  May. 


FIG. 

FIGUIER.     Ficus  carica. 

THERE  are  many  species  of  the  Fig,  which  are  all  natives 
of  warm  climates.  In  some  parts  of  Asia,  and  in  the  South 
of  Europe,  they  are  always  grown  as  standards;  and  the 
fruit,  green  and  dried,  forms  an  important  part  of  the  food 
of  the  inhabitants.  The  London  Horticultural  catalogue 
contains  the  names  of  seventy-five  sorts  ;  and  Messrs.  Prince, 
of  Flushing,  have  upwards  of  forty  in  their  collection,  some 
of  which  are  select  sorts  from  France  and  Italy.  It  is 
cultivatedin  England  as  a  fruit  tree,  and,  in  warm  situations, 
will  ripen  its  fruit  in  the  open  air.  In  Sussex,  on  the 
sea-coast,  it  lipens  its  fruit  on  standards.  Some  of  the  best 
in  England,  are  .at  Arundel  Castle  ;  and  there  is  a  Fig 
orchard  of  one  hundred  trees  at  Tarring,  near  Worthing. 
Those  at  Arundel  are  planted  six  or  eight  feet  apart,  and 
from  a  single  stem  allowed  to  continue  branching  conical 
heads,  pruning  chiefly  irregular  and  redundant  growths,  and 
cutting  out  decayed  or  injured  wood. 


286 


FIG, 


The  Fig  tree  may  be  propagated  from  seed,  cuttings, 
layers,  suckers,  roots,  and  by  grafting  ;  the  most  generally 
approved  method  is  by  layers  or  cuttings,  which  come  into 
bearing  the  second,  and  sometimes  the  first  year.  No  tree 
is  more  robust  or  more  prolific  ;  even  plants  in  pots  or  tubs 
kept  in  a  temperature  adapted  for  the  Orange  tree,  will  fruit 
freely,  and  ripen  two  crops  a  year,  and  by  being  taken  care 
of  through  the  Winter,  will  go  on  growing  and  ripening  fruit 
wliitliout  intermission.  Mr.  Knight  has  obtained  from  his 
hot-house  in  England,  eight  successive  crops  in  a  year,  by 
bending  the  limbs  in  a  position  below  the  horizontal.  The 
trees  will  produce  tolerable  crops  in  the  second  year  if  rung 
or  decorticated  ;  and  by  this  process  maturity  of  the  fruit 
is  accelerated,  and  its  size  increased.  Its  maturity  is  also 
hastened  by  pricking  the  fruit  with  a  straw  or  quill  dipped  in 
olive  oil,  or  even  by  slightly  touching  the  fruit  with  oil,  at 
the  finger's  end.  In  Fig  countries  the  fruit  is  preserved  by 
dipping  it  in  scalding  lye,  made  of  the  ashes  of  the  fig  tree 
and  then  dried  in  the  Sun. 

When  Figs  are  cultivated  in  a  garden,  a  good  loamy  soil 
should  be  provided  ;  and  they  may  be  trained  to  close  fences, 
or  trellises,  in  sheltered  situations.  At  the  approach  of 
Winter  they  must  be  protected  ;  those  trained  to  close  fences 
may  be  secured  through  the  Winter,  by  a  covering  of 
matting ;  and  such  as  may  be  in  open  situations  should  be 
liberated  from  the  trellis,  and  laid  down  close  to  the  ground, 
and  covered  three  or  four  inches  with  earth  ;  or  trenches  may 
be  formed  of  that  depth,  sufficient  to  contain  the  branches, 
which  should  be  fastened  down  wiih  hooked  pegs,  without 
cramping  them  :  such  of  the  strong  central  branches  as  will 
not  bend,  may  be  enveloped  in  litter.  They  should  be 
pruned  before  they  are  laid  down  in  November,  and  on 
being  raised  again  in  April,  they  may  be  trained  as  before. 
Figs  may  be  cultivated  in  private  gardens  as  easily  as, 
the  vine. 


as? 

FILBERT    AND    HAZLENUT. 

NOISETIER  AVELINIER.     Corylus. 

THE  Filbert,  in  many  varieties,  and  also  the  common 
Hazlenut,  grow  spontaneously  in  the  woods  of  Britain,  and 
some  few  varieties  are  indigenous  in  this  country.,  The 
kinds  of  Filberts  generally  cultivated,  are  the  white,  red,  cob, 
clustered,  and  frizzled  ;  of  each  of  which  there  are  many 
varieties.  As  this  shrub  is  so  easily  cultivated,  it  is  a  matter 
of  astonishment  that  the  nuts  from  this  genus  of  plants  are 
so  scarce  in  our  markets.  In  different  parts  of  England 
there  are  Filbert  orchards.  In  the  Filbert  grounds  about 
Maid  stone,  in  Kent,  it  is  a  prevailing  practice  to  cultivate 
Hops,  standard  Apples,  and  Cherries,  among  the  Filberts ; 
when  these  come  into  a  bearing  state,  the  Hops  are  taken 
up  and  transplanted  elsewhere,  and  the  fruit  trees  only 
suffered  to  remain.  The  spare  ground  is  then  planted  with 
Gooseberries,  Currants,  &c.  The  red  Filbert  is  allowed  to 
have  a  finer  flavour  than  the  white.  The  Cob-nut  is  large, 
with  a  thick  shell,  but  the  kernel  is  sweet  and  of  considerable 
size.  The  Barcelona  is  a  good  large  nut,  with  a  thin  shell. 
The  Crossford  is  very  sweet,  kernels  well,  and  the  tree  is 
a  great  bearer. 

All  the  different  kinds  may  be  grown  as  dwarf  standards  ; 
or  they  will  bear  very  well  if  planted  in  clumps  ;  but  as 
they  produce  an  abundance  of  suckers,  these  should  be 
parted  off  frequently,  and  planted  in  a  nursery  bed  for 
stocks  ;  as  the  bearing  plants  will  cease  to  produce  fruit  in 
any  quantity,  if  the  suckers  are  allowed  to  form  a  thick 
bush.  They  may  be  propagated  by  seed,  by  suckers, 
by  layers,  or  by  grafting  in  the  Soring  upon  seedling  or 
sucker  stocks. 

The  Filbert  bears  principally  upon  the  sides  of  the  upper 
young  branches,  and  from  small  shoots  which  proceed  from 
the  bases  of  side  branches  cut  off  the  preceding  year.  The 
leading  shoot  is  every  year  to  be  shortened,  and  every 
shoot  that  is  left  to  produce  fruit  should  be  clipped :  which 
prevents  the  tree  from  being  exhausted  in  making  wood  at 


288  GOOSEBERRY. 

the  end  of  the  branch  — Such  branches  as  may  have  oorne 
fruit,  must  be  cut  out  every  year,  in  order  to  promote  the 
growth  of  a  supply  of  young  fruit-bearing  branches. 


GOOS^BE-RRY. 

CTROSEILLKH.     Ribes  grossularla,  uva,  crispa,  etc. 

THE  Gooseberry  is  a  native  of  several  parts  of  Europe, 
and  is  indigenous  in  America,  as  far  North  as  68°.  It  is 
cultivated  to  greater  perfection  in  England  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  world.  In  Spain  and  Italy,  this  fruit 
is  scarcely  known.  In  France  it  is  neglected.  In  Lan- 
casbire,  England,  and  some  parts  of  the  adjoining  counties, 
almost  every  cottager  cultivates  the  Gooseberry,  with  a  view 
to  prizes  given  at  what  are  called  Gooseberry  Prize  Meet- 
ings;  of  these,  there  is  annually  published  an  account 
with  the  names  and  weight  of  the  successful  sorts,  in  what 
is  called  the  Manchester  Gooseberry  Book.  The  prizes 
vary  from  ten  shillings  to  five  and  ten  pounds  sterling. 
There  are  meetings  held  in  the  Spring  to  "make  up,"  as  the 
term  is,  the  sorts,  the  persons,  and  the  conditions  of  exhi- 
bition ;  and  in  August,  to  weigh  and  test  the  fruit,  and 
determine  the  prizes. 

hi  Lindley's  Guide  to  the  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden, 
722  varieties  are  described  ;  from  which  the  fallowing  are 
selected,  as  in  most  repute  for  size,  flavour,  and  other  good 
qualities  : 

REDS. 

BRITISH  CROWN.  This  variety  is  noted  as  being  a  fine  flavoured 
fruit,  especially  for  tarts.  33  prizes  had  been  awarded  for  it  in  1829  > 
the  largest  berry  weighing  18  pennyweights  and  10  grains. 

CHAMPAGNE.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  held  in  great  esteem  for  its 
delicious  flavour ;  the  berry  is  of  medium  size,  somewhat  oblong  and 
hairy. 

CAPPER'S  TOP  SAWYEH.  This  is  a  late  fruit,  of  oblong  shape,  and 
hairy  near  the  base.  171  prizes  were  obtained  for  this  in  1828  and  9  i 
the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  17  grains. 


GOOSEBERRIES.  289 

CROWN  BOB,  MELLI.VG'S.  This  variety  won  85  prizes  in  two  seasons ; 
the  largest  berry  weighing  21  dwts.  12  grains.  It  is  a  late  fruit,  of 
oblong  shape,  bright  red  colour,  and  hairy. 

HUNTSMAN.  This  variety,  which  originated  with  Mr.  Bratherton, 
took  216  prizes  in  1828  and  9 ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  24  dwts. 

LANCASHIRE  LAD,  HARTSHORN'S  156  prizes  were  awarded  for  this 
variety  in  two  years ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  11  grains. 

MARQUIS  OF  STAFFORD,  KNIGHT'S.  This  much  esteemed  late  variety, 
is  hairy,  of  medium  size,  bright  red  colour,  and  delicious  flavour. 

PRINCE  RKGENT,  BOARDMAN'S.  This  variety  won  141  prizes  in  two 
seas  ons ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  11  grains. 

ROARIVG  Lios,  FARMER'S.  In  1828,  349  prizes  were  awarded  for 
this  variety;  and  in  1829  it  won  453  prizes  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing 
29  dwts. ;  since  which  time,  berries  have  beea  known  to  weigh  over 
one  ounce  and  a  half  each, 

SIR  JOHN  COTGRAVE,  BRATHERTON'S.  This  variety  took  343  prizes 
in  two  seasons ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  25  dwts.  2  gra;ns. 

YELLOWS. 

BUNKER'S  HILL,  CAPPER'S.  2iO  prizes  were  awarded  for  this  variety 
in  two  years  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  20  dwts.  2  grains. 

BRITANNIA.  This  variety  is  noted  for  its  earliness  and  delicious 
flavour.  The  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  weighing  about  18  dwts. 

COTTAGE  GIHL,  HF.APS'S.  This  variety  won  133  prizes  in  two  sea- 
sons; the  largest  berry  weighing  19  dwts.  14  grains. 

GUNNER,  H^RDCASTLE'S.  192  prizes  were  given  for  this  variety  in 
1828 ;  and  in  1829, 181  prizes  were  awarded ;  the  heaviest  berry  weigh- 
ing 24  dwts.  5  grains  ;  fruit  rather  late. 

ROCKWOOD,  PROPHET'S.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  very  early  ;  it  is 
of  a  roundish  oblong  shape,  and  slightly  hairy.  It  won  303  prizes  in 
two  years  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  21  dwts.  3  grains 

SOVEREIGN,  BRATHERTON'S,  202  prizes  wereobtained  for  this  variety 
in  two  seasons  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  17  grains. 

VIPER,  GORDON'S.  This  is  an  early  smooth  fruit,  and  won 87  prizes 
in  two  years  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  5  grains. 

GREENS. 

ANGLER,  COLLIERS.  385  prizes  were  awarded  for  this  varietyintwo 
seasons  j  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  20  dwts.  1  grain. 

EARLY  GREEN,  HAIRY.  This  variety  is  described  in  the  Pomological 
Magazine  as  a  very  early  fruit ;  it  is  round,  hairy,  of  deep  green  colour 
and  excellent  flavour,  but  not  large. 

FAVOURITE,  BATES'S.  235  prizes  were  given  for  this  variety  in  two 
years ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  20  grains. 

25 


GOOSEBEKKIES. 

GIEKNWOOD,  BERRY'S.  This  variety  obtained  204  prizes  in  two  sea- 
sons ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  17  dwts.  4  grains.  It  is  a  deliciously 
flavoured  fruit 

INDEPENDENT,  BIGG'S.  121  prizes  were  given  for  this  variety  in  two 
years ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  16  dwts.  4  grains.  It  is  an  early 
rich  fruit. 

OCEAN,  WAIWMAN'S.  Thi»  variety  won  278  prizes  in  two  seasons  j 
the  heaviest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  8  grains.  The  fruit  is  oblong  and 
smooth. 

TROUBLER,  MOORE'S.  160  prizes  were  taken  for  this  variety  in  two 
years  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  17  dwts.  13  grains. 

WHITES. 

BONNY  LASS,  CAPPER'S.  This  variety  won  167  prizes  in  two  seasons ; 
the  heaviest  berry  weighing  21  dwts,  10  grains. 

CHESHIRE  LASS,  SAUNDERS'S.  This  is  one  of  the  earliest  varieties,  and 
makes  excellent  tarts.  The  fruit  is  large,  oblong,  downy,  and  f]ne 
flavoured. 

GOVERNESS,  BRATHERTOIS'S.  124  prizes  were  awarded  for  this  variety 
in  two  years ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  24  dwts. 

LADY  DELAMERE,  WYLDS'S.  This  variety  took  253  prizes  in  two 
seasons  ;  the  heaviest  berry  weighing  22  dwts.  6  grains. 

NAILER,  BLOMILEY'S.  134  prizes  were  given  for  this  variety  in  two 
«easons  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  12  grains. 

QUEEN  CAROLINE.  This  variety  won  142  prizes  in  two  years;  the 
heaviest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  1  grain.  It  is  a  richly  flavoured  fruit. 

WELLINGTON'S  GLORY.  173  prizes  were  obtained  in  two  seasons  for 
this  variety  ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  20  dwts.  4  grains. 

WHITE  EAGLE,  This  variety  gained  476  prizes  in  twe  seasons  ;  the 
heaviest  berry  weighing  23  dwts.  12  grains. 

WHITE  LION,  CHELWORTH'S.  102  prizes  were  given  for  this  variety 
in  two  years ;  the  largest  berry  weighing  18  dwts.  22  grains.  The 
fruit  is  late,  slightly  hairy,  and  excellent  for  tarts. 

WHITESMITH,  WOODWARD'S.  This  is  a  small  early  berry,  weighing 
aboutl4  dwts.  The  skin  is  downy,  and  the  fruit  is  fully  equal  to  any 
gooseberry  of  its  colour. 


The  Gooseberry  may  be  propagated  by  all  the  modes 
applicable  to  trees  or  shrubs,  but  that  by  cuttings  is  usually 
adopted  for  continuing  varieties,  and  that  by  seed  for  pro- 
curing them.  The  cuttings  should  be  taken  from  promising 
shoots  just  before  the  leaves  begin  to  fall  in  the  Autumn  ; 
the  greatest  part  of  the  buds  should  be  taken  off,  leaving 


GOOSEBERRY. 

only  two  or  three  buds  on  the  top.  Cut  them  at  such  a 
length  as  the  strength  and  ripeness  of  the  wood  will  bear ; 
and  plant  them  in  good  pulverized  soil.  On  the  approach 
of  Winter,  lay  some  moss  or  litter  around  them  ;  and,  by 
being  well  cultivated,  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  when 
they  are  a  year  old. 

When  bushes  are  procured  from  the  public  nurseries,  let 
the  -general  supply  be  in  such  kinds  as  will  ripen  in 
succession.  They  may  be  planted  in  the  kitchen  garden, 
in  single  rows,  along  the  side  of  the  walks  or  paths,  or  in 
compartments  by  themselves,  in  rows  from  six  to  eight  feet 
apart  from  row  to  row,  and  five  or  six  feet  apart  in  the  rows ; 
or  in  small  gardens,  they  may  be  trained  to  a  single  tall 
stem,  and  tied  to  a  stake  :  this  though  six  or  eight  feet  high, 
occasions  scarcely  any  shade,  and  it  does  not  occupy  much 
room,  nor  exclude  air,  while,  at  the  same  time,  the  stem 
becomes  closely  hung  with  berries,  and  makes  a  pleasant 
appearance  in  that  state.  Persons  of  taste  may  train  them 
on  arched  trellises,  which,  if  judiciously  managed,  the  ground 
around  them  may  be  more  easily  cultivated  ;  the  fruit  may 
be  kept  from  being  splashed  with  rain,  and  may  be  easily 
gathered  when  wanted,  or  preserved  by  shading  with  mats, 
&c.  Those  who  may  have  a  choice  of  soil  and  site,  should 
fix  on  a  good,  rich  loamy  earth,  and  plant  some  of  the  choice 
kinds  in  a  Northern  and  Eastern  aspect,  near  the  fence,  to 
come  late  in  succession. 

The  Gooseberry  produces  its  fruit  not  only  on  the  shoots 
of  the  preceding  year,  and  on  shoots  two  or  three  years  old, 
but  also  on  spurs  or  snags  arising  from  the  older  branches 
along  the  sides ;  but  the  former  afford  the  largest  fruit- 
The  shoots  retained  for  bearers  should  therefore  be  left  at 
full  length,  or  nearly  so  ;  the  first  pruning  should  be  done 
before  the  buds  swell,  so  as  not  to  endanger  their  being 
rubbed  off  in  the  operation.  Cut  out  all  the  superfluous  cross 
shoots,  and  prune  long  ramblers  and  low  stragglers  to  some 
well  placed  lateral  of  eye :  retain  a  sufficiency  of  the  young 
well  situated  lateral  and  terminals^  to  form  successional 
bearers.  In  cutting  out  superfluous  and  decayed  wood,  be 
careful  to  retain  a  leading  shoot  at  the  end  of  a  principal 


292  GOOSEBERRY. 

branch.  The  superfluous  young  laterals  on  the  good  main 
branches,  instead  of  being  taken  off  clean,  may  be  cut  into 
little  stubs  of  one  or  two  eyes,  which  will  send  out  fruit 
buds  and  spurs. 

Some  persons  not  pruning  the  Gooseberry  bush  on  righS 
principles,  cause  it  to  shoot  crowdedly  full  of  young  wood 
in  Summer,  from  which  the  fruit  is  always  small,  and  does 
not  ripen  freely  with  full  flavour  ;  on  which  account  it  js  an 
important  point  in  pruning,  to  keep  the  middle  of  the  head 
open  and  clear,  and  to  let  the  occasional  shortening  of  the 
shoots  be  sparing  and  moderate.  Between  the  bearing 
branches  keep  a  regulated  distance  of.  at  least  six  inches  at 
the  extremities,  which  will  render  them  fertile  bearers  of 
good  fruit. 

The  prize  cultivators  of  this  fruit  in  Lancashire,  arc 
particular  in  preparing  a  very  rich  soil,  and  they  water 
occasionally  with  liquor  which  drains  from  dunghills  ;  and 
there  are  some,  who,  not  content  with  watering  at  the  root 
and  over  the  top,  place  a  small  saucer  of  water  under  each 
Gooseberry,  only  six  or  eight  of  which  are  left  on  a  bush  ; 
this  is  technically  called  suckling*— There  are  others  that 
ring  some  of  the  branches  ;  this  is  done  by  cutting  out  small 
circles  of  bark  round  them,  and  by  pinching  off  a  great 
part  of  the  young  wood,  the  strength  is  thrown  to  the  fruit. 

Unripe  Gooseberries  may  be  preserved  in  bottles  against 
Winter :  some  after  filling  the  bottles  in  a  dry  state,  stand 
them  in  a  slow  oven,  or  in  hot  water,  so  as  to  heat  them 
gradually  through  without  cracking  them  ;  they  will  keep 
a  whole  year,  if  closely  corked,  and  sealed  as  soon  as  cold. 

The  Gooseberry  may  be  forced  in  pots  or  boxes,  plaqed 
in  pits,  or  in  the  peach  house  or  vinery.  "Hay,  plants  in 
pots  in  November,  removes  to  the  peach-house  in  January ,. 
and  has  ripe  fruit  in  the  end  of  April,  which  he  sends  to 
table  growing  on  the  plants." — (Hort^  Trans.  4.  415.). 


29S 
GRAPE. 

VIGNE.     Vitist  vinifera,  vulpina. 

THE  Grape  Vine  is  described  by  Loudon,  as  a  trailing 
deciduous  hardy  shrub,  with  a  twisted  irregular  stem,  and 
long  flexible  branches,  decumbent,  like  those  of  the  bramble, 
or  supporting  themselves  when  near  other  trees,  by  means 
of  tendrils,  like  the  pea.  The  leaves  are  large,  lobed, 
entire,  or  serrated  and  downy,  or  smooth,  green  in  Summer, 
but  when  mature,  those  of  varieties  in  which  the  predomi- 
nating colour  is  red,  constantly  change  to,  or  are  tinged 
with  some  shade  of  that  colour ;  and  those  of  white,  green, 
or  yellow  grapes,  as  constantly  change  to  a  yellow,  and  are 
never  in  the  least  tinged  either  with  purple,  red,  or  scarlet. 
The  breadth  of  the  leaves  varies  from  five  to  seven  or 
ten  inches,  and  the  length  of  the  foot  stalks  from  four 
to  eight  inches.  The  flowers  are  produced  on  the  shoots  of 
the  same  year,  which  shoots  generally  proceed  from  those 
of  the  year  preceding  :  they  are  in  the  form  of  a  raceme,  of 
a  greenish  white  colour,  and  fragrant  odour,  appearing  in 
the  open  air  in  June  ;  and  the  fruit,  which  is  of  the  berry 
kind, attains  such  maturity  as  the  season  and  situation  admit, 
by  the  middle  or  end  of  September.  The  berry,  or  grape, 
is  generally  globular,  but  often  ovate,  oval,  oblong,  or  fin. 
ger-shaped  ;  the  colours  green,  red,  yellow,  amber,  and 
black,  or  a  variegation  of  two  or  more  of  these  colours. 
The  skin  is  smooth,  the  pulp  and  juice  of  a  dulcet,  poignant, 
elevated,  generous  flavour.  Every  berry  ought  to  enclose 
five  small  heart,  or  pear-shaped  stones ;  though,  as  some 
generally  fail,  they  have  seldom  more  than  three,  and  some 
varieties,  as  they  attain  a  certain  age,  as  the  Ascalon,  or 
sultana  raisin,  none.  The  weight  of  a  berry  depends  not 
only  on  its  size,  but  on  the  thickness  of  its  skin  and  texture 
of  the  flesh,  the  lightest  being  the  thin-skinned  and  juicy 
sorts,  as  the  sweet  water  or  muscadine ;  and  what  are 
considered  as  large-berried  of  these  varieties,  will  weigh 
from  five  to  seven  penny-weights,  and  measure  from  one  to 
two-thirds  of  an  inch  in  girth.  A  good  sized  bunch  of  the. 

25* 


same  sorts  may  weigh  from  two  to  six  pounds  ;  but  bunches 
have  been  grown  of  the  Syrian  grape,  in  Syria,  weighing 
forty  pounds,  and  in  England  weighing  from  ten  to  nineteen 
pounds.  A  single  Vine  in  a  large  pot,  or  grown  as  a  dwarf 
standard,  in  the  manner  practised  in  the  vineyards  in  the 
North  of  Franee,  ordinarily  produces  from  three  to  nine 
bunches  :  but  by  superior  management  in  gardens  in 
England,  the  number  of  bunches  is  prodigiously  increased, 
and  one  plant,  that  of  the  red  Hamburgh  sort,  in  the  vinery 
of  the  royal  gardens  at  Hampton  Court,,  has  produced 
two  thousand  two  hundred  bunches,  averaging  one  pound 
each,  or  in  all  nearly  a  ton.  That  at  Valentine,  in  Essex, 
has  produced  two  thousand  bunches  of  nearly  the  same 
average  weight. 

.  The  age  to  which  the  Vine  will  attain  in  warm  climates 
is  so  great  as  not  to  be  known.  It  is  supposed:to  be  equal 
or  even-  to  surpass  that  of  the  Oak.  Pliny  speaks  of  a  Vine 
which  ha'd  existed  six  hundred  years  ;  and  Bose  says,  there 
are  Vines  in  Burgundy  upwards  of  four  hundred,  years 
of  age. 

In.  Italy  there  are  vineyards  which  have  been  in  a 
flourishing  state  for  upwards  of  three  centuries,  and  Miller 
tells  us  that  a-  vineyard  a  hundred  years  old  is  reckoned 
young.  The  extent  of  the  branches  of  the  Vine,  in  certain 
situations  and  circumstances,  is  commensurate  with  its 
produce  and  age.  In  the  hedges  of.  Italy,  and  woods  of 
America,  they  are  found  overtopping  the  highest  EJm  and 
Poplar  trees  ;  and  in  England  one  plant  trained  against  a 
row  of  houses  in  Northallerton  (lately  dead)  covered  a  space 
in  1585,  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  seven  square  yards  ;  it 
was  then  above  one  hundred  years  old.  That  at  Hampton 
Court,  nearly  of  the  same  age,  occupies  above  one  hundred 
and  sixteen  square  yards.;  and  that  at  Valentine,  in 
Essex,  above  one  hundred  and  forty-seven  square  yards. 
The  size  to  which  the  trunk,  or  stem,  sometimes  attains  in 
warm  climates,  is  so  great,  as  to  have  afforded  planks 
fifteen  inches  broad,  furniture,  and  statues ;  and  the 
Northallerton  Vine,  above  mentioned  in  1785,  measured 
four  feet  in  circumference  near  the  ground,  and  one  branch 


GKA.PE.  ,  296 

of.  the  Hampton  Court  Vine  measures  one  hundred  and 
fourteen  feet  in  length.  Vine  timber  ia  of  great  dura- 
bility. 

The  varieties  of  the  Grape  in  countries  where  it  is  grown 
for  the  wine  press,  are  as  numerous  as  the  vineyards  ;  for  as 
these  tor  the  most  part  differ  in  soil,  aspect,  elevation,  or 
otherwise,,  and  as  the  Vine  is  greatly  the  child  of  local 
circumstances,  its  habits  soon  become  adapted  to  those  in 
which  it  is  placed.  When  it  is  considered, that  a  vineyard 
once  planted  will  last  two  or  three  centuries,  it  will  readily 
be  conceived  that  the  nature  of  a  variety  may  be  to- 
tally changed  during  only  a  part  of  that  time.  The 
varieties  mostly  in  esteem  for  wine  making,  are  small 
berries,  and  bunches  with  an  austere  taste..  The  Bur. 
gundy,  as  modified  by  different  soils  and  situations, 
may  be  considered  the  most  general,  vineyard  Grape  of 
France,  from  Champagne  or  Marne>  to  Marseilles  or 
Bordeaux. 

The  best  wine  in  Italy  and  Spain  is  also  made  from 
Grapes  of  this  description;  but  in  both  countries  many  of  the 
larger  berried  sorts  are  grown  on  account  of  their  pro- 
ducing more  liquor.  The  sweet  wines,  as  the  Malmsey,. 
Maderia,  Constantia,  Tokay,  &c.  are  made  from  sweet- 
berried  grapes  allowed  to  remain  on  the  plants  till  over 
ripe.  That  wine  is  the  strongest,  and  has  most  flavour, 
in  which  both  the  skins  and  stones  are  bruised  and 
fermented.  The  same  thing  is  the  case  in  making  cider  ; 
but  in  both,  processes  bruising  the  stones  or  kernels  is 
often  neglected.  The  vine  was  formerly  extensively  cul- 
tivated in  Britain  for  the  wine  press,  but  its  culture  is  now 
confined  to  the  garden  as  a  dessert  fruit ;  and  they  have  in, 
that  country  not  only  the  best  varieties,  but  they  grow  the 
fruit  to  a  larger  size,  and  of  a  higher  flavour,  thau  is 
done  any  where  else  in  the  world  :  this  is  owing  to  the 
perfection  of  their  artificial  climates,  and  the  great  atten- 
tion paid  to  soil  and  sub-soil,  and  other  points  of  culture, 
The  fruit  is  produced  in  some  vineries  during  every, 
month  in  the  year ;  and  in  the  London  markets  (generally). 


GRAPE. 

it   is  to   be   had  in  the  highest  degree  of  perfection  from 
March  to  January. 

The  Vine  will  thrive  in  any  soil  that  has  a  dry  bottom  ; 
and  in  such  as  are  rich  and  deep  it  will  grow  luxuriantly, 
and  produce  abundance  of  large  fruit;  in  shallow,  dry, 
chalky,  or  gravelly  soils,  it  will  produce  less  fruit,  but  of 
better  flavour.  Speechly  recommends  dung  reduced  to  a 
black  mould,  the  dust  and  dirt  of  roads,  the  offal  of  animals, 
or  butcher's  manure,  horn  shavings,  old  rags,  shavings  of 
leather,  bone  dust,  dung  of  deer  and  sheep,  human  excrement 
when  duly  meliorated  by  time,  a  Winter's  frost,  and  re- 
peatedly turning  over.  Abercrombie  says,  that  dung  out  of 
a  cow-house,  perfectly  rotted,  is  a  fine  manure  for  the  Vine  ; 
he  recommends  drainings  from  dunghills  to  be  used  over  the 
ground  once  in  ten  or  fourteen  days  from  the  time  the  bud& 
rise,  till  the  fruit  is  set,  and  that  fresh  horse  dung  be  spread 
over  the  ground  in  Autumn  as  a  manure,  and  also  to  protect 
the  roots  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather  ;  some, 
however,  disapprove  of  manuring  high,  as  being  calculated 
to  produce  wood  rather  than  fruit. 

The  general  mode  of  propagating  the  Vine  is  by  cuttings, 
either  a  foot  or  more  long,  with  a  portion  of  two  year  old 
wood,  or  short,  with  only  one  bud,  or  one  bud  and  a  half 
joint,  &c.  Vines  are  to  be  had  at  the  nurseries,  propagated 
either  from  layers,  cuttings,  or  eyes  ;  but  plants  raised  from 
cuttings  are  generally  preferred  ;  many  are  of  opinion  that 
it  is  a  matter  of  indifference  from  which  class  the  choice  is 
made,  provided  the  plants  are  well  rooted,  and  in  good 
health,  and  the  wood  ripe.  A  mode  of  very  general  utility 
is  to  select  the  plants  in  the  nursery  a  year  before  wanted, 
and  to  order  them  to  be  potted  in  very  large  pots.  Varieties 
without  end  are  raised  from  seed,  and  it  is  thought  that  by 
propagating  from  the  seeds  of  successive  generations,  some 
sorts  may  ultimately  be  procured,  better  adapted  for  ripen- 
ing their  fruit  in  the  open  air  than  now  known.  A  seedling 
Vine,  carefully  treated,  will  show  blossoms  in  its  fourth  or 
fifth  year ;  say  that  it  produces  a  fair  specimen  of  its  fruit 
n  the  sixth  year,  then  a  new  generation  may  be  obtained 


(SHAPE. 

so  often  ;  but  seeds  ought  never  to  be  sown,  except  for 
experiment. 

William  Robert  Prince,  Esq*.  in  his  Treatise  on  tire  Vine, 
published  1630,  enumerates  about  five  hundred  and  fifty 
varieties  in  cultivation,  in  the  vineyard  attached  to  the 
Linnsean  Botanic  Garden  at  Flushing,  including  about 
ninety  American  native  Grapes  ;  but  no  sufficient  evidence 
has  as  yet  been  exhibited  of  vineyards  flourishing  her« 
equal  to  what  they  do  in  Europe.  Mr.  Loubat  has  at- 
tempted to  establish  a  vineyard  on  Long  Island,  which  he 
abandoned  after  six  years'  arduous  exertion.  The  following 
have  been  found  to  succeed  best  in  the  vicinity  of  N^w-York; 
the  Sweetwater,  the  Chasselas,  the  Muscadine,  tire  While 
Tokay,  the  Black  Hamburgh,  the  Blue  Gortiga,  the  Miller 
Burgundy,  the  Austrian  Muscadel,  the  Messlier,  the  Mor- 
Hon,  the  Black  Prince,  Blanc,  and  some  excellent  seedling 
sorts  from  the  imported  Lisbon  Grapes.  To  plant  a  vinery 
for  a  full  crop  of  good  Grapes  of  various  flavours,  take  a 
white  and  red  Muscat,  a  white  and  red,  or  black  Muscadine* 
a  white  and  red  Frontignac,  a  black  or  red  Muscadel,  a 
white  Raisin  Grape,  a  white  and  red  Hamburgh,  a  Stilwell's> 
and  red  Sweet  waters,  a  white  and  red  Nice,  a  black 
Damascus,  a  red  Syracuse,  and  a  black  Constantia.  The 
above  li<$t  contains  some  of  the  most  esteemed  table 
Grapes  of  all  colours  and  flavours,  which  will  ripen  iu 
succession.  The  mos.t  preferable  kinds  of  our  native 
Grapes,  for  private  gardens,  are  the  *  Catawba,'  the  York, 
(Pa),  'Black  Madeira,'  the  Schuylkill,  Muscadel,  and  the 
Isabella.  To  these  may  he  added,  the  Scuppernong,  or 
Hickman  Grape,  which  is  said  to  be  larger  than  the-.  Fox 
Grape,  of  a  delightful  p£rfurn.e,  and.  when  ripe,  it  is,  of  a 
yellowish  white  colour. 

Previous  to  planting  Vines,  care  should  be  taken  that  the 
ground  be  well  pulverized  and  prepared  for  some  distance 
around  for  the  roots  to  spread.  The  soil  should  be  deep  and 
dry,  and  some  rich  compost,  or  vegetable  mould,  should  be 
used  around  the  roots  in  filling  in  ;  a  handful  or  two  of  wet 
to  ea.ch  plant  is  recommended^  by  Mr,  Loubat  as. 


298  GRAPE. 

beneficial ;  and  he  recommends  the  planting  to  be  done  in 
the  month  of  March,  or  early  in  April. 

There  are  various  methods  adopted  in  training  and  pru- 
ning the  Vine  ;  and  it  appears  impossible  to  lay  down  rules 
to  suit  every  cultivator.  The  Vine  having,  like  other  trees, 
a  tendency  to  produce  its  most  vigorous  shoots  at  the 
extremities  of  the  branches,  and  particularly  so  at  those 
which  are  situated  highest,  it  generally  happens,  when  it  is 
trained  high,  that  the  greater  portion  of  the  fruit  is  borne  near 
the  top  ;  and  it  has  been  observed,  that  the  fruit  produced 
on  the  vigorous  shoots,  which  naturally  grow  at  the  extremi- 
ties of  the  long  branches,  is  generally  more  abundant,  and 
of  finer  quality,  than  that  prodnced  on  the  short  lateral  ones, 
from  which  circumstance,  high  training  seems  to  be  the  best 
calculated  for  private  gardens. 

In  some  parts  of  Italy,  Vines  are  cultivated  together  with 
Mulberry  trees,  and  are  allowed  to  mingle  and  hang  in 
festoons ;  thus  silk  and  wine  are  produced  on  the  same 
spot ;  and  it  is  considered  that  when  Vines  are  allowed  to 
grow  over  trees,  on  the  side  of  a  house,  or  on  bowers,  or 
extended  on  tall  poles,  without  much  trimming,  they  will 
produce  more  fruit,  and  are  riot  so  liable  to  mildew. 

Dr.  G.  W.  Chapman  of  New- York,  having  paid  some 
attention  to  the  cultivation  of  native  Grapes,  observes,  that 
the  Vine,  in  its  natural  state,  seldom  or  ever  throws  out 
bearing  shoots  until  it  reaches  the  top  of  the  tree  on  which 
it  ascends,  when  the  branches  take  a  horizontal  or  descend- 
ing position.  From  this  fact,  he  considers  horizontal  training 
preferable  to  that  in  the  fan  shape.  From  the  experiments 
he  has  made,  he  has  found  that  the  shoots  coming  from  those 
parts  of  the  branches  bent  downwards,  are  more  productive 
than  from  those  ascending ;  he  considers  deep  digging 
around  the  Vine,  even  to  the  destruction  of  some  of  the 
extending  roots,  as  calculated  to  promote  the  growth  of  more 
fruit  and  less  wood,  than  if  allowed  to  spread  near  the  sur- 
face :  and  he  disapproves  stopping  the  shoots  before  the 
fruit  until  early  in  July. 

Mr.  William  Wilson  of  Clermont,  leaves  his  Vines  their 
whole  length  at  the  time  of  trimming  in  October.  In 


SHAPE.  299 

November,  they  are  laid  on  the  ground  at  full  length,fastened 
down  with  pins,  and  covered  lightly  with  earth ;  in  this 
state  they  lie  all  the  Winter.  In  April,  as  soon  as  the  wea* 
ther  will  permit,  they  are  uncovered,  and  left  lying  on  the 
ground  ten  or  twelve  days :  by  the  first  of  May,  the  Vines 
are  trained  to  stakes  or  poles  of  the  length  of  ten  feet  and 
upwards;  and  by  the  middle  of  June,  the  stakes  are  entirely, 
covered  by  new  shoots  of  the  Vine,  and  with  plenty  of  fruit, 
which  ripens  in  September.  Mr.  \V»  says,  that  until  he 
pursued  his  present  course,  his  fruit  was  frequently  blasted 
and  mildewed,  _but  that  he  has  now  Vines  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  long,  which  run  up  the  fruit  trees  adjoining;  others, 
being  carried  up  eight  or  ten  feet,  are  stretched  horizontally. 
It  is  seldom  he  gathers  fruit  within  three  or  four  feet  of  the 
ground,  and  he  has  never  any  blasted  or  infected  with 
mildew;  he  keeps  the  ground  cultivated  by  frequent 
hoeing  and  raking ;  but  he  says  he  has  used  no  manure  for 
ten  years,  or  more. 

Edward  H.  Bonsall,  Esq.,  has  a  vineyard  of  American 
Grapes  at  Germantown,  Pa.,  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 
In  page  331  of  Prince's  Treatise  on  the  Vine,  is  a  letter  to 
the  author,  containing  some  valuable  information,  from 
which  the  following  is  extracted  as  appropriate  to  our 
subject. 

Mr.  Bonsall's  vineyard  is  situated  between  the  Schuylkill 
and  Delaware  Rivers,  four  miles  from  the  former,  and  eight 
from  the  latter,  at  an  elevation  of  300  feet  above  their  level, 
has  an  aspect  facing  S.  S.  E.,  with  a  substratum  of  light 
isinglass  soil,  and  seems  well  suited  to  the  purpose.  He 
says,  "  from  my  experience,  both  on  my  premises,  and  at 
other  places,  it  is  my  opinion  that  we  should  reject  almost 
all  the  foreign  varieties,  especially  where  our  object  in  culti- 
vating them  is  to  make  wine."  He  has  upwards  of  thirty 
varieties  of  American  Vines  under  cultivation  ;  he  recom- 
mends preparing  the  ground  by  ploughing  with  two  ploughs 
with  strong  teams,  one  immediately  behind  the  other,  in  the 
same  furrow,  each  of  them  set  deep  ;  and  after  the  plough- 
ing is  completed,  to  be  harrowed  thoroughly.  Then  in  the 
direction  the  rows  are  intended  to  be  planted,  parallel 


300  GKAFfc. 

fnrro'ws  are  run  across  the  field,  at  the  distance  of  eiglit  feet 
from  each  other;  these  are  afterwards  crossed  at  right 
angles,  five  feet  asunder.  In  the  opening,  at  the  intersection 
of  these  furrows,  cuttings  from  nine  to  twelve  inches  long 
are  planted,  and  arranged  with  a  view  to  the  Vines  being, 
when  grown,  at  distances  of  four  by  seven  feet  from  each 
other ;  to  this  end,  he  frequently  plants  two  cuttings  in  a 
place,  some  of  which  are  used  to  fill  up  with,  in  case  of 
failures.  He  says,  that  in  1629  he  planted  in  nursery  beds 
from  two  to  three  thousand  cuttings  as  late  as  the  middle  of 
April  to  the  middle  of  May,  with  better  success  than  at  any 
previous  time.  "  In  this  case  the  slips  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool  damp  place,  where  vegetation  may  be  held  in  check. 
To  insure  their  freshness,  sprinkle  them  occasionally  with 
water.  Previous  to  planting,  cut  them  a  proper  length,  and 
place  them  with  their  lower  ends  three  or  four  inches  in 
water,  in  a  tub  above  ground,  where  they  may  soak  three  or 
four  days.  At  this  season  the  temperature  will  be  likely  to 
be  such  as  to  spur  vegetation  at  once  into  healthy  and 
vigorous  action.  The  Autumn,  or  early  in  the  Spring,  is 
preferable  for  rooted  plants.  In  the  Autumn  of  the  first 
year,  after  the  frost  has  killed  the  unripe  part  of  the  young 
shoots,  they  should  be  pruned  down  to  the  mature  firm 
wood,  and  then  with  a  hoe  filled  over  with  the  surrounding 
•  soil,  which  will  completely  protect  them  through  the  Winter. 
If  left  without  protection  the  first  Winter,  many  of  them 
will  perish." 

Mr.  Bonsall  says,  his  mode  of  training,  as  far  as  he  is 
aware  of  it,  is  entirely  peculiar  to  himself,  which  he  describes 
as  follows:  "  I  take  chestnut  posts,  the  thickness  of  large 
fence  rails,  seven  feet  in  length;  these  I  plant  along  the 
rows,  at  distances  of  ten  feet  from  each  other,  and  at  such 
a  depth  as  to  leave  five  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  earth  ; 
then  taking  three  nails  to  each  post,  and  driving  them  to 
within  half  an  inch  of  their  heads,  the  first  two  and  a  half 
feet  from  the  ground,  a  second  midway  between  that  and 
the  top,  and  the  third  near  the  top,  I  attach  No  1 1  iron  wire 
(one  degree  soft  is  best)  firmly  to  one  of  the  nails  in  the 
end  post,  pass  on  to  the  next,  and  stretching  it  straight  and 


GRAPE.  301 

tight,  give  it  one  turn  round  a  nail  in  the  same  line  as  the 
one  to  which  it  was  first  attached.  Having  in  this  manner 
extended  it  along  the  three  courses,  the  whole  length  of  the 
row,  my  trellis  is  formed.  I  have  had  a  portion  of  my 
vineyard  fitted  up  in  this  way  for  three  years,  and  experience 
has  confirmed  the  superior  fitness  of  the  plan.  It  is  not  its 
least  recommendation,  that  it  possesses  in  a  degree  the 
character  of  labour-saving  [machinery.  A  very  important 
and  extensive  labour-making  portion  of  the  operations  in 
the  vineyard  during  the  Summer,  is  the  attention  required 
by  the  growing  shoots  to  keep  them  properly  trained  up. 
They  grow  and  extend  themselves  so  rapidly,  that  where  the 
strips  of  the  trellis  are  lath,  or  where  poles  are  used  to  sup- 
port vines,  unless  very  closely-watched,  they  fall  down  in 
every  direction,  in  a  very  unsightly  and  injurious  manner. 
Here  the  wire  being  small,  the  tendrils  or  claspers  eagerly 
and  firmly  attach  themselves  to  it,  and  thus  work  for  them- 
selves, in  probably  two-thirds  of  the  instances  where  the 
attention  of  the  vigneron  would  otherwise  be  required. 
There  is  a  free  access  afforded  to  the  Sun  and  air,  and  no 
hold  for  the  wind  to  strain  the  frame,"  &c.  Mr.  Bonsall 
says  further,  "  I  shall  not  enter  into  a  minute  description  of 
my  manner  of  pruning,  but  may  just  say,  that  after  the  vines 
have  attained  a  lull  capacity  for  production,  (say  five  years 
from  the  cutting,)  my  view  is  to  prepare  them  for  bearing 
an  average  of  fifty  clusters  to  each,  leaving  several  shoots  of 
from  three  to  five  joints  on  a  vine  for  this  purpose.  When 
fresh  pruned,  they  will  not  be  more  than  four  feet  high,  at 
their  greatest  age." 

Although  the  man  of  taste  and  capacity  for  improving  on 
the  improvements  of  others,  may  have  gleaned  ideas  from 
the  above  extracts,  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  cultivate  the 
vine  in  his  own  garden,  it  may  be  necessary  to  direct  the 
reader's  attention  to  the  different  methods  of  cultivating  this 
excellent  fruit  in  varied  situations. 

A  Vine  may  be  trained  horizontally  under  the  coping  of 
a  close  fence  or  wall,  to  a  great  distance,  and  the  borders 
in  an  East,  South-East,  and  Southern  aspect  of  large  gar- 
dens, may  be  furnished  with  a  variety  of  sorts,  which  will 

26 


302  GRAPtf. 

ripen  in  great  perfection,  without  encumbering  the  borders; 
or  the  plants  may  be  trained  low,  like  currant  bushes,  in 
which  case,  three  or  more  shoots,  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet 
in  length,  may  diverge  from  the  stem  near  the  ground,  to 
supply  young  wood  annually  for  bearing.  The  Summer 
pruning  consists  in  removing  shoots  which  have  no  fruit,  or 
are  not  required  for  the  succeeding  season  ;  in  topping  fruit- 
bearing  shoots,  and  also  those  for  succeeding  years,  when 
inconveniently  long  and  straggling.  For  as  by  this  mode, 
the  shoots  destined  to  bear,  afe  all  cut  in — to  three  or  four 
eyes  at  the  Winter  pruning,  no  inconvenience  arises  from 
their  throwing  out  laterals  near  the  extremities,  which 
stopping  will  generally  cause  them  to  do. 

In  training  Vines  as  standards,  the  single  stem  at  the 
bottom  is  not  allowed  to  exceed  six  or  eight  inches  in  height, 
and  from  this  two  or  three  shoots  are  trained,  or  tied  to  a 
single  stake  of  three  or  four  feet  in  length.  These  shoots 
bear  each  two  or  three  bunches,  within  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches  of  the  ground,  and  they  are  annually  succeeded  by 
others  which  spring  from  their  base,  that  is,  from  the  crown 
or  top  of  the  dwarf  main  stem.  This  is  the  mode  practised 
in  the  North  of  France  and  in  Germany;  in  the  South  of 
France  and  Italy,  the  base  or  main  stem  is  often  higher,  and 
furnished  with  side  shoots,  in  order  to  afford  a  great  supply 
of  bearing  wood,  which  is  tied  to  one  or  more  poles  of 
greater  height.  The  Summer  pruning  in  this  case,  is 
nearly  the  same  as  in  the  last.  In  the  Winter  pruning,  the 
wood  that  has  borne  is  cut  out,  and  the  new  wood  shorten edy 
in  cold  situations,  to  three  or  four  eyes,  and  in  warmer 
places  to  six  or  eight  eyes. 

Abercrombie's  methods  of  pruning  established  Vines, 
admit  of  much  diversity,  as  the  plants'  are  in  different  situa- 
tions. Without  reckoning  the  cutting  down  of  young  or 
weak  plants  alternately  to  the  lowermost  Summer  shoots^ 
which  is  but  a  temporary  course,  three  different  systems  of 
pruning  have  their  advocates.  In  the  first  method,  one 
perpendicular  leader  is  trained  from  the  stem,  at  the  side  of 
which,  to  the  right  and  left,  the  ramifications  spring.  When 
the  plant  is  established,  the  immediate  bearers,  or  shoots  of 


GRAPE.  303 

the  growing  season,  and  the  mother  bearers,  or  shoots  of 
the  last  year's  growth,  are  thus  managed.  Soon  after  the 
growing  season  has  commenced,  such  rising  shoots  as 
either  are  in  fruit  and  fit  to  be  retained,  or  are  eligibly  placed 
for  mother  bearers  next  season,  are  laid  in,  either  horizon- 
tally, or  with  a  slight  diagonal  rise,  at  something  less  than 
a  foot  distance,  measuring  from  one  bearing  shoot  to  the 
next ;  the  rising  shoots,  intended  to  form  young  wood, 
should  be  taken  as  near  the  origin  of  the  branch  as  a  good 
one  offers,  to  allow  of  cutting  away,  beyond  the  adopted 
lateral,  a  greater  quantity  of  the  branch,  as  it  becomes  old 
wood  ;  the  new  Spring  laterals,  not  wanted  for  one  of  these 
two  objects,  are  pinched  off.  The  treatment  of  those 
retained  during  the  rest  of  the  Summer,  thus  differs  :  As  the 
shoots  in  bearing  extend  in  growth,  they  are  kept  stopped, 
about  two  eyes  beyond  the  fruit ;  the  connate  shoots,  culti- 
vated merely  to  enlarge  the  provision  of  wood,  are  divested 
of  embryo  branches,  if  they  show  any,  and  trained  at  full 
length  as  they  advance  during  the  Summer,  until  they  reach 
the  allotted  bounds  ;  were  they  stopped  in  the  middle  of  their 
growth,  it  would  cause  them  to  throw  out  tronblesome 
laterals  ;  in  the  Winter  pruning,  there  will  thus  be  a  great 
choice  of  mother  bearers.  That  nearest  the  origin  of  the 
former  mother  bearer,  or  most  comniodiously  placed,  is 
retained,  and  the  other  or  others  on  the  same  branch  are  cut 
away  ;  the  rest  of  the  branch  is  also  taken  off,  so  that  the 
old  wood  may  terminate  with  the  adopted  lateral ;  the 
adopted  shoot  is  then  shortened  to  two,  three,  four,  or  a 
greater  number  of  eyes,  according  to  its  place  on  the  Vine, 
its  own  strength,  or  the  strength  of  the  Vine.  The  lower 
shoots  are  pruned  in — the  shortest,  in  order  to  promote  a 
growth  of  young  wood,  at  the  bottom  of  the  Vine." 

The  second  method  is  to  head  down  the  natural  leader, 
so  as  to  cause  it  to  throw  out  two,  three,  or  more  principal 
shoots  ;  these  are  trained  as  leading  branches  ;  and  in  the 
Winter  pruning  are  not  reduced,  unless  to  shape  them  to 
the  limits  of  the  trellisr  or  unless  the  plant  appears  too 
weak  to  sustain  them  'at  length.  Laterals  from  these  are 
cultivated  about  twelve  inches  apart,  as  mother  bearers ; 


304  GRAPE. 

those  in  fruit  are  stopped  in  Summer,  and  after  the  fall  of 
the  leaf,  are  cut  in — to  one  or  two  eyes.  From  the  appear- 
ance of  the  mother  bearers,  thus  shortened,  this  has  been 
called  spur-bearing. 

The  third  method  seems  to  flow  from  taking  the  second 
plan  as  a  foundation,  in  having  more  than  one  aspiring 
leader,  and  from  joining  the  superstructure  of  the  first  system 
immediately  to  this,  and  in  reserving  well-placed  shoots 
to  come  in  as  bearing  wood.  Thus,  supposing  a  stem 
which  has  been  headed,  to  send  up  four  vigorous  competing 
leaders,  two  are  suffered  to  bear  fruit,  and  two  are  divested 
of  such  buds  as  break  into  clusters,  and  trained  to  the 
length  of  ten,  twelve,  or  fifteen  feet,  or  more,  for  mother 
bearers  next  season.  In  the  Winter  pruning,  the  leaders 
which  have  borne  a  crop,  are  cut  down  to  within  two  eyes  of 
the  stool,  or  less,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  plant, 
while  the  reserved  shoots  lose  no  more  of  their  tops  than  is 
necessary  to  adjust  them  to  the  trellis." 

Nicol  observes,  that  "most  of  the  Summer  pruning  of 
Vines  may  be  performed  with  the  fingers,  without  a  knife, 
the  shoots  to  be  displaced  being  easily  rubbed  off,  and  those 
to  be  shortened,  being  little,  are  readily  pinched  asunder." 
After  selecting  the  shoots  to  be  trained  for  the  production  of 
a  crop  next  season,  and  others  necessary  for  filling  the  trellis 
from  the  bottom,  which  shoots  should  be  generally  laid  in 
at  the  distance  of  a  foot  or  fifteen  inches  from  each  other, 
rub  off  all  the  others  that  have  no  clusters,  and  shorten  those 
that  have,  at  one  joint  above  the  uppermost  cluster.  For 
this  purpose,  go  over  the  plants  every  three  or  four  8ays 
till  all  the  shoots  in  fruit  have  shown  their  clusters,  at  the 
same  time  rubbing  off  any  water  shoots  that  may  rise  from 
the  wood, 

Train  in  the  shoots  to  be  retained,  as  they  advance.  If 
there  be  an  under  trellis,  on  which  to,  train  the  Summer 
shoots,  they  may,  when  six  or  eight  feet  in  length,  or  when 
the  Grapes  are  swelling,  be  let  down  to  it,  that  the  fruit  may 
enjoy  the  full  air  and  light,  as  it  advances  towards  maturity, 
Such  of  these  shoots  as  issue  from  the  bottom,  and  are  to  be 
shortened  in  the  Winter  pruning  to  a  few  eyes,  merely  for 


GRAPE.  305 

(he  production  of  wood  to  fill  the  trellis,  may  be  stopped 
when  they  have  grown  to  the  length  of  four  or  five  feet. 
Others  that  are  intended  to  be  cut  down  to  about  two  yards, 
and  which  issue  at  different  heights,  may  be  stopped  when 
they  have  run  three  yards,  or  ten  feet,  less  or  more,  ac- 
cording to  their  strength.  And  those  intended  to  be  cut  at 
or  near  to  the  top  of  the  trellis,  should  be  trained  a  yard  or 
two  down  the  back,  or  a  trellis  may  be  placed  so  as  to  form 
an  arbour  ;  or  they  may  be  placed  to  run  right  or  left  a  few 
feet  on  the  uppermost  wire* 

The  stubs  or  shoots  on  which  the  clusters  are  placed,  will 
probably  push  again  after  being  stopped,  if  the  plants  be 
vigorous.  If  so,  stop  them  again  and  again  ;  but  after  the 
fruit  are  half  grown,  they  will  seldom  spring.  Observe  to 
divest  the  shoots,  in  training,  of  all  laterals  as  they  appear, 
except  the  uppermost  on  each,  in  order  to  provide  against 
accidents,  as  hinted  at  before,  in  training  the  newly  planted 
Vines.  When  these  shoots  are  stopped,  as  directed  above, 
they  will  push  again.  Allow  the  lateral  that  pushes,  to  run 
a  few  joints,  and  then  shorten  it  back  to  one,  and  so  on  as  it 
pushes,  until  it  stops  entirely.  When  the  proper  shoots 
get  ripened  nearly  to  the  top,  the  whole  may  be  cut  back  to 
the  originally  shortened  part,,  or  to  one  joint  above  it,  if 
there  be  reason  to  fear  that  the  uppermost  bud  of  the  proper 
shoot  will  start. 

Divest  the  plants  of  all  damped  and  decayed  leaves  as  they 
appear,  as  such  will  sometimes  occur  in  continued  hazy 
weather,  and  be  particularly  cautious  not  to  injure  the  leaf 
that  accompanies  the  bunch,  for  if  that  is  lost,  the  fruit  will 
be  of  little  value. 

'•  Every  one  of  penetration  and  discernment,"  Nicol  ob- 
serves, "  will  admit  the  utility  of  thinning  the  berries  on 
bunches  of  grapes,  in  order  that  they  may  have  room  to 
swell  fully;  and  further  that  of  supporting  the  shoulders  of 
such  clusters  of  the  large  growing  kinds  as  hang  loosely, 
and  require  to  be  suspended  to  the  trellis  or  branches,  in 
order  to  prevent  the  bad  effects  of  damp  or  mouldiness  id 
very  moist  seasons.  Of  these,  the  Hamburgh,  Lombardy, 
Royal  Muscadine,  Raisin,  St.  Peter's,  Syrian,  Tokay,  and 


306  GRAPE. 

others,  should  have  their  shoulders  suspended  to  the  trellis, 
or  to  the  branches,  by  strands  of  fresh  matting,  when  the 
berries  are  about  the  size  of  garden  peas.  At  the  same  time, 
the  clusters  should  be  regularly  thinned  out  with  narrow 
pointed  scissors,  to  the  extent  of  from  a  fourth  to  a  third 
part  of  the  berries.  The  other  close-growing  kinds,  as  the 
Frontignacs,  Muscats,  &c.,  should  likewise  be  moderately 
thinned,  observing  to  thin  out  ths  small  seedless  berries  only 
of  the  Muscadine,  Sweet  Water,  and  flame-coloured  Tokay. 
In  this  manner,  handsome  bunches  and  full-swelled  berries 
may  be  obtained  ;  but  more  so,  if  the  clusters  or  over-bur- 
dened plants  be  also  moderately  thinned  away.  Indeed, 
cutting  off  the  clusters,  to  a  certain  extent,  of  plants  over- 
loaded, and  pushing  weak  wood,  are  the  only  means  by 
which  to  cause  them,  to  produce  shoots  fit  to  bear 
fruit  next  year;  and  this  should  be  duly  attended  to, 
so  long  as  the  future  welfare  of  the  plants  is  a  matter 
of  importance. 

The  preceding  observations  may  be  considered  as  falling 
short  of  what  may  be  expected  on  the  cultivation  of  so 
important  a  fruit  as  the  Grape  ;  but  it  is  introduced  into  this 
book  only  as  a  garden  fruit.  The  modes  of  training  in 
vineyards  and  vineries,  are  alike  suited  to  the  garden.  Low 
training  may  be  practised  in  borders  or  hedge  rows,  in  large 
gardens  ;  and  high  training  in  sheltered  situations,  on  high 
trellises  or  arbours.  By  proper  management,  the  Vine  may 
be  elevated  to  the  middle  story  of  a  house  by  a  single  stem* 
and  afterwards  trained  to  a  great  height,  according  to  the 
taste  of  the  proprietor.  As  the  Vine  is  often  trained  near 
buildings,  an  awning  may  be  conveniently  formed  over  the 
tops  so  as  to  admit  of  fumigating  the  Vine  with  smoke  from 
tobacco,  &c.,  as  may  be  necessary  in  the  Summer  season  ; 
or  a  sort  of  movable  tent  may  be  made  of  light  boards,  and 
cheap  glazed  linen,  or  an  old  sail,&c.,  capable  of  covering 
the  Vine  while  a  smoke  is  created  underneath  ;  this  will 
effectually  destroy  such  insects  as  may  annoy  the  Vine,  and 
may  prevent  mildew  and  other  diseases. 


307- 
MULBERRY. 

MURIER.      Moms.  . 

THERE  are  several  species  of  the  Morus  or  Mulberry, 
The  white  kind  is  commonly  cultivated  for  its  leaves  to  feed 
silkworms,  though  in  some  parts  of  Spain,  and  in  Persia, 
they  are  said  to  piefer  the  Black  Mulberry.  In  China,  .it 
appears  that  both  sorts  are  grown  for  the  same  purpose. 
The  most  esteemed  variety  of  the  white  is  one  grown  in 
Italy,  and  especially  in  Lombardy,  with  vigorous  shoots, 
and  much  larger  leaves  than  the  otlien.  The  Morus  multi- 
caulis  is  caltivated  in  many  parts  of  France,  and  is  by  some 
preferred  to  all  other  varieties.  Jt  is  said  that  a  less  quan- 
tity of  foliage  from  this  variety  will  satisfy  the  silkworms. 
The  late  Andrew  Parmentier,  Esq.,  was  the  means  of 
introducing  several  choice  varieties  from  that  country  ;  and 
our  nurserymen  generally,  have,  of  late  years,  turned  their 
attention  to  the  cultivation  of  such  as  are  best  adapted  for 
silkworms,  which  are  sold  at  moderate  prices. 

In  France,  the  white  Mulberry  is  grown  as  pollard  Elms 
are  in  England.  In  Lombardy,  it  is  grown  in  low  marshy 
ground.  In  China,  it  is  also  grown  in  moist  loamy  soil, 
and  both  there  and  in  the  East  Indies,  as  low  bushes,  and 
the  plantations  rooted  up  and  renewed  every  three  or  four 
years.  In  many  parts,  when  the  leaves  are  wanted  for  the 
worms,,  they  are  stripped  off  the  young  shoots,  which  are 
left  naked  on  the  tree  ;  in  other  places,  the  shoots  are  cut 
off,  which  is  not  so  injurious  to  the  tree,  while  the  points  of 
the  shoots,  as  well  as  the  leaves,  are  eaten  by  the  worms. 

The  plants  are  sometimes  raised  from  seed,  and  one  ounce 
of  seed  will  produce  5000  trees,  if  sovvn  in  rich  loamy  soil, 
the  latter  end  of  April,  or  early  in  May  ;  but  the  young 
plants  will  require  protection  the  first  Winter ;  they  are 
more  commonly  propagated  by  layers  and  cuttings,  put 
down  in  the  Spring.  The  Italian  variety  is  frequently 
grafted  on  seedling  stocks  of  the  common  sort,  in  order  to 
preserve  it  from  degenerating.  In  the  East  Indies,  the  plant? 


308  MULBERRY. 

are  raised  from  cuttings,  three  or  four  of  which  are  placed 
together,  where  they  are  finally  to  remain. 

But  Mulberry  trees  are  valuable  for  their  fruit ;  and  in 
England  the  black  and  red  kinds  are  in  great  esteem,  and 
much  cultivated.  The  fruit  of  the  white  Mulberry  is  white, 
and  less  acid  than  that  of  the  black  species.  The  black  is 
naturally  a  stronger  tree  than  the  other ;  the  fruit  is  of  a 
dark  blackish  red,  and  of  an  agreeable  aromatic  and  acid 
flavour.  The  red  Mulberry  has  black  shoots,  rougher 
leaves  than  the  black  Mulberry,  and  a  dark  reddish  fruit, 
longer  than  the  common  sort,  and  of  a  very  pleasant  taste. 
The  fruit  of  the  yellow  Mulberry  is  very  sweet  and  whole- 
some, but  not  much  eaten,  excepting  by  birds  ;  the  timber, 
however,  is  valuable,  from  its  abounding  in  a  slightly  gluti- 
nous milk  of  a  sulphureous  colour,  and  is  known  in  Europe 
under  the  name  of  fustic  wood,  for  dying  a  yellow  colour. 

In  Russia,  the  fruit  of  the  Morus  tartarica  is  eaten  fresh, 
conserved,  or  dried ;  a  wine  and  a  spirit  are  also  made 
from  them,  but  the  berries  are  said  to  be  of  an  insipid  taste. 

All  species  of  the  Morus  are  remakable  for  putting  out 
their  leaves  late,  so  that  when  they  appear,  gardeners  may 
safely  set  out  their  greenhouse  plants,  taking  it  for  granted 
that  all  danger  from  frost  is  over  ;  from  this  circumstance, 
plantations  of  Mulberry  trees  may  be  made  in  this  country 
in  the  Spring  of  the  year  with  greater  safety.. 

The  Mulberry  produces  its  fruit  chiefly  on  little  shoots  of 
the  same  year,  which  arise  on  last  year's  wood  and  on 
spurs  from  the  two  year  old  wood  ;  in  both  stages,  mostly 
at  the  ends  of  the  shoots  and  the  branches.  In  pruning, 
thin  out  irregular  crossing  branches,  but  never  shorten  the 
young  wood,  on  which  the  fruit  is  produced.  If  any  of  th« 
dwarfish  kinds  are  cultivated  as  espaliers  for  their  fruits,  cut 
so  as  to  bring  in  a  partial  succession  of  new  wood  every 
year,  and  a  complete  succession  once  in  two  years,  taking 
the  old  barren  wood  out,  as  may  be  necessary.  As  tbe 
blossom  buds  cannot  be  readily  distinguished  from  others  in 
the  Winter,  the  best  period  for  pruning  is  when  the  blossom* 
ftrst  become  visible  in  the  Spring. 

There  is  another  genus  of  plants,   ki    vn  as  the  Paper 


NECTARINE.  309 

Mulberry,  which  is  very  ornamental,  called  Broussonetia 
papyrifera ;  though  a  low  tree,  it  has  vigorous  shoots, 
furnished  with  two  large  leaves  ;  the  fruit,  which  is  small,  is 
surrounded  with  long  purple  hairs,  changing  to  a  black 
purple  colour  when  ripe,  and  full  of  juice.  "  In  China  and 
Japan,  it  is  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  the  young  shoots, 
from  the  bark  of  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  Eastern 
countries  make  paper.  The  bark  being  separated  from  the 
wood,  is  steeped  in  water,  the  former  making  the  whitest 
and  best  paper.  The  bark  is  next  slowly  boiled,  then 
washed,  and  afterwards  put  upon  a  wooden  table,  and  beat 
into  a  pulp.  This  pulp  being  put  in  water,  separates  like 
grains  of  meal.  An  infusion  of  rice,  and  the  root  of  man- 
hiot  are  next  added  to  it.  From  the  liquor  so  prepared,  th« 
sheets  of  paper  are  poured  out  one  by  one,  and  when 
pressed,  the  operation  in  finished." 

"The  juice  of  this  tree  is  sufficiently  tenacious  to  be  used 
in  China  as  a  glue,  in  gilding  either  leather  or  paper.  The 
finest  and  whitest  cloth  worn  by  the  principal  people  at 
Otaheite,  and  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  is  made  of  the  bark 
of  this  tree.  The  cloth  of  the  Bread  Fruit  tree  is  inferior 
in  whiteness  and  softness,  and  worn  chiefly  by  the  common 
people." 


NECTARINE. 

PECHERA  FRUIT  LISSE,  ou  BROGNONS.  Amygdalus  nectarine*. 

THE  varieties  of  this  fruit  resemble  the  Peach  in  every 
respect,  except  that  the  skin  is  perfectly  smooth,  of  a  waxen 
appearance,  and  the  flesh  generally  more  firm  ;  although 
of  the  same  genus  as  the  Peach,  which  is  so  plentiful  in  this 
country,  the  fruit  of  the  Nectarine  is  quite  a  rarity,  and 
seldom  appears  in  our  markets.  There  are  seventy-two 
varieties  cultivated  in  the  Horticultural  Garden  of  London  ; 
and  Nicol  says,  that  i:  no  varieties  of  the  Nectarine  are  at 
present  known  to  have  originated  in  North  America,  except 
"the  Boston," 


310  NECTARINE. 

It  is  generally  allowed  that  their  failure  is  occasioned  by 
the  attacks  of  insects.  The  most  efficacious  method  that  I 
have  heard  of,  for  securing  any  thing  like  a  crop  of 
Nectarines,  is  to  fumigate  the  trees  in  the  evening,  when 
the  air  is  calm  and  serene,  at  the  season  when  this  fruit  is 
ready  to  set,  see  pages  244  to  250.  Tobacco  is  the  most 
effectual  antidote  for  these  insects  ;  butafrien'd  of  mine  collec- 
ted a  quantity  of  salt  hay  that  had  been  used  for  his  spinach 
the  preceding  Winter;  with  this  he  created  a  smoke,  first  on 
one  side  of  his  plantation,  and  afterwards  on  the  other,  by 
which  means  he  obtained  a  good  supply  of  fruit.  Our 
enterprising  horticulturist,  Mr.  W.  Shaw,  has  succeeded  in 
gathering  fine  fruit,  by  pursuing  the  English  plan,  namelyi 
in  training  his  trees  against  a  close  fence  ;  and  it  has  been 
discovered  by  others,  that  the  Nectarine,  like  the  Grape 
Vine,  will  yield  best  in  sheltered  situations.  That  eminent 
horticulturist,  Mr.  David  Thomas,  observes,  that  **  a  vast 
quantity  of  fruitis  annually  destroyed  by  by  tlieCurculio  which 
causes  the  Plum,  Apricot  and  Nectarine,  prematurely  to 
drop  from  the  tree.  To  prevent  this  loss,  let  the  tree  after 
the  blossoms  fall,  be  frequently  shaken  by  a  cord  connected 
with  a  swinging  door,  or  with  a  working  pump-handle,  &c. ; 
or  let  the  bugs  be  jarred  from  the  tree  and  killed.  Or  keep 
geese  enough  in  the  fruit  garden  to  devour  all  the  dama- 
ged fruit  as  it  falls.  We  know  that  this  last  method  i» 
infallible." 

As  some  may  object  to  shaking  or  jarring  fruit  trees,  for 
fear  of  disturbing  the  fruit,  such  are  here  reminded,  that  if 
the  blossoms  set  more  fruit  than  can  be  supported,  it  will  not 
come  to  full  perfection,  and  the  trees  may  be  injured  in  their 
future  bearing  ;  for  these  reasons,  when  fruit  sets  too  thick* 
it  shQuldbe  thinned  in  an  early  stage  of  its  growth. 

The  Nectarine,  as  also  the  Peach  tree,  are  subject  to  injury 
by  an  insect  different  to  the  Curculio  species,  which  feeds  on 
sap  beneath  the  bark,  principally  near  the  surface  of  the 
earth  ;  but  if  not  checked,  will  commit  ravages  on  the  trunk 
and  root,  so  as  eventually  to  destroy  the  tree.  The  egg  i  s 
supposed  to  be  first  deposited  in  the  upper  part  of  the  tree  ; 
and  in  the  months  of  June  and  July,  it  becomes  a  very  small 


I 

NECTARINE.  311 

f 

maggot,  which  drops  to  the  ground,  and  approaches  the 
tree  near  the  surface.  If  the  ground  be  kept  clear  around 
the  roots,  as  it  ought  always  to  be,  the  worm  can  readily  be 
detected  by  a  small  speck  of  gum,  which  appears  on  the  tree 
after  it  has  made  its  entrance,  which  gumminess  will  increase 
in  quantity  as  it  progresses  ;  but  if  the  trees  are  thoroughly 
examined  about  once  a  week  or  ten  days,  and  the  gum 
wherever  found,  removed  by  means  of  a  small  knife  or 
pointed  wire,  the  worm  may  he  at  once  defeated  from 
making  any  havock  on  the  trees.  An  orchard  of  several 
acres  may  be  kept  free  from  worms  by  going  over  it  a  few 
times. — After  a  shower  of  rain  is  a  good  time,  as  the  gum 
can  then  be  more  easily  discovered,  and  when  it  is  removed, 
the  wound  will  soon  heal  up,  and  the  danger  is  over,  pro- 
vided the  ground  be  kept  cultivated  around  the  trees  ;  and 
the  collar  or  that  part  from  which  emanate  the  main  roots 
be  near  the  surface. 


This  is  an  important  precaution,  and  should  be  attended 
to  at  the  time  of  transplanting  all  descriptions  of  trees  and 
smaller  plants  ;  because  deep  planting  prevents  the  essential 
circulation  of  the  juices  of  plants  in  their  regular  and  natura 
courses,  and  consequently  causes  disease  and  premature 
death  ;  and  it  must  be  admitted,  that  from  the  circumstance 
of  this  fruit  being  generally  raised  on  standard  trees,  and  in 
aslight  soil  our  cultivators  are  apt  to  plant  too  deep; 
and  thus  act  contrary  to  sound  judgement  and  philosophy, 
with  a  view  to  save  the  trouble  and  expense  of  staking  or 
otherwise  supporting  their  newly  planted  trees,  which  pre- 
caution is  absoluteiy  necessary  to  their  preservation,  even  in 
less  tempestuous  climates,  and  in  stiff  as  well  as  in  light  soil. 

Saltpetre  dissolved  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  five 
gallons  of  water,  and  applied  around  the  stems  and  roots  of 
trees,  as  recommended  for  plants  in  general,  page  12  of  the 
general  remarks,  is,  in  my  opinion,  one  of  the  best  remedies 
for  the  destruction  of  various  kinds  of  insects  ;  it  is  moreover 
allowed  by  modern  and  learned  physiologists  to  contain  the 
most  essential  nutriment  to  all  descriptions  of  trees  or  smaller 


312 


NECTARINE. 


plants,  when  judiciously  used.  Other  remedies  are  recom- 
mended  to  be  applied  for  the  destruction  of  these  insects 
around  fruit  trees,  besides  those  previously  mentioned  ;  as 
dissolved  potash,  coal  tar,  sulphur  and  lime*-mortar  mixed, 
vinegar,  soap  suds,  &c.  Culture,  upon  correct  principles, 
will,  however,  in  general  operate  not  only  as  a  radical  cure, 
but  as  a  preventive  to  all  defects  in  trees  and  plants  ;  which 
to  be  healthy  and  productive,  should  be  so  managed  that 
the  sap  and  nutrimental  juices  can  circulate  through  every 
pore  which  Nature  has  designed  for  their  perpetuity.  (See 
article  on  the  choice  of  Fruit  Trees  in  the  Nursery,  page  259, 
also  article  Peach.) 

The  Nectarine  is  generally  budded  on  stocks  of  the  same 
species,  or  on  Peach  or  Plum,  two  or  three  years  old. 
Knight  recommends  growing  Almond  stocks  for  the  finer 
kinds  of  Nectarines -and  Apricots,  as  likely  to  prevent  the 
mildew,  and  as  being  allied  to  the  Peach.  Dubreuil  recom- 
mends a  Plum  stock  for  clayey  soils,  and  the  Almond  for 
such  as  are  light,  chalky,  or  sandy.  The  same  opinion  is 
held  by  the  Montreal  gardeners.  The  Flemish  nurserymen 
graft  both  the  Peach  and  Nectarine  on  the  Myrabella  Plum, 
a  very  small  cherry-shaped  fruit. 

The  budding  may  be  performed  in  July  or  August,  in  the 
side  of  the  stock,  which  will,  if  properly  managed,  shoot  the 
following  Spring,  and  attain  the  length  of  three  or  four  feet 
the  first  year. "  After  the  budded  trees  have  ripened  their 
first  year's  shoots,  they  may  either  be  planted  where  they 
are  to  remain,  or  retained  in  the  nursery  for  two,  three,  or 
four  years,  till  in  a  bearing  state.  Whether  the  plants  be 
removed  into  the  orchard  at  a  year  old,  or  remain  in  the 
nursery,  the  first  shoots  from  the  bud  must  be  headed  down 
in  a  judicious  manner,  in  order  to  promote  the  most  desirable 
form.  In  annual  pruning,  thin  out  superfluous  branches  and 
dry  wood,  and  shorten  the  bearing  shoots. 

Nectarines  may  be  trained  to  a  close  fence,  or  wall,  in 
private  gardens  ;  in  which  case,  such  plants  should  be  cho- 
sen as  are  budded  low.  (See  article  Apricot) 


:S13 

SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  HECTJfflGES, 


FREESTONE    NECTARINES. 

AROMATIC.  A  middle  sized,  rather  globular  fruit,  deep  red  or  brown 
next  the  sun ;  flesh  pale  straw,  but  red  at  the  stone ;  juice  of  a  rich 
vinous  flavour ;  ripe  early  in  August. 

EARLY  VIOLET,  Violette  Native,  Petite  Violette  Hative,  Lord  Selscy's 
Elruge,  Large  Scarlet.  Fruit  variable  in  size,  generally  medium ;  pale 
yellowish  green,  but  darkish  purple  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  melting, 
juicy,  rich  and  excellent;  ripe  in  August. 

FAIRCHILD'S  EARLY.  Fruit  very  early,  but  small;  of  globular  shape, 
yellow  in  the  shade,  deep  scarlet  next  the  sun;  flesh  yellow,  not  juicy, 
but  well  flavoured  ;  ripe  in  July  and  August. 

LEWIS'S  SEEDLING.  A  fine  native  variety,  raised  by  Mr.  Lewis  of 
Boston;  fruit  of  medium  size;  heart-shaped;  colour  bright  yellow, 
mottled  with  red;  flesh  yellow,  firm,  pleasant  and  peculiar  in  flavour  ; 
ripe  in  September. 

MILLER'S  EL  RUG  R:  One  of  the  very  best  and  most  high  flavoured 
nectarines;  fruit  medium  size,  of  a  dark  red  and  pale  yellow  colour  ; 
pulp  melting,  very  juicy,  rich  and  higli  flavoured ;  ripens  early  h> 
August. 

PJTMASTON'S  ORANGE.  A  good  sized  globular,  or  heart-shaped  fruit, 
of  a  rich  yellow  colour,  but  dark  crimson  or  purple  next  th«  sun;  flesh 
golden  yellow,  but  red  next  the  stone,  from  which  it  separates  ;  it  i? 
melting,  juicy,  saccharine  and  high  flavoured  ;  ripe  in  August. 

SCARLET.  A  middle  sized  fruit;  of  a  beautiful  scarlet  colour  next 
the  sun,  and  pale  red  on  the  shaded  side ;  the  flesh  separates  from  the 
stone,  and  is  at  maturity  in  August. 

VERMASH,  True  Vermash.  This  fruit  is  rather  of  small  size,  and 
round  form,  tapering  towards  the  eye  ;  the  skin  is  of  a  very  deep  red 
colour  next  the  sun ;  and  of  a  greenish  hue  on  the  other  side ;  pulp 
rich,  melting  and  juicy ;  at  maturity  in  August. 

WHITE,  OR  FLANDKRS  NECTARINE,  New  White,  Emerson  s  New  White. 
Neale's  White.  A  middle  sized,  roundish,  very  pale  fruit,  slightly  tinged 
with  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  tender  and  juicy,  with  a  fine  vinous  fla- 
vour. The  Pomological  Magazine  describes  this  as  a  clingstone'; 
Lindley  as  a  freestone. 

CLINGSTONES,  OR  PAVIEF. 

BRUGNOX  VIOLET  MUSQUE,  Brugnon  Musque.  Fruit  large ;  of  a 
deep  red  and  yellow  colour ;  skin  very  smooth ;  flesh  yellow,  but  red 
at  the  stone  ;  saccharine,  vinous,  musky ;  at  maturity  in  August  and 
September. 

27 


314  ORANGE. 

EARLY  NEWINGTON,  Early  Black  Newington,  Lucombes  Seedling.  Fruit 
below  the  middle  size,  ovate,  skin  pale  green,  and  on  the  sunny  side  of 
a  deep  red  colour;  pulp  super-excellent;  considered  by  some  as  the  best 
of  all  nectarines;  ripe  in  August  and  September. 

GOLDEN.  Fruit  medium  size,  of  the  finest  orange  colour,  delicately 
and  beautifully  mottled  with  red  next  the  sun,  which  gives  to  it  a  clear 
waxen  appearance  ;  flesh  firm,  yellow/ pale  red  at  the  stone,  and  has  a 
poignant,  rich  flavour  ;  ripens  in  August  and  September. 

ITALIAN,  Brugnon  or  Italian.  A  large  globular  or  pale  yellow  fruit, 
marbled  with  dark  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  firm,  yellow,  red  at  the  stone, 
juicy,  rich  and  excellent ;  ripe  in  August. 

RED  ROMAN,  Roman  Red.  A  very  excellent  nectarine,  of  large  size ; 
the  skin  dark  red  next  the  sun,  and  of  a  yellowish  hue  on  the  other  side ; 
Hesh  yellowish,  but  red  next  the  atone  ;  it  abounds  with  rich  juice  when 
fully  ripe,  in  August  and  September. 

SCARLET  NEWINGTON,  Late  Newington.  Old  Newington.  This  variety 
is  much  esteemed ;  the  fruit  large,  of  a  beautiful  red  colour  next  the  sun, 
and  of  a  fine  yellow  on  the  other  side ;  its  quality  is  excellent,  being 
rich  and  juicy  ;  early  in  September. 

TAWNY  NEWINGTON.  Fruit  large,  somewhat  ovate ;  tawny-coloured, 
marbled  with  dull  red  or  orange  next  the  sun;  flesh  pale  yellow,  but 
red  at  the  stone;  very  juicy,  sugary,  and  of  the  mo.t  delicious  flavour*' 
ripens  in  August  and,  September. 


ORANGE,  LEMON,  &c. 

GRANGER,  CITRONIEB,  &c.      Citrus. 

NOTWITHSTANDING  this  fruit,  and  also  the  Lemon,  Lime, 
&c.,  are  attainable  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  by  supplies 
from  our  Southern  States,  the  West  Indies,  and  the  South 
of  Europe,  yet  the  plants  are  entitled  to  our  notice  on 
account  of  their  being  so  easily  cultivated,  and  from  their 
affording  an  ornament  by  exhibiting  their  fruit  the  whole  of 
the  year. 

The  Orange,  as  well  as  others  of  the  same  genus,  are 
generally  cultivated  as  green-house  plants,  but  may  be 
kept  in  a  light  room  throughout  our  severe  Winters,  provided 
the  temperature  is  not  suffered  to  be  below  the  freezing 
point,  32°.  Its  recommendations  are,  handsome  evergreen, 
shining,  tree-like  forms  ;  most  odoriferous  flowers,  and 


315 

brilliant,  fragrant,  delicious  fruits,  which  succeed  each 
other  perpetually,  and  are  not  unfrequently  seen  on  the 
tree  at  the  same  time,  in  two  or  three  stages  of  growth.  A 
work  has  recently  been  published  at  Paris,  edited  by  Messrs. 
Risso  and  Poiteau,  which  contains  engravings  and  descrip- 
tions of  one  hundred  and  sixty-nine  varieties.  They  are 
arranged  as  sweet  Oranges,  of  which  they  describe  42  sorts  ; 
bitter  and  sour  Oranges,  32  sorts  ;  Bergamots,  5  sorts  ; 
Limes,  8  sorts  ;  Shaddocks,  6  sorts  ;  Lumes,  12  sorts  ; 
Lemons,  46  sorts;  Citrons,  17  sorts. 

All  the  species  of  Citrus  endure  the  open  air  at  Nice, 
Genoa,  and  Naples ;  but  at  Florence  and  Milan,  and  often 
at  Rome,  they  require  protection  during  the  Winter,  and  are 
generally  planted  in  conservatories  and  sheds.  In  England, 
these  trees  have  been  cultivated  since  1629;  they  are  gene- 
rally planted  in  conservatories.  Loudon  says  that  in  the 
south  of  Devonshire,  and  particularly  at  Saltcombe,  may  be 
seen,  in  a  few  gardens,  Orange  trees  that  have  withstood  the 
Winter  in  the  open  air  upwards  of  a  hundred  years.  The 
fruit  is  as  large  and  fine  as  any  from  Portugal.  Trees  raised 
from  seed,  and  inoculated  on  the  spot,  are  found  to  bear  the 
cold  better  than  trees  imported. 

At  Nuueham,  near  Oxford,  are  some  fine  old  trees,  planted 
under  a  moveable  case,  sheltered  by  a  north  wall.  In 
Summer,  the  case  is  removed,  and  the  ground  turfed  over, 
so  that  the  whole  resembles  a  native  Orange  grove.  The 
author  of  this  work,  being  a  native  of  Abingdon,  which  is 
within  three  miles  of  the  Earl  of  Harcourt's  estate,  Jias  ha£ 
frequent  opportunities  of  tasting  the  fruit,  which  he  believes 
to  be  equal  to  that  of  warmer  climates.  At  Woodhall,  near 
Hamilton,  trees  of  all  the  species  of  Citrus  are  trained 
against  the  back  walls  of  forcing-houses,  and  produce  large 
crops  of  fruit. 

Any  of  the  varieties  of  the  Orange,  Lemon,  Lime  Shad- 
dock, Citron,  &c.,  may  be  grafted  or  budded  on  stocks  of 
the  common  Orange,  or  Lemon  ;  but  the  seeds  of  Shaddocks 
and  Citrons  produce  the  strongest  stocks;  and  on  these  may 
be  engrafted  such  kinds  as  may  be  needed  for  a  conservatory. 
The  most  suitable  time  for  budding  is  July  and  August  ; 


316  PEAOH.. 

§ 

but  this  operation  may  be  performed  at  any  time  when  the 
sap  is  in  motion.  The  directions  for  the  management  of 
greenhouse  plants,  apply  also  to  this  family  of  plants,  to 
which  I  refer  my  readers.  A  friend  of  mine,  who  is  a  native 
of  Rouen,  in  Normandy,  informs  me,  that  a  Mr.  Valee,  of 
that  city,  succeeds  in  clearing  about  twelve  thousand 
francs  per  annum  from  the  flowers  of  Orange  trees,  which 
are  distilled  for  essences,  &c. 


PEACHo 

PECKER.     Amygdalus  Persica. 

IT  is  generally  considered  that  the  Peach  is  of  PersiaB 
origin.  In  Medea,  it  is  deemed  unwholesome  ;  but  when 
planted' in  Egypt,  becomes  pulpy,  delicious,  and  salubrious. 
It  has  been  cultivated,  time  immemorial,  in  most  parts  of 
Asia  ;  when  it  was  introduced  into  Greece,  is  uncertain. 
The  best  Peaches  in  Europe  are  supposed  to  be  grown  in 
Italy,  on  standards. 

The  list  of  Peaches  in  the  London  Catalogue,  contains 
two  hundred  and  twenty -four  names,  fifty  of  which  are 
denominated  American  Peaches.  Several  attempts  have 
been  made  to  class  the  varieties  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines 
by  the  leaf  and  flower,  as  well  as  the  fruit.  Mr.  Robertson, 
a  nurseryman  at  Kilkenny,  has  founded  his  arrangement 
on  the  glands  of  the  leaves ;  and  Mr.  George  Lindley,  of 
London,  has,  in  a  peculiarly  distinct  manner,  arranged  no 
fewer  than  one  hundred  and  fifty-five  sorts  of  Peaches  and; 
Nectarines  in  well-defined  divisions  and  sections.  There 
are  various  instances  on  record,  (Hort.  Trans,  vol.  1,  p.  103,) 
of  both  fruits  growing  on  the  same  tree,  even  on  the  same 
branch ;  and  one  case  has  occurred  of  a  single  fruit 
partaking  of  the  nature  of  both.  The  French  consider  them, 
as  one  fruit,  arranging  them  in  four  divisions ;  the  Peches, 
or  free-stone  Peaches;  the  Peches  Usses,  or  free-stone 
Nectarines,  or  free-stone  Peaches ;  the  Pavies,  or  cling- 


PE1CH. 

stone  Peaches  ;  and  the  Brognons,  or  Nectarines,  or  cling- 
stone  smooth  Peaches. 

Although  this  fruit  will  thrive  in  any  sweet,  pulverized 
soil  that  is  properly  prepared,  a  rich  sandy  loam  is  the  most 
suitable.  Next  to  the  selection  and  preparation  of  a  suitable 
soil,  a  choice  of  good  healthy  trees  is  of  the  utmost  impor- 
tance. The  seeds  for  stocks  should  be  selected  from  the 
vigorous-growing  young,  or  mkldle-aged  healthy  trees  ;  and 
the  buds  should  be  taken  from  some  of  the  choicest  fruit- 
bearing  trees  that  can  be  found.  Let  the  stocks  be  fairly 
tested  before  they  are  budded,  and  if  any  infection  exist  in 
the  stocks,  or  in  the  vicinity  of  where  the  choice  of  buds 
may  fall,  reject  them,  if  you  wish  to  rear  a  healthy  progeny  ; 
as  more  depends  on  these  particular  points  than  many  are 
aware  of. 

In  this  country,  the  Peach  is  generally  budded  on  stocks 
of  its  own  kind  ;  but  in  England  it  is  often  budded  on 
damask  Plum  stocks,  and  some  of  the  more  delicate  sorts 
on  Apricot  stocks,  or  old  Apricot  trees  cut  down :  or  on 
seedling  Peaches,  Almonds  or  Nectarines.  (See  article 
Nectarine.  (Cobbett  says,  "  there  are  thousands  of  Peach 
trees  in  England  and  France  that  are  fifty  years  old,  and 
that  are  still  in  vigorous  fruitfulness."  He  attributes  the 
swift  decay  of  the  Peach  tree  here  to  their  being  grafted  on 
stocks  of  their  kind." 

Mr.  Michael  Floy,  of  the  Harlaem  Nursery,  in  a  note, 
page  364  of  the  American  edition  of  Lindley's  Guide  to  the 
Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden,  edited  by  him,  makes  the  fol- 
lowing observations  on  this  subject,  which  he  says  are  the 
results  of  thirty  years'  experience  as  a  nurseryman  in  the 
vicinity  of  New- York  :  — 

"  In  this  country  Peaches  are  generally  budded  on  Peach 
stocks.  Their  growth  is  very  rapid,  and  they  will  form  a 
tree  large  enough  to  transplant  from  the  nursery,  the  first 
and  second  year  after  budding;  but  notwithstanding  the 
rapid  growth  of  our  Peaches,  and  their  coming  to  maturity 
so  early,  with  but  little  care  and  trouble,  it  must  at  the  same 
time  be  admitted  that  they  too  often  come  to  decay  with 
almost  the  same  celerity.  A  question  here  will  naturally 

27* 


318  PEACH. 

arise  on  this  subject,  what  can  be  done  to  remedy  this  ?  I 
answer,  first,  I  think  the  Peach  stock  is  defective  ;  it  is  not 
sufficiently  strong  and  lasting  to  make  a  permanent  tree  ; 
the  roots  are  soft  and  delicate,  very  liable  to  rot  in  cold 
heavy  ground,  particularly  if  suffered  to  stand  in  a  sod,  or 
where  the  ground  is  not  kept  clean,  dry,  and  manured  every 
season.  Secondly  >  Supposing  that  the  trees  are  planted  in 
a  warm,  free  soil,  (which  is  the  proper  soil  for  the  Peach,) 
they  are  liable  to  the  attacks  of  the  worm,  which  eats  into 
their  roots,  and  barks  the  trees  all  round,  until  they  conv 
pletely  destroy  them.  No  better  method  of  destroying  these 
worms  has  been  discovered,  than  simply  digging  round  the 
trees,  and  examining  the  infested  plants,  and  where  gum  is 
seen  oozing  out,  there  the  worm  may  generally  be  found  and 
destroyed." 

"  I  think  an  effectual  remedy  against  this  intruder  may  be 
found',  by  budding  Peaches  and  Nectarines  on  the  common 
bitter  ALMOND  STOCK.  The  worm  does  not  like  this  stock. 
Peaches  will  take  on  it,  and  grow  nearly  as  free  as  on  the 
common  Peach  stock.  Thirdly,  The  Peach  stock  causes 
the  Peaches  and  Nectarines  to  grow  too  rapidly,  making, 
very  strong  shoots,  these  producing  secondary  or  lateral 
shoots;  and  the  fruit  of  the  following  Summer  is  produced 
on  the  top  of  these  lateral  shoots,  instead  of  being  produced 
on  the  principal  or  first  shoots;  this  causes  naked  wood  at 
the  bottom,  and  a  straggling  unsightly  tree,  whose  branches 
being  heavy  at  the  top  with  the  fruit,  are  broken  down  by 
high  winds.  Fourthly,  In  addition  to  all  this,  the  trees  are 
of  late  years  subject  to  what  has  been  deemed  a  disease 
called  the  yellows,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  trees 
having  a  yellow  and  sickly  appearance.  Much  curious 
philosophy  has  been  spent  on  this  subject  without  arriving 
at  any  satisfactory  conclusion." 

Mr.  Floy,  after  discovering  that  the  Almond  stock  is 
susceptible  of  injury  from  our  Northern  Winters  in  extreme 
cold  weather,  further  recommends  the  Plum  Stock  in  cold 
latitudes,  and  the  Almond  for  our  Southern  States — hear 
him  : — 

**  The  Plum  stock  is  undoubtedly  the  best  for  Peache* 


PBACH.  ,  319' 

and  Nectarines  in  the  Northern  and  Eastern  States,  but 
especially  for  open  dwarfs  or  espaliers,  for  which  I  give  the 
following  reasons  -.—First,  The  Plum  stock  prevents  the 
too  rapid  growth  of  the  shoots,  and  causes  the  principals  to 
bear  the  fruit  the  following  season,  instead  of  producing 
lateral  shoots  the  same  season,  and  causing  the  tree  to  be 
more  dwarf;  the  branches  strong  and  fruitful  to  the  bottom 
of  the  shoot,  thereby  having  more  fruit  in:  a  smaller 
compass.  Secondly,  It  makes  harder  and  less  pithy  wood}. 
and  enables  it  the  belter  to  withstand  the  cold ;  and  this 
may  be  easily  proved  by  cutting  the  branches  of  each — the 
shoot  on  the  Plum  stock  will  be  twice  as  hard  and  firm  as 
the  one  on  the  Peach  stock;  but  Thirdly,  and  the  most 
important  reason  is,  that  the  Plum  stock  ceases  to  send  up 
its  sap  early  in  Autumn,  causing  the  Peach  to  perfect  its 
wood  before  the  cold  weather  sets  in." 


As  the  failure  of  this  fruit  of  late  years  has  elicited  consi- 
derable discussion  and  observation,  which  increases  in 
interest  annually,  I  hereby  offer  an  exposition  of  my  views 
on  the  subject,  by  a  comparison  between  vegetable  and 
animal  matter,  which  I  humbly  conceive  bear  a  striking 
assimilation  to  each  other.  If  the  reader  should, deem  my 
arguments  as  visionary  or  speculative,  I  would  remind  him, 
that  the  grave  importance  of  the  subject  fully  justifies  this 
or  any  other  attempt  at  elucidation. 

Having  in  page  311  shown  the  error  of  deep  planting  all 
descriptions  of  trees  and  plants,  I  would  here  observe,  that 
a  tree  brought  into  a  state  of  disease,  by  which  the  circulation 
of  its  nutrimental  juices  is  impeded,  and  its  bark  injured, 
is  very  similarly  situated  to  a  timber  post  inserted  in  the 
soil ;  which  every  one  knows,  will  rot  between  earth  and  air 
however  sound  its  other  parts  may  be? 

In  venturing  a  comparison  between  vegetable  and  animal 
matter,  I  would  first  refer  the  reader  to  page  281,  where  I 
have  shown  that  a  Chestnut  tree  has  been  known  to  live 


PEACff. 

over  a  thousand  years  ;  and  -that  its  timber,  cut  in  proper 
season,  is  supposed  to  be  in  durability,  commensurate  with 
the  age  of  the  growiifg  tree.  It  is  also  recorded  in  history  ^ 
that  animal  subjects  preserved  on  the  Egyptian  principle, 
have  been  known  to  keep  as  long  as  the  most  durable 
timber;  while  daily  experience  shows,  that  corrupt  animal 
and  vegetable  substances,  not  only  become  a  prey  to  the 
most  noxious  insects  and  reptiles,  but  will  generate  them  in 
incalculable  numbers. 

-It  is  also  evident,  that  a  tree  deprived  of  its  functions  or 
means  of  growing  luxuriantly,  is  in  a  similar  situation  to  a 
diseased  animal.  If  disease  be  not  checked  before  the 
juices  of  the  tree  become  putrid,  it  will  not  only  die,  but 
will  contaminate  the  earth  in  which  it  is  planted,  to  the 
destruction  of  its  neighbouring  inmates  of  the  garden  or 
field.  All  experienced  nurserymen  admit  this  to  be  the  case 
with  diseased  Peach  trees,  and  some  have  actually  aban- 
doned their  Peach  orchards,  and  chosen  fresh  ground  for 
new  plantations. 

It  is  precisely  the  same  with  "smaller  vegetable  plants^ 
A  diseased  Cabbage,  for  instance,  by  its  excremental  and 
corrupt  juices  being  spent  in  the  ground,  will  render  the 
cultivation  of  the  same  or  allied  species  a  casualty;  and  daily 
observation  teacheth,  that  young  and  thrifty  plants  often 
fall  a  prey  to  worms  and  reptiles  which  were  generated  by 
a  previous  crop. 

It  is  moreover  evident,  that  all  those  enemies  of  the 
vegetable  family  feed  on  the  same  descriptions  of  vegetable 
matter  which  first  generated  them  ;  hence  the  Peach  insects 
feed  on  its  fruit  in  embryo,  as  well  as  in  a  state  at,  and  even 
beyond  perfection  ;  the  Cabbage  worms  prey  on  plants  of 
the  same  genera  or  species ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  but  the 
cotton  worms  prefer  the  same  description  of  vegetable  matter 
which  gave  them  birth,  and  that  when  these  insects  and 
reptiles  cannot  obtain  the  parts  which  are  the  most  palatable 
to  them,  or  congenial  to  their  nature,  they  will  feed  upon 
diseased  trees,  plants,  or  any  other  matter  which  contain 
similar  juices  or  nutriment.  I  again  repeat,  that  the  best 
security  against  their  depredations  is  health  and  soundness. 


PEACH.  331 

A  good  sound  healthy  tree,  planted  and  cultivated  upon 
correbt  principles,  may  be  justly  considered  as  invulnerable 
to  the  attacks  of  insects  and  reptiles,  as  any  species  of 
healthy  animal  creature  in  existence. 

As  I  have  been  more  familiar  with  the  cultivation  of 
vegetables  than  fruits,  I  would  state  further  my  views 
relative  to  the  Cabbage  tribe.  On  New- York  Island  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  City,  it  is  customary  with  gardeners  to  cut 
their  Cabbages  gradually  as  they  are  required  for  market, 
and  often  to  leave  their  roots  standing  ;  these  bj  some  are 
ploughed  under;  where  they  not  only  feed,  but  generate 
their  peculiar  species  of  insects.  Some  gardeners  take 
their  roots  and  leaves  to  the  cattle  yard  or  dung  heap,  and 
return  them  back  to  the  garden  the  ensuing  season  in  the 
shape  of  manure.  As  a  consequence  of  such  practice,  good 
Cabbages  are  very  seldom  obtained,  even  after  a  routine  of 
other  crops,  for  two  or  three  years. 

With  a  view  to  illustrate  the  evil  of  deep  planting,  I 
would  observe  furrier,  that  when  Cabbage  plants  a*«e 
transplanted  in  proper  seasons  and  on  good  fresh  soil,  they 
generally  prove  uniformly  good;  whereas  if  it  should 
happen,  as  it  sometimes  does,  for  want  of  suitable  weather, 
that  the  plants  cannot  be  transplanted  until  they  get  crooked 
and  overgrown,  so  as  to  require  deep  planting  to  support 
them  in  the  soil,  such  plants,  like  diseased  Peach  trees, 
decay  first  in  the  bark,  between  earth  and  air,  and  then  from 
being  deprived  of  a  natural  circulation  of  the  vegetable 
juices,  die,  and  discharge  their  putrid  matter  in  the  earth, 
to  the  destruction  of  such  other  plants  as  may  be  inserted 
in  their  stead.  I  have  frequently  known  a  land  of  Cabbage 
plants  filled  up  half  a  dozen  times,  and  the  crop  at  last 
scarcely  worth  gathering,  whereas  could  the  plants  have 
been  set  out  while  dwarfish,  and  inserted  their  proper  depth 
in  the  ground,  the  cultivator  would  have  been  rewarded  a 
hundred  fold. 

I  dislike  tautology,  but  cannot  avoid  repeating  my  humble 
opinion,  that  deep  planting  and  injudicious  culture  are  the 
causes  of  most  diseases  and  failures  of  fruit  trees  ;  and  in 
this  way  I  account  for  Peaches  being  less  plentiful 


322       . 

they  were,  when  left  almost  to  Nature,  which  was  the  case  I 
am  informed  in  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  That 
this  malpractice  in  horticulture  is  very  general,  the  most 
superficial  observer  may  discover,  by  comparing  the  thrifty 
growth  of  those  trees  scattered  by  Nature  in  our  highways 
and  byways  with  many  of  those  aided  by  the  art  of  man.  If 
any  of  my  readers  should  require  proof  of  my  assertions,  I 
can  show  them  from  the  window  of  the  room  where  this 
article  was  composed,  scores  of  living,  or  rather  dying, 
evidences  of  the  evil  of  deep  planting. 

All  the  varieties  of  the  Peach  produce  their  fruit  upon  the 
young  wood  of  a  year  old,  the  blossom  buds  rising  immedi- 
ately from  the  eyes  of  the  shoots.  The  same  shoots  seldom 
bear  after  the  first  year,  except  on  some  casual  small  spurs 
on  the  two  year's  wood,  which  is  not  to  be  counted  upon. 
Hence  the  trees  are  to  be  pruned  as  bearing  entirely  on  the 
shoots  of  the  preceding  year,  and  a  full  supply  of  regular 
grown  shoots  must  be  retained  for  successional  bearers. 
Cut  out  the  redundant  shoots,  and  all  decayed  and  dead 
wood,  and  reduce  some  of  the  former  bearers,  cutting  the 
most  naked  quite  away. 

A  Peach  Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the 
bud  is  established,  until  the  trees  are  three  or  four  years 
old,  which  may  be  placed  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  from 
each  other,  or  from  any  other  spreading  trees.  The  dwarf 
kinds  may  be  introduced  into  the  kitchen  garden,  and 
trained  against  fences,  as  directed  for  the  Apricot,  or  as 
espaliers,  or  dwarf  standards. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEACHES, 

FREESTONE    PEACHES. 

At-Ton.  An  excellent  variety,  originating  in  the  city  of  New-York; 
the  fruit  is  above  medium  size  ;  skin  pale  yellow,  with  red  cheek ;  flesh 
melting  and  pleasant  flavoured;  juice  sweet  and  plentiful;  ripe  the 
latter  end  of  August  and  early  in  September. 

BELLE  CHEVEREUSE,  Chevereuse  Hative,  Early-  Chevereuse.  Fruit 
medium  size,  oblong  form,  and  of  a  red  and  yellow  colour ;  ripens  in 
August;  the  pulp  is  rich,  juicy,  and  sugary;  tree  a  good  bearer,  and. 
the  fruit  highly  esteemed. 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEACHES.    '  323 

BELLE  DE  VITRT,  Admirable  Tardive,  Bellis.  A  large  fruit,  of  fine 
red  colour  next  the  sun,  on  the  opposite  side  a  yellowish  white  ;  flesh 
white,  stained  wTith  red  at  the  stone ;  firm,  juicy,  sweet,  vinous  and  ex- 
cellent; ripe  early  in  September. 

BELLEGARDE,  Galande,  Fiolette  Native,  Noire  de  Mon'.reuU.  The 
tree  is  vigorous  and  productive ;  fruit  above  medium  size,  globular ; 
skin  greenish  yellow,  and  on  the  sunny  side  rich  deep  red,  with  dark 
purple  streaks ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  very  melting,  saccharine  and  juicy  ; 
a  first-rate  fruit,  early  in  September. 

BREVOORT'S  SEEDLING  MELTER.  A  superior  peach,  raised  by  Henry 
Brevoort,  Esq.  of  New-York;  skin  of  a  dingy  white  colour,  with  red 
cheek;  flesh  white,  firm,  rich,  and  sugary;  ripe  by  the 'middle  of 
August. 

DOUBLE  MOXTAGNE,  Sion,  Early  Double  Mountain.  A  beautiful  and 
excellent  peach  of  middle  size;  skin  greenish  white,  but  soft  red,  mar- 
bled with  a  deeper  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  white  and  melting ;  juice 
plentiful  and  highly  flavoured ;  ripe  in  August. 

GREEN  NUTMFG,  Ear'y  Anne,  Avant  Blanche.  This  variety  is  said  to 
have  originated  in  Berkshire,  England.  The  fruit  is  small ;  its  colour 
yellowish  green;  its  pulp  melting,  juicy,  of  very  pleasant  flarour,  and 
ripens  early  in  August  Murray's  Early  Anne  is  a  variety  raised  from 
the  seed  of  this. 

EARLY  ORAXGE,  Yellow  Fare  Ripe,  Yellow  Mulacotan,  Rare  Ripe 
Early  Yellow.  Fruit  under  a  medium  size,  inclining  to  the  oval  shape, 
apex  full,  with  a  small  tip  ;  skin  greenish  yellow ;  flesh  a  fine  yellow, 
juice  rich  and  sweet,  but  not  plentiful;  ripe  in  August.  There  are 
several  varieties  under  the  same  name,  some  of  which  are  inferior  to 
the  true  Orange  Peach. 

EARLY  ROYAL  GEORGE.  A  superior  variety,  of  medium  size,  and 
rather  globular  form ;  skin  yellow,  with  red  cheek;  flesh  melting  and 
delicious ;  in  August.  There  are  several  varieties  cultivated  under 
this  name,  differently  described. 

EMPEROR  OF  RUSSIA,  Serrated  Leaf,  New  Cut-Leaved  Unique.  The 
fruit  of  this  species  is  deeply  cleft,  one  half  of  it  projecting  considerably 
beyond  the  other ;  the  skin  is  downy,  of  a  brownish  yellow  and  red 
colour;  flesh  melting;  juice  sweet  and  delicious;  towards  the  end  of 
August.  This  sort  was  found  by  Mr.  Floy,  in  New  Jersey,  1809,  and 
all  the  stones  of  this  fruit  are  said  to  produce  pknts  with  jagged  leaves. 

FORD'S  SEEDLIXG.  A  middle  sized  peach  of  a  beautiful  pale  rose 
colour,  marbled  with  bright  red;  flesh  yellowish  green  quite  to  the 
stone  from  which  it  separates  ;  juice  plentiful,  and  of  a  rich  poignant 
flavour  ;  in  August  and  September. 

GEORGE  THE  FOURTH.  An  excellent  peach,  of  medium  size  and 
globular  shape;  of  pale  yellow  colour  in  the  shade,  and  dark  red  next 
the  sun ;  flesh  yellow,  but  red  at  the  stone  from  which  it  separates ;  a 
fruit  of  very  superior  flavour  when  at  maturity,  which  is  early  in  Sep- 
tember ;  it  originated  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Gill,  Broad-street,  New-York. 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PEACHES, 

GROSSE  MIGNON,  Vehutee  deMerlet,  GittntcoocTs  Royal  George,  Largi, 
French  Mignon,  Vlneuse.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  and  delicious 
varieties  in  cultivation.  The  fruit  is  large,  of  a  beautiful  red  or  rose 
^colour,  and  greenish  yellow  ;  pulp  tender,  juicy  and  high  flavoured 
when  in  perfection,  which  is  early  in  September. 

HEATH  FREESTONE,  Kenrick's  heath.  This  variety  was  first  obtained 
from  the  late  General  Heath,  of  Roxbury,  near  Boston.  The  fruit  is 
very  large,  oblong  and  beautiful,  frequently  weighing  half  a  pound ; 
colour  pale  yellowish  green,  with  crimson  or  violet  next  the  sun; -its 
-flesh  is  melting,  juicy,  rich,  vinous,  agreeably  acid,  and  good ;  ripens 
late  in  September  and  October. 

HOFFMAN'S  POUND,  Morrison's  Pound.  This  fruit  is  by  some  called 
the  Morrissania,  from  its  having  been  first  obtained  by  Mr.  Floy,  from 
Governeur  M-orris ;  but  it  originated  -with  Martin  Hoffman,  Esq. 
of  New-York.  The  fruit  is  very  large  ;  skin  brownish  white  and  red ; 
flesh  yellow,  firm,  very  juicy  and  delicious,  parting  from  the  stone  ; 
.greatly  esteemed  from  its  ripening  late,  in  September  and  October. 

LATE  ADMIRABLE,  Royale,  Royal,  Sourdine,  Fruit  large,  roundish, 
inclining  to  oblong  ;  sature  deeply  impressed  along  one  side,  having  the 
flesh  swelling  boldly  and  equally  on  both  sides,  with  a  slight  impression 
on  the  summit ;  skin  downy,  of  pale  green  colour,  streaked  with  dull 
tawny  red  ;  flesh  white,  delicate,  melting,  juicy  and  high  flavoured ;  a 
magnificent  peach,  ripening  in  September.  Mr.  Prince  has  the  Teton 
de  Venus  under  this  head  as  a  synonyme ;  but  it  is  generally  considered 
a  distinct  variety. 

MALTA,  Peche  Matte,  Belle  de  Paris,  Matte  de  Normandie,  Italian 
Peach.  Fruit  above  the  medium  size  ;  colour  pale  yellowish  green, 
marbled  with  purplish  red ;  flesh  yellow,_jr,icy,  rich,  vinous,  and  of 
superior  flavour;  ripens  at  the  end  of  August. 

MADELEINE  DE  COURSON,  Madeleine  Rouge,  Rouge  Paysanne,  Red 
Magdalen  of  Miller.  An  excellent  fruit,  of  large  size,  and  fine  yellow 
and  red  colour ;  ripens  at  the  end  of  August;  flesh  firm,  white,  but  red 
at  the  ttone ;  sugary  and  very  rich 

MAMMOTH,  Saarte  Mout,  or  Aunt  Sarah's  Peach.  A  large  variety 
cultivated  in  New-York  under  the  latter  name  in  the  eighteenth  century  t 
by  H.  Brevoort;  its  s-kin  is  pale  green,  with  a  brownish  cast  on  the 
exposed  side  ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  sweet  and  rich,  separating  freely 
from  the  stone ;  early  in  September. 

MONSTROUS  LEMON,  Largest  Lemon.  This  variety  was  first  discov- 
ered in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Tiebout,  now  Union  Place  ;  the  fruit  is  of  the 
largest  size,  and  in  the  gardens  of  two  persons  in  New-York,  has 
weighed  seventeen  ounces,  as  stated  by  Mr.  Prince.  He  says  the  tree 
does  not  bear  well,  unless  the  situation  is  a  sheltered  one  ;  the  fruit  is 
late  in  ripening. 

MORRIS'S  RED  FREESTONE,  Red  Rare  Ripe.  Fruit  nearly  round,  of 
iarge  size,  apex  a  little  sunken ;  skin  greenish  yellow,  with  red  cheek ; 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEACHES.  325 

flesh  delicious  and  melting;  a  first-rate  variety;  ripe  towards  the  end 
of  August. 

MORRIS'S  WHITE  FREESTONE,  White  Rare  Ripe,  Luscious  White  Rare 
Ripe,  Philadelphia  Freestone.  Fruit  large,  and  inclining  to  the  oval 
form,  sature  even,  but  not  deep ;  apex  a  little  sunken  ;  skin  white  or 
rather  yellowish ;  flesh  white,  juicy,  rich  and  sweet ;  ripe  in  September. 
NEIL'S  EARLY  PURPLE,  Early  Purp'e  of  Miller,  Johnson's  Purple 
Avant,  Padley's  Early  Purple,  Veritable  Pourprec  Hativc,  Peche  du  Vin. 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  of  peaches ;  of  medium  size ;  skin  yellow, 
but  on  the  sunny  side  of  a  fine  deep  red  and  purplish  colour  ;  it  ripens 
by  the  middle  of  August ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  with  a  rich  vinous  flavour ; 
an  excellent  fruit 

NEW  ROYAL  CHAKLOTPE.  Queen  Charlotte,  New  Early  Purple,  Kew 
Early  Purple.  A  delicious  peach,  rather  above  medium  size  ;  skin  pale 
greenish  white,  with  deep  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  greenish  white,  rich 
and  agreeable ;  ripe  in  August. 

NOBLESSE,  Mellish's  Favourite.  The  tree  is  of  a  vigorous  growth, 
and  very  productive  ;  fruit  large,  somewhat  oval ;  of  a  pale  red  colour, 
marbled  with  different  shades ;  pulp  juicy,  rich,  and  melting  when  at 
maturity,  which  is  in  August  and  September. 

PRESIDENT.  This  variety  originated  at  Bedford,  on  Long  Island. 
It  is  a  rich,  melting,  juicy  fruit,  of  large  size,  roundish,  with  a  shallow 
sature  ;  skin  very  downy,  dull  red  next  the  sun,  pale  yellowish  green 
in  the  shade ;  the  surface  covered  with  small  red  dots ;  a  first-rate  peach  ; 
ripe  in  September. 

RED  CHEEK  MALACATCJXE,  Yellow  Malacaton,  Albcrge  Incomparable, 
Lady  Gallutin  Probyn  Peach,  Hoggs1  Malacaton.  This  variety  origin- 
ated at  the  Flushing  Nursery;  the  fruit  is  of  large  size  and  oval  form  ; 
its  colour  is  yellow,  with  a  red  cheek  on  the  sunny  side ;  the  flesh  is 
also  yellow,  melting,  rich,  juicy  and  luscious.  There  is  another  variety 
of  this  fruit,  which  originated  with  Mr.  Polls,  of  New- York,  said  to  be 
very  productive,  and  of  excellent  quality;  ripens  in  September. 

ROYAL  KE.VSI.VQTO.V.  An  excellent  variety,  of  medium  size  ;  skin 
pale  greenish  yellow,  marbled  with  red ;  flesh  pale  yellow ;  juice  rich, 
and  of  a  highly  vinous  flavour  ;  ripe  in  August. 

SMOOTH-LEAVED  ROYAL  GEORGE.  This  is  considered  by  Lindley  as 
a  very  superior  variety  ;  fruit  above  the  middle  size,  globular,  depres- 
sed; skin  yellowish  white,  but  of  a  beautiful  red  or  carmine  colour 
next  the  sun ;  flesh  melting ;  juice  plentiful,  and  of  a  high  vinous  flavour ; 
early  in  September. 

SWEET  WATER,  Early  Sweet  Water.  This  variety  is  said  to  have 
originated  at  Flushing  ;  its  form  is  round,  and  its  colour  whitish  green, 
with  a  red  blush  at  maturity,  which  is  early  in  August ;  the  flesh  is  very 
tender,  melting,  rich  and  juicy. 

T.ETON  DE  VENUS.  There  are  two  or  three  varieties  bearing  this 
name ;  the  fruit  of  the  best  variety  is  large,  globular  ;  of  a  pale  yellowish 
green  colour,  marbled  with  red ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  but  red  at  the 
stone;  a  delicious  flavoured  peach;  ripe  in  September. 


326  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PEACHED 

VAN  ZANDT'S  SUPERB,  Waxen  Rare  Ripe.  This  variety  originated 
with  Mr.  Van  Zandt,  of  Flushing ;  its  form  is  oval ;  its  skin  smooth,, 
somewhat  mottled,  and  of  a  beautiful  waxen  appearance ;  flesh  melting, 
and  of  excellent  flavour ;  in  August  and  September. 

WASHINGTON  PEACH,  Boyce  Peach.  A  first-rate  peach ;  colour  a 
pale  yellow  in  the  shade,  but  dark  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  very  juicy 
and  delicious  ;  ripens  towards  the  end  of  August.  A  peculiar  trait  in 
this  peach,  is  its  rapid  growth;  it  will,  while  ripening,  in  about  ten  days, 
nearly  double  its  ordinary  size,  weighing  over  half  a  pound. 

WHITE  BLOSSOM,  Willow  Peach,  White  Blossomed  Incomparable. 
This  variety  originated  on  Long  Island ;  the  fruit  is  perfectly  white,  of 
an  oval  form  and  handsome  appearance  ;  the  flesh  is  also  white,  melt- 
ing, juicy  and  pleasant ;  it  is  much  used  for  preserves  when  not  over 
ripe,  and  is  at  full  maturity  in  September. 

YELLOW  ADMIRABLE,  dbricote'c,  Admirable  Jaune,  Pcche  D' Orange, 
Grosse  Jaune,  Peche  de  Burai,  Sandalie,  Hermaphrodite,  Apricot  Peach. 
The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  large  ;  yellow  white  immature,  but  laved 
with  red  when  ripe  ;  flesh  firm,  yellow ;  flavour  similar  to  the  apricot ; 
ripe  late  in  September. 

PAVIES,  OR  CLIXGSTOXE  PEACHES. 

CATHERINE.  Fruit  large,  round,  variable;  colour  a  beautiful  ret! 
next  the  sun,  marbled  and  dashed  with  darker  shades ;  pale  yellow  in 
the  shade ;  flesh  very  white,  tinged  with  yellow;  juice  abundant,  and  of 
very  rich  and  sweet  flavour ;  tr6e  a  good  bearer ;  its  fruit  ripe  in 
September. 

CONGRESS  CLINGSTONE.  A  fine  large  round  peach  ;  skin  yellowish 
white,  marbled  with  red  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  of  delicious  flavour  ; 
in  September. 

EARLY  NEWIXGTOS,  Smith's  Ncicington,  New-York  Early  Newington. 
A  much  esteemed  fruit ;  its  colour  in  the  shade  is  white,  but  next  the 
sun  red;  its  form  is  globular  :  its  flesh  is  juicy,  rich,  and  high  flavoured. 
The  tree  is  productive,  and  the  fruit  matures  in  August. 

HRATU,  HEATH  CLINGSTONE,  Late  Heath,  Late  October.  Mr.  Prince 
says,  that  the  original  tree  of  this  variety  was  discovered  growing  wild 
on  the  farm  of  the  late  Judge  Willet,  of  Flushing,  and  took  its  name 
from  its  being  found  in  a  barren  field.  The  fruit  is  very  large,  of  oval 
or  oblong  form  ;  the  skin  is  downy,  nearly  all  white  ;  the  flesh  is  pecu- 
liarly rich  and  highly  flavoured,  tender,  melting,  and  juicy.  There  is 
another  variety  mentioned  by  Mr.  Kenrick,  and  called  by  the  same 
name,  said  to  have  been  raised  from  a  stone  brought  by  Mr.  Heath 
from^the  Mediterranean. 

INCOMPARABLE,  Pavie  Admirable.  The  fruit  of  this  esteemed  variety 
is  large  and  roundish  ;  the  skin  pale  yellow  colour,  shaded  with  scarlet 
or  deep  crimson  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  pale  yellow,  juice^sugary  and  well 
flavoured ;  ripe  in  September- 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEACHES.'  327 

LEMON  CLINGSTONE,  Kennedy's  Carolina,  Pine  Apple  Clingstont, 
Hoytcs  Lemon  Clingstone,  Lemon  Largest,  Large  Yellow  Pine  Apple. 
This  fruit  is  »f  large  size  and  oval  shape ;  yellow  in  the  shade,  but 
bright  red  next  the  sun ;  it  resembles  a  lemon,  having  a  nipple  at  the 
apex ;  some  have  weighed  twelve  ounces ;  its  flesh  is  firm,  and  is  at 
maturity  in  New-York  by  the  end  of  September. 

MONSTROUS  PAVIB  OF  POMPONNE,  Gros  Molecoton,  Gros  Persiqw, 
Rouge.  Pavie  Monttreux,  Panic,  Cornu.  Fruit  very  large,  roundish, 
with  an  obtuse  nipple  ;  skin  downy,  of  a  fine  red  and  greenish  white 
colour;  flesh" white,  deep  red  at  the  stone,  juicy  and  vinous,  excellent 
for.  preserving  ;  in  October. 

NEW- YORK  WHITE  CLINGSTONE,  Williams' s  New-York.  Fruit  large, 
round,  with  a  pointed  tipex;  skin  white,  tinged  with  rose  j  flesh  yellow, 
fuelling  or  soft,  but  adhering  closely  to  the  stone  ;  juice  very  plentiful, 
sweet,  luscious  and  high  flavoured.  Ripe  in  September. 

OLD  MIXON  CLINGSTONE.  Of  all  clingstone  peaches,  this  is  consi- 
dered the  most  delicious ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  with  a  bright  red  cheek, 
marbled ;  flesh  red  at  the  stone,  rich,  juicy,  sweet  and  high  flavoured ; 
the  fruit  ripens  gradually  in  September.  This  variety  is  cultivated  in 
Massachusetts  under  the  above  name,  but  the  tree  and  fruit  are  so 
similar  to  the  Old  Newington,  as  to  render  it  doubtful  whether  it  is  a 
distinct  variety. 

OLD  NEWINGTOST,  Newington.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  large,  rather 
globular,  of  a  fine  bright  red  and  pale  yeilow  colour,  marbled  with 
dashes  and  streaks  of  a  deeper  colour;  the  flesh  is  yellowish  white> 
•but  red  at  the  stone ;  also  juicy,  rich,  sweet,  and  well  flavoured ;  the  tree 
is  very  productive,  in  September. 

PAVIE  MADELEINE,  Pavic  Blanc,  Melecoton,  Myrecoton,  Merlicoton) 
Persique  a  Gros-Fruit  Blanc.  The  fruit  of  this  variety  is  of  medium 
size,  somewhat  broadly  globular ;  skin  pale  yellowish  white  and  mar- 
bled red;  flesh  yellowish  white  to  the  stone;  juice  sugary  and  of  au 
agreeable  flavour ;  towards  the  end  of  August  and  in  September. 


PEAR, 

POIRIER.     Pyrus. 

THE  Pear  tree,  in  its  wild  state,  is  thorny,  with  upright 
branches,  tending  to  the  pyramidal  form,  in  which  it  differs 
materially  from  the  Apple  tree.  The  twigs,  or  sprays, 
hang  down  ;  the  leaves  are  elliptical,  obtuse,  serrate ;  the 
flowers  in  terminating,  villose  corymbs,  produced  from  wood 
$f  the  preceding  year,  or  from  buds  gradually  formed  on  the 


328  PEAR. 

several  years'  growth,  on  the  extremities  of  very  short 
protruding  shoots,  technically  called  spurs.  It  is  found  in 
a  wild  state  in  England,  and  abundantly  in  France  and 
Germany,  as  well  as  in  other  parts  of  Europe,  not  excepting 
Russia,  as  far  North  as  lat.  51.  It  grows  in  almost  any 
soil.  The  cultivated  tree  differs  from  the  Apple,  not  only 
in  having  a  tendency  to  the  pyramidal  form,  but  also  in 
being  more  apt  to  send  out  tap  roots  ;  it  being,  as  a  seed- 
ling plant,  longer  (generally  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  years) 
in  coming  into  bearing ;  and  when  on  its  own  root,  or 
grafted  on  a  wild  Pear  stock,  of  being  much  longer  Ir.ed. 
In  a  dry  soil,  it  will  exist  for  centuries,  and  still  keep  its 
health,  productiveness,  and  vigour.  There  are  fewer  good 
sorts  of  Pears,  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  current 
varieties  than  Apples.  The  Romans  had  thirty-six  varieties 
in  Pliny's  time:  there  are  now  several  hundreds  in  the 
French  and  British  nurseries;  the  London  Horticultural 
Catalogue  contains  the  names  of  six  hundred  and  twenty- 
%wa.  Professor  Van  Monsr  of  Brussels,  and  M.  Duquessie* 
of  Mons,  fruited  about  eight  thousand  seedling  Pears,  from 
which  they  obtained  nearly  eight  hundred  sorts  worth  culti- 
vating, (Neil's  Hort.  Jour.)  The  varieties  are  divided  by 
the  French  into  different  classes  of  fruits,  which  are 
designated  as  Beurrees,  Crevers,  Poiree,  <fcc. 

CRITERION  OF  A  GOOD  PEAR. — Dessert  Pears  are  charac- 
terized by  a  sugary  aromatic  juice,  with  the  pulp  soft  and 
sub-liquid,  or  melting,  as  in  the  Beurrees,  or  Butter  Pears  ; 
or  of  a  firm  and  crisp  consistence,  or  breaking  as  in  the 
Winter  Bergamots.  Kitchen  Pears  should  be  of  a  large  size, 
with  the  flesh  firm,  neither  breaking  nor  melting,  and 
rather  austere  than  sweet.  Perry  Pears  may  be  either  large 
or  small ;  but  the  more  austere  the  taste,  the  better  will  be 
the  liquor ;  excellent  perry  is  made  from  the  wild  Pear. 

Pear  trees  are  propagated  by  grafting  in  the  Spring,  or 
budding  late  in  the  Summer,  and  also  by  seed  taken  from 
the  best  sorts  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  new  varieties.  In 
raising  Pear  stocks,  the  wild  Pear  is  preferred  in  Europe,  as 
being  calculated  to  produce  plants  more  hardy  and  durable 
than  the  cultivated  sorts  ;.  and  for  dwarfing  and  precocity, 
the  Quince  is  preferred* 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEARS.  329 

The  Pear  is  a  much  handsomer  upright  growing  tree 
than  the  Apple  ;  more  durable,  and  its  wood  hard  and 
valuable  for  the  turner  and  millwright;  ;but  its  blossoms 
being  white,  are  less  showy  than  those  of  the  Apple. 

A  Pear  Orchard  may  be  planted  at  any  time  after  the 
trees  are  two  years*  old  from  the  graft ;  and  as  trees  from 
young  stocks  will  not  come  into  full  bearing  until  ten  or 
twelve  years  old,  they  will  bear  removing  with  care  at  any 
time  within  that  period.  They  may  be  planted  at  from 
twenty  to  thirty-five  feet  distance  from  each  other,  according 
to  the  nature  of  tire  tree.  The  dwarf  varieties  may  be  planted 
in  the  kitchen  garden,  and  trained  either  as  espaliers  or 
dwarf  standards. 

Standard  Pear  trees  will  require  but  little  pruning  after 
the  heads  are  once  formed  ;  in  doing  which,  the  branches 
should  be  permitted  to  extend  on  all  sides  freely.  Several 
years  may  elapse  before  any  cross-placed,  very  irregular,  or 
crowded  branches,  require  pruning ;  yet  there  are  some 
kinds  whose  form  of  growth  resembles  the  Apple  ;  such 
will  need  frequent  pruning.  "  The  Pear  tree,"  Mr.  Phail 
says,  "  does  not  produce  blossoms  on  the  former  year's 
wood,  as  several  other  sorts  of  trees  do.  Its  blossom  buds 
are  formed  upon  spurs  growing  out  of  wood  over  one  year 
old,  and,  consequently,  projecting  spurs  all  over  the  tree 
must  be  left  for  that  purpose."  In  some  Pears,  Knight 
observes,  "  the  fruit  grows  only  on  the  inside  of  those 
branches  which  are  exposed  to  the  Sun  and  air;  in  others 
it  "occupies  every  part  of  the  tree."  Withering  says,  that 
"  the  French  make  perry,  or  poire,  from  the  fermented  juice 
of  the  Pear,  which  is  little  inferior  to  wine;  and  that  even 
the  bad  eating  kinds,  pared  and  dried  in  an  oven,  will  keep 
several  years  with  or  without  sugar. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEARS, 

SUMMER    FRUIT. 

DKAIBORH'B  SLEDLING.    Thisvariety  originated  in  the  garden  ofthe 
Hon.  H  A.  S.  Dearborn,  of  Roxbury,     The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth : 

28* 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEARS. 

fruit  of  medium  size,  rounded  at  the  crown,  and  regularly  diminishes 
in  a  parabolic  manner  to  the  stalk;  the  skin  is  smooth,  thin,  green, 
with  russet  spots;  at  maturity  it  turns  to  a  delicate  yellow ;  flesh  very 
melting,  and  of  the  finest  flavour;  in  August. 

GOVERNOR  STUYVESANT.  This  pear  took  its  name  from  its  having 
been  first  cultivated  at  Stuyvesant's  farm  on  New-York  Island.  The 
original  tree  is  upwards  of  200  years  old,  and  produces  fruit  in  August 
of  a  medium  size,  of  a  greenish  yellow  colour  ;  juicy,  sweet,  aromatic 
and  excellent. 

JARGONELLE,  Epargne,  Beau  Present,  Saint  Sampson,  Grosse  Cuisse 
Madame,  Saint  Lambert,  Poire  des  Tables  des  Princes.  Fruit  rather 
large,  oblong,  of  a  pale  green  colour,  a  little  marked  with  red ;  flesh 
melting,  juicy,  with  a  slightly  acid,  rich  and  agreeable  flavour.  It 
ripens  early  in  August,  is  one  of  the  most  productive  of  all  pears,  and 
the  very  best  in  its  season. 

JULIENNE  OF  COXE,  ItAftMdm  D'Ete,  Summer  Beurre,  Summer 
Doyenne,  Summer  St.  Michael,  so  called  near  Boston,  Bloodgood  Pear 
of  New*York.  Fruit  medium  size,  smooth,  bright  yellow  at  maturity, 
with  a  faint  blush  next  the  sun ;  form  rather  ovate,  tapering  towards 
the  stalk ;  flesh  perfectly  melting,  rich  and  juicy.  The  tree  bears  young, 
and  most  profusely,  and  matures  its  fruit  in  August  and  September. 

LONDON  SUGAR.  This  fruit  is  below  medium  size;  colour  greenish 
yellow,  tinged  with  brown;  form  turbinate,  narrowed  at  the  crown; 
flesh  tender,  melting,  saccharine,  of  a  rich  musky  flavour  ;  an  excel- 
lent early  fruit,  and  very  productive.  Ripe  in  July  and  August. 

MADELEINE,  Magdalene,  Citron  des  Carmes,  Early  Chaumontelle. 
This  pear  is  of  medium  size,  pale  yellow,  with  an  occasional  blush 
next  the  sun ;  flesh  white,  melting,  perfumed.  A  fine  old  fruit,  ripen- 
ing towards  the  end  of  July. 

PREMATURE;  A  new  pear,  about  the  size  of  the  Crawford,  but  more 
juicy  and  delicious,  and  remarkably  early ;  it  commands  a  good  price  in 
the  markets  of  Edinburgh,  Scotland,  and  is  reputed  a  most  superior 
early  fruit,  ripening  in  July  and  August. 

ROUSSELET  DE  RHEi>is,  Petit  Rousselet.  Fruit  small,  pyramidal, 
greenish  yellow  at  maturity,  but  brown  red  next  the  sun,  with  russetty 
spots  ;  flesh  half  beurre,  fine,  very  perfumed.  Good  to  put  in  brandy, 
and  to  dry  ;  in  August  and  September, 

SABII?E  o'ExE.  This  pear  is  of  pyramidal  form,  terminating  in  a 
round  blunt  point  at  the  stalk  ;  colour  yellow,  but  fine  scarlet  next  the 
sun;  the  whole  surface  smooth,  regular  and  polished;  flesh  white, 
melting,  juicy  and  highly  perfumed ;  the  tree  is  an  abundant  bearer,  and 
ripens  its  fruit  in  August 

SKINLESS  PEAR,  Poire  sans  Pcau,  Fleur  de  Guignes.  A  small  oblong 
psar ;  the  skin,  which  is  very  smooth  and  thin,  is  pale  green,  marbled 
with  red  and  yellow ;  flesh  crisp,  sweet,  and  of  pleasant  flavour;  the 
tree  is  very  prolific,  ripening  its  fruit  in  August. 

SUMMER  FRANCREAL,  Francrcal  d' Etc ,  Fondante,  France  Cancel,  Gros 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PEARS.'  33  t 

Micet  d'Ete.  Fruit  above  medium  size  ;  shape  oblong,  thickest  about 
one-third  from  the  eye  ;  skin  yellowish  green ;  flesh  melting,  rich  and 
excellent;  ripe  early  in  September. 

SUMMER  ROSE,  Thorny  Rose,  Epinc  Rose,  Poire  de  Rose,  JRosenbirne 
Kraft.  A  pear  of  medium  size,  in  form  resembling  an  apple  ;  the  skin 
is  dull  yellow,  spotted  with  russet,  and  marbled  with  red;  a  very  pro- 
ductive variety,  ripening  its  fruit  early  in  August. 

WILLIAMS'S  BONCHRETIEN,  Bartlet.  This  fruit  originated  with  a  Mr. 
Wheeler,  at  Aldermaston,  in  Berkshire,  England,  but  was  subsequently 
extensively  propagated  by  Mr.  Williams,  near  London — hence  its 
name.  The  fruit  is  large,  oblong ;  the  stalk  thick  and  fleshy,  an  inch 
long;  the  colour  at  maturity  yellow,  tinged  with  red;  flesh  whitish, 
very  melting,  and  delicate  ;  juice  perfumed,  sweet  and  abundant.  Tree 
very  productive,  and  fruit  ripe  by  the  end  of  August. 

WINDSOR,  Guise  Madame  of  the  French.  A  middle  sized  oblong 
pear ;  colour  greenish  yellow,  but  brownish  red  next  the  sun ;  half 
melting,  sweet,  a  little  musky,  rather  coarse,  but  a  good  dessert  fruit  in 
its  season;  ripe  by  the  end  of  August. 

AUTUMN    FRUIT. 

AOTUMV  BERGAMOT,  Common  Bergamot,  York  Bergamot.  Fruit  glo- 
bular, depressed,  the  skin  rough,  yellowish  green,  and  dull  brown; 
flesh  pale,  melting,  juicy,  sugary,  and  perfumed ;  ripe  in  September 
and  October.  This  variety  has  been  cultivated  in  England  from  the 
time  of  Julius  Caesar,  and  is  still  considered  a  first-rate  pear  in  its 
season. 

BEIXE  ET  BOXNB,  Schone  und  gute.  Fruit  very  large,  globular, 
depressed,  the  stalls  long;  skin  greenish  yellow,  but  next  the  «un 
yellow,  with  spots  of  russet;  flesh  white,  sweet,  exceeding  rich  and 
agreeably  perfumed.  The  tree  is  very  productive,  and  the  fruit  ripens 
in  September.  This  variety  has  been  cultivated  under  the  erroneous, 
names  of  Charles  (TAutriche,  Belle  De  Bruxelles  and  Bergamottc 
Crussanne,  which  are  distinct  fruits. 

BROWN  BEURRE,  Beurre  Rouge,  Beurre  d'Or,  Beurre  Doie,  Bcurre  du 
R-ri,  Beurre  £  Amboisc,  Isambcrt,  Red  Biterre.  Golden  Beurrc,  Poire 
d  Amboise.  This  was  formerly  considered  the  best  of  all  pears  in  its 
season.  Fruit  rather  large,  of  greenish  yellow,  and  dusky  red  colour, 
covered  with  thin  russet ;  flesh  melting,  buttery,  rich  and  excellent ;  at 
peifectionin  October  and  November. 

CHARLES  D'ACTRICHE,  Charles  of  Austria.  A  fine  and  beautiful  fruit, 
large,  three  and  a  half  inches  long,  and  three  inches  broad;  colour 
greenish  yellow,  with  brown  spots  and  partially  russetted  ;  flesh  white, 
melting,  juicy,  and  delicious.  Ripe  in  October,  aad  good  in  November. 

CAPIAUMOMT,  Beurre  de  Capiaumont.  This  variety  is  much  esteemed, 
in  the  vicinity  of  Boston.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  turbinate  ;  skin  yellow, 
tinged  with  fine  red  or  cinnamon;  flesh  yellowish,  melting,,  verj  richi 
and  high  flavoured  j  in  September  and  October. 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PEARS. 

DEVICES  D'ARDENPONT,  Dclices  d1  Hardcnpont  de  Toulouse.  Fruit 
above  medium  size;  oblong,  pyramidal ;  skin  yellow  at  maturity,  and 
partially  covered  with  a  thin  cinnamon  coloured  russet ;  flesh'  yellowish 
white,  nearly  melting;  juice  pleasant,  sweet  and  abundant;  in  October 
and  November. 

Dix  A  native  variety  originating  in  the  garden  of  Mr.  Dix,  in 
Boston;  fruit  large,  oblong;  skin  when  ripe,  yellow,  with  a  blush  of 
red;  flesh  melting,  juicy  and  rich  ;  in  October  and  November. 

DOYENNE  SANTELETE.  A  new,  fine,  handsome  Flemish  pear ;  fruit 
above  the  middle  size,  pyramidally  oblong ;  skin  pale  green,  speckled 
with  gray  russet;  flesh  white,  a  little  gritty,  but  tender;  juice  saccha- 
rine, with  a  slight  musky  perfume.  The  tree  is  hardy,  and  ripens  its 
fruit  early  in  October. 

DCTCHESS  OF  ANGOULEM.E,  Duchesse  d'Angouleme.  A  pear  of  first- 
rate  excellence.  Form  roundish,  oblong,  tapering  towards  the  stalk; 
skin  dull  yellow,  with  broad  russet  patches;  flesh  rich,  melting,  very 
juicy,  and  high  flavoured,  with  a  most  agreeable  perfume.  Specimens 
of  this  fruit  have  been  shown  in  England,  weighing  twenty -two  ounces. 
At  perfection  in  October  and  November. 

CANS  EL'S  BERGAMOT,  Broca's  Bergamot,  Ivcs's  Bergamot,  Bonne 
Rouge.  Fruit  varying  from  middle  size  to  large ;  ovate,  flattened  ; 
colour  dull  green,  slightly  red  next  the  sun ;  flesh  white,  melting,  sweet, 
rich  and  high  flavoured.  A  delicious  pear,  ripe  in  October  and  good 
till  Christmas. 

GOLDEN  BEURRK  OF  BILBO  A.  This  variety  was  imported  from  Bilboa, 
by  Mr.  Hooper,  of  Marblehead :  the  original  name  being  unknown. 
Fruit  of  medium  size,  oblong ;  colour  a  bright  golden  yellow,  with 
patches  of  russet  ;  perfectly  melting,  and  of  fine  flavour.  A  beautiful 
pear  tree,  a  great  bearer,  and  worthy  of  cultivation,  ripe  in  October. — 

GORE'S  HEATHCOT.  A  native  variety,  highly  esteemed  in  Massachu- 
setts. Fruit  of  medium  size ;  form  long ;  skin  of  a  uniformly  light 
yellow  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  and  high  flavoured.  The  growth  of  the 
tree  is  handsome  and  vigorous,  producing  abundant  crops  in  Septem- 
ber and  October. 

GREEX  SYLTANGE,  Sylvange  Vert,  Bcrgamotie  Sylvange.  A  most 
superior  pear,  of  medium  size,  skin  rough,  and  green,  speckled  with 
gray  or  black.  The  flesh  is  gree,nish  near  the  skin,  white  in  the  centre, 
soft,  saccharine  and  juicy.  Fruit  in  perfection  from  October  to  Christ- 
mas. The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  specimens  of  the  fruit  have  been 
known  to  weigh  thirteen  ounces. 

HACON'S  INCOMPARABLE,  Norfolk  Seedling.  Fruit  middle  sized,  of 
r/ale  yellow  colour,  mixed  with  green,  partially  covered  with  orange 
russet;  flesh  yellowish  white,  slightly  gritty,  but  very  tender,  juicy ; 
sweet  and  rich  ;  and  possessing  a  high  musky  and  perfumed  flavour. 
The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  and  the  fruit  excellent,  in  November  and 
December.  A  silver  medal  was  given  to  the,  originator  of  this  fruit,  as 
a  prize,  in  England,  1830, 


DESCRIPTIVE    LIST  OF  PEARS.*  333 

HARVARD.  L'Epergne.  This  variety  is  highly  prized  in  the  Boston 
markets;  fruit  above  medium  size;  oblong,  swollen  at  the  crown;  skin 
russ«tty  yellow,  tinged  with  red;  flesh  white,  juicy  and  melting;  in 
September  and  Octobe-. 

MARIE  LOUISE,  Fruit  oblong,  tapering  towards  both  ends ;  size 
varying  from  medium  to  large:  skin  nearly  smooth,  yellowish  green, 
and  cinnamon  coloured  russet ;  flesh  white,  melting,  juicy  and  rich.  It 
ripens  in  October  and  November,  and  is  an  excellent  fruit  in  its  season. 

MOOR  FOWL  EGG.  Fruit  rather  small,  globular,  ovate,  swollen  in  the 
middle;  skin  orange  brown  next  the  sun,  with  spots  of  russet;  flesh 
yellowish  white,  a  little  gritty,  but  tender  and  mellow,  juice  saccharine, 
a  little  perfumed.  This  is  a  hardy  Scotch  variety,  ripe  in  September 
and  good  in  October 

NAPOLEOX,  Medaille,  Sartcageon  Liart.  Fruit  large,  form  of  the 
Colmar ;  skin  smooth  ;  colour  bright  green,  but  at  maturity,  pale  green  ; 
flesh  very  melting,  with  an  unusual  abundance  of  rich  agreeable  juice. 
At  perfection  in  October  and  November. 

PRINCKSSE  OF  ORANGE,  Princess  d' Orange.  The  fruit  is  roundish  ; 
the  skin  bright  reddish  orange  russet;  flesh  yellowish  white,  sugary  and 
rich,  in  some  seasons  perfectly  melting,  but  occasionally  a  little  gritty. 
A  beautiful  pear,  and  of  good  quality  ;  in  October. 

SKCKL?,  New-York  Red  Cheek,  Red  Ch°ek  Seckle,  Sycle.  An  excellent 
native  fruit,  in  size  rather  small ;  colour  varying  from  yellowish  fc» 
brownish  russet,  but  brijht  red  next  the  sun,  flesh  meltinf,  spicy,  and 
of  a  most  extraordinary  rich  flavour.  This  fruit  grows  in  clusters,  in 
great  abundance,  and  is  at  perfection  in  September  and  October. 

SWAS'S  EGG.  Fruit  small,  of  a  oval,  turbinate  figure,  colour  yellow- 
ish green,  and  dull  russetty  brown ;  flesh  tender  and  melting,  with  a 
rich,  saccharine,  musky  flavour.  An  excellent  fruit,  ripe  in  October. 
The  tree  is  remarkably  tall,  upright  vigorous  and  productive. 

URBANISTE  The  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  pyramidally  ovate  ;  skin 
pale  green,  inclining  to  yellow,  with  green  streaks  ;  flesh  white,  but 
reddish  yellow  next  the  core  ;  it  is  quite  melting,  juicy,  and  very  sweet, 
with  a  little  perfume.  It  ripens  from  the  middle  of  September  to  No- 
vember. 

WILKI.VSON.  A  native  pear  from  Cumberland,  R.  I.  The  tree 
bears  young,  and  is  very  fruitful;  size  above  medium;  form  oblong; 
skin  yellow,  with  a  brownish  black ;  flesh  white,  juicy  and  melting ;  at 
perfection  in  October  and  November. 

WINTER    FRUIT. 

BEURRE  D'AREMBERS,  Beurre  d'Aremberl,  Due  d^Aremberg,  Poire 
d'Aremberg,  Beurre  Dcschumps,  Beurre  Ophelins  of  Dcschamps  The 
English  and  French  writers  speak  of  this  pear  as  one  of  the  best  in  cul- 
tivation. The  tree  is  a  great  bearer,  comes  early  into  cultivation,  and 
the  fruit  will  keep  till  March.  Fruit  large,  turbinate, ;  skin  of  a  delicate 


334  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PEARS. 

pale  green  dotted  with  russet,  which  becomes  of  a  deeper  yellow  at 
maturity;  flesh  whitish,  fine,  very  juicy,  perfectly  melting,  and  very 
extraordinary  rich,  sweet,  high  flavoured  and  excellent. 

BEURRE  DIEL,  Dicls  Butterbirne,  Dorothee  Royale,  Beurre  de  Yelle, 
Beurre  Royale,  Poire  de  Melon.  This  ranks  amongst  the  best  of  pears. 
The  tree  is  of  vigorous  growth  ;  fruit  when  in  perfectien,  four  inches 
long,  and  three  inches  broad;  the  skin  at  maturity  is  bright  orange, 
with  reddish  russet;  flesh  clear  white,  tender,  melting,  and  juicy,  and 
of  a  delicious  aromatic  flavour;  from  November  to  January. 

BKURRE  RANGE,  Beurre  Epine,  Hardenpont  de  Printemps.  This  is 
said  to  be  a  first-rate  pear.  The  tree  is  vigorous  and  a  good  bearer ; 
fruit  middle  sized,  oblong ;  skin  deep  green,  with  russetty  specks  ;  flesh 
green,  melting,  having  a  delicious  rich  flavour,  with  very  little  acid.  It 
shrivels  in  ripening,  but  will  keep  till  April. 

BKZY  VAET,  Bezy  de  Saint  Vaast.  Fruit  somewhat  the  shape  of  a 
Swan's  Egg,  but  larger;  skin  dull  green,  covered  with  russetty  spots; 
flesh  yellowish ;  perfectly  melting,  sweet  and  agreeably  perfumed ;  at 
perfection  in  November  and  December. 

CATILLAC.  Fruit  very  lar^e  rather  turbinate  ;  pale  yellow,  stained 
with  red  ;  flesh  firm  and  breaking  ;  its  flavour  astringent ;  an  excellent 
baking  pear ;  from  November  to  April. 

CH'UMONTBL,  Bezy  de  Chaumontflle,  Poire  de  Chaumontelle,  Beurre 
d'Hiver.  This  noble  old  variety  is  a  fruit  varying  in  size,  from  large  to 
very  large  ;  its  colour  at  maturity  yellow,  tinged  with  brownish  red  next 
the  sun ;  its  form  variable  ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  sweet,  musky,  excellent : 
in  season  from  November  to  February. 

COLMAR,  Poire  Mann",  Bergamotte  Tardive,  Incomparable.  This 
fruit  is  rather  large  ;  skin  smooth,  of  a  green  colour,  changing  to  a 
yellow  at  maturity  ;  form  pyramidal ;  flesh  melting,  juicy,  saccharine, 
and  of  excellent  flavour.  The  fruit  is  in  perfection  from  November  to 
February. 

EASTER  BEURRE,  Bergamotte  de  la  Pentecote,  Beurre  d'Hicer  de 
Bruxel'ts,  Doyenne  d'Hiver,  de  Biuxelles.  Bezi  Chaumontelle  Trcs  Gros. 
Of  all  the  late  keeping  pears,  this  is  considered  the  best  (for  England.) 
Fruit  large,  roundish,  oblong;  colour  green,  but  yellow  at  maturity, 
with  specks  of  russet  brown  ;  fle^h  yellowish  white,  perfectly  buttery 
and  melting,  also  extremely  high  flavoured  ;  it  is  eatable  in  November, 
and  will  keep  till  May:  it  is  a  most  profuse  bearer,  on  a  quince  stock. 

ECH  .SSKRY.  Bezyde  Chassery,  BezydeLandry,  Poire  dCEuf,  Ambrette, 
Tilton  of  New  Jersey.  Fruit  middle  size,  of  a  roundish  turbinate 
figure,  something  like  a  Citron,  or  the  Ambrette  ;  skin  smooth,  greenish 
yellow,  with  gray  specks;  flesh  melting,  juicy  and  delicious:  from 
December  to  March. 

GLOUT  MoRCEnU,  Gloux  Morceaux.  A  very  large  Belgic  variety,  of 
great  excellence  ;  fruit  of  ovalish  form,  pale  green  colour,  inclining  to 
yellow,  with  russetty  specks  and  blotches  ;  flesh  whitish,  firm,  very  juicy 
and  excellent ;  in  perfection  from  November  to  March. 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEARS.    -  335 

HOLLAND  BSRGAMOT,  Bergamotte  de  Holland,  D'Alencon,  dmoselle, 
Lord  Cheney's.  Fruit  very  large,  globular,  but  broadest  at  the  crown, 
flattened ;  of  greenish  yellow  colour,  marbled  with  russet ;  flesh  half 
breaking,  juicy,  and  high  flavoured.  It  keeps  till  May,  and  succeeds 
on  the  quince. 

LEWIS.  This  variety  originated  on  the  farm  of  Mr.  I.  Lewis,  of 
Roxbury,  Mass.  The  size  is  medium ;  form  somewhat  globular ;  skin 
when  ripe,  a  greenish  yellow;  the  flesh  is  white,  very  melting,  juicy 
and  excellent,  from  November  to  March.  The  tree  grows  quick,  and 
bears  abundance  of  fruit. 

LOUISE  BONNE,  Good  Louise  Avanchie.  A  large  pear,  somewhat 
oblong,  resembling  the  St .  Germain ;  skin  yellowish  green ;  f. esh  ex- 
tremely tender,  and  full  of  an  excellent  saccharine,  well  flavoured  juice. 
A  first-rate  fruit,  from  October  to  Christmas. 

NEWTOWN  VERGALEAU.  A  large  pear,  of  a  yellow  colour,  with  a 
very  short  stalk  ;  the  tree  grows  very  crooked  and  of  an  irregular  form, 
bending  by  the  weight  of  its  fruit,  \\hich  is  excellent  tto  preserve, 
or  for  bakinj.  Its  productiveness  renders  it  desirable  in  nn  orchard. 

PASSE  COLMAR,  Fohdante  de  Panisel,  Passe  Colmar  Gris  dit  Precel, 
Poire  Precel,  Passe  Colmar  Epineux,  Beurre  Colmar  Gris  dit  Precel, 
Beurre  d'Argenson,  Chapman^.  A  most  valuable  pear,  of  medium 
size,  conical,  flattened  next  the  eye ;  skin  at  maturity  yellowish,  sprink- 
led with  russet,  a  tinge  of  red  next  the  sun  ;  flesh  yellowish,  melting, 
juicy,  rich  and  excellent.  The  tree  is  a  good  bearer,  and  the  fruit  is  in 
perfection  from  November  to  February. 

POUND  PEAR,  Black  Pear  of  Worcester,  Parkinson's  Warden^  Grande, 
Monarque,  Livre,  Groote  Mogul,  Gros  Rattau  Gris,  Lore  Pear.  Fruit 
very  large,  of  a  roundish  turbinate  figure ;  skin  rough,  covered  with 
dull  russet ;  flesh  hard  and  coarse,  but  excellent  when  baked  or  stewed 
in  Winter.  Grafted  on  a  pear  stock.  The  tree  bears  so  abundantly, 
as  to  bend  like  a  weeping  willow. 

SAINT  GERMAIX,  Inconnue  de  la  Fare.  This  celebrated  ancient  fruit 
is  large,  of  a  green  colour,  covered  with  russet  spots  ;  at  maturity  a 
yellowish  cast;  its  flesh  very  melting,  juicy,  saccharine,  slightly  acid, 
and  delicious ;  it  ripens  in  November  aud  may  be  kept  till  March. 

TILLINGTOX.  A  fine  English  variety,  highly  esteemed  in  Massachu- 
setts ;  in  size  medium,  form  turbinate :  colour  dull  green  and  dull  red, 
rugsetted ;  flesh  white  :  particularly  sweet  and  rich,  though  not  very 
juicy :  good  from  November  to  February. 

WINTXR  NELIS,  Nelis  d  Hivcr,  La  Bonne  Malinoise.  All  accounts 
agree  that  this  is  a  most  excellent  Winter  pear  :  its  size  is  above  medium, 
somewhat  oval :  its  skin  green  and  russetty,  full  of  gray  dots :  flesh 
yellowish  white,  melting,  high  flavoured,  with  a  musky  perfume.  At 
perfection  in  December  and  January.  A 

PERRY    PEARS. 
BAHLAND.    This  variety  took  its  name  from  the  original  tree,  growing 


336  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PEARS, 

in  afield  called  Bare  Lands,  in  Herefordshire,  England.  The  fruit  ia 
smallish,  of  ovate  form:  skin  dull  green,  russetted  with  gray.  It  M 
deemed  excellent  for  perry.  Specific  gravity  of  its  juice  1070. 

HOLMORK.  Fruit  small,  globular:  skin  of  a  dingy  yellowish  greeni 
tinged  with  red.  Excellent  perry  is  made  of  this  variety  in  Hereford- 
shire, England.  Specific  gravity  of  its  juice  1066. 

HUFFCAP.  There  are  several  varieties  of  pears  bear  this  name,  but 
the  best  perry  is  made  of  the  true  Herefordshire  Huffcap.  The  fruit 
is  middle  sized,  of  pale  green  colour,  marked  with  gray  russet.  Spe- 
cific gravity  of  its  juice  1070. 

MONARCH.  A  new  pear,  considered  by  Mr.  Knight  as  without  a  rival. 
The  tree  is  of  rapid  growth,  and  an  abundant  bearer:  fruit  large,  of  an 
extraordinary  musky  flavour,  and  deemed  excellent  for  perry:  good 
also  for  the  table  :  from  October  to  December  and  January. 

OLDFIELD.  Fruit  below  the  medium  size,  of  pale  green  colour,  with 
russetty  spots.  An  excellent  perry  fruit.  Specific  gravity  of  itsjuice 
1067.  From  this  variety  is  made  the  celebrated  Ledbury  Perry. 

LONGLAND.  Fruit  very  handsome,  much  like  the  swan's  egg  in  shape : 
skin  bright  gold  colour,  tinged  and  mottled  with fc  russetty  lively  orange: 
specific  gravity  of  its  juice  1063.  The  tree  is  handsome  and  upright, 
and  much  cultivated  in  Herefordshire  for  perry. 

TEINTON  SQUASH.  Fruit  middle  sized,  of  angular  shape :  skin  a 
muddy  russetty  green,  marbled  with  dull  -orange,  interspersed  with 
ash-coloured  specks.  It  originated  in  Teinton,  Gloucestershire, and  the 
perry  made  from  this  fruit  is  of  the  very  highest  quality,  something 
approaching  in  colour  and  briskness  to  champaigne,  for  which  fine 
samples  of  it  have  sometimes  been  sold. 


PLUM. 

PRUNIER.     Prunus. 

THE  Plum  tree  rises  fifteen  feet  in  height,  branching  into 
a  moderately  spreading  head;  the  leaves  are  ovate,  serrated, 
and  on  short  petioles ;  petals  white.  The  natural  colour  of 
the  fruit  is  generally  considered  to  be  black  ;  but  the  varie- 
ties in  cultivation  are  of  yellow,  red,  blue,  and  green  colours, 
and  of  different  forms  and  flavours.  There  are  several 
good  sorts  grow  wild  in  the  hedges  of  Britain,  and  also  in 
America,  but  its  original  country  is  supposed  to  be  Asia ; 
and  according  to  Pliny,  it  was  taken  from  Syria  into 
Greece,  and  from  thence  into  Italy*  There  are  many 


PLUM,  337 

varieties  cultivated  in  France  ;  and  in  the  London  Horti 
cultural   Garden  there   are  two  hundred  and  ninety-eight 
sorts  kept  under  name.     The  green  Gage  is  considered  the 
best  dessert  Plum,  and  the  Wine-sour  for  sweetmeats  ;  but 
the  Damson  is  the  best  baking  Plum. 

The  Plum  is  said  to  succeed  best  in  a  lofty  exposure,  and 
may  yield  well  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  the  United 
States  ;  it  yields  well  near  Albany,  but  the  fruit  is  by  no 
means  plentiful  in  the  vicinity  of  the  City  of  New- York. 
Like  the  Nectarine,  it  is  subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  Curcu. 
4i»,  and  other  insects. 

It  has  been  observed  that  Plum  trees  growing  in  frequented 
lanes  or  barn  yards,  are  more  generally  fruitful  than  those 
cultivated  in  private  gardens,  or  secluded  situations ;  this 
circumstance  is  by  some  attributed  to  the  jarring  of  the 
trees,  by  cattle  and  swine  rubbing  against  them :  thus 
causing  the  defective  fruit  to  fall  on  the  ground.  Geese 
kept  in  orchards  or  fruit  gardens,  often  prove  beneficial ;  as 
they,  by  devouring  the  defective  fruit  and  other  corruptible 
matter,  prevent  the  possibility  of  insects  getting  into  the 
ground,  so  as  to  perpetuate  their  existence,  or  multiply  their 
species. 

Cobbett  attributes  the  scarcity  of  Plums  in  New- York 
to  neglect.  In  his  American  Gardener,  paragraph  320,  he 
asks,  "  how  is  it  that  we  see  so  few  Plums  in  America,  when 
the  markets  are  supplied  with  cart-loads  in  such  a  chilly, 
shady,  and  blig&ty  country  as  England  V1 

******* 

I  would  answer  this  query  by  informing  the  reader,  that 
the  inhabitants  of  our  parent  country,  with  a  view  to  derive 
the  full  benefit  of  the  Sun's  rays  for  the  cultivation  of  Plums, 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  and  suck  other  fruits  as  require  extra 
heat,  train  their  trees  against  walls,  fences,  or  trellis-work ; 
and  from  their  having  these  means  of  support,  gardeners 
have  no  inducement  to  plant  them  deeper  than  is  necessary ; 
whereas,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  American  climate 
being  sufficiently  warm  to  ripen  those  fruits  on  standard 
trees,  they  are  generally  so  cultivated.  Many  persons,  to 

29 


338  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST   Of  PLUMS. 

save  the  trouble  of  staking,  or  otherwise  supporting  their 
trees,  plant  them  too  deep,  and  thus  defeat  the  operations  of 
Nature.  That  this  is  a  prevalent  error,  has  been  shown, 
page  311  and  319  to  322,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred 
for  a  more  concise  view  of  the  subject. 

New  varieties  of  the  Plum  are  produced  from  seed;  and 
the  old  kinds  are  generally  propagated  by  budding  on 
stocks  of  free-growing  Plums,  in  preference  to  grafting 
because  Plum  trees  are  very  apt  to  gum  wherever  large 
wounds  are  made  in  them.  All  the  sorts  produce  their  fruit 
on  small  natural  spurs  rising  at  the  ends  and  along  the  sides 
of  the  bearing  shoots  of  one,  two,  or  three  years'  growth- 
In  most  sorts,  new  fruit  branches  are  two  years  old  before 
the  spurs  bear.  The  same  branches  and  spurs  continue 
fruitful,  in  proportion  to  the  time  which  they  take  to  come 
into  bearing. 

After  the  formation  of  the  head  is  begun,  it  takes  from 
two  to  six  years  before  the  different  sorts  come  into  bearing. 
Standards  must  be  allowed  to  expand  in  free  growth, 
occasionally  pruning  long  ramblers  and  irregular  cross 
branches.  In  annual  pruning,  thin  crowded  parts ,  cut 
away  worn  out  bearers,  and  all  decayed  and  cankery  wood. 
The  Plum  may  be  cultivated  in  small  gardens,  trained  as 
espaliers,  or  to  a  close  fence,  like  the  Apricot,  &c. 

The  tree  is  of  further  use  than  for  its  fruit  as  a  dessert, 
&c.  the  bark  dyes  yellow ;  the  wood  is  used  by  turners ; 
and  the  dried  fruit,  or  prune,  is  formed  into  electuaries  and 
gentle  purgatives.  Prunes  were  originally  brought  from 
Damascus,  whence  their  name. 


SELECT  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PLUMS, 

APRICOT  PLUM,  Prune  Alricote,  Abricotec  dc  Tours.  The  fruit  is 
large,  its  form  globular,  depressed,  divided  by  a  deep  sature ;  whitish 
yellow,  but  faint  red  next  the  sfcm,  and  covered  with  bloom;  its  flesh  is 
firm,  juicy,  sweet,  musky  and  excellent ;  it  ripens  in  August  and  Sep- 
tember. 

BINGHAM.  A  delicious  clingstone  plum,  of  large  size  and  oval  form  ;, 
skin  bright  yellow,  spotted  and  blotched  with  red ;  flesh  yellow,  rich- 
and  delicious ;  ripening  in  September, 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PLUMS.    •  339 

BLEECKER'S  GAGE.  This  plum  is  stated  to  have  been  raised  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Bleecker,  of  Albany,  from  the  stoue  of  a  German  Prune  ;  it 
is  a  large  globular  fruit,  of  excellent  quality;  skin  dark  yellow,  with  red 
spots  and  blotches ;  the  flesh  is  rich,  saccharine,  ami  juicy ;  in  Sep- 
tember. 

CHICKASAW  PLUM.  A  native  species  from  "  Virginia  to  Carolinai" 
Fruit  round  ;  some  varieties  are  red,  and  some  yellow,  about  the  size 
of  cherries.  The  growth  of  the  tree  is  different  from  any  other  kind  of 
plum,  and  at  a  little  distance  looks  somewhat  like  a  Peach  tree.  It  is 
very  ornamental ;  and  Mr.  Floy  says  it  would  make  a  fine  stock  to  bud 
Peaches,  Nectarines,  or  Almonds  on,  in  the  Southern  States. 

COE'S  GOLDEN  DROP,  COG'S  Imperial,  Bury  Seedling,  New  Golden 
Drop,  Fair's  Golden  Drop.  Raised  by  Mr.  Coe,  of  Bury,  Norfolk, 
England.  The  tree  is  vigorous,  fruit  oval,  of  large  size  ;  skin  greenish 
yellow,  spotted  with  violet  and  crimson;  flesh  gold  colour,  rich  and 
excellent;  the  fruit  ripens  at  the  end  of  September,  and  will  keep 
several  weeks.  A  first-rate  fruit,  and  worthy  of  general  cultivation. 

COOPER'S  LARGE  RED,  Ceoper's  Large  American,  La  Delicieuse.  This 
plum  is  of  extraordinary  size,  measuring  within  an  eighth  of  two  inches 
in  each  direction ;  the  skin  is  of  a  fine  dark  purple  colour ;  the  flesh  is 
jellowish  green,  rich,  juicy,  and  of  pleasant  flavour;  the  fruit  makes 
excellent  preserves,  if  gathered  in  August ;  its  great  defect  is  an  inclina- 
tion to  rot. 

DIAMOND  PLUM.  Some  consider  this  as  the  largest  plum  known  ;  its 
colour  is  a  dark  purple ;  in  form  it  resembles  the  Magnum  Bonum,  but 
its  flavour  is  considered  rather  superior ;.  it  ripens  in  September;  The 
tree,  which  grows  vigorously,  originated  with  Mr.  Hooker,  Kent, 
England. 

DOWNTON  IMPERATRICE.  A  superior  late  plum,  of  medium  size, 
shaped  similar  to  the  blue  imperatrice ;  skin  dark  yellow,  and  very  thin ; 
the  flesh  yellow,  soft,  juicy,  with  a  high  flavoured  acidity  ;  at  perfection 
in  October  and  November. 

DUANE'S  PURPLE.  A  very  superior  plum,  of  an  extraordinary  size 
the  form  round  ;  the  skin  a  dark  purple  ;  flesh  sweet  and  good;  ripen 
ing  in  September ;  named  as  above  from  being  imported  by  Mr.  Duane 
of  New- York.  Its  original  name  lost. 

FLUSHING  GAGE,  Superior  Gage.  A  fine  plum,  of  oval  shape  and 
yellow  colour,  with  a  whitish  bloom ;  flesh  yellow,  melting,  rich,  and 
separating  freely  from  the  stone ;  ripe  towards  the  end  of  August. 

GERMAN  PRUNE,  Qmtsche,  Quetzen.  The  fruit  of  the  Quetsche  plum 
is  grown  for  the  purpose  of  drying,  and  is  considered  the  best  for  use 
as  prunes  ;  fruit  below  the  middle  size ;  of  an  oval  figure ;  skin  red  and 
purple ;  flesh  yellow ;  juice  sweet,  with  a  slight  acid ;  ripe  early  in 
September. 

GOLIATH,  Goliah,  St.  Cloud.  This  fruit  is  very  large,  sometimes 
^f  ighing  four  ounces ;  the  skin  is  a  deep  reddish  purple*;  the  flesh  pale 


340  DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OF  PLUMS. 

yellow,  firm,  and  well  flavoured,  but  not  rich ;  the  tree  is  a  great  bearer^ 
and  the  fruit  much  used  for  cooking ;  ripe  in  September. 

GREEN  GAGE,  Great  Queen  Claude,  J9aupM,net  Grosse  Reine  Claude, 
Abricot  Y&rt,  Verte  Bonne,  Gros  Damns  Vert.  A  middle  sized  round 
fruit,  of  a  yellowish  green  colour,  and  purplish  russetty  red  next  the 
sun;  the  flesh  is  of  a  greenish  hue,  melting,  with  abundance  of  very 
sweet  and  highly  perfumed  juice,  of  an  exquisite  taste ;  it  arrives  at 
maturity  towards  the  end  of  August. 

J^ORSE  PLUM,  Large  Sweet  Damson.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  oval, 
with  a  deep  sature  in  the  middle ;  skin  dark  red,  inclining  to  purple 
when  ripe  ;  flesh  greenish  yellow  ;  juice  acid,  but  agreeable.  Quan- 
tities of  these  plums  are  sold  in  the  New-York  markets  in  September 
and  October,  for  sweetmeats.  The  trees  are  generally  raised  from 
suckers,  and  Peaches,  Apricots,  and  Nectarines,  will  bud  and  thrive 
well  on  such  stocks. 

HULING'S  SUPERB,  Keysets  Plum.  This  plum  is  of  monstrous  size, 
and  has  been  known  to  weigh  nearly  four  ounces ;  it  is  of  roundish 
form,  and  of  a  greenish  yellow  colour;  the  flesh  is  sweet  and  excellent. 
It  was  raised  from  seed  by  Mr.  Keyser,  of  Pennsylvania,  and  brought 
into  notice  by  Dr.  Wm.  Hulings,  of  that  state. 

IMPERATRTCE,  Jmperatrice  Violette,  Blue  Imperatrice.  One  of  the 
best  of  late  plums ;  fruit  medium  size,  oval ;  skin  rich,  deep  purple, 
covered  with  bloom ;  flesh  yellowish  green,  a  little  firm,  very  sweet, 
rich  and  juicy ;  the  fruit  hangs  long  on  the  tree,  and  is  at  maturity  from, 
October  to  December. 

IMPERIAL  DIADEM.  A  large  fruit,  admirably  adapted  for  culinary 
purposes  ;  shape  oval ;  colour  pale  red,  but  dark  when  mature  ;  flesh 
yellow,  and  separates  from  the  stone,  juice  plentiful  when  perfectly 
ripe,  which  is  early  in  September;  it  is  of  good  flavour,  and  highly 
perfumed. 

ITALIAN  DAMASK,  Damas  dfltalie.  This  fruit  is  of  medium  size, 
nearly  round,  a  little  flattened  at  the  base  ;  its  colour  blue  or  violet,  and 
covered  with  a  purple  bloom  ;  its  flesh  is  yellow,  rich  and  juicy,  and  the 
tree,  which  matures  its  fruit  in  August,  is  very  productive. 

KIRKE'S  PLUM.  This  variety  is  said  to  be  as  hardy  and  prolific  as  the 
Orleans,  as  handsome  as  the  Damask,  and  as  good  as  the  Green  Gage. 
Fruit  large,  roundish ;  skin  covered  with  a  close,  firm,  azure  bloom, 
through  which  appears  a  few  golden  speeks ;  flesh  greenish  yellow, 
firm,  juicy  and  rich  ;  in  perfection  the  early  part  of  September. 

LA  ROYALE,  Royale.  A  large  and  excellent  plum,  of  a  homely  dull 
red  colour,  but  concealed  by  a  thick  violet  or  azure  bloom  ;  flesh  fine, 
yellowish  green,  firm,  juicy,  high  flavoured  and  delicious ;  a  superior 
plum;  at  maturity  early  in  September. 

LATE  PURPLE  DAMSON,  Purple  Winter  Damson,  Blue  Damascene,  Blue 
Damson.  This  variety  is  in  great  esteem  for  preserves,  and  generally 
commands  a  high  price.  It  is  of  a  dark  purple  colour,  covered  with 


DESCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PLUMS.  341 

fetoom ;  the  flesh  has  rather  too  much  acidity  for  a  table  fruit,  but  thii 
tartness  gives  it  an  agreeable  flavour  when  cooked. 

LUCOMBE'S  NONSUCH.  This  plum  is  large,  compressed  at  the  summit 
and  base,  its  breadth  is  two  inches ;  its  colour  at  maturity,  as  well  as  its 
form,  resemble  the  Green  Gage,  but  more  streaked  with  yellew  ;  flesh 
firm,  rich  and  juicy  ;  at  maturity  in  August ;  tree  a  good  bearer. 

MIMM'S,  Mimm's  Plum.  The  fruit  is  very  large,  a  little  oblong; 
colour  bright  purple,  covered  with  thick  bloom ;  its  flesh,  which  separ- 
ates from  the  stone,  is  yellowish  green,  tender,  juicy,  and  very 
agreeably  flavoured :  ripe  in  September. 

MOROCCO,  Early  Black  Damask,  Black  Damascus,  Black  Morocco) 
Early  Damask,  Early  Morocco.  This  is  considered  as  one  of  the  best  of 
early  plums.  The  tree  is  very  hardy  and  productive;  fruit  middle 
sized,  roundish ;  skin  deep  blackish  purple,  covered  with  a  light  blue 
bloom ;  flesh  greenish  yellow,  juicy,  rich,  and  high  flavoured :  ripe 
early  in  August. 

NECTARINE  PLUM,  Caledonian,  HowelVs  Large,  Prune  Peche.  One  of 
the  most  beautiful  plums  known ;  large,  nearly  round ;  the  skin  at 
maturity  varies  from  red  to  crimson,  covered  with  azure  bloom ;  flesh 
yellowish,  coarse  grained,  astringent;  juice  abundant,  and  of  mild, 
pleasant  flavour ;  at  maturity  in  July  and  early  in  August. 

NEW- YORK  PURPLE,  Brevoort's  Purple  Bolmar,  BrevoorCs  Purple 
Washington.  An  excellent  fruit,  raised  from  a  seed  of  Bolmar's  Wash- 
ington Plum,  that  had  been  impregnated  with  the  pollen  of  the  Blue 
Gage.  The  fruit  is  very  large  ;  skin  brown  red,  covered  with  purple 
bloom ;  flesh  yellow,  of  a  rich  and  brisk  flavour,  and  adheres  to  the 
stone  :  ripe  about  the  middle  of  August. 

ORLEANS  PLUM,  Red  Damask,  Damas  Reuge.  A  well  known  and 
productive  plum ;  of  medium  size,  and  somewhat  e val  form ;  the  skin 
is  dark  red,  approaching  to  purple,  with  a  thin,  blue  Woom;  flesh 
yellow,  firm  and  good,  separating  freely  from  the  stone :  ripe  in  August* 

PRECOSE  DE  TOURS,  Early  Tours.  The  tree  is  vigorous  und  fertile  ; 
fruit  small,  oval,  dark  purple,  covered  with  fine  bloom  :  flesh  greenish 
yellow,  tender  juicy,  and  of  very  agreeable  flavour ;  one  of  the  best 
early  varieties,  and  very  productive :  ripe  at  the  end  of  July. 

PRINCE'S  LMPERIAL  GAGE,  Flushing  Gage,  Superior  Gage.  This  tree 
was  originated  at  the  Flushing  nursery,  from  a  seed  of  the  Green  Gage. 
The  fruit  is  one  of  the  largest  of  its  class  ;  the  skin  at  maturity  is  yellow, 
with  a  whitish  bloom  ;  the  flesh  is  rich,  luscious  and  of  excellent  flavour, 
and  makes  fine  preserves,  if  gathered  towards  the  end  of  August :  at 
maturity  in  September, 

PRUNE  SUISSE,  Semiana,  Prune  d*Alessa,  Monsieur  Tardif  Semiana, 
Fruit  very  handsome,  round,  flattened ;  colour  varying  from  bright 
amber  to  deep  red,  and  covered  with  azure  bloom ;  flesh  yellow,  crack- 
ling and  melting  ;  juice  very  abundant  and  delicious ;  an  excellent  fruit, 
ripening  in  September  ^and  October,  and  much  cultirited  in  Massa- 
chusetts. 

29* 


342  DJWCRIPTIVE  LIST  OP  PLUMS, 

• 

PURPLR  GAGE,  Heine  Claude  Violette,  Die  Violette,  Konigtn  Clwdie. 
This  fruit  is  of  medium  size,  almost  round,  and  may  be  considered  as 
one  of  the  finest  varieties  ;  its  skin  is  of  violet  purple  colour,  with  pale 
yellow  dots,  and  covered  with  alight  blue  bloom  ;  flesh  greenish  amber, 
rich,  saccharine  and  high  flavoured :  at  maturity  in  August,  and  good 
until  October. 

RED  DIAPER,  Diapree  Rouge,  Reche  Corbon.  One  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful plums  known;  form  oval,  above  medium  size  ;  colour  bright  red, 
with  a  partial  degree  of  bloom,  and  speckled  with  dots  of  deeper  red ; 
flesh  greenish  yellow,  soft  and  sweet,  separates  from  the  stone;  the 
fruit  makes  excellent  prune*,  if  gathered  early  in  September,  and  like 
the  Imperatrice,  will  hang  some  time  on  the  tree. 

RED  MAGNUM  BONUM,  Imperial,  Imperial  Violette,  of  the  French.  A 
largo,  oval  plum,  of  deep  red  colour,  covered  with  blue  bloom ;  the 
flesh  which  parts  from  the  stone,  is  harsh  and  acid ;  consequently  good 
for  cooking,  preserves,  &c. :  in  September  and  October. 

RED  PERDRIGON,  Perdrigon  Rouge.  An  excellent  plum,  of  the  first 
class,  of  medium  size,  oval  shape,  and  fine  red  colour,  with  gold 
coloured  dots  and  a  fine  bloom ;  flesh  bright  yellow,  transparent,  and 
separates  from  the  stone  ;  juic§  sweet  and  delicious  ;  ripe  early  in  Sep- 
tember. It  makes  excellent  prunes. 

RED  QUEEN  MOTHER.  This  plum  is  of  medium  size,  its  colour 
bright  red  and  yellow,  somewhat  spotted,  and  covered  with  pale  bloom; 
its  flesh  is  yellow,  sweet  and  excellent,  ripening  early  in  September, 
A  very  productive  variety. 

ROYAL  DE  TOURS,  The  tree  is  of  extraordinary  vigorous  growth ; 
its  principal  stem  rises  vertically;  the  fruit  is  globular,  of  medium  size  ; 
red  violet  colour,  and  covered  with  azure  bloom;  flesh  yellow,  fine, 
good;  juice  abundant  and  sweet:  ripens  early  in  August. 

SAINT  CATHARINE.  A  medium  sized,  oblong  fruit ;  skin  bright  gold 
colour,  spotted  with  red  at  maturity,  and  covered  with  bloom  ;  flesh 
yellow,  tender,  sweet,  and  fine  flavour ;  ripens  early  in  September,  and 
will  hang  some  time  on.  the  tree.  A  good  market  plum,  for  which 
purpose  it  is  much  cultivated. 

SURPASSE  MONSIEUR.  A  large  fruit,  of  oval  form,  and  of  a  dark  red 
purplish  colour,  raised  by  a  Mr.  Noisette :  it  is  said  to  be  more  beautiful 
and  perfumed  than  the  Monsieur,  and  the  tree  yields  suckers  which 
produce  fruit  in  all  their  beauty  and  excellence  :  in  September. 

VIBGINALE.  This  fruit  ranks  among  the  best  of  plums ;  its  shape  is 
round,  colour  yellowish,  touched  with  violet  or  rose,  and  covered  with 
dense  bloom;  flesh  melting,  juice  abundant,  and  very  agreeable;  it 
sdheres  to  the  stone  :  ripe  in  September. 

WASHINGTON,  New  Washington,  Bolmar's  Washington,  Franklin.  A 
very  large,  globular  plum,  inclining  to  oval ;  colour  greenish  yellow, 
with  crimson  specks,  covered  with  a  rich  bloom.  This  plum  has  some- 
times weighed  over  four  ounces;  its  flesh  is  yellow,  firm,  sweet  and 
delicious ;  in  August.  This  variety  originated  in  New- York,  from. 


<*UINCE. 

suckers  of  ail  old  root;  the  tree  of  which  had  been  some  time  previously 
destroyed  by  lightning. 

WHITE  MAGNUM  BONUM,  Imperiale  Blanche,  Egg  Plum,  White  Mogul* 
White  Holland,  This  fruit  is  of  extraordinary  size,  oval,  yellow,  cov- 
ered with  pale  bloom:  the  flashiyellow,  firm,  acid  and  austere:  excel- 
lent for  cooking  and  preserves:  in  September. 

WHITE  PERDRIGOX,  Perdrigon  Blanc.  A  middle  sized,  oblong  fruit, 
of  a  pale  yellow,  with  red  spots,  and  covered  with  white  bloom  ;  flesh 
yellow,  rich,  saccharine  and  juicy:  it  ripens  in  August  and  September. 

WiL3ioT's  NEW  EARLY  ORLEANS,  WdmoCs  Orleans.  This  plum  is 
above  medium  size,  of  round  form;  its  sature  deep;  of  a  dark  purplish 
hue,  covered  with  a  fine  bloom :  the  flesh  is  greenish  yellow,  of  excellent 
flavour,  sweet,  combined  with  a  pleasant  acid.  It  is  a  handsome  plum, 
ripening  early  in  August . 

f  WJNKSOUR,  Rotherham,  of  the  old  gardens.  This  plum  is  excellent  to 
preserve  for  sweetmeats :  it  is  of  medium  size,  oblong  form,  and  of 
dark  purple  colour  :  the  flesh  is  yellow,  juicy,  and  of  a  pleasant  acid 
flavour:  the  fruit  is  fit  for  use  early  in  September:  the  tree  is  a  great 
bearer,  and  will  grow  on  any  soil,  'but  flourishes'  most  on  limestone  or 
gravel. 


QUINCE. 

COIGNASSIER.     Cydonia. 

THE  Quince  is  of  low  growth,  much  branched,  and 
generally  crooked  and  distorted.  The  leaves  are  roundish, 
or  ovate,  entire  above  dusky  green,  underneath  whitish,  on 
short  petioles.  The  flowers  are  large,  white,  or  pale  red, 
and  appear  in  May  and  June ;  the  fruit,  a  pome,  varying 
in  shape  in  the  different  varieties,  globular,  oblong,  or 
ovate  ;  it  has  a  peculiar  and  rather  disagreeable  smell,  and 
austere  taste.  The  fruit  takes  its  name  from  being  a 
native  of  the  ancient  town  of  Cydon,  in  the  Island  of  Crete  ; 
some  suppose  it  to  be  a  corruption  of  Malus  cotonea, 
by  which  the  Latins  designated  the  fruit.  It  is  used  as  a 
marmalade  for  flavouring  apple  pies,  and  making  an  excel- 
lent sweetmeat ;  and  it  has  the  advantage  over  many  other 
fruits  for  keeping,  if  properly  managed. 

Of  the  several  sorts,  the  following  are  in  greatest  esteem  : 
I.  The  oblong,  or  Pear  Quince,  with  ovate  leaves,  and  an. 


oblong  fruit  lengthened  at  the  base.  9.  The  Apple  Quincey 
with  ovate  leaves,  and  a  rounder  fruit.  3.  The  Portugal 
Quince,  the  fruit  of  which  is  more  juicy  and  less  harsh  than 
the  preceding,  and  therefore  the  most  valuable.  It  is  rather 
a  shy  bearer,  but  is  highly  esteemed,  as  the  pulp  has  the 
property  of  assuming  a^fine  purple  tint  in  the  course  of  being 
prepared  as  a  marmalade.  4.  The  mild  or  eatable  Quince, 
being  less  austere  and  astringent  than  the  others. 

The  Quince  produces  the  finest  fruit  when  planted  in  a 
soft  moist  soil,  and  rather  shady,  or  at  least  sheltered 
situation.  It  is  generally  propagated  by  layers,  and  also  by 
cuttings,  and  approved  sorts  may  be  perpetuated  by  graft- 
ing. In  propagating  for  stocks,  nothing  more  is  necessary 
than  removing  the  lower  shoots  from  the  layer,  so  as  to 
preserve  a  clear  stem  as  high  as  the  graft ;  bift  for  fruit- 
bearing  trees,  it  is  necessary  to  train  the  stem  to  a  rod,  till 
it  has  attained  four  or  five  feet  in  height,  and  can  support 
itself  upright. 

When  planted  in  an  orchard,  the  trees  may  be  placed 
ten  or  twelve  feet  apart.  The  time  of  planting,  the  mode 
of  bearing,  and  all  the  other  particulars  of  culture,  are  the 
same  as  for  the  Apple  and  Pear.  The  chief  pruning  they 
require,  is  to  keep  them  free  from  suckers,  and  cut  out 
decayed  wood. 


RASPBERRY. 

FRAMBOISIER.     Rubus,  etc. 

THERE  are  several  species  of  the  Rubus  found  wild  in 
various  parts  of  Asia,  Europe,  and  America,  some  of  which 
have  upright  stems,  others  prostrate  ;  the  American  Stone 
Bramble,  and  also  the  common  Blackberry,  Dewberry, 
Cloudberry,  &c.  are  of  this  family.  The  Rubus  idacus,  or 
common  Raspberry,  grows  spontaneously  in  the  province  of 
New  Brunswick,  and  in  various  parts  of  the  United  States, 
but  most  of  the  cultivated  varieties  are  supposed  to  have 
originated  in  England.  Loudon  describes  the  true  Rasp- 


RASPBERRY.  345 

berry  as  having  stems  which  are  suflructicose,  upright, 
rising  to  the  height  of  several  feet,  and  are  biennial  in  du- 
ration ;  but  the  root  is  perennial,  producing  suckers  which 
ripen  and  drop  their  leaves  one  year,  and  resume  their 
foliage,  produce  blossom  shoots,  flower,  and  fruit,  and  die 
the  next.  The  leaves  are  quinate-pinnate  ;  the  flowers  come 
in  panicles  from  the  extremity  of  the  present  year's  shoots ; 
they  are  white,  appear  in  May  and  June,  and  the  fruit  ripens 
about  a  fortnight  afterwards." 

The  fruit  is  grateful  to  most  palates,  as  Nature  presents 
it,  but  sugar  improves  the  flavour ;  accordingly,  it  is  much 
esteemed  when  made  into  sweetmeats,  and  for  jams,  tarts, 
and  sauces.  It  is  fragrant,  sub-acid,  and  cooling;  allays 
heat  and  thirst.  It  is  much  used  in  distilling.  "  Raspberry 
syrup  is  next  to  the  Strawberry,  in  dissolving  the  tartar  of 
the  teeth  ;  and  as,  like  that  fruit,  it  does  not  undergo  the 
acetous  fermentation  in  the  stomach,  it  is  recommended  to 
gouty  and  rheumatic  patients." 

Nicol  enumerates  twenty-three  species  and  varieties  of  the 
cultivated  Raspberry,  and  twenty-one  of  the  Rubusronce^  or 
Bramble ;  of  the  latter,  is  included  the  American  red  and 
black  Raspberry,  and  the  Long  Island  and  Virginian  Rasp- 
berry. The  English  varieties  are,  early  Small  white ;  Large 
white  ;  Large  red  ;  most  Large  red  Antwerp ;  Large  yellow 
Antwerp  ;  Cane,  or  smooth-stalked  ;  Twice-bearing  white  ; 
Twice-bearing  red  ;  Smooth  cane,  twice-bearing ;  Wood- 
ward's Raspberry.  Prince's  catalogue  contains  twenty- 
seven  names,  amongst  which  are,  Brentford  red  ;  Brentford 
white  ;  Flesh-coloured  ;  Barnet  red,  fine  ;  Pennsylvania  ; 
Cretan  red  ;  Prolific  red  ;  Canada  purple  rose-flowering,  <fcc. 

The  varieties  can  be  perpetuated  by  young  sucker  shoots, 
rising  plenteously  from  the  root  in  Spring  and  Summer; 
when  these  have  completed  one  season's  growth,  they  are 
proper  to  detach  with  roots  for  planting,  either  in  the 
Autumn  of  the  same  year,  or  the  next  Spring,  in  March  or 
early  in  April.  These  new  plants  will  bear  some  fruit  the 
first  year,  and  furnish  a  succession  of  strong  bottom  shoots 
for  full  bearing  the  second  season.  New  varieties  are  raised 
from  seed,  and  they  come  into  bearing  the  second  year. 


346  STRAWBERRY. 

Raspberry  beds  are  in  their  prime  about  the  third  and 
fourth  year  ;  and,  if  well  managed,  continue  in  perfection 
five  or  six  years,  after  which  they  are  apt  to  decline  in 
growth,  and  the  fruit  to  become  small,  so  that  a  successive 
plantation  should  be  provided  in  time.  Select  new  plants 
from  vigorous  stools  in  full  perfection  as  to  bearing.  Be 
careful  to  favour  the  twice  bearers  with  a  good  mellow  soil, 
in  a  sheltered  situation,  in  order  that  the  second  crop  may 
come  to  perfection. 

When  Raspberries  are  cultivated  on  a  large  scale,  it  is 
best  to  plant  them  in  beds  by  themselves,  in  rows  from  three 
to  five  feet  apart,  according  to  the  kinds.  In  small  gardens, 
they  may  be  planted  in  detached  stools,  or  in  single  rows,  in 
different  parts  of  the  garden,  from  the  most  sunny  to  the 
most  shady  aspect,  for  early  and  late  fruit  of  improved  growth 
and  flavour.  It  is  requisite  to  cut  out  the  dead  stems  early 
in  the  Spring,  and  to  thin  and  regulate  the  successional 
young  shoots  ;  at  the  same  time,  the  shoots  retained  should 
be  pruned  at  the  top,  below  the  weak  bending  part,  and 
some  rotten  dung  worked  in,  around  the  roots  of  the  plants. 
Keep  them  clear  of  weeds  during  the  Summer,  by  hoeing 
between  the  rows ;  at  the  same  time  eradicate  all  super- 
fluous suckers,  but  be  careful  to  retain  enough  for  stock  in, 
succeeding  years. 


STRAWBERRY. 

FRAISIER.     Fragaria. 

This  is  a  genus  of  fruit-bearing  herbaceous  plants,  of 
which  there  are  few  in  the  vegetable  kingdom  that  can 
equal  the  Strawberry  in  wholesomeness  and  excellence. 
The  fruit  is  supposed  to  receive  its  name  from  the  ancient 
practice  of  laying  straw  between  the  rows,  which  keeps  the 
ground  moist  and  the  fruit  clean.  They  are  natives  of  tem- 
perate, or  cold  climates,  as  of  Europe  and  America.  The 
fruit,  though  termed  a  berry,  is,  in  correct  botanical  Ian* 
guage,  a  fleshy  receptacle,  studded  with  seeds.  It  is  univer- 


STRAWBERRY.  347 

sally  grateful  alone,  or  with  sugar,  cream,  or  wine,  and  has 
the  property,  so  valuable  for  acid  stomachs,  of  not  under- 
going the  acetous  fermentation*  Physicians  concur  in 
placing  Strawberries  in  their  small  catalogue  of  pleasant 
remedies  ;  as  having  properties  which  render  them,  in  most 
conditions  of  the  animal  frame,  positively  salutary  ;  they 
dissolve  the  tartareous  incrustations  of  the  teeth  ;  they  pro- 
mote perspiration.  Persons  afflicted  with  the  gout,  -have 
found  relief  from  using  them  very  largely  ;  so  have  patients 
in  case  of  the  stone  ;  and  Hoffman  states,  that  he  has 
known  consumptive  people  cured  by  them.  The  bark  of 
the  root  is  astringent." 

In  cultivating  the  Strawberry,  an  open  situation  and 
rich  loamy  soil,  rather  strong,  is  required  for  most  varieties  ; 
and  from  their  large  mass  of  foliage  and  flowers,  they  must, 
till  the  fruit  is  set,  have  copious  supplies  of  water.  The 
row  culture  is  best  calculated  to  produce  fruit ;  and  fre- 
quent renewal  insures  vigorous  plants,  as  well  as  large  fruit. 
Some  make  beds  of  single  rows,  from  twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  apart,  according  to  the  sorts  ;  others  form  a  bed  with 
two  rows  eighteen  inches  asunder.  If  several  beds  be  in- 
tended, a  space  of  two  feet  may  be  left  between  each  bed  as 
a  path  ;  and  in  the  second  or  third  season,  the  paths  may 
be  manured  and  dug,  to  admit  of  the  runners  taking  root ; 
by  this  means,  a  renewal  may  be  made  so  often,  and  the 
old  stools  being  taken  away,  leaves  spaces  between  the  beds 
as  before.  Or,  new  plantations  may  be  made  every  season  ; 
because  after  the  roots  are  fairly  established,  they  multiply 
spontaneously,  as  well  by  suckers  from  the  parent  stem, 
as  by  the  numerous  runners ;  all  of  which,  rooting  and 
forming  a  plant  at  every  joint,  require  only  removal  to  a 
spot  where  there  is  room  for  them  to  flourish.  If  taken 
off,  and  planted  in  rows  in  August  and  September,  they 
will  produce  fine  fruit  the  following  season,  and  will  bear 
in  full  perfection  the  sacond  Summer ;  some,  however, 
prefer  Spring  planting,  which  answers  very  well,  if  done  in 
damp  weather. 

A  plantation  of  the  Alpine  yields  fruit  the  same  year 
that  it  is  made.     The  Wood  and  the  Alpine  come  regularly 


348  STRAWBERRY. 

from  seed,  from  which  finer  fruit  may  be  produced  than 
from  offsets.  The  other  species  are  uniformly  propagated 
by  offsets,  except  the  intention  be  to  try  for  new  varieties. 
The  Alpine  and  Wood  species  may.be  planted  in  situations 
rather  cool  and'shady,  in  order  that  they  may  produce  their 
fruit  late  in  the  season,  which  is  desirable.  The  Strawberry, 
with  a  little  trouble  of  choosing  a  succession  of  sorts,  may 
be  forced  so  as  to  be  had  at  the  dessert  every  month  in  the 
year ;  though,  during  the  Winter  months,  they  have  not 
much  flavour. 

Some  gardeners  lay  straw  an  inch  or  two  thick  over  their 
beds  in  March,  and  set  fire  to  it,  in  order  to  promote  a 
stocky  growth  of  plants  and  early  fruit ;  others  reccommend 
mowing  off  the  tops  of  such  as  are  not  required  to  fruit  early, 
while  they  are  in  blossom,  with  a  view  to  obtain  a  crop  of 
Strawberries  late  in  the  season. 

The  London  Horticultural  Catalogue  contains  the  names 
of  one  hundred  and  twenty-one  varieties  of  all  the  species  ; 
which  are  classed  according  to  their  nature,  colour,  &c. 
Class  1.  Scarlet  Strawberries  ;  2.  Black  Strawberries;  3. 
Pine  Strawberries;  4.  Chili  Strawberries;  6.  Hauibois 
Strawberries  ;  6.  Green  Strawberries  ;  7.  Alpine  and  Wood 
Strawberries.  To  select  all  the  most  esteemed  from  this, 
or  any  other  extensive  catalogue,  is  a  difficult  task  ;  the 
following  description  of  species  and  varieties  may  serve  to 
direct  the  choice : 


The  Wood  Strawberry,  Fragaria  vesea.  with  oval  serrated  leaves :  the 
fruit  red,  white,  and  green,  which  is  round  and  small.  A  native  of 
Britain. 

The  Scarlet,  Fragaria  Virginiana,  with  leaves  like  the  preceding :  the 
fruit  roundish  and  scarlet-coloured.  A  native  of  Virginia.  Varieties — 
Methven  Scarlet,  Knight's  Scarlet,  Austrian  Scarlet,  Early  Scarlet,  Wil- 
mot's  late,  Common  late,  Wilmot's  Early  Scarlet,  &c. 

The  Roseberry,  Fragaria  Virg.  var.  An  Aberdeen  seedling,  intro- 
duced in  1810.  The  plants  have  few  roundish  leaves,  larger  fruit  than 
the  scarlet,  and  are  very  prolific :  continues  bearing  till  August. 

The  Black  var.  Downton,  Dark  Scarlet  Strawberry,  originated  by  Mr, 
Knight.  The  fruit  is  large,  irregular,  and  cockscomb-like:  plant  hardy 
and  prolific. 

The  Carolina,   Fragaria  Carolinensis,  colour  dark  red:  a  native  for 


STRAWBEBRY.  34Q 

America.  Theie  are  several  choice  varieties  of  this  fruit  as — Elton's 
Seedling,  Keen's  Seedling,  Mulberry,  Wilmot's  Black  Imperial,  Blood 
Pine,  North's  Seedling,  Knevet's  Seeding,  &c. 

The  Musky,  or  Hautbois,  Fragaria  elatier,  with  oval  rough  javelin- 
edged  leaves.  A  native  of  Britain.  Varieties— Black  Hautbois,  Globe 
Hautbois,  Double  or  Twice  Bearing,  producing  delicious  fruit  in  Spring 
and  Autumn. 

The  Chili.  Fragaria  Chiliensis,  with  large,  oval,  thick,  hairy  leaves, 
and  large  flowers  :  the  fruit  large  and  very  firm :  a  native  of  South 
America.  Wilmot's  Superb,  or  Large  Cockscomb  Scarlet,  and  Green- 
well's  New  Giant,  are  highly  esteemed  varieties. 

Keen's  Imperial,  or  New  Chili,  Fragaria  Chili,  var.  raised  by  Mr.  Keen, 
of  Isleworth,  a  most  excellent  bearer,  ripening  early.  The  fruit  is  very 
large  :  the  flesh  firm  and  solid,  without  any  separable  core:  colour  scarlet. 

The  Alpine,  or  Prolific,  Fragaria  collina,  commonly  lasts  from  June 
till  November,  and  in  mild  seasons,  till  near  Christmas  :  the  varieties  of 
this  fruit  are  red  and  white.  .Natives  of  the  Alps  of  Europe. 

The  one  leaved,  Fragaria  monophylla,  the  pulp  of  the  fruit,  pink- 
coloured.  A  native  of  South  America. 

The  Grove  End  Scarlet  Strawberry,  a  seed-ing  raised  by  Wm.  Atkinson, 
Esq.  in  IKS  garden  at  Grove  End,  Marylebone,  in  the  year  1820 ;  an  excel- 
lent bearer,  ripening  its  berries  early  and  in  succession. 

All  the  species  and  varieties  of  this  fruit  are  highly  esti- 
mated in  Britain,  where  they  are  cultivated  in  great  per- 
fection. Berries  have  been  known  to  weigh  from  one  to  two 
ounces,  which  have  been  grown  to  the  circumference  of 
eight  inches  and  upwards.  It  may  be  gratifying  to  the 
lovers  of  this  excellent  fruit,  to  be  informed  that  some  of  the 
best  kinds  are  attainable  here.  Messrs.  Prince  &  Sons,  and 
Mr.  Floy,  have  some  of  the  choicest  kinds  in  their  nurseries ; 
and  one  of  our  patriotic  fellow-citizens,  the  late  Jesse  Buel, 
Esq.,  of  Albany,  informed  us  in  the  Albany  Argus,  of 
J«ne  23,  1830,  that  he  had  grown  the  Downton,  (a  variety 
of  the  Chili,  crossed  by  Mr.  Knight,)  two  years  in  succes- 
sion, 42-  inches  in  circumference. — He  said,  that  '*  he  picked 
a  pailful  that  morning  of  the  Methven  Scarlet  Strawberry, 
which  had  an  average  circumference  of  three  inches  each. 
Several  measured  four  inches,  and  one  four  and  a  quarter 
inches.  Sixty-three,  divested  of  the  calyx,  weighed  a  pound, 
which  is  a  trifle  more  than  four  to  the  ounce."  Several  of 
the  choicest  kinds  have  been  lately  transplanted  from  the 
London  Society's  Garden  into  the  American  Nurseries, 

30 


WALNUT. 

NOYER.     Juglans. 

FROM  the  circumstance  of  our  having  an  abundance  of 
the  fruit,  from  the  many  species  of  this  genus  of  trees  grow- 
ing spontaneously  around  us,  it  is  presumed  that  the  culture 
of  the  Juglans  regia,  commonly  called  English  Walnut,  or 
Madeira  Nut,  has  been  neglected  by  many  of  our  citizens, 
It  is  a  native  of  Persia,  and  is  cultivated  in  France,  England, 
and  in  other  parts  of  Europe,  both  as  a  fruit  and  timber 
tree.  The  fruit  in  England  is  much  used  in  a  green  state 
for  pickling,  and  also  as^in  adulteration  of  soy  sauce.  In 
France,  an  oil  which  supplies  the  place  of  that  of  Almonds, 
is  made  from  the  kernel.  In  Spain,  they  strew  the  gratings 
of  old  and  hard  nuts,  first  peeled,  into  their  tarts  and  other 
meats.  The  leaves  strewed  on  the  ground,  and  left  there, 
annoy  worms  or  moles,  or  macerated  in  warm  water,  afford 
a  liquor  which  will  destroy  them.  The  unripe  fruit  is  used 
in  medicine  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  worms  in  the 
human  body.  Pliny  says,  '*  the  more  Walnuts  one^  eats, 
with  the  more  ease  will  he  drive  worms  out  of  the  stomach." 

The  timber  is  considered  lighter,  in  proportion  to  its 
strength  and  elasticity,  than  any  other,  and  therefore  com- 
monly used  in  England  for  gun  stocks.  It  is  used  in 
cabinet  work  in  most  parts  of  Europe  ;  the  young  timber  is 
allowed  to  make  the  finest  coloured  work,  but  the  old  to  be 
finest  variegated  for  ornament.  When  propagated  for 
timber,  the  nut  is  sown  ;  but  when  fruit  is  the  object, 
inarching  from  the  branches  of  fruit-bearing  trees,  is  prefer- 
able. Budding  is  also  practised  by  some  ;  the  buds  succeed 
best  when  taken  from  the  base  of  the  annual  shoots ; 
ordinary  sized  buds  from  the  upper  part  of  such  shoots 
generally  fail. 

Walnut  trees  that  have  not  been  grafted  or  budded,  may 
be  induced  to  produce  blossoms  by  ringing  the  bark,  that  is, 
cutting  out  a  streak  of  the  bark  around  the  body  or  main 
branches  of  the  tree.  Walnut  trees  seldom  yield  much  fruit 
until  fifteen  or  twenty  years  old ;  it  is  produced  on  the 


WALNUT.  351 

extremities  of  the  preceding  year's  shoots.  The  trees 
should  stand  forty  or  fifty  feet  apart,  and  they  may  be 
permitted  to  branch  out  in  their  natural  order.  They  need 
but  little  pruning,  merely  to  regulate  any  casual  disorderly 
growth,  to  reduce  over-extending  branches,  and  to  prune  up 
the  low  stragglers. 

Lest  any  of  our  native  Walnuts  should  be  neglected  or 
abandoned1  by  any,  I  annex  a  description  of  the  different 
kinds  : 

Juglans  catharticus,  is  known  under  the  name  of  Butter- 
nut, Oilnut,  and  white  Walnut;  these  nuts  are  used  by  the 
Indians  as  a  medicine. 

Juglans  nigra,  the  black  Walnut,  is  a  tree  of  large  size  ; 
its  fruit  is  known  to  be  excellent. 

Juglans  olivceformis.  Pecan,  or  Illinois  nut,  is  delicious. 
The  nuts  of  Juglans  sulcata,  which  is  called  thick  shell 
bark,  Hickory,  and  Springfield,  and  Gloucester  nut,  are 
large  and  well-tasted.  The  shell  bark  Hickory,  shag 
hark,  or  scaly  hark  Hickory,  Juglans  alba,  is  so  called  on 
account  of  its  bark,  which  is  torn  lengthwise  in  long  loose 
strips,  as  in  J.  sulcata.  The  Juglans  tormentosa,  the  Mucker 
nut,  white  heart  Hickory,  or  common  Hickory,  and  most  of 
the  other  kinds  enumerated,  are  worth  preserving;  or  culti- 
rating  where  there  is  none,  for  its  timber  for  mechanical 
purposes ;  and  that  of  the  Juglans  glabra,  or  Hog  nut,  if 
ttseful.for  brooms,  &c. 


85% 

@M  THE 


AS  INFLUENCED  BY 


CHAM  OF  THE  MOON, 


LEST  the  reader  should  judge,  from  my  introducing  this 
subject,  that  I  am  an  advocate  for  Moon -planting,  in  any 
other  sense  than  in  ascribing  the  various  changes  of  the 
weather  to  the  influence  of  that  great  luminary,  I  would 
here  offer  a  few  observations  in  reference  to  the  practice 
and  prejudices  of  many  persons  in  choosing  the  first  quarter 
of  the  Moon  for  planting  such  vegetables  as  yield  their 
produce  above  the  surface,  as  Cabbage,  &c.  and  the  last 
quarter  or  wane  of  the  Moon  for  such  as  grow  and  yield 
their  produce  chiefly  in  the  earth,  and  below  the  surface,  as 
Potatoes,  &c. 

I  would  first  observe,  that  if  the  Moon  has  any  direct 
influence  over  vegetable  productions,  it  must  operate  in 
many  cases  quite  the  reverse  to  what  these  theorists  gene- 
rally aim  at ;  for  instance,  if  the  earth  and  weather  should 
happen  to  be  dry  in  the  first  week  after  planting  certain 
species  of  seed,  such  would  fail  to  germinate  for  want  of  its 
most  essential  aliment,  moisture  ;  and  in  consequence  of 
such  seeds  laying  dormant  in  the  earth,  until  after  another 
change  of  the  Moon,  if  that  luminary  influences  the  seed  at 
all,  in  such  case  it  must  be  contrary  to  the  objects  of  the 
honest  planter. 

As  I  deem  this  argument  alone  sufficient  to  shake  the 
foundation  of  Moon-planting,  in  the  sense  I  have  described, 
I  shall  at  once  submit  to  the  reader's  attention,  the  following 
observations,  and  table,  from  the  pen  of  the  justly  celebrated 
Dr.  Adam  Clarke.  Some  exceptions,  however,  may  be 
taken  to  his  rules,  with  regard  to  the  wind,  which  does  not 
operate  in  all  places  alike.  For  example,  in  rainy  seasons 
with  us,  the  wind  is  generally  East,  North-East  or  South- 
East,  and  cold  weather  comes  by  a  North- West  wind.  In 
England,  where  these  calculations  were  made,  ij  is  in  SOXZH: 
Aspects  different,. 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  WEATHER.  353 

"  From  my  earliest  childhood  I  was  bred  up  on  a  little 
farm  which  I  was  taught  to  care  for  and  cultivate  ever  since 
I  was  able  to  spring  the  rattle,  use  the  whip,  manage  the 
sickle,  or  handle  the  spade,  and  as  I  found  that  much  of  our 
success  depended  on  a  proper  knowledge  and  management 
of  the  weather,  I  was  led  to  study  it  ever  since  I  was  eight 
years  of  age.  I  believe  meteorology  is  a  natural  science, 
and  one  of  the  first  that  is  studied  ;  and  that  every  child  in 
the  country  makes  untaught,  some  progress  in  it ;  at  least, 
so  it  was  with  me.  I  had  actually  learned,,  by  silent  obser- 
vation, to  form  good  conjectures  concerning  the  coming 
weather,  and  on  this  head,  to  teach  wisdom  to  those  who 
were  perfect,  especially  among  those  who  had  not  been 
obliged,  like  me,  to  watch  earnestly;  that  what  was  so 
necessary  to  the  family  support  should  not  be  spoiled  by  the 
weather  before  it  was  housed. 

Many  a  time,  even  in  tender  youth,  have  I  watched  the 
heavens  with  anxiety,  examined  the  different  appearances  of 
the  morning  and  evening  Sun,  the  phases  of  the  Moon,  the 
scintillation  of  the  stars,  the  course  and  colour  of  the  clouds, 
the  flight  of  the  crow  and  swallow,  the  gambols  of  the  colt, 
the  fluttering  of  the  ducks,  and  the  loud  screams  of  the 
seamew — not  forgetting  the  hue  and  croaking  of  the  frogs. 
From  the  little  knowledge  I  had  derived  from  close  observa- 
tion, I  often  ventured  to  direct  our  agricultural  operations 
in  reference  to  th'e  coming  days,  and  was  seldom  much  mis- 
taken in  my  reckoning. 

About  twenty  years  ago,  a  table  purporting  to  be  the  work 
of  the  late  Dr.  Herschel,  was  variously  published,  professing 
to  perform  prognostics  of  the  weather,  by  the  times  of 
change,  full  and  quarters  of  the  moon.  I  have  carefully 
consulted  this  table  for  years,  and  was  amazed  at  its  general 
accuracy  ;  for  though  long  as  you  have  seen,  engaged  in  the 
study  of  the  weather,  I  never  thought  that  any  rules  could 
be  devised,  liable  to  so  few  exceptions.  I  have  made  a 
little  alteration  in  the  arrangements,  illustrated  it  with  fur- 
ther observations,  and  have  sent  it  to  you  that  you  may 
insert  it,  as  it  has  hitherto  been  confined  generally  to  a  few 
almanacs." 

30* 


354 


f\tr  telling  the  Weather  through  all  the  Lunations  of  each  year,  for  ever. 

This  table  and  the  accompanying  remarks  are  the  result  of  many  year* 
actual  observation ;  the  whole  being  constructed  on  a  due  consideration 
of  the  attraction  of  the  sun  and  moon,  in  their  several  positions  respect- 
ing the  earth,  and  will  by  simple  inspection,  show  the  observer  what 
kind  of  weather  will  most  probably  follow  the  entrance  of  the  moon  into 
any  of  its  quarters,  and  that  so  near  the  truth  as  to  be  seldom  or  never 
found  to  fail. 


INTRODUCTION 


MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 


THE  object  of  this  Calendar  is  to  furnish  in  a  condensed 
form,  monthly  directions  for  the  culture  of  some  plants  not 
previously  mentioned  in  this  work  ;  and  also  to  direct  the 
reader's  attention  to  the  regular  management  of  such  plants 
as  have  been  heretofore  treated  of.  In  pursuit  of  the 
latter  object,  references  will  be  made  to  former  pages,  so  as 
to  exhibit,  at  one  view,  the  business  of  the  garden  in  each 
month  of  the  year.  The  figures  refer  to  the  pages  in  which 
further  directions  may  be  found  relative  to  the  operations 
adverted  to. 

In  page  23  it  has  been  shown,  that  the  directions  accomr 
panying  our  catalogue  may  be  applied  to  all  the  varied  cli- 
mates of  the  United  States,  by  a  minute  observance  of  the 
difference  of  temperature.. 

It  may  be  here  observed,  that  the  soil  is  susceptible  of 
cultiration  three  months  earlier  in  the  remotest  South,  than 
in  the  coldest  part  of  our  Northern  territory ;  the  calendar 
therefore  for  March,  may  be  applied  to  the  middle  of 
January  in  the  warmest  climatei,  and  to  the  middle  of  April 
in  the  coldest;  some  exceptions  to  this  rule  must,  however,  be 
taken  in  the  Southern  States  after  the  three  Spring  months, 
for  the  following  reasons  : 

1.  As  warm  weather  South  is  of  longer  continuance, 
than  in  the  North,  plantations  of  those  species  of  vegetables 
denominated  tender  in  page  19,  may  be  made  in  the  ogeiv 
garden  from  March  to  August. 


356  MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 

2.  Extreme  heat  being  detrimental  to  the  cultivation  of 
many  half-hardy  vegetables,  such  as  Broccoli,  Cauliflower, 
Cabbage,  Celery,  Lettuce,  Radish,  Turnips,  &c.,  these  can 
only  be  cultivated  perfect  in  Spring  and  Autumn^  the  latter 
crops,  therefore,  should  not  be  planted  until  August  or  Sep- 
tember; see  note  to  article  Broccoli  41,  also  57,  62  and  92. 

3.  Many  of  the  half-hardy  class,   as  also  those   desig- 
nated Jicfrdy  in  our  table,  may  be  cultivated  throughout  the 
Winter   months,  by  forwarding   such  as  are  required   for 
early  Spring  use,  after  the  Summer  crops  are  taken  off. 
See  table,  explication,  &c.,  page  19  to  22,  also  page  103. 

In  the  Eastern,  Western  and  Middle  States,  the  annexed 
calendar  will  answer  in  the  order  it  stands,  by  applying 
directions  to  the  beginning  of  the  first  Spring  month,  in  the 
warmest  climates,  and  to  the  latter  end,  in  the  coldest 
climates,  bearing  in  mind  that  where  Summer  is  short,  the 
main  crops  must  follow  the  early,  in  quick  succession,  with 
a  riew  to  their  maturity  before  Winter. 


"PROGNOSTICS  foretoken  most  truly  some  things, 
Of  Summers,  and  Autumn=,  and  Winters,  and  Springs ; 
By  them  from  the  past  we  may  all  ascertain 
The  future,  respecting  the  winds  and  the  rain." 


VEGETABLE    DEPARTMENT. 

IT  is  customary  at  this  season  of  the  year,  with  all  prudent 
men  to  look  around  them,  and  endeavour  to  ascertain  the 
results  of  their  industry  throughout  the  past  year,  in  order  to 
make  improved  arrangements  for  the  future.  The  mere 
gardener,  having  no  complicated  accounts  to  adjust,  may 


[January.  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.       *  357 

occupy  his  time  to  valuable  purposes.  If  he  be  not  a  book- 
reader,  he  should  be  a  book-keeper,  (see  page  8,)  and  he 
should  frequently  take  a  survey  of  his  former  practices  and 
those  of  his  acquaintances,  with  a  view  to  improve  on  every 
thing  he  has  done,  or  seen  done.  If  he  consults  writers  on 
Horticulture,  he  should  do  as  the  author  has  endeavoured 
to  do  in  preparing  this  work  for  the  press ;  not  adopt 
the  mere  theory  of  a  subject,  nor  indulge  in  speculative 
ideas,  nor  even  tread  in  the  steps  of  others,  but  endeavour 
to  erect  his  edifice  of  knowledge  upon  a  good  settled  foun- 
dation. In  all  his  pursuits,  whether  he  attempts  to  follow 
the  example  of  practical  and  exemplary  men,  hear  lectures, 
or  consult  any  authors  on  the  subject,  he  should  do  as  every 
sensible  man  does  at  his  daily  meals,  take  that  which  suits 
him  best,  and  leave  the  residue  for  others.  If  this 
work  should  be  considered  worth  an  annual  perusal,  he  may 
read  the  general  remarks  in  this  month,  (January,)  and 
make  a  memorandum  of  such  things  as  may  be  obtained  at 
a  leisure  time,  in  preference  to  driving  it  off  till  it  is  wanted- 
I  shall  endeavour  to  make  my  Calendar  serve  as  an  index  to 
the  book,  and  in  pursuit  of  my  object,  shall  begin  at  page 
1  of  the  general  remarks,  which  suggests,  that  if  a  man  has 
a  garden  to  form,  he  will  require  fencing  materials.  If  these 
should  be  already  at  hand,  every  gardener  should  provide 
manures,  ingredients  for  the  destruction  of  insects,  drilling 
machines,  and  other  tools ;  poles  or  rods  for  the  support  of 
such  Beans,  Peas,  or  other  climbing  plants  which  he  may 
intend  to  cultivate  ;  and  if  he  intend  to  use  hot-beds,  or 
forcing  frames,  he  should  make  arrangements  to  get  compost 
and  heating  materials,  in  time  for  the  work  to  be  performed 
in  the  next  month.  If  he  depends  on  this  book  for  infor- 
mation, he  may  read  the  general  remarks  from  page  7  to 
23,  and  also  from  pages  101  to  120,  on  Forcing  Vegetables* 

FLOWER    DEPARTMENT. 

Having  shown  in  page  217,  that  Heat,  Air,  and  Water,  are 
the  food  of  plants,  and  necessary  to  the  preservation  of 
their  health  and  life,  if  given  in  due  proportion  according 


359  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  [January: 

to  circumstances,  I  would,  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
especially,  salute  the  gardener  with  a  "be  ye  temperate  in 
all  things." 

Temperance  in  the  use  of  water,  is  of  the  utmost  impor. 
tance  in  the  Winter  season,  for  several  reasons  which  may 
be  given.  In  the  first  place,  water  will  attract  frost,  and, 
therefore,  should  be  used  very  sparingly  in  frosty  weather ; 
another  consideration  is,  that  in  the  absence  of  heat  and 
air,  plants  cannot  absorb  much  moisture,  and  consequently 
must  become  injured  from  excessive  watering  ;  and  it  may 
be  observed  further,  that  it  is  not  prudent  to  keep  plants  in 
an  extremely  vigorous  state,  until  the  season  arrives  when 
the  external  air  is  soft  and  salubrious ;  they  can  then  have 
a  due  proportion  of  heat,,  air,  and  moisture  at  the  same  time- 
Perhaps  the  next  important  point  to  be  attended  to  at 
this  time  is,  to  see  that  the  greenhouse,  or  room,  in  which 
plants  are  intended  to  be  preserved,  is  calculated  for  the 
purpose.  The  room  should  be  light  and  airy,  and  yet  so 
secure  as  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  external  cold  air,  or  the 
departure  of  warm  air  in  the  night  season. 

A  Fahrenheit  thermometer  is  indispensable  in  a  green- 
house, or  room,  where  plants  are  kept,  and  the  temperature 
should  be  always  up  as  nearly  as  possible  to  40  degrees,  in 
the  absence  of  the  Sun.  If  the  gardener  retire  to  rest  in  this 
variable  climate,  leaving  the  mercury  much  below  40,  he 
may  expect  to  find  his  plants  frozen  in  the  morning. 

A  good  brick  flue  is  better  calculated  for  heating  a  small 
greenhouse,  than  any  other  method  ;  because  after  a  suffi- 
cient fire  has  been  made  to  heat  the  bricks  thoroughly,  they 
vfill  retain  the  heat  through  a  Winter  night,  whereas  an 
iron  stove  with  its  metal  pipes  will  cool  as  the  fire  gets  low, 
and  expose  the  plants  to  cold,  towards  morning,  which  is 
the  time  they  most  need  protection.  The  heat  from  iron  is 
moreover  too  dry  and  parching,  while  an  evaporation  or 
salubrious  steam  may  be  raised  from  bricks,  by  sprinkling 
the  flue  occasionally,  which  would  operate  on  the  plants 
similar  to  healthful  dew  drops. 

At  this  season  of  the  year  especially,  sitting-rooms,  or 
parlours,  are  heated  in  the  daytime  to  full  20  degree* 


[February.  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.       * 

higher  than  what  is  necessary  for  the  preservation  of  plants ; 
consequently,  as  the  heat  decreases  in  the  night  season, 
plants  often  get  injured,  unless  a  fire  is  kept  up.  Air  must 
be  admitted  to  plants  kept  in  this  way,  at  all  opportunities; 
and  more  water  will  be  necessary  for  such  plants,  than 
those  kept  in  a  greenhouse  would  require.  For  the  manage, 
ment  of  bulbous  roots,  in  pots  or  glasses,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  page  212. 


"A  cold  sour  Autumn,  they  sternly  maintain, 
A  long  severe  Winter  will  bring  in  its  train ; 
If  Summer  and  Autumn  be  both  dry  and  warm, 
Calm  opens  the  Winter, — it  closes  in  storm." 


VEGETABLE    DEPARTMENT. 

Although  stern  Winter,  with  its  ice-bound  chains,  exerts 
its  influence  over  the  soil,  the  gardener  may  find  employment 
preparatory  to  commencing  his  operations  of  ploughing  and 
planting,  as  the  year  progresses.  Perhaps  the  most  impor- 
tant business  at  this  season,  is  to  collect  plenty  of  manure  ; 
next  to  this,  the  gardener,  who  intends  to  raise  early  plants 
for  forcing  or  otherwise,  should  see  that  his  hot-bed  frames 
are  in  good  repair  and  ready  for  use  ;  he  should  also  repair 
his  sashes,  and  make  straw  mats  to  cover  them  with.  In 
preparing  dung  or  other  heating  materials  for  hot-beds,  or 
forcing  pits,  let  it  be  kept  secure  from  heavy  falls  of  snow  or 
rain,  and  frequently  turned  over  preparatory  to  its  being 
made  into  a  bed. 

Previous  to  making  hot-beds,  select  a  situation  that  is 
well  protected  by  a  close  fence  or  wall,  and  not  in  any  way 
connected  with  any  building  calculated  to  harbour  rats, 
mice,  moles,  &c.,  which  are  very  apt  to  take  up  their  abode 
in  warm  dung,  to  the  great  injury  and  sometimes  the 
destruction  of  the  beds.  It  is  necessary  that  the  founda- 
tion for  the  beds  be  drily  situated,  and  not  liable  to  be  inun- 
dated with  water  from  melted  snow,  &c.  When  all  is  pre- 
pared as  directed,  page  101  to  106,  begin  to  sow  Cabbage* 


360  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  [February* 

Egg-plant,  Lettuce,  and  Tomato  seed,  101 ;  force  Asparagus, 
105;  Kidney  Beans,  107 ;  Cucumbers,  109 ;  plant  Peas,  120  ; 
Potatoes,  121 ;  sow  Radish  seed,  121.  In  cold  beds  well 
protected,  plant  Broad  Beans,  107;  sow  Cabbage  seed,  45. 

After  the  seeds  are  sown,  the  beds  will  require  constant 
attention;  cover  up  well  in  cold  nights,  and  give  air  at  all 
opportunities,  taking  care  to  regulate  the  heat  in  the  beds, 
as  directed  under'the  different  heads,  from  page  103  to  125. 
If  the  heat  be  excessive,  it  must  be  decreased  as  directed, 
page  105,  and  if  it  should  become  necessary  to  let  off  steam 
in  cold  weather,  care  must  be  taken  to  cover  the  apertures 
sufficiently  to  keep  out  frosty  air.  Give  air  at  all  oppor- 
tunities to  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  and  such  other 
plants  as  may  be  in  frames,  of  last  year's  sowing. 

FLOWfcR    DEPARTMENT. 

Having  in  the  previous  month  discussed  some  important 
points  relative-to  the  general  care  of  plants,  I  now  proceed 
to  notice  a  few  of  those  kinds  that  require  attention  at  this 
particular  season  : 

Camellias,  or  Japan  Roses. — There  are  numerous 
varieties  of  this  valuable  class  of,  plants,  exhibiting  every 
shade  in  succession,  from  desp  crimson  to  the  purest  white  ; 
in  some  imperceptibly  blended,  in  others  strikingly  con- 
trasted. They  are  unrivalled  objects  of  beauty  from 
October  to  May,  being  se^t  in  a  foliage  of  fine  glossy  verdure. 

Double  Camellias  are  generally  propagated  on  stocks  of 
the  single,  which  are  procured  by  planting  cuttings  of  the 
young  shoots  in  light  mould  under  bell  glasses  ;  on  these, 
when  grown  to  a  sufficient  size,  are  inarched  the  finer  kinds 
of  double.  Sometimes  these  latter  are  also  struck  by  cut- 
tings ;  but  as  their  progress  by  such  method  is  generally 
slow  and  uncertain,  it  is  seldom  resorted  to.  These  valuable 
plants  are  too  often  injured  by  amateurs,  from  misapplied 
care  bestowed  upon  them,  so  that  their  whole  compensation 
and  enjoyment  is  reduced  to  the  mere  possession  of  a  hand- 
some green  shrub.  Destined  from  the  extreme  beauty  and 
unrivalled  delicacy  of  their  flowers  to  become  the  chief  pride 


February.]  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  361 

and  ornameRt  of  the  greenhouse  and  drawing-room  in  the 
Winter  season,  the  Camellias  should  have  a  fair  chance 
given  them  to  exhibit  their  fine  bloom  in  perfection. 

It  should  be  observed,  lhat  Camellias  are  by  no  means 
tender  shrubs,  but  require  to  be  kept  in  a  medium  even 
temperature,  and  they  generally  succeed  best  in  a  green- 
house, where  the  atmosphere  is  damp.  As  the  buds  begin 
to  swell,  they  will  require  more  water  than  at  any  other 
time,  which  may  be  applied  from  the  rose  of  a  watering  pot, 
or  syringe,  while  in  bud,  but  when  in  blossom  it  should  be 
applied  to  the  earth.  s 

If  Camellias  be  kept  where  there  is  a  dry  air,  occasioned 
from  fire  heat,  they  must  have  plenty  of  the  natural  air  at 
all  opportunities,  or  the  buds  will  become  brown  and  fall 
off;  and  if  they  are  subjected  to  extreme  cold  at  night, 
Arhich  is  too  frequently  the  case,  when  kept  in  rooms  of  an 
uneven  temperature,  premature  decay  of  the  buds  will 
inevitably  be  the  consequence. 

To  preserve  Camellias  in  healthy  condition,  they  should 
be  kept  in  fresh,  moderately  light  soil,  consisting  of  sandy 
loam  taken  from  under  grass  sods,  and  leaf  mould  well 
mixed  ;  nothing  being  more  injurious  to  them  than  over- 
potting  ;  they  should  not  be  shifted  into  larger  pots,  until 
the  projection  of  the  roots  show  evidently  that  they  are  iu 
need  of  it.  Few  plants  bear  privation  of  sunshine  in  Sum- 
mer better  than  these  ;  they  should,  however,  be  kept  in  an 
open  situation,  where  they  can  have  a  full  share  of  light 
and  air. 

Such  bulbous  roots  as  may  be  in  progress  of  blooming, 
will  require  attention  this  month  ;  turn  them  frequently  to 
the  light,  as  recommended  in  page  212,  and  increase  the 
supplies  of  water  as  they  advance  towards  perfection. 

Attend  to  Campanula  Pyramidalis,  Hepeticas,  Mimu- 
lus,  Senecif*,  and  herbaceous  plants  in  general  ;  those 
not  in  bud  should  be  watered  very  sparingly.  Shrubby 
plants,  especially  those  which  bud  and  blossom  in  the  Win- 
ter, and  early  part  of  the  Spring,  as  the  several  varieties  of 
Acacias,  Azeleas,  Calceolarias,  Correas,  Coronillas,  Daph- 
nes, Diosmas,  Eupatoriums,  Eutaxias,  Fuchsias,  Gnidias, 

31 


MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  [February. 

Heaths,  Laurustinuses,  Lemon  trees,  Rhododendrons, 
Orange  trees,  &c.,  will  require  water  once  or  twice  a  week, 
according  to  circumstances,  and  air  should  be  given  at  all 
opportunities,  or  the  plants  will  not  blossom  in  perfection. 

For  the  benefit  of  such  as  may  wish  to  raise  early  plants 
from  seed,  or  to  force  Dahlia  or  other  roots,  I  subjoin  the 
following  brief  directions  for  making  a  small  hot-bed  r  In  a 
border  exposed  to  tl*e  morning  sun,  let  a  pit  be  dug  about 
thirty  inches  deeps  five  feet  wide,  and  six  long  ;  this  will 
admit  of  two  sashes,  each  three  feet  by  five.  A  frame  ©f 
suitable  dimensions  wray  be  made  of  plank  ;  the  back  plank 
may  be  two  feet  wide,  and  the  end  ones  sloped  so  as  to 
make  a  fifteen  inch  plank  do  for  the  front.  The  frame 
being  made,  set  it  over  the  pit,  and  then  get  a  load  of  horse 
dung,  fresh  from  the  livery  stables,  (not  such  as  has  lain 
long,  or  may  have  been  soddened  with  water,)  spread  the 
dung  evenly  in  the  pit  until  full,  then  put  into  the  frame 
light  rich  mould,  or  compost,  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve 
inches,  and  the  seed  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  it  gets  warm* 
It  may  be  necessary  to  observe,  that  in  making  hot-beds, 
the  quantity  of  top  mould  should  be  regulated  according  to 
the  substance  of  manure  in  the  pit,  and  this  may  vary 
according  to  the  use  the  beds  are  intended  for,  or  to  other 
circumstances.  After  the  seeds  are  sown,  the  beds  will 
require  constant  attention  ;  cover  up  warm  in  cold  nights, 
and  give  air  at  all  opportunities,  to  prevent  the  plants  from 
growing  weak. 

As  we  are  subject  to*  North- West  winds  at  this  season, 
which  produce  extreme  freezing,  it  will  be  better  to  delay 
the  making  of  hot-beds  to  the  first  week  in  March,  at  which 
time  opportunities  will  frequently  offer  of  giving  plants  a 
tolerable  share  of  salubrious  air,  which  is  indispensable  to 
their  preservation. 

-^ 

FRUIT  DEPARTMENT. 

With  a  view  to  give  all  attention  to  culture  as  the  season 
advances,  the  gardener  should  look  over  his  hardy  fruit  tre«s, 
and  hardy  vines,  and  commence  pruning  them,  by  cutting 


MONTHLY   CALKNDAg.  363 

off  all  dtad  and  superfluous  branches ;  he  may  also  clean 
trees  from  moss  and  canker,  and  search  for  the  nests  of 
insects,  with  a  view  to  destroy  them  while  in  a  torpid  state, 
to  prevent  their  spreading,  246.  If  he  has  trellises,  or  any 
implements  of  husbandry  out  of  repair,  be  should  embrace 
(he  most  favourable  opportunities  of  putting  them  in  good 
-condition,  and  of  repairing  his  fences,  &c. 

The  latter  end  of  this  month  is  a  good  time  to  prune 
grape  vines,  252. 

Provide  shreds  or  strips  of  woollen  cloth  about  half  an 
inch  wide,  or  list  from  broad  cloth,  which  is  still  better,  also 
small  sharp  pointed  lath  nails  to  use  in  training  fruit  trees, 
&c»,  next  month, 

If  any  removals  are  contemplated,  or  fresh  trees,  vines,  or 
shrubs  required,  they  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  the  ground 
caa  be  brought  into  good  condition,  241.  311.  319  and  367 


'If  the  Sun  appear  dim,  surrounded  with  haze, 
And  his  disk  ill  defined,  and  faded  his  rays;: — 
2f  white  at  his  setting — of  powej*  if  shorn, 
The  signs  are  all  certain,  there'll  soon  be  a  stornj." 


VEGETABLE     DEPARTMENT. 

This  month  affords  considerable  employment  to  an 
industrious  gardener.  Manure  may  be  drawn  on  the  ground 
and  distributed  in  heaps,  ready  to  spread,  see  page  17;  and 
the  hot-beds  and  forcing  frames  will  require  constant  atten- 
tion. Cover  up  warm  in  cold  nights,  and  give  additional 
air  as  t^e  season  progresses,  to  prevent  the  plants  growing 
weak,  taking  care  to  regulate  the  heat  as  directed  for  the 
different  kinds  of  vegetables.  If  any  additional  frames  are 
to  be  put  down  this  month,  either  for  forcing  or  forwarding 
vegetables,  they  should  be  attended  to  in  time,  as  directed. 
Begin  the  work  of  the  Kitchen  garden  as  soon  as  the  earth  can 


364  MONTHLY    CALENDAR 

be  brought  into  good  condition, and  tran splant  hardy  Lettuc* 
plants,  62;  dress  Artichoke  beds,  26;  Asparagus,  30; 
Rhubarb,  79  ;  Sea-Kale,  83  ;  and  prepare  to  make  new 
plantations  of  these  vegetables.  Plant  Broad  Beans,  31; 
and  107;  Rape,  39$  plant  Cauliflower  plants  underhand 
glasses,  43  and  103 ;  sow  Cabbage  seed,  46  and  101  ;  Car- 
rot, 49;  Celery,  51;  plant  Chives,  66;  Cucumber,  109  j 
sow  Egg-plant  seed,  57  ;  plant  Horse  Radish  59  ;  Leek,  61  ; 
Lettuce,  62;  plant  Melon  seed,  119;  sow  Onion,  67  ;  Parsley, 
69;  Parsnip,  70  ;  Pepper,  71  ;  plant  Peas,  72;  Potatoes, 
121  ;  sow  Radish  seed,  77  and  121  ;  plant  Rocambole,  77  ; 
Rhubarb,  78;  Salsify,  80-;  Scorzonera,  81 ;  Sea  Kale,  82; 
Skirret,  84  ;  sow  Spinach  seed,  86;  Tomatoe,  88  and  123j 
Turnip  seed,  91  ;  prepare  to  make  Hop  plantations,  126  ; 
Herbs,  94  to  96.  Plant  esculents  for  seed,  beginning  with 
the  hardiest  kinds;  raise  up  and  plant  Cabbage  stumps,  &c. 
to  produce  greens  early  for  the  table.  In  the  course  of  this 
month  every  thing  should  be  forwarded  relative  to  the  cul- 
tivation and  preparation  of  the  ground,  by  levelling  such  as 
may  have  lain  in  ridges  through  the  Winter,  and  by  manur- 
ing and  digging  the  soil  generally,  preparatory  to  sowing, 
and  planting  it  early  in  next  Month. 

FLOWER  DEPARTMENT. 

As  the  Spring  progresses,  the  external  air  will  be  soft 
and  salubrious  ;  at  which  time  it  should  be  freely  admitted 
to  plants  kept  in  rooms  and  greenhouses.  In  proportion,  as 
the  plants  get  air,  they  should  have  water  applied  from  the 
rose  of  a  watering  pot. 

Monthly  Roses  will,  require  attention  this  month.  It 
should  be  recollected,  that  it  is  from  the  young  wood  of  these 
plants  that  buds  are  to  be  expected ;  their  growth  should, 
therefore,  be  encouraged,  by  admitting  sun  and  air  a.t  alj 
opportunities,  and  water  when  necessary. 

Primulas. — There  are  several  species  of  plants  under 
this  name,  which  exhibit  their  blossoms  in  March  and  April  J 
some  of  which  are  very  beautiful,  as  the  Polyanthus, 
Knglish  Spring  Flowers,  Auricula,  &c. ;  but  I  would  BOW 


March,.]  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  365 

direct  the  reader's  attention  to  the  Chinese  varieties,  some 
of  which  are  pure  white,  and  others  of  a  lilac  colour.  They 
are  first  raised  from  seed  sown  in  the  Spring,  and  will  keep 
two  or  three  years. 

Plants  that  are  full  grown,  will  commence  blooming  in 
December,  and  continue  to  produce  umbels  of  flowers  for 
five  or  six  months,  if  well  attended  to  ;  they  are  generally 
in  their  prime  this  month,  at  which  time  a  little  water  should 
be  applied  to  the  earth  about  twice  a  week. 

Many  species  and  varieties  of  seeds  may  be  sown  this 
month  in  hot  beds,  prepared  as  directed  under  the  head 
February.  362. 

Auricula,  Polyanthus,  and  all  other  species  of  Primula 
seed,  should  now  be  sown.  Mignonette,  Ten  Week  Stock, 
and  Dahlia  seed,  from  choice  varieties,  may  also  be  sown 
in  pots,  and  care  should  be  taken  when  the  plants  are  up, 
that  they  be  not  injured  by  excess  of  moisture.  220. 

There  are  some  splendid  varieties  of  the  Schizamhus 
which  deserve  attention  at  an  early  season.  They  are 
rather  difficult  of  cultivation  in  pots,  being  apt  to  suffer  by 
excess  of  heat  or  moisture;  and  often,  when  in  full  bloom, 
die  off  suddenly  by  decays  at  the  base  of  the  stem.  No 
plants  will,  however,  more  amply  repay  all  the  care  and 
trouble  that  may  be  bestowed  on  them,  than  those  of  the 
elegant  genus  Schizanthus.  The  best  soil  for  them  is  loam, 
and  leaf  mould,  with  a  small  portion  of  sand.  They 
should  be  repotted  as  often  as  the  pots  are  filled  with  roots, 
till  they  come  into  full  flower. 

AH  the  different  varieties  of  tender  annual,  biennial,  and 
perennial  flower  seeds,  designated  thus  §  and  thus  t  in  our 
catalogues,  pages  136  and  147,  may  be  sown  this  month  in 
hot-beds,  or  in  pots  kept  in  the  greenhouse. 

Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  and  other  bulbs  in  glasses,  must 
have  the  water  shifted  every  week,  and  the  glasses  should 
be  thoroughly  washed  every  two  or  three  weeks,  213 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  roots  of  Amaryllis  for* 
mosissima,  Gladiolus  psitacinna,  Tiger  flowers,  Tuberoses, 
and  such  other  bulbs  as  may  have  been  preserved  dry 
through  the  winter,  may  now  be  planted  in  pots  and  kept 

31* 


366  MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  [March. 

in  a  greenhouse  or  light  room,  or  else  plunged  in  a  hot  bed. 
— Those  who  have  no  such  conveniences  may,  however, 
delay  the  planting  of  sound  bulbs,  until  the  weather  will 
admit  of  their  being  planted  in  warm  borders. 

Dahlia  roots  should  now  be  plunged  in  a  hot-bed,  to 
forward  them,  with  a  view  to  their  being  separated,  as  soon 
as  the  eyes  are  discernible,  196. 


FRUIT  DEPARTMENT. 

If  the  weather  be  mild  this  month,  considerable  work 
may  be  done  in  the  fruit  garden  and  orchard,  before  the 
ground  can  be  brought  into  suitable  condition  for  ploughing^ 
digging,  or  planting. 

Prune  Grape  Vines  ;  but  withhold  the  knife,  until  you 
have  surveyed  the  plant,  and  selected  a  full  supply  of  the 
last  Summer  shoots  at  regular  distances  from  each  other, 
for  bearers  the  coming  Summer  ;  cut  out  the  superabundant, 
wjth  part  of  most  of  the  last  year's  bearers,  and  naked 
wood.  Prune  so  that  a  young  shoot  terminate  each  branch, 
and  shorten  the  reserved  shoots;  the  smallest  to  three  or 
four  joints,  and  the  strong  ones  to  ten  or  twelve.  Fasten 
the  vines  to  trellises  as  soon  as  pruned,  with  list,  or  shreds 
of  woollen  cloth,  arranging  the  general  branches  from  ten 
to  twelve  inches  distance,  more  or  less,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  vines  and  space  allotted  for  them  to  grow. — See 
Observations  on  Training  and  Pruning,  page  251;  also, 
article  Grape  Vine,  293  to  306. 

Prune  Apple  trees,  2.65  ;  Cherry,  277  ;  Pear,  329  ;  Plum 
338  ;  Quince,  344  ;  also,  Currant  bushes,  264  ;  Gooseberry, 
292 ;  cutting  out  all  crowded  branches,  worn  out  bearers 
and  decayed  wood. 

Cut  out  and  destroy  all  the  old  stems  of  Raspberry  shrubs, 
reserve  three  or  four  of  the  strongest  young  shoots  on  each 
stool ;  shorten  them  at  the  top,  and  take  away  all  othersj 
the  strqngest  of  which  may  be  transplanted  to  form  a  new 
bed,  346 

In  transplanting  trees  care  should  be  taken  that  the  col- 
J^ar,  or  that  part  from, which  emanates  the  main  roots,  be  not 


April.]  MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  367^ 

inserted  too  deep  in  the  soil,  as  this  injures  the  bark,  and 
consequently  impedes  the  natural  circulation  of  the  juices. 
A  medium  sized  tree  may  be  planted  one  inch  deeper  than 
it  was  in  the  nursery  bed,  and  the  largest  should  not  exceed- 
two  or  three  inches.  241.  311.  319.  337. 

Plant  cuttings  and  suckers  of  Gooseberries  and  Currants  ; 
also,  of  such  fruit  trees  as  produce  them,  in  order  to  raise 
stocks  to  bud  and  graft  upon  ;  fruit  stones  and  kernels  may 
be  also  sown  for  the  same  purpose. 

Young  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines  may  be  obtained  at  public 
nurseries,  in  different  stages  of  growth,  suited  for  general 
planting  ;  and  others  sufficiently  advanced  for  immediate 
bearers  ;  these  should  be  carefully  taken  up,  and  replanted; 
For  full  information  on  this  subject,  the  reader  is  referred 
to  the  article  "  on  the  choice  of  fruit  trees  in  the  nursery," 
259. 


'"The  state  of  the  icind  augurs  rain,  as  they  say; — 
When  restless  in  changes,  now  this,  now  that  way, , 
Or  hollow,  comes  whistling  plaintively  by, 
The  rain  it  betokens  is  probably  nigh." 


VEGETABLE  DEPARTMENT. 

This  is  certainly  the  most  important  month  in  the  year 
for  gardening  operations.  Finish  as  early  as  possible  the 
planting  of  esculents  for  seed,  and  see  that  all  plants  of  the 
same  genus  are  remote  from  each  other,  or  they  will  adul- 
terate. All  the  soil  of  a  garden  should  be  dug  or  ploughed 
this  month  if  possible,,  and  some  of  the  early  crops  sown 
last  month  will  require  hoeing  and  weeding. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  have  good  sound  seeds,  a.« 
this  is  a  matter  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  for  want  of 
which,  many  are  disappointed  in  their  principal  crops 
when  too  late  to  sow  again.  It  is  also  a  material  considera- 
tion to  have  the  best  varieties  both  of  seeds  and  plants  of 
the  respective  kinds.  See  pages  17  and  18. 


368  MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  [April. 

If  not  done  last  month,  make  plantations  of  Artichokes, 
24 ;  Asparagus,  27 ;  Beans,  vicia  faba,  31  ;  towards  the 
end  of  the  month,  plant  Beans,  Phaseolus,  33  and  34  ;  plant 
Beet  seed,  36 ;  sow  late  kinds  of  Broccoli  seed,  40  ;  not 
Cape  Broccoli  until  May  ;  seed  of  Cabbage  for  Summer 
use,  46 ;  Cardoon,  48  ;  plant  Carrot,  49 ;  Celery,  50  ;  sow 
Cress  seed,  54;  plant  Cucumber,  112;  sow  Endive,  58; 
plant  Horse  Radish,  59 ;  plant  Indian  Corn,  60,  Jerusalem 
Artichokes,  60;  sow  Leek  seed,  61;  Lettuce  seed,  62; 
plant  Melon,  119  ;  sow  Mustard  seed,  65;  plant  Nasturtium, 
66  ;  sow  Onion  seed,  67  ;  Parsley,  69  ;  Parsnip,  70 ;  plant 
Peas,  72;  Potatoes,  74;  Sweet  Potatoes,  75;  Pumpkins, 
76  ;  sow  Radish  seed,  77  ;  plant  Rocambole,  77 ;  Rhubarb, 
78  ;  Salsify,  80  ;  Scorzonera,  81  ;  Sea-Kale,  82  ;  sow  Skir- 
ret,  84 ;  Spinach,  86  ;  plant  Squash,  87  ;  Totnatoe,  88  and 
101 ;  Turnip  seed  92  ;  Navet  or  French  Turnip,  variety  escu- 
lenta,  47  ;  make  Hop  plantations,  126.  Sow  the  seeds  of 
Angelica,  Anise,  Basil,  Burnet,  Boreage,  Caraway,  Chervil, 
Clary,  Coriander,  Dill,  Fennel,  Pot  Marigold,  Sweet  Mar- 
joram, Patience  Dock,  Sorrel,  Summer  Savory,  Smallage, 
Thyme,  Bene,  Boneset,  Catnep,  Celandine,  Saffron,  and 
such  other  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs  as  may 
be  required.  Also  separate  and  transplant  all  kinds  of  per- 
ennial Herb  roots,  such  as  Mint,  Pennyroyal,  Sage,  Winter 
Savory,  Tarragon,  and  Medicinal  Herbs  in  general,  as 
described  page  94  to  96.  If  not  done  last  month,  attend  to 
the  Spring  dressing  of  Artichoke  beds,  26  ;  Asparagus,  30  ; 
Rhubarb,  79  ;  Sea-Kale,  83. 

Besides  the  work  of  sowing  and  planting  the  various 
kinds  of  seeds  above  enumerated,  all  the  strongest  plants  of 
Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  and  Lettuce,  must  be  taken  from  the 
hot-beds  and  frames,  and  transplanted  into  the  regular  beds* 
in  the  open  garden.  Attend  to  such  other  business  in  this 
department  as  was  left  undone  last  month,  and  see  that  th© 
garden  be  kept  neat  and  free  from  weeds. 

FLOWER    DEPARTMENT, 

This  is  the  most  important  month  in  the  year  for  garden- 
ing operations.  If  not  done  towards  the  end  of  the  last  month 


April]  MONTHLY    CALENDAR; 

the  covering  must  be  taken  from  hardy  flowering  plants, 
early  in  this  month,  and  the  beds  and  borders  attended  to 
as  directed,  pages  140  and  155  ;  at  the  same  time,  clip  edg- 
ings of  box,  and  clean,  relay,  or  make  new  gravel  walks, 
&c.,  133  ;  prune  and  transplant  flowering  shrubs,  156  and 
160 ;  transplant  also  hardy  herbaceous  plants,  152. 

Sow  flower  seeds  ;  the  hardie'st  may  be  sown  in  the  open 
borders,  and  the  tender  in  the  beds,  141  to  150. 

All  the  soil  of  a  garden  should  be  dug  this  month,  if  pos-» 
sible,  and  pulverized  as  directed,  141  and  180. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  look  over  all  the  greenhouse  plant* 
in  the  early  part  of  this  month;  let  them  be  deprived  of 
dead  wood,  if  any,  by  a  careful  pruning;  at  the  same  time 
take  oft*  all  yellow  leaves ;  the  earth  at  the  top  of  the  pots- 
should  be  loosened,  so  as  to  admit  the  sun  and  air  to  thfr 
roots  of  the  plants,  217  to  219 

If  insects  prevail  on  roses  or  other  plants,  a  fumigation 
with  tobacco  will  be  necessary. 

Bulbous   roots  will  require   some   attention    this   month  ; 
those  in  bloom  in  the  garden  should  be  tied  up  to   wires  or 
small    sticks  ;     and  those  kept   inside  should  be  watered  in. 
proportion  as  they  get  heat  and  air. 

The  Calla,  or  Ethiopian  Lily,  and  the  different  varieties 
of  Rhododendrons,  will  need  frequent  watering  while  in  bud 
and  blossom. 

Air  must  be  admitted  freely  to  all  greenhouse  plants 
towards  the  end  of  this  month,  in  order  to  prepare  them  for 
the  exposure  of  the  open  garden  next  month. 

For  the  method, of  managing  Dahlia  roots,  see  196  ;  pre- 
pare to  plant  tender  bulbous  roots,  towards  the  end  of  this, 
or  early  in  the  next  month.  The  following  should  be  for- 
warded in  pots,  which  may  be  kept  in  a  greenhouse  or  warm 
room,  or  they  may  be  plunged  in  a, hot-bed  ;  Amaryllises, 
183;  Gladioluses,  198;  Lilies,  202 ;  Tuberoses  210;  Tiger 
flowers,  211. 

Hydrangeas,  Pomegranates,  Verbenas,  and  other  decidu- 
ous shrubby  plants,  should  be  cultivated  early  in  this  month 
to  promote  the  production  of  leaf  and  flower  buds. 

Biennial  seeds,  such  as  Wall-flower   and   Stock  Gilly». 


370  MONTHLY     CALEKDA.R.  [April. 

flower ;  also  all  kinds  of  tender  perennials  should  be  sown 
this  month,  if  not  previously  done  in  the  greenhouse,  or  in 
hot-beds,  141,  150  and  220. 

For  an  exhibition  of  the  order  of  the  flowering  tribe  m 
this  month  and  the  next,  the  reader  is  referred  to  an  article 
entitled  the  Beauties  of  April  and  May,  pages  170  to  178. 

FRUIT     DEPARTMENT, 

Finish  pruning  hardy  fruit  trees  the  early  part  of  this 
month,  also  Apricot,  273  ;  Almond,  276  ;  Fig,  285  ;  Mul- 
berry,, 308;  Nectarine,  312;  Peach,  322;  not  forgetting 
any  other  of.  those  trees,  vines  and  shrubs  which  were  left 
undone  last  month. 

Prepare  the  ground  for  planting,  by  digging,  trenching, 
and  manuring,  either  generally  or  in  such  particular  places 
as  are  allotted  for  the  trees  to  be  planted  in,  240, 

This  is  the  most  proper  season  for  planting  the  Apricot, 
Almond,  Fig,  Grape,  Mulberry,  Nectarine,  Peach,  and  all 
such  fruit  trees,  vines,  or  shrubs  as  originated  in  warm 
climates,  241, 31 1, 319.  Apple,  Cherry,  Pear,  Plum,  Quince 
and  other  hardy  fruit  trees,  may  also  be  planted  with  safety 
early  in  this  month;  but  Autumn  is  considered  the  most 
favorable  seasoji  for  planting  all  trees,  vines,  or  shrubs  of 
Northern  latitude,  242,  337. 

Those  who  have  variety  of  soil  should  accommodate  all 
the  varied  kinds  of  fruit  to  that  which  has  been  proved  to  be 
the  best  adapted  to  its  culture  ;  and  due  attention  should  be 
paid  to  situation  and  aspect,  in  planting  a  fruit  garden  or 
orchard,  243. 

Use  means  to  destroy  insects  while  in  a  torpid  state,  to 
prevent  their  spreading,  and  also  the  larvae  of  insects  ;  direc- 
tions for  which  will  be  found  in  the  article  headed 
£' observations  on  insects,  and  diseases  to  which  fruit  trees 
are  liable,"  244. 

Grafting  may  be  performed  on  fruit  trees  in  general  257; 
Prune  and  plant  Currant  bushes,  284 ;  Filbert,  287  ; 
Gooseberry,  292;  Raspberry,  345.  Plant  cuttings  and 
suckers  from  these  shrubs ;  also  of  such  trees  as  produce 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  371 

them,  in  order  to  get  a  supply  of  stocks  to  bud  and  graft 
upon,  as  well  as  some  for  bearing.  Fruit  stones  and  ker- 
nels of  various  kinds  may  be  sown  for  the  same  purpose. 

This  is  a  good  season  to  plant  cuttings  of  Grape  Vines, 
296  and  300  ;  and  tender  varieties  that  were  lain  down  in 
Autumn,  should  be  taken  up,  and  fastened  to  trellises  or 
stakes,  299. 

Strawberry  beds  that  were  protected  with  leaves  or  litter 
through  the  Winter,  should  be  uncovered,  and  the  plants 
carefully  cultivated  ;  some  lay  straw  over  their  beds,  an  inch 
or  two  thick,  and  set  fire  to  it,  348. 

As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener  should  be 
on  the  alert,  in  order  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects. 
Burn  damp  litter,  stubble,  leaves,  weeds,  &c.  near  fruit  trees, 
and  sow  ashes  over  the  ground.  248.  310. 


"  Much  dew  on  the  grass,  portends  as  all  say, 
That  day  which  succeeds  will  be  a  clear  day  ; 
But  when  no  dew  moistens  the  grass  on  the  plain, 
Kind  Heaven  requites  it  by  sending  it  rain/' 

VEGETABLE    DEPARTMENT. 

Throughout  this  month  attend  to  plantations  of  Cabba- 
ges, Cauliflower,  &c.  hoe  them  frequently,  and  loosen  earth 
around  their  stems  ;  look  out  for  and  destroy  grub  worms' 
caterpillars,  and  other  insects,  12  to  14  ;  thin  out  the  early 
plantings  of  Beets,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  Salsify,  &c.,  and 
destroy  weeds,  to  prevent  their  seeding  the  ground.  Plant 
and  sow  such  kinds  of  seeds  as  were  omitted  last  month, 
and  transplant  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Tomatoe,  Egg-plants,  &c. 
from  the  hot.beds  and  warm  borders.  Plant  Beans,  33  and 
34 ;  Beet,  36 ;  sow  Borecole,  37 ;  Brussels  Sprout  seed,  38  ; 
Cape  Broccoli,  40;  Cauliflower,  44;  Cabbage  seed,  46  ; 
Carrot,  49 ;  Cress,  54 ;  plant  Cucumbers,  55  ;  sow  Endive 
seed,  58;  plant  Indian  Corn,  60 ;  Melon  63  ;  Water  Melon, 
64;  sow  Mustard  seed,  65;  plant  Nasturtium,  66 ;  Okra? 
66  ;  Pepper,  71 ;  plant  Peas,  72 ;  Potatoes,  74  ;  Potato* 
Sweet,  75  ;  Pumpkins,  76  ;  sow  Radish  seed,  77  ;  plant 


372  MONTHLY  CALENDAR. 

New  Zealand  Spinach,  87;  Squasli,87;  Tomatoe,88.  Early 
in  this  month,  finish  sowing  all  kinds  of  Aromatic,  Pot, 
Sweet  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  95  to  96.  Some  of  the  old 
hot-beds  may  be  spawned  for  Mushrooms,  but  it  is  best  to 
form  new  ones.  Uncover  productive  beds  once  a  week,  and 
gather  the  produce  ;  clear  them  of  weeds  and  wet  litter,  and 
put  a  little  dry  hay  or  straw  next  the  bed.  Prepare  fresh 
spawn,  &c.  1 14  to  118. 

Watering  will  now  be  frequently  required  to  newly  planted 
vegetables,  both  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  and  occasion- 
ally afterwards  in  dry  weather,  until  the  roots  are  estab- 
lished in  the  soil.  Likewise  seed  beds  recently  sown,  till 
the  young  plants  become  vigorous. 

Weeding  must  be  very  diligently  attended  to,  both  by 
hand  and  hoe  ;  for  as  weeds  grow  luxuriantly  it  is  nece&- 
sa«y  to  eradicate  them,  before  they  spread  too  far,  as  by 
neglect,  they  will  not  only  impede  the  growth  of,  but  eventu- 
ally smother  the  plants. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  top  such  of  the  English 
Broad  Beans  as  may  be  in  blossom,  to  promote  the  swelling 
of  the  pods,  as  well  as  their  early  maturity. — See  page  32. 

Those  who  have  young  families  should  not  fail  sowing 
some  Bene  plant  seed*,  as  the  plant  by  being  plunged  in  a 
glass  of  water,  produces  a  glutinous  liquid,  which  is  an 
efficacious  remedy  for  Summer  complaints.  It  may  be 
sown  in  drills  and  managed  the  same  as  Salad  or  Parsley. 
«'  See  herbs,  95. 

FLOWER  DEPARTMENT. 

As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener  should  be 
on  the  alert,  in  order  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects. 
Burn  tobacco  leaves  in  the  greenhouse,  so  as  to  fumigate 
the  plants  well,  before  they  are  removed  into  the  open  gar- 
den ;  and  such  plants  as  may  show  any  indications  of  being 
infested  with  the  eggs  of  insects,  should  be  sponged  with 
soap-suds,  and  afterwards  well  syringed  and  watered. 
^Frequent  sprinkling  from  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot,  will 
prevent  insects  from  accumulating  ;  especially  if  the  water 


[May-.  MONTHLY    CALENDAR.         *  373 

be  impregnated  with  tobacco,  by  a  bag  of  the  leaves  being 
steeped  therein  a  few  hours  previous  to  using  it. 

Choice  Geraniums  will  need  attention  this  month,  in 
order  that  they  may  exhibit  their  flowers  to  advantage. 
When  in  full  bloom,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  wet  the 
foliage  or  flowers,  but  this  may  be  done  freely  before  the 
buds  are  expanded. 

If  awnings  were  not  provided  last  month,  for  the  protec- 
tion of  choice  flowers,  it  should  be  attended  to  early  in  this 
month,  184,  200,  and  210  ;  Plant  Amaryllises,  184  ;  Double 
Dahlias,  196  and  197;  Gladioluses,  199;  Lilies,  203; 
Tuberoses  210;  Tiger  flowers,  211  ;  Sow  annual,  biennial, 
and  perennial  flower  seeds  in  the  open  borders,  140  to  150. 
Attend  to  the  walks,  edgings,  &c.  and  see  that  tall  plants  are 
neatly  tied  to  sticks,  wires,  or  stakes,  133,  139, 197  and  200. 
Procure  and  plant  such  perennial  plants  as  may  be  neces- 
sary to  make  variety  in  the  flower  beds,  151  and  152. 

Greenhouse  plants  may  be  set  out  about  the  middle  of 
the  month,  and  it  should  be  done  in  cloudy  weather,  in 
order  that  they  may  be  prepared  gradually  for  the  shining 
of  the  sun  upon  them.  A  situation,  exposed  to  the  sun  for 
only  one  half  of  the  day,  is  preferable  for  most  plants, 
especially  if  they  can  be  shaded  at  noon.  153. 

Many  plants,  such  as  Coronillas,  Heaths,  Aucubas* 
Myrtles,  Oleanders,  and  several  other  sorts,  are  subject  to 
be  infested  with  white  and  brown  scaly  insects  ;  if  these 
cannot  be  effectually  taken  from  the  plants  by  washing 
and  sponging,  let  the  plants  be  headed  down  early  in  the 
month  of  May,  and  if  they  are  well  attended  to,  new  branches 
will  shoot  out  on  the  old  stem. 

Such  Orange  trees  as  were  budded  last  July  or  August, 
should  also  be  headed  down  early  in  this  month. 

Auriculas,  Polyanthus  and  Daisies,  should  be  separated 
into  single  tufts,  and  planted  in  a  shady  border  for  increase, 
as  soon  as  they  have  done  blossoming. 

Such  Carnations  as  may  have  been  wintered  in  frames 
should  now  be  exposed  to  the  open  air,  in  the  flower  borders. 
Tulips,  which  will  be  in  full  perfection  by  the  middle  of 
this  month,  will  require  constant  attention. 

32     - 


374  MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 

Such  greenhouse  plants  as  may  have  done  blossoming 
may  be  primed  this  month,  and  if  the  cuttings  be  planted  at 
this  time  they  will  strike  freely. 

Cuttings  of  Salvia  splendens  and  fulgens^  will  produce 
strong  plants  for  blossoming  in  August,  if  planted  early  in 
this  month,  232.  Chrysanthemum  cuttings  should  now  be 
put  down,  and  the  suckers  divided,  and  planted  singly  in  the 
borders,  or  in  pots,  for  flowering  in  the  Autumn,  220. 

FRUIT 


Finish  planting  trees,  vines,  and  shrubs  as  early  in  this 
month  as  possible  ;  those  planted  last  month  should  be  kept 
watered  in  dry  weather,  and  stakes  should  be  applied  to  such 
as  may  be  exposed  to  the  wind,  311,  319  and  337. 

je'inish  grafting  early  in  this  month,  257.  Apples,  Pears, 
and  other  late  shooting  kinds  may  still  succeed. 

Strawberry  beds  may  be  made  this  month,  and  if  the 
transplanting  is  well  done,  and  the  plants  frequently 
watered,  they  will  produce  some  fruit  this  year,  and  a  plen- 
tiful supply  the  next  season.  The  Methven  Scarlet,  and 
Mulberry  or  Pine,  are  large  and  yield  plentifully.  Kean's 
seedling,  and  also  the  Downton  are  of  superior  flavour.  The 
Elton  seedling,  Southborough  seedling,  Myatt's  seedling, 
and  Bishop's  orange,  are  in  great  repute  where  cultivated. 
The  Wood  and  the  Alpine  Strawberry  will  produce  finer 
fruit  from  seed  sown  in  the  Spring  than  from  offsets.  For 
mode  of  planting,  &c.,  see  article  page  346. 

If  frost  prevail  when  fruit  trees  are  in  blossom,  those 
trained  on  trellises  or  against  walls  and  fences,  jnay  be  pro. 
tected  by  hanging  matting  or  sheets  of  tow  cloth  over  them  ; 
some  defend  them  by  sticking  bunches  of  evergreens 
between  the  branches,  as  cedar,  laurel,  pine,  &c.  The  object 
in  doing  this,  is  not  so  much  to  keep  out  the  frost,  as  to 
break  off  the  sun's  rays  in  the  morning  after  a  frosty  night  ; 
see  page  41,  also  flower  department  for  December. 

Propagate  Fig  trees,  by  layers,  cuttings,  suckers,  and  by 
grafting,  286. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.      *  375 

If  any  webs  or  larvae  of  insects  appear  on  the  leaves  of 
fruit  trees  and  vines,  pluck  off  and  destroy  such  leaves 
before  the  insects  become  quickened,  which  may  be  a 
means  of  preventing  any  depredation  to  the  advancing 
leaves  and  buds.  In  large  fruit  gardens  and  orchards 
means  should  be  used  to  destroy  insects  by  fumigation, 
washing,  <fcc.  See  observations  on  insects,  and  diseases  to 
which  fruit  trees  are  liable,  page  244. 

Divest  young  budded  and  grafted  trees  of  all  shoots  from 
the  stocks,  below  the  bud  or  graft,  as  they  appear,  also  rub 
*>ff  all  useless  buds  in  early  shooting  wall  trees,  as  Nectarine,, 
Apricots,  &c.  274, 


•  The  sky  dress'd  in  placid  soft  redness  at  night,     "* 
Portends  the  next  day  will  be  cloudless  and  bright^ 
A  fierce  angry  redness  that  shoots  up  at  morn. 
And  tinges  the  clouds,  is  a  token  of  storm.7' 


TEGETABLE    DEPARTMENT. 

The  principal  sowing  seasons  for  general  crops  may  be 
considered  as  past,  but  there  are  many  kinds  of  seeds  which 
may  be  sown  this  month  ;  and  the  gardener  should  ascertain 
the  success  of  his  former  plantings,  in  order  to  make  up  any 
deficiencies  from  failures,  before  the  season  be  too  far 
advanced.  By  this  time,  some  of  the  early  crops  will  be 
cleared  off,  and  such  ground  as  was  manured  for  the  early 
crops  of  Lettuce,  Radishes,  Spinach,  &c~,  will  be  in  excellent 
^rderfor  late  Beets  and  Carrots.  Hoe  and  thin  out  all  standing 
crops,  and  clean  vacant  ground,  to  prevent  weeds  from 
running  to  seed.  If  the  ground  be  dry,  frequent  hoeing  will 
be  beneficial.  -Use  means  to  destroy  insects  ;  read  pages  1 1 
to  14  for  informntion  on  this  subject.  Plant  Kidney 
Beans,  33  and  36 ;  Beet  seed,  36.  If  the  seedling  plants  of 
Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cabbage,  <fcc.  failed  last  month,  sow 
again  early  this  month.  Water  the  beds  frequently,  and 
sow  tobacco  dust,  soot,  ashes,  &c.,  or  use  the  liquid  recom- 


376  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  [JuitC. 

mended,  page  12.  Transplant  Cabbage,  Celery,  <fcc.  for 
Summer  use  ;  transplant  Cardoons,  48  ;  sow  Carrot  seed  in 
drills,  49 ;  plant  Cucumber  seed  in  hills,  55 ;  sow  Endive 
seed,  58;  plant  Indian  Corn,  60;  transplant  Leeks,  61  ; 
plant  Peas,  soak  them  five  or  six  hours  in  water,  72  ;  plant 
Potatoes,  74'  arid  75;  Pumpkin  seed,  76;  sow  Summer 
Radish  seed,  77. 

As  the  herbs  come  into  flower,  they  should  be  cut  on  a 
dry  day,  and  spread  in  a  shady  place  to  dry  for  Winter  use, 
96.  Conduct  Hop  vines  to  the  poles,  and  when  they  have 
reached  the  top,  nip  off  the  tops  to  strengthen  the  stems,  126. 

Hoe  between  the  Artichokes,  and  in  order  to  have  the 
main  top  fruit  attain  its  full  size,  detach  the  small  suckers, 
of  lateral  heads. — See  page  26., 

Early  Cauliflowers,  which  will  now  be  progressing 
towards  maturity,  must  be  watered  in  dry  weather,  and  as 
the  heads  begin  to  exhibit  themselves,  break  down  some  of 
the  large  leaves  over  them  to  protect  them  from  the  sudden 
rays  of  the  sun,  and  from  rain,  43. 

Keep  Asparagus  clear  of  weeds,  and  also  Onions  ;  and 
give  those  beds  that  are  to  stand  for  ripening  a  final  thinning, 
a$  suggested  in  pag<e  67. 

FLOWER    DEPARTMENT. 

The  principal  sowing  season  may  be  considered  as  past  ; 
fa»ut  if  any  failures  should  have  happened  of  former  sowings, 
seeds  may  be  sown  the  early  part  of  this  month,  which  if 
kept  watered  occasionally,  will  grow  quickly. 

Greenhouse  plants  will  need  watering  every  evening,  in 
dry  warm  weather ;  and  in  the  absence  of  dews,  some 
sorts  may  need  a  little  in  the  morning  at  sunrise,  218- 
Hydrangeas,  Daisies,  Polyanthus,  Primulas,  &c.  should  be 
kept  shaded  from  the  noonday  sun,  or  they  will  droop,  and 
some  may  die.  Carnations  and  Pinks  will  need  frequent 
waterings  at  the  roots,  and  the  branches  should  be  tied 
neatly  to  rods. 

Such  flowering  shrubs  as  may  have  been  planted  late  in 
tjie  Spring  season,  should  be  regularly  watered  in  dry  weather. 


June.]  MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  377 

Give  frequent  waterings  to  the  flower  beds,  in  general ;  cut 
down  dead  flower  stalks  ;  remove  decayed  plants,  and  care- 
fully replace  them  with  vigorous  ones  from  the  nursery  bed. 
Transplant  annual  flower  plants  into  the  regular  beds,  with 
a  small  trowel  or  neat  dibble,  145. 

Plant  Colchicums,  186  ;  finish  planting  Dahlias,  and  pro- 
vide poles  for  their  support,  197  ;  water  them  occasionally 
in  dry  weather. 

Many  sorts  of  bulbous  roots  will  be  ripe  by  the  end  of  this 
month  ;  these  should  be  taken  up,  and  dried  as  directed, 
page  181.  Those  cultivated  in  pots  should  not  be  watered 
after  the  foliage  is  decayed,  until  the  period  of  regermination 
takes  place,  183  and  212. 

Nnmerous  beautiful  flowers  exhibit  themselves  this  month, 
some  of  which  are  noticed  in  an  article  entitled  The  Beauties 
of  April  and  May,  page  170  to  178.  There  are,  however, 
several  others  worthy  of  notice,  which  are  omitted  in  that 
article.  The  several  species  of  the  Phlox  are  remarkably 
showy  plants,  and  very  desirable  to  cultivate,  as  they  blossom 
in  their  several  varieties  the  whole  season.  Besides  these 
are  all  the  splendid  varieties  of  Roses,  Pinks,  Lychnises, 
Sweet  Williams,  Fox  Glove,  Snap-dragons,  Perennial 
Lupins,  Verbenas,  Veronicas,  Valerians,  &c.  These  should 
be  all  attended  to,  and  their  branches  should  be  tied  to  neat 
stakes,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  exhibit  their  flowers  to  the 
greatest  possible  advantage,  147  to  152 

Dahlias  that  are  intended  for  blossoming  this  year,  should 
be  planted  by  the  middle  of  this  month,  if  not  done  before. 

FRUIT  DEPARTMENT. 

The  principal  business  of  this  month  in  the  fruit  garden  k 
Summer  pruning,  which  is  generally  performed  with  the 
finger  and  thumb,  by  detaching  all  superfluous  shoots  and 
buds ;  and  also  to  thin  the  young  fruit  of  Apricot,  Nectarine, 
and  other  choice  trained  trees,  where  it  sets  too  thick  or  in 
clusters,  see  pages  274  to  310. 

Newly  planted  trees  should  be  watered  in  hot  dry  weather, 
once  or  twice  a  week. 

32* 


378  MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  '-4  ['June. 

Cherry  trees  of  the  finest  sorts  may  be  defended  from  bird*, 
with  nets,  particulaly  those  trained  as  espaliers,  277. 

Currant  and  Gooseberry  shrubs  of  choice  late  varieties^ 
trained  as  espaliers  or  standards,  if  very  crowded  with  shoots 
of  the  year,  should  be  pruned,  and  the  Gooseberry  fruit 
thinned  to  promote  its  growth  and  ripening  in  full  perfection, 
284  and  292. 

All  trees  on  espaliers  require  attention  r  cut  off  such 
superfluous  shoots  as  are  not  required  to  be  trained-in, 
leaving  well  situated  middle-sized  shoots  to  supply  the  place 
of  any  old  branches  that  it  may  be  thought  neccessary  to  cut 
away.  274. 

Grape  vines  should  be  looked  over  every  week.  Cut  off 
all  the  tendrils  and  useless  young  shoots,  and  stop  the 
shoots  before  the  bunches  of  fruit.  Train  up  the  shoots 
for  bearing  next  season,  and-  to  a  proper  length  before  you 
stop  them.  305. 


l(  Whenflmoers  toward  evening  their  bosoms  expand,, 
And  bask  in  the  sunbeams,  there's  no  rain  at  hand  ;— 
But  when  they  closs  up  as  if  conscious  of  fear, 
They  augur  its  coming  —  it  no  doubt  is  near." 


VEGETABLE    DEPARTMENT. 

This  is  a  very  important  month  for  transplanting  Cabbage 
Cardoons,  Celery,  Endive,  Leek  plants,  &c.  for  full  Autumt; 
crops.  Prepare  trenches  for  the  Celery  plants  beforehand, 
in  order  that  they  may  be  ready  to  catch  the  rain.  Leeks 
may  be  transplanted  in  dry  weather  by  first  steeping  the 
roots  in  mud,  and  Cabbage  plants  too,  if  there  be  the  least 
damp  in  the  ground  when  it  is  fresh  turned  over.  If  Car- 
doons or  Celery  be  planted  in  dry  weather,  the  trenches 
must  be  shaded  with  boards.  As  grub  worms  are  generally 
numerous  in  this  month,  plant  with  caution,  try  a  few  Cab- 
bage plants  first,  and  if  none  are  eaten  off,  you  may  venture 
to  proceed,  and  by  the  middle  of  the  month,  the  danger  is 
generally  over, 


My.]  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

If  Beets  and  Carrots  have  failed,  the  seeds  may  produce 
good  roots  by  Autumn,  if  planted  early  in  this  month  , 
plant  Beans,  33  ;  Cabbage  seed  may  be  sown  now  for  Col- 
lards,  48  ;  plant  Cucumber  seed  for  picklers,  56 ;  sow 
Endive  seed,  and  transplant  the  former  sowing,-  58  ;  if  Peas 
be  planted  now  they  should  be  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or 
six  hours  previous,  72 ;  Potatoes  may  be  planted  early  in 
this  month,  74;  and  Pumpkins  if  not  done  last  month,  76. 
Sow  Summer  Radish  seed  in  drills,  77 ;  sow  Turnip- 
rooted  Cabbage  seed,  or  Navet,  47  ;  this  is  a  good  season 
for  Ruta  Baga,  or  Russian  Turnip,  93  ;  and  the  common 
kinds  of  Turnip  seed  may  be  sown  towards  the  end  of  this 
month,  92.  Attend  to  plantations  of  Hops,  126;  whatever 
herbs  may  be  required  for  Winter  use,  should  be  cut  off  and 
dried  as  they  come  into  flower,  Burnet,  Chervil,  Fennel, 
Mint,Parsley,  Sweet  Marjoram,  Tarragon,  Thyme,  Winter 
and  Summer  Savory,  may  all  be  cut  this  month,  96. 

The  business  of  sowing  and  transplanting,  will  be  more 
successful  if  done  in  moist  or  showery  weather,  or  on  the 
approach  of  rain,  or  immediately  after,  especially  for  pre- 
carious seeds,  and  young  seedling  plants.  Attend  to  the 
Mushroom  beds,  and  give  light  waterings,  or  expose  them 
ts-warra  moderate  showers,  occasionally,  114  to  118. 
t 

FLOWER  DEPARTMENT.. 

Greenhouse  plants  will  need  daily  care  at  this  season  ; 
let  them  be  watered  every  evening  in  dry  weather.  Such 
Geraniums  as  may  have  grown  large  and  unwieldly,  should 
now  be  pruned,  in  order  that  their  size  and  appearance 
may  be  improved,  219. 

Garden  Roses  having  done  flowering  for  the  season, 
should  also  be  pruned.  Cut  out  all  old  exhausted  wood, 
and  were  it  is  too  thick  and  crowded,  shorten  such  shoots 
as  have  flowered,  to  a  good  fresh  strong  eye,  or  bud,  accom- 
panied with  a  healthy  leaf.  All  wood  that  grows  after  this 
pruning,  will  ripen  perfectly,  and  produce  large  flowers  the- 
ensuing  year. 


§80  MONTHLY   CALENDAR. 

If  dry  warm  weather,  it  may  be  necessary  to  water  such 
flowering  shrubs  and  roses  as  were  planted  in  the  Spring  ; 
and  if  Dahlia  plants  could  be  watered  two  or  three  times  a 
week,  it  would  be  beneficial  to  their  growth.  Give  regular 
sprinklings  from  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot,  or  syringe,  to 
shrubby  plants  in  general,  but  particularly  Camellias,  Orange 
and  Lemon  trees,  &c.,  in  order  to  keep  them  in  a  healthy 
state. 

Such  bulbous  roots  in  pots,  whose  foliage  have  withered, 
should  be  kept  dry  until  the  period  of  regerminating,  182 
and  212  ;  others  may  be  taken  up  as  soon  as  ripe,  after 
which  the  offsets  may  be  parted  off,  and  both  these  and  the 
parent  bulbs  dried  for  planting  in  Autumn,  181. 

The  flower  garden  should  be  kept  weeded  and  watered, 
and  the  seeds  gathered  as  they  ripen  ;  apply  neat  rods  to 
tall-growing  and  running  kinds  of  plants.  Nip  off  curled 
and  dead  leaves,  and  destroy  insects.  133. 

Orange  and  Lemon  trees  may  be  budded  at  any  time 
this  month,  and  those  which  were  headed  down  in  the 
Spring,  should  be  examined,  and  all  superfluous  shoots 
must  be  pruned  off"  with  a  sharp  knife,  leaving  only  the 
strongest ;  the  tops  of  which  should  be  pruned  off  to  pro- 
mote their  branching.  Myrtles,  Oleanders,  and  such  other 
plants  as  may  have  been  headed  down  in  May,  will  need 
similar  treatment. 

Carnations,  Pinks,  Panseys,  Running  Verbenas,  &c. 
may  be  layed  this  month  for  propagation,  151  and  154  ; 
many  kinds  of  cuttings,  as  Geraniums,  Roses  and  exotic 
shrubs,  may  still  b»  planted  with  success,  166. 

FRUIT    DEPARTMENT, 

Thin  the  fruit  of  Apricot,  which  will  be  good  for  pies  and 
tarts,  274  ;  thin  Nectarines,  also  such  Peaches  and  other  fruits 
as  may  be  desired  in  full  perfection,  310. 
'  Defend  choice  fruits  from  birds  and  insects,  such  as  wasps, 
flies,  &c. ;  the  birds  may  be  kept  off  by  nets,  and  the  insects 
may  be  decoyed  and  drowned,  by  placing  phials  of  strong 
liquor,  honey,  or  sugared  water  near  the  fruit.. 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  381 

If  annoyed  with  ants,  place  cuttings  of  reed,  hollowed 
elder,  or  anything  of  a  tube-like  kind,  in  which  they  will 
harbour,  and  may  be  destroyed  by  dipping  the  tubes  in  hot 
water, 

If  mildew  appear  on  grape  vines,  syringe  them  with 
water,  in  which  a  small  quantity  of  sulphur  and  stone  lime 
has  been  infused  (it  need  not  be  over  strong).  To  prevent 
any  injurious  effects  from'the  lime, the  vines  may  be  syringed 
alternately  with  the  liquid,  and  pure  water,  each  two  or  three 
times  a  week. 

Look  over  your  fruit  trees  and  grape  vines  ;  stop  the  shoots 
before  the  bunches  of  fruit,  and  train  up  such  shoots  as  are 
reserved  for  bearing  next  year.  Nip  off  curled  and  dead 
leaves,  and  destroy  insects,  304. 


"  When  clouds  slow  dissolve,  as  if  turn  d  into  air, 
And  vanish  from  sight,  the  next  day  will  be  fair  ; 
But  when,  in  succession,  they  darker  appear, 
With  watery  aspect,  then  know  rain  is  near." 


VEGETABLE     DEPARTMENT. 

The  planting  season  being  nearly  over,  now  is  the  time  to 
hoe  around  the  plant*  and  clear  the  ground  of  weeds  and 
stubble.  Dig  or  plough  vacant  ground  ready  for  Fall  Tur- 
nips, Spinach,  Shallots,  Fetticus,  &,c.  As  the  ground  for 
the  latter  crops  may  require  manure,  it  will  be  greatly  im- 
proved if  ploughed  before  the  manure  is  drawn  on,  which 
should  be  afterwards  spread  and  ploughed  under. 

Plant  Beans  for  Picklers,  33  ;  sow  Cabbage  seed  for  Co}- 
lards,  48;  earth  up  Cardoons,  48;  do.  Celery,  52;  sow 
Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus  seed,  53  ;  the  early  kinds  of  Cucum-. 
ber  may  produce  picklers  if  planted  early  in  this  month,  56  ; 
transplant  Endive  and  prepare  to  blanch  the  early  plantings, 
58 ;  Peas  may  be  planted  thus  late,  if  desired,  72 ;  sov 
Summer  Radish  seed,  77  ;  prepare  for  planting  Shallots  by 
the  end  of  this  month,  85 ;  sow  Turnip  seed  for  full  crops,  93; 


882  MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  [AugU$i. 

attend  to  such  herbs  as  were  not  gathered  last  month,  cut 
off  and  dry  Sage,  and  other  late  herbs,  96.  Hops  will 
be  ripe  this  month;  choose  a  dry  season  for  gathering 
them,  and  attend  to  them  as  directed,  page  127  ;  this  is  a 
g*ood  season  for  preparing  to  make  Mushroom  beds,  in  close 
sheds,  cellars  or  pits ;  if  the  materials  be  gathered  this 
month,  indigenous  spawn  may  be  collected  next,  but  those 
that  can  procure  spawn  may  make  the  beds  at  any  time,  or 
they  may  pursue  Mr.  NichoPs  plan,  116. 

Artichokes  will  be  in  perfection  this  month,  and  should 
be  cut  for  use  as  soon  as  the  scales  of  the  head  expand,  and 
before  they  open  in  the  heart  for  flowering  ;  and  as  you  cut 
them,  break  down  the  stems  to  promote  the  growth  of  root 
offsets,  26.  In  dry  weather  hoe  and  plough  between  euch 
vegetables  as  may  have  been  planted  in  rows,  which  will 
not  only  Destroy  weeds  but  encourage  the  growth  of  the 
plants.  Frequent  hoeing  in  dry  weather,  will  be  more  bene- 
ficial than  the  watering  pot. 

Early  sown  Onions,  being  now  of  mature  growth,  and 
Full  bulbed,  should  be  pulled  up  in  dry  weather  and  exposed 
to  the  sun  to  ripen  ;  frequently  turning  them,  that  they  may 
'harden  equally  for  keeping;  then  clear  them  from  the  gross 
part  of  the  stalks,  and  loose  outer  skins,  earth,  &c.  and 
remove  them  to  a  pl^ce  of  shelter,  68, 

Continue  to  gather  seeds  of  all  kinds  as  they  ripen,  and 
prepare  vacant  ground  for  late  crops  ;  such  as  Spinach , 
Shallots, Onjons,  ^etticus,  &c. 

FLOWER  DEPARTMENT. 

Greenhouse  plants  will  need  particular  attention  this 
month.  They  should  be  watered  every  evening  in  dry  wea- 
ther, and  as  soon  as  the  extreme  heat  of  the  Summer  is  past, 
which  is  generally  by  the  latter  end  of  this  month,  or  early 
in  the  next,  preparation  must  be  made  for  replenishing  with 
fresh  compost,  and  repotting  such  plants  as  are  intended  to 
be  cultivated  through  the  Winter  in  a  greenhouse,  light 
foom,  or  garden  frames.  Previous  to  the  commencement  of 
this  business,  let  such  compost  as  is  suited  to  the  various 
of  plants,  be  provided, 


AugUSt.]  MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  383 

Those  who  may  have  a  number  of  plants  in  various  sized 
pots,  should  provide  a  few  new  pots  a  size  larger  than  the 
largest  in  use  ;  the  largest  plants  being  shifted  into  the  nevr 
pots,  leaves  the  next  sized  pots  for  the  second-sized  plants, 
and  by  pursuing  this  plan  of  shifting  until  the  whole  are 
done,  the  smallest  pots  will  be  left  for  such  plants  as  have 
been  propagated  in  the  course  of  the  Summer. 

The  shifting  of  plants  requires  considerable  attention  and1 
judgment,  as  some  plants,  if  kept  in  too  large  pots,  will  sus- 
tain considerable  injury  :  therefore,  in  such  cases,  where  the 
fibrous  roots  have  not  spread  around  the  pot,  nothing  more 
is  necessary  than  to  rub  off  a  little  of  the  outside  mould,  and 
then  to  substitute  fresh  compost  for  the  roots  to  run  in. 

Such  plants  as  may  have  become  pot-bound,  and  whose 
roots  are  matted  around  the  pot,  will,  in  many  cases  bear 
reducing.  If  the  matted  roots  are  carefully  pared  off,  and  the 
plants  shifted  into  good  fresh  compost,  they  will  soon  take 
root,  and  grow  freely  :  but  it  will  be  necessary  to  prune  off 
all  surplus  branches  of  the  plants,  previous  to  repotting  them, 
and  to  shade  them  for  a  week  or  ten  days. 

Pieces  of  tile,  or  broken  pots,'  should  be  laid  over  the 
aperture  at  the  bottom  of  the  pots,  to  enable  the  surplus 
moisture  to  drain  off,  or  the  roots  will  sustain  injury. 

The  flower  beds  will  need  attention  this  month.  Water 
Dahlias  and  other  choice  plants  in  dry  weather  ;  cut  down 
all  decayed  flower  stalks,  as  soon  as  the  seed  is  gathered, 
and  pull  up  annuals  as  they  cease  to  flower. 

Plant  Oxalises  in  small  pots,  205,  and  prepare  compost 
for  other  tender  bulbs  to  be  planted  in  pots  next  month. 

Rose  shrubs,  Orange,  Lemon  trees,  &c.  &c.,  should  be 
budded  early  in  this  month  if  not  done  before. 

FRUIT    DEPARTMENT. 

Pursue  nil  that  remains  to  be  done  of  Summer  pruning 
all  trained  fruit  trees  and  vines,  as  in  the  last  two  months  ; 
destroy  all  irregular  and  unnecessary  after-shoots,  and 
train-in  a  requisite  supply  of  well-situated  shoots, for  bearers 
next  year.  274  to  304. 


3S4  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  [September, 

Keep  Raspberry  beds  clear  of  all  straggling  suckers;  tie 
up  such  shoots  as  are  adapted  for  next  year's  bearers  to  neat 
stakes,  and  keep  the  ground  clear  of  weeds,  346. 

Strawberry  beds  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  the 
runners  may  be  taken  from  some  kinds  to  make  new  plan- 
tations  with,  347. 

If  dry  weather  prevail,  as  is  generally  the  case  at  this 
season,  hoe  frequently  between  such  young  trees,  shrubs, 
&c  ,  in  the  nursery  beds,  as  are  well  rooted ;  and  water 
tliese  which  were  recently  transplanted. 


"  Light  vapours  o'er  valleys  and  rivers  at  night, 
Foretoken  the  next  day  salubrious  and  bright, 
Especially  when  they  at  morning  appear, 
To  rise  up  the  hill  sides,  and  vanish  in  air." 

VEGETABLE     PEPARTMENT. 

Although  the  sowing  season  is  nearly  over,  the  crops  on 
the  ground  require  attention  constantly.  Endive  may  still 
be  transplanted  for  Winter  use.  Hoe  Cabbage  #nd  other 
vegetables,  and  attend  to  the  earthing  of  Celery  as  it  pro- 
gresses in  growth.  Sow  Rape,  39  ;  Cauliflower  seed,  42  ; 
Cabbage,  45;  Corn  S'alad,  or  Felticus,  53  ;  Cress,  Rape, 
&c  ,  every  ten  days  for  a  Salad,  54  ;  sow  Mustard,  for  the 
same  purpose,  65;  sow  Lettuce  seed,  62;  Onion  to  stand 
the  Winter,  68  ;  Radish  for  Fall  use,  77  ;  plant  Shallots,  85; 
sow  Spinach  seed  every  week  or  ten  days,  86  ;  Turnips  will 
sometimes  come  to  maturity  if  the  seeds  be  sown  the  early 
part  of  this  month,  and  those  sown  last  month  will  need 
hoeing  as  they  progress  in  growth,  92. 

Continue  to  gather,  dry  and  pack  Hops  as  they  ripen,  127; 
also  all  aromatic,  sweet,  and  medicinal  herbs,  96  ;  this  is  a 
good  season  to  make  Mushroom  beds  in  sheltered  situations i 
they  may  be  spawned  with  indigenous  or  artificial  spawn,  as 
may  be  most  convenient,  For  directions  to  preserve  spawn, 
&c.  see  page  114. 


>>cpiemler.]  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.       *  :3«o 

Towards  the  end  of  this  month,  or  early  in  the  next,  is  a 
good  season  to  increase  all  kinds  of  herbaceous  plants,  by 
parting  the  roots,  but  it  should  be  done  in  cloudy  or  wet 
weather  ;  at  the  same  time,  such  plants  as  were  raised  from 
herb  seeds  sown  in  the  Spring,  may  be  transplanted  inft» 
separate  beds  or  borders,  94  to  96. 

In  this  month  must  be  finished  all  the  principal  sowing? 
and  plantings  necessary  this  year ;  on  this  account  such 
ground  as  is  intended  for  principal  crops  next  year,  should 
be  well  manured  previous  to  planting  it. — See  Spinach,  8(1. 

FLOWER    DEPARTMENT. 

Such  greenhouse  plants  as  may  have  been  repotted  and 
pruned  in  the  course  of  the  last  month,  should  be  looked 
over,  and  if  they  have  taken  root,  they  should  be  exposed 
gradually  to  the  Sun,  and  watered  moderately  in  dry 
weather. 

If  any  of  the  greenhouse  plants  were  plunged  in  the 
flower  beds,  they  should  be  taken  up  and  pruned  early  iu 
this  month,  and  then  put  into  suitable  sized  pots,  153. 

Half-hardy  perennials,  such  as  Carnations,  Daisies, 
Primulas,  Lilies,  Hydrangeas,  &c.  should  be  taken  up 
divided  carefully  at  the  roots,  and  then  put  into  moderate 
sized  pots,  and  attended  to  as  before  directed  for  greenhouse 
plants. 

Many  hardy  kinds  of  flower  seeds  may  be  sown  this 
month,  142  and  151.  This  is  a  good  season  to  propagate 
all  kinds  of  hardy  perennial  plants,  by  parting  the  roots; 
and  those  that  were  raised  from  seed  in  the  Spring,  may 
be  transplanted  into  regular  flower  beds,  in  cloudy  OP  wn-f 
weather,  154.  Plant  Crown  Imperials,  185;  Persian 
Cyclamens,  186  ;  Ixias,201 ;  Lachenalias,  202;  Lilies,  202  ; 
Ornithogalums,  204  ;  Oxalises,  205. 

Such  Chrysanthemums  as  are  intended  to  be  protected 
while  in  blossom,  should  now  be  taken  up  and  planted  iu 
moderate  sized  pots,  220. 

Seeds  of  Schizanthus,  Ten- week  Stock,  Mignonette,  and 
such  other  species  as  may  be  desired  to  decorate  the  par- 
lour or  greenhouse,  should  be  sown  this  month. 

33 


386  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

FHU1T     DEPARTMENT. 


Plantations  of  Strawberries  may  be  made  this  month, 
either  with  runners  or  seedling  plants,  347. 

Protect  your  Grapes  and  other  fruit  from  wasps  and 
other  insects  ;  either  decoy  them  with  honey  or  sugared 
water,  or  hang  nets  over  the  fruit  ;  some  are  at  the  expense 
of  putting  the  bunches  into  crape  or  paper  bags. 

Grape  Vines  and  espalier  trees  in  general,  should  be 
attended  to,  as  directed  in  the  previous  Summer  months  ; 
by  depriving  them  of  all  useless  shoots  and  suckers,  train- 
ing-in  those  branches  intended  for  the  next  year's  bearers, 
and  destroying  the  eggs  of  insects,  curled  leaves,  &c.,  304. 

Stone  fruit,  which  will  now  be  continually  ripening, 
should  be  gathered  while  in  full  perfection,  and  not  suffered 
to  get  over-ripe,  so  as  to  lose  its  peculiar  flavour.  " 

Ground  allotted  for  the  planting  of  fruit  trees  and  vines 
the  coming  Autumn,  should  be  prepared  this  month  by 
digging,  trenching  and  manuring,  where  necessary,  240. 


'  A  warm  open  Winter  doth  often  succeed  ;-~ 
A  hot  and  dry  Summer,  by  all  'tis  agreed  ; 
A  hard  frosty  Winter  its  rigour  retains, 
And  holds  gentle  Spring  in  its  cold  icy  chains." 


VEGETABLE  DEPARTMENT. 

The  principal  Winter  crops  being  planted,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  prepare  for  maturing  and  gathering  some  of 
the  Fall  crops.  Weed  out  Fetticus,  Spinach,  &c.  Hoe  and 
earth  up  Celery,  do  it  in  dry  weather,  and  not  even  while 
the  dew  is  on  it,  52  ;  Asparagus,  Sea  Kale,  Skirret,  and 
Dill  seed,  may  be  sown  this  month.  Towards  the  end  of 
the  month,  frames  must  be  provided  for  the  protection  of 
Parsley,  Lettuce,  and  of  such  Cabbage  and  Cauliflower 
plants  as  were  raised  from  seed  sown  last  month.  Begin  to 
dig  and  secure  all  kinds  of  vegetables  soon  enough  to  gel 


October.]  MOMTHLT  CALENDAR.  387 

the  whole  placed  away  before  the  end  of  the  next  month. 
Take  up  Potatoes  and  bury  them  in  graves  so  as  to  secure 
them  from  wet  and  frost,  or  put  them  in  a  warm  cellar. 
Proceed  to  take  up  other  roots ;  begin  with  the  tenderest 
kinds,  or  do  that  which  is  required  to  be  done  in  dry 
weather,  while  it  is  so.  Collect  Pumpkins  and  Winter 
Squashes,  and  expose  them  to  the  sun  and  air  on  a  dry 
bench,  or  ledge,  before  they  are  stowed  away.  Dig  up 
Beets  and  secure  them  in  graves,  or  pack  them  in  sand  in 
a  cellar. 

Aromatic,  Pot,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  should  now  have  a 
thorough  cleaning  and  dressing;  by  destroying  all  weeds, 
cutting  away  all  decayed  stalks,  digging  between  such 
plants  as  will  admit  of  it,  and  spreading  earth  over  others, 
as  suggested  page  97. 

Tie  up  full  grown  plants  of  Endive  every  week,  in  dry 
weather,  for  blanching  in  succession  as  required,  58. 

Horse-Radish  may  now  be  dug  for  use  as  wanted,  by 
trenching  along  each  row  to  the  bottom  of  the  upright  rooti, 
leaving  the  old  stools  for  future  preduction,  59.     Jerusalem* 
Artichokes  may  be  dug  up  for  use,  or  to  preserve  for  Win- 
ter consumption,  60. 

FLO-WER    DEPARTMENT. 

In  the  early  part  of  this  month,  preparation  must  be  made 
for  the  housing  of  greenhouse  plants.  Previous  to  this 
being  done,  let  the  room  or  greenhouse  be  white-washed  with 
lime,  which  will  prove  pernicious  to  insects,  and  prevent 
their  generating  amongst  the  plants. 

Begin  the  first  week  in  this  month  to  place  all  the  shrubby 
plants,  such  as  Orange  and  Lemon  trees,  on  the  back 
shelves  ;  others  should  be  placed  that  they  can  be  cultivated 
to  advantage,  and  they  should  all  be  arranged  in  regular 
gradation,  so  as  to  have  the  low-growing  or  dwarf  plants  on 
the  front  shelves. 

Stockgillies  and  Wall  flowers  should  be  taken  up,  potted 
and  kept  in  a  shady  situation,  until  they  have  taken  root. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

Such  Dahlia  plants  as  have  been  cultivated  in  pots  should 
be  sheltered  from  the  chilling  air,  and  those  in  the  ground 
will  need  attention,  182. 

Prepare  the  ground  for  all  the  hardy  kinds  of  bulbous 
ilmver  roots,  180.  Towards  the  end  of  the  month  plant 
Anemones  and  Ranunculuses,  184;  Crocuses,  185;  Crown 
Imperials,  185;  Gladioluses,  199  i  Hyacinths,  200  ;  Irises, 
•J01 ;  Ixias  and  Jonquils,  201;  Lilies,  202;  Narcissus, 
:>03 ;  Ornithogalums,.  £04;  Paeonies,  205;  Tulips,  200. 
For  the  management  of  bulbous  roots  in  pots  and  glasses, 
see  pages  212  and  213.  Prune  flowering  shrubs,  and  make 
new  plantations  of  them,  1C9. 

Chrysanthemums  should  be  neatly  tied  up  to  small  sticks, 
and  watered  occasionally  with  liquid  manure,  to  promote 
their  blossoming  in  full  perfection.  Those  in  pots  intended 
to  be  protected  for  late  flowering,  should  be  watched  and 
taken  in,  on  the  appearance  of  a  frosty  night;  they  may, 
however,  be  exposed  to  the  air  as  much  as  possible  when  it 
is  soft  and  salubrious,  as  should  all  other  half-hardy  plants, 

I 

FRUIT    DEPARTMENT. 

Prepare  the  ground  for  planting  all  kinds  of  hardy  fruit 
trees  this  month,  by  diging,  trenching,  and  manuring  240. 

Gather  such  varieties  of  Apples  and  Pears  as  are  in  full 
growth,  both  of  Autumn  eating  and  Winter  keeping  kinds  ; 
do  it  on  dry  days  ;  let  the  keeping  sorts  lay  in  heaps  to  dis- 
charge their  redundant  moisture  ;  after  which  convey  them 
to  a  room  adapted  for  preserving  them  through  the  Winter  ; 
lay  each  kind  separate,  and  cover  them  up  with  dry  straw, 
a  foot  or  more  in  thickness  according  to  the  warmness  o£ 
jheroom,  which  will  preserve  them  in  good  order. 

Prune  Currant  and  Gooseberry  bushes  ;  make  new  plan- 
tations, and  plant  cuttings  from  these  shrubs,  prepared  as 
directed  in  pages  284  and  291. 

Plant  the  stones  of  Cherry,  Peach,  Plum,  &c.  in  drills 
about  two  inches  deep  for  the  purpose  of  raising  stocks  and 
for  new  varieties  ;  and  in  temperate  climates,  kernels  of 
Apple,  Pear,  Quince,  &c.  may  be  sown  in  drills  about  an 


November.]  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  389 

inch  deep  for  the  same  purpose.  Plant  also  cuttings  of 
hardy  trees,  suckers  of  Filberts,  &c.  287. 

Strawberry  beds  which  were  planted  last  month,  should 
be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  if  dry  weather  prevails,  they 
should  be  occasionally  watered,  347. 

Planting  of  hardy  trees  may  be  commenced  towards  the 
end  of  this  month,  or  soon  after  the  leaves  show  indications 
of  decay,  whether  fallen  or  not,  242. 


1  When  nuts  are  but  few,  and  they  small  and  hollow, 
A  cold  and  wet  harvest,  there's  no  doubt,  will  follow ; 
But  when  they  are  plenty,  and  good,  'tis  agreed, 
.\  rich  golden  harvest  is  sure  to  succeed." 


VEGETABLE    DEPARTMENT. 

Endeavour  to  avoid  having  your  garden  products  frozen 
fast  in  the  ground.  Begin  in  good  earnest  to  secure  them  ; 
in  fine  weather  dig  up  Beets,  Carrots,  and  as  many  Skirret, 
Salsify,  and  other  hardy  roots  as  will  be  required  for  Winter 
use,  and  pack  them  close  together  in  graves ;  give  them  a 
coat  of  straw,  and  afterwards  heap  on  as  much  earth  as 
will  keep  out  the  frost,  or  stow  them  in  a  cellar.  Towards 
the  end  of  the  month,  Turnips  may  be  secured  in  the  same 
way.  Take  up  Celery  in  dry  weather,  and  strike  it  in  close 
together  against  a  ridge,  which  should  be  previouely  formed 
in  a  straight  line,  about  a  foot  above  the  level  of  the  surface ; 
throw  up  earth  from  the  trench  sufficient  to  cover  them 
about  an  inch,  and  then  plant  row  after  row  as  close  and 
upright  as  it  can  be  placed,  with  just  sufficient  earth  between 
every  row  to  keep  the  roots  and  stalks  from  touching  each 
other.  The  whole  being  covered  up  with  earth,  some  long 
dung  or  litter  may  be  thrown  over  it  sufficient  to  keep  out 
the  frost ;  and  by  heaping  a  good  layer  of  manure  against 
the  last  row  of  Celery,  it  may  be  taken  out  at  any  time  in 
the  Winter  for  use.  Some  .erect  a  board  shed  to  pre- 
serve it  from  wet,  or  a  small  quantity  may  be  kept  in  a 

33* 


390 

MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  [November. 

eeflar.  Cabbages  must  be  taken  up  and  laid  in  rows 
against  a  ridge,  so  as  to  form  a  square,  compact,  close-grow- 
ing bed,  the  roots  and  steins  being  buried  up  to  the  lower 
leaves  of  the  Cabbages.  The  beds  may  be  afterwards 
covered  with  straw,  or  a  temporary  shed  may  be  erected 
orer  them,  Cabbages  will  keep  for  some  months  in  a  cellar, 
if  connected  with  their  roots.  For  the  management  of 
Broccoli  and  Cauliflower,  see  pages  40  and  108  ;  Borecole, 
Brusse's  Sprouts,  and  Collards,  may  be  taken  up  and 
stowed  away  like  Cabbages.  Cardoons  may  be  laid  in  like 
Celery,  or  preserved  in  sand  in  a  cellar.  Leeks  may  be 
taken  up  and  laid  in  rows  close  together  against  a  ridge, 
and  covered  up  as  far  as  the  lower  leaves.  If  the  last  row 
be  protected  from  frost  by  a  coat  of  stable  dung,  they  can  be 
taken  out  when  required  for  use.  Corn  Salad,  Spinach,  and 
Lettuce,  may  be  protected  by  a  covering  of  straw,  salt  hay, 
or  cedar  brush.  For  the  management  of  Artichoke  bed?, 
see  page  25  ;  Asparagus,  29  ;  Rhubarb,  79  ;  Sea  Kale,  83- 
Dig  up  roots  of  Horse  Radish  in  the  manner  recom- 
mended last  month,  to  preserve  in  sand,  or  graves,  for  use 
when  the  ground  is  frozen  arid  ice-bound.  Do  the  like  by 
Jerusalem  Artichokes,  which  are  now  in  their  full  perfection. 
At  the  same  time  take  up  as  many  Parsnips  and  other 
hardy  roots,  as  will  be  required  for  use  the  next  three 
months. 

FLOWER    DEPARTMENT. 

During  the  continuance  of  mild  weather,  greenhouse 
plants  should  have  air  at  all  opportunities,  and  water  in  pro-, 
portion,  as  heat  and  air  are  attainable,  218.  Bulbous  roots 
in  pots  and  glasses  will  also  need  attention,  212  to  214. 

Half  hardy  plants,  such  as  Stock  gillies,  Wall  flowers, 
Carnations,  Primulas,  Hydrangeas,  Daisies,  &c.  must  either 
be  placed  in  frames,  or  in  a  greenhouse  early  in  this  month. 

If  Dahlia,  Tuberose,  and  other  tender  roots  were  not 
taken  up  last  month,  let  it  be  done  in  due  time  this  month, 
181. 

Cover  up  flower  beds  with  leaves,  straw,  or  light  litter, 
155;  finish  planting  bulbous  roots  before  the  frost  sets  in. 
Plant  Anemones  and  Ranunculuses,  184  ;  Crocuses,  185  ; 


[November.  MONTHLY  CALENDAR..  39$ 

Hyacinths,  199;  Irisis,  201  ;  Ixias  and  Jonquils,  201 ;  Lilies, 
202;  Narcissus,  203  ;  Peeonies,  205;  Tulips,  207  to  210. 
These,  and  all  other  kinds  of  plants,  will  need  protection 
before  tlje  setting  in  of  the  Winter,  181.  Flowering  and 
ornamental  shrubs  may  be  planted  in  mild  weather,  169  ; 
lay  long  litter  round  the  roots  of  them,  and  also  of  the  Grape 
vines  and  other  tender  plants,  shrubs,  <fcc ,  167. 

Before  the  Winter  sets  in  severely,  let  such  Chrysanthe- 
mums as  have  been  cultivated  in  pots  be  planted  in  the 
garden,  or  as  soon  as  they  have  done  blossoming,  220. 

PJant  Gladioluses  in  pots,  199  ;  also  such  other  bulbous 
roots  as  may  be  required  to  be  kept  in  rooms,  page  212. 

Mignonette,  and  other  tender  seedling  plants  under  pror 
tection,  will  require  attention  at  this  season;  they  should 
not  be  over  watered,  or  the  plants  will  perish  with  mildew. 

Camellias  should  be  frequently  syringed  while  in  bud,  or. 
watered  over  the  foliage  w.ith  a  rose  attached  to  the  wa- 
tering pot,  as  should  all  other  shrubs. 

FRUIT    DEPARTMEiNT. 

Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  Cherry,  Chestnut,  Mulberry,  Quince, 
Walnut  and  other  hardy  fruit  trees  may  now  be  planted ; 
use  caution  not  to  injure  them  in  taking  up,  or  removing 
them  ;  let  holes  be  dug  somewhat  larger  than  is  sufficient 
to  admit  the  roots  in  their  natural  position,  and  of  sufficient 
depth  to  allow  of  some  good  rich  compost  or  pulverized 
earth  to  be  thrown  in  before  the  trees  are  planted,  see  pages 
241,  311,  and  337,  and  read  the  article  headed  "observa- 
tions on  the  choice  of  fruit  trees  in  the  nursery,"  page  259. 

Finish  gathering  late  varieties  of  Apples,  Pears,  Grapes, 
&c  ;  do  it  in  dry  weather,  and  stow  them  away  out  of  the 
reach  of  frost,  as  recommended  last  month. 

Currant,  Filbert,  Gooseberry  and  Raspberry  shrubs  may- 
be planted  this  month;  at  the  same  time  cut  out  all  crowded 
branches,  superfluous  «uckers,  worn-out  bearers  and  decayed 
wood,  273,  284,  287,  291,  and  346. 

Strawberry  beds  made  in  August  and  September,  as  well 
as  those  of  greater,  age,  may  be  covered  up  with  leaves, 
light  manure,  salt  hay,  or  other  litter. 


392  MONTHLY  CALENDAK.  [December. 

Protect  the  beds  where  fruit  seeds  and  cuttings  were 
planted  last  month,  by  a  covering  of  light  manure,  compost, 
or  leaves  of  trees. 

Winter  pruning  may-  be  performed  this  month  on  some 
species  of  hardy  trees,  shrubs,  vines,  &c.  and  continued  at 
all  opportunities  throughout  the  next  month,  253. 


"  A  wet  sultry  Summer,  prognostics  affirm, 
A  boist'rous  Autumn  will  bring  in  its  turn  ; 
A  cold  sour  Autumn  and  ISummer  portend 
A  Winter  severe  from  beginning  to  end." 

- 

VEGETABLE     DEPARTMENT. 

If  all  was  not  done  as  directed  last  month,  there  is  now 
no  time  to  be  lost.  Every  thing  that  needs  protection 
should  be  timely  attended  to,  and  if  the  weather  continues 
open,  some  of  the  ground  may  be  ploughed  or  trenched,  to 
receive  the  benefit  of  Winter  frosts.  Collect  all  your  pea 
sticks  and  bean  poles  together,  and  place  them  undercover 
to  prevent  their  rotting.  Turn  over  compost  heaps,  and 
provide  manure  for  another  year. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  having  Cucumbers  or  Melons, 
early  in  the  ensuing  Spring,  and  that  have  not  the  conveni- 
ence for  forcing  them  in  the  ordinary  way,  may  dig  a  few 
grass  sods  or  turfs,  before  it  freezes  hard,  and  stow  them 
away  out  of  the  reach  of  frost,  through  the  Winter. 
These  being  placed  on  the  top  of  a  hot-bed,  in  March  or 
early  in  April,  with  the  grass  downwards  ;  and  Cucumber 
or  Melon  seeds,  planted  in  the  earthy  part  thereof,  early 
plants  may  he  produced  which  can  be  removed  with  the 
turfs  without  disturbing  their  growth,  and  cultivated  either 
on  the  ridge  system,  as  recommended  in  page  119,  or  in  the 
open  ground,  provided  they  can  be  kept  growing  in  frames 
until  settled  warm  weather.  This  is  also  an  excellent  plan 
in  early  forcing,  as  it  saves  trouble  as  well  as  risk,  in  trans- 
planting seedling  plants  into  the  fruiting  beds. 

If  not  done  last  month,  dress  your  Artichoke  beds,  and 
cover  them  as  recommended  page  25.  Defend  Mushroom 
beds  with  dry  straw,  or  long  stable  litter,  and  cover  such  as 


December.]  MONTHLY  CALENDAR.  393 

may  be  exposed,  with  mats,  as  security  against  cold.  In  all 
moderate  weather  through  the  Winter,  give  air  to  Cabbage, 
Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  and  such  other  plants  as  may  be  in 
frames,  being  careful  to  cover  them  every  night  with  mats, 
boards,  litter,  &c.  as  necessity  may  require. 

As  the  year  is  drawing  to  a  close,  I  would  solicit  the  gar- 
dener to  review  the  results  of  his  practice  throughout  the 
past  season,  that  he  may  be  able  to  judge  how  to  act  for 
the  future. 

In  sketching  a  plan  of  his  garden  for  the  next  year,  he 
ought  to  make  provision  for  a  full  supply  of  such  vegetables 
as  are  best  calculated  to  sell,  and  yield  a  fair  profit ;  with 
this  object  in  view,  I  would  suggest  that  he  take  a  retro- 
spective  view  of  his  previous  management,  and  also  of  the 
directions  given  in  the  preceding  chapters  relative  to  the 
preparation  of  the  soil;  by  ploughing,  trenching,  pulverizing, 
manuring,  &c.  as  circumstances  may  require  ;  bearing  in 
mind,  that  although  clayey  soils  may  be  benefitted  by  Fall 
ridging,  light  sandy  ground  should  lay  flat  through  the 
Winter. 

FLOWER    DEPARTMENT. 

If  all  was  not  done  as  directed  last  month,  there  is  now 
no  time  to  be  lost.  All  kinds  of  tender  plants  in  pots, 
should  be  set  into  frames  or  pits,  and  plunged  in  old  tan  or 
light  mould ;  and  in  the  event  of  severe  frosts,  coverings  of 
mats,  straw,  &c.  must  be  laid  over  them. 

Greenhouse  plants  will  need  constant  care  and  attention. 
When  water  is  necessary,  let  it  be  given  in  mild  weather, 
217.  In  case  of  accidents  happening  from  frost,  I  would 
remark,  that  the  sudden  transition  from  cold  to  heat,  is  often 
more  destructive  to  plants  than  frost  itself.  If,  therefore, 
plants  get  frozen,  and  cannot  be  screened  from  the  rays  of 
the  Sun,  they  should  be  watered  as  the  air  gets  warm,  and 
before  they  begin  to  thaw.  If  sufficient  attention  be  paid, 
so  as  to  have  the  temperature  of  the  house  gradually  rising, 
as  the  water  is  sprinkled  over  the  leaves,  it  may  be  a  means 
of  preserving  plants  that  would  otherwise  be  destroyed. 

See  that  the  greenhouse,  or  room  in  which  plants  are  kept, 
is  so  secure  as  to  prevent  the  intrusion  of  cold  air,  or  the 
departure  of  warm  air  in  the  night  season. 


394  MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  [December. 

Collect  from  heaths  and  rocks,  such  kinds  of  earth  as  arc 
suited  to  the  different  species  of  exotic  plants,  and  gather  up 
leaves  of  trees.  If  you  intend  to  make  hot-beds  of  them, 
they  should  be  put  together  dry  ;  but  if  you  intend  them  for 
compost,  they  may  be  laid  together  as  wet  as  possible,  in 
order  that  they  may  rot,  for  use  in  succeeding  years. 

FRUIT     DEPARTMENT. 

If  any  of  the  work  recommended  to  be  done  in  the  last 
month  was  not  accomplished,  let  it  be  done  with  all  possible 
dispatch  this  month,  as  we  know  not  what  a  day  may  bring 
forth. 

Protect  the  stems  of  newly-planted  trees.  Cover  with 
litter  the  roots  of  Grape  Vines  and  Figs  against  walls,  and 
cover  the  branches  with  mats,  &c.  In  temperate  climates 
prune  Apple,  Pear,  Quince,  and  other  hardy  fruit  trees;  cut 
out  rotten  and  decaying  branches,  253. 

To  destroy  insects  on  the  fruit  trees,  and  prevent  them 
from  creeping  up  and  breeding  on  them,  do  as  follows  : 

Take  a  strong  knife  with  a  sharp  point,  and  a  sharp  hook- 
like  iron  made  for  the  purpose  ;  with  these  scrape  clean  off 
all  the  moss  and  outside  rough  bark,  and  with  the  knife  pick 
out  or  cut  away  cankered  parts  of  the  bark  and  of  the  wood, 
in  such  a  slanting  manner  that  water  cannot  lodge  in  the 
sides  of  the  stems  of  the  trees.  Having  cleared  the  trees  in 
this  way,  make  up  a  mixture  of  lime,  soot  and  sulphur ; 
put  these  ingredients  into  a  pot  or  tub,  pour  boiling  water 
upon  them,  and  with  a  stick  stir  and  mix  them  well  together. 
When  this  strong  mixture  becomes  cold,  and  about  the 
thickness  of  white-wash,  take  a  brush,  dip  it  in  the  mixture, 
and  apply  it  to  the  stems  and  large  branches  of  the  trees, 
dabbing  it  well  into  the  hollow  parts  of  the  bark. 

The  pruning  of  hardy  fruit  trees  and  hardy  shrubs  may 
be  performed  at  all  favourable  opportunities  through  the 
Winter,  251  to  254. 

For  farther  information  on  the  Winter  management  of 
Fruit  Trees,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  articles  commen- 
cing pages  239,  244,  251  and  259. 


395 


VEGETABLES,  HERBS,  FLOWERS  & 


Veget  Abies. 


Page                                              Page 

Artichoke                       23—382  Mushroom          113,  124,  &  382 

Asparagus                     27—  105  '.  Melon           .        63—  119  &392 

Beans,  Eng.  Dwarf     31—107;  Melon,  Water 

64 

Beans,  Kidney  Dwarf  33—107  Mustard, 

65-123 

Beans,  Pole  or  Running       34  Nasturtium    . 

"66 

Beet               .            .             36   Okra 

66 

Borecole,  or  Kale     .             37  Onion 

67 

Brussels  Sprouts       .             38   Parsley 

69 

Broccoli         .            .     39—108  Parsnip 

70 

Cauliflower  .            ,    42—108  Pepper 

71 

Cabbage        .             .     45—101    Peas 

72  &  120 

Colewort,  or  Collards            47   Potatoe 

74  &  120 

Cardoon  Artichoke                48   Potatoe,  Sweet 

75 

Carrot            .            .             49  Pumpkin      . 

75 

Celery                        .             50   Radish 

76  &  121 

Corn  Salad  or  Fetticus         53   Rocambole,  Garlic, 

fce.         77 

Cress             .             .    54—  123  Rhubarb 

78—122 

Cress  Water              .             48  Salsify 

80 

Chives            .           .             56  Scorzonera    . 

81 

Cucumber     55,  109,  112  &  392  Sea  Kale 

82-107 

Egg  Plant     .     56,  101,  &  123  Skirret 

84 

Endive           .            .58  Shallot 

85 

Horse  Radish            ,             59  Spinach 

86 

Indian  Corn  .                          60  Squash 

87 

Jerusalem  Artichoke              60   Tornatoe 

88-123 

Leek              .            .             61   Turnip,  French  or  Navet      47 

Lettuce          .             .    61—112  Turnip,  Russian       .            93 

llerbs  and  Flower*. 


Annual  Flower  Seeds,  a  Catalogue  of          ...        136 
Aromatic,  Pot  and  Sweet  Herbs,  a  Catalogue  of  .  94—95 

Biennial  and  Perennial  Flower  Seeds,  a  Catalogue  of          147 
Climbing  Plants  .....        139,  150  &  162 

Chrysanthemums,  a  Catalogue  of         ....        219 

Double  Dahlias,  a  Catalogue  of  ...      188  to  195 

Edgings,  Lawns,  &c.  .....        133—154 

Greenhouse  Plants,  Descriptire  Catalogue  of  .  .  221 
Greenhouse  Plants,  Management  of  .  .  .  215  —  220 
Herbs,  Pot,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal,  Culture  of  96,  97  &  368 


396 


INDEX. 


Herbs,  to  Preserve 96  376  &  387 

Roses,  running  kinds  of        .        .         .         ...  165 

Salad  Herbs,  ....         53,  54,  65,  94,  96,  &  123 

Shrubs,  Fiowering  and  Ornamental  .        .        155  to  165 


Poetic  Pieces. 


To  raise  your  Flowers         134 
Spring    '  141 

First  Flowers  154 


The  Beauties  of  April  and 


May 
Matrimonial  Garden 


170  to  178 
234 


Bullions  ami  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants. 


Amaryllis 

Anemone  &  Ranunculus 

Crocus 

Crown  Imperial 

Colchicum 

Cyclamen 

Double  Dahlia 

Gladiolus 

Hyacinth 

Iris 

Ixia 


183 

Jonquil 

184 

Lachenalia 

185 

Lily 

185 

Narcissus 

386 
J86 

Ornithogalum 
Oxalis 

186 

Paeony 

198 

Tulip 

199 

Tuberose 

200 

Tiger  Flower 

201 

201 
202 
202 
203 
204 
205 
205 
206 
210 
211 


Fruits. 


Apple 

Apricot 

A  Imond 

Cherry 

Chestnut 

Cranberry 

Currant 

Fig 

Filbart 

Gooseberry 

Grape 


263  Mulberry  307 

272 '  Nectarine  309 

275 'Oranga,  Lemon,  &c.  314 

276  peach        ,  316 

28 1 1  Pear  327 

282  Plum  336 

283  Quince  343 
285 1  Raspberry  344 

287  Strawberry  346 

288  Walnut  350 
293 


INDEX  TO  THE  GENERAL  MATTER. 


Adaptation  of  the  directions  in  this  book  to  all  climates,  23  &355 
Animal  and  Vegetable  Matter  compared  218—319 

Air,  Heat,  Light,  and  Moisture,  essential  to 

Vegetation  57,  134,  146,  217  &  358 

Annual,  Biennial  and  Perennial  plants  defined,  95,  135  &  146 
Ashes  valuable  to  the  Farmer,  92,  248  to  250 

Aspect,  Situation,  &c.  7, 131, 181,  &  239 

Awning  necassary  to  protect  choice  Flowers     185, 200,  &  210 


inrotx.  397 

Page. 

Blank  Book,  recommended,  8,  100,  143,  209  &  357 

Budding  and  Grafting  Fruit  Trees,  &c.  168,  255  to  259 

Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Roots,  defined, 
Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Roots,  management  of 
Camellias,  or  Japan  Roses,  cultivation  of  360,  361  <fc  391 

Changeable  Flower  Garden  153 

Choice  of  Fruit  Trees  in  the  Nursery  259 

Deep  Planting,  Destructive  toTrees,&c.  22,  311, 319,337  &  367 
Drilling  System  recommended,  11,  16,  46,  93  &  98 

Durability  of  thegerminative  properties  of  Seeds,17  to  21  &134 
Definition  of  the  term  Hi  LL,  55 

Diseases  of  Trees,  Insects,  &c.  244,  260,  311  &  3^ 

Double  Dahlias,  General  Management  of  181  &  Igg 

Effects  of  cultivation  exemplified  in  Celery,  50 

Evil  effects  of  sowing  prematurely  9,  20,  36,  49,  58,  &  92 

Flower  Garden,  Observations  on  131,  134,  146,  155,  fc  179 
Forcing  Vegetables,  Observations  on  102 

Fruit  to  Protect  and  Preserve  374,  378,  380,  388  &  391 

Garden  Tools,  &c.  indispensably  necessary  11, 140,  254  &  255 
General  Observations  on  the  Kitchen  Garden,  7  to  22 

Grafting  Clay,  Composition,  &c.  to  make  259 

Hedges  of  Shrubs,  131—155 

Hot-beds,  Management  of  101  to  110,  359  &  362 

Inmates   of  the    Garden,   Natives    of  Various 

Climates  19,  57,  131,  134,  146  &  2l5 

Insects,  to  destroy  12,  13,  92,  244  to  250  &  311 

Laying  out  the  Ground,  7, 14,  16,  13l,  380  &  240 

Manure,  Compost,  &c.  10,  92,  109,  218,  296  &  394 

Method  of  cultivating  and  curing  Hops,  125  to  129  &,  376 
Monthly  Calendar,  356  to  394 

Observations  on  the  Fruit  Garden  and  Orchard  239 

Plan  of  Beds,  &c.  17,  97  to  101—131 

Plants  often  killed  with  kindness  217,  220,  358  &  360 

Perennial  Plants,  to  propagate  151, 154,  166,  215  &  385 

precision  in  small  matters,  important,  15,  41,  57,  62  &  92 

Primulas  and  Polyanthus,  cultivation  of  364  &  365 

Protection  of  Flower  Beds  155,181,  184  &  210 

Propagation  of  Shruhg  and  Greenhouse  Plants,  166  &.  220 

Pruning  &  Training  Fruit  Trees,Vines,  156,  169, 251  366,  &  379 
Rolling  recommended,  11,  15  &  50 

Roses,  management  of  364—379 

Rotation  of  Crops,  observations  on  14,  91,  97  to  100 

Shifting,  Potting,  £  Replenishing  Greenhouse  Plants  218—383 
Shrubby.Greenhouse  Plants,  management  of  166,  220,  361  &380 
Soils,  Management  of  9,  27,  91,  141,  180  &  240 

Sowing  Season,  9,  20,  33,  92,  356  ot  394 

Summer  Complaint,  a  remedy  for  372 

Tables,  Classifications,  Estimates,  etc.  16,  19,  354  &  400 

Thermometer  recommended,  105—358 

Transplanting  Seedling  Plants,  &c  16,  22,'24,  43,  46,  145&  31 1 
Temperance  in  the  use  of  water  recommended  217-218  &35S 
Vegetables,  to  preserve,  387,  389  &  392 

Weather,  observations  and  prognostics  on  352  to  392 

34 


RETROSPECTIVE  VIEW. 

This  summary  view  of  estimates  is  annexed,  in  order  to  aid 
the  Seedsman  and  Gardener  in  making  out  a  bill  of  seeds  for 
the  purpose  of  planting  any  given  quantity  of  ground,  under 
the  regulations  suggested  in  the  preceding  chapters  of  this 
\rork,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred  fora  more  concise  view 
of  the  subject.  Page. 

Artichoke  ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  600  plants 
Asparagus  ;  one  ounce  will  be  sufficient  tor  1,000  plants,       27 
Beans,  English  Dwarf;  one  quart  of  seed  wttl  be  required 

for  every  sixty  feet  of  row,  32 

Beans,  Kidney  Dwarf;  one  quart  of  seed  will  plant  from 
350  to  400  hills,  or  from  230  to  260  feet  of  row,  as  ex- 
plained in  page       ...  .  .  .34 

Beans  Pole,  or  Running;  one  quart  of  Lima,  or  large  run. 
,  ning  Beans,   will  plant   100  hills.     One  quart  of  the 

small  runners  will  plant  about  300  hills,  or  250  ft.  of  row,     35 
Beet ;  one  ounce  may  be  allotted  for  every  perch,  or  pole        37 
Borecole,  or  Kale  ;  an  ounce  will  produce,  4,000  plants,      38 
Broccoli ;  one  ounce  is  sufficient  for  4,000  plants,  41 

Cauliflower;  an  ounce  of  this  seed  will  produce  4,000  plants,    44 
Cabbage;  one    ounce  will  produce  4,000  plants,  46 

Cardoon  Artichoke;  an  ounce  will  produce  600  plants,          48 
Carrot;  half  an  ounce  may  be  allotted  for  every  pole,          50 
Oelery  ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  10,000  plants,  51 

Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus;  one  ounce  of  seed,  will  sow 

about  two  poles  of  ground,  .  .54 

Cucumber  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  200  hills,      56 
Egg  Plant;   an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  4,000  plants,      57 
Endive,  or  Succory  ;  an  onnse  will  yield  5,000  plants,         58 
Leek;  one  ounce  of  seed  may  be  allotted  for  3,000 plants,     61 
Lettuce  ;  an  ounce  will  produce,  say  10000  plants,  t>2" 

Melon  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  from  120  to  150  hills,     64 
Melon,  Water ;  an  ounce  will  plant  from  40  to  50  hills,        65 
Onion  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  may  be  allotted  for  every  pole,     67 
Parsley  ;  two  ounces  may  be  allowed  for  three  perches,      69 
Parsnip;  two  ounces  may  be  allotted  for  three  perches,      70 
Pepper;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  3000  plants,  71 

Peas  ;  one  quart  will  plant  from  150  to  200  feet  of  row,      73 
Potatoes;  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bushels  may  be  alloted 

for  an  acre,  ,  .  .  .74 

Potatoe,  Sweet;  half  a  peck  of  seed,  properly  managed, 

will  produce  15  bushels,  .  75 

Pumpkin;  one  quart  of  field  Pumpkin  will   plant  from 
5  to  600  hills,  and  one  ounce  of  the  finest  kinds   will 
plant  from  50  to  80  hills,  .  .76 

Radish;  four  ounces  will  do  for  every  three  perches,  if  sown 
broadcast,  and  about  half  the  quantity  if  sown  in  drills.  77 
Salsify;  two  ounces  of  this  seed  will  plant  three  perches.    81 
Shallots  ;   four  bushels  of  bulbs  will  plant  forty  pole  ....    85 

Spinach  ;  if  cultivated  in  drills,  four  ounces  will  plant  five 
perches  of  land.     If  broadcast,  it  will  require  double  the 
quantity.  .  86 

Squash  ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  plantfrom50  to  100  hills, 

according  to  sorts  and  size.     ....  88 

Tonaatoe  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  4,000  plants         89 
Turnip ;  one  pound  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  land.  02 


399 
QUANTITY  OF  GRASS  SEED  SUITABLE  TO  THE  ACRE. 

Clover,  sown  alone      12  pounds  I  Orchard  Grass  2  bushels 

Timothy  1  peck.          ]  Rye  Grass.  2  bushels* 

Herds  Grass  1  bushel.        |  Lucerne  8  pounds. 

For  a  pasture  for  grazing,  the  following  mixtures  of  seed  would  be 
found  excellent,  viz :  6  pounds  of  clover  seed,  1  peck  of  herds  grass* 
and  half  a  bushel  of  Orchard  grass  seed— or  6  pounds  clover,  half  a 
bushel  of  rye  grass,  and  half  a  bushel  of  tall  meadow  oat  seeds. 


RETROSPECTIVE  VIEW  OF  THIS  EDITION  OF  THE 
YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT. 

While  making  the  preceding  index,  I  availed  myself  of  the  opportunity 
afforded  me  of  surveying  the  fruits  of  my  labour  ;  and,  although  I  have 
to  crave  the  reader's  indulgence  for  several  errors  of  the  press  and  slips 
of  the  pen,  which  appear  unavoidable  in  a  work  of  this  kind,  I  think  I 
may  assert,  without  exposing  myself  to  the  charge  of  arrogance  or 
egotism,  that  this  edition  very  far  excels  those  before  published,  not  only 
as  to  the  a  Mitional  amount  of  information  it  contains,  butfrom  the  im- 
proved method  in  which  the  instructions  are  exhibited  to  the  reader, 
who  will,  I  am  persuaded  discover  on  an  attentive  perusal  of  the  work, 
that  he  has  the  various  subjects  laid  before  him  in  a  concise,  and  at  the 
tame  time  an  explicit  manner.  Several  new  and  interesting  article* 
have  been  composed  expressly  for  this  edition,  on  various  subjects, 
some  of  which  it  is  presumed,  have  never  before  been  discussed  for 
publication.  The  reader  is  referred  to  pages,  19,  23,  134,  146,  166,  220, 
311,  319  and  337;  also  introduction  to  the  calendar  and  index. 

T.    BRIDGEMAtf, 

New-York,  March,  1840. 


4  00  AD  V  EKT ISE  M  3  N  Y. 

?^ec8t  amr  jFiotoer 

GREENHOUSE   PLANTS, 

BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTS,    Sfc.  Sfc 


T.  BRIDGEMAN  would  here  remind  his  friends  that  he  has  a  Seed 
Store  and  Greenhouse,  corner  of  Eighteenth  st.  and  Broadway,  immedi- 
ately north  of  Union  Place  Park ;  and  West  of  the  New- York  and  Har- 
laem  Rail  Road  ;  and  he  trusts  he  shall  not  be  accused  of  arrogance  or 
egotism  for  a-serting  his  belief  that  upwards  of  twenty  years'  experience 
as  a  Gardener,  and  fourteen  as  a  Seedsman,  in  the  vicinity  of  New- York, 
entitle  him  to  the  confidence  of  the  public, 

He  can  only  here  enumerate  a  few  of  the  leading  articles  in  his  collec- 
tion, which  he  can  conscientiously  recommend  as  being  well  calculated 
to  suit  the  market. 

GARDEN  SEEDS.— A  full  assortment  of  all  those  varieties  of  vege- 
table seeds  that  have  been  tested  in  this  climate,  and  proved  to  have  some 
good  qualities  to  recommend  them ;  none  others  will  be  offered  at  the 
counter. 

HERB  SEEDS.— Including  Sage,  Thyme,  S  weet Marjoram,  Summer 
Savory,  &c. 

FLOWER  SEEDS — Annual,  Biennial  and  Perennial  Flower  Seeds 
of  the  most  esteemed  varieties. 

GREENHOUSE  PLAN  IS.— Consisting  of  several  choice  varieties 
of  Geraniums,  or  Pelargoniums,  China  Roses,  Cammelias,  or  Japan  Ro- 
ses, Carnations  and  various  ornamental  Plants,  including  Orange,  Le- 
mon Trees,  &c. 

BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTS —Hyacinths,  Tulips, 
Narcissus,  and  such  other  bulbs  as  are  calculated  to  blossom  in  pots  or 
glasses  ;  also,  Gladioluses,  Tuberoses,  Amaryllises,  Tiger  Flowers,  &e, 
together  with  a  full  assortment  of  DOUBLE  DAHLIAS,  embracing  all 
the  newest  and  most  splendid  varieties*  of  every  shade  and  complexion. 

HORTICULTURAL  BOOKS. 

THE  KITCHEN  GARDENER'S  INSTRUCTOR,  containing  ample  direction* 
for  the  cultivation  of  Culinary  Vegetables,  Herbs,  &c. 

THE  FLORIST'S  Gums,  containing  practical  directions  for  the  cultiva- 
tion of  Flowers.  Third  edition  improved, 

THE  YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT,  containing  practical  directions 
for  the  cultivation  of  Culinary  Vegetables,  Flowers,  Fruit  Trees,  th« 
Grape  Vine,  &c.  &c.  Eighth  edition  enlarged. 

KfSeedsmen  and  Booksellers  supplied  on  liberal  terms. 


MISCELLANEOUS  ARTICLES. 

BIRD  SEEDS— Hemp,  Canary,  Yellow,  Rape,  and  Millett  ;  Flax, 
Timothy,  Clover,  and  Grass  Seeds;  Split  Peas  for  Soup;  Scotch  Barley 
Russian  Mats,  Flower  Pots,  &c  &c.  on  moderate  terms. 

Q3"Bouquets  of  Flowers  tastefully  arranged,  and  delivered  to  order  at 
the  shortest  notice. 


ADVERTISEMENTS.       % 

JUST     PUBLISHED 

The  Kitchen  Gardener's  Instructor  ; 

Containing  a  catalogue  of  Garden  and  Herb  Seeds,  with  practical  direc- 
tions under  each  head,  for  the  cultivation  of  Culinary  Vegetables  and 
Herbs,  with  a  Calendar  showing  the  Work  necessary  to  be  done  in  a 
Kitchen  Garden  in  every  month  throughout  the  season.  Also,  Directions 
for  forcing  and  forwarding  Vegetables  out  of  the  ordinary  season.  By  T. 
Bridgeman,  Gardener,  New-York ;  price  37£  cents,  144  pages,  in  neat 
boards. 

The  above  is  the  title  of  the  best  little  Gardening  Manual  «ver  offered  to 
the  public,  and  in  apropos  time,  as  the  season  is  just  about  opening.  The 
author  of  this  \vork  is  well  known  as  a  practical  gardener,  and  therefore 
writes  from  his  own  experience;  his  directions  for  raising  Asparagus, 
Celery,  Cauliflower,  Broccoli,  Rhubarb  for  tarts,  Tomatoes,  and  M-jshrooms 
are  worth  all  the  price  charged",  as  are  also  his  directions  for  making  and 
sowing  a  hot-bed.  The  Monthly  Calendar  is  of  itself  an  invaluable  part  of 
the  book!  In  short  those  who  are  dissatisfied,  after  a  perusal,  will  have 
their  money  returned. 

G.  C.  THORBURN. 


THE 


"  This  is  one  of  the  bestjworks  oti  the  subject  ever  published  in  an« 
country:  it  contains  Pract'cal  Directions  for  the  Cultivation  of  Annual? 
Biennial,  and  Perennial  Flowering  Plants,  of  different  classes,  Herba- 
ceous and  Shrubby,  Bulbous,  Fibrous,  and  Tuberous-rooted,  including 
the  Double  Dahlia,  Greenhouse  Plants  in  Rooms,  &c.  &c. 

A  Work  of  the  above  kind  has  been  long  wanted  ;  hitherto,  it  re- 
quired an  expenditure  of  some  three  or  four  dollars  to  get  any  sort  of 
readable  directions  for  small  gardens,  window  gardening,  plants  in 
rooms,  &c.  which  when  procured,  were  so  full  of  botanical  foppery, 
that  plain,  honest  people,  after  wading  through  some  throe  or  four  hun- 
dred pages,  were  as  wise  as  to  knowing  how  to  set  about  their  garden- 
ing, as  when  they  commenced  their  book.  The  present  little  work 
obviates  all  these  difficulties.  The  Author  is  well  known  as  one  of  our 
practical  gardeners,  and  it  may  be  truly  said  he  has  rendered  the 
Ladies  in  particular  (for  whom  the  work  was  projected)  an  essential 
service  ;  the  directions  for  the  care  of  the  Camellia  Japonica,  the 
Double  Dahlia,  the  sowing  and  treatment  of  Annual  Flower  Seeds,  are 
alone  worth  double  the  price  of  the  book  ;  so  is  the  Calendarial  Index* 
which,  by  the  untiring  industry  of  Mr.  Bridgeman,  is  made  to  include 
in  some  half  dozen  pages,  more  valuable  information  than  in  some 
ponderous  octavos  on  the  same  subject." 

[Commercial  Advertiser.]         Geo.  C.  Thorburn,  11  John  street, 

34* 


402 

COMMENDATORY    NOTICES 


Extract  of  a  review  of  this  work  in  the  Magazine  of  Horticulture,,. 

Botany,  &c.  published  by  Hovey  &  Co.  Boston: 

"  The  work  is  written  in  plain  language,  easily  to  be  understood  by 
the  young  beginner  in  gardening,  who  will  find  it  a  great  help  ;  and  ita 
value,  even  to  the  partly  experienced  person,  is  by  no  means  of  an  ordi- 
nary character.  IT  is  ADAPTKD  TO  OUR  CLIMATE,  and  unlike  compila- 
tions from  English  works,  the  novice  is  not  led  into  disappointment  by 
following  the  rules  there  laid  down,  as  he  generally  is,  when  following 
advice  of  the  latter.  We  repeat,  that  as  far  as  the  book  pretends,  IT  is 

WORTH  ALL  OTHERS  OF  A  SIMILAR    CHARACTER    THAT    HAVE    EVER    BEEN 

PUBLISHED  IN  THIS  COUNTRY  ?  and  its  cheapness  should  place  it  in  the 
hands  of  all  new  beginners.'' 

Extract  of  a  letter  from  Lansingburgh : — 

"  Dear  Sir, — You  will  see  by  the  next  month's  New  York  Farmer>  if 
you  have  not  already  seen  by  the  Albany  papersi  that  several  copies  of 
your  'Young  Gardener's  Assistant'  have  .been  given  as  premiums,  by 
the  State  Agricultural  Society.  Mr.  D.  B.  Slingerland  and  myself 
were  on  thfl  committee  for  awarding  premiums,  and  thought  your  work 
was  deserving  encouragement,  and  that  even  in  this  small  way,  we 
might  be  of  service  in  bringing  it  before  the  public  as  worthy  of  being 
given  as  PREMIUMS.  "ALEXANDER  WALSH." 

"The  first  edition  of  'The  Young  Gardener's  Assistant' has  been 
favourably  noticed  in  France  : — "  One  of  the  leading  articles  of  the 
Annales  de  V  Institute  Royal  Horticole  de.  Fromont,  is  a  long  notice  of 
'The  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,'  by  Mr.  Thomas  Bridgeman,  of  this 
city.  The  editor,  Le  Chevalier  Soulauge  Boclin,  speaks  of  the  little 
work  in  very  commendable  terms." — New-York  Farmer. 

"Among  the  plants,  for  the  cultivation  of  which  'The  Young  Gar 
dener's  Assistant  contains  directions,  are  a  number  of  culinary  vegeta- 
bles not  generally  introduced  into  the  United  States.  The  introduction 
and  successful  cultivation  of  useful  foreign  vegetables  add  to  the  resour- 
ces of  our  country.  We  recently  saw,  for  instance,  in  Bridgeman'9 
garden,  several  varieties  of  Broad  Beans,  Viciafaba,  in  a  most  vigorous 
and  thrifty  growth.  They  occupied  a  clayey  spot  of  ground  that  was 
not  suitable  so  early  in  the  season  for  any  other  vegetable.  They  put 
forth  a  beautiful  blossom,  and  would  serve  as  an  ornament  for  the 
flower  garden. — New-York  Farmer. 

"  From  the  systematic  arrangement  of  the  parts,  under  appropriate 
heads,  and  the  plain  and  practical  nature  of  the  instructions,  it  must  be 
an  invaluable  manual  for  those  who  may  wish  to  superintend  the 
management  of  their  own  gardens. — Albany  Argus. 

"  It  will  we  are  persuaded  be  found,  what  the  writer  intends  it  shall 
be,  '  generally  useful  to  such  as  may  wish  to  superintend,  or  take  the 
management  of  their  own  gardens.'  Mr.  Bridgeman  is  a  gardener 
himself,  in  the  Bowery  road,  and  his  directions  are  therefore  applicable 
to  our  climate — an  advantage  of  no  little  moment." — American. 


COMMENDATORY  NOTICES. 

"  Written  with  a  good  deal  of  practical  knowledge  of  the  subject  or*' 
which  it  treats.  The  directions  given,  the  author  says,  are  the  result  of 
twenty  years'  experience,  and  we  dare  to  say,  that  though  submitted  Ju- 
an unpretending  form,  they  will  be  found  as  useful,  if  not  more  so,  than- 
those  in  more  costly  and  expensive  works." — Courier  &  Enquirer. 

"  No  work  on  the  subject  of  Kitchen  Gardening,  ever  published  in  this 
country,  has  met  with  so  very  general  approbation  and  extensive  sale. 
Mr.  Bridgeman  is  well  known  as  one  of  our  best  gardeners,  and  writ«»- 
from  his  own  experience.' — Daily  Advertiser. 

"The  calendarial  index  is  invaluable,  aud  of  itself  worth  the  price  of 
the  book."— Commercial. 

"  That  work  which  teaches  us  how  to  create  -md  to  improve  thig 
most  innocent  and  useful  source  of  pleasure,  is  surely  worthy  of 
applause  and  patronage;  and  such  we  consider 'The  Young  Gardener's 
Assistant.' — Advocate. 

"  The  work  is  calculated  to  be  of  immense  service  to  those  engaged 
in  Agriculture,  '  far  Irom  the  busy  haunts  of  men,'  and  to  the  disciples 
of  Flora,  in  the  city.  Mr.  Bridgeman  is  a  practical  gardener  and  seeds- 
man, and  has  lived  many  years  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic.5' — Old 
Countryman. 

"  From  what  we  gather  from  the  tenor  of  Mr.  Bridgeman's  book,  we 
should  suppose  that  he  paid  but  little  attention  to  the  mere  on  dits  or 
dictums  of  any,  but  that  he  pursued  that  course  which  his  judgment 
pointed  out ;  and  in  this  particular,  we  value  his  book — leading  the 
young  gardener  to  learn  to  depend  more  on  his  own  judgment  than  on 
the  rules  of  custom. — American  Farmer. 

"All  those  who  are  desirous  of  a  work  on  the  subject  of  Gardening, 
and  one  which  will  convey  the  best  information  on  the  management  of 
Hot-beds,  Asparagus  beds,  best  mode  of  raising  all  sorts  of  Esculent 
Vegetables,  Pruning,  Grafting  and  Buddin  r  Fruit  Trees-  Training  th* 
Vine,  Preserving  the  Fruit  from  Mildew,  &c.  should  procure  this.  No 
Work  on  the  subject  ever  published  in  this  country  has  met  with  half  aa 
extensive  a  sale,  or  decided  public  approbation,  as  this  valuable  compen- 
dium. Mr.  Bridgeman  fully  understands  the  subject  on  which  he 
treats.  The  very  rapid  sale  of  the  five  former  editions  is  quite  a  suffi- 
cient recommendation." — G.  C.  Therburn, 

"  We  can  assure  gardeners  and  farmers,  that  they  will  in  times  rvad 
ways  almost  without  number,  be  amply  compensated  by  purchasing  the 
book.  Mr.  B.  bestows  great  labour  on  his  productions  of  the  pen,  not 
only  as  to  practical  matter  of  fact,  but  to  the  various  excellences  of 
style,  particularly  to  clearness,  and  the  avoiding  a  redundancy  of  words. 
The  amount  of  useful  information  in  the  book  constitutes  its  value  ; 
and  all  this  information  is  adapted  to  this  country,  and  its  climate  and 
soil." — American  Gardener's  Magazine. 

"BRIDGEMAN'S  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT. — The  sixth  edition  of  this 
useful  little  manual  is  published,  and  is  rendered  of  increased  value  by 
the  addition  of  several  matters  not  contained  in  either  of  the  former 
editions.  Among  these  is  a  short  and  convenient  calendar  to  assist  the 
gardener's  memory." — Evening  vPost. 

"  From  the  cursory  examination  we  have  been  enabled  to  give  '  The 
Young  Gardeners's  Assistant,'  we  should  judge  that  it  embraces  a 
greater  amount  of  practical  information,  applicable  to  eur  climate, 
than  can  be  found  in  any  similar  work.  The  list  of  fruit  trees  has  been 
selected  from  the  best  authorities,  both  foreign  and  American,  and  is 
sufficiently  extensive  for  any  cultivator  in  this  country."— Newark, 
Daily  Advertiser. 


404 

COMMENDATORY  NOTICES  OF  THE  FLORIST'S  GUIDE, 


THK  FLORIST'S  GUIDE. — A  delightful  little  book,  which  we  advise 
every  body  to  purchase — at  least  every  body  that  has  the  least  liking  for 
the  pleasing  occupation  on  which  it  treats. — Courier  &  Enquirer. 

Mr.  Bridgeman,  of  this  city,  has  published  a  neat  little  work,  entitled 
'The  Florist's  Guide,'  containing  directions  for  the  cultivation  of  flow- 
ers. It  is  a  pleasant  and  instructive  little  book. — Times. 

"  The  Florist's  Guide,"  like  its  companion,  "  The  Young  Gardener*! 
Assistant,'1  is  a  useful  work,  which  every  Gardener  and  Florist  may 
consult  to  advantage.  It  gives  minute  directions  concerning  plants  of 
various  species;  the  names  and  characters  of  each  being  alphabetically 
arranged,  makes  it  an  invaluable  manual  for  those  who  may  wish  to 
superintend  the  management  of  their  own  gardens." — Newark  D.  Adv. 

"  The  style  is  free,  and  the  language  appropriate ;  the  plan  is  judicious, 
and  the  contents  embrace  much  well  arranged  practical  information, 
unencumbered  with  disquisitions  foreign  to  the  object  of  the  work. 
We  very  cheerfully  recommend  it  to  our  readers  as  a  cheap  and  useful 
book.'5 — Gardener's  Magazine. 

THE  FLORIST'S  GUIDE  is  the  title  of  a  duedecimo  volume,  of  140 
pages,  just  issued  from  the  press  in  this  city.  It  is  the  production  of 
Mr.  T.  Bridgeman,  Gardener,  Seedsman,  and  Florist,  and  contains 
directions  for  the  cultivation  of  Annual,  Biennial,  and  Perennial 
Flowering  Plants,  of  different  classes.  A  work  of  this  description  can- 
not but  prove  valuable  to  Horticulturists,  particularly  to  those  Ladies 
who  are  fond  of  that  healthful  employment  of  cultivating  their  own 
flower-beds. — Gazette. 

We  observe  that  Mr.  T.  Bridgeman,  the  ingenious  author  of  '  The 
Young  Gardener's  Assistant,'  has  put  to  press  another  work,  entitled 
'  The  Florist's  Guide,'  containing  directions  [for  cultivating  flowering 
plants  and  greenhouse  plants  of  every  description.  It  is  very  neatly 
printed,  and  although  extending  to  130  pages,  is  offered  at  the  low. 
price  of  37  i  cents  per  copy. — Old  Countryman. 


7/jP  I  have  selected  the  foregoing  notices  from  a  long  list  of  equally 
flattering  testimonials  relative  to  the  merits  of  these  work?*  This'curtail. 
ment  was  rendered  necessary  by  the  very  valuable  additional  informa- 
tion incoi  porated  in  the  present  volumes,  which  will  be  found  much  more 
complete  than  any  of  their  predecessors.  According  to  my  humble  opinion, 
Shis  will  add  to  the  well-earned  celebrity  of  their  Author,  and  place  his  re- 
putation on  a  permanent  basis,  as  a  sound,  judicious,  and  able  writer  on* 
u  the  delightful  Art  of  Gardening  "  THE  PRINTER* 


405 


PEOPLE  OF  THE  l:\ITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA, 


FF.L LOW  CITIZENS  I 

An  application  having  been  made  to  your  representatives  in  Con- 
gress, to  vote  a  sum  equal  to  five  cents  from  each  individual  in  the 
United  States  OR  ABOUT  A  MILLION'  DOLLARS  OF  YOUR  RESOURCES,  to  the 
promotion  of  an  improved  system  of  "  Terra-c-ilture^  as  described  in 
Senate,  document  No  23,  of  the  third  session  of  the  25th  Congress,  I 
hereby  direct  your  attention  to  a  few  extracts  taken  from  the  applicant'* 
preamble;  copies  of  which  have  been  forwarded  to  each- member  oftha 
V6th  Congress,  in  session  November  30,  1839. 

From  the  Poughkeepsie  Eagle,  Saturday  Morning,  January  25,  1840. 

PRESERVATION  OF  FRUIT  TREES,  PLANTS,  &c- 
GREAT  DISCOVERY. 

To  the  Hon.  Perry  Smith,  chairman  of  the  United  Plates  Senate 
Committee  on  Agriculture  of  the  25th  Congress.  "With"  the  consent 
and  by  the  advice  on  the  23d  inst,  of  the  chauaian  of  the  Unite  I  States 
Senate  Committee  on  Agriculture  of  the  25th  C«  ngress,  I  forward  to 
each  member  of  the  28th  ( 'ongress,  the  accompanying  document  dated 
the  14th  inst;  the  object  is  t)  show  you  soma.  of  the  proof  that  a  di  covery 
of  vital  importance  to  civilized  mail  has  been  made,  which  in  several 
letters  from  different  members  of  the  present  and  last  Congress,  is  valued 
at  HUNDREDS  OF  MILLIONS  OF  DAYS'  LABOUR,  AND  WORTH  MORE  THAN  AL* 

THE  DISCOVERIES  OF  THE  PRESKNT  AGE  COMBINED THE  APPLIC  ATIONOF 

•TEAM  NOT  EXCEPTED" 

"  For  what  purpose  would  all  the  owners  of  the  public  lands  more 
freely  or  gratefully  consent  to  give  one  hundreth  part  of  those  lands,  or 
the  proceeds  thereof?  Would  they  not  be  grateful  to  those  members  of 
Congress,  who  assist  in  giving  the  owners  of  the  public  domain  thfr 
desired  information,  and  reverence  them  as  benefactors  of  human  kind." 

"  For  the  honour  of  the  republic,  for  the  honour  of  the  age,  and  for 
the  interest  and  comfort  of  the  living,  as  well  as  the  unborn,  let  not  that 
discovery  which  may  cause  two  seeds  to  ripen  where  one  now  does, 
which  prevents  the  premature  death  of  all  cultivated  trees,  which  has 
been  searched  for  in  vain  during  tl*e  history  of  all  civilized  society,  die 
with  the  discoverer  for  want  of  the  action  of  the  United  States  Congress." 

Our  patriotic  discoverer  ':  claims  the  following  five  discoveries  as  his, 
besides  other  discoveries  which  are  stated  in  his  memorial  to  the  25tb 
Congress ': — 

1st.  "That  various  diseases,  universally  supposed  to  be  destructive  to 
plants,  are  only  symptoms  that  a  particular  error  in  cultivation  has  been 
committed  ;  and  that  many  other  injurious  effects  have  been  produced 
by  the  same  error,  which  are  attributed  to  other  causes." 

2d.  "That  the  error  is  UNIVERSALLY  COMMITTED,  to  a  greater  or  lew 
extent,  throughout  the  States,  and  that  he  has  seen  an  excess  of  it 
wherever  he  has  been,  which  is  in  the  Atlantic  States,  from  Georgia  to 
Massachusetts  inclusive." 

8d.  "  That  the  PEACH  AND  NECTARINE  are  more  easily  injured  by  the 
error  than  most  other  Fruit  Trees,  and  the  cause  of  their  being  more 
easily  injured  by  it  5  and  that  this  error  causes  them  Ho  be  barren,  Q£ 
" 


406 


4th.  "That  the  application  of  two  known  laws  in  Nature  demonstrate 
the  reality  of  his  discovery  and  its  application  to  the  whole  vegetable 
kingdom;  and  that  by  them,  his  discovery,  (if  publicly  known,)  must  be 
perpetuated,  and  his  practice  more  easily  introduced  ;  and  that  by  these 
two  laws  the  occasional  success  of  common  remedies  is  explained. " 

5th.  "That  the  said  error  is  the  obstacle  which  has  discouraged  ex- 
perimenters, and  lamentably  retarded  improvements  in  the  science  and 
practice  of  agriculture  ;  and  that  he  has  discovered  facts  and  made  him- 
self acquainted  with  knowledge  sufficient  to  reduce  them  to  practice." 

We  are  further  informed,  "  that  it  is  neither  climate,  nor  soil,  nor 
insects,  nor  worms,  that  are  the  cause  of  many  of  the  disastrous  effects 
that  have  been  attributed  to  them,  but  that  those  effects  are  produced  by 
error  in  cultivation  which  diseases  the  smallest  plant  or  largest  tree.*' 

Our  modest  and  patriotic  fellow-citizen  admits  in  the  course  of  hii 
preamble,  "  that  the  practical  part  or'  his  discovery  is  so  EXTREMELY 
SIMPLK  and  economical,  th.tt  it  co?ls  no  more  to  prevent  the  diseisei 
than  it  does  to  produce  them  ;  and  that  it  is  so  different  from  the  esta- 
blished theories  and  habits  of  the  people,  THAT  UNLESS  A  LARGE  AMOUNT 
BE  APPROPRIATED,  many  will  be  unwilling  to  try  it,  and  therefore  the 
PUBLIC  GOOD  seems  to  require  that  a  large  amount  should  be  appropri- 
ated." He  moreover  asserts,  that  "  there  are  two  known  laws  in. 
Nature,  by  which  the  reality  of  his  discovery,  and  its  application  to  the 
whole  vegetable  kingdom,  are  demonstrable  in  less  than  thirty  words." 

That  this  invaluable  secret,  whatever  it  may  be,  is  nr>t  strictly  speaking 
a  new  di  covery,  is  demonstrable  by  numerous  living  witnesses  which 
have  inhabited  the  fields  and  forests  of  the  old  world  for  over  a  thousand 
years  ;  and  our  discoverer  freely  admits,  and  in  very  emphatic  language, 
that  there  are  thousands  of  trees  in  our  own  country  on  which,  what  he 
terms  "the  common  error.'  has  never  been  committed;  and  also,  that 
several  of  the  fifteen  gentlemen  to  whom  he  communicated  his  secret, 
confidently  fof ever,  have  some  such  trees  on  their  own  domains. 

Hear  him*— "  The  Senator  from  Missouri,  (Mr.  Linn,)  said,  that  the 
most  flourishing  and  healthy  Peach  tree  in  his  possession  had  never  had 
what  I  call  the  common  error  in  cultivation  committed  upon  it." 

"  The  Senator  from  Pennsylvania,  (Mr.  McKean,)  said,  that  he  had 
long  supposed  that  what  1  call  the  common  error,  was  an  error,  but  that 
he  had  no  idea  of  such  extensive  evils  arising  from  it." 

"The  Senator  from  Maryland.  (Mr.  Spence,)  said,  that  in  his  district 
it  was  a  universal  custom  to  commit  what  I  call  the  common  error  in 
cultivation,  on  the  fruit  trees,  and  that  it  was  as  common  to  have  no 
Plums  perfect  and  free  from  worms,  excepting  on  a  few  of  his,  on 
which  the  error  had  not  been  committed  for  twenty  years,  if  ever;  and 
those  few  (four)  continued  to  bear  abundantly  annually  ;  that  he  had  no 
recollection  of  ever  seeing  an  imperfect  wormy  Plum  on  either  of  these 
four  trees,  but  that  he  had  never  supposed  that  to  have  been  the  cause 
of  their  perfection.*' 

The  Senator  from  South  Carolina,  (Mr.  Calhoun),  to  whom  I  am 
indebted  for  pointing  out  one  symptom  of  the  error,  and  for  a  valuable 
suggestion  in  the  culture  of  plants,  said,  "while  examining  the  defective 
trees  around  the  Capitol,  that  the  principle  when  exhibited,  was  very 
plain  and  simple,  that  it  was  philosophical,  and  in  his  opinion  it  could 
not  be  neglected  without  injury  to  the  health  and  growth  of  trees  and 
plants,  and  deserving  of  public  patronage." 

"The  Vice  President  of  the  U.  S.  (Mr.  Johnson,)  said,  that  my  dis- 
covery was  perfectly  consistent  with  the  laws  of  Nature ;  and,  (when 
observing  a  few  trees  near  the  Capitol,  which  had  been  injured  by  the 
error,  and  were  recovering,)  further  remarked,  that  my  theory  wa» 
essentially  correct  and  obvious  to  the  most  superficial  observer." 


407 

"  The  member  from  New-York,  (Mr.  Jackson,)  said  that  he  ha<l 
reared  an  orchard  on  which  he  had  carefully  avoided  an  excess  of  what  I 
call  the  common  error,  and  that  it  had  been  admired  as  the  most  flourish- 
ing and  fruitful  orchard  in  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  that  he  had  recently 
§een  a  field  of  Indian  corn,  which  yielded  more  than  one  hundred  bushel* 
of  shelled  grain  to  the  acre,  in  which  an  excess  of  the  error  had  been 
avoided,  while  the  success  was  attributed  to  quite  a  different  cause." 

From  the  preceding  extracts,  it  is  evident  that  this  inestimable  treasure 
lays  near  the  surface  ;  and  from  the  disclosure  having  been  communicated 
to  rational  and  intelligent  minds,  it  is  preposterous  to  expect  that  those 
gentlemen  can,  in  the  pursuit  of  their  rural  avocations,  act  directly  con- 
trary to  knowledge  and  sound  judgment;  they  must,  therefore, necessa- 
rily a»d  unavoidably  communicate  the  secret  by  their  example,  which 
will  eventually  disseminate,  in  proportion  as  mankind  take  an  interest 
in  the  merits  of  the"  alleged  discovery. 

But  lest  the  full  benefits  of  this  invaluable  remedy  should  be  withheld 
from  the  community  for  want  of  the  action  of  the  United  States  Congress, 
I  have  submitted  an  exposition  of  my  ri^ics  of  the  particular  point* 
adverted  to  in  the  preamble,  which  may  be  found  under  the  heads,  Necta- 
rine, Peach,  and  Plum,  pages  311,  319  and  337,  of  the  eighth  edition  of 
the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant ;  and  I  would  furthermore  remind  my 
readers,  that  the  directions  heretofore  given  in  this  and  previous  edition* 
of  the  work,  are  in  strict  accordance  with  the  same  doctrine  ;  and  that 
although  the  error  alluded  to  is  admitted  to  have  been  very  generally 
committed,  I  am  not  aware  that  any  writer  has  evertaught  or  encouraged 
the  error,  either  direct  or  indirect ;  I  confess,  however,  that  I  have  been 
induced  to  expatiate  on  this  malpractice  in  horticulture,  from  the  subject 
having  elicited  the  grave  consideration  of  enlightened  legisla'ors  of  these 
United  States. 

And  lest  these  my  voluntary  disclosures  should  prove  to  have  no 
bearing  on  the  alleged  discovery,  I  would  prepare  the  public  mind  for  it» 
reception  by  an  exhortation  to  TEMPERANCE  AND  MODERATION,  as  the 
only  safe  course  that  can  be  considered  applicable  to  the  cultivation  of 
all  the  varied  species  of  plants,  which  comprise  '  the  whole  vegetable 
kingdom/'  In  articles,  pages  19,  134,  146  and  217,  I  have  shown  that 
the  various  species  of  plants  which  occupy  our  greenhouses,  garden*, 
and  fields,  require  each  their  peculiar  aliment — they  having  been  col- 
lected from  all  the  diversified  regions,  climates,  and  soils  through  earth's 
remotest  bounds;  they  consequently  comprise  natives  of  mountains  and 
rocks,  as  well  as  of  plains,  valleys,  and  Water  courses.  The  most  essen- 
tial aliment  for  natives  of  warm  climates  and  dry  soils  being  HEAT, 
artificial  means  are  used  in  cool  seasons,  and  unpropitious  climates  to 
produce  it.  Natives  of  temperate  climates  require  salubrious  AIR,  hence 
they  are  cultivated  to  the  greatest  perfection  in  our  Northern  States  in 
Spring  and  Autumn ;  and  in  our  Southern  States  in  the  Winter;  see  page 
355,  and  natives  of  humid  climates,  as  also  amphibious  plants  in  general, 
require  a  more  than  ordinary  share  of  MOISTURE,  and  grow  best  in  wet 
soil ;  but  these  THREE  LKMKXTS  collectively  constitute  the  food  of  plant* 
in  general,  and  should  be  judiciously  imparted  to  the  various  species,  in 
due  proportions  according  to  circumstances.  See  pages  41,  54,  57  and 
358,  for  a  more  concise  view  of  this  subject.  I  have  also  shown, 
that  the  roots  of  various  species  of  plants  require  each  their  peculiar 
aliment,  which  is  not  to  be  found  in  all  descriptions  of  land;  this  it 
demonstrated  by  roots  of  trees  being  frequently  discovered  spreading 
beyond  their  ordinary  bounds  in  quest  of  salutary  food. 

Although  it  has  been  admitted  that  excessive  deep  planting  of  trees 
and  plants  is  injurious,  and  in  many  cases  fatal  to  their  very  existence, 
it  does  not  follow  that  all  annuals  and  biennials  are  injured  by  the  same 
means;  on  the  contrary,  the  earthing  up  of  particular  species  of  plants 
in  a  late  stage  of  growth  is  calculated  to  promote  early  maturity,  which 


408 

Constitutes  the  most  essential  art  in  gardening  for  the  market ;  because 
the  earliest  crops  are  always  the  most  profitable.  It  is  moreover  a  ne- 
cessary practice  in  climates  where  the  seasons  for  gardening  are  short- 
as  without  such  practice,  many  kinds  of  vegetables  could  not  possibly 
be  matured  in  due  season  for  gathering  before  Winter. 

I  would  here  take  the  opportunity  of  proving  this  last  position,  by 
reminding  the  reader  that  the  effects  of  deep  planting,  the  Peach  tree 
for  instance,  is  discoverable  soon  after  the  error  is  committed,  by  its 
fruit  ripening  prematurely,  and  this  is  often  the  case  for  a  year  or  two 
prior  to  its  final  decease,  and  should  operate  as  a  salutary  lesson  against 
planting  perennial  plants  and  trees  too  deep. 

In  conclusion  of  this  article,  which  is  intended  as  an  appendage  to  my 
works  on  gardening,  I  would  urge  gardeners  and  cultivators  to  consult 
the  operations  of  Nature  in  all  their  rural  pursuits  ;  and  with  a  view  to 
aid  them,  I  subjoin  the  following  rules,  which  are  further  illustrated 
under  the  different  heads  : 

1.  In  transplanting  fruit  trees,  let  the  collar,  or  that  part  from  which 
emanate  the  main  roots,  be  near  the  surface.     A  medium-sized  tree  may 
be  planted  an  inch  deeper  than  it  was  in  the  nursery  bed ;  and  the  largest 
should  not  exceed  two  or  three  inches,  see  pages  311,  319,  337  and  367 
of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,  eighth  edition. 

2.  In  the  cultivation  of  such  plants  as  are  transplanted,  or  grown  in 
hills  or  clusters,  as  Indian  Corn,  «&,c.  keep  the  earth  loose  but  level  around 
them  in  their  early  stages  of  growth,  by  frequent  hoeing,  ploughing,  or 
cultivating ;  and  to  promote  early  maturity,  throw  a  moderate  portion 
of  earth  about  the  roots  and  stems  at  the  last  or  final  dressing. 

3.  In  the  sowing  of  seeds,  remember  that  IN  UNITT  THERE  is  STRENGTH, 
and  that  from  the  germinative  parts  of  a  seed  being  weak  and  diminutive, 
it  cannot  be  expected  to  perforate  through  the  soil,  solitary  and   alone. 
To  insure  a  fair  chance  plant  your  seeds  moderately  thick,  and  thin  out 
the  surplus  plants  while  young.     In  planting  seeds  in  drills,  which  is  the 
most  eligible  plan,  the  size  of  the  seed  and  strength  of  its   germ  should 
be  considered ;  large  seeds,  producing  vigorous  roots,  require  deeper 
planting  than  diminutive  seeds,  producing,  delicate  roots  and  slender 
stalks. 

4  In  the  choice  of  compost  for  exotic  or  greenhouse  plants,  imitate 
the  native  soil  of  each  peculiar  species  as  nearly  as  possible,  by  a  judij 
cious  mixture  of  maiden  earth,  loam  sand,  leaf,  swamp  and  rock  mould, 
decomposed  manures  and  such  other  composts  as  are  recommended 
und?r  the  different  heads.  Remember,  that  although  strong  manure  i« 
-essential  to  the  growth  of  some  plants,  it  is  poisonous  to  others.  PURSUE, 
THEN,  A  MEDIUM  COURSE.  From  your  soil  not  being  too  stifTor  too  light, 
too  rich  or  too  poor,  too  cool  or  too  warm,  too  close  or  too  poieous,  if 
not  positively  salutary  and  congenial  to  all,  it  must  render  the  situation 
of  each  endurable.  I  again  repeat,  that  temperance  in  the  use  of 
aliment,  is  as  essential  to  the  welfare  of  the  vegetable  family,  as  it  is  to 
the  health,  happiness,  and  longevity  of  mankind. 

T.  BRIDGEMAN. 

New-York,  March  4,  18K). 

O"  Since  this  address  has  been  in  press,  I  have  seen  another  article 
in  the  Poughkcepsic  Eagle,  dated  February  29,  1840,  wherein  our 
modest  and  patriotic  discoverer  gratuitously  pronounces  his  knowledge 
as  superior  to  that  of  "  all  Botanical  and  Agricultural  known  Writers  .'" 
As  I  have  anticipated  the  merits  of  this  second  valuable  discovery 
in  my  books,  I  have  nothing  more  to  say  than  to  remind  the  reader,  that 
this  uncalled  for  attack  on  the  brethren  of  my  fraternity,  fully  justifies 
the  publication  of  these  my  voluntary  disclosures. 

D.  Mitchell,  Printer,  265  Bower/. 


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